Fish Breeding - fungus treatment options for eggs
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2024
- A quick look at three options for fish egg treatment, and a brief description of the new calculator tool I put up for it. I haven't seen anything like this around anywhere, so I figured I'd share it out for anyone who might find it useful.
It helps to calculate dosing for methylene blue, hydrogen peroxide, and povidone-iodine egg treatments.
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I know I'm coming to the party late but thank you for this information and creating a space for others to share their experiences and ask questions. We all obviously love our hobbies. And then there are those of us who want to breed... There just isn't enough good info out there. This helps a lot. Thank you.
Fantastic calculator!!!!
That's really handy thanks for the video.
Hi great info,
Is your calculator up and running still?
Regards Duzzy🇦🇺
update: i have used H2O2, 2ml/gallon on my cherry barb and neon fry, works great keeping eggs from fungus, and fry from fungus. I also use a combo, 2ml H2o2 per gallon PLUS 1 drop of MethBlue in the same gallon, this seems even better. your video had the info i needed, much appreciated.
do you add the h2o2 every day? does your bio filter take a hit from it and get ammonia spikes? do you add the meth blue just once?
@@sirbreakemstuff I do a water change every day for unhatched eggs, the water comes from using a fresh one gallon of established fish tank water, 3ml of h202 per gallon. I dont use the whole gallon, but that's the way I do it. After hatching, I stop h202, no reason
Can you use this to treat fry fugus?
Will API melafix treat this
With the way you explain it, you don't need that online calculator. Thanks for the tips. However, I used the suggested 3ml per gallon of hydrogen peroxide and that boiled all the eggs. I would be very careful.
What is the concentration of the Methylene blue? ( I mean how is the %)... And shall I use the methylene bye only one time before the eggs hatch?
Where do I find this caculaotr
please share purchase link
I am bummed. I have a clutch of goldfish eggs that were crystal clear up to date three. They are in a small 750ml fry tank with air stone. They have developed a fuzz over them. I change the water once a day, with main tank water. I am trying to save them. I put two drops of malachite green in for two water changes. Today is day 4 from fertilizing. I put a capful of peroxide 3% at the water change today. The fuzz is not expanding but it is not reducing either. I remain hopeful that they hatch ok in a few more days. But from my online surfing, it is probably false hope. 😔
I have not tried raising goldfish eggs before, so when conditions presented I got excited about giving it a go.
It is looking like this part of the hobby is 99% failure 1% success.
Hanging on to that 1% !
I use meth blue. 1 drop in large specimen container.
alternative can i use AQUADENE 4 instead of Methylene Blue ???
So with a 10 gallon tank using Methylene Blue......I should use 1/10 of 99 drops?
@mischiefandfins what's your website with the calculator?
thanks for the info!
my flower horn pair breed 2 times but no fertilized eggs and 2 times breeding not good what is the basic problum tell me please
Hi..I'm from Indonesia and breed danio margaritatus.
Usefull information and thanks for share. hope my problem solve.
Put aquarium video
So, Im easily confused by the calculator so Can you just tell me how much hydrogen Peroxide to use daily to prevent egg fungus in a 30 gal aquarium? Thanks
You would never want to do that if you have anything other than the eggs in that 30 gallon... I spot treat with 3% h2o2 and some love it while others are very sensitive to it. Same goes with plants. Even after just spot treating I have to do a 25-40% water change and check the state of the sensitive disk to see if another 25% change is needed.
Hey, good day! did you find a solution a functional solution about the methylene blue and angel fish eggs?
Yeah, i did a later video update. Looks like my issue was some sort of protazoa in my water supply. I guess peroxide was helping to fight it off, while the methylene blue wasn't.
Treating the eggs with metro within 12 hours of laying solved my weird issues.
Try alder cones?
I have some cory eggs, this wasnt intended. However i'd like to see some hatch! Today is day three since the eggs have been laid and i'm noticing maybe some fungus on some of the eggs, should i remove the eggs that have fungus?
Fungus generally spreads pretty quickly. If you can remove the fungus covered ones you'll be more likely to save the rest.
Most people recommend moving the eggs to another tank and putting them in a breeding net with a bubbler under it to help fight fungus, but just getting a bubbler near them in the tank helps an enormous amount too.
Good luck!
finding a hard time to acquire hydrogen peroxide, is there a way to make the m-blue work better? probably not
It seemed that my issue was that my water has some sort of protozoa in it that the methylene blue doesn't appear to kill. I don't know if it eats holes in the eggs causing more methylene defects, or if it's just deforming the babies directly, but treating the eggs with metronidazole right after being laid has allowed me to use methylene blue regularly again without the swimming issues.
Not sure that's a great solution, as metro isn't readily available in most places in the world, but it did work well for my direct issues.
@@MischiefandFins thanks for the quick reply and the info. i will give it a try. i have bred fish before, but stopped after the fry kept dying off.....so this may do the trick. thanks.
any chance you can repost a link to the calculator? the current link is dead. thanks
Yeah, sorry, site went down with the change over in name and I haven't had the time to finish up the new one. I'll try to get it up this week so I can put the calculators back
@@MischiefandFins wow, wasnt expecting a reply, thanks dude. much appreciated!
Are the homepage down?
Morten Månsson yeah, I'm reworking it for the feed store additions we're doing. It should be back up by Wednesday
How can I treat fungi and bacteria in my catfish fries water storage tank I need help.
My fries keep dropping from 7 days what do I do.
Hello, have you gotten a solution to this yet?
Hi there. Thanks for the video! I have a discus eggs laid and on the next day they turned all white. The parents are proved for sure, but later I found there was some ammonia spikes in the water. Do you think that can cause eggs turning white? Thank you!
In my experience, the things that cause all eggs to turn white really quickly are, in order of likelihood:
1) Distracted male. Mine forget to fertilize pretty often if anything is happening in the room, including me just walking through
2) Protazoa in the tank (or in the parents) that feed on the eggs, this can be tested by dosing the tank with metro after the parents finish laying. There's not much danger in it, if used once as directed. I apparently have something in my water that eats my eggs, and was the cause of my weird issues that I mentioned in this video
3) water that is way too hard. Some months our local water comes from under ground, and some months it comes from the lake. The city well is harder water, and it kills more eggs. If you haven't done a gH test yet I'd recommend it, to remove that as a possibility
Those are really the only things that I experience that causes it, but if you've got ammonia spikes it could be stressing the parents enough to cause no fertilization or ignoring the eggs. I'd definitely work on figuring that out before trying to breed, breeding is stressful for them and any water problems will make it worse.
Hope that sort of answers your question
Mischief and Fins Hi. Thanks for your answer. I’m using RO water, PH 6.8, KH 2, GH4, 80ppm, conductivity 180 I’ve been looking closely while the female laid the eggs and the male went over them strait away. I’m doing 50% WC daily, trying to get rid of those ammonia spikes. Will add methylene blue next time to see what will happen. Thanks.
@Todor Todorov It's important to remember that filter bacteria don't eat ammonia, they eat the KH in your water, the ammonia conversion is a just byproduct of that. If you are using RO water that tests as KH 2, then it's somewhere between 1 and 2, which means you have enough KH In your water to process 2 ppm of ammonia once before it is depleted. As an example, 2 large discus (250 grams each) fed 1% of their body weight in food per day will produce 1.5 grams of ammonia each day. In a 50 gallon tank this would be 0.33 ppm per hour, so the KH would be depleted in about 6 hours. After that point no more ammonia can be converted. So for a 50 gallon tank, you'd need a minimum of 5 KH every day to keep up with ammonia production.
This is why people who use 100% RO will see random ammonia spikes or PH crashes.
I mix my RO at about 60% RO 40% tap water to avoid this. People who do really frequent water changes sometimes go as low as 10% tap, but it's important to always keep the KH in mind.
Edit: I'm a bit off in the calculations here, which are all just back on the hand quick generalizations, probably off by about 25%, but it doesn't really matter to the general point
Where do I find that dosage calculator? Do you have a website?
Sorry, the site died with a php update that broke a bunch of things and I haven't had time to put a new one up yet.
You can find other calculators online with Google, I just didn't like that they didn't allow changing strength or measurement
@@MischiefandFins Hi there, did you solved the problem with the availability of your online calculator? I need it desperately !
i want to try this with angelfish pair, problem is i want them to parent raise, can i do a dose of hydrogen peroxide in the breeding tank with parents in?
I haven't seen any long term studies on the use of peroxide in an active tank, so I can't really speak to the safety of it.
While your breeders might tolerate 70-100 ppm of peroxide with no ill effect, hydrogen peroxide screws with several of the internal oxidation functions of the beneficial bacteria in your filter, and I have no idea how much is needed to cause a temporary filter crash.
I have no direct experience with it, either, so all I can really say is "my gut says it's a bad idea"
@@MischiefandFins thanks man, much apreciated
@@gahatcherys1065 not a good idea. I've had a lot of issues just spot treating with peroxide. Some animals love the bubbles for the up to 24 hours they're active. While others get very very stressed by it and water changes are the only way I've found to user it safely in an established tank.
I'm trying to do HP on my eggs. Am I right in saying that 25 ppm is equal to. 0.025 ml/l. So I had 10 liters of water and added in 0.25ml of HP
You have to remember to take the peroxide strength into account.
Most are 3% or 5%, so you have to multiply by 33.3 or 20, respectively, to get your dose. It should say the strength in the bottle.
@@MischiefandFinsokay so 0.25ml x 33.3 is 8.325 ml? So 8.325ml HP for 10 liters of water. To get a PPM of 25
@@bakerd773 yeah, as long as you're doing 25ppm on purpose.
I assume you're doing a lower dose to just leave in the tank?
@@MischiefandFins Yeah. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for the help with the calculations
How con you tell if you betta eggs are moldy or rotten and how do I make the Male betta fish to keep taking care of the eggs because my Male bred fine but after he didn't continue shaking the bubble nest around the eggs so the fell to the floor and it looks like there rotten
Link down?
yeah, sorry, been working on a site redesign and life got in the way. I'll post an update when I have it back up, along with some new features and quick calculators.
@@MischiefandFins thanks. Looking forward to it.
My discus eggs are getting fungus often. So to my understanding I should pull my eggs and give them a hydrogen peroxide bath at 250ppm for 15 minutes every 12 hours? One gallon jug would be 33ml. ?
Yeah, if your peroxide is 3% then 32-33 ml will do it for a gallon, though I have no idea how the parents will react to you taking the eggs out every 12 hours. I don't have to worry about giving the eggs back after treatment. Once a day was used pretty successfully in several studies, so that might be a good start to manage parent stress
Toxicity rises with temperature, so if your hatch rate seems low you can try lowering the dose to 20ml/gallon of you keep them above 83F
@@MischiefandFins can you do this when they're wrigglers? Cause I had mine that hatched and turned into wrigglers then all died of fungus
@@bakerd773 There are a lot of reasons that wrigglers can end up not having the immune response necessary to fight off fungus.
I have some sort of protozoa issue with my water that causes things like that occasionally, and a quick treatment with metronidazole after the eggs are fertilized seems to stop it, so that might be something to look at.
I wouldn't use peroxide on wrigglers, but a low dose methylene blue is safe to use in the tank to help them fight it off. You just want to keep a close eye on ammonia levels if you use it, as it can affect your filter bacteria.
i dont remove the eggs as u can see i need a solution for fungus as i let the parents take care of them
If fungus is still an issue even though the parents are taking care of them, then either the parents aren't taking care of them well (which is a frequent problem) or you've got some problems with your water.
You can try pulling the eggs for a quick treatment with hydrogen peroxide and then putting them back, but that might result in the parents eating them.
And as I said in a later video, I had some issue with a protozoa making eggs go bad (which caused a lot of fungus), so I've started dosing the tanks with metronidazole one time as soon as I see the eggs. Less eggs go bad, so the parents pay more attention, so there's less fungus. But I can't say whether you have a problem with that or not, so I don't know if that would be helpful, but it's cheap to try.
@@MischiefandFins thank u
I used the Hydrogen peroxide but it just melted my baby eggs. My opinion I don’t recommend it.
Same here, it made all my eggs explode like volcanos. I think 3ml per gallon is way too much, I just lost 60 blue zair. I will try one more time at 1ml per gallon and not 3 ml.
I've had the exact same experience. Next time in going to just do a couple drops per 10 oz's wait a 5-10 minutes and do a 50% water change with water from the tank they were laid in. I've also read from other professional breeders that work for Aquarium CoOp doing that one time a day for 3 days, adding a shrimp to eat the fungus before it becomes an issue and adding catappa/ Indian almond leaves also contain antibacterial properties and will keep your shrimp fed as a bonus(as long as its pre soaked). So using low dose baths of 3% HP, with water changes, adding shrimp to eat any developing fungus(who won't eat the eggs) and the catappa Indian leaves is a preferred method for certain egg raising. These are methods for eggs that hatch in 7 days or less. I don't know if they'll work for eggs that take 10 days-2 or 3 weeks. Do a lot of research and keep trying.
UA-cam refuses to play your video for me. But will play any other video I click on! Ughhh wtf is this.
Yeah, I've had that happen before. Generally fixes itself in a day. I think it's probably regional maintenance, but Google has just been breaking things lately, so who knows
Still doing it grrr.
Wait a minute your meth blue don’t work in soft water that’s a complete contradiction fungus won’t hardy grow in soft water and meth blue works even better in it . Your water currant is to high or your male is not doing the job or just genetics imo
Hey, thanks for commenting!
1) I didn't say the methylene blue doesn't work on fungus in soft water, I said "I've had issues with no swimming" and that's because methylene blue causes developmental defects. I suspect that the hard water hardening of the eggs had previously been preventing it, but I honestly don't care enough to experiment with it to find out, because other things have worked around the problem.
2) fungus grows with no issue at all in soft water. Yes, hard water with something like calcium sulfate causes huge increases in fungal growth, but soft water is not a major hurdle for fungal growth. In studies, water with 0 mg/L water hardness saw fungal growth on seeds in 35 hours, compared to 31 hours in 150 mg/L hardness.
3) maybe you're confusing pH and dGH? Low pH is widely assumed to restrict fungal growth, but it doesn't have a huge impact until about a pH of 4, most fungus will grow easily in a very slightly acidic environment, just slower. So low pH low dGH will result in rather slow fungal growth, but it doesn't "hardly grow"
4) You don't know a thing about my setup, so your "opinion" doesn't mean a thing.
5) * current. Currant is a fruit.
Dave Mathis No, what he says is true, I began very recently with meth by kordon’s and every batch dies, I have always used soft (6.0)water to hatch the eggs but now with this kordon’s meth it’s simply impossible. I will buy again the cheap methylene blue that I used before.
AcuariosHabitables last year I barely had just two very little batches of Ángel fish fry after using Kordon’s met or my cheap met, the same 99% of the batches dead, Pryor to that precisely on 2017 all my batches did survive very strongly, for now I think maybe it’s a pharmaceutical thing a change of directive and a change of methylene’s formula, maybe they don’t want us reproducing fish at home. Now, what I have seen is this, Angels (parents) do their work with the eggs just perfect, they got alive and begin to swim around but parents just eat them all because their own jealousy from each other, so I have seen that there’s no genetic problem related to. About using met blue is this, using it into the batches water for any amount of time it kills all of them, if somebody has more info about it please share, I will place this comment into my channel also, good day to all!