How to Replace Belt Tensioner in 3 Minutes - Mazda 3 2012
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- How to replace the belt tensioner pulley in a 2012 Mazda 3 2.0L. This can be applied to most cars - tensioner design is slightly different but fundamentally the same.
My Mazda 3 is at 80,000 miles, and the drive belts looked in good shape - no fraying, cracks, or irregularities. There is a bit of idle noise that does not go away when water is applied to the belt, which indicates tensioner pulley bearing degradation. After removing the belt from the tensioner and spinning the pulley, you can hear grinding, and the pulley has lots of play - as predicted, time to replace.
I bought a new pulley from Autozone, unfortunately it is plastic and the OEM one was metal, but it fit perfectly and the bearing was smooth and without play.
Tools & Items needed for the job:
-1.5' Torque wrench w/ 14mm socket amzn.to/2jriSrL
-New Pulley amzn.to/2rkTmbc
-Recommend a 14mm box wrench for better tool clearance - my torque wrench was wide enough that I had to remove a belt clip and shove my coolant line out of the way; would not have had to do this with a box wrench
Camera: Nikon D7000 amzn.to/2rgKRPw
Lens: AF-S Nikkor 35mm f/1.8G amzn.to/2wasYGD
Tripod: Manfrotto beFree Live Fluid Head amzn.to/2FGBywo
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Oliver Porter, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Oliver Porter assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. I recommend safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Oliver Porter, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Oliver Porter.
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I just have to comment on your good character. You made this video to help people and have been replying to comments for years. I came here looking for a fix, got an easy solution, and feel a little bit better about the people in this increasingly complicated world. Good on ya.
Thanks for watching and for your kind words, best wishes for the new year.
Thank you so much . It is great to know that it is a left hand thread on the bolt as I might have broken it otherwise . Guys like you save us ordinary folk a lot of time and money .
Thanks for watching! Glad it helped! Have a good one and stay safe.
Excellent video, great instruction. Really helped me replace this myself.
Thanks for watching, glad it helped!
Saved me an hour trying to figure this out
Thanks for watching! Glad it helped.
Left hand thread! Thanks for sharing. My son has a 2.3 making a little noise and something that I've committed to memory now.
Thanks for watching! Yes, left hand thread. Hope you are able to fix it easily. The low quality replacement that I bought from Autozone still seems OK...metal one is probably best.
@@OliverPorter92 I haven't started yet. Could be a lot of things....timing chain, tensioner, could be a freaken mouse Lol. Btw I have a Mercedes SL AMG w/"some" plastic pulleys. You'd think for $150,000 Hahahhaaa what are they saving weight :)
Fantastic video thank you! Just did this myself
I think this is happening to my Mazda too. Going to try it out, thanks!
Thanks for watching! Hope it helps.
That must be a GX motor. I own a 2012 mazda 3 skyactiv motor and the tensioner is a diffrent design. There is a big bolt head that you place a short socket 17mm on it and when apllying pressure counter clockwise it moves the entire tensioner assembly to install the belt. 145,000kms.....belt dissapered. Tensionner needs replaced. We own two of them same year and both have had the same issue around similiar kilometers. So awkward to work around that area when placing the belt on the crank pulley and you need a long arm on the socket wrench. I found it best to work behind the motor to reach that tensioner bolt. The only socket I needed 17mm was missing from my kit. So I managed using a adjustable wrench and a pair of vicegrips attached to the adjustable wrench as an extenstion and for leverage. It worked beautifully.
Sorry for the late response but yes, Skyactiv belts are different. Happy New Year!
This is so great. I don’t need to replace mine, but Thank you so much for making this. Now I know how to do it. Never knew it was so blooming easy. Can you also go off of any wear on the belt as an indicator of needing replacement? Or only by noise or mileage?
Thanks for watching, and glad it helped! I do not know if the belt itelf will indicate pulley wear - sound for me is the best indicator.
Thanks for video. Why you did not tight the bolt afrer new pulley?
I did, I just left that out of the video, sorry if this caused any confusion.
@@OliverPorter92 No confusion. I changed my pulley today. My car has z6 engine (BL). My pulley bolt is right helix. So, to loosen, I have to turn counter clockwise. Thanks again for sharing.
Wondering Why are you using a torque wrench to break bolts
Not supposed to...no excuse. Now have a 14mm dedicated wrench :)
Thank you Oliver
Thanks for watching hope it helped
Hello Oliver, is your 2012 Mazda 3 a skyactiv version? I need to replace the alternator pulley also, but not sure which part to get
Hi it is not a skyactiv. It is 2.0 vin code ‘G’
@@OliverPorter92 interesting. I thought all 2.0L from 2012 and 2013 were skyactiv. I'll keep digging, thank you.
Is this a common thing in this Mazda 3? i’m getting a noise from that region
is it be a better to replace the entire auto-tensioner assembly? (more expensive way). The spring that keeps the tension with the belt eventually wears out?
Thanks for watching! Good question, it is a matter of choice. My tensioner was fine, but there is nothing wrong with replacing the whole assembly, such as one of these: amzn.to/34N88Kb
DON'T EVER use your torque wrench for loosening up bolts or anything else but for torquing bolts or nuts! You'll fuk up the calibraton of your torque wrench!
Muy buena observación.
How much km you need replaced this. I have change on my mazda 6 2008 only the belt but I have 60,000 km I have check this is ok not problem like you
Thanks for watching! I changed this when it began to make noise. That was 75,000 miles or 120K km.
Nice video. Thanks.
I'm having some squealing noise when I first start my car. Assuming the tension is ok on the belt, would the pully possibly be causing this problem? Also, I have a 99 German spec 323. I'm not sure if it's a similar setup as a 3.
Sorry for late reply and thanks for watching, not sure on the 99 323. If the tension is fine, yes, check the pulley.
yeah thanks a lot, man. you probably saved me about 200 bucks!
No problem happy to help thanks for watching!
You’re a boss
Thanks for watching, glad it helped!
Es lo mismo en el 2010 ?
Any chance you have the video of what it sounded like before you changed it
Thanks for watching! Unfortunately, I do not, but it was a raspy, high-pitched, louder sound. Now, I barely hear the car at idle. Hope this helps!
I have changed mine with the same part in the video for Mazda 3 2006 2.0. And it now smells like something is burning. Any ideas on what it might be?
Thanks for watching! Not sure about the smell. Mine is working fine, it has been over 15,000 miles. That being said, since I replaced with plastic, I don't expect it to last the 75,000 miles that the OEM metal one lasted. Maybe the smell is coming from a worn belt, but not sure. Hope it works out.
Thanks for the reply! Your video definitely made it a lot easier to install, my belt fell off and had to find a diagram to install.
thank you for that, what is the torque settings for it?
Thanks for watching, sorry for delay. There is no available manual torque; I remember setting the screw around 30 ft-lb if I can recall, close to hand-tight.
Doesnt matter what it is, using a torque wrench to back off a tensioner, or any bolts for that matter, kills calibration. NEVER use a torque wrench to loosen a bolt or, a tensioner, that's just plain stupid even for a backyard hack like this.
You replaced a metal pulley, with what looks to be a plastic one. How is it working out for you so far?
Great question. Like I mentioned in the description, I wish it were metal. So far no problems, but I doubt it will be as good. Note to self find a bit-more-expensive metal part for durability. So far though 15,000 miles on it and can't complain yet.
Oliver Porter thank you for responding.
why would tensioner be leaking?
What would you describe the sound that notified you? Did it get louder then you revved the engine, I am thinking that is the problems I having right now.
Hi, thanks for watching. I decided to replace based on mileage more than noise. The noise was high-pitched, almost like running water, but it was not as noticeable as many other similar videos on here. I had about 80,000 miles at the time. Hope this helps.
I'm doing this exact repair today, and immediately ran into trouble - the head of the bolt holding the pulley is totally stripped round. I'm confident I can get it out anyway, but want to replace the bolt as well. Any chance anyone can help me find the specs on the bolt needed? Can't find it anywhere.
bring that bolt to your local Ace hardware store. they will help you find the exact bolt grade 8 for cars specifically.
Does the belt tension move back into place as you as you tighten it
Hi, Thanks for watching! As you release the 14mm tool on the pulley, the tension should increase and the pulley should grip the belt. Hope this helps, good luck!
Would this be the same process for a 2008 Mazda 3 sedan? Thanks!
Hi, Thanks for watching! Yes, this process would be the same on the 2008 Mazda 3, diagram is the same: www.realmazdaparts.com/auto-parts/2008/mazda/3/i-trim/2-0l-l4-gas-engine/maintenance-and-lubrication-cat/belts-and-pulleys-scat
@@OliverPorter92 hey man, cheers! Appreciate you finding that diagram. Wish you all the best!
@@efge Anytime, thanks, hope the job goes well.
Oliver Porter has
Is this the same size engine as a 2010 Mazda 3?
Yes, should be the same as long as it is not a MazdaSpeed.
Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks labour alone was quoted $190 to replace belt and tensioner :-( only difference I have a 2011 mazda 2
Thanks for watching hope it helped!
The video title is "Replace Belt Tensioner", it should be "Replace Belt Tensioner Pulley" as you do only the pulley!
Lot more room on the side there than my 2.5. I am not a fan of having to jack up the car and remove a wheel plus access panels to change a belt...
Thanks! Mine is being pretty noisy, just ordered the same pulley as you did for my 2011 mazda 3. Here is the link if anyone is looking for it. It's only $15.00 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C0WOXY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Awesome! Glad you were able to replace. I don't like that my new one is plastic though, I doubt it will last too long (the OEM is metal)
Maybe you can just swap out the bearings I’m working on this soon let you know how it goes
and you did this why mate, got a 2011 Mazda 3 thats been chirping while AC is on and driving over 40mph
mine too. how did you fix it?
Froilan Luigi Picard ac compressor, parts geek .com for cheap simple install at a local Mazda dealership
I’m going to this tomorrow on my sister’s car, looks easy
Thanks for watching! Awesome, good luck on the job. This one was pretty fast.
Was noise like this? drive.google.com/file/d/1CWBgpn0OQdYNg9KeC-GaWYCnYYTzp_kl/view?usp=drivesdk
Title is misleading. You replaced the pulley, not the tensioner.
Hey what torque spec did you use when tightening the 14mm bolt back on? Thanks
Great question, thanks for watching/asking! My shop manual does not have a number for that bolt, I think it assumes that people would just replace the auto-tensioner as a unit. The unit is more expensive than the pulley (around $100 vs