Excellent video, straight to the point, no kids screaming in the background, no stopping to pet your dog on the head. Just straight up HOW TO. Thanks!!
Great video! The dealer charges ~$250 to do this job (OEM Mazda plugs cost mucho $$$, plus 1 hr labor @ $125). Watching this gives me full confidence to do it myself.
Thanks Enrique... for 'newbie' DIY 'ers... may just want to use a torque wrench (cheap to buy) to take the guesswork out of tightening... torque specs for the plugs are 10-14 N·m, or 8-10 lb-ft.
Thanks for the good instruction. Have Done this on many cars (just not the Mazda Skyactive). Keep up the good work. Might add a stronger warning not to get anti seize on the end of the spark plug (my dad lost a race because of this). Do get at least a small amount on the first thread and the next few. It's the first 3 threads that will cause the problem if galling starts to happen. Ask me how I know this - learned it the hard way!
Fantastic! Good luck to you. Reply to and like this comment if and when you have any questions. Liking a comment sends me an alert which will allows me to answer you in a timely manner. You got this!!
Excellent video bro. Just a few thing with the applying of anti seize. Can result in poor grounding of the spark plug also you may over tighten the spark plug because there is a difference between wet and dry torque values. You may not want to over tighten these. Saw too many head repairs in my time due to over tighten of spark plugs. Just keep it simple, no anti seize. Thanks again
I used a regular deep well 14mm socket from Auto Zone. I had some little square magnets that fit perfectly on a 3/8 rachet. Instant magnetic socket. Always a good idea to salvage magnets! They're kind of like pockets on shirts!!
Nicely done, if you are careful a regular socket will work with a spark plug. I just did not want to promote that for fear that unfortunate errors would be made. Thank you for sharing your experience and thanks for watching!!.
It was a spark plug socket. Regular size deep well. Had the rubber insert inside it, but it wouldn't hold the skinny little plug. Magnet worked perfect.
You don’t need to apply any anti-seize on the spark plug threads since NGK’s already come with thin layer coating of anti-seize applied at the factory. Information is on NGK’s website.
You are absolutely right. It's an old habit. I should have researched. Thank you for your comment :) Since this Mazda is my daily driver I will report any effects from using antisieze on these plugs.
I bought it off eBay. The original listing is closed but I found a similar one. www.ebay.com/itm/CTA-MANUFACTURING-Spark-Plug-Socket-14mm-x-6Pt-x-10-w-Magnet-CM2394-/112338197284?hash=item1a27e0db24 Thanks for your question and thanks for watching!!
Hi Enrique, I got the same spark plugs like you, and have the same old as you, but I observed that the old ones DILKAR7F8 have a 0.8 mm gap, and the new ones ILKAR7L11 have a 1.1 mm gap and I was afraid to go with the change because of that plus old ones were still looking fine at 80K miles. How they are working for you? Also, I saw that the ILKAR7L11 are on the Mazda CX-5 with 2.0 Skyactive engine but still not sure that will be a good replacement.
So far so good. I have about 5000 miles on the plugs. I have even done some primary and secondary ignition tests before and after the plug change and there are no notable differences. I did not know that there was a difference in gap. Honestly I did not check. I will post any problems I have in the future. I would like to make an authentic diagnosis video. Thank you for your comments and question and thanks for watching!!
From this Mazda 3 forum post, it looks that ILKAR7L11 are good: mazda3revolution.com/forums/2010-2013-mazda-3-engine-performance/103530-2012-mazda3i-skyactiv-spark-plugs.html#post1871626 See Sophie post #9: "The original OEM spark plugs are either NGK DILKAR7F8 or DENSO FC20HPR8 with gap of 0.030 - 0.033 in Mine had the NGK's, but when I went to look up replacement parts and also checked at the dealer, it seemed these have been superseded by NGK ILKAR7L11 and DENSO ZC20HPR11. Even NGKs website does not list the original part anymore. The dealer of course wants to sell them for $31 a piece, but you can find elsewhere for $12-$13 The new spark plugs are set to a larger gap of 0.0414-0.0452 in. (due to improved platinum ground terminal I think) The plugs I got from the store were gapped to 0.041. It took me a while to confirm that this was the correct gap, because I was still seeing the original .030 - .033 spec. "
Does anyone know the firing order for the 2012 3 skyactiv? I've had misfires on 1 and 4 recently and had my coil packs replaced by service techs to fix both times, so I am looking to replace the other 2, but it was long enough ago that I can't tell which coils are the new ones and which are old.
Firing order is 1-3-4-2. The number 1 cylinder is the one closest to the belts. Let me know if you have anymore questions. Thank you for your comment, and thanks for watching!! Edit: The cylinders number increases in order, meaning that the number 1 cylinder is the one closest to the belts. Number 2 is the next cylinder. Number 3 is the one after that, and the 4th cylinder is the one furthest from the belts.
www.ebay.com/itm/273447165786 Here is the link to one I have, but any 6 point 14mm spark plugs socket will do the trick. Thank you for your question and thanks for watching!!
Trying to source a set of plus for my sister's skyactive 3. I don't want to pay dealer price, does anyone have a part number I can find at a local auto parts store like advance or autozone?
The NGK plugs I used in the video I bought at AutoZone. NGK Part Number:ILKAR7L11 Alternate Part Number: 94124 Link below to the part number in the video. ua-cam.com/video/cxU3v4mTu40/v-deo.html
The main purpose of dielectric grease is to prevent the spark from arcing to ground. In humid areas there is a chance that moisture could accumulate in the small space between the spark plug porcelain and the rubber of the boot on the ignition coil. This can create a path where the spark can escape. That is the simplified reason to why dielectric grease is important. To dive into this a little deeper, the reason the current flowing through the ignition coil is able to "jump the gap" of the spark plug is due to the incredibly high voltage the ignition coil is capable of producing. More importantly the electric field strength is very high between the sharp points of the spark plug gap. The high strength electric field ionizes the gases within the strong electric field which creates a low resistance path which results in the visible spark. To maintain the high strength electric field there can be no other paths to ground that are comparable in impedance otherwise there will be energy wasted in supplying current to that parallel path. This parasitic path can be created through a microscopic air or moisture path found within the minuscule gap between the rubber boot and the spark-plug porcelain. Dielectric grease will ensure that any path will have such a high impedance, that it will have little to no effect on the electric field strength, thus no wasted energy. There were some oversimplifications in this explanation as well but this explains it a bit better. The dielectric grease is not absolutely necessary. I admit that there are times where I have not used. For longer lived ignition coils and spark-plugs, use the dielectric grease. It costs a few dollars for a tube and will last you years. Additionally it acts as a lubricant that makes it easier to install and remove (usually years later) the ignition coil.
It is a 3/8" drive 14 mm 6 point magnetic spark plug socket. Here is a similar link from eBay. www.ebay.com/itm/CTA-MANUFACTURING-Spark-Plug-Socket-14mm-x-6Pt-x-10-w-Magnet-CM2394-/112338197284?hash=item1a27e0db24
Sorry about that. I used to work at dealerships and they really should be call stealerships. Nothing but scum work there. I am ashamed to say that I was not clean either and am very happy to be out of that career. Thank you for your comment and thank you for watching.
Agreed! It was my mistake. We shall see how it negatively affects my car since this Mazda is my daily driver. Thank you for pointing out my error, my goal is to provide accurate information.
YES!! If you have incorrect tools or if you are unfamiliar with how much pressure or tension to place on different components, there is a chance you could damage something. The biggest things I could see going wrong is using an incorrect tool for the spark plug and breaking the spark plug. Extracting a broken spark plug can be a very difficult thing to do. Another really bad thing would be inserting the spark plugs at an angle , damaging the threads on the cylinder head, which is a costly mistake. If you drop something into the cylinder while the spark plug is out and you are unable to retrieve the object, or worse start the car with the object in the cylinder, there could be catastrophic engine damage. In reality these are risks that mechanics encounter everyday and even professionals with years of experience occasionally get it wrong. Honestly, there are so many ways things could go wrong but don't be too discouraged. The process is easy and with a little patience, the right tools and EXTREME attention to detail, you can accomplish this.
There’s only one way, you mess up the threads, either the spark plug threads or the cylinder threads. 1. Over tightened and you’ll probably strip the cylinder threads or break the spark plug metal shell threads which will now be stuck in the engine but you’d really have to be trying, it would take A LOT of force and two hands to do that. So not really likely to happen. 2. Under tightened and overtime they will get loose and they’ll blow out of the engine taking the threads with it. unless your car has coil on plugs that bolts to the valve cover. This will prevent the spark plug from blowing out because the coil will stop it and you’d get a misfire alerting you but if they’re spark plug wires that just clips in, they will blow out and the damage will be done without warning. More likely to happen if you’re doing this by hand and without a torque wrench like you should be using when doing this. 3. Cross thread the plugs and you destroy the threads in the cylinder. Aluminum is weaker than steel, spark plugs are made from steel, most engines are aluminum. Steel will win and strip your threads.
Okay so I know that the video was 2 years old but I think that you should of told people that they have to gap they're plugs before you put them on. At least that's what I was told anyways from auto zone and he pulled up on the computer that there supposed to be gaped at .051 on one of those gaping tools that you have to buy.
As the car ages, that cosmetic cover's underside insulation will continually disintegrate and drop dust and microfiber particles all over the block underneath, and you'll find it collecting where you would never want it. Also hazardous to your lungs. If you ever work on it yourself or bring it in, it's a good idea to vacuum or damp wipe around the oil cap, dipstick and spark plug tubes. And if you bring it to a mechanic, remove the cover and do the cleaning before you bring it in. They won't clean, and that shit will get inside the engine.
Never use antisieze on spark plugs. A little PB Blaster before hand will work just fine. If you change spark plugs at recommended intervals you won't have a problem.
What would be the logic behind 'never use antisieze on spark plugs' seems to make a lot of sense to me. Trying to understand the downside of doing this.
I guess my biggest problem with it is that it is like powdered metal shavings in a grease. Do you really want that leaking down your threads and going through your engine? It can also cause the threads to strip because when you torque the Spark Plug it makes the threads slippery and it will take more pressure against the threads to get to the proper torque. Not that I agree on that, I have never had a problem using it on lug nuts but there are people that will disagree with using it for that.
@@glennrudolph6058 NGK specify do not use antisieze because it leads to inaccurate torquing. They narrow down the uncertainties for you by adding corrosion resistant plating. ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs
@@toyminator24 what is the logic in not using bulb grease on spark plugs??? It's to preserve the life of the spark plug, which is pretty cheap to replace... But it also prevents water from entering the plug and creating rust.
Excellent video, straight to the point, no kids screaming in the background, no stopping to pet your dog on the head. Just straight up HOW TO. Thanks!!
I am glad I could help. Thank you for your kind words and thank you for watching!!
Nice video, concise but informative. Exactly what I was looking for.
Thank you for the kind words and thanks for watching!!!
Hey! Thank you for the video! Just had a coil pack go out on my Mazda 3. Was able to get it replaced and running with the help of this video.
Glad it helped! Thank you for your kind words and thanks for watching!
Thank you so much, helped me to now the exact size of sparks plugs for my mazda . Thanks again
It was my pleasure. 😊 Thank you so much for your comment and thanks for watching!!
Great video! The dealer charges ~$250 to do this job (OEM Mazda plugs cost mucho $$$, plus 1 hr labor @ $125). Watching this gives me full confidence to do it myself.
Glad to hear it. Thanks for watching!!
Thanks Enrique... for 'newbie' DIY 'ers... may just want to use a torque wrench (cheap to buy) to take the guesswork out of tightening... torque specs for the plugs are 10-14 N·m, or 8-10 lb-ft.
What are the torque specs for the coil pack studs? Are they the same as the cover bracket nuts?
thank you so much, excellent explanation and very clear. wish you continue success.
Thank you very much for the encouragement. It means a lot to me. Thank you for watching!!!
Thanks man! That was really informative! I just got this car and am about to do its first set. I’m at 71K now.
Thanks for the good instruction. Have Done this on many cars (just not the Mazda Skyactive). Keep up the good work. Might add a stronger warning not to get anti seize on the end of the spark plug (my dad lost a race because of this). Do get at least a small amount on the first thread and the next few. It's the first 3 threads that will cause the problem if galling starts to happen. Ask me how I know this - learned it the hard way!
Excellent point. Grease on the spark plug tip is not good.
Excellent video! 😃👏🏼
Fantastic Enrique. I plan to do ours this weekend.
Fantastic! Good luck to you. Reply to and like this comment if and when you have any questions. Liking a comment sends me an alert which will allows me to answer you in a timely manner. You got this!!
Excellent video bro. Just a few thing with the applying of anti seize. Can result in poor grounding of the spark plug also you may over tighten the spark plug because there is a difference between wet and dry torque values. You may not want to over tighten these. Saw too many head repairs in my time due to over tighten of spark plugs. Just keep it simple, no anti seize. Thanks again
A very good job of explaining how to change plugs. I have seen other people tighten plugs by cranking them with a ratchet all the way...…. not good!
Thank you, I have seen that too many times as well. Thanks for your comment and thanks for watching!!
Awesome video! Thanks for the knowledge!
My pleasure!
Great video man
Great video
Thanks for e video bro helped alot
Glad it helped
I used a regular deep well 14mm socket from Auto Zone. I had some little square magnets that fit perfectly on a 3/8 rachet. Instant magnetic socket. Always a good idea to salvage magnets! They're kind of like pockets on shirts!!
Nicely done, if you are careful a regular socket will work with a spark plug. I just did not want to promote that for fear that unfortunate errors would be made. Thank you for sharing your experience and thanks for watching!!.
It was a spark plug socket. Regular size deep well. Had the rubber insert inside it, but it wouldn't hold the skinny little plug. Magnet worked perfect.
Thank you for this!!
My pleasure. Thank you for your kind words and thanks for watching!!!!!
Good job!
Awesome thank u for this vid!
Glad you liked it!
Gracias amigo por el video
Very good, thank you!✌️
You don’t need to apply any anti-seize on the spark plug threads since NGK’s already come with thin layer coating of anti-seize applied at the factory. Information is on NGK’s website.
You are absolutely right. It's an old habit. I should have researched. Thank you for your comment :)
Since this Mazda is my daily driver I will report any effects from using antisieze on these plugs.
Would be same for the 2011 Axela skyactiv 2.0 as well ?
Hey, i didn’t read the comments until too late and i applied the anti-seize lol. Did the anti-seize have any affect on the car?
Hi Enrique. Thanks for the good material. Could you refer to spark plug socket did you use? I bought OEM but it's too short.
I bought it off eBay. The original listing is closed but I found a similar one.
www.ebay.com/itm/CTA-MANUFACTURING-Spark-Plug-Socket-14mm-x-6Pt-x-10-w-Magnet-CM2394-/112338197284?hash=item1a27e0db24
Thanks for your question and thanks for watching!!
Thanks.
Hey what is the purpose of the connector next to the spark plug, mine are soaked in oil.
Hi thanks for the informative video.
Can you add a list of the tools used in the description or comments please
I used a 14mm spark plug socket, a 3/8" ratchet, a flathead screwdriver, a 10mm 3/8" drive deep socket and straight pick.
👍
Thanks so much
My pleasure. Thanks for watching!
I have two questions - what are your work gloves?. 2. could you shoot more video about the oscilloscope?
Thank you))
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00579VG0C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hi Enrique, can we just use wd-40 in lieu of the dialectric grease?'
Hi Enrique,
I got the same spark plugs like you, and have the same old as you, but I observed that the old ones DILKAR7F8 have a 0.8 mm gap, and the new ones ILKAR7L11 have a 1.1 mm gap and I was afraid to go with the change because of that plus old ones were still looking fine at 80K miles. How they are working for you?
Also, I saw that the ILKAR7L11 are on the Mazda CX-5 with 2.0 Skyactive engine but still not sure that will be a good replacement.
So far so good. I have about 5000 miles on the plugs. I have even done some primary and secondary ignition tests before and after the plug change and there are no notable differences.
I did not know that there was a difference in gap. Honestly I did not check. I will post any problems I have in the future. I would like to make an authentic diagnosis video.
Thank you for your comments and question and thanks for watching!!
From this Mazda 3 forum post, it looks that ILKAR7L11 are good:
mazda3revolution.com/forums/2010-2013-mazda-3-engine-performance/103530-2012-mazda3i-skyactiv-spark-plugs.html#post1871626
See Sophie post #9:
"The original OEM spark plugs are either NGK DILKAR7F8 or DENSO FC20HPR8 with gap of 0.030 - 0.033 in
Mine had the NGK's, but when I went to look up replacement parts and also checked at the dealer, it seemed these have been superseded by NGK ILKAR7L11 and DENSO ZC20HPR11. Even NGKs website does not list the original part anymore. The dealer of course wants to sell them for $31 a piece, but you can find elsewhere for $12-$13
The new spark plugs are set to a larger gap of 0.0414-0.0452 in. (due to improved platinum ground terminal I think)
The plugs I got from the store were gapped to 0.041. It took me a while to confirm that this was the correct gap, because I was still seeing the original .030 - .033 spec. "
Interesting read, thanks for the information :)
Does anyone know the firing order for the 2012 3 skyactiv? I've had misfires on 1 and 4 recently and had my coil packs replaced by service techs to fix both times, so I am looking to replace the other 2, but it was long enough ago that I can't tell which coils are the new ones and which are old.
Firing order is 1-3-4-2. The number 1 cylinder is the one closest to the belts. Let me know if you have anymore questions. Thank you for your comment, and thanks for watching!!
Edit: The cylinders number increases in order, meaning that the number 1 cylinder is the one closest to the belts. Number 2 is the next cylinder. Number 3 is the one after that, and the 4th cylinder is the one furthest from the belts.
Enrique Osorio Super helpful, thanks!
life saver....name brand of the spark plug wrench pls...thank you
www.ebay.com/itm/273447165786
Here is the link to one I have, but any 6 point 14mm spark plugs socket will do the trick. Thank you for your question and thanks for watching!!
Trying to source a set of plus for my sister's skyactive 3. I don't want to pay dealer price, does anyone have a part number I can find at a local auto parts store like advance or autozone?
The NGK plugs I used in the video I bought at AutoZone.
NGK Part Number:ILKAR7L11
Alternate Part Number: 94124
Link below to the part number in the video.
ua-cam.com/video/cxU3v4mTu40/v-deo.html
Do you need to use the dialectic grease? Will anything happen if you don't?
The main purpose of dielectric grease is to prevent the spark from arcing to ground. In humid areas there is a chance that moisture could accumulate in the small space between the spark plug porcelain and the rubber of the boot on the ignition coil. This can create a path where the spark can escape. That is the simplified reason to why dielectric grease is important.
To dive into this a little deeper, the reason the current flowing through the ignition coil is able to "jump the gap" of the spark plug is due to the incredibly high voltage the ignition coil is capable of producing. More importantly the electric field strength is very high between the sharp points of the spark plug gap. The high strength electric field ionizes the gases within the strong electric field which creates a low resistance path which results in the visible spark. To maintain the high strength electric field there can be no other paths to ground that are comparable in impedance otherwise there will be energy wasted in supplying current to that parallel path. This parasitic path can be created through a microscopic air or moisture path found within the minuscule gap between the rubber boot and the spark-plug porcelain. Dielectric grease will ensure that any path will have such a high impedance, that it will have little to no effect on the electric field strength, thus no wasted energy. There were some oversimplifications in this explanation as well but this explains it a bit better.
The dielectric grease is not absolutely necessary. I admit that there are times where I have not used. For longer lived ignition coils and spark-plugs, use the dielectric grease. It costs a few dollars for a tube and will last you years. Additionally it acts as a lubricant that makes it easier to install and remove (usually years later) the ignition coil.
What is the exact socket you used?
It is a 3/8" drive 14 mm 6 point magnetic spark plug socket. Here is a similar link from eBay.
www.ebay.com/itm/CTA-MANUFACTURING-Spark-Plug-Socket-14mm-x-6Pt-x-10-w-Magnet-CM2394-/112338197284?hash=item1a27e0db24
I wish I had seen this earlier :'( Mazda charged me $250 to have it done at the dealership
Sorry about that. I used to work at dealerships and they really should be call stealerships. Nothing but scum work there. I am ashamed to say that I was not clean either and am very happy to be out of that career. Thank you for your comment and thank you for watching.
Wd 40 will 100 percent degrade the rubber in your pins letting moisture in
Never use Anti-seize for Ngk plugs
Agreed! It was my mistake. We shall see how it negatively affects my car since this Mazda is my daily driver. Thank you for pointing out my error, my goal is to provide accurate information.
Why? Is that specific to NGK only? What about OEM plugs?
@@serge_sa That is specific to NGK only. They have a corrosive resistance finish so no need. U can also over torque with anti-sieze
Easy. Just did it myself
Is there anyway I could mess up my car from doing this incorrectly?
YES!! If you have incorrect tools or if you are unfamiliar with how much pressure or tension to place on different components, there is a chance you could damage something.
The biggest things I could see going wrong is using an incorrect tool for the spark plug and breaking the spark plug. Extracting a broken spark plug can be a very difficult thing to do.
Another really bad thing would be inserting the spark plugs at an angle , damaging the threads on the cylinder head, which is a costly mistake.
If you drop something into the cylinder while the spark plug is out and you are unable to retrieve the object, or worse start the car with the object in the cylinder, there could be catastrophic engine damage.
In reality these are risks that mechanics encounter everyday and even professionals with years of experience occasionally get it wrong. Honestly, there are so many ways things could go wrong but don't be too discouraged. The process is easy and with a little patience, the right tools and EXTREME attention to detail, you can accomplish this.
There’s only one way, you mess up the threads, either the spark plug threads or the cylinder threads.
1. Over tightened and you’ll probably strip the cylinder threads or break the spark plug metal shell threads which will now be stuck in the engine but you’d really have to be trying, it would take A LOT of force and two hands to do that. So not really likely to happen.
2. Under tightened and overtime they will get loose and they’ll blow out of the engine taking the threads with it. unless your car has coil on plugs that bolts to the valve cover. This will prevent the spark plug from blowing out because the coil will stop it and you’d get a misfire alerting you but if they’re spark plug wires that just clips in, they will blow out and the damage will be done without warning. More likely to happen if you’re doing this by hand and without a torque wrench like you should be using when doing this.
3. Cross thread the plugs and you destroy the threads in the cylinder. Aluminum is weaker than steel, spark plugs are made from steel, most engines are aluminum. Steel will win and strip your threads.
much easier to get to than my honda fit haha
Okay so I know that the video was 2 years old but I think that you should of told people that they have to gap they're plugs before you put them on. At least that's what I was told anyways from auto zone and he pulled up on the computer that there supposed to be gaped at .051 on one of those gaping tools that you have to buy.
As the car ages, that cosmetic cover's underside insulation will continually disintegrate and drop dust and microfiber particles all over the block underneath, and you'll find it collecting where you would never want it. Also hazardous to your lungs. If you ever work on it yourself or bring it in, it's a good idea to vacuum or damp wipe around the oil cap, dipstick and spark plug tubes. And if you bring it to a mechanic, remove the cover and do the cleaning before you bring it in. They won't clean, and that shit will get inside the engine.
Never use antisieze on spark plugs. A little PB Blaster before hand will work just fine. If you change spark plugs at recommended intervals you won't have a problem.
What would be the logic behind 'never use antisieze on spark plugs' seems to make a lot of sense to me. Trying to understand the downside of doing this.
I guess my biggest problem with it is that it is like powdered metal shavings in a grease. Do you really want that leaking down your threads and going through your engine? It can also cause the threads to strip because when you torque the Spark Plug it makes the threads slippery and it will take more pressure against the threads to get to the proper torque. Not that I agree on that, I have never had a problem using it on lug nuts but there are people that will disagree with using it for that.
@@toyminator24 thanks for the insight!
@@glennrudolph6058 NGK specify do not use antisieze because it leads to inaccurate torquing. They narrow down the uncertainties for you by adding corrosion resistant plating. ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs
@@toyminator24 what is the logic in not using bulb grease on spark plugs??? It's to preserve the life of the spark plug, which is pretty cheap to replace... But it also prevents water from entering the plug and creating rust.
0:49