@11:15 The Schlage catalog seems to indicate that the P in the suffix indicates a 6 pin cylinder while the D indicates a deadbolt instead of a springbolt, however I haven't been able to verify how 5 pin was designated before switching to 6. Between A51, A52 and A53, the difference is that the A51 has just a turning button: turn it horizontal to lock the outside knob, or vertical to unlock, and you have to manually turn the button to unlock - it doesn't unlock by knob. The A52 unlocks when you turn the knob. With the A53, you can push the button in without turning it horizontal and it will lock the outside knob and it will pop out (unlock) when you turn the inside knob like the A52. If you put the button horizontal then it stays locked when you use the inside knob, the same as the A51. The change to the F51 actually corresponds with a different designation: the newer version is F51A. As with the A51, the F51 doesn't unlock when the inside knob is used and was discontinued. The F51A unlocks when you use the inside knob. I've always been a little puzzled why it isn't called the the F52 instead, which would be consistent with the A series naming. But then, given the A52 has been discontinued for over four decades, I guess consistency isn't a high priority.
Great to hear the right history of the F series.😁 Next should be the quick homeowner rekey system.🤔😏 Some call it Schlage's answer to Kwikset Smartkey.🤓 I honestly can't remember the proper name for this system🤯. But I would like to hear the right history of them too.😜
Compressible Cylinders can be really tough to pick. Another issue is when you do pick them open, a lot of times you need to relock the cylinder if there are some long pins because the compressible cap won’t compress enough to remove the cylinder with the plug turned. The chamfer in the plugs you talked about also contribute to the anti pick characteristic of the cylinder. Along with the small tee pin drivers being under higher than normal tension. The drivers don’t set as easily as they do with a sharp cut plug. Let’s see a video on picking them.
Another interesting video about American hardware. Sad to see everything rounded to make it work, when we get to work with ultra perfect details here. But people do have problems getting hardware store key to work well. Again not a problem with the real locks as they all come with restricted key profiles sorting that problem the pro way.
Is there a way to remove the knob from the backplate on the inside handle? This would be on the new version. I don't see how to do it and I need to use my old backplate with the new knob because there is a huge oval hole in my front door that none of the new knob will cover. I am sure it is simple. I just can't figure it out. My knob looks similar to the one to the far left in your video but it doesn't have a lock (just the knob due to deadbolt which is separate). Thanks for any help you can provide.
You likely have the old EB style handleset ua-cam.com/video/o-ewgGIQCo0/v-deo.html and no nothing made beside the Baldwin Brand 2 Point Handleset will cover it. You cannot remove F series interior knobs nor make them work with your ole hardware. Your only other option is to cut out a piece of wood and fit it into the hole with bondo (or similar) then sand/repaint/restain the door
@@selock Thank you for the quick reply. Yes, that is what I have and the hole is huge. I will look up the Baldwin to see if that is an option for me. Then I will decide on the repair vs. a new front door LOL. Again, thanks so much.
@@kimberlylee5541 make sure it is the one with the large oval interior and not the Kwikset version. Last I looked the handleset was pretty expensive $500 ish plus :( (and they aren’t great handlesets IMO)
@@selock Yes, I just checked the price. I think I am going to paint the old one that I have. I also bought a key pad for the deadbolt and that part I can use (but I will have to paint that too, LOL). Luckily I bought the handle and key pad separate so I can return the handle. My door is in good shape so I can't even justify replacing it. This was suppose to be one of the simpler projects on my to do list LOL.
@@selock It's not that bad. I always take a few cylinders like the janitor's closet cylinders, which aren't used except after hours cleaning in most office buildings and go door too do rotating out 5 or so cylinders at a time. And most office buildings around here have a vaccant office so I just comandeer the nicest one I'm willing to carry my stuff to. Got my 1200 on a little detachable stand in my truck and runs on 120vac so. Last big one I did I comandeered a doctor's office, had a big long countertop about 20 feet wide with a sink at one end. I set up a little key factory there and did a few units at a time (because some tennants were in some days but not others as doctors rotate offices and there isn't a listed schedule...) over the course of 2 weeks I got every one of the units and utility doors rekeyed. It's quite a thing to design and implement a brand new masterkey system to a large multistory office building. Quite profitable too. Treated myself to a carbide cw-14mc cutter wheel... MAN it really chomps out house keys. I run an old converted 1200 machine with the lever depth handle by AAA products. I just crank out code cut keys and rarely ever go for the duplicator and people love that my keys are better than their originals and with the carbide wheel I can just crank em out a bit faster than I can run my HPC mini speedex can do.
Hi Jason
Thanks for taking the time to do this video.
Very educational.
Another walk down memory lane. Great video Jason. I still run across the odd broken knob return spring.
@11:15 The Schlage catalog seems to indicate that the P in the suffix indicates a 6 pin cylinder while the D indicates a deadbolt instead of a springbolt, however I haven't been able to verify how 5 pin was designated before switching to 6.
Between A51, A52 and A53, the difference is that the A51 has just a turning button: turn it horizontal to lock the outside knob, or vertical to unlock, and you have to manually turn the button to unlock - it doesn't unlock by knob. The A52 unlocks when you turn the knob. With the A53, you can push the button in without turning it horizontal and it will lock the outside knob and it will pop out (unlock) when you turn the inside knob like the A52. If you put the button horizontal then it stays locked when you use the inside knob, the same as the A51.
The change to the F51 actually corresponds with a different designation: the newer version is F51A. As with the A51, the F51 doesn't unlock when the inside knob is used and was discontinued. The F51A unlocks when you use the inside knob. I've always been a little puzzled why it isn't called the the F52 instead, which would be consistent with the A series naming. But then, given the A52 has been discontinued for over four decades, I guess consistency isn't a high priority.
Good 1 on schlage f series. James estep estep locksmith n tn
Great stuff Jay! Those T-pins come in handy for the lock-sporter :P
Great to hear the right history of the F series.😁
Next should be the quick homeowner rekey system.🤔😏
Some call it Schlage's answer to Kwikset Smartkey.🤓
I honestly can't remember the proper name for this system🤯. But I would like to hear the right history of them too.😜
Steel Pinnings secureakey, and it would be a video of me throwing the cylinder in the recycle bin and replacing it ;)
They (secureakey) were only around for a year or so back in 2011
@@zlocksca
That's what it was... 😆
Cheers 🍻
Excellent
Lots of interesting information
Thank you
I’m guessing 70s era by the crinkle design on that old old doorknob
Compressible Cylinders can be really tough to pick. Another issue is when you do pick them open, a lot of times you need to relock the cylinder if there are some long pins because the compressible cap won’t compress enough to remove the cylinder with the plug turned. The chamfer in the plugs you talked about also contribute to the anti pick characteristic of the cylinder. Along with the small tee pin drivers being under higher than normal tension. The drivers don’t set as easily as they do with a sharp cut plug. Let’s see a video on picking them.
How old is the middle knob? thank you for explaining the original latch.
sweet! never saw the original F series before.
now i have the stongest urge to pick my front door.... but im to lazy to get out of the chair.
Another interesting video about American hardware. Sad to see everything rounded to make it work, when we get to work with ultra perfect details here. But people do have problems getting hardware store key to work well. Again not a problem with the real locks as they all come with restricted key profiles sorting that problem the pro way.
Nice job Jay! What is the Model # of the newest generation that unlocks the thumb latch so you won't get locked out? Thanks so much!
That would be the F51A. The previous version which remains locked was the F51
Is there any way to remove the outside knob/cylinder without turning with a key or picking?
Nope
Is there a way to remove the knob from the backplate on the inside handle? This would be on the new version. I don't see how to do it and I need to use my old backplate with the new knob because there is a huge oval hole in my front door that none of the new knob will cover. I am sure it is simple. I just can't figure it out. My knob looks similar to the one to the far left in your video but it doesn't have a lock (just the knob due to deadbolt which is separate). Thanks for any help you can provide.
You likely have the old EB style handleset ua-cam.com/video/o-ewgGIQCo0/v-deo.html and no nothing made beside the Baldwin Brand 2 Point Handleset will cover it. You cannot remove F series interior knobs nor make them work with your ole hardware.
Your only other option is to cut out a piece of wood and fit it into the hole with bondo (or similar) then sand/repaint/restain the door
@@selock Thank you for the quick reply. Yes, that is what I have and the hole is huge. I will look up the Baldwin to see if that is an option for me. Then I will decide on the repair vs. a new front door LOL. Again, thanks so much.
@@kimberlylee5541 make sure it is the one with the large oval interior and not the Kwikset version. Last I looked the handleset was pretty expensive $500 ish plus :( (and they aren’t great handlesets IMO)
@@selock Yes, I just checked the price. I think I am going to paint the old one that I have. I also bought a key pad for the deadbolt and that part I can use (but I will have to paint that too, LOL). Luckily I bought the handle and key pad separate so I can return the handle. My door is in good shape so I can't even justify replacing it. This was suppose to be one of the simpler projects on my to do list LOL.
@@kimberlylee5541 1970 just said…nope
I wonder if I can master key these. Don't believe I tried yet.
Ken _ yes but it’s not fun
@@selock It's not that bad. I always take a few cylinders like the janitor's closet cylinders, which aren't used except after hours cleaning in most office buildings and go door too do rotating out 5 or so cylinders at a time. And most office buildings around here have a vaccant office so I just comandeer the nicest one I'm willing to carry my stuff to. Got my 1200 on a little detachable stand in my truck and runs on 120vac so. Last big one I did I comandeered a doctor's office, had a big long countertop about 20 feet wide with a sink at one end. I set up a little key factory there and did a few units at a time (because some tennants were in some days but not others as doctors rotate offices and there isn't a listed schedule...) over the course of 2 weeks I got every one of the units and utility doors rekeyed. It's quite a thing to design and implement a brand new masterkey system to a large multistory office building. Quite profitable too. Treated myself to a carbide cw-14mc cutter wheel... MAN it really chomps out house keys. I run an old converted 1200 machine with the lever depth handle by AAA products. I just crank out code cut keys and rarely ever go for the duplicator and people love that my keys are better than their originals and with the carbide wheel I can just crank em out a bit faster than I can run my HPC mini speedex can do.
vary informative
Muy bueno
schlage was junk for a very long time i don't know how long but it was a very time since schlage was good