Just a tip from what I do. On the lazy susan I opt for running a tool path with a V-bit around the edge before the relief cut. This ensures that the chamfer is consistent, you don't accidentally tip your palm router causing a divot on the edge and your dust extraction handles most of the debris. Other than that, nice projects.
I like your ideas, especially the use of walnut color makes the contrast of the items really special. I also use cnc machine to make the decorations. I am really impressed with your work, a perfect machine that supports a lot of creativity
Not sure if you've tried this with some of your bowl bit projects but I've been running the first cut to "hog out" the material to get it close the exact depth and then doing a second tool path cut out that goes to the final depth and sped way up and with an increased step over to reduce the ridges left by the bowl bit initial time its run.... not sure if that makes any sense but great projects! Enjoying all the cnc videos my guy
Thanks Keith. What's funny is that you posted your comment as I was making the final edits to part 2 of this video. I just posted it so you should check it out if you like this type of content: ua-cam.com/video/UfI9HilxGqk/v-deo.html
the more i watch your stuff bro you are really good i started out like you had all the smaller machines 10 years ago when i started then stepped up buying bigger machines witch really helped me your planer ear muffs had the same one loud have a powermatic 20 inch not as load 25 inch drumb sander now from the jet 16-32 something like that i di what you are doing and saved saved saved to buy bigger machines took ten years but i got them sad part is need ok want bigger machines i have a sawmill i bought 6 years ago can slab up too 32 inch need a bigger planer and drum sander
What grit are you using on that belt sander? I have the same sander, but when I run anything with glue or finish on it, the belt gets totally jammed up. Even a belt eraser can't fix it. Thanks. Great ideas.
I did this project right from the DXF. You might include in your directions that your profile paths are "on" the vector and not outside of them as most projects will cut from the outside on cutouts. I noticed as I was cutting this that the two pieces would not fit together so I ran the toolpath a second time on the vector and it worked out fine, however, I can see someone having a bit of frustration here. Also, you might also include the project dimensions within your directions. I got them off your video. I realize you can make this any size you want, however, if someone is trying to replicate exactly what you demonstrate...
Hey Russell, a few people expressed some confusion about cutting "on the line" vs on the outside of the line so I actually updated the DXF file yesterday to increase the opening to 3/4" so people can cut on the outside of the line. I hope this will help simplify things. Also, that's a good idea to include the dimensions in the instructions. It's included in the listing description, but it would also be helpful in the instructions. Thanks for the tips!
My copy that I purchased last week wasn’t updated apparently. I cut inside and outside wasting 2 really nice pieces of walnut, before looking up what the problem was. The engraving is extremely light as well. You can barely see the lower left. My Avid 6060 is trimmed in to .002 across X and Y. The wood was .758”. I set it at .750” so I didn’t hit my spoilboard. It left. .008” all around, so I know the wood was level as well.
i just imported the dxf file into carveco did the 3/4 bowl bit toolpath at .15 per pass and stepover of 8 % and toolpath summary said 2hrs 35 min. lol how did you do it in 16 minutes ? i think im missing something LOL
Hey Jon - you sure can. Just import the DXF file into your CNC software of choice and create your own tool paths from there. There is an instructional PDF included in your purchases that will help you with contour selection, cutting depths, feeds and speeds, etc. Good luck!
Interesting to watch thanks. As a complete novice, I was wondering what is the accuracy one can achieve on a mass production doing this process? Meaning if I set specific sizes with the cnc, how accurate will be let's say the actual internal cut compared to the settings? I like the gap between the dishes and the tray, looks good aesthetically, but what if I want it to be narrower to the very limit? Would you say the dishes will always fit, or some will and some won't?
Actually I mean something like the tray for the beer glasses. They seem to fit like a gloove. Love it. On a mass scale, is the router able to get always a fine cut or what would you say will be the allowance? thank you
It's a good question. The answer will depend on what kind of a CNC you have. My OneFinity operates on ball screws instead of elastic belts so it can make repeated cuts without losing accuracy over time. Any time I have carved something in large quantities I haven't experienced any variation in the final products. I hope this helps answer your question.
Hello, wonderful work, can I ask about your cnc machine, I'm really interested in building one and yours appears to be a totally different design to any others I've seen, with pipes for linear rails as far as I can tell,what type is it, or did you build it yourself?
I didn’t build mine. It’s made by a company called OneFinity and they use those ball screws to move the router around. It’s a very still design and has remained accurate even after a years worth of use.
Hello Mark, This is wonderful. I'm just looking to get started. I would really appreciate it if you can give me links to CNC machine you use and the rounding machine (I know the name is wrong lol) you use. Please help me out, it would mean the world to me. Thank You!
The CNC I use is called a OneFinity (linked below) and the router I use is a Makita Router (also linked below: CNC: www.onefinitycnc.com/cnc-machines Router: amzn.to/3GbBZQv
I use a OneFinity CNC. I have been very happy with it so far after ~8 months of use. I think its a great machine for anyone looking to do some CNC work.
Mark, great projects. Thanks for taking the time to show us how to do them. One thing I noticed was that you used Fusion 360 for both the design and the tool path for the Onefinity CNC. I've always used the Vectric Vcarve Pro for design and generating the tool path for my Onefinity CNC. I'm in process of teaching myself Fusion 360 for my 3D printer. The design aspect of Fusion 360 seems far superior, in my opinion only :-), to the Vcarve. I would really appreciate it if you can demonstrate the workflow from design to tool path using the Fusion 360. Thanks and keep up the great work.
Thanks for the support. I agree that Fusion 360 has a lot of capability if you're willing to go through the "learning curve" since its not as user friendly as some of the other software out there. In this video I didn't really focus on the design aspects, but there are two other CNC videos where I go into more detail on this process, including the workflow that you're talking about. I recommend you check out these two videos I did a while back to see if that helps you in your journey: video 1: ua-cam.com/video/tkKBD4uaoQo/v-deo.html Video 2: ua-cam.com/video/NVPENSGp5zg/v-deo.html
@@EigenDesigns are you doing .125 / .25 doc per pass? i have a 3/8' bowl bit , so i have my dia set .375, ipm of 160 plung of 70, but im unsure how much to do the doc per pass. i have to go .75 for my veg tray, *material is 1"* or do you think i should only go 1/2" depth and leave 1/2" of mass to the bottom? figuring out this first tray is rough XD
@@SpwnDragn with a 3/8" bowl bit you could do 0.2" per pass. A trick I have learned is to watch the size of the cuttings and listen to the router as you're making your cut. If the cuttings are very small/fine, lower your RPM. If you hear your router actively struggling to cut the piece at your given feed rate, increase your RPM. The key is to feed that information back on subsequent cuts to find the right balance between those two things.
That’s called a router table. I have a link to the one I am using in my description. It is called “Bosch Benchtop Router” and I used a 1/4” roundover bit to create that profile on the edge of my projects. I hope this helps!
Great job as always. I ordered the files for the iPad holder. How do we go about getting a .dxf file for working in another program? I wasn't sure how or if I could get get it off of Etsy. I got the .nc files and will give them a try when I have time. Thanks John.
Hey John, you should have been given a DXF file as part of the purchase. If you don't have it, then shoot me your email through Etsy and I will mail it to you directly.
These turned out really nice. I am always afraid to try something like the "large serving platter" design because wouldn't the wood warp and shift in time digging out so much? I was always told to only do that with glue-up wood strips.
It's always a risk, but I haven't encountered that issue yet. I always use kiln dried wood that has acclimated to my shop so I am sure that helps. You should give something like this a try, worse thing that happens is you ruin less than a board foot of wood. If it ends up warping on you I will mail you a stable one for free.
@@EigenDesigns Thank you for the words. I'll give it a try when I can. It was just one of my worries that I ask random woodworker channels about and most say never do it. Yet I see so many videos. You are honestly the first person I asked that responded positively. I guess I got rooted in my fears when even Wyrmwood had an episode and talked about trays, asked them and they told me not to do it as well. I'm just a woodworker hobbyist, so still learning in my old age.
Down loaded and it came out nice but I have a question. My carve time after downloaded the Gcode the 1st carve was 45 mins and it went in circles. the dish cutout also went in circles not straight movements light your cnc. Yes I downloaded into my oneinfinity. On my 3/4 bowl cutout I notice I had some ridges at the bottom. Usually I use a clean up low step over. Any ideas?
Hey Dave, I am not sure which file you're referring to, but perhaps I can offer some suggestions. If you're looking to optimize the tool path for the dish groove you can import the DXF design file and create your own tool paths, rather than using the g-code files directly. I use fusion 360 for my software and often times the "adaptive clearing" will cause the circles that you're talking about so you can choose a contour cut to carve the channel for the dish instead. The easiest way to get rid of the ridges from the 3/4" bowl bit is to use a drill bit sanding attachment and lightly sand the bottom of the bowl. These are pretty cheap on amazon and make quick work of the ridges left behind by the drill bit. I have played around with the reduced step-over on the final pass and find that there are still markings left behind by the bit. If you need more support feel free to reach out to me through Etsy.
I work concierge and a resident got a 70 something inch tv shipped to them with a good allotment of soft wood. I'm new to all this, is there anything i should do to the wood before adhering and clamping? I may lightly sand sections have some black text printed on, but there are also American flags throughout it that I actually want to keep.
I have tried a few different types of double sided tape and been unlucky to have the pieces move on me during a carve. It could be the 1” grid lines on my spoilboard prevent the tape from getting a good bond, but I’m not sure. I’ve never had that issue with the painters tape method.
Mark, great video. Question, during the first part it references using the 90 degree v carve bit to do the cutouts and the then the 1/4 inch endmill when doing the carving but, that seems to be backwards to me. I'm new to this and want to be sure I setup the bits in the correct toolpath sequence since I have to redo the toolpaths (vectric) after purchasing your files off etsy. Do I use the endmill first then the vcarve or the opposite? If so, I think the video bit references may be backwards or it's just me. Thanks.
I just noticed what you’re talking about and it’s definitely a mixup on my part - great catch. The cutouts should be done with the end mill and the engraving should be done with the 90 degree v carve bit. Also, in general it’s better to do the engraving first before doing the cut out. You don’t have to do it in that order, but it’s a better habit to get into. Hopefully this clears up the confusion.
@@EigenDesigns Thanks. That clears it up. I'm working on updating the toolpaths in vectric and plan on doing some playing around this weekend. Thanks and again, great videos.
Hey Jim, I have a OneFinity CNC. They are great machines and pretty user friendly for those new to the space. The only down side is that they normally have a lead time to order one, but it’s worth the wait.
Just a tip from what I do. On the lazy susan I opt for running a tool path with a V-bit around the edge before the relief cut. This ensures that the chamfer is consistent, you don't accidentally tip your palm router causing a divot on the edge and your dust extraction handles most of the debris. Other than that, nice projects.
That’s a really clever tip Jeremiah, thank you!
You’re becoming UA-cams foremost authority on CNCs! Great video and hopefully this video will take off so you can sell lots of plans.
Thanks Logan! When is your next video dropping?
@@EigenDesigns came out yesterday. I hav another coming out tomorrow 👍
I like your ideas, especially the use of walnut color makes the contrast of the items really special. I also use cnc machine to make the decorations. I am really impressed with your work, a perfect machine that supports a lot of creativity
Absolutely wonderful beginner carves. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks so much for the support Ron! I hope you found this helpful.
I should also add, this was a great idea and fun project! Nice job.
Great, quick projects :)
Thank you :) You're first yet again
@@EigenDesigns I'm ubiquitous :p
Terrific projects. I can't wait to get my 1F Journeyman setup
You are going to love it. I use mine all the time and for things I never even thought of when I first bought mine.
Not sure if you've tried this with some of your bowl bit projects but I've been running the first cut to "hog out" the material to get it close the exact depth and then doing a second tool path cut out that goes to the final depth and sped way up and with an increased step over to reduce the ridges left by the bowl bit initial time its run.... not sure if that makes any sense but great projects! Enjoying all the cnc videos my guy
That's a really good idea! Thanks Blake. That would certainly cut down on the sanding needs on the back end. Thanks for the tip.
Great Video. Can't wait to watch more. Keep them coming!
Thanks Keith. What's funny is that you posted your comment as I was making the final edits to part 2 of this video. I just posted it so you should check it out if you like this type of content:
ua-cam.com/video/UfI9HilxGqk/v-deo.html
@@EigenDesigns Will do. I find your videos are very well done.
Dang! I didn’t get past 0:54 until I could find those awesome magnetic dust collector hookup thingees!
The magport connectors are awesome. They are pretty pricy, but it makes connecting and disconnecting dust collection an instant thing.
the more i watch your stuff bro you are really good i started out like you had all the smaller machines 10 years ago when i started then stepped up buying bigger machines witch really helped me your planer ear muffs had the same one loud have a powermatic 20 inch not as load 25 inch drumb sander now from the jet 16-32 something like that i di what you are doing and saved saved saved to buy bigger machines took ten years but i got them sad part is need ok want bigger machines i have a sawmill i bought 6 years ago can slab up too 32 inch need a bigger planer and drum sander
What grit are you using on that belt sander? I have the same sander, but when I run anything with glue or finish on it, the belt gets totally jammed up. Even a belt eraser can't fix it. Thanks. Great ideas.
Thanks for sharing, awesome functional products. New sub here, what design software are you using? Thanks again!
Great work, would you mind sharing the name of the software used? Thank you in advance
I did this project right from the DXF. You might include in your directions that your profile paths are "on" the vector and not outside of them as most projects will cut from the outside on cutouts. I noticed as I was cutting this that the two pieces would not fit together so I ran the toolpath a second time on the vector and it worked out fine, however, I can see someone having a bit of frustration here. Also, you might also include the project dimensions within your directions. I got them off your video. I realize you can make this any size you want, however, if someone is trying to replicate exactly what you demonstrate...
Hey Russell, a few people expressed some confusion about cutting "on the line" vs on the outside of the line so I actually updated the DXF file yesterday to increase the opening to 3/4" so people can cut on the outside of the line. I hope this will help simplify things. Also, that's a good idea to include the dimensions in the instructions. It's included in the listing description, but it would also be helpful in the instructions. Thanks for the tips!
My copy that I purchased last week wasn’t updated apparently. I cut inside and outside wasting 2 really nice pieces of walnut, before looking up what the problem was. The engraving is extremely light as well. You can barely see the lower left. My Avid 6060 is trimmed in to .002 across X and Y. The wood was .758”. I set it at .750” so I didn’t hit my spoilboard. It left. .008” all around, so I know the wood was level as well.
@@shockdocracing What's your order number so I can help get this resolved?
Nicely Done Mark !
Thanks Craig :)
i just imported the dxf file into carveco did the 3/4 bowl bit toolpath at .15 per pass and stepover of 8 % and toolpath summary said 2hrs 35 min. lol how did you do it in 16 minutes ? i think im missing something LOL
I just got the files for I pad holder can I do it on a cnc that’s not onefinity thank you can’t wait to make these
Hey Jon - you sure can. Just import the DXF file into your CNC software of choice and create your own tool paths from there. There is an instructional PDF included in your purchases that will help you with contour selection, cutting depths, feeds and speeds, etc. Good luck!
Muy genial tu trabajo. Bendiciones y saludos cordiales desde Lebu Chile
¡Muchos gracias! Qué tengas un lindo día.
Interesting to watch thanks. As a complete novice, I was wondering what is the accuracy one can achieve on a mass production doing this process? Meaning if I set specific sizes with the cnc, how accurate will be let's say the actual internal cut compared to the settings? I like the gap between the dishes and the tray, looks good aesthetically, but what if I want it to be narrower to the very limit? Would you say the dishes will always fit, or some will and some won't?
Actually I mean something like the tray for the beer glasses. They seem to fit like a gloove. Love it.
On a mass scale, is the router able to get always a fine cut or what would you say will be the allowance? thank you
It's a good question. The answer will depend on what kind of a CNC you have. My OneFinity operates on ball screws instead of elastic belts so it can make repeated cuts without losing accuracy over time. Any time I have carved something in large quantities I haven't experienced any variation in the final products.
I hope this helps answer your question.
@@EigenDesigns It does! Thanks a lot mate!
Hello, wonderful work, can I ask about your cnc machine, I'm really interested in building one and yours appears to be a totally different design to any others I've seen, with pipes for linear rails as far as I can tell,what type is it, or did you build it yourself?
I didn’t build mine. It’s made by a company called OneFinity and they use those ball screws to move the router around. It’s a very still design and has remained accurate even after a years worth of use.
@@EigenDesigns ok, thanks for the info, I'll check them out.
Hello Mark, This is wonderful. I'm just looking to get started. I would really appreciate it if you can give me links to CNC machine you use and the rounding machine (I know the name is wrong lol) you use. Please help me out, it would mean the world to me. Thank You!
The CNC I use is called a OneFinity (linked below) and the router I use is a Makita Router (also linked below:
CNC: www.onefinitycnc.com/cnc-machines
Router: amzn.to/3GbBZQv
Hey, great job!! Can you share the amazon link for the carrousel system for the lazy susan? Im kind of lazy Yorch...
Would you mind sharing the name of the font on your beer flight? It looks really nice and seems to carve great.
Which CNC machine are you using/recommending for these projects? Thanks, Rick Stacy
I use a OneFinity CNC. I have been very happy with it so far after ~8 months of use. I think its a great machine for anyone looking to do some CNC work.
can u please explain to me how u went about setting the bowl bit or the details inside of carbide create and carbide motion
Mark, great projects. Thanks for taking the time to show us how to do them. One thing I noticed was that you used Fusion 360 for both the design and the tool path for the Onefinity CNC. I've always used the Vectric Vcarve Pro for design and generating the tool path for my Onefinity CNC. I'm in process of teaching myself Fusion 360 for my 3D printer. The design aspect of Fusion 360 seems far superior, in my opinion only :-), to the Vcarve. I would really appreciate it if you can demonstrate the workflow from design to tool path using the Fusion 360. Thanks and keep up the great work.
Thanks for the support. I agree that Fusion 360 has a lot of capability if you're willing to go through the "learning curve" since its not as user friendly as some of the other software out there. In this video I didn't really focus on the design aspects, but there are two other CNC videos where I go into more detail on this process, including the workflow that you're talking about. I recommend you check out these two videos I did a while back to see if that helps you in your journey:
video 1: ua-cam.com/video/tkKBD4uaoQo/v-deo.html
Video 2: ua-cam.com/video/NVPENSGp5zg/v-deo.html
Very good content in your videos.
Appreciate the support Joseph!
Hey, what are you feeds and speeds for the 3/4" bowl bit? I am just about to do my first bowl cut and curious where to start. Thanks for the ideas!
Hey Ryan, I typically run my bowl bit at 160 in/min with an RPM of ~15,000.
@@EigenDesigns are you doing .125 / .25 doc per pass? i have a 3/8' bowl bit , so i have my dia set .375, ipm of 160 plung of 70, but im unsure how much to do the doc per pass. i have to go .75 for my veg tray, *material is 1"* or do you think i should only go 1/2" depth and leave 1/2" of mass to the bottom? figuring out this first tray is rough XD
@@SpwnDragn with a 3/8" bowl bit you could do 0.2" per pass. A trick I have learned is to watch the size of the cuttings and listen to the router as you're making your cut. If the cuttings are very small/fine, lower your RPM. If you hear your router actively struggling to cut the piece at your given feed rate, increase your RPM. The key is to feed that information back on subsequent cuts to find the right balance between those two things.
@@EigenDesigns gotcha thank you
Great video sir!
Thanks AutoRaiders!
Hello Mark, what is the round over machine called and where can I get that? the one in 7:28 mins of this video. Please let me know. Thank You!
That’s called a router table. I have a link to the one I am using in my description. It is called “Bosch Benchtop Router” and I used a 1/4” roundover bit to create that profile on the edge of my projects.
I hope this helps!
Always decorative stuff first and panel cutout last. Things sometimes move when profiling
Beautiful
I'm still somewhat new to cnc machines, Vcarve came with my machine. How will the files match up with with with that software ?
The design files come with a DXF file that you can import into Vcarve and make your own tool paths in that software.
Great job as always. I ordered the files for the iPad holder. How do we go about getting a .dxf file for working in another program? I wasn't sure how or if I could get get it off of Etsy. I got the .nc files and will give them a try when I have time. Thanks John.
Hey John, you should have been given a DXF file as part of the purchase. If you don't have it, then shoot me your email through Etsy and I will mail it to you directly.
These turned out really nice. I am always afraid to try something like the "large serving platter" design because wouldn't the wood warp and shift in time digging out so much? I was always told to only do that with glue-up wood strips.
It's always a risk, but I haven't encountered that issue yet. I always use kiln dried wood that has acclimated to my shop so I am sure that helps.
You should give something like this a try, worse thing that happens is you ruin less than a board foot of wood. If it ends up warping on you I will mail you a stable one for free.
@@EigenDesigns Thank you for the words. I'll give it a try when I can. It was just one of my worries that I ask random woodworker channels about and most say never do it. Yet I see so many videos. You are honestly the first person I asked that responded positively.
I guess I got rooted in my fears when even Wyrmwood had an episode and talked about trays, asked them and they told me not to do it as well.
I'm just a woodworker hobbyist, so still learning in my old age.
Great video, and your files are sold where?
Hey Ed, you can find them on my website: eigendesigns.com or you can see the links in the video description.
Down loaded and it came out nice but I have a question. My carve time after downloaded the Gcode the 1st carve was 45 mins and it went in circles. the dish cutout also went in circles not straight movements light your cnc. Yes I downloaded into my oneinfinity. On my 3/4 bowl cutout I notice I had some ridges at the bottom. Usually I use a clean up low step over. Any ideas?
Hey Dave, I am not sure which file you're referring to, but perhaps I can offer some suggestions.
If you're looking to optimize the tool path for the dish groove you can import the DXF design file and create your own tool paths, rather than using the g-code files directly. I use fusion 360 for my software and often times the "adaptive clearing" will cause the circles that you're talking about so you can choose a contour cut to carve the channel for the dish instead.
The easiest way to get rid of the ridges from the 3/4" bowl bit is to use a drill bit sanding attachment and lightly sand the bottom of the bowl. These are pretty cheap on amazon and make quick work of the ridges left behind by the drill bit. I have played around with the reduced step-over on the final pass and find that there are still markings left behind by the bit.
If you need more support feel free to reach out to me through Etsy.
Nice idea for blocking the panel
What type of material is this and where can I find it locally
What CA glue and activator do you recommend using on the blue painter's tape?
Just sent you a DM on etsy
I work concierge and a resident got a 70 something inch tv shipped to them with a good allotment of soft wood. I'm new to all this, is there anything i should do to the wood before adhering and clamping? I may lightly sand sections have some black text printed on, but there are also American flags throughout it that I actually want to keep.
If you're going to use reclaimed wood, make sure you remove all nails, staples, and other metal objects before working with it
@@EigenDesigns really appreciate you and your channel
Hi what Woods You using for the modèle ?
Why do some people use painters tape and CA glue versus double sided tape. I use double sided tape without any issues.
Maybe I’m just been lucky so far?
I have tried a few different types of double sided tape and been unlucky to have the pieces move on me during a carve. It could be the 1” grid lines on my spoilboard prevent the tape from getting a good bond, but I’m not sure. I’ve never had that issue with the painters tape method.
Great projects.
Thanks so much for the support Angie :)
How do you sell these ? Without having a UA-cam channel
Channels are harder to clean than pockets. Maybe that center dish should sit in a pocket instead of a channel in case someone spills dip.
Mark, great video. Question, during the first part it references using the 90 degree v carve bit to do the cutouts and the then the 1/4 inch endmill when doing the carving but, that seems to be backwards to me. I'm new to this and want to be sure I setup the bits in the correct toolpath sequence since I have to redo the toolpaths (vectric) after purchasing your files off etsy. Do I use the endmill first then the vcarve or the opposite? If so, I think the video bit references may be backwards or it's just me. Thanks.
I just noticed what you’re talking about and it’s definitely a mixup on my part - great catch. The cutouts should be done with the end mill and the engraving should be done with the 90 degree v carve bit. Also, in general it’s better to do the engraving first before doing the cut out. You don’t have to do it in that order, but it’s a better habit to get into. Hopefully this clears up the confusion.
@@EigenDesigns Thanks. That clears it up. I'm working on updating the toolpaths in vectric and plan on doing some playing around this weekend. Thanks and again, great videos.
@@j.zamanma1312 thanks so much :):)
I see a lot of people using tape and glue to hold the piece down. Is there a reason you don’t just use double sided tape?
Always wondering the same thing
Nice stuff, how do you go about selling these?
I just sell through Etsy. Etsy takes a cut of each sale, but its not terrible.
just did one but i dont think did wide enough on outside cuts how wide did you make yours i just bought a shopsabre23 and im learning
6:21 what is the thickness of the wood ?
The wood is 3/4" thick for that particular tray and the pockets are 1/2" deep
I would like to purchase a CNC to begin doing projects like this. What CNC do you have?
Hey Jim, I have a OneFinity CNC. They are great machines and pretty user friendly for those new to the space. The only down side is that they normally have a lead time to order one, but it’s worth the wait.
Do you have plans for your CNC housing?
Hey John, I unfortunately don't. I wish I could be of more help to you
Where did you get the magnetic hose attachment for the planer?
Hey Ivan, its from a company called MagPort. They are a bit expensive, but I use them all throughout my shop.
@@EigenDesigns yes I saw you use them a lot. I’m going to check them out. Your cnc cabinet has inspired me to build one for my Shapeoko
What CNC machine are you usung?
I use a OneFinity CNC. It’s a great machine - I would highly recommend it.
@@EigenDesigns ty
What program are you using?
Hey Ormond, I am using Fusion 360. They have a free version available for personal/hobby use.
What's the thickness of your trays?
The trays were cut from 0.75” stock
Thanks I wasn't quite sure if that's standard or if they need to be thicker.
Eigen are these fusion 360 files
Hey David, yes I design all of my files in Fusion 360
Subbed
Yoooo what kind of crackers were those???
Cnc router ❤️👍
interesting
what program are you using?
I use Fusion 360. There is a free version available for hobbists that I use. I would recommend it