How to build upscale wainscoting
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- Опубліковано 12 лис 2020
- Using mostly scraps from the pony/half wall project to create complementary wainscoting for the foyer.
Tools:
Kreg pocket hole jig: www.lowes.com/pd/Kreg-Kphj310...
Kreg pocket hole screws: www.lowes.com/pd/Kreg-Pocket-...
Makita hammer drill and impact driver set: www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18...
Makita palm sander: www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-3-...
Metabo (Hitachi) 15 gauge finish nailer: www.lowes.com/pd/Metabo-HPT-w...
Metabo (Hitachi) 18 gauge brad nailer: www.lowes.com/pd/Metabo-HPT-w... - Навчання та стиль
Still scratching my head about it being short. The cove the way it died into baseboard, hmmm. Everything else looks good, mate!
I thought the same. Why not flush it all the way to the end of the wall? lol
I was trimming houses all the way back in the mid 1980s. I'm going to quickly say, I'm glad you pronounced it "Waynes COAT ing." That's the way I've always pronounced it and JESUS, I can't believe the number of people that have tried to correct me on this. Thank you for pronouncing it the way I have since 1986.
I also like the way you keep your tape measure in your left hand and you've learned to read the tape upside down. YES! You are a man I RESPECT!
Great detail, thank you for showing all the parts and not making it look like a 5 minute job and no tools needed!! Appreciate it 👍
Thank you for the kind comment, Dianne!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I've been watching a million of these videos cuz I want to do this over a large mirrored wall so the detail is so helpful especially where I can't nail it to the wall .
Impressive improvement to the entryway. Good job, Dave.
Thanks Willard!
GREAT video Dave.
Beautiful work
Many thanks!
Nicely done. I like that you did the backboard and a cap. Especially because a majority of the homes I see today the builders are just using MDF trim and painting the sheetrock... was great to see a quality job done like yours. Thanks for sharing your project and tips.
Thank you!
Exactly! Unless the wall is textured, there really is no difference between the backboard and drywall. I wouldn't waste the extra time or money
Very very nice work and great video production. I learned a lot!
Thank you for the kind comment, Cookefan59!
Well done Dave 👍 thanx for sharing
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the kind comment, Bill!
It makes zero sense to leave your panel short of the casing.
The panels were scraps left over from another project. (ua-cam.com/video/6ynN_PEQfY0/v-deo.html) They weren't large enough to back the entire casing. Thanks for the comment, TruthSerum.
Coping with an oscillating tool is something I've never seen and made me cringe LOL. Your work is beautiful!
I was cringing too. Much appreciated, Raquel!
I love your project and well organized**
Much appreciated, Andrew.
Do you have a name for the internal molding?
Build gets hella intense when the compressor kicks in. Feeling is so high I get jelly vision. Haha nice build man. Inspiring.
Much appreciated! ... I've got a new camera setup now---hopefully it'll help.
Warning: Hard lesson learned. Don’t put painter’s tape on real hardwood floors. Takes finish off. If you have a magnifying glass, there’s a warning printed on the inside of the roll.
Thanks for the advice. I never heard that before. But I looked it up, and you're right. Still, I've used it many times on hardwood and never had a problem ... but I'll try to stick to the sensitive surface tape from now on.👍
Te quedo la entrada muy bonita ! Un buen trabajo !👏🏻👍🙏
Thank you very much!
Very nice job.
Thank you!
Excellent job.
Thank you very much!
Never seen anybody cut trim from behind the chopsaw that’s a new one to me lol next time just flip your trim piece around and the long end will be on the outside so you can see it! Great work for a DIYer A lot of people never really pick up the mathematics it takes it’s simple but some people never really grasp it👍
Thanks for the tip Robert!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Not to mention use a push bar, you'll slice your hand off doing that!!!
Very beautiful. 😊
Thanks, Yvette!
your very good with the multi use tool . I've never seen somebody cope shoemolding with one . I just use a coping saw .
You did a great job .
Thanks Vic!
Wish you were available to work for us in Sonoma County. Beautiful Dave!
Haha :-) Much appreciated!
Wow 😯 nice works
Good stuff! This is good inspiration. I've been trying to think of ways to run my wainscot to the entry door casing. I can't add a backband to the casing due to the plinth block, and I didn't want to "marry" the wainscot and casing. This definitely presents an option.
Thanks, Tim. All the best on your project! :-)
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY thank you! It's a solution I would have never thought of without seeing your vid, but one that instantly makes sense.
Looks great.
Thanks!
Should have ran it to the door casing…
Also get a Franklin stud sensor… You will not be disappointed
I've been itching for one of those.
Thanks Dave
What a great project is turned out to be but I would always recommend moving the outlet into the baseboard and turn it on its side looks so much cleaner so much neater
Thanks for the suggestion!
The outlet needs to be 12 inches from floor modern code so most likely wouldn't be able to make it in the baseboard
@@milanadamovsky5211 Not correct , national code allows outlets to be installed in the base molding .
Nice work.
Thanks Linda!
Good job!
Thanks! And thanks again for watching!
Really makes that entry way upscale! Nice termination as well.
Thanks Harry!
Looks great! Can you send me a list of materials needed for this?
Great job! Thanks for the video. I'll try it this way over here in Switzerland.
What is the boards thickness?
Thanks Zareh! The boards are 3/4 inch, and the plywood is 1/2 inch ... (not sure what they are in metric).
Love the look! Why did you end it before the wall ended? That is a little funky
Thanks Claire. Good question ... We ended it before the doorway because there seemed no good way to transition from the thick, more formal style of the wainscoting, to the contractor grade door trim.
I am following and I am a finish carpenter/contractor & I got it all , great job! But by 34.6 do you mean 34 5/16? Also they are styles . Mullions R to say a window or door divided out into window squares , same for cabinet door with glass squares which are enclosed by mullions.
Nice to see a guy that is a home owner who knows carpentry!
Much appreciated! It's funny you should mention the mullions vs. styles thing ... I was working on another video just today and I had to look it up so I didn't say it wrong in the video.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY no you were exactly right for sure!
Great job! Subed, what degrees on the table saw do you tilt your blade for coping ?
Thanks, Ron, and good question. I should have shown it. I actually usually just eyeball a little slant for the scribe, but I think it's somewhere between 5 and 10 degrees.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY awesome thanks! It looks a little scary though, but being careful is key. Thanks again, you definitely do beautiful work.
Great job; such an improvement! Are materials & tools listed anywhere?
Thanks, Bill :-) I just went back and added the tools to the description. as far as materials go, it would vary size of wall, but the bottom rail is a 1x8, the top rail and stiles are 1x6, and the 2 mullions are 1x4. The cap is 1x2 (or a ripped 1x4), the small trim on top and bottom are shoe moulding, and the frames are trimmed in pine base cap moulding.
Thanks Dave, what is the name/size of the molding you used for the interior inner squares?
11/16-in x 1.375-in x 8-ft Primed Pine Base Cap Moulding
Question...how does one overcome different levels in the same area. Should the chair rail be kept level throughout the changing levels and sacrifice the other dimensions such as height. Any ideas.?
Thanks for the question, Ismail. So that I understand better, are you talking about an uneven (wavy) floor (like high and low spots within maybe an inch of each other)? Or are you talking about transitioning down a step or steps? If it is just an uneven floor, you would set the panel on the floor, use shims to level it, then scribe the bottom and cut it so that it follows the contours of the floor. I believe I do that in this video: ua-cam.com/video/HB2rXQCWYFA/v-deo.html Hope this helps. If not, let me know and I'll try to answer better.
lotsa freehanding on this. i wouldn't have been so brave, i like it all snug
Great Job! I been watching some videos lately, i like yours the best. I like the way you install the back. How thick was the back? I was going to add 1/4 back. "It might be too thin." Thanks
Thanks! The back is 1/2".
Im surprised you didn't take the sander to the outside corner molding after you had coped it for a tighter grab.
Coping with the multi-tool. Of course... why haven't I been doing that.
Looks like it takes twice as long
are you using shoe moulding for the inside corners?
Cove. Shoe at the bottom, and upside down shoe under the cap.
Looks great except for leaving it short on one end and other end cove molding into baseboard kills it as well
You can cope two cuts with a coping saw in the time you used the multi tool
You’re probably right
Why does everyone take the base boards off??
What type of wood did you use? And panels?
I used pre-primed finger-jointed pine, with 7/16 "sandeply" plywood from Home Depot.
What kind of wood product are you using?
Primed pine.
Spackle knife for a screwdriver and unprotected wood floors.
Hey what is the name of the sound track?
I went back and tried to figure it out for you, but couldn't find the name. Sorry.-- I really need to remember to put them in the description when I upload :-/
Good video why specifically cant you just butt them together and nail it to the wall. Im putting up 1/4 ply wood then nailing 1x lumber up. 1/4 plywood is because i have texture on my wall.
Thanks. I fasten them together as a unit because not all of the stile/mullions will fall on a stud, if so, they'll just be nailed to drywall -- which is fine if adhesive is added too. Of course if you already have plywood on the wall, then that would help with the nailing.
Just use ur drill for the outlet.my bosses r always doing things by hand and I'm always running to the truck for another tool. We all end up dead from frusration
Bro, I am so sorry, but I really have to tell you that using a little bit of caulking, and a 23 gauge PIN NAILER go a long way (just a few holes ok, you don't need 45 shots of brad nails into a base molding....this is finish carpentry bro.) This way is better than those big ass 18 gauge holes. Now that you gotta putty the 85 holes you shot into the molding, sand, then paint. I am telling you this for your own good.
Thanks for the tip!
Please cover the floor.
Anyway there is a good video on value wainscoting on “inside Carpentry” lots of ppl do not understand the amount of time and effort it takes to do this say on 40’ of wall ? Not to mention you hv to be dead on your measurements and math. I use Gary Katz’s formula to figure mine and instead of running 3 pieces of plywood I run MDF it’s cheaper and paints better. I understand you had it to use up! Now that the wife seen it and wants it in the bathrooms u can say some money using MDF ! Ha!
I follow insider carpentry and I watched that video! Good stuff. .. This job was at my parents' house though... my wife's not big on "fancy" looking stuff, so I'm safe :-)
Well Dave if I lived by you and needed a finish guy I could leave w/o worry I would be at your door ! (Not that you would consider it just saying).
Most guys do not take the time & effort to learn correctly !
@@zephyr1408 Truly appreciated. Thank you for the kind comments, and have a blessed New Year!
@FamilyFriendlyDIY Hi Dave, Is it possible to have a list on the thicknesses of what you used of the MDF, or in timber, so I can give it a go, please?
alright, let's get right into the issues that i see. firstly, your end stiles should always be the same height as your middle stiles. maybe you wanted to do something different, but in doing so you have now provided an inconsistent look throughout your panels. Secondly, I commend you for using pocket holes but you are using them the wrong way. the entire point of pocket holes is to provide a PERFECT transition between 2 pieces of wood. This is attained by using a Face Clamp along with the pocket hole jig and clamping the stile to the rail with the jig attached. Then, and only then, you use the drill bit provided to drill the hole. Notice how the tip of the drill bit looks like it has a smaller drill bit sticking out of it? This is to provide a pilot hole into the rails so that when you install your screw it doesn't kick the rail out of place. If your issue is that you had to work off the floor so you couldn't fit a clamp underneath then just block up all the joints where the rails meet the stiles and slide each block away while you use the clamp & jig then slide it back underneath afterwards. I can see ALL of the inconsistent joints in your build and if you did it the way I am recommending then you wouldn't need to sand them to get them even. Third, I will again commend you on using actual panel board, as too many people use the wall as their panel which ends up with an "orange peel" effect due to wall paint being of a thicker consistency and being applied by rollers, but with that being said, your installation process was not ideal. I noticed that you used a thicker construction adhesive instead of wood glue ,which is fine, but when doing so on something that is intricate by design you need to squeeze that glue as flat as possible by running your hands (or block of wood or something) along the back side of the panel where the beads of glue are, with as much pressure as possible before using fasteners, which brings me to my next item: brad nails are not the ideal choice in this situation as they don't provide any shear strength and won't suck the panels into position very well at all. Using a pneumatic stapler would provide better results but I, personally, would drill pilot holes and use screws. Using screws gives the entire build immediate shear strength so it can be moved around instantly instead of having to wait for the glue to dry, and you would get even more strength if you use one large continuous panel instead of smaller separate panels. Installation of the build was acceptable, but I'm sure you noticed that you should have applied the glue before you got it into place but hey, everybody forgets things from time to time. Now onto the worst part of this video (so far, I'm commenting as I watch) and I am not going to be nice about it: The detail where you ran the cove moulding into a notch in the baseboard looks like absolute garbage. you can't just use cove moulding wherever you want and expect it to look good, and you DEFINITELY don't run it into a notched baseboard. On top of that, your baseboard shouldn't have been replaced with anything but the exact same board you used for your bottom rail. You don't mix profiles and you should also never use quarter-round as a shoe moulding; it's ugly and there are much better options out there. I should also point out that if you had just built the whole thing to the proper length instead of leaving a gap between it and the door casing, you could have avoided all of baseboard and shoe moulding issues. I get it: you figured that you needed to take the full length and divide that by the amount of panels to get the spacing right, but division using imperial measurements is super tough so you trimmed enough off the length so that you had an easily divisible number, but it is SO much easier than that: simply measure the full length and make a center mark, then make a center mark between the initial center mark and each end, and VOILA, you now have perfectly spaced stiles. If the panels end up looking too small in width then, instead of using those marks as centers for your stiles, use them as the centers for your panels and now you have a 3 panel detail instead of a 4 panel detail in the same space. nice work on scribing the chair rail to match the wall, but with all the other inconsistencies you have, doing so is akin to adding a Bentley symbol to an 1982 Honda Civic. you could've just run a bead of caulking along it and gotten results that would have matched the quality of the build. Nice choice on your panel moulding but your mitres are off, so either your saw needs to be calibrated or you are already suffering from the build having inconsistencies. Lastly, NEVER us filler in place of caulking. It doesn't provide a smooth enough look to hide the imperfections. Mitres and seams get caulking, nail holes get filler. I would like to conclude by saying that I would never have made this comment if I didn't notice that you were TRYING to do it the right way but clearly just didn't have the training and experience to do so
Do not use impact drill on wood
looks ok on camera. but a camera at 5 feet away can hide a lot of ugly. First. You should have mitered that end cap instead of just butting it together. Second. You didn't need to scribe that top piece. Just make sure it has equal distance from the face if the wainscoting and put a small bead of silicone on the top gap. Third. You could have just moved the plug box out to the face of the backer board and eliminate having to use that stupid spacer. Forth. I wouldn't have used the backer in the first place. it makes the trim around the doorway look stupid. Doorway casing should always look more Grande than than the wall casing. Overall not terrible craftsmanship.
I'm not a linguistic expert, but I don't believe the wall treatment is called "wainscoating". The "cot' in the word is pronounced the same way one would call a temporary sleeping or baby's cot.
Bush league
First you need to learn how to pronounce the word of what you are building. What is that monstrosity you just affixed to your wall??? I guess you don’t like the low profile look, eh? lol. Maybe you could work in a secret stash spot in that enormous gap behind the wainscoting. Notice there is no a between the c and the t, so cannot be pronounced how you are pronouncing it.
Thnaks for the input Robert.