Good job! I work with lots of crosscut saws, including vintage saws and newer saws like yours, and I believe you'll do fine with this saw and appreciate it. Keep it sharp, enjoy it. I think purists argue some well-founded and understandable points about this or that, but I believe that unless you are cutting a bunch of trees all day long, the finer distinctions between tooth patterns, maker, steel, construction, etc. are not as important as some may say. Lots to say on this, just keep sawing!
I have what looks like the identical saw. No name either, but I bought it from Portland’s oldest and most well-stocked hardware store-Wink’s Hardware-about 25 years ago for around $100. I never questioned the quality, because if it was ok by them, then it was by me. Its been a great saw. I’m now in the process of cleaning, jointing, setting, and sharpening.
@@thebastard1958 The first real one. I’ve touched it up here and there over the years with a file-but after watching a few of these knowledgeable people out there, I realize you can’t do that. I ran a flexible straight edge over the teeth, and saw the unevenness. So I jointed it, and now I can set it up right, after I make a spider, a pin gauge, and a raker filing guide. Luckily, they all look easy to build. There’s a lot more to this than first meets the eye! They look like brute tools, but they’re actually precision cutters if set up properly. They’re really a form of chisel, and I know how to set up a chisel or a plane. I can’t wait to try it out! Happy Independence Day!
@@raystanczak4277 hey' check out forest service info on cross cut saws. A wealth of info can be found, although it takes time to search. Sorry there's no links to add, but who knows what useful info you'll find? Start with forest service cross cut saw maintenance & go from there, good luck my friend. The journey starts with the 1st step.
@@thebastard1958 Thanks, but those popped up pretty quick on UA-cam. I guess running a file across the tops of your saw teeth qualifies as a first step, eh? No going backwards from that one! You take care.
+Rattler Ryder thanks for the scabard advice. I still haven't heard from the forest service on if they are going to authorize me to maintain my favorite hiking trail. so until then I wait. thx anyways.
@@thebastard1958 I am glad you ended that sentence with "watching each others video's" 😂 😂 or people may of took that wrong LOL😂 😂 But yes, I like your video content, keep up the good work Brother. and thank you for watching mine, I appreciate it James.
I use to use a vintage one similar to that & would cut down hardwood trees up to 20" or 25" in diameter. We also used it for cutting up cord wood & I was always sharpening it. We also used a 6' cross cut saw & we could usually shave our arm with our double bit axes. On some of the big logs I tried not to be on the stinger end when cutting with my wife's cousin's, they would get to much in a hurry & either whack my knuckles or bend the saw which would jerk my shoulder. We used a team of horses to skid the logs out of the woods. Very hard work I must say & I'm glad I was young back then. We had one older guy that worked with us & at one point he almost had a heart attack. He went to lighter duty after that.
Hmm, for doing bushcraft trips and camping out, I honestly prefer my bowsaw, its only about 50 cm (20 or so inches), packs down nicely into a bag that I have sewn from cotton canvas. So you dont cut big timber with it, but I can honestly chop that with the axe if I find any lying around. For felling and bucking a bit of firewood in our forest I bring a 66" felling saw, it does everything, perforated lance pattern. I don't go about doing these things alone so a 2 man saw is perfect :)
The one I bought came w/factory set & sharpened teeth. I paid $150 or so for it I saw similar saws for about $85 but they were not factory set or sharpened. In the video I did mention who I bought it from, but right now I can't remember. Worse case scenario learn to do the sharpening & tooth setting yourself.
I just bought this saw at dieter schmid fine tools in germany. The brand is Wilhelm Putsh. They have too model with different tooth model. The one you have is not sold by dieter schmid but is on the fabric catalogue... The price for the other model is 100 euros excluding shipping.
looks good. what goes into getting the teeth sharpened? would this be workable for cutting logs to split for a wood stove? I don't mind the physical labor or time it takes, I enjoy that. Just wondering if it is even feasible, or just an idealistic thought.
james yes they do offer a leather scabard. but it looks heavy any not weather proof. I was thinkin of using 2 plastic strips with a grrove in them and put one on the blade and one on the top of the saw then wrap rope around it to keep the plastic in place. im a trail maintenance guy. so keeping the saw safe and straight is number 1. wat do you think? or maybe cedar with the groove
+greg I think you're on the right track, keep it light. If the saw blade is protected you could keep it in place w/the small bungee cord's they can be made to fit very easily
@@thebastard1958 How does this tooth pattern compare to the perforated one? Same bite and cut speed? Prices of these saws nowadays are ridiculous. I was thinking to buy a rip saw but man im better off just keeping the money and use my lance as a rip saw (*・～・*)
@@thebastard1958 ok, true. Wont snag on smaller branches like the lance. Thata why i bought 2 saws. The other one is in a wood frame with the tuttle tooth. Much smaller teeth. That one usually stays in my house. I have to sharpen and set the teeth. Just ordered a saw set plier off amazon for it, cant wait to get it. So its spelled tuttle huh, i thought your were saying tunnel. I suppose tuttle is the guy just like LT Robertson who invented the Robertson head screw. Im gonna look it up later. Thx
I had time to try it once last winter on a very thick oak log that was dry (had fallen on the way). This saw worked fine even on such a hard wood and very large log. I have the impression it is a nice tool. I have to try it on green wood to decide wether it can be used to cut fire wood in reasonable time... The aim is to find out what could be the reasonable output of wood per day in cord (without dying from an heart attack). Anyone with some experience with heavy use of cross cut saw ?
That's what I think the best use of this saw is. If I had a lot of wood to buck up I'd use a chain saw. For small jobs or wilderness use I think this saw is perfect. I could use it to cut up cords of firewood if I was retired w/lots of time on my hands, but that's not why I bought this saw. It's a travel companion in the wilderness once you've found a place to build a semi-permanent shelter.
I have an old Keystone Perforated Lance, teeth set and sharp i can saw up some real nice piles of fire wood. Ive never owned a chainsaw, and i dont think i ever will. My saw does the job very well.
The best way to handle sharpening the teeth is to learn how to do it yourself otherwise you'll have to find a sawyer in your area to do it for you. There are some how to video's out there but they seem to make it into a real headache. I use a file(1 for saw blades) and just sharpen the thing. To find the angle in which to file the teeth take a Q-tip & dip it in some paint & put a VERY light coat on 1 cutter tooth & 1 rake tooth let it dry, then note the angle of the file as clean off the paint
+greg Hey greg, I never got around to the scabbard cause I've been working on my house since I made the video. My initial thought was to start w/a piece of flashing to protect the teeth & than wing it from there. I'm pretty sure you could find a leather one pre made that would fit but it would probably cost as much as the saw
I have the same saw in a 36" and I'm using a piece of fire hose, canvas outside rubber inside, 4" hose when lying flat, I cut it up the center of one fold and tie the hose onto the saw with small cotton rope. I pack it on a mule as I horse pack back country and use it to clear the trail in places where getting around the dead fall is impossible with horse and mule..
This question/request is for PATCsawyer. Sorry for the very late comment, but I've got a request for you. Would you please submit a video using a 13" corona to go through a 5"-6" soft wood in 30 seconds as you stated it would do. I'm interested in the corona but seeing is believing. The saw I used, is for larger wood, I only made the video to show what the saw would do.
bought one like this but made in england , easier to use than 2 man, hours of fun now that the wind has died down and i can get to grips with all the wind blown trees around the home
They are nice & not near as loud as a chain saw. There is something really sweet, @ least as far as I'm concerned, about using your own hands to do a chore.
i bought the same saw from the same site, also the 2 man tuttle design. let me tell you, that shit is hard to saw. i cut a poplar down and it should have gone through like butter, but its tiring. ive worked for the forest service for a while and the saws they provided us with (even though real beat up and old) did the trick much better than this thing. also, why didnt they think of putting two holes for the supp. handle? it keeps rotating and loosening all the time. two man saw within one day o
It look's like a Wilhelm Putsch saw , you can buy cheaper saw's 85$ but you get what you pay for . Quality tools are not cheap but last for years . Remember to clean and oil the blade after use wd40 is a good cleaner and some light motor oil will keep it from rusting .
+Gary Scullion thanks for the info & what you said seems to be in agreement w/other posts. I agree you get what you pay for & I'm glad I got the pre set, hand sharpened blade. Thanks
I bought this saw for cutting 8"-12" logs & it will work fine for that. I have a small cross cut saw for light work that I paid $5.00 for. I noticed PATsawyer recommend a 13"corona. I appreciate the advice, but it didn't take almost a minute it was more like 35 seconds & I never broke a sweat even in the heat of the day. But hey each to his own.
Almost a minute to cut a small softwood? You'd be much better off with a 13" Corona, which is much easier to pack and would cut that tree in half the time. Save your crosscut for bigger wood and get it filed by someone familiar with the process.
Thanks for the info, you are now the 2nd or 3rd to confirm that. I thought that maybe they were the maker but was unable to confirm it. It is a great saw & I'm very pleased w/it. Again thanks
That saw is junk compared to vintage steel. You should have hung on to the old lance. They wouldn't tell you who made it. WTF? Answer = CHINA! Hand set and sharpened? LOL!
Great video. We want to get one of these for our place to help with tree clearing and firewood. Thanks for making the video.
Good job! I work with lots of crosscut saws, including vintage saws and newer saws like yours, and I believe you'll do fine with this saw and appreciate it. Keep it sharp, enjoy it. I think purists argue some well-founded and understandable points about this or that, but I believe that unless you are cutting a bunch of trees all day long, the finer distinctions between tooth patterns, maker, steel, construction, etc. are not as important as some may say. Lots to say on this, just keep sawing!
I'm very happy w/it I think you will be also. my main purpose for buying the saw was to build a semi-permanent shelter deep in the wilderness.
It's a 32" blade so you could use on some good size logs. I'm guessing 16"-20" would be max. The more blade available the quicker the cut.
Looks like a nice saw.
i going to get one of those.
I have what looks like the identical saw. No name either, but I bought it from Portland’s oldest and most well-stocked hardware store-Wink’s Hardware-about 25 years ago for around $100. I never questioned the quality, because if it was ok by them, then it was by me.
Its been a great saw. I’m now in the process of cleaning, jointing, setting, and sharpening.
I'm glad to know it's working well for you. Is this the 1st maintenance on the saw?
@@thebastard1958 The first real one. I’ve touched it up here and there over the years with a file-but after watching a few of these knowledgeable people out there, I realize you can’t do that. I ran a flexible straight edge over the teeth, and saw the unevenness. So I jointed it, and now I can set it up right, after I make a spider, a pin gauge, and a raker filing guide. Luckily, they all look easy to build.
There’s a lot more to this than first meets the eye! They look like brute tools, but they’re actually precision cutters if set up properly. They’re really a form of chisel, and I know how to set up a chisel or a plane.
I can’t wait to try it out!
Happy Independence Day!
@@raystanczak4277 hey' check out forest service info on cross cut saws. A wealth of info can be found, although it takes time to search. Sorry there's no links to add, but who knows what useful info you'll find? Start with forest service cross cut saw maintenance & go from there, good luck my friend. The journey starts with the 1st step.
@@thebastard1958 Thanks, but those popped up pretty quick on UA-cam.
I guess running a file across the tops of your saw teeth qualifies as a first step, eh? No going backwards from that one! You take care.
@@raystanczak4277 U/2 take care
+Rattler Ryder
thanks for the scabard advice.
I still haven't heard from the forest service on if they are going to authorize me to maintain my favorite hiking trail.
so until then I wait.
thx anyways.
thanks for the comments, It's good to hear what you had say especially coming from a sawyer.
Nice saw, I really need to upgrade my Grandpa's old saw. Lot's of love from the American Hillbilly and the Hillbilly Nation, Hillbilly Up brother.
so you've been doing to me what I've been doing to you, watching each others video's, so funny
@@thebastard1958 I am glad you ended that sentence with "watching each others video's" 😂 😂 or people may of took that wrong LOL😂 😂 But yes, I like your video content, keep up the good work Brother. and thank you for watching mine, I appreciate it James.
I use to use a vintage one similar to that & would cut down hardwood trees up to 20" or 25" in diameter. We also used it for cutting up cord wood & I was always sharpening it. We also used a 6' cross cut saw & we could usually shave our arm with our double bit axes. On some of the big logs I tried not to be on the stinger end when cutting with my wife's cousin's, they would get to much in a hurry & either whack my knuckles or bend the saw which would jerk my shoulder. We used a team of horses to skid the logs out of the woods. Very hard work I must say & I'm glad I was young back then. We had one older guy that worked with us & at one point he almost had a heart attack. He went to lighter duty after that.
+Dana Faddis Sounds like you've had a hard but good life!! Regards
Yup, Those were the good old days
+Dana Faddis AGREED
I'm glad you enjoyed it. Like I said in the video though, make sure you're buying a saw that has properly set & sharpened teeth
Thanks for the info
Hmm, for doing bushcraft trips and camping out, I honestly prefer my bowsaw, its only about 50 cm (20 or so inches), packs down nicely into a bag that I have sewn from cotton canvas.
So you dont cut big timber with it, but I can honestly chop that with the axe if I find any lying around.
For felling and bucking a bit of firewood in our forest I bring a 66" felling saw, it does everything, perforated lance pattern.
I don't go about doing these things alone so a 2 man saw is perfect :)
I just ordered one of these from Traditional Woodworker. Did you have any problems with the way the teeth were set or the sharpness out of the box?
The one I bought came w/factory set & sharpened teeth. I paid $150 or so for it I saw similar saws for about $85 but they were not factory set or sharpened. In the video I did mention who I bought it from, but right now I can't remember. Worse case scenario learn to do the sharpening & tooth setting yourself.
I just bought this saw at dieter schmid fine tools in germany. The brand is Wilhelm Putsh. They have too model with different tooth model. The one you have is not sold by dieter schmid but is on the fabric catalogue...
The price for the other model is 100 euros excluding shipping.
Hey James! question? are you happy still happy with the 32"? or would you buy the 36" if you had to do it all over again ? Thanks!
the 21" RS7160 is savage
looks good. what goes into getting the teeth sharpened? would this be workable for cutting logs to split for a wood stove? I don't mind the physical labor or time it takes, I enjoy that. Just wondering if it is even feasible, or just an idealistic thought.
james
yes they do offer a leather scabard. but it looks heavy any not weather proof.
I was thinkin of using 2 plastic strips with a grrove in them and put one on the blade and one on the top of the saw then wrap rope around it to keep the plastic in place.
im a trail maintenance guy. so keeping the saw safe and straight is number 1.
wat do you think?
or maybe cedar with the groove
+greg I think you're on the right track, keep it light. If the saw blade is protected you could keep it in place w/the small bungee cord's they can be made to fit very easily
For such a small log, its like using a sword for doing a needle's work.
OK you're right, I'd rather have a sword in a needle fight
Wilhelm Putsch is the builder
Great vid man, i was actually wondering if the tooth layouts had a name. So now i know why my keystone says perforated lance.
Glad you liked it, I did my homework b-4 my purchase
@@thebastard1958 How does this tooth pattern compare to the perforated one? Same bite and cut speed? Prices of these saws nowadays are ridiculous. I was thinking to buy a rip saw but man im better off just keeping the money and use my lance as a rip saw (*・～・*)
@@rashadabdullah9769 I picked the tuttle tooth pattern because it seemed to be the best all round use for me
@@thebastard1958 ok, true. Wont snag on smaller branches like the lance. Thata why i bought 2 saws. The other one is in a wood frame with the tuttle tooth. Much smaller teeth. That one usually stays in my house. I have to sharpen and set the teeth. Just ordered a saw set plier off amazon for it, cant wait to get it. So its spelled tuttle huh, i thought your were saying tunnel. I suppose tuttle is the guy just like LT Robertson who invented the Robertson head screw. Im gonna look it up later. Thx
how big of diameter logs can you cut with it?
I had time to try it once last winter on a very thick oak log that was dry (had fallen on the way).
This saw worked fine even on such a hard wood and very large log.
I have the impression it is a nice tool.
I have to try it on green wood to decide wether it can be used to cut fire wood in reasonable time...
The aim is to find out what could be the reasonable output of wood per day in cord (without dying from an heart attack).
Anyone with some experience with heavy use of cross cut saw ?
That's what I think the best use of this saw is. If I had a lot of wood to buck up I'd use a chain saw. For small jobs or wilderness use I think this saw is perfect. I could use it to cut up cords of firewood if I was retired w/lots of time on my hands, but that's not why I bought this saw. It's a travel companion in the wilderness once you've found a place to build a semi-permanent shelter.
I have an old Keystone Perforated Lance, teeth set and sharp i can saw up some real nice piles of fire wood. Ive never owned a chainsaw, and i dont think i ever will. My saw does the job very well.
Would have been nice to have a website or something.
The best way to handle sharpening the teeth is to learn how to do it yourself otherwise you'll have to find a sawyer in your area to do it for you. There are some how to video's out there but they seem to make it into a real headache. I use a file(1 for saw blades) and just sharpen the thing. To find the angle in which to file the teeth take a Q-tip & dip it in some paint & put a VERY light coat on 1 cutter tooth & 1 rake tooth let it dry, then note the angle of the file as clean off the paint
what kind of scabard did you make saw?
I also need to carry this saw on or in a backpack.
+greg Hey greg, I never got around to the scabbard cause I've been working on my house since I made the video. My initial thought was to start w/a piece of flashing to protect the teeth & than wing it from there. I'm pretty sure you could find a leather one pre made that would fit but it would probably cost as much as the saw
I have the same saw in a 36" and I'm using a piece of fire hose, canvas outside rubber inside, 4" hose when lying flat, I cut it up the center of one fold and tie the hose onto the saw with small cotton rope. I pack it on a mule as I horse pack back country and use it to clear the trail in places where getting around the dead fall is impossible with horse and mule..
That's a really good idea
It's a good saw.
To me it looks like it has at least one raker that's too tall towards the back because it kept hanging up in the same area.
I thought the saw took far too long to get through that wood.
This question/request is for PATCsawyer. Sorry for the very late comment, but I've got a request for you. Would you please submit a video using a 13" corona to go through a 5"-6" soft wood in 30 seconds as you stated it would do. I'm interested in the corona but seeing is believing. The saw I used, is for larger wood, I only made the video to show what the saw would do.
I'm an arborist, use those pruning saws every day. 5-6" softwood, easy in 30 seconds with a corona.
How would it cut an oak or hickory log
Yes I did try it on hard wood, works fine just let the saw do it's job. It works easier that way.
bought one like this but made in england , easier to use than 2 man, hours of fun now that the wind has died down and i can get to grips with all the wind blown trees around the home
They are nice & not near as loud as a chain saw. There is something really sweet, @ least as far as I'm concerned, about using your own hands to do a chore.
I have seen that saw on the internet before I believe it's made by crosscut saw company
Rakers are maladjusted and the teeth are out to steep. Looks sharp though
thanks for the heads up, you seem to have a trained eye. and yes it seems to be sharp enough.
looks almost like a "lynx" by Thomas Flinn, Sheffield.
Thanks for the info, still kind of a mystery?
The TF saw has a different tooth pattern at the tip of the saw
The saw is a Wilpu and on Amazon for about $77 now.
OK thanks for the info
i bought the same saw from the same site, also the 2 man tuttle design. let me tell you, that shit is hard to saw. i cut a poplar down and it should have gone through like butter, but its tiring. ive worked for the forest service for a while and the saws they provided us with (even though real beat up and old) did the trick much better than this thing. also, why didnt they think of putting two holes for the supp. handle? it keeps rotating and loosening all the time. two man saw within one day o
It look's like a Wilhelm Putsch saw , you can buy cheaper saw's 85$ but you get what you pay for . Quality tools are not cheap but last for years . Remember to clean and oil the blade after use wd40 is a good cleaner and some light motor oil will keep it from rusting .
+Gary Scullion thanks for the info & what you said seems to be in agreement w/other posts. I agree you get what you pay for & I'm glad I got the pre set, hand sharpened blade. Thanks
@Robert Marshall Didn't buckle b.c the log is so small, And, buckling has to do with positioning and thickness of the blade
I bought this saw for cutting 8"-12" logs & it will work fine for that. I have a small cross cut saw for light work that I paid $5.00 for. I noticed PATsawyer recommend a 13"corona. I appreciate the advice, but it didn't take almost a minute it was more like 35 seconds & I never broke a sweat even in the heat of the day. But hey each to his own.
Almost a minute to cut a small softwood? You'd be much better off with a 13" Corona, which is much easier to pack and would cut that tree in half the time. Save your crosscut for bigger wood and get it filed by someone familiar with the process.
2:04 is that a dead guy?
i would age all wood a year to make cutting easier. but really I'll wouse out and stick w/farmboss
Wow a silky folding saw half the length could cut that in half the time. Search " Silky Bigboy" medium teeth.... so much better.
also, the saw isnt singning
I have this saw. Is a big one made in 1921.
Chinesey ??
you should thank me for the video, because now you know for sure you don't want one.
James Hayes Strange how they wouldn't give you the manufacturer. We'll be seeing more Made in Taiwan with The Donald increasing trade.
its made by wilhelm putsch
Thanks for the info, you are now the 2nd or 3rd to confirm that. I thought that maybe they were the maker but was unable to confirm it. It is a great saw & I'm very pleased w/it. Again thanks
+James Hayes Is that a reputable maker?
guggst du hier: www.grube.de/
That saw is junk compared to vintage steel. You should have hung on to the old lance. They wouldn't tell you who made it. WTF? Answer = CHINA! Hand set and sharpened? LOL!