First, no grease needed at all. Second, NEVER pound on a bearing like that. That bearing has an inner race that sits proud of the outer race. Use a socket that contacts the outer race only insert a short extension and then pound away. The bearings shown are permanently lubricated and need no external grease.
agreed santa!! those are greaseless fittings and definitely do not pound that inner race. By doing so, you're already placing hours of operation before first use. Plus side ryker, nice simple way to remove old races. thanks
I agree sealed bearings need no grease, and I agree you do NOT pound on inner race. But if you did want to pack the wheel with grease (let's say you had bearings that needed grease) it would be easier to pack grease in the wheel before you installed the second bearing. Further having hi temp grease is not required as the tractor is operated at low speeds.
These are sealed bearings and packing the hub with grease is not necessary. Just need a little grease for installing the bearing in the hub and some for installing on the spindle, only use for grease in this application is for installation purposes, not operational. If bushings are used instead of bearings, then grease is for installation and operation. In such a case there will be some sort of grease fitting.
A "Sealed Bearing" doesn't mean air/water tight Grease flows through these bearings very easily and it is always best to pack the heck out of the hub(s)
This is an improper installation of bearings. ALWAYS press or tap in a bearing such as this by putting pressure or taping on ONLY the outer race.. A socket or piece of pipe will work for those without the proper tools... Hammering away on the inside race will drastically shorten the life of the bearings as you are beating the ball bearings inside it to death..
My bearing was so bad on my STX 38 that the wheel fell off last week when I was mowing. I ordered all the parts and will replace (probably both) front wheel bearings. I never knew they got wore out overtime, but I guess a 22 year old mower with original bearings dosent owe you anything. Great video!
Just a suggestion. NEVER tap on the center of a bearing to seat it. Find a socket that lines up with the OUTER section of the bearing and tap in using that. Also, since these are sealed bearings, probably no need for grease if the replacement is any quality at all. Yes, if the original wheel had bushings they needed regular greasing, or if you had a 2 part open bearing, but not a sealed bearing. Then again, NEVER pressure wash sealed wheel bearings.
Pete Moss Very true, but I was pointing out there is no reason to use the grease fitting any more as you can't force grease into a sealed bearing In fact, you can damage the seal if you force grease in via the zerk fitting.
Oh my... this guy just wasted so much time "packing" the sealed bearings with grease and the dead space inside the wheel just to have the steering spindle shaft push all that grease back out! 😂 and I wonder how long those bearings will last after pounding on the entire thing with a block of wood. next time find a socket that matches the diameter of the outer race. otherwise, this is a pretty helpful video
Thank you so much for this video. My bearings on the front right side of my mower burst and my tire fell off while I was moving. I went to John Deere and purchased the bearings, o-rings, and lock washer for about $20.... And I see a whole set on Amazon for $20 that includes both sides. And the girl at John Deere didn't tell me anything about using the lithium grease. Thank You Again.
I remember helping my 91B repack bearings on my deuce and a half 20 years ago, and I don't think we wasted that much grease :) That seems like a shortcut to packing the bearings, which I could see in a pinch. However, lots of bearings on a tractor that reasonably calls for a specialty tool. I found this vid which I'd thought of before, which is basically a mod of one they had years ago which used a rubber assembly to pull a vacuum. ua-cam.com/video/OrovQFbMcnc/v-deo.html However, doing a little more searching, and found this vid which seems easier, just a greasegun and a piece of $8 plastic. ua-cam.com/video/UG4p9hUV9nk/v-deo.html Not shilling, just a new 316 owner who finds the prospect of rebuilding all of my pulleys for cheap, to be quite a fun winter task. I blame this guy: ua-cam.com/video/_RCqWIuaLMQ/v-deo.html
There is no need to add grease after the bearings were replaced with Sealed Roller bearings? Sealed bearings will prevent any added grease that you pack in there from getting to the rollers. I would imagine that any further grease maintenance would not be required. since the new bearings are sealed.
Thanks. This probably saved me from damaging my hub. Bearings probably don't need packed but if they do it's way more fun (and messy) to hand pack them. Here's a good video on hand packing: ua-cam.com/video/BhL1uAp_WCw/v-deo.html.
Oh my goodness you made this so easy for me.Thank you for saving me money!! Being a woman ,they always cheat me so bad,wanted 200 to do this,I spent 28 dollars and it works great thanks to you.
These are sealed bearings...all that grease is a waste! And the shop rag actually makes the seating of the bearing more difficult. As long as you don't beat on the inner race all you need is the piece of wood and if you are careful you don't even need that just make sure sure you only TAP on the outer most FLANGE of the bearing to seat it against the wheel !
Use a press for pressing the new bearings on. Also, those bearings are sealed. Only clean up the axle shaft with emery cloth, parts cleaner, then lightly grease the shaft. If play has developed, use grade 8 shims of the correct diameter and consider replacing the snap ring.
In the first place, you do not need to pack those bearings they are sealed, bearing and packed. Second of all you do not use a hammer on top race. This is how you break that balls inside of the beari
Please don't do as this chap did to install these bearings, those are sealed bearings and no grease is needed, that is the reason that we that do small engine work love these type of customers. I see Money Money Money pulling into the shop.
I took the channel lock off, but the wheel would not slide all the way off. It's being blocked by something, the axle slides 3/4 of the way off and hits the other side. I checked the inside of the tire, there was not another channel lock, It's hitting the inside bearing. How do I get the tire off?
What about the washers? My kit came with four washers, inner and outer, but when I put them on, I don't have enough room for the snap ring to go in its slot!
I know this clip is 2014. I just ordered the ebay bearings (listed above on a pop up) for my L120. For my L120 these bearings are not the correct size on OD and ID even though the ad says they do. Please check your bushings with a calipers or micrometers when removing them to be sure the bearings you ordered are correct. The bearings were .003 thousands of an inch less in outer diameter than was the bushing I removed. The bearing fell into the hub with no press fit as does the John Deere bushing. The ID was also off by .010 thousands of an inch. This was a total waste of time. If I had installed these the sloppy fit bearings I would have ruined my axles and hubs in a couple years. They will go together but be prepared for future cost of this modification. The loose bearings only have 7/16 inch of surface against the axle and hub verses the 1.0 inch bearing surface of each of the bushings. In other words the fit has to be perfect for the bearings to properly function or you will have more wobble than the worn out bushings you are replacing. Bottom line is do your homework and get a inside mic or vernier caliper to do your measurements before putting un-spec'd ebay bearings on your lawn tractor wheels.
Thanks, It is a shame this ebay person can continue to run the ad for the bearings on your UA-cam video? He is advertising the correct bearing and shipping junk bearings. This ebay person does not even have the decency to email a person back about their deception.
Just a hint, rather than a block of wood where you are also hammering the inner race and risk damaging the bearing, use a socket that is close to the size of the outer race of the bearing. Oh, everyone else is correct.. Sealed bearings ZERO need for grease in the hub! In fact, just a skim of grease on the axle shaft to prevent any rust is OK.
Are these bearings good quality? I remember once I had a bearing not a John Deere part and it looked like it was in a tin cup. It was a bearing for a pull cart. I could not get it in there, that outer race on the bearing had no rigidity at all and I accidentally destroyed the worthless thing trying to get it in. I prefer a nice bearing with a tough hardened steel inner and outer race of the same quality as the spindle bearings. The ones for my pull cart look like they are made of sheet metal on the outside, it is f-ing sad!!! It is enough to make me get the calipers out and measure the shaft they go on and the hole in the wheel and order some high quality ones that I will *NEVER* have to replace. I am part German and I like high quality parts.
Thanks - I looked this up because my old bearings/bushings didn't want to come out easily. With as much wear as you have, you may have been better off to go all the way to replacing the spindles too. I inherited this JD lawn tractor and the spindles were literally worn 1/2 way through.
Yes that’s what I’m worried about now I’m a novice mechanic the wheel bearings seem quite simple as I upgraded to roller but now that the wheels are off I’m looking at spindle bushings and they look quite worn but are still intact so this is gonna look like a complete rebuild I don’t think I’ll do the bushings this year though on the spindle. Thanks for mentioning that also what about the rear wheels what would they need or are they just connected to the gearing.There’s gotta be some kind of flange bearing back there protecting the rim metal
@@bobby6631 My pleasure! Personally, if the spindles are shot and the bearing are going bad too, but the mower still works OK, I'd just keep pushing on and keep using the mower. The parts will need to be replaced for sure, but both need to be replaced so keeping on isn't going to change that, and it's not like you're going 70 MPH down the road and a busted spindle or bearing would be a bad ending. Just keep an eye on the wheel rim so you don't have to replace a wheel unexpectedly, although with the wear on the spindles, the mower is likely so old it may be worth considering replacing the wheels anyway. The rubber is going to be really old, although inner tubes may still do the trick.
I would love to buy replacement front wheels for my Ryobi rider, to put bigger snow tires on, for when I plow my driveway...how can I do that? Stock wheel bearings have a 47mm outer and 20mm inner diameter.
Part of my summer weekend ritual is routine lawn equipment maintenance. This just happens to be my next project on my 1985 Snapper RER that's still puttering along.
if you have a grease point that lubes the inside of the wheel you can just lube the inside of the wheel with a grease gun on that grease point. makes it a lot easier and makes a lot less of a mess. I know all the john deeres in the past decade has those grease points but older john dears from the mid 90's down may not.
I enjoyed the video regarding changing wheel bearings. I have a 185 and wonder, 3 wheels have the air plug on the outside while the 4th one is one the inside. Which is correct or does it matter?
Douglas Mcveigh It doesn't matter really. My two valve stems on the front wheels are on the inside, and the rear are on the outside. Just easier to get to if they are on the outside.
Thanks! I am a first time owner and so appreciate the help. The vids give me the confidence to go ahead and "do it myself"! Saves money and if so fun too! Again, thank you!
Forgot to add you don't need to pack the sealed bearings, but putting some on the spindle and rings helps. If you had the old style bearings replacement, then packing grease in the bearing and fitting would still be used. Still a nice vid though...
I just received my OEM JD bearings. and notice the inner race of the bearing (part that contacts the axle) is elevated about 1/16 of an inch above the outer race of the bearing (part with the lip). If I tap on it as you suggest it would seem to be stressing the rotating part of the bearing itself instead of the fixed outside race. Seems the best way to do this is to get a socket with outside diameter 1.5" and inside diameter 1 3/8" instead of the way you are demonstrating in order not to damage the bearing. Unfortunately I don't yet have a socket that size...
You could also drill a blind hole in a bit of timber greater than the inside the diameter so the timber only contacts the outer race, that way you still get the benefits of the softer timber making contact, rather than steel on steel.
I have a D100, as far as I can tell you can just tap it off with a hammer and something to tap it, like a flathead screwdriver. Going back on you may be able to use your fingers and push it back on. But if not, a hammer can tap it back in, but its a tight fit maneuvering the hammer around the hubcap.
Thanks. Ii needed to know for a small garden trailer but now I understand the removal of bearing. Nice production too! Right to point meaning no there's no redundancy showing the all steps the steps for a wheel....and not showing us four times. Thanks again!
Once again, thanks for the video, it was good as far as knowing exactly what to expect, and as I indicated, sealed bearings can be damaged by tapping the center, but a socket the same size as the outer bearing race is the way to go. Oh, in my case, the right side wheel was worn to the point of looking like a dirt modified going into a corner. The bushing was worn, but the spindle itself was shot. I have a John Deere store just down the road so it was a 5 min trip to get a new spindle ( about $45.00) and no point installing new bearings on a bad spindle. If your JD store is any distance away, you may want to just pull the wheel and inspect the spindle shaft before you go ahead with slipping the new bearings in.
Yup, maybe. But like I said, the JD dealer is a couple miles down the road and has the parts in stock. I'd rather pay a buck or two more and know they are going to fit and I'm back up and running in 1/2 hour than deal with an internet sale. @@tommak6516
First, no grease needed at all. Second, NEVER pound on a bearing like that. That bearing has an inner race that sits proud of the outer race. Use a socket that contacts the outer race only insert a short extension and then pound away. The bearings shown are permanently lubricated and need no external grease.
Thanks Santa! Exactly what I came to the comments to check.
agreed santa!! those are greaseless fittings and definitely do not pound that inner race. By doing so, you're already placing hours of operation before first use. Plus side ryker, nice simple way to remove old races. thanks
Yes, those were sealed bearings and required no grease at all. He just made a totally unnecessary mess.
I agree sealed bearings need no grease, and I agree you do NOT pound on inner race. But if you did want to pack the wheel with grease (let's say you had bearings that needed grease) it would be easier to pack grease in the wheel before you installed the second bearing. Further having hi temp grease is not required as the tractor is operated at low speeds.
Why Are You Packing the wheels, when You Have Sealed Bearings???
🤗🤣🤣
Yeah, I think will skip that part.
I was wondering the same thing!
These are sealed bearings and packing the hub with grease is not necessary. Just need a little grease for installing the bearing in the hub and some for installing on the spindle, only use for grease in this application is for installation purposes, not operational. If bushings are used instead of bearings, then grease is for installation and operation. In such a case there will be some sort of grease fitting.
Anthony Browning absolutely
My JD has grease fitting. I remove the inboard seal before installing. Then grease till packed.
A "Sealed Bearing" doesn't mean air/water tight
Grease flows through these bearings very easily and it is always best to pack the heck out of the hub(s)
...thought those were sealed bearing???. ..you don't need to pack the bearings..
Fill inside of bearing with 1 oz of grease.
Push onto axle -
Push out 99% of grease.
This is an improper installation of bearings. ALWAYS press or tap in a bearing such as this by putting pressure or taping on ONLY the outer race.. A socket or piece of pipe will work for those without the proper tools...
Hammering away on the inside race will drastically shorten the life of the bearings as you are beating the ball bearings inside it to death..
+Steve 1961P. yep, the best way to do this is with a press or vice
My bearing was so bad on my STX 38 that the wheel fell off last week when I was mowing. I ordered all the parts and will replace (probably both) front wheel bearings. I never knew they got wore out overtime, but I guess a 22 year old mower with original bearings dosent owe you anything. Great video!
Just a suggestion. NEVER tap on the center of a bearing to seat it. Find a socket that lines up with the OUTER section of the bearing and tap in using that. Also, since these are sealed bearings, probably no need for grease if the replacement is any quality at all. Yes, if the original wheel had bushings they needed regular greasing, or if you had a 2 part open bearing, but not a sealed bearing. Then again, NEVER pressure wash sealed wheel bearings.
Yes, good ideas, thanks!
good advice
Greasing the outer edge of the sealed bearing assembly is still a good idea to make insertion easier.
Pete Moss Very true, but I was pointing out there is no reason to use the grease fitting any more as you can't force grease into a sealed bearing In fact, you can damage the seal if you force grease in via the zerk fitting.
Oh my... this guy just wasted so much time "packing" the sealed bearings with grease and the dead space inside the wheel just to have the steering spindle shaft push all that grease back out! 😂 and I wonder how long those bearings will last after pounding on the entire thing with a block of wood. next time find a socket that matches the diameter of the outer race.
otherwise, this is a pretty helpful video
I can't get the plastic cap back on.big washer an circlip..just cant get it over the washer..
За это время можно двигатель перебрать и на Луну слетать!..(
Grab the grease with your hands man ,😊
Left the outer washer off
Thank you so much for this video. My bearings on the front right side of my mower burst and my tire fell off while I was moving. I went to John Deere and purchased the bearings, o-rings, and lock washer for about $20.... And I see a whole set on Amazon for $20 that includes both sides. And the girl at John Deere didn't tell me anything about using the lithium grease. Thank You Again.
Very helpful! I installed my own bearings and saved 30.00. Thanks!
+Patty Finger awesome you are welcome!
Air valve should face outward.
I remember helping my 91B repack bearings on my deuce and a half 20 years ago, and I don't think we wasted that much grease :)
That seems like a shortcut to packing the bearings, which I could see in a pinch.
However, lots of bearings on a tractor that reasonably calls for a specialty tool. I found this vid which I'd thought of before, which is basically a mod of one they had years ago which used a rubber assembly to pull a vacuum.
ua-cam.com/video/OrovQFbMcnc/v-deo.html
However, doing a little more searching, and found this vid which seems easier, just a greasegun and a piece of $8 plastic.
ua-cam.com/video/UG4p9hUV9nk/v-deo.html
Not shilling, just a new 316 owner who finds the prospect of rebuilding all of my pulleys for cheap, to be quite a fun winter task. I blame this guy:
ua-cam.com/video/_RCqWIuaLMQ/v-deo.html
What size were the bearings i dont think i heard you say
There is no need to add grease after the bearings were replaced with Sealed Roller bearings?
Sealed bearings will prevent any added grease that you pack in there from getting to the rollers.
I would imagine that any further grease maintenance would not be required. since the new bearings are sealed.
Just what I needed! Thanks for taking the time to help us:)
Thank you! Appreciate the video
Thanks. This probably saved me from damaging my hub. Bearings probably don't need packed but if they do it's way more fun (and messy) to hand pack them. Here's a good video on hand packing: ua-cam.com/video/BhL1uAp_WCw/v-deo.html.
yeah um no grease
Oh my goodness you made this so easy for me.Thank you for saving me money!! Being a woman ,they always cheat me so bad,wanted 200 to do this,I spent 28 dollars and it works great thanks to you.
Thanks, easy as.
Use your finger or a tablespoon to push grease in.
The spatula is a joke....lol.
Or pump grease in from your grease gun.
💪
I did this and my wife was pissed off I used her spatula! I told her to talk to TheRykerDane!
These are sealed bearings...all that grease is a waste! And the shop rag actually makes the seating of the bearing more difficult. As long as you don't beat on the inner race all you need is the piece of wood and if you are careful you don't even need that just make sure sure you only TAP on the outer most FLANGE of the bearing to seat it against the wheel !
good tips!
Use a press for pressing the new bearings on. Also, those bearings are sealed. Only clean up the axle shaft with emery cloth, parts cleaner, then lightly grease the shaft. If play has developed, use grade 8 shims of the correct diameter and consider replacing the snap ring.
In the first place, you do not need to pack those bearings they are sealed, bearing and packed. Second of all you do not use a hammer on top race. This is how you break that balls inside of the beari
Thanks much, I have to do this on an X500, one side totally failed the other probably not far behind.
The rebar removal trick is useful!
+Paul Willems you are welcome!
Please don't do as this chap did to install these bearings, those are sealed bearings and no grease is needed, that is the reason that we that do small engine work love these type of customers. I see Money Money Money pulling into the shop.
Great tutorial bud. Thanks, I have to do this on my cub. :)
DetectorOCD You are welcome, hope it helped you out!
thank you so much you made it look so easy I know I can do that now. God bless,
You are so welcome
I took the channel lock off, but the wheel would not slide all the way off. It's being blocked by something, the axle slides 3/4 of the way off and hits the other side. I checked the inside of the tire, there was not another channel lock, It's hitting the inside bearing. How do I get the tire off?
There must be a pin or a ring to remove
Wheels are on the wrong way round. Valves should be on the outside.
What about the washers? My kit came with four washers, inner and outer, but when I put them on, I don't have enough room for the snap ring to go in its slot!
Try your original washers. (or a combination of them that gives the best fit.)
ton of play haha. you should look at mine. i didn't notice it till now 😅
sealed bearings, and you just cleaned the wheels but not a bad idea
I know this clip is 2014. I just ordered the ebay bearings (listed above on a pop up) for my L120. For my L120 these bearings are not the correct size on OD and ID even though the ad says they do. Please check your bushings with a calipers or micrometers when removing them to be sure the bearings you ordered are correct. The bearings were .003 thousands of an inch less in outer diameter than was the bushing I removed. The bearing fell into the hub with no press fit as does the John Deere bushing. The ID was also off by .010 thousands of an inch. This was a total waste of time. If I had installed these the sloppy fit bearings I would have ruined my axles and hubs in a couple years. They will go together but be prepared for future cost of this modification. The loose bearings only have 7/16 inch of surface against the axle and hub verses the 1.0 inch bearing surface of each of the bushings. In other words the fit has to be perfect for the bearings to properly function or you will have more wobble than the worn out bushings you are replacing.
Bottom line is do your homework and get a inside mic or vernier caliper to do your measurements before putting un-spec'd ebay bearings on your lawn tractor wheels.
great info, thanks!
Thanks,
It is a shame this ebay person can continue to run the ad for the bearings on your UA-cam video? He is advertising the correct bearing and shipping junk bearings. This ebay person does not even have the decency to email a person back about their deception.
Wouldn't you want the VALVE STEM on the OUTSIDE for servicing?
Do you need to do the rear wheels too? - Thanks
Just a hint, rather than a block of wood where you are also hammering the inner race and risk damaging the bearing, use a socket that is close to the size of the outer race of the bearing. Oh, everyone else is correct.. Sealed bearings ZERO need for grease in the hub! In fact, just a skim of grease on the axle shaft to prevent any rust is OK.
Are these bearings good quality? I remember once I had a bearing not a John Deere part and it looked like it was in a tin cup. It was a bearing for a pull cart. I could not get it in there, that outer race on the bearing had no rigidity at all and I accidentally destroyed the worthless thing trying to get it in. I prefer a nice bearing with a tough hardened steel inner and outer race of the same quality as the spindle bearings. The ones for my pull cart look like they are made of sheet metal on the outside, it is f-ing sad!!! It is enough to make me get the calipers out and measure the shaft they go on and the hole in the wheel and order some high quality ones that I will *NEVER* have to replace. I am part German and I like high quality parts.
Great help Thanks so much
Hi, what if it's STUCK :((( ??? How much are they and are they universal? thank you
Use that EXTRA Grease and put inside the Cap before you Cap it. This will prevent Water from attacking your C Clip Ring :)))
They might be about 10 bucks each and yes I think its pretty standard.
Nice work
What’s the part number for bearing
Great Video!!👍🏻👍🏻
Hey man I tires they're made in China
Thanks - I looked this up because my old bearings/bushings didn't want to come out easily. With as much wear as you have, you may have been better off to go all the way to replacing the spindles too. I inherited this JD lawn tractor and the spindles were literally worn 1/2 way through.
oh wow, yep time to replace parts for sure
Yes that’s what I’m worried about now I’m a novice mechanic the wheel bearings seem quite simple as I upgraded to roller but now that the wheels are off I’m looking at spindle bushings and they look quite worn but are still intact so this is gonna look like a complete rebuild I don’t think I’ll do the bushings this year though on the spindle. Thanks for mentioning that also what about the rear wheels what would they need or are they just connected to the gearing.There’s gotta be some kind of flange bearing back there protecting the rim metal
@@bobby6631 My pleasure! Personally, if the spindles are shot and the bearing are going bad too, but the mower still works OK, I'd just keep pushing on and keep using the mower. The parts will need to be replaced for sure, but both need to be replaced so keeping on isn't going to change that, and it's not like you're going 70 MPH down the road and a busted spindle or bearing would be a bad ending. Just keep an eye on the wheel rim so you don't have to replace a wheel unexpectedly, although with the wear on the spindles, the mower is likely so old it may be worth considering replacing the wheels anyway. The rubber is going to be really old, although inner tubes may still do the trick.
I didn't even know that there were bearings in the wheel hub till I saw this video😂. I guess they were that shot.
Great video really clear description - I have same issue, now I know exactly how to fix the front wheels ..
I would have pulled the bearing cover off and checked for grease inside. They come with very little grease a lot of times.
I would love to buy replacement front wheels for my Ryobi rider, to put bigger snow tires on, for when I plow my driveway...how can I do that? Stock wheel bearings have a 47mm outer and 20mm inner diameter.
i am not sure who makes tires for that one
Part of my summer weekend ritual is routine lawn equipment maintenance. This just happens to be my next project on my 1985 Snapper RER that's still puttering along.
Nice video but you can do without the drumbeat.
ha ha, ok
THE EXTRA GREASE WILL STOP WATER FROM GETTING AND NO FAIL LIKE THE FORMER SEALED BEARINGS.
Quick, good voice, very straightforward directions.
i bet the woman just love those talented fingers you have!! lol. Tap tap tap.
Your remark, Curtis, is totally inappropriate. For today and for 3 years ago.
Really need some help! This damn tire will NOT come off!
if you have a grease point that lubes the inside of the wheel you can just lube the inside of the wheel with a grease gun on that grease point. makes it a lot easier and makes a lot less of a mess. I know all the john deeres in the past decade has those grease points but older john dears from the mid 90's down may not.
I replaced the bushings with Oregon sealed bearings and don't see the point of adding grease now.
I enjoyed the video regarding changing wheel bearings. I have a 185 and wonder, 3 wheels have the air plug on the outside while the 4th one is one the inside. Which is correct or does it matter?
Douglas Mcveigh It doesn't matter really. My two valve stems on the front wheels are on the inside, and the rear are on the outside. Just easier to get to if they are on the outside.
Thanks! I am a first time owner and so appreciate the help. The vids give me the confidence to go ahead and "do it myself"! Saves money and if so fun too! Again, thank you!
You are very welcome, and I am glad I can help. Hope you get it done!
Nice vid. Very easy to follow.
Forgot to add you don't need to pack the sealed bearings, but putting some on the spindle and rings helps. If you had the old style bearings replacement, then packing grease in the bearing and fitting would still be used. Still a nice vid though...
G00D video clean job thanks
Does that model John Deere not have wheel zerk fittings on it. I didn't see any in video, most all current models do is why I ask.
Nope, no zerks on this. This is a 1987 Hydro 185 model. There are zerk fittings on the spindles though. What model do you have?
Looks like a real easy job now to do it
hope it helped!
pls help on this pls replyyy all mechanics surs and brothers
Thanks for this video man 👌👌👌
you are welcome!
I just received my OEM JD bearings. and notice the inner race of the bearing (part that contacts the axle) is elevated about 1/16 of an inch above the outer race of the bearing (part with the lip). If I tap on it as you suggest it would seem to be stressing the rotating part of the bearing itself instead of the fixed outside race. Seems the best way to do this is to get a socket with outside diameter 1.5" and inside diameter 1 3/8" instead of the way you are demonstrating in order not to damage the bearing. Unfortunately I don't yet have a socket that size...
+Paul Willems Yep thats a good way to do it too. Very good idea for putting more force where it needs it when hammering it in.
You could also drill a blind hole in a bit of timber greater than the inside the diameter so the timber only contacts the outer race, that way you still get the benefits of the softer timber making contact, rather than steel on steel.
I wish you would have shown how to remove the snap ring. I am having a tough time.....
I have a D100, as far as I can tell you can just tap it off with a hammer and something to tap it, like a flathead screwdriver. Going back on you may be able to use your fingers and push it back on. But if not, a hammer can tap it back in, but its a tight fit maneuvering the hammer around the hubcap.
race...
haha
Really good video, easy to understand. Thanks, Kevin!!
Baring number
So if these sealed bearing are installed, do you still grease every so often with grease gun?
Sealed bearings do not need to be greased. That's why there sealed....
Great Video! Thanks!
Bearings are sealed!
Far too much grease.
what size snapring pliers ?
Great video on changing wheel bearings. You just saved me a lot of time and money.
you are welcome!
If you have grease zirts on wheel, I typically remove inner seal and grease will enter bearing. Great video.
thanks and good tips
Thanks. Ii needed to know for a small garden trailer but now I understand the removal of bearing. Nice production too! Right to point meaning no there's no redundancy showing the all steps the steps for a wheel....and not showing us four times. Thanks again!
+Christian Gross you are welcome!
Great video, Thanks. Subscribed
you are welcome!
Thanks for the great video, very similar process for my Toro Z420
you are welcome!
Well done, thanks
You are welcome!
Great teaching!
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO AND FOR SAVING ME MONEY
you are welcome!
Very informative, thanks!
Thanks for sharing Stan.... I will try this on my Cadillac.
Excellent Video, helps a lot.
you are welcome!
Thanks, that was exacellent!
you are welcome!
Good job👍 HELPFUL tip no sense in paying a shop to do it!💸
Great video. Made it seem easy for a novice like me!!!
Thank you for video very helpful.
Once again, thanks for the video, it was good as far as knowing exactly what to expect, and as I indicated, sealed bearings can be damaged by tapping the center, but a socket the same size as the outer bearing race is the way to go. Oh, in my case, the right side wheel was worn to the point of looking like a dirt modified going into a corner. The bushing was worn, but the spindle itself was shot. I have a John Deere store just down the road so it was a 5 min trip to get a new spindle ( about $45.00) and no point installing new bearings on a bad spindle. If your JD store is any distance away, you may want to just pull the wheel and inspect the spindle shaft before you go ahead with slipping the new bearings in.
Thats awesome, thanks for the great tips and advice! Hope you are up and running and mowing grass now!
Do you have a video? you are very informative on these things.
Probably can buy parts cheaper on internet then at JD.
Yup, maybe. But like I said, the JD dealer is a couple miles down the road and has the parts in stock. I'd rather pay a buck or two more and know they are going to fit and I'm back up and running in 1/2 hour than deal with an internet sale. @@tommak6516
Why not use a grease gun less mess