Best Metal Cutting Blade? “Dry Cut” vs “Abrasive” vs “Diamond" Blade. Diablo, DeWalt, Makita
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- Опубліковано 16 кві 2022
- 10 Blades: Dry Cut vs Abrasive vs Diamond Chop Saw Blades, DeWalt, Makita, Oshlun, Evolution, Lenox Diamond, Diablo, Irwin, WEN, and SATC. Blades tested for performance and durability cutting through mild, medium, and very hard steel. I purchased all of the blades and the Evolution chop saw to ensure unbiased reviews. Thanks for supporting the channel!
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➡ As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
➡ Products Tested In This Video (in no particular order):
Irwin: amzn.to/37mSyvC
Diablo: amzn.to/3uOulr5
WEN: amzn.to/3M9Jfhd
DeWalt: amzn.to/3EoABJm
Makita: amzn.to/3OexYy5
Evolution: amzn.to/3uN5ILe
Oshlun: amzn.to/37tE39c
SATC: amzn.to/3xyxv40
Lenox (Diamond): amzn.to/3EjWPMp
DeWalt (Aluminum Oxide): amzn.to/3uMRkma
Evolution S380CPS Metal Cutting Chop Saw: amzn.to/37rLdun
Videography Equipment:
Sony DSC-RX10 III Cyber-shot Digital Still Camera: amzn.to/2YdXvPw
Canon 70D Camera: amzn.to/31b5Gy0
Azden Microphone: amzn.to/34d3DLE
Go Pro Bundle: amzn.to/3Ca0ZVN
This video is only for entertainment purposes. If you rely on the information portrayed in this video, you assume the responsibility for the results. Project Farm LLC - Навчання та стиль
Re-cutting the angle iron after each of the harder metals to show how much damage the blades had sustained, was pure genius. I also like that you show the particulit count during cutting. 👍
Thanks!
@@ProjectFarm I just made a similar comment in another thread and this is a great thing you do in your tests. You consider durability.
I'm an engineer in the process of getting my own shop set up. And value for money is VERY HIGH on my priority list. I haven't yet decided on a power saw for cutting down stock bars. I'm even considering making one, like a power hacksaw because it can be made from a windscreen wiper mechanism. But no matter what I do I'd need blades and blades cost money.
So for someone like me, who doesn't need speed but needs DURABILITY these tests are quite valuable.
For me the Diablo wins just slightly ahead of the Irwin, not because its speed (which is in the middle) but because it (like the Irwin) handled "abuse" better than the others. My bet is some of the other blades would be fantastic in both speed and durability if they were kept to the EXACT metal types they are designed for.
Great test.
If you are looking for suggestions.
1) Portable power BAND saws like the Milwaukee M18FBS, Makita DBP and Dewalt DCS.
Yeah I know they are pricey but maybe a couple of the suppliers might want to see a head to head.
And yeah making a test rig might be a bit of a hassle but I can help with concepts.
2) Sabre (reciprocating) saw blades.
Yeah I know you could do a dozen videos on the different blades available.
3) Small diameter circular saws (blades
Cutting wax would have been nice.
I agree. He often made subjective statements about damage in the past but showing the results in a fairly repeatable test takes it to the next level.
With random punctuation and creative misspellings, I know you’re a legit. ✊🏻
Awesome video, and hearing Todd say, "Made in Canada" totally made my day.
Working in a shop that does lots of fabrication, we use both dry cut and abrasive cutting wheels. Here are some observations we have made in their use.
•Abrasive wheels are best for really thin materials, steel studs for example. Also for any cuts that you may want to make 'free hand'.
•We've found that the dry cut blades cut best when they are only trying to take little 'bites' at a time. Lets take a piece of 2"x1/4" flat bar for example. The dry cut blade will cut quicker, cleaner, and cooler if the flat bar is vertical and taking little bites from the piece instead of it laying horizontal and trying to shave large amounts of material away. This is why when trying to cut the round pipe, some of the blades started cutting slow, then got quick through the middle, then slowed again at the bottom.
•Along with the above observation putting the metal that is being cut at the center line of the blade, even slightly forward (to the front of the machine) helps with cutting. It can also help with safety. When the blade is cutting on a upstroke, we have seen the blade grab the work-piece and try to pull it out of the clamp. We always now set the work-piece so the blade cuts at 90° or slightly downward to the work-piece.
•We have also found that cutting small pieces can cause blade damage. The small piece that is cut off can get caught up by the blade and thrown into the blade shield were it can bounce around and break the teeth of the blade. This is a common issue we have found.
Keep up the great work, and keep safe.
Thanks, will do! Thanks for sharing.
It's indeed good to see that some things are still being manufactured in North America. As for me, after viewing China trying to take over the whole South China Sea and Taiwan, it's ABC - Anything But Chinese.
A good solution to the small offcut problem is to make your cut 90% off the way through, retract the blade and then use pliers to break the remaining material. It does leave a burr to grind off but it's better than wrecking a $100 blade.
Thanks for the tips.
What brand of dry saw are you guys using? We have been using Steelmax which I can send back to Airgas and they re-teeth them.
You are the best, most thorough, no BS, objective independent testing channel ever. I appreciate your dedication and detail. Keep up the good work. You help us all work more efficiently and save us time, heartache, and money.
Thanks!
Uhh, no this metal cutting is not regulating the speed and feed so its just a joke. Slowing down the speed and applying more pressure is probably going to result in much better performance. If you can't see chips coming off your doing it wrong.
If only we had a cable news station as informative, factual and unbiased
@@timburke3096 ok tim 🤓
@@lostmywilltol1ve Yep! there is always one.
What I love the most about your videos is, you get straight to the point and dont try to fluff the length of the video, this is the quality content I appreciate.
Thank you!
At eighteen minutes, there is no need to fluff tbh
The #1 Fastest WINNER IS OLSHUN !
#2 Looser IS MAKITA !
But funny how he choose the 46% Slower makita... But I guess MONEY TALKS... How much did they pay him to say that??
You sir can be considered a hero, Atleast in my book. I can’t imagine how many hundreds of thousands of dollars you’ve saved your viewers. Thank you for everything you do!
Thanks and you are welcome!
lol they're entertaining, but take these with a grain of salt, there's soooo many variables unaccounted for
Atleast isn't a word.
@@akivaweil5066 but being a Typo Nazi is.
@@akivaweil5066 , "Atleast" should be in quotes, should it not?
Haven't had too use an abrasive wheel on the chopsaw in years. It's miserable to use them anymore as they go so slow and make such a mess. If you need to do 30 cuts for a project, you'll spend 5 minutes with carbide or 20-30 minutes with abrasive.
Thanks for sharing.
Used one of the new saws for the first time in the early 2000's, and all I could think was, "what have I been doing with my life until now?!" Haven't used an abrasive chop saw since.
You are using abrasive wrong, you can stack 10 or 20 stud in one cut with abrasive. Try that with carbide will destroy your blade. Carbide only comes out on top when you need clean cut.
@@andrewwoods2557 If I'm stacking for a cut, then it's my Hafco metalmaster sidecut bandsaw all day. Takes too long to set up individual cuts, but if I can stack the job, no brainer.
@@andrewwoods2557 Not true. If you force the cut it happens. NO DUST floating in the air.
Two things you may also consider. When I'm cutting metal i'm not concerned about how many seconds it takes to cut, and I always assume I'll have to deburr or dress the cut edges of the metal. What I'm concerned about most is if the cutting wheel will become damaged and how long a wheel will last over time.
Thanks for the feedback.
He kinda answered it with how many cuts of different metals the blades did and commenting on chipping
keep in mind people want to know these details when they work in high production shop environments too. for them cut speed could matter a lot.
@@GoalOrientedLifting 100%. Watch to the end; the last segment is genius; revisits the cut time after intentionally damaging the blades with high-carbon steel. One of the most thorough videos I've ever seen on UA-cam.
These blades dont last. After a few cuts they are useless. Nothing beats a cold saw for cutting metal, unfortunately they are very expensive. Next best option is abrasive cut off disc, but they create a lot of dust.
Just rewatched…still such an impressive video. Your work is superior to some “professional” evaluation videos! SO we’ll done. Thanks for ALL the time, energy and great videography!
I've used these quite often, and most blades like more pressure than what you've given.
The upper range blades are very impressive though even under lighter load!
Thanks for the testing; you're the tradesman's hero. ❤️
Great feedback and thank you!
You need to find the sweet spot
I have an Evolution saw and you can't put much pressure on it or it drastically slows down.
Milwaukee makes a great chop saw
usually these are on a $30 chop saw with the handled re-welded to 5' long so the little chinese guy can dangle his bodyweight off it while the saw is cutting
I think the abrasive wheels have their own saws that run at higher RPMs, so it makes sense they performed poorly.
ye, higher speeds. The lower speed you go, the more they self destruct while cutting. If you go to their absolute max, you get highest life out of them, fastest cuts, but also most chance of dying to them exploding!
True. Abrasive cutting wheels are supposed to run at max. 80m/s, for a 14" blade that means 4300rpm - which is exactly what Dewalt specifies.
This saw does 1450rpm.
Thanks for the feedback.
D Hristov that’s so true. I read about a foreman of a crew so he had experience, went to cut something steel off a truck. He had a 7” hand held grinder and his safety glasses but no full face shield. The blade blew up while cutting and a piece got him in the neck deep enough to cut into the carotid artery. This was in the section of a safety magazine made by the gov’t for tradesmen, called *Fatalities*. He didn’t suffer very long, it was that fast. Said he was a father with 2 young kids. The conclusion was always wear a full face shield that is long enough to cover your throat plus safety glasses as well. I watched the faces of the guys in the coffee room as they read it. He died in our city and as tradesmen we all stuck to that advice in the conclusion.
@@14goldmedals Had a close call, prevented by a face shield (impact-rated welding helmet, actually). I was kind of a newbie, cutting mild steel, and I accidentally exploded a grinding wheel. Probably half the wheel hit my face shield and bounced off... if that'd hit my face I probably wouldn't have a nose anymore...
Another time, again when I was still a newbie, I exploded another grinding wheel and had a piece bounce down inside my face shield and bounce off my safety glasses.
I was VERY glad I was wearing proper PPE. Always, always, always wear your safety gear - takes very little effort to do, and it just might save your life (or your face).
Thank you for this very informative video. I was considering a chop saw for my hobby workshop, your findings has given me food for thought. Thanks to the commenters for point out the speed difference for abrasive wheels.
Thanks and you are welcome!
Thanks for making this. I’m familiar with the Evolution brand and pleased you didn’t hit on them too hard. As others have said I also liked the fast aging of the blades to use harder steel. I mostly just cut mild steel. Abrasives have their place too!
“Let’s go ahead a skip the SATC since it doesn’t appear to be designed for cutting metal.” The most subtle and solid roast I’ve heard in a while.
Great vid
Thanks!
I recently bought an Evolution saw like yours and it transformed my hobbying life overnight. Therefore, I was especially interested in how the Evolution blade held up against the others. Thank you very much for providing useful, real-world data that I can use when my current blade loses it's efficiency. As others have commented below, the revisiting of the angle-iron cut for time comparisons was a brilliant idea!
Nice! You are welcome!
@@ProjectFarm I was wondering if you, like myself, tended to get hair-thin shards of metal puncturing your fingertips when working with metal only to be dug out with tweezers and needles at the end of the day? I struggle to find gloves that are impervious yet still flexible enough to give good hand-to-work feedback. Would such a quest be a suitable topic for one of your videos? Thanks
@@drd9784 I use the rubber coated waterproof type gloves for that same reason and they have been great but make my hands very hot and need to take them off quite a bit for relief, but then again it's been over 100 degrees in Texas for the last month. I had the palm only type but got shards on the top of my hand when using a lathe, so I got the full dipped version.
@@AbnormalAxis Thanks Jake I'll give them a go 👍
@@AbnormalAxis you are a maniac using gloves with a lathe.
These thoughtful and comprehensive tests make your channel such a great resource, transparency and fairness means I can trust you. Thanks again, great job!
Thanks and you are welcome!
Just love your reviews they’re so sensible and honest and well thought about the testing procedures good job
Thanks so much!
I like the new additions to the video: showing where on the graph your recommended blades stand, as well as suggesting other tools to use instead of the blades. I also like the data on the sound and particles. You can never have too much data!
Thank you for the feedback!
You should have given the Oshlun more love! For a "mid" to higher price range, it was one of the most impressive blades to me. LOVE the new grouping format to show why you made your choices though!
Great point!
I thought the Oshlun was also going to be the top blade.
I agree, i was just going to post the same thing. Itwas always placed in the top few, was lower priced and cut well 👍
@@ProjectFarm Agreed with the others on this one. Oshlun performed well in many of the tests and ended up being the fastest after all the abuse. It withstood more damage compared to the more expensive blades and also had a clean cut every time.
That's the one I would spend my money on.
Such great testing results, very accurate, very fair testing procedures. The best channel on UA-cam for the every day working man. I’m sure this channel has saved people countless amounts of money. Wish I’d had this back in my day.
Thanks and you are welcome!
Thanks for all the time and effort you put into these comparison videos. You’re doing your fellow man a great service and holding these companies to account for the products they produce. 👍
You are welcome!
You did it again ! Just when I was about to pull the trigger on a cut off blade you do the test and make my decision easy. "Keep up the good work."
Thank you!
@@ProjectFarmwould like to know, what kind of motor oil do u think is good to use.. what kind do u prefer? Do u think is it worth to spend the money on amsoil?
@@dannyzamudio1252 bruh he has done tons of videos on which engine oil performs best. You need to visit his videos page
@@PrestonSteele thanks man
@@dannyzamudio1252 tldr any full synthetic will be best.
Unless you're racing hard, even cheapo Supertech oil works for lubricating your engine properly. The thing that sets more expensive oils apart is the wear additives in the oil. You'll only see performance degradation on oil with high mileage, and even then the oil is still doing its job properly, it's the contaminants in the oil that causes the wear.
My suggestion is to spend extra on a really good oil filter, throw whatever full synthetic your motor wants in it, and keep oil changes at 7500-10K miles if your motor stays relatively clean.
Thank you for another awesome video! Who else would ever think of measuring the particulates in the air!? That's why you're the best Todd! Keep up the great work!
Agreed, this was a great test.
Thanks and you are welcome!
As a measurable statistic, I agree! That said, it's one of the selling points of these over an abrasive blade, that the only debris from a TCT metal saw is metal flakes, versus the fiberglass, abrasive, and smoke particle cloud from an abrasive chop saw.
Awesome video thank you ! My small metal shop has an older EVO 380 saw, and always has had the 16 inch Evolution blades. For longevity those seem to hold up very well . Only cutting mild steel rounds, square , angle and solids. I break a blade in with a short cut into some brass stock.
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
I had suggested this video probably a year ago and never checked to see if you had done it. I am pleasantly surprised at the outcome. Thanks for doing the work!
You are welcome!
I love your testing videos, it really shows that you put a lot of serious consideration of how to fairly and tortuously test everything you do. Great work. A true perfectionist at quality control testing products!
Thanks and you are welcome!
I've tried several brands for cutting mild steel in my shop. I decided to stick with the Diablo brand. The price is reasonable and last for about 3 months with much daily use. I buy many things using your recommendations. Looking forward to the engine hone video. Great work.. thank you
Thanks and you are welcome!
I can’t say the same. I’ve given up on Diablo- they just don’t seem to last. I’ve switched to Mikita- it seems to me to be the best overall value and bang for your buck. But as was demonstrated here, for the tougher steel, or rebar, I still drag out the old abrasive saw. Scott
@@scottsmith7080 I actually gave my ole abrasive saw to one of my employees. I didn't like the amount of heat and sparks it produced. It also cut crooked. After experimenting with multiple brands, I found that the Diablo brand price point worked best in my shop. I'm not cheap, just think they worked best for me...
Italians Do It Better ahahah
I'm curious, do you sharpen the blade in those 3 months and then toss it, or does it last 3 months before you sharpen it?
Been running a Diablo blade in my Milwaukee dry cut saw for years now. I don't do that much fabrication but just about everything I do is on 1/4" thick or more mild steel. So far there's no visible damage to any teeth and it still cuts fast and cold, after dozens of cuts. I have a Dewalt blade as a backup but so far it just sits in the package collecting dust. Blade longevity seems to be all about good fixturing and smooth firm pressure on the saw. Any bouncing will coat teeth, but once you understand that the blades seem to last a very long time.
Thanks for sharing.
Your testing is impeccable,sir! Extremely thorough and smart!
Thanks so much!
These comparisons are vital when someone needs good equipment and there is a bewildering variety from which to choose. Well done dude...
Thanks!
I'm the only one who doesn't use or need these tools but still watches the videos?
Happy Easter everyone
I live in a small condo but still watch.
Thanks for watching and Happy Easter!
🐇 Thanks, Happy Easter! 😎✌🏼
I like the close-up shots of the blade teeth, and I also like that you increase the demands on the blades, and then go back and cut regular steel again for a comparison.
I went with the Irwin blade myself, I absolutely love it. I have been using it for several months, still cuts mild steel like butter.
Thanks for sharing.
Extremely informative and excellent methodology, as usual. Outstanding video, Todd thank you and Happy Easter to the Project Farm family!
Thanks and you are welcome! Happy Easter!
This comparison review was pure gold and I really appreciated it as I'm in the market for this cutting capability right now. Thank you!
Thanks and you are welcome!
I would recommend a hot saw and cold saw. I bought both used. Unless you actually need the precision the cold saw provides use the hot saw. Also, use some type of lube on the cold saw even though it does not require lube it helps.
@@robert5 thanks - that's good advice. I can see the cutting bench looking like a little family of drop saws now ;) I have a Makita 355mm abrasive cut off saw - yeh, cuts ok, but can deflect a surprising amount. Shame Makita only seem to offer a 305mm cold cut off saw here in Oz.
This channel has quickly become a must watch for DIY'ers everywhere! I watch a ton of UA-cam videos and this channel ranks as a top 3 of all time! Keep up the great work in making all our lives easier!!!
Thanks, will do!
Your methodical approach and ingenious tests are always informative and fun. It lets me buy sensibly, too. Thanks.
Thanks and you are welcome!
The Wen blade was looking pretty good until the end of the series of tests. I would say that Wen blade would work well enough if you are only making several cuts through standard construction / hobby materials.
I thought the same about the Wen blade as well. But then again, for the price I’d still say it seems to be alright, as long as you aren’t cutting armor plating with it
Wen for DIY projects and Diablo for job sites
Thanks for he feedback.
@@ProjectFarm And thank YOU for taking the time, effort, and expense of making these videos.
Recently started shopping for windshield repair kits (for cracks and chips) and thought that'd be a great video idea for you. Not only do you give great comparisons but I get some pretty good tips that product instructions and tutorial videos often miss. Thanks for all of your work!
You are welcome! Thanks for the video idea.
I second this suggestion. Please, please make a video. Tired of windshield costly replacements.
The only steel cutting carbide blade I have ever used is the diablo steel demon in a 7 1/4 inch version. I ripped 6 feet of mild steel square tubing in half with it. I was very impressed.
Thanks for sharing.
Steel demon usually all we need in the body shop
@@txtacos817-3That's awesome. Thanks for sharing. I trust anything you say in that kind of environment.
can you give me the link to the blade you use for cutting metal please ?
One thing that I love (and was so surprised by) about my Evolution blade is how cool the metal is after cutting. I had never cut any metal with anything but an abrasive blade so I was used to spring water on cuts to be able to handle them easier. With dry blades, they don't heat the metal up hardly at all. Most of the time you can handle it directly afterwards with bare hands. That blew my mind. That and the huge (in comparison to abrasive blades) chunks of metal bouncing all over. Safety glasses are a must!
Thanks for sharing.
I've tossed a lot of parts out in the snow and mud puddles.
I've also damaged rubber soled boots stepping on hot cut off pieces. The cool is attractive to me.
Yep I have this saw and I was blown away the first time I cut some 1/4 angle with 2"legs. It was room temp! I'm replacing my evo blade with the Diablo just to try it out. I also keep an abrasive wheel for junk cuts, small stock that tends to grab the carbide tooth blades, and HSS or other hardened materials. Abrasive is cheaper and better for some situations.
Jeeez
I watched you make clean cuts through steel like it's butter, then I thought about people struggling to make the same cut using a hacksaw. LOL. Thank God for power tools! Abrasive wheels work, but as you showed, they make a big mess. Thanks for the great testing video! A++
Great point on the huge benefit of power tools! Thanks for checking out the video!!
hacksaws, handsaws, and yankee drivers. the very first cordless tools without batteries .
Man, ain't so!
I’ve done a decent amount of metal siding and roofing for commercial work. Often times I find using the diablo or another metal cutting blade on a skilsaw gives me a quick clean cut for multiple pieces at once.
Abrasive wheels are designed for much higher RPMs to work properly
One thing we found is that we use 12" Diablo steel demon blades instead of 14"....about $30 less per blade, and the sfm actually goes down with the smaller blade, so possibly runs cooler than a 14"
Thanks for sharing.
Impossible
@@robertfandel9442 please explain...
12" saws are just better anyway, you don't need the capacity of the 14" blade. Sure you can cut 4" square tubing with them but it's not really what they're for. A 12" blade will have less deflection meaning more accurate cuts, and like you said the SFM guess down with the smaller diameter so they last longer.
@@lunchboxproductions1183 'you don't need the capacity of the 14" blade'
"We only really need 100 miles EV range".
It really depends what you're using that blade for doesn't it?
Love your thorough and unbiased tests and opinions. Great stuff.
Thanks!
This is an excellent presentation. You have really become the "go to guy" for tool comparison. Thanks from AU
Thanks!
I'm always super excited when I see a new video is released, the amount of careful tedious repetitions he composes into short entertaining videos is amazing, we get to see very little of the effort he puts into these let alone the editing.
Thanks!
You are saving me time and money, and educating me at the same time. Thanks from Canada.
Greetings and thank you!
Man, this is a GREAT comparison video, brother. Excellent. I have learned to hate the abrasive blades for chop saws as most of them tend to bend and not cut straight when compared to the metal blades. I personally use the Diablo and also use the Diablo cutoff blades in my reciprocating saw.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I just purchased a 14" dry cut chop saw, as I needed it for cutting some steel SGB rails. While picking up the saw, I went ahead and purchased the Diablo Steel demon. Awesome video. And it looks like I made a great choice. I use the Diablo 96t 12" aluminum cutting blade on my Rigid chop saw for cutting 6061 Aluminum Extrusion, and I've had great results with that blade, which is why I opted for the Diablo Steel Demon blade for the dry cut saw. Thanks for the very informative video!
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
As usual, great job testing these blades! My only criticism is that you used an abrasive chop saw wheel in a saw made for metal blades. The metal blade saw is only good for around 1400rpm, while a lot of abrasive wheel saws are meant for around 4000rpm.
Still, the metal blades are clearly superior
Same goes for the lenox diamond blade. it's meant to replace the normal abrasive wheels 1 for one in their application. So that should also spin around that 3-4000 RPM
@@boomerangfreak have you tried diamond in higher rpm regular chop saw?
@@jamesrussell6870I have used a carbide blade to cut steel in a high speed saw It destroys the teeth if you run them too fast. dont do it.
@@jamesrussell6870 I have the Lenox blade on my Porter Cable chop saw. It cuts better than an abrsave blade but still leaves a pretty good sized burr.
@@boomerangfreak meant to replace them, but they're loud, slow and utterly useless in smaller wheel sizes.
I'd rather stick with Pferd abrasives than touch a Lenox wheel again. Cleaner dfadter cuts, only takes a few seconds to do the odd disc swap
Thank you for the awesome video as always! Some video ideas are, pancake air compressors, wire cutters and crimpers more specifically, voltage meters, heat guns! Just things I’ve needed for a project recently and had no solid reviews anywhere!
You are welcome! Thanks or the video ideas!
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, ideas and videos. Always interesting and entertaining. You seemed to cover just about every scenario.
You are welcome!
As usual, the best video for comparing products, saving you time, money and heartache. You are the greatest. Keep up your excellent work.
Thanks, will do!
Been watching your videos for over 4 years now. Absolutely love them. I was surprised you didn't use the thermal camera for checking the temperatures of the metal, but maybe there was a reason for it. Still great video. Would still love to see arc welders in a showdown.
Thanks! Thanks for the video idea.
Love your videos as always.
That Irwin did a good job, I mostly used the abrasive ones when I worked in a shop. I think because of how well they work cutting everything.
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
You provide a wealth of information in every video. Thanks!!
Been watching for a couple of years now, keep up the good work
Thanks, will do!
GREAT TESTING as always Todd!! I have a few of the blades you tested, and my anecdotal experience seems pretty similar to what you measured here. One thing I'm curious about but have never tested is the difference from using an abrasive wheel in the slow turning saw as in this test, versus using the abrasive wheel in the faster turning chop saw they would normally be used in.
Thanks! Thanks for the video idea.
Abrasive wheels are definitely designed to run at higher RPM. They're only benefit is their low cost and the fact that you can use them on a common chop saw without buying a dedicated dry cut saw. If you have a dry-cut saw, there's zero reason to use them. Slower, messier, less accurate, more heat = gross.
I have multiple 14 inch chop-saws I have a rigid 14 inch low rpm similar to the evolution but all the different cutting blades I tried would only last 2 to 3 times longer than an abrasive cutting wheel. my normal 14" chop-saw is way cheaper to operate I can get blades for 2 to 3 dollars and if you know how to use abrasive wheels you can achieve very fast cutting sometimes you have to hit them to rough them up a bit if you have a habit of cutting too slow they get a layer on them which causes them not to cut well
The main problem with abrasive wheels is when you try to cut like 45° angles and square tubing usually they become a compound angle and don't work right
@@CreativityUnleashed thanks for sharing sir.
Generally when you slow down an abrasive wheel it acts 'softer' i.e. like a wheel with a weaker binder. There will be less heat buildup but the wheel will wear away more quickly.
"High Densrty" made in China. No kidding lol.
lol. Thanks!
😂
Haha lol
Velly High Quarity!
That reminds me of a new type of screwdriver I saw at a local store. They are made in Asia, in a country that is communist, so the name really fits. They meant to say that they were magnetic, but the new type that they introduced is "machetic." If ya can't get the screws out in the conventional manner, simply chop the head off of the screw with this type, and start over. 🙄
Love your videos. My tool brand biases run strong, but I still reference your videos prior to new purchases. I used to work in window installation and something EVERYONE on the crew had at all times was a folding utility knife. Personally, I've gone through at least a dozen of them as a lot of their blade locking mechanisms fail once you start hammering on them (I know, few tools are built to withstand a framing hammer!), but we've settled on Lenox brand, wondering if this would be something you're interested in testing. Not really a functionality test, more a durability test, but it'd be interesting for me to see which brand is empirically better. Thanks for all your videos!
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.
thank you for making the video. It's a great comparison and thoughtful process & setup.
Thanks and you are welcome!
The Abrasive wheels, [DeWalt and Lennox] are really designed to be more efficient at over 5,000 rpm's , so comparing them to the slower speed running toothed blades is a little deceptive. overall a good comparison.
I agree with you
At low speeds - even wood saws cut through steel
I prefer Abrasive wheel
I made the mistake of running an abrasive wheel on a low rpm cut off saw and it wears the abrasive prematurely. It also damages the blade by wearing it unevenly and throwing off the balance making it unsafe.
@@ammo021 thanks for sharing that information....even a wood cutting saw at 3500 plus rpm does not preform well with abrasive wheels...we had a 5hp 16" abrasive saw that could cut a 1" round solid bar in 1.5 seconds, not held in a vice either.....I cut a lot of material on that old gal......when it comes to 3/16 and 1/4 stainless , I use an abrasive saw and not a carbide slow speed chop saw, the blade life is to little when cutting stainless, even with the stainless blade, I have an Evolution 15 inch, and also a Dake 14 inch coolant saw that runs 80 rpm with high speed steel blades, but for fast cutting, and safe cutting, the abrasive is the tool to go to for me.....thin wall square tubing 14 and 11 gauge gets cut by band saw. with out coolant, as the Ellis uses rubber tires and can't use coolant, only air.....
One of your best videos yet! I really appreciated the inclusion of air quality / particle count data and delta-T on the 4140. Would have liked to have seen results on stainless, as many blades marketed for stainless cutting are very expensive and I wonder if they're actually superior (Champion and Evolution-brand blades come to mind).
Awesome, thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
@jt354 in my experience non of these "dry cut" blades handles stainless very well. Regardless if they are marketed as such. Blade is dull in no time
Another high class review; with all the details, thank you!
Thanks and you are welcome!
Dude. Your so thorough in everting you do. It's awesome. Thanks
Thanks!
Easter Sunday is starting out great. Thanks!
Thank you very much!
Thanks for doing these tests and reviews, they definitely save a lot of people a whole lot of money and time! Gob bless you and happy Easter!
Thank you and Happy Easter!
amazing testing - i would not have guessed the winner for the carbide blades -- thanks for sharing!
You are welcome!
This was the best show and tell for me! Years of abrasive wheels.. Thanks!
This is the first time I've ever seen dry cut blades used. I was brought up old school and used a wet cut band saw. I was impressed with these results.
Thank you!
I really like the small partial count. Every time I use my angle grinder I always end up with black boogers even when only cutting for a few minutes or less.
Isn’t that the truth brother! Huck a loogie onto the snow on the ground and it’s black. The new guy looks on in terror lol
Thanks for the feedback.
After 40 years everytime I cough up comes black.
I am sure lung disease will be my exit.
Use a p100 respirator for any grinding or welding
I like your tool testing, doing your best to keep the variables to a minimum so the results seem to be pretty reliable. It really helps me make decisions in my tool purchasing.
Cheers, mate.
Thanks!
Nice thorough test! Really enjoyed the retests on the angle iron after abusing the blades.
Each type has it's uses. You wouldn't exactly use a premium blade to cut up thousands of rebar on a jobsite :)
Thanks!
The best for metal is the regular grind blade, just buy a bunch and wear them down until you can’t use, blades for steel is plain stupid it’s only good for aluminium
@@Radbot776 That's certainly an opinion.
If you have thousands of cuts and live in a country with high labor rates, it doesn't hold up.
If you're cutting material which is metallurgically sensitive to heat, they're a terrible decision.
@@pinpetos if you had heat sensitive materials, they'd be cut under coolant under a band setup optimized for cutting time over heat. So your argument is fucking irrelevant.
@@pinpetos also wtf do "high labor rates" have to do with using abrasive cutting wheels vs blades? The cutoff wheels cut far faster, take 30s to replace - less time than you're losing on every single cut you make with these shitty toothed blades.
We used the Diablo blades in our pipe saw for skid 10 4-8" pipe cut quick and smooth. Skid 40 definitely took longer but we never seemed to have thermal issues. Love your detailed breakdowns.
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
Sched****
This is probably the best and most informative video I have ever seen on UA-cam,😀🤗
Wow, thanks!
this was so thought out! awesome video!
Thanks!
Another bunch bites the dust! THANKS, Commander! I only recently even got a metal cutter for my 3 inch DeWalt so this leaves me in the dust sure enough. I've always just used a grinding wheel to score the piece and then frailed it to the breaking point with the hammer of the day. The cut off discs really surprised me on their true cutting and with the ease they do it and there are discs made for cutting all sorts of stuff. I've got an old Makita compound miter saw that was worn out when I got it and it's a wood eater only. I can get by with the DeWalt but I know where torches are if I have to go heavy duty. Thanks for a wonderful test, be BLEDSSED and Jesus is up and active! GBWYall!
Hi Lewie, Thank you very much! It's sort of painful to practically destroy so many fine blades all at one but it's important testing that'll hopefully help people select the product that's best for their needs. Great point on reaching for the torch when needed! Always great to hear from you, Happy Easter, and wishing Yall many BLESSINGS!!!
Thank you for getting around to do this test. Unfortunately I went ahead and bought the diamond blade. It is definitely slower at cutting mild steel but I'm not going through abrasive wheels like I use to. The diamond is a lot more durable than the abrasive. Another nice thing about the diamond blades is that it doesn't shrink like the abrasive wheels do.
I didn't even think about the carbide blades for cutting metal. Oh well. Maybe in about 10 years I will get one those. Lol I don't know how long the diamond blade will last. I don't have metal type projects everyday. So it will probably last me 10 years. Time will tell.
I've enjoyed all your videos thus far.
Thank you for sharing!
What an entertaining video felt like I was watching a race with excellent commentary. Great video
Thanks!
Love being able to come to this channel when im planning on buying something and seeing a review of exactly what im looking for
Thanks!
Great content! Would love to see a 12" miter saw blade comparison. This was awesome!
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
I like Diablo blades. They always seemed to be up to the task, while still being (what I consider) a decent price. Thanks for the great test.
Great point!
the Amazon link shows the Irwin at twice the price
I’ve used them on circular saws and they seem to hold up pretty good. Almost everything else in its price range is made in China. I’d rather support the Italians.
They usually are just a good bet for anything cutting related if you just need to buy a blade without research. Often not the very best, but rarely have I seen any diablo products I have been disappointed in.
I always love the Diablo blades .. I use them to cut up all types of metal . Reciprocating saw and side grinder
Well, I have to say that I was very surprised by a couple of the blades. Thanks again for a very thorough and informative comparison!
Thanks and you are welcome!
Within the past few years I've started doing some DIY metal fabrication, using mostly aluminum with the rare instance of steel. The Diablo blades have been incredible in aluminum. I worked them hard, maybe a little too hard. I had a few teeth come out and the blade was replaced under the lifetime warranty. I've since learned that Diablo has three different non-ferrous blades for light, medium and thick aluminum. I now own all three and use them appropriately.
Anyhow, thanks for the test! As always, it's a great resource and (this time) confirms my choice of Diablo.
Thanks and you are welcome!
You can cut aluminum with wood cutting blades if you need to
For aluminum fab, we use a woodworking compound miter saw with a common 80 tooth carbide woodcutting blade. No problems. In fact, when the cabinetry guys toss a carbide 60 or 80 because it’s a bit burnt for oak, it still works fine for metal shapes.
@@blackhawk7r221 Yes, I am aware that a good carbide tipped blade for wood also works. I use carbide tipped wood router bits on aluminum. But not my favorite, expensive bits.
@@jimegan7077 You are the man! I’ve never thought to chuck up a carbide bit on the shaper.
I gotta go try it
Anyone else watch this to sleep 😂
You caught me haggaah
Hopefully not while using any of these tools …
@@dougjb7848there was druggie working in the weld shop with me and he’d be nodding off while using a grinder😂😂idk how he didn’t hurt himself. He lasted about three weeks before getting fired
Almost every day
Not intentionally, but since I’m forced to replay the videos it does increase his play count. Maybe it’s intentional?
Thank you for all your videos they have saved me a lot of money buying the right tools for the job that give me best bang for my buck. I really appreciate it.
You are welcome!
The most outstanding video on chopsaw’s and their blades that I’ve ever seen thank you , you help me make intelligent decisions on buying my next
Thanks! Glad to hear!
It never ceases to amaze me how distinct the diminishing returns are beyond a given proce point. Sure the makita is faster than the diablo...but it enough faster to be worth double the price?
And the Irwin blade really suprised me.
Fun fact the A.R. in a.r. plate stands for abrasion resistant. It is used in armor application by the military and others but also in buckets for constuction trucks and other stuff.
Fantastic testing and detailed comparison. Thank you.
Thanks and you are welcome!
Very informative, Todd.
I love Diablo's diamond rim blades for my 5.5" angle grinder.
They work great for cutting chain and other materials too hard for bolt cutters or toothed cutters.
I wish they'd expand the line to the 9" and 14" size classes so that I could use them on my other tools.
In terms of the video, the only thing I can suggest is that, it would have been helpful if you created another percentage chart for the blades on the angle iron after cutting the AR400 plate compared to their starting times.
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
My experience long-term is the Evo blade that came with my Evo saw is a good blade, it doesn't last as long as the Diablo though. Still have an abrasive for hardened steel is a good idea.
I use the Diablo myself, and have had great success with it. A local heat treating company also does cryogenic treating as well. When I have my blades treated cryogenically, I get a much longer life out of them. More than twice the life
Thanks for sharing.
I think this would make a great episode; take top performers from other episodes (drill bits, saw blades, pocket knives) get them cryo treated and do the tests again and see if there's any benefit. Cryo is intriguing but the claims seem too good to be true; it would be nice to see what kind of a difference it makes.
@@wormfood868 yes. Good idea. It’s not that expensive a process, but I’m not set up for good verifiable testing
You can get good, appreciable results with solvent and dry ice at home.
A guy did a test on drills
@@wormfood868 I don’t have the test results in my hands, but a local box company gets all their slitting blades treated, and their claim is three times more life on average. Take that for what it is. A large well know manufacturer uses this process. That was good enough for me to try it, and my results are similar.
Once again, I figured 18 minutes was too long to keep my interest and now the video is over and I'm sad. :-) I kept watching to see what twist was next. You never disappoint. The angle iron after abuse was very good thinking. Particulate and noise was an added bonus. Great for those working indoors to consider. One of the best YT channels. Best regards.
Thanks!
Awesome videos, definitely subscribed. Can’t wait for the chop saw review (associated to this video I guess, or should I go for the evolution?). Thank you!
Thanks! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
This makes me feel good that the Diablo steel blade I just bought for my circular saw to cut some unistrut finished in your top 3.
Thanks for sharing.
One thing I did notice as an error in this video, the saw you’re using is a dry cut chop saw, runs 14-1500 rpm, which is great for the carbide blades. However the Lenox diamond blade you used is meant for an abrasive chop saw which runs 4-5000 rpm’s. Not really a fair comparison on the saw you’re using.
To be fair a chop saw that is designed for that high an rpm is pretty expensive
Bro shut up.
You sound like a nitpicking nanny.
@@TheDudeInTheWild007 but it is a fair point none the less even if he is being nitpicky
Still should have used a faster saw for the abrasive blades to be fair that's where they are designed to work at and the dry carbide are supposed to be used on a 3600 rpm saw by their speed rating. But I like the evolution blade overall and thinking of buying the Evo saw to get away from my old abrasive saw lots of dust with it.
@@TheDudeInTheWild007 it’s not nit picky at all. You’re not going to test a m18 sawzall vs a m12 hackzall and talk about performance deficits, same principle but completely different uses for the tools.
This one video inspired me to subscribe. Some many of the values I've looked for in a shop product review channel / blog. Thank you. I have used Irwin projects a lot and was betting on their blade to come out on top. I'm glad your data backed up my hunch. I'm a hobbyist, so that price to functionality ratio feels good for me. I liked the wen too, but after that second durability test it's functionality fell of quickly.
Thanks for watching and subscribing! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for very good introducing to available products, and very fantastik test, and very good ending with which one is good for what kind of job.
Thanks!
I feel like the abrasive wheel is still a great option in many cases. It passed all the tests and only cost $8. Given how much wear each blade received, the price should be a huge factor since these things are supposed to be disposable. The expensive blades are probably more for specialty uses.
They're dirty, though... Don't want that crap in the air. Good to keep a couple around for tough cuts, though.
Chop saw with abrasive wheel is definitely my go to setup, it just works and the price is right.
Thanks for the feedback.
I think it depends on what youre using it for. I work in the Coal Seam Gas Industry and we are often replacing waterlines on wellsites that are made from 2" Schedule 160 pipe (around 10mm wall). We might do 15 cuts in a day. An abrasive might take 1-2 blades to do this and gets significantly slower as it gets smaller. You also heat the pipe alot and mess with the temper of it, causing it to thread poorly. And being on a Remote location creates a significant fire hazard. The carbide saw cuts in about 10 seconds per cut, Is dead square and required basically no deburring. The chips are relatively cool and We can do upwards of 3-500 cuts per blade. At 12x the price of an abrasive can very much be worth it. Not to mention being less fragile and the saved time changing blades. For a home user. Abrasive may be the way. For a poweruser - Carbide all the way.
@@thaneirwin4688 Agreed abrasives are only good for hard steel that would otherwise damage a carbide or cermet blade. For example if you had to cut a drill bit or grade 8 bolt. Otherwise a toothed bit rules in accuracy, life and speed.
I guess it really depends on the overall application, but I would figure the IRWIN & OSHLUN came out on top. Especially if you consider cost as an important factor. Ultimately more usage/base-material testing will give a clearer result (unless your need is for immediate performance with little overall use).
Despite some of my technical issues with your videos (which are very few), I must say--
Excellent work, as always, Sir!
Thanks so much!
The AR-400 was good enough to test endurance roughly. He isnt going to cut 300 times with a blade.
The #1 Fastest WINNER IS OLSHUN !
#2 Looser IS MAKITA !
The MAKITA is 46% Slower!