Really excellent series of videos, great photography and calm! Not like the US clips where they spend 10 mins telling us what they’re going to do, then 2 mins do it, then spend 10mins telling us what they did! Thanks and keep up the good work!
Mate, your videos are awesome. Just some little info. The bubbles when you first bled that caliper were air coming in through the nipple's thread because you opened it a bit too much. It took me over a litre of fluid on a previous car to work out that. Ha, ha
Brake oil is hygroscopic, and that is the main reason for it to be replaced. Shure, - some wear, tear and degradation does occur during years of use, but the possible presence of water in the break fluid is the real killer. Water in brake fluid + high brake temperature = steam bubbles in the brake system. - Anyway, your presentation of your repair and service of Volvo cars are spotless perfect. From a Volvo owner since 1986. In a Volvo, the star sits behind the steering wheel :-).
Never used a power bleeder. I use a rubber pipe with a non return valve, they work OK. I saw a video of rear pads change with EPB. The guy used a battery to unwind the brake motors, easier than dismantling it.
Mine is on a 58 plate, (making it 2009 January) and it has 191000 miles on it! No smoke, no excessive oil consumption and very quiet. Excellent engines.
Thanks for presenting the procedure. Really like how it is step by step. Wonder presentation..and very direct without nla...bla..bla.. Looking forward to viewing more of your videos on Volvo repairs and maintenance. A toast of beer to you
Your videos are THE BEST! Thank you for taking the time to make these and share them. I have a 2010 S80 T6 AWD (my fifth Volvo) and it's mechanically identical to your XC70. Your videos have given me the knowledge and the confidence to do a lot of regular maintenance myself. I especially like your calm nature as you do these procedures; your voice makes me sleepy. Lol. Thanks, again!
I love how this guy is taking care about his volvo. At same time im wondering how the car engine is so clean? I really want to see a video about engine cleaning.
Great video. I watched your video on the rear brakes replacment and i learned to change them myself. I drive a volvo v70 mk3 2.4d geartronic and I would to see how to change the transmission fluid. Looking for to watching your videos in the future
This is great video. While necessary to video-record this method, I found I could bleed the FRONTS without removing the wheels....just raise the wheel truss you're working on about 3" so you can get under there to work on it. The rears?...those need to have the wheel removed because of where the bleed-nipple is located.
In the US everyone always does farther rear first and front last. It must work well either way . I changed my fluid at 60k miles and fluid was bright yellow just like the new brake fluid.
I usually stick a drill bit backwards in each bleeder when opening them to make sure I don't wring them off while loosening them. Sometimes rust gets in the threads making it hard to loosen.
It's a great product, but recently, after doing the checks for leaks, pumped it up to 15 psi, opened the first bleeder valve, when I heard a hissing sound, and saw brake fluid gushing onto the windshield area. The clear hose had ruptured, so I emailed Motive to suggest that they give a warning to periodically change the clear hose; unfortunately, they don't read emails. I could not move the car outside to hose it off, but with a bucket of soapy water I was able to clean in off without damaging the paint. The plastics were affected, but I think I can bring them back.
Your videos are magnificent. All of them. Thank you. I have a 2006 XC70 and a 2009 v70 and my simple question is: How do you remove the filter from the brake reservoir without damaging it? Mine seem to be in there very tight. Obviously this is so I can extract the old fluid with a turkey baster prior to the power bleed.
Thanks just confirmed what i though when the dealer wanted to do a flush on a 25k mile car. Waste of money. If I had driven 50k in the last 5 years. I would have justified it. But for as little as i drive. But it’s good to see the process for when it is necessary.
Very nice video well done one of the best video i have ever watched on UA-cam. I'm going to bleed my 2006 Mercedes Benz S500 I have installed brand new rotors and brake pads. And my wife car which is 2008 BMW 750 Li This car has ABS issue I did change rotors and pads but the ABS light does not go off. Dealers @ BMW want to charge $1500. for complete brake job. For this 2008 BMW 750Li The rotors and pads cost me $380 at auto parts I did purchased the brake bleeding tool but it the different vacuum brake bleeding. I like the one you have hope i can find one thanks for posting the video well done keep it up.
Quick question please .can manual bleeding (either gravity bleed or 2 person method ) be used instead of Motiv power tool (2011 Volvo XC-60 T6 .Thank you for your help. Great video - all your videos are the best I have encountered. Regards
nice job! to do the transmission flush do I need the same kind of bleeder? or no bleeder needed at all? looking forward to seeing more of your videos! especially the transmission flush😂 👌👍
I have a Volvo V40 and the brake fluid is also used by the hydraulic clutch so you need bleeding the slave cylinder clutch. But I didn't see that being done for your vehicle. Is not required in your model ?
and 14) al or all air from the system. Bleeding sequence 11 If the hydraulic system has only been partially disconnected and suitable precautions were taken to minimise fluid loss, it should only be necessary to bleed that part of the system (ie, the primary or secondary circuit). 12 If the complete system is to be bled, then it should be done in the following sequence: a) Front left-hand brake b) Front right-hand brake. c) Rear left-hand brake. d) Rear right-hand brake Bleeding This is from Haynes manual for xc90 and xc60, 2003-2013
Thanks for the video! Please send me the link for the Power Fist 10mm "flare nut" bit (time marker on the video = 2:46). I googled for it with no luck. What is it called ?
Hello. I have an XC 70 T6 wagon too. Thank you for these videos! It's so much easier when you can watch before you do one of these jobs. It's also good to see you have safe work habits. I've done brake fluid bleeds on 3 BMWs and a Mercedes Benz before and the advice from those companies was always to start at the wheel furthest from the brake fluid reservoir. You mention that Volvo told you to do it in exactly the reverse order. Do you know why they want to go in that order? I guess the theory is if you start furthest away first, you will drain the reservoir more completely of old fluid, but the more I think about it, I'm not sure that the order will effect the thoroughness of the flush.
I was always taught to start from the furthest wheel from the reservoir, and finish at the closest. This video is literally opposite. Which way is correct? Also, you should top up the reservoir BEFORE putting the pressure bleeder on
why not first bleed the 'farthest' wheel from the reservoir? Any chance those tiney air bubbles are leaking past the bleeder nipple threads? I'd say not since you are pressurizing from the top down. tho I seem to get lots of bubbles from suction type bleeders with loose bleed nipples too common.
That was a lot of air bubbles, maybe the hose wasn't tight enough over the bleeder ? You can see at 7:38 too much air is getting inside the hose even with the bleeder closed. Just undo the bleeder 1/2 or 1 turn, than should be enough. Also, you don't need to tighten down the bleeder too strong, just enough to be gently tight so you can undo it easily the next time. Otherwise, if it's tightened down too strong, it may get stuck from rust. By the way, brake fluid is easily washed off the floor with a simple garden hose.
I once used a power bleeder on an old Audi and it blew the brake fluid reservoir… those plastic housing can become brittle with age. I’ve been using MityVac since then as I felt it’s safer to pull than push the fluid.
Bleeding sequence that you showed: Front driver's side, front passenger's side, rear driver's side, rear passenger's side. Why? Does this apply to 2008 Volvo XC90 as well? Thanks for the video.
In your comment you notice a lot of air bubbles when opening the first bleed valve. Could this have been caused by the fact that, when you pressurized the system with the pump on the bleeder, not only the fluid form the bleeder is transported to the brake fluid reservoir of the car, but also a lot of airbubbles (they can even been seen in the hose form the bleeder to the reservoir)?
Yes, the air was in the connector hose when it was first hooked up. All this air has to be pushed through the brake line and expelled, until a solid stream of brake fluid comes out the caliper at the bleeder valve.
hello i wantto ask about coolant bleeding. i have changed my coolant but my coolant level drops every time. no leaks or gasket problem. how i can get rid of air. is it caused by coolant reservoir cap?
There is a special funnel you can buy that screws on top of the reservoir that you fill with coolant and keep filled with coolant why you run the car. Traditionally you turn the heat on, run the engine until the thermostat opens, usually 185*F. This will get any air pockets out
I wondered the same thing. I have an 04 XC70 that only acquired a few months ago. There does not seem to be a specific location to jack the car up. The jack points that the manual shows is vague. I've jacked it up a few ties and I'm just taking my best guess.
When using the scissors jack that comes with 04 XC70, there is a jack bar just under each front door. This jack system is only for changing a tire away from home. It lifts BOTH front and rear tire at the same time. When raising the car to work at home, I use a hydraulic floor jack (like shown in this video). You lift the unibody frame when jacking up the front. In the rear, you lift the frame bar that attaches to the lower spring end supporting the wheel. Place the jack where the frame presents a level, flat surface for the top of jack to contact squarely. You raise 1/4 of the car at a time....this gives maximum control and safety. As shown, after lifting, place a steel jackstand near to hydraulic jack as a backup in case hydraulic jack were to fail. It doesn't have to contact frame, but stand only close to that height.
Great Video! I have a Motive bleeder like that. I haven't checked yet but is the cap compatible with the XC? Also, I assume you removed the wheels so you can clearly show what you are doing. But in my other cars I don't usually remove the wheels to bleed the brakes.
@@volvosweden The XC70 P3 FRONTS can be bled by merely raising the wheel about 3" to get under there. The REARS I found required removing the wheels, because of where the bleeder-nipple is located.
Just found your channel... nice job. Now I can start working on my wife car! Do you think the air bubbles were a result of leak or just too much time between flushes?
This Power Bleeder tool introduced some air that was in the plastic filler hose when first connecting it to the reservoir. That air has to be completely worked through the system and ejected at the first caliper bled. If not, you end up with a "soft" brake pedal and unsafe braking power.
@@pbierre I really doubt that air was from the bleeder. You adding some air to reservoir but all air stays at highest point of reservoir and all fluid goes down. If your reservoir completely dry then air will enter into system.
Great video but I thought for break bleeding you are supposed to start from the caliper furthest from the master cylinder and then work to the closest one.
Really excellent series of videos, great photography and calm! Not like the US clips where they spend 10 mins telling us what they’re going to do, then 2 mins do it, then spend 10mins telling us what they did! Thanks and keep up the good work!
+Mark Hooper thx for your feedback. Will keep it in mind. More to come.
Wakakaka
Yes an american would probably use the ugga dugga gun
This must be the most well-maintained XC70 still out there!
Mate, your videos are awesome. Just some little info. The bubbles when you first bled that caliper were air coming in through the nipple's thread because you opened it a bit too much. It took me over a litre of fluid on a previous car to work out that. Ha, ha
Brake oil is hygroscopic, and that is the main reason for it to be replaced.
Shure, - some wear, tear and degradation does occur during years of use, but the possible presence of water in the break fluid is the real killer.
Water in brake fluid + high brake temperature = steam bubbles in the brake system.
-
Anyway, your presentation of your repair and service of Volvo cars are spotless perfect.
From a Volvo owner since 1986.
In a Volvo, the star sits behind the steering wheel :-).
Every video is so clear! Thank you! I see you always use original Volvo parts!
Nice video and explanation. The Motive bleeder is an excellent tool that makes this a one-person job. Thank you.
Your videos are spotless. Excellent english. Much appreciated
Never used a power bleeder. I use a rubber pipe with a non return valve, they work OK. I saw a video of rear pads change with EPB. The guy used a battery to unwind the brake motors, easier than dismantling it.
I like the methodical and clear explanation. I have a mityvac, just need the cap for the master cylinder.
Mine is on a 58 plate, (making it 2009 January) and it has 191000 miles on it! No smoke, no excessive oil consumption and very quiet. Excellent engines.
Thank you for your videos and all the effort you put into them super helpful
Once again, another excellent video. Many thanks.
Thanks for presenting the procedure.
Really like how it is step by step.
Wonder presentation..and very direct without nla...bla..bla..
Looking forward to viewing more of your videos on Volvo repairs and maintenance.
A toast of beer to you
Again another great video from this man
Your videos are THE BEST! Thank you for taking the time to make these and share them. I have a 2010 S80 T6 AWD (my fifth Volvo) and it's mechanically identical to your XC70. Your videos have given me the knowledge and the confidence to do a lot of regular maintenance myself. I especially like your calm nature as you do these procedures; your voice makes me sleepy. Lol. Thanks, again!
Thx. Regarding making you sleepy. I know that I will never be an actor. More videos to come. Angle gear, rear diff and Haldex AWD fluids.
+volvosweden Don't ever change the way you do these videos, it's perfect!
Really good videos, we see all of your videos from Spain. we have a volvo S80 AWD 205 hp
I drive a 2007 Volvo C30 2.0D and in my case I need to flush clutch as it's also operated with brake.
Great guide!
Great videos for Volvo. It's really helps to do the rep self.
Excellent and thorough video. Thank you.
I love how this guy is taking care about his volvo. At same time im wondering how the car engine is so clean? I really want to see a video about engine cleaning.
+Sufian Osman Will do the engine wash video. Thx!
+volvosweden thank you so much, i really appreciate that.
Thank you for this. I will do mine soon! Your video helps greatly!
Very nice video - thank you for making it!
Very good video! Going to do this to my S60R, Thank you!
Gr8 video! Superb expertise. (You've lost quite a bit of weight since last year!)
Very useful video. Well explained. Thanks!
So Great! Thanks! Always so helpful.
Thank you for the video. Very good.
I just had to look at this video again! Great!!
VERY EDUCATIVE .THANK YOU.
Great show mate, thanks.
Great video. I watched your video on the rear brakes replacment and i learned to change them myself. I drive a volvo v70 mk3 2.4d geartronic and I would to see how to change the transmission fluid. Looking for to watching your videos in the future
Will do the transmission, just not sure when.
Thank you.
Great episode, much appreciated
Perfect job! Very many thanks!
This is great video. While necessary to video-record this method, I found I could bleed the FRONTS without removing the wheels....just raise the wheel truss you're working on about 3" so you can get under there to work on it. The rears?...those need to have the wheel removed because of where the bleed-nipple is located.
In the US everyone always does farther rear first and front last. It must work well either way . I changed my fluid at 60k miles and fluid was bright yellow just like the new brake fluid.
Excellent job my friend.. Your car will last you many years..
Good tutorial. Thank's !
Thank you from Austria:-)
I usually flush my brakes intime with pad changes, always keeping fresh fluid in the system that way.
Спасибо! Отлично!
Yuri, I must change my old school always starting from far back right site wheel, spasiba !
I usually stick a drill bit backwards in each bleeder when opening them to make sure I don't wring them off while loosening them. Sometimes rust gets in the threads making it hard to loosen.
Thanks, good tutorial
Love your job
Great video👍🏼
Thanks for video
I also have a Volvo. S40 Turbo intercooler. Perfect car :)
Great video, but I think that type of bleeder may introduce air into the fluid and you might need to bleed again later. Thanks for your videos!
It's a great product, but recently, after doing the checks for leaks, pumped it up to 15 psi, opened the first bleeder valve, when I heard a hissing sound, and saw brake fluid gushing onto the windshield area. The clear hose had ruptured, so I emailed Motive to suggest that they give a warning to periodically change the clear hose; unfortunately, they don't read emails. I could not move the car outside to hose it off, but with a bucket of soapy water I was able to clean in off without damaging the paint. The plastics were affected, but I think I can bring them back.
Thanx its very good .
Great job ty
Your videos are magnificent. All of them. Thank you. I have a 2006 XC70 and a 2009 v70 and my simple question is: How do you remove the filter from the brake reservoir without damaging it? Mine seem to be in there very tight. Obviously this is so I can extract the old fluid with a turkey baster prior to the power bleed.
Thanks just confirmed what i though when the dealer wanted to do a flush on a 25k mile car. Waste of money. If I had driven 50k in the last 5 years. I would have justified it. But for as little as i drive. But it’s good to see the process for when it is necessary.
Very nice video well done one of the best video i have ever watched on UA-cam.
I'm going to bleed my 2006 Mercedes Benz S500 I have installed brand new rotors and brake pads. And my wife car which is 2008 BMW 750 Li This car has ABS issue I did change rotors and pads but the ABS light does not go off. Dealers @ BMW want to charge $1500. for complete brake job. For this 2008 BMW 750Li The rotors and pads cost me $380 at auto parts
I did purchased the brake bleeding tool but it the different vacuum brake bleeding. I like the one you have hope i can find one thanks for posting the video well done keep it up.
Glad my video helps others. Good luck
Quick question please .can manual bleeding (either gravity bleed or 2 person method ) be used instead of Motiv power tool (2011 Volvo XC-60 T6 .Thank you for your help. Great video - all your videos are the best I have encountered. Regards
cute bottles, I just bought vw bottles for my Jetta
nice job!
to do the transmission flush do I need the same kind of bleeder? or no bleeder needed at all?
looking forward to seeing more of your videos! especially the transmission flush😂
👌👍
I have a Volvo V40 and the brake fluid is also used by the hydraulic clutch so you need bleeding the slave cylinder clutch. But I didn't see that being done for your vehicle. Is not required in your model ?
How about ABS bleed with "old fluid" still in the ABS unit thank you
Did you change the grille logo or is that standard? because i got the volvo xc70 2008 v6 but i have the old logo :/
Maravilhoso... melhor que muitos mecânicos.
and 14)
al or all air from
the system.
Bleeding sequence
11 If the hydraulic system has only been partially disconnected and suitable precautions were taken to minimise fluid loss, it should only be necessary to bleed that part of the system (ie, the primary or secondary circuit).
12 If the complete system is to be bled, then it should be done in the following sequence:
a) Front left-hand brake
b) Front right-hand brake.
c) Rear left-hand brake.
d) Rear right-hand brake
Bleeding
This is from Haynes manual for xc90 and xc60, 2003-2013
Thanks for the video!
Please send me the link for the Power Fist 10mm "flare nut" bit (time marker on the video = 2:46). I googled for it with no luck. What is it called ?
Hello. I have an XC 70 T6 wagon too. Thank you for these videos! It's so much easier when you can watch before you do one of these jobs. It's also good to see you have safe work habits. I've done brake fluid bleeds on 3 BMWs and a Mercedes Benz before and the advice from those companies was always to start at the wheel furthest from the brake fluid reservoir. You mention that Volvo told you to do it in exactly the reverse order. Do you know why they want to go in that order? I guess the theory is if you start furthest away first, you will drain the reservoir more completely of old fluid, but the more I think about it, I'm not sure that the order will effect the thoroughness of the flush.
My wet chemistry lab protocol always teaches clean the shortest route and proceed
I got exactly those schools, now I must learn new, " never late to learn something new" thanks, spasiba to Yuri !!!
Yes; it was that MOTIVE PRODUCTS unit that was being advertised here. Free advertising on UA-cam. Great to see. that the label was always visible.
I was always taught to start from the furthest wheel from the reservoir, and finish at the closest.
This video is literally opposite.
Which way is correct?
Also, you should top up the reservoir BEFORE putting the pressure bleeder on
How can I replace transmission fluid from volco s40 2.4i, 2004 model?
Where do you buy that special tool to squirt out the brake liquid from the hoses' bleeder valve at 2:45?
why not first bleed the 'farthest' wheel from the reservoir? Any chance those tiney air bubbles are leaking past the bleeder nipple threads? I'd say not since you are pressurizing from the top down. tho I seem to get lots of bubbles from suction type bleeders with loose bleed nipples too common.
How can you know witch pressure the Xc70 or v70 need? Is it 10-15 PSI for all xc70 and v70?
The rotors and pads with the Volvo name on them are made in the Delphi factory.
next owner will be lucky to have your car
Now I wonder where that brake fluid cover goes if you drop it down into that opening ?
Is this the same way to do it on volvo 940
Why did you not bleed the ABS? I think the Vida program has the ABS bleeding
That was a lot of air bubbles, maybe the hose wasn't tight enough over the bleeder ? You can see at 7:38 too much air is getting inside the hose even with the bleeder closed. Just undo the bleeder 1/2 or 1 turn, than should be enough. Also, you don't need to tighten down the bleeder too strong, just enough to be gently tight so you can undo it easily the next time. Otherwise, if it's tightened down too strong, it may get stuck from rust. By the way, brake fluid is easily washed off the floor with a simple garden hose.
Any reason why you start on the front calippers ??
What size clear hose where did u get that
I once used a power bleeder on an old Audi and it blew the brake fluid reservoir… those plastic housing can become brittle with age. I’ve been using MityVac since then as I felt it’s safer to pull than push the fluid.
Thanks again for this interesting video! By the way, where to get the Motive Power Bleeder!
I ordered mine as a kit from IPD-USA.
Sequence for a 2001 V70 RHD please?,so many differing opinions on the net!
Bleeding sequence that you showed: Front driver's side, front passenger's side, rear driver's side, rear passenger's side. Why? Does this apply to 2008 Volvo XC90 as well? Thanks for the video.
+John Agonoy This is from Volvo official instructions. I am not sure about Xc90
In your comment you notice a lot of air bubbles when opening the first bleed valve. Could this have been caused by the fact that, when you pressurized the system with the pump on the bleeder, not only the fluid form the bleeder is transported to the brake fluid reservoir of the car, but also a lot of airbubbles (they can even been seen in the hose form the bleeder to the reservoir)?
Could be. I thought about this possibility. But Unmade sure to wait until no more bubbles were present.
Yes, the air was in the connector hose when it was first hooked up. All this air has to be pushed through the brake line and expelled, until a solid stream of brake fluid comes out the caliper at the bleeder valve.
great vid.... where did u buy the pressure bleeder? good to have when alone
+Leatherkid01 Ipdusa.com
Same brake fluid for the 240?
how many ml of brake fluid do i need for volvo s60?
So did you power bleed your ABS?
hello i wantto ask about coolant bleeding. i have changed my coolant but my coolant level drops every time. no leaks or gasket problem. how i can get rid of air. is it caused by coolant reservoir cap?
There is a special funnel you can buy that screws on top of the reservoir that you fill with coolant and keep filled with coolant why you run the car. Traditionally you turn the heat on, run the engine until the thermostat opens, usually 185*F. This will get any air pockets out
The Amazon Website stated that the Motive Power Bleeder was not compatible with my 2015 Volvo XC70? What model do you have?
Have 1995 960, but still watched the whole video. Hah!
Hi
Can you demonstrate exactly where you safely place the garage jack and the jack stands under your car ( XV 70) next time around
+Helge Lassesen Will try not to forget.
I wondered the same thing. I have an 04 XC70 that only acquired a few months ago. There does not seem to be a specific location to jack the car up. The jack points that the manual shows is vague. I've jacked it up a few ties and I'm just taking my best guess.
When using the scissors jack that comes with 04 XC70, there is a jack bar just under each front door. This jack system is only for changing a tire away from home. It lifts BOTH front and rear tire at the same time.
When raising the car to work at home, I use a hydraulic floor jack (like shown in this video). You lift the unibody frame when jacking up the front.
In the rear, you lift the frame bar that attaches to the lower spring end supporting the wheel. Place the jack where the frame presents a level, flat surface for the top of jack to contact squarely. You raise 1/4 of the car at a time....this gives maximum control and safety.
As shown, after lifting, place a steel jackstand near to hydraulic jack as a backup in case hydraulic jack were to fail. It doesn't have to contact frame, but stand only close to that height.
Hi Volvosweden, what size is the bleeder hose? I see 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch at my local auto parts store. Thanks.
hi, get you answer?
Great Video! I have a Motive bleeder like that. I haven't checked yet but is the cap compatible with the XC? Also, I assume you removed the wheels so you can clearly show what you are doing. But in my other cars I don't usually remove the wheels to bleed the brakes.
Depends what model of motive bleeder you got. For video purpose I did remove the wheels.
@@volvosweden The XC70 P3 FRONTS can be bled by merely raising the wheel about 3" to get under there. The REARS I found required removing the wheels, because of where the bleeder-nipple is located.
Since this is a newer model and left hand drive, will it be different for volvo 2004, 2.4i s40?
Especially the sequence of wheels done?
Just found your channel... nice job. Now I can start working on my wife car! Do you think the air bubbles were a result of leak or just too much time between flushes?
+pgreenx Nice. Hope you find it helpfull. Thx for subscribing.
This Power Bleeder tool introduced some air that was in the plastic filler hose when first connecting it to the reservoir. That air has to be completely worked through the system and ejected at the first caliper bled. If not, you end up with a "soft" brake pedal and unsafe braking power.
A better design for the Power Bleeder would begin by priming (bleeding) the connector hose, so that no air is pumped into the brake lines.
@@pbierre I really doubt that air was from the bleeder. You adding some air to reservoir but all air stays at highest point of reservoir and all fluid goes down. If your reservoir completely dry then air will enter into system.
Great video but I thought for break bleeding you are supposed to start from the caliper furthest from the master cylinder and then work to the closest one.
This was done as per Volvo manual.
nice job, but your old fluid seems fine, from looking at its colour
Not a big difference in color yes. But its almost eight years old.
Thanks for the video , will it be the same on RHD, so starting from driver side or passenger side of the RHD which would be driver side of the LHD ?
Whichever side is closer to the brake fluid reservoir, wheels on that side are #1 and #3 in sequence.
@@dataflowgeometry thanks, I've heard otherwise
Where get socket?
Hi VolvoSweden, how did you get Volvo instructions? Do you have VIDA access by any chance? If so how did you manage to get that? Thx!
+Hunter Dai Get it on eBay.
+Hunter Dai You can get VIDA from eBay.