For everyone wondering about the test I showed where the DeWalt did a terrible job on limiting the torque, even at the lightest setting, I just shot a new video (ua-cam.com/video/DB6HFxejSsQ/v-deo.html) where I thoroughly tested five drills with big batteries, little batteries and in their high gears and low gears. The results were pretty crazy. The DeWalt DCD999 didn't do well. It's a fantastic drill overall, just not so great on limiting torque. And just to clarify, the Flex drill shown in this video was in all of the exact same settings. Big battery, 1st gear, and the clutch worked way better. Every drill is different.
You forgot the most important fact. The right bit to use with said clutches is pozidriv, which looks almost exactly like phillips, but has less tendency to cam out, so you do not need to push the drill like crazy. And you have to use not only pozidriv bit, but also pozidriv screws, otherwise your bit will cam out even more wildly. You can distinguish pozidriv bits/screws by second smaller cross at 45 degrees to the main cross. Or you can use torx etc. The phillips was actually invented when only plain drills were available, so your choice was either to tear the screw head away with said drill, or to let the bit cam out, so all freshly driven screws were "slightly" damaged by design. So actually at least four facts, so you can make another 20+ minute video from this.
Big batteries and small batteries-size has nothing to do with it. It’s the amount of Ah (Amp-hours) that’s important, as that’s where the power comes from-not the size of the battery.
One thing to also note is that DeWalt flexvolt batteries output more power voltage than their standard XR batteries. So the driver was made for those batteries in mind, the flexvolt will increase a bit more power for their impact drivers.
I'm a noob with a black and decker drill trying to do small projects around the house and this was wayyyy more informative than I expected it to be. Bonus points for being easy to understand. Good stuff.
I'm really sorry, but you don't seem to be very smart. To be honest, it's embarrassing when you have a device like this at home and don't understand what it does. Please take care of yourself, such devices can theoretically cause serious injuries if you don't have the mental capacity and don't know what you're doing.
@@kasauerkrautimgulasch It is clear the tester is not an engineer and thus all he will ever produce is subjective results which are meaningless. Ditto a lot of posters are equally clueless. Who buys DeWalt in the first place? It's all very well being "American" about the tool but there are better tools available, notably from Europe. We should not forget the "incompetent workman blaming his tool". Professional tradesmen simply adapt to what tool is available. I know I did. It's the hamfisted wannabe amateurs that concern themselves with power. They just don't have the finesse to use such powerful tools in the home environment. I ascribe some of the blame to caring wives who haven't twigged their husband is a very amateur clueless oaf and believes their nearest and dearest is another Norm Abrams or Tommy de Silva and thus buys them tools on the advice of some wily shopkeeper who simply wants to see a profit. I suspect too that these tyros don't trouble too much with reading the "destructions" either. Probably such stuff is best left to the "professionals" ... although that can be a lottery in itself.
I appreciate the tear down of the clutch system. I'm a commercial HVAC service tech. I have M18 tools for construction/installs, but most days I use the M12 hex-drive drill driver is my go to. Most panels are sheet metal and a hex-drive impact rounds out the holes. Using a clutched drill allows me to consistently remove and reinstall panels without needing to make new screw holes or us larger screws.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. So many "techs' have the nerve to complain about stripped screw holes while they're going from unit to unit holding an impact drill. Drives me NUTS. I show all my apprentices videos of impact drill internals as they're hammering on the shaft to show how much excessive force is being applied with them
For me, even more important using the clutch is driving bolts. The right clutch setting prevents the bolt head being snapped off, preventing the 5 minute job ballooning into a 5 hour job. Also, when driving bolts without the clutch (drill setting) you risk injuring your wrist when the torque counter rotation suddenly hits your hand once the bolt is fully seated.
@@rswow That's a totally valid question. Check out my video on Drill vs Driver. The torque on an impact driver is typically way higher than a drill because of the rotational impact. They're unmatched for driving bolts, lag screws and screws in general and they use less battery in the process. They're also smaller, lighter and they help avoid kickback. A drill with the clutch engaged, on the other hand, can be used for any delicate work (smaller screws) and for a lot of bigger jobs (bolts, lag screws) so long as they don't require a high torque situation. The clutch will automatically limit the torque of your drill's output but could save your wrist. If you need more torque than the highest clutch setting, that's where the impact driver is king. I have a little Milwaukee M12 Fuel Surge Driver (hydraulic impact driver) and I use it for all kinds of things but it's not as sensitive as a drill with a clutch. I hope that help.
That last one is why I never tighten or untighten bolts with a drill, I use an impact hammer or a simple wrench. Hurt my wrist (just stayed home for a day) when undoing a bolt. Bolt didn't want to move, but the drill did, and smashed my wrist right into the concrete
Wow!! I'm a 47-year-old man that has been using tools all my life. I've built tons of stuff, and I've never once questioned that clutch. I mean, I have felt it slip before, and I had the idea that it was a clutch of some kind, but I didn't understand what the purpose was. I always just put it on the drill setting and modulate the depth with triggered pressure and timing. Thank you so much, live and learn.
Very good for the newby to get a quick-start on using a drill. As a professional, having a whole host of drills, and varying over the years, clutches will vary from MFG to MFG, and then add in usage. Density of woods, age, and a host of other things add to the variance involved. Age and usage of the drill are definitely a factor. Simple situation. My favorite Bosch Impact and regular drill for cabinet installation, the drill finally gave-it-up, the new replacement was a WOW-Factor - quick learning curve. Last quick note. the hardware you are driving, I.E. type and make of the screw and pilots has a large factor in the overall success. As an over-review of this video, ... this guy is on his game. He's quick, to the point, doesn't drag out the obvious with idol chatter. As a professional woodworker (Certified KCMA - Old School) This guy is worth the listen, I may be looking for other videos. Keep hitting it guy ! GB
As a relative novice, I appreciate your professional opinion! There are so many people online (& especially on UA-cam) offering advice that ranges from poor through unhelpful & all the way up to concerningly wrong & actively dangerous, making it difficult just to *find* the genuinely useful information, let alone to accurately identify it as such. Comments like yours really do make a big difference. I'm more confident that I can trust this resource (& likely the other videos they've posted too, as you point out yourself). You also mention that it's probably going to be helpful for someone around my level of skill & knowledge, which makes me feel more comfortable & less intimidated. Considering that I'm in a position where I'm having to learn about a powertool from a UA-cam video, that's of considerable value too. Thanks for the help. I hope someone does you a similar kindness sometime soon :)
When I first learned to use the proper power setting, it blew my mind (in a good way). Instead of tapping the trigger on the impact, setting the ideal power setting on my driver gave me a perfect screw depth every time. Sooo much more reliable. Now all that's left is avoiding getting "screwed" if I ever buy into a brand for 18V handheld tools. *woodwork/electrical
Even if you buy into a brand, there are plenty of adapters out there - They're all the same batteries internally whether they're marketed as 18v or 20v, so you can put a Dewalt Battery on a Milwaukee/Makita/Flex or vice versa with no issues. The only caveat is to *never* charge a battery except on it's matched charger.
Finally, someone who showed how clutches work. The thing I learned is that the lowest # is the "softest" pressure and the highest # is the most powerful. So, I can see how each drill, is different and one cannot rely on a specific # to be the same as the same # on another drill. Good to know.
Never really use my clutch (except in my car) but my Q is, does it wear out the components since they separate and essentially slip. Great videos. Finally found you after all these years. Keep it up I think it’s important to learn and use things correctly instead of just buying more and more stuff like other utubers lean towards.
I've been using my Dewalt drill and driver for close to 10 years now, and I really like them. However, this explains why I've been using hand drivers for simple home repair. Thanks for the info!
I am so happy that you have put this together. I had absolutely no clue what I would want to set the “turning thing to”. I didn’t even know that I would not want to use the full power of the drill. I previously just would use the trigger button and as I got closer to the final spot on the screw and run the drill short amounts of time until the screw was where I wanted it to be. Thanks
@@erictjones If you want to learn about the absurdities of manufacturer liability (the bulk of the manual is just legal disclaimers of no value whatsoever)
I'm a lady who likes tools. I learned how to use a lot of them when I worked in a theme park fabricating props and painting murals & graphics. I worked with a carpenter on several projects and we created some fantastic props. There is a sign shop connected to the scenic shop and they use screw guns very often to install signs around the park. The only brands I've ever seen there is the 18vDewalt and Makita. I have a bunch of tools and two screw guns/drills. The stupid thing is, I never learned how to use the settings on them. For some reason, the carpenter and I never discussed it. I usually just use one setting which is really dumb I know. I'm glad you made this video and I just discovered your channel this morning. I don't work much with my tools any more but when I need to I need to use them properly like yesterday when I was installing two Fliplock door locks. Not as easy for me as the videos demonstrate.
I barely learned the difference between a drill and a driver a couple years ago...and the clutch thing I barely understood before. Gotta love these DIY videos
The difference is not just in the chuck of the drill but also the resistance of the substrate. Especially when you drill into wood, the density and resistance is not going to be consistent within the same piece. Less of an issue with metals, plastics, composites...
You're absolutely right. You can't ever count on two areas in a wooden board to have the same density, so this is an imperfect test. Hopefully it still gets the point across though.
On the Festool drill you're on the high torque mode. Slows the RPM down and ups the torque. Swap the settings and then use the clutch. My electronic clutch on my T15+ is phenomenal.
I use the clutch all the time on a drill! I've been repairing electronics for 10 years now, and there's an awful lot of things I take apart and put back together where having a power drill just makes sense. Not for the torque, but for the sheer number of screws. A PS5 has like 30 something little torx screws, and doing them by hand even with a ratcheting screwdriver always takes ages. I had never used power tools until I started looking into a drill for my line of work, and I quickly became familiar with the clutch collar. A correct setting ensures the bit will cam out when the screw has been adequately torqued.
Weird about that Dewalt. I’ve gone through a couple over the years and the clutch set to 1 was never like that. I’ve used them to install cabinet hardware without issue.
I’m terribly disappointed with my Dewalt cordless drill. Exactly as you said, clutch 1 will totally drive a screw too far or totally strip a Philips head screw before disengaging. As much as i want to like this drill, it’s just too aggressive. I’ve even sprained my wrist with a medium clutch setting driving lag bolts. Zero finesse!
I love my Dewalt drill but I usually only use it when I drilling into hard woods or if I need the battery to last for quite a while. I have a black and decker drill that I use for small projects, soft wood and something I’m not worried about the battery dying in middle of.
@@stefanbuscaylet… visit a Home Depot or Lowe’s or high hardware and try the 12v models. If you’re home updating the interior, they have plenty of power. I own Milwaukee, dewalt and metabo. For decks and framing, I’ll step up to 18v Ridgid since they are life time warranty and I have eight 4amp batteries.
I'm one of those people who only look at the instructions as a last resort, or never at all. :) Your video about those settings was very informative and so I thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
I'm with you, Jerry. I just try to figure things out but I often find that I'm missing out on some cool features until someone shows them to me :) Thanks for watching.
The amount of nuance and features you have missed out on in life is astounding. Thats like passing up free money; literally dozens of features or parameters of specifications you never even knew about just going to waste or being violated...and you're proud? You've had a full lifetime to do better and you chose to not.
Panasonic drills actually list the clutch steps in Nm. The standard 18v drill says: approx. 0.5 - 4.4 Nm (18 stages). I really like the low power torque for fine work, use Bosch for everything else.
Great job. I've had a DeWalt electric drill for a bit more than a year. Confession: I've never taken time to examine this important feature. Your demo and explanations were excellent. I passed this on to my brother. I'm glad I met ya. I'll be back.
I have a DeWALT DCD996, and I love it. I have found that lower drill speed results in higher torque, even with the clutch settings. Therefore, on drill speed 3, setting 1, the clutch barely drives a screw at all. On drill speed 1, the clutch is much more aggressive. I notice that you have the DeWALT on drill speed 1, making for much more aggressive torque.
Excellent video. This is why I use a gyroscopic screwdriver for driving screws instead of drill with a clutch. I find the clutch on the DeWalt gyroscopic screwdriver to apply much less torque at lower settings which allows greater control. And with anything you're assembling from furniture to plumbing, you don't want to overtorque.
What a great straight forward video. No flashy distracting graphics, silly over-the-top humor, or padding for the time algorithm. Clean presentation and useful information. Thank you. Subscribed.
I've been using drills since the days of huge NiCad batteries and man have clutches improved! Great summary as I've never tried disassembling one to figure out how it works. Thanks!!!
Subscribed as a mother of 5 who love's diys. I have been a drill owner for 8 years now as it is the only tool (besides a hammer and screwdriver) that I own and know about, well at least I thought I did. If I have not found your channel there is no way that I would have known that I have been using my drill the wrong way. Wish I could go back and recreate my diys the correct way using the correct mode and clutch setting. Thank you for your well explained videos so glad I found your channel. I will continue to follow, watch, and learn as I buy new tools or maybe even win some 😊
Throw away your screwdriver and hammer, and use your drill to drive screws and hit anything with it. All men know that any tool is as good as a hammer...😂😂😂. Greetings.
I had some "ikea" style dressers and just modulating the trigger was enough and fast enough for me. Full send until the moment before it went into the wood-stuff, then back off and slow it down. Just snug it. If I was mass producing, I wouldn't want to have to manipulate the device like that all the time.
I use a Festool CXS for Ikea cabinets, the clutch is gentle and it's great. I usually get the tightness just right around 6 for most screws and up to 9 for big ones. Also, Ikea uses Posidrive. Do yourself a service and get some PZ2 bits, life changer. 😊
@@BenjaminCronce I used to modulate the trigger as well, but I had to put a bunch of donated furniture together for a fund raiser, and setting the clutch was definitely the better choice. Even with the clutch at ‘1’ on my hyper tough drill, which ratchets for almost anything, I still had to modulate some screws. The wood in cheaper furniture just doesn’t want to grab screws sometimes.
Instead of making "1" setting, get a better drill. I assembled the whole flat with Ikea furniture with a relative cheap Lux-tool drill. It had very sensitive clutch, and it was able to turn any type of screws with exactly needed force. No screwdriver after!
I'm a weekend DIYer and I have noticed the different clutch settings on my Milwaukee cordless drill. Hate to admit this but it wasn't until this video, I knew what the heck those numbers on the dial were. Thank you!
incredible video, i maintain commercial equipment for work and the amount of people that just use the strongest setting for even 1/4" machinery screws blows my mind. Doing the lords work
very helpful, tend to use my Impact Driver for everything because it is smaller, lighter and more comfortable but yeah sometimes you need to break out the Big Guns for certain jobs
One of the best videos I've ever seen explaining and demonstrating the clutch feature. 👍🏻👍🏻💯 Also, Flex aside from its heft in size is an incredibly good brand. Their tools and battery tech are insane. Milwaukee is just raw power 🔥 and Dewalt just no longer wants to disappoint their customers.
I have the Milwaukee Fuel cordless set, and it's a dream. I am a timberframer in Brazil (I am a Canadian that is moving down here), and I can sink a 1" auger bit into any species of wood here, including camara and massaranduba, which are both almost twice as dense as oak. I just put the drill into "drill" setting (who knew? haha) and click back to the #1 setting, slowing down the rotation, and it just melts through it.
I'm far from a #hailcorporate guy, but Milwaukee is a brand I am passionate about and I'm not even a professional, just an amateur car enthusiast and occasional home DIYer. Their products blow everything else out of the water, to the point where I took the time to sell my initial dewalt tools on Facebook and reinvested that money into Milwaukee equivalents. They have 100% earned my business for life
Way back before impact drivers were around, I used drills to drive screws. I did that for years. When I first saw an impact driver at work, I was sold and went out and bought one right away. I have rarely used a drill to drive screws since. I do have a 10 volt Makita impact driver for smaller screws and some 18 volt ones for bigger screws, lag screws and bolts. I drive a lot of screws but I never use a drill. That's just me.
What you use depends on the work you do. Impacts are good for most general labor but a drill is good to have in case those few cases where impacts can't cut it
I have used my DeWalt (same model as the one you used here), but I noticed the clutch settings act upon the fasteners differently depending on the battery I'm using. If I use a Flex-Volt battery, I get similar 'over-driven' results as you did. So I tried the other batt's and sure enough, the clutch acted like the other driver/drills I have. Then I used the normal (not Flex-Volt) when it was getting drained from level 2 to level 1 charge status, and that produced less force so it sunk the screws less than a fully charged battery. I believe the clutch settings are arbitrary for the same reason, too many outside forces are possible to determine one number = one, consistant result. Don't get me started about the status of the driver tip, or quality and hardness of the fastener! The other factor I've learn over the years is material deviations, even in the same piece. That Douglas Fir you were driving into...as soon as you get within an inch of the knots, the wood becomes much more dense, and the screws will not go in nearly as far given the same setting. Even when driving into the darker lines where there are no knots, the slow-growth lines are much more dense... I'm pretty sure most people have figured that out, but I teach woodworking and like to show the younger students things which will make their experiences more fulfilling, their projects turn out more satisfying. Personally, I use the Milwaulkee hydraulic driver most of the time to drive fasteners because I twist the heads off screws using anything else. I forget the official name of it, but I know it works far more effeciently because the impact upon the fastener is not as harsh, yet it drives with sufficient force. Thanks for the presentation. I realize not ever little aspect of a subject can be included.
Great points here. The Milwaukee Surge driver is the one you’re referring to and it’s my go-to tool as well. Easily my favorite driver to use. I love the battery insights here as well. I’ll have to do some experimenting with those DeWalts to see how that plays out. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I noticed this battery effect after buying a dewalt 20 volt impact / driver. While I do do some around the house 'large' scale DIY stuff on occasion, the vast majority of my DIY time is spent on small / medium scale projects like props and tech toys, so I ended up also buying a 12volt dewalt drill too just so I could have a 'delicate/precision' general use drill for smaller scale tasks that don't call for the 20volt drivers' "I-will-drive-this-or-die-trying" energy.
Glad to help you try to hit 1 million! I've been buying more power tools and with more DIY at home needed. My dad knows a ton and has helped me a lot but he doesn't communicate everything as quickly and effectively as you do. Thank you!
A point that I would like to bring up with drills with mechanical clutches is if you are having trouble getting a drill bit to stay tight in the chuck try setting the clutch to a light setting then tighten the drill bit in the chuck by hand then hold the chuck with one hand and run the drill while holding the chuck and let the clutch slip and click, this put an intermittent force on the chuck that helps tighten the the drill bit in the cluck.
@@dirtrider88 Yes I know that is how it is suppose to work. But for some people they can't tighten by hand and the ratcheting of the clutch tightens the chuck more.
Sometimes, you don't even know that you don't know until, a video like this pops up. Nowadays, the text in manuals is so tiny, poorly written and off-putting that I just assumed the numbers indicated power. Thank you for drilling into us such simple, yet overlooked, important aspects about drills!
@@larrybud no, i was refering about the top speed setting it affects the torque ouput on the clutch, so 1 in the clutch and 3 in the top( faster rpms) is the lowest torque so you dont strip the fasteners
@@dmoqppsoysc Interesting I always found the slower RPM / speed setting tends to sit the screw head a little higher, If I drive it hard and fast on 2 it'll sink deeper down before the clutch slips at a given torque setting. I'm only talking a half or even quarter rotation of the fixing in the difference but I've noticed it on literally thousands of screws that I've put in on both my combi drills.
Very informative video. I have 2 Dewalt drills, the clutch doesn't work effectively in 1st gear. The clutch works well in 2nd gear which is counter intuative.
@@BedjamRiveraI feel that way about everything. I’m such a nerd. I can’t help it, I just love learning. I barely watch regular TV or movies. I’m almost always more excited to tune in to this channel or some of the others I subscribe to, or listen to an audiobook. (I have a visual impairment, so I don’t read print as much as I used to). So, yeah, I definitely agree.
@@LRN2DIY You're right about what you said early on in the video. They don't tell you in the manuals what all the clutch settings mean. I have 3 power drills and none of the manuals tell you much. However, all mine have two speeds (set via a slider at the top of the drill. Either 1 or 2). Do these speed settings have any bearing on the clutch?
I've noticed that drills with an electronic clutch, the 1 setting is still way too strong still. But with a physical clutch it works much better with delicate work. The advantage of the electronic clutch is the tool is shorter
On modern drills the power settings are for different torque applications. I haven't seem a drill im years where 1 isnt the strongest setting. This makes sense. Low speed = high torque For the purposes of this test, you would have seen better results using a higher "power setting" Staying on 1 ensured you had maximum torque. Low setting = drilling holes High setting = driving fasteners The only exception to this rule is when they put a dedicated "low" mode for electronics or plastic. You understand the clutch, but not the power settings. Ever driven a stick shift? What gear do you use to go up a hill or gain more torque?
The engagement and disengagement of mechanical clutches was taught to me best when I learned how child-safety caps on medicine bottles prevented actuation without a certain amount of down-pressure. What separates that from these drills is that, while a medicine cap's static friction is practically constant and the down-pressure you apply is variable, the down-pressures given by the settings on a drill's clutch are constant, and it's the torque demanded by the fastener or bit that varies, so the drill actuates until it reaches the point at which the torque necessary exceeds what the down-pressure is capable of overcoming, where it then slips. Very cool, Kanye.
Great video! I’ll definitely be using these tips. Just an FYI, your audio issues seem to be being caused by “auto leveling” from whatever you’re using to record the audio. Basically the mix is always trying to keep things in a certain range and will either amplify or quiet down on its own. I’d recommend a zoom H1 and a lav mic, set the levels manually and you’ll get consistent audio levels.
Wow! The uncalibrated slip clutch for screwing screws in .. uncalibrated! Congratulations, very smart indeed and very informative. Now I know I shouldn't expect exact science where one is not to be expected.
Keep in mind that the model he used is a hammer drill and is going to have more torque than a standard drill. I use a regular DeWalt drill and have not had that problem.
No, its not useless. There is another switch on top of the drill, for high and low, has an effect on torque and the clutch. I have a 20v dewalt hammer drill and it works just fine for small home projects. Usually around 5-7 on mine for driving screws into predrilled drywall and studs or those oh so lovely plastic anchors.
@@spud69g So it doesn't hammer everything deep into wood on the low setting, like he showed in the video? Also, how does 'small home projects' factor into it?
@@imacmill when set properly it will not do what was shown. In small home projects where materials are generally softer, use of as much power and torque is not needed vs industrial where harder and thicker materials are usually used.
So it's torque setting. This could have been a 4 second video. I wanted to know because I never understood what it was but I guess it was important for me to watch a 14 minute video to get this simple answer: it's a torque setting.
Friend, congratulations on your channel, it's really great. But allow me to add some knowledge. You are using the Dewalt DCD996 wrongly. At torque level 1 and speed 1, it is very strong as you showed, but if you put torque level 1 and speed level 3, you will see that it will have even more torque options than flex or any other. I explain and show this in detail in my video 18 SPEEDS! THE STRONGEST 18V DEWALT DCD996 IMPACT SCREWDRIVER/DRILL SOLD IN BRAZIL ua-cam.com/video/y_l1wX6B1rY/v-deo.html Many people don't know that this Dewalt multiplies torques along with 3 speeds. Hope this helps. Best Regards
This is interesting. I've got "only" a Black+Decker cordless drill that I bought maybe a year ago. It replaced a corded drill that I had from my dad that was maybe a SEARS brand or something? I clicked on this video because I recognized this as a feature on my drill as well, but I've never messed with it. I only change from drill bit, to countersink, to driver for the screw. I don't use it for any professional stuff, just use at home from time to time, but also whenever I'm building on stuff for a model railroad layout, so I've been drilling and driving quite a bit more in the last couple weeks just getting in to a new house. Thanks for sharing!
Amigo, parabéns pelo seu canal é realmente ótimo. Porém me permita agregar um conhecimento. Você está usando a Dewalt DCD996 de forma equivocada. Eno nível 1 de torque e na velocidade 1, ela é bem forte como você mostrou, mas se colocar nível 1 de torque e nível 3 de velocidade, verá que ela ficará com ainda mais opções de torque do que a flex ou qualquer outra. Explico e mostro isso em detalhes no meu vídeo 18 VELOCIDADES! A MAIS FORTE PARAFUSADEIRA/FURADEIRA DE IMPACTO 18V DEWALT DCD996 VENDIDA NO BRASIL ua-cam.com/video/y_l1wX6B1rY/v-deo.html Muitas pessoas não sabem que essa Dewalt multiplica os torques juntamente com as 3 velocidades. Espero ter ajudado. Abraços do Brasil 🇧🇷😃🎬
While I’ve utilized torque settings on my drills, actually how precise it can be blew my mind. Bosch impact drivers have a ratcheting system so fasteners never get overtightened. Where it matters I always drill a countersink hole with a bit, we all know thats cleaner. In the theater we always just used the driver bit to start that off. Always good to pick up helpful hint, thanks for the video!!!
Good video!! I like your tips and tricks and the depth of your explanations! 1 thing: Check your volume settings, it changes during the video. The volume is very low most of the video but sometimes it is at the correct volume. Tip: you can make your volume at the same hight with you editing software 👍🏻 so it is always at the correct volume. Even if the mic sometimes has trouble picking it up.
Dude. Thanks for this particular video. I just now stumbled upon your channel because of this topic. I love having this knowledge now. I subbed to help your cause even though I see you’re over 1 million. Well done. I’ll be watching more now that I know about you.
This was very informative. I tend to use an impact driver for screws rather than a drill, and sometimes push it past the point where it meets that resistance. I'm now wondering if this is actually damaging the driver, and whether i'd be better off using a drill in 'drill' mode?
I bought a Black & Decker drill back in 2009. It sits in the closet outside all the time, rain or shine out there, and it works and works and works. The clutch is gradual and predictable, no issues whatsoever. I didn't want to be cheap, that's why I paid $32 for it ;) The cheapest was $25.
Long time handiperson, but fairly clueless on drill settings (and I know it). I really appreciate the overview information and I did learn a lot. However, I now realize I could still use a more basic lesson. My drill, an old Ryobi, has a 1 - 2 setting, plus 24 more settings, which I now know are clutch settings, on the collar. I never really understood what each setting is for, though I at least now have an idea of how to test them and figure it out. I’m going to go looking for a how to use your drill for the complete newbie. I always try to do CLA and/or repair when something breaks and I have been having trouble tightening and loosening the clutch. So I’ll also be looking for info on how to maintain my drill. Thanks for the information!
As a very amateur DIYer that does odds and ends jobs (Mostly repair/craft projects for my girlfriend and her mother), this was a highly informative video. Definitely subbed, as I feel I'll be needing some advice on future projects. I picked up a black and decker drill on holiday sale from amazon, and have only really used it for fast assembly of furniture and whatnot, but never really understood the numbering on it. A quick question I have though, does the same principal apply in reverse, i.e., does a higher clutch setting put more pressure on stuck screws and bolts to get them to release from a rusted/deformed/stuck mounting? I understand, if so, that you'd still want to start light and increase power until it popped loose, or risk breaking the bolt head/stripping the screw.
just found your channel and glad I did... my DeWalt drivers are always on high torque and my fasteners always go in kinda deep. I never thought of going to a lower number now I'll drop down a notch or two when I'm building stuff. TANX
Interesting video. I have a Milwaukee drill and impact driver. I never use the drill to drive screws. That job belongs to the impact driver. My drill only has the drill bit printed on the clutch, no hammer, just the different clutch settings. One thing I don’t understand about these drills is the switch on top that has two settings, 1 or 2. Unless I missed that in this video, what is that switch for? I can’t seem to feel any difference whether it is set on 1 or 2.
Well one old man has just learnt something at 75 years of age, i have never understood what the settings mean but after your showing off the screws being screwed down i now have some ideas; great explanations i have now subscribed you never know one old dog can still learn when i thought i new it all lol.
first video i watch from you, and happy to see you hit the 1m, i reached the age of my life where i am trying to gather useful info on being more handy and understanding tools, that we usually use 5% of what they can actually offer thanks a lot!
This guy is definitely a spokesman for flex tools. I own a Dewalt drill with a variable clutch a had to turn it to 5 before it would drive the screw all the way down then slipping.
Very comprehensive, to be sure, you did a good job. Thanks for the info on the electronic clutches, new one to me! My Mikita cordless clutch started slipping, I've used it a lot. Are the clutches replaceable? Is it worth my time & expense? I love my cordless...
An excellent video. Some of the differences are the power of the drill. Your heavy duty (industrial) sometimes has too much power; for delicate work some of the home-use drills are weaker, thus more delicate. That's important when doing work such as assembling metal buildings. Your note about the impact driver is a good one, too. Those can be useful when working with pressure treated and/or old wood, while the drill worked better attaching sheet rock to 40 yo wood studs.
I use my drill to drill, I use my impact driver (M18 Fuel gen 3 and 4) for driving all fasteners. The impact driver is small more compact, powerful enough for any project and I feel that I have more control and precision.
m18 fuel gen 3 Impact driver is too strong for little screws. I own it and it just over goes it. I am just thinking of buying the 12v gen 4 impact hoping it won't do it.
I typically use the clutch for taping out holes machine thread screws. The smaller taps like 6/32, 8/32 and 10/32 will snap with little torque. I also use it with my unibit and other metal drilling bits to keep it from kicking too hard when it gets caught.
It's definitely time to "pull that trigger" and get that DeWalt cordless drill (this Christmas) I've been putting off for years now. Right now I have an old Craftsman (20+ years old) that still works fine, but it's bulky, corded, with a keyed chuck that sometimes doesn't grab on the teeth well, and has no clutch for torque settings.
Wish this video had come out earlier. A year ago I stripped multiple screws because of incorrect drill settings when attempting to install dimmer switches around the house. It was so bad that I could not remove the bad screws even with specialized tool kits. What finally worked for me was drilling thru the screw up to 1/4th of its height with a 1/8" drill bit and then reversing the drilling direction, which caused the drill bit to unscrew the damaged screw. Spent hours doing it.
I pretty well never would want to grab my drill over my impact unless I'm actually drilling something. I can definitely see why you would want to use the clutch on your drill though. Sure you could finesse a few screws, but setting and forgetting your clutch for a big project actually sounds really nice. That said, full beans on the impact is always so satisfying.
Why am I just now seeing this!? 😂 I did a lot of odd jobs as a kid to make money on weekens or school holidays. It started off cutting grass but eventually evolved into cleaning garages, spraying down hornet nets, helping with DIY projects, etc. One of my favorite customers did a lot of carpentry and let me handle the simple stuff like putting in or removing screws. I didn't know what a clutch collar was, but I learned real quick how to set it after stripping out a few screws and rounding off a bolt.
I want to point out one flaw in your video. You kept mentioning "the least torque" the drills are able to produce, but most drills have variable speed triggers or a speed selector switch. At lower speeds you'll have the clutch be more sensitive. I know this is true for both DeWalt and Milwaukee drills. Going easy on the trigger for more delicate jobs is a must.
I have DeWalt drills. I don't use the clutch because as you saw it does not do much of anything unless you are also switched into 2 or 3 speed setting. (drive just about everything with impact driver) I do have a Milwaukee drill and driver set that I have not really ever used. I should try them out see if the drill clutch is any better. Thank you for this video.
Funny, I always wondered what thing does. Never bothered to look it up, I dont know why. Now I came across your video and learned more about clutches on drills that I ever needed to know :P
The clutch on my admittedly budget Erbauer makes my job as a bike mechanic way easier. 6 brake disc bolts take an age to remove and reinstall by hand, cracking them free with a hex or torx key then banging them out with the drill massively cuts the working time on those bolts, the clutch ensures the bolts don't get messed up or worse the hub threads get shredded (a pack of 6 bolts is £10-20, a new hub is at least 5x that), hand tighten when in place. Saving a few minutes on tasks like that opens up more time to get things properly set up, better to spend 5 minutes on bolts to spare 25 for caliper alignment than vice versa. Also handy for bolting together flat pack furniture.
Comes in really hand with so much inexpensive pre-fab cabinets and shelving available. I've gotten really good at dropping it to a 1 on the first screw, to ensure I don't just totally bore out the screw holes. Once dialed in, makes assembly so much easier.
For everyone wondering about the test I showed where the DeWalt did a terrible job on limiting the torque, even at the lightest setting, I just shot a new video (ua-cam.com/video/DB6HFxejSsQ/v-deo.html) where I thoroughly tested five drills with big batteries, little batteries and in their high gears and low gears. The results were pretty crazy. The DeWalt DCD999 didn't do well. It's a fantastic drill overall, just not so great on limiting torque. And just to clarify, the Flex drill shown in this video was in all of the exact same settings. Big battery, 1st gear, and the clutch worked way better. Every drill is different.
You forgot the most important fact. The right bit to use with said clutches is pozidriv, which looks almost exactly like phillips, but has less tendency to cam out, so you do not need to push the drill like crazy. And you have to use not only pozidriv bit, but also pozidriv screws, otherwise your bit will cam out even more wildly. You can distinguish pozidriv bits/screws by second smaller cross at 45 degrees to the main cross. Or you can use torx etc. The phillips was actually invented when only plain drills were available, so your choice was either to tear the screw head away with said drill, or to let the bit cam out, so all freshly driven screws were "slightly" damaged by design. So actually at least four facts, so you can make another 20+ minute video from this.
Big batteries and small batteries-size has nothing to do with it. It’s the amount of Ah (Amp-hours) that’s important, as that’s where the power comes from-not the size of the battery.
here you go @BradMosch_engineer - some more wisdom for the "expert" - make sure your batteries are big ones - hahaha
Do you not think different woods, hardwood would be of use for the clutch?
One thing to also note is that DeWalt flexvolt batteries output more power voltage than their standard XR batteries. So the driver was made for those batteries in mind, the flexvolt will increase a bit more power for their impact drivers.
I'm a noob with a black and decker drill trying to do small projects around the house and this was wayyyy more informative than I expected it to be. Bonus points for being easy to understand. Good stuff.
Quit lying, this video was dumb.
I'm really sorry, but you don't seem to be very smart.
To be honest, it's embarrassing when you have a device like this at home and don't understand what it does.
Please take care of yourself, such devices can theoretically cause serious injuries if you don't have the mental capacity and don't know what you're doing.
@@kasauerkrautimgulasch Bro what are you on about
@@kasauerkrautimgulasch um. Your comment is uncalled for, and it brings nothing to the conversation. Hope your comment gets deleted.
@@kasauerkrautimgulasch
It is clear the tester is not an engineer and thus all he will ever produce is subjective results which are meaningless.
Ditto a lot of posters are equally clueless.
Who buys DeWalt in the first place?
It's all very well being "American" about the tool but there are better tools available, notably from Europe.
We should not forget the "incompetent workman blaming his tool".
Professional tradesmen simply adapt to what tool is available. I know I did.
It's the hamfisted wannabe amateurs that concern themselves with power.
They just don't have the finesse to use such powerful tools in the home environment.
I ascribe some of the blame to caring wives who haven't twigged their husband is a very amateur clueless oaf and believes their nearest and dearest is another Norm Abrams or Tommy de Silva and thus buys them tools on the advice of some wily shopkeeper who simply wants to see a profit.
I suspect too that these tyros don't trouble too much with reading the "destructions" either.
Probably such stuff is best left to the "professionals" ... although that can be a lottery in itself.
I appreciate the tear down of the clutch system. I'm a commercial HVAC service tech. I have M18 tools for construction/installs, but most days I use the M12 hex-drive drill driver is my go to. Most panels are sheet metal and a hex-drive impact rounds out the holes. Using a clutched drill allows me to consistently remove and reinstall panels without needing to make new screw holes or us larger screws.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. So many "techs' have the nerve to complain about stripped screw holes while they're going from unit to unit holding an impact drill. Drives me NUTS. I show all my apprentices videos of impact drill internals as they're hammering on the shaft to show how much excessive force is being applied with them
I get it lol. Drives@@rayzerot
For me, even more important using the clutch is driving bolts. The right clutch setting prevents the bolt head being snapped off, preventing the 5 minute job ballooning into a 5 hour job.
Also, when driving bolts without the clutch (drill setting) you risk injuring your wrist when the torque counter rotation suddenly hits your hand once the bolt is fully seated.
Great points. That clutch is a bolt saver and a wrist saver at the same time.
@@LRN2DIY So why did I buy a drill with clutch AND a separate driver then? Power-tool newby here.
@@rswow That's a totally valid question. Check out my video on Drill vs Driver. The torque on an impact driver is typically way higher than a drill because of the rotational impact. They're unmatched for driving bolts, lag screws and screws in general and they use less battery in the process. They're also smaller, lighter and they help avoid kickback. A drill with the clutch engaged, on the other hand, can be used for any delicate work (smaller screws) and for a lot of bigger jobs (bolts, lag screws) so long as they don't require a high torque situation. The clutch will automatically limit the torque of your drill's output but could save your wrist. If you need more torque than the highest clutch setting, that's where the impact driver is king. I have a little Milwaukee M12 Fuel Surge Driver (hydraulic impact driver) and I use it for all kinds of things but it's not as sensitive as a drill with a clutch. I hope that help.
That last one is why I never tighten or untighten bolts with a drill, I use an impact hammer or a simple wrench. Hurt my wrist (just stayed home for a day) when undoing a bolt. Bolt didn't want to move, but the drill did, and smashed my wrist right into the concrete
Try using an impact driver, there is far less kickback, much easier on the hands.
Wow!! I'm a 47-year-old man that has been using tools all my life. I've built tons of stuff, and I've never once questioned that clutch. I mean, I have felt it slip before, and I had the idea that it was a clutch of some kind, but I didn't understand what the purpose was. I always just put it on the drill setting and modulate the depth with triggered pressure and timing.
Thank you so much, live and learn.
🤣
Here is a 44-year old who had less clue then :)
Same. I have a dewalt corded drill and all the numbers basically behaved the same. So yep, just modulate the trigger :)
10:41 I am amazed how you actually manage to set the drills up in a way that makes it look like more like images inserted than actual tools
so true
Very good for the newby to get a quick-start on using a drill.
As a professional, having a whole host of drills, and varying over the years, clutches will vary from MFG to MFG, and then add in usage.
Density of woods, age, and a host of other things add to the variance involved.
Age and usage of the drill are definitely a factor. Simple situation. My favorite Bosch Impact and regular drill for cabinet installation, the drill finally gave-it-up, the new replacement was a WOW-Factor - quick learning curve.
Last quick note. the hardware you are driving, I.E. type and make of the screw and pilots has a large factor in the overall success.
As an over-review of this video, ... this guy is on his game. He's quick, to the point, doesn't drag out the obvious with idol chatter.
As a professional woodworker (Certified KCMA - Old School) This guy is worth the listen, I may be looking for other videos.
Keep hitting it guy !
GB
"clutches will vary from MFG to MFG" - doesn't vary then?
*idle
As a relative novice, I appreciate your professional opinion!
There are so many people online (& especially on UA-cam) offering advice that ranges from poor through unhelpful & all the way up to concerningly wrong & actively dangerous, making it difficult just to *find* the genuinely useful information, let alone to accurately identify it as such.
Comments like yours really do make a big difference. I'm more confident that I can trust this resource (& likely the other videos they've posted too, as you point out yourself). You also mention that it's probably going to be helpful for someone around my level of skill & knowledge, which makes me feel more comfortable & less intimidated. Considering that I'm in a position where I'm having to learn about a powertool from a UA-cam video, that's of considerable value too.
Thanks for the help. I hope someone does you a similar kindness sometime soon :)
When I first learned to use the proper power setting, it blew my mind (in a good way). Instead of tapping the trigger on the impact, setting the ideal power setting on my driver gave me a perfect screw depth every time. Sooo much more reliable. Now all that's left is avoiding getting "screwed" if I ever buy into a brand for 18V handheld tools. *woodwork/electrical
Haha, right on! Yeah, knowing your tools makes all the difference for sure.
Even if you buy into a brand, there are plenty of adapters out there - They're all the same batteries internally whether they're marketed as 18v or 20v, so you can put a Dewalt Battery on a Milwaukee/Makita/Flex or vice versa with no issues. The only caveat is to *never* charge a battery except on it's matched charger.
@@SamuraiJeff ya you got that right. dewalts 20v is actually 18 and the 60v is 54
Finally, someone who showed how clutches work. The thing I learned is that the lowest # is the "softest" pressure and the highest # is the most powerful. So, I can see how each drill, is different and one cannot rely on a specific # to be the same as the same # on another drill. Good to know.
Never really use my clutch (except in my car) but my Q is, does it wear out the components since they separate and essentially slip. Great videos. Finally found you after all these years. Keep it up I think it’s important to learn and use things correctly instead of just buying more and more stuff like other utubers lean towards.
I've been using my Dewalt drill and driver for close to 10 years now, and I really like them. However, this explains why I've been using hand drivers for simple home repair. Thanks for the info!
I feel that, my DeWalt drill makes me feel like I'm a total hack with its tendency to mangle stuff
I am so happy that you have put this together. I had absolutely no clue what I would want to set the “turning thing to”. I didn’t even know that I would not want to use the full power of the drill. I previously just would use the trigger button and as I got closer to the final spot on the screw and run the drill short amounts of time until the screw was where I wanted it to be. Thanks
I'm so glad it was helpful! And thanks for taking the time to comment and share too!
Reading the instruction manual that comes with your power tools is also a great place to learn!
@@erictjones If you want to learn about the absurdities of manufacturer liability (the bulk of the manual is just legal disclaimers of no value whatsoever)
@@erictjones many people using drills borrowed from other people and nobody keeps the instruction manual
Of course!@@FusRoDarshinae
I'm a lady who likes tools. I learned how to use a lot of them when I worked in a theme park fabricating props and painting murals & graphics. I worked with a carpenter on several projects and we created some fantastic props. There is a sign shop connected to the scenic shop and they use screw guns very often to install signs around the park. The only brands I've ever seen there is the 18vDewalt and Makita.
I have a bunch of tools and two screw guns/drills. The stupid thing is, I never learned how to use the settings on them. For some reason, the carpenter and I never discussed it. I usually just use one setting which is really dumb I know.
I'm glad you made this video and I just discovered your channel this morning.
I don't work much with my tools any more but when I need to I need to use them properly like yesterday when I was installing two Fliplock door locks. Not as easy for me as the videos demonstrate.
so in essence you dont read the instruction books?
I barely learned the difference between a drill and a driver a couple years ago...and the clutch thing I barely understood before. Gotta love these DIY videos
The difference is not just in the chuck of the drill but also the resistance of the substrate. Especially when you drill into wood, the density and resistance is not going to be consistent within the same piece. Less of an issue with metals, plastics, composites...
You're absolutely right. You can't ever count on two areas in a wooden board to have the same density, so this is an imperfect test. Hopefully it still gets the point across though.
Just commented on how he should’ve done multiple screws per clutch setting
@@michaelwoish5962 Todd at Project farm would. ;) infact Im sure he did a cordless drill comparison vid.
Yep.. Just like I said when he first started putting in the screws and the knot of the wood was there.. lol.
@@LRN2DIY Ah, the gum veins in spotted gum...
On the Festool drill you're on the high torque mode. Slows the RPM down and ups the torque. Swap the settings and then use the clutch. My electronic clutch on my T15+ is phenomenal.
He clearly did not know how to use the festool. 😂
I use the clutch all the time on a drill! I've been repairing electronics for 10 years now, and there's an awful lot of things I take apart and put back together where having a power drill just makes sense. Not for the torque, but for the sheer number of screws. A PS5 has like 30 something little torx screws, and doing them by hand even with a ratcheting screwdriver always takes ages.
I had never used power tools until I started looking into a drill for my line of work, and I quickly became familiar with the clutch collar. A correct setting ensures the bit will cam out when the screw has been adequately torqued.
Weird about that Dewalt. I’ve gone through a couple over the years and the clutch set to 1 was never like that. I’ve used them to install cabinet hardware without issue.
Some folks have mentioned that the battery type and the gear you use both play a big part so I’ll have to experiment with this.
I’m terribly disappointed with my Dewalt cordless drill. Exactly as you said, clutch 1 will totally drive a screw too far or totally strip a Philips head screw before disengaging. As much as i want to like this drill, it’s just too aggressive. I’ve even sprained my wrist with a medium clutch setting driving lag bolts. Zero finesse!
I love my Dewalt drill but I usually only use it when I drilling into hard woods or if I need the battery to last for quite a while. I have a black and decker drill that I use for small projects, soft wood and something I’m not worried about the battery dying in middle of.
@@stefanbuscaylet… visit a Home Depot or Lowe’s or high hardware and try the 12v models. If you’re home updating the interior, they have plenty of power. I own Milwaukee, dewalt and metabo. For decks and framing, I’ll step up to 18v Ridgid since they are life time warranty and I have eight 4amp batteries.
Weird, mine on setting 1 will drive only a small screw with predrilled hole flush, just tight enough
I'm one of those people who only look at the instructions as a last resort, or never at all. :) Your video about those settings was very informative and so I thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
I'm with you, Jerry. I just try to figure things out but I often find that I'm missing out on some cool features until someone shows them to me :) Thanks for watching.
The amount of nuance and features you have missed out on in life is astounding. Thats like passing up free money; literally dozens of features or parameters of specifications you never even knew about just going to waste or being violated...and you're proud? You've had a full lifetime to do better and you chose to not.
Jem I like your attitude 👍🏻
I've never read a drill manual and I still knew what that was for.
Ditto
Panasonic drills actually list the clutch steps in Nm. The standard 18v drill says: approx. 0.5 - 4.4 Nm (18 stages). I really like the low power torque for fine work, use Bosch for everything else.
Great job. I've had a DeWalt electric drill for a bit more than a year. Confession: I've never taken time to examine this important feature. Your demo and explanations were excellent. I passed this on to my brother. I'm glad I met ya. I'll be back.
I have a DeWALT DCD996, and I love it. I have found that lower drill speed results in higher torque, even with the clutch settings. Therefore, on drill speed 3, setting 1, the clutch barely drives a screw at all. On drill speed 1, the clutch is much more aggressive. I notice that you have the DeWALT on drill speed 1, making for much more aggressive torque.
Perfect, i figured out it with my DeWalt. Just few people know that.
Excellent video. This is why I use a gyroscopic screwdriver for driving screws instead of drill with a clutch. I find the clutch on the DeWalt gyroscopic screwdriver to apply much less torque at lower settings which allows greater control. And with anything you're assembling from furniture to plumbing, you don't want to overtorque.
He was also using it on low 1 instead of high 1, rookie mistake
What a great straight forward video. No flashy distracting graphics, silly over-the-top humor, or padding for the time algorithm. Clean presentation and useful information. Thank you. Subscribed.
Hear, hear !
yeah because helpful graphics and comedic relief are notoriously horrible
@@connorcolumbia5398 Thank you for providing comedy relief. But you prove your own point
He only has the DeWalt he used first with the conveniently faulty clutch and then uses his flex with the plug in for Amazon. Just an informercial
And no showing expensive tools.... just tools that work
I've been using drills since the days of huge NiCad batteries and man have clutches improved! Great summary as I've never tried disassembling one to figure out how it works. Thanks!!!
Thanks so much! And thanks for watching too.
Work on normalizing your audio levels. Sometimes you're yelling, other times you're whispering.
Agreed, look into audio compression.
I watched adds to upvote this
Nope..
i can hear him speak just fine, and my wife says I'm deaf! 😅😂🤣
UA-cam comments… 🙄
Subscribed as a mother of 5 who love's diys. I have been a drill owner for 8 years now as it is the only tool (besides a hammer and screwdriver) that I own and know about, well at least I thought I did. If I have not found your channel there is no way that I would have known that I have been using my drill the wrong way. Wish I could go back and recreate my diys the correct way using the correct mode and clutch setting. Thank you for your well explained videos so glad I found your channel. I will continue to follow, watch, and learn as I buy new tools or maybe even win some 😊
Throw away your screwdriver and hammer, and use your drill to drive screws and hit anything with it. All men know that any tool is as good as a hammer...😂😂😂. Greetings.
Now go watch Hexman
At 10:33: the DeWalt goes to 11. Awesome! Nigel would be proud!
haha...Spinal TAP reference. love it!
No, don't touch it. Don't even look at it.
Have a good time all the time
Dewalt is top tier
Most overplayed joke ever.
Thank you for sacrificing that drill for that super cool cutaway. That was really interesting!
It was fun to do - I have done cutaways for hammer drills and impact drivers but had never seen a clutch in action so I found it interesting too!
@@LRN2DIY I hope it was on SALE at Harbor Freight 🤣👍
@@macforme Ha! Isn't everything always on sale at HF?
It wasn't a sacrifice, it was an investment. 5.5M views buys a lot more than a drill.
‘Ikea’ self assembled type furniture. Set the chuck to 1 then tighten with a screw driver. Makes putting everything together go so much quicker
I had some "ikea" style dressers and just modulating the trigger was enough and fast enough for me. Full send until the moment before it went into the wood-stuff, then back off and slow it down. Just snug it. If I was mass producing, I wouldn't want to have to manipulate the device like that all the time.
now I can put it together backwards even faster thx
I use a Festool CXS for Ikea cabinets, the clutch is gentle and it's great. I usually get the tightness just right around 6 for most screws and up to 9 for big ones. Also, Ikea uses Posidrive. Do yourself a service and get some PZ2 bits, life changer. 😊
@@BenjaminCronce
I used to modulate the trigger as well, but I had to put a bunch of donated furniture together for a fund raiser, and setting the clutch was definitely the better choice. Even with the clutch at ‘1’ on my hyper tough drill, which ratchets for almost anything, I still had to modulate some screws. The wood in cheaper furniture just doesn’t want to grab screws sometimes.
Instead of making "1" setting, get a better drill. I assembled the whole flat with Ikea furniture with a relative cheap Lux-tool drill. It had very sensitive clutch, and it was able to turn any type of screws with exactly needed force. No screwdriver after!
I'm a weekend DIYer and I have noticed the different clutch settings on my Milwaukee cordless drill. Hate to admit this but it wasn't until this video, I knew what the heck those numbers on the dial were. Thank you!
incredible video, i maintain commercial equipment for work and the amount of people that just use the strongest setting for even 1/4" machinery screws blows my mind. Doing the lords work
This is probably the best video I've ever seen to help understand how to properly use a power drill!
Thank you! I finally have a better understanding of how my drill is supposed to work. I appreciate this so much.
So glad to hear it! You’re very welcome.
very helpful, tend to use my Impact Driver for everything because it is smaller, lighter and more comfortable but yeah sometimes you need to break out the Big Guns for certain jobs
Agreed all around. I love my M12 Surge but it's not always the ideal fit.
I've had my Makita now for nearly 4 years and had no idea until watching this video. Solid explanation.
One of the best videos I've ever seen explaining and demonstrating the clutch feature. 👍🏻👍🏻💯 Also, Flex aside from its heft in size is an incredibly good brand. Their tools and battery tech are insane. Milwaukee is just raw power 🔥 and Dewalt just no longer wants to disappoint their customers.
I have the Milwaukee Fuel cordless set, and it's a dream. I am a timberframer in Brazil (I am a Canadian that is moving down here), and I can sink a 1" auger bit into any species of wood here, including camara and massaranduba, which are both almost twice as dense as oak. I just put the drill into "drill" setting (who knew? haha) and click back to the #1 setting, slowing down the rotation, and it just melts through it.
Ferramentas à parte, espero que esteja apreciando sua estadia em nosso país, muito embora aqui não tenha maple syrup.
I'm far from a #hailcorporate guy, but Milwaukee is a brand I am passionate about and I'm not even a professional, just an amateur car enthusiast and occasional home DIYer. Their products blow everything else out of the water, to the point where I took the time to sell my initial dewalt tools on Facebook and reinvested that money into Milwaukee equivalents. They have 100% earned my business for life
Way back before impact drivers were around, I used drills to drive screws. I did that for years. When I first saw an impact driver at work, I was sold and went out and bought one right away. I have rarely used a drill to drive screws since. I do have a 10 volt Makita impact driver for smaller screws and some 18 volt ones for bigger screws, lag screws and bolts. I drive a lot of screws but I never use a drill. That's just me.
What you use depends on the work you do. Impacts are good for most general labor but a drill is good to have in case those few cases where impacts can't cut it
@@jacobfreeman5444 I have never had any instance in an industrial work setting, where a M18 Fuel Impact Driver couldn't handle it.
I have used my DeWalt (same model as the one you used here), but I noticed the clutch settings act upon the fasteners differently depending on the battery I'm using. If I use a Flex-Volt battery, I get similar 'over-driven' results as you did. So I tried the other batt's and sure enough, the clutch acted like the other driver/drills I have. Then I used the normal (not Flex-Volt) when it was getting drained from level 2 to level 1 charge status, and that produced less force so it sunk the screws less than a fully charged battery. I believe the clutch settings are arbitrary for the same reason, too many outside forces are possible to determine one number = one, consistant result. Don't get me started about the status of the driver tip, or quality and hardness of the fastener!
The other factor I've learn over the years is material deviations, even in the same piece. That Douglas Fir you were driving into...as soon as you get within an inch of the knots, the wood becomes much more dense, and the screws will not go in nearly as far given the same setting. Even when driving into the darker lines where there are no knots, the slow-growth lines are much more dense... I'm pretty sure most people have figured that out, but I teach woodworking and like to show the younger students things which will make their experiences more fulfilling, their projects turn out more satisfying.
Personally, I use the Milwaulkee hydraulic driver most of the time to drive fasteners because I twist the heads off screws using anything else. I forget the official name of it, but I know it works far more effeciently because the impact upon the fastener is not as harsh, yet it drives with sufficient force.
Thanks for the presentation. I realize not ever little aspect of a subject can be included.
Great points here. The Milwaukee Surge driver is the one you’re referring to and it’s my go-to tool as well. Easily my favorite driver to use. I love the battery insights here as well. I’ll have to do some experimenting with those DeWalts to see how that plays out. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I noticed this battery effect after buying a dewalt 20 volt impact / driver.
While I do do some around the house 'large' scale DIY stuff on occasion, the vast majority of my DIY time is spent on small / medium scale projects like props and tech toys, so I ended up also buying a 12volt dewalt drill too just so I could have a 'delicate/precision' general use drill for smaller scale tasks that don't call for the 20volt drivers' "I-will-drive-this-or-die-trying" energy.
Glad to help you try to hit 1 million! I've been buying more power tools and with more DIY at home needed. My dad knows a ton and has helped me a lot but he doesn't communicate everything as quickly and effectively as you do.
Thank you!
I’ve always feathered my trigger at different intervals. But it’s definitely good to finally know this! Thanks
A point that I would like to bring up with drills with mechanical clutches is if you are having trouble getting a drill bit to stay tight in the chuck try setting the clutch to a light setting then tighten the drill bit in the chuck by hand then hold the chuck with one hand and run the drill while holding the chuck and let the clutch slip and click, this put an intermittent force on the chuck that helps tighten the the drill bit in the cluck.
you know to tighten the check you just twist it right? no pulling of the trigger involved.
@@dirtrider88 Yes I know that is how it is suppose to work. But for some people they can't tighten by hand and the ratcheting of the clutch tightens the chuck more.
Sometimes, you don't even know that you don't know until, a video like this pops up. Nowadays, the text in manuals is so tiny, poorly written and off-putting that I just assumed the numbers indicated power. Thank you for drilling into us such simple, yet overlooked, important aspects about drills!
I have three DeWalt 20 volt drill drivers. None of them do that at the lightest setting. Did you have the top speed adjustment on 1 or 2?
Yeah, seems like he might have a defective unit.
@@larrybud No, he had it in gear 1 if you put it in gear 3 it will stop at a lower torque
@@dmoqppsoysc "1" is lightest torque. "15" (or whatever this drill's highest setting is) is the most torque (outside of the "drill" setting).
@@larrybud no, i was refering about the top speed setting it affects the torque ouput on the clutch, so 1 in the clutch and 3 in the top( faster rpms) is the lowest torque so you dont strip the fasteners
@@dmoqppsoysc Interesting I always found the slower RPM / speed setting tends to sit the screw head a little higher, If I drive it hard and fast on 2 it'll sink deeper down before the clutch slips at a given torque setting. I'm only talking a half or even quarter rotation of the fixing in the difference but I've noticed it on literally thousands of screws that I've put in on both my combi drills.
i've always used the clutch. this seems like information for beginners but then looking at the comments... glad you made this video!
Very informative video. I have 2 Dewalt drills, the clutch doesn't work effectively in 1st gear. The clutch works well in 2nd gear which is counter intuative.
I found your channel about 2 weeks ago and I got to say I love it. I'm a tool guy myself so I love what you're doing. Keep up the great work!
Thank you so much! Can’t get enough power tool info!
@@LRN2DIY exactly. No matter how much you know, there's always something you can learn
@@BedjamRiveraI feel that way about everything. I’m such a nerd. I can’t help it, I just love learning. I barely watch regular TV or movies. I’m almost always more excited to tune in to this channel or some of the others I subscribe to, or listen to an audiobook. (I have a visual impairment, so I don’t read print as much as I used to). So, yeah, I definitely agree.
@@LRN2DIY You're right about what you said early on in the video. They don't tell you in the manuals what all the clutch settings mean. I have 3 power drills and none of the manuals tell you much.
However, all mine have two speeds (set via a slider at the top of the drill. Either 1 or 2). Do these speed settings have any bearing on the clutch?
@garyrumain9808 - I think they do. I haven't had a chance yet to test it properly but I'm hoping to do that shortly and I'll post what I find.
Now this guy was born a Dad.
I've noticed that drills with an electronic clutch, the 1 setting is still way too strong still. But with a physical clutch it works much better with delicate work. The advantage of the electronic clutch is the tool is shorter
They can be shorter and not having the grinding clutch sound is nice too. I just wish they were more sensitive.
On modern drills the power settings are for different torque applications. I haven't seem a drill im years where 1 isnt the strongest setting. This makes sense. Low speed = high torque
For the purposes of this test, you would have seen better results using a higher "power setting"
Staying on 1 ensured you had maximum torque.
Low setting = drilling holes
High setting = driving fasteners
The only exception to this rule is when they put a dedicated "low" mode for electronics or plastic.
You understand the clutch, but not the power settings. Ever driven a stick shift? What gear do you use to go up a hill or gain more torque?
Can't believe how you kept me engaged with such a simple thing I already knew...Subscribed because of t-shirt :) Keep 'em coming.
The engagement and disengagement of mechanical clutches was taught to me best when I learned how child-safety caps on medicine bottles prevented actuation without a certain amount of down-pressure.
What separates that from these drills is that, while a medicine cap's static friction is practically constant and the down-pressure you apply is variable, the down-pressures given by the settings on a drill's clutch are constant, and it's the torque demanded by the fastener or bit that varies, so the drill actuates until it reaches the point at which the torque necessary exceeds what the down-pressure is capable of overcoming, where it then slips. Very cool, Kanye.
Great information, so many things popping up and covering the information being demonstrated.
1:33 I've always wanted to do that! Thanks for doing it for us.
My pleasure. It was fun to see the different settings.
It would be interesting to see how the different battery sizes impact the clutch depths on the drills in hard and soft wood.
Absolutely. I need to try that out, as well as using different gears.
Great video! I’ll definitely be using these tips.
Just an FYI, your audio issues seem to be being caused by “auto leveling” from whatever you’re using to record the audio. Basically the mix is always trying to keep things in a certain range and will either amplify or quiet down on its own. I’d recommend a zoom H1 and a lav mic, set the levels manually and you’ll get consistent audio levels.
Wow! The uncalibrated slip clutch for screwing screws in .. uncalibrated! Congratulations, very smart indeed and very informative. Now I know I shouldn't expect exact science where one is not to be expected.
1:04 he did the thing 👀
He did 😂
2:35 what was for dinner?
So am I to understand that DeWalt's clutch is useless?
Keep in mind that the model he used is a hammer drill and is going to have more torque than a standard drill. I use a regular DeWalt drill and have not had that problem.
@@jamesgraybeal9572 So am I to understand that DeWalt's hammer drill clutch is useless?
No, its not useless. There is another switch on top of the drill, for high and low, has an effect on torque and the clutch. I have a 20v dewalt hammer drill and it works just fine for small home projects. Usually around 5-7 on mine for driving screws into predrilled drywall and studs or those oh so lovely plastic anchors.
@@spud69g So it doesn't hammer everything deep into wood on the low setting, like he showed in the video?
Also, how does 'small home projects' factor into it?
@@imacmill when set properly it will not do what was shown.
In small home projects where materials are generally softer, use of as much power and torque is not needed vs industrial where harder and thicker materials are usually used.
Great breakdown. I've owned a home for about 14 years or so and I kind of figured about the numbers/clutch settings. Keep up the good work!
Phoenix, Arizona local 469 hvac service tech here, keep at it brother 🍻
Your finger is your clutch/safety. 🙂
And thats why you aren't paid to do this kind of work 😊
Lol and workers comp is your BFF.
This guy is a 2a proponent.
So it's torque setting. This could have been a 4 second video. I wanted to know because I never understood what it was but I guess it was important for me to watch a 14 minute video to get this simple answer: it's a torque setting.
Google next time
Friend, congratulations on your channel, it's really great. But allow me to add some knowledge. You are using the Dewalt DCD996 wrongly. At torque level 1 and speed 1, it is very strong as you showed, but if you put torque level 1 and speed level 3, you will see that it will have even more torque options than flex or any other. I explain and show this in detail in my video 18 SPEEDS! THE STRONGEST 18V DEWALT DCD996 IMPACT SCREWDRIVER/DRILL SOLD IN BRAZIL
ua-cam.com/video/y_l1wX6B1rY/v-deo.html Many people don't know that this Dewalt multiplies torques along with 3 speeds. Hope this helps. Best Regards
You chanel is really interersting, even to show some models that is not available in Brazil. Please, check the above information.
This is interesting. I've got "only" a Black+Decker cordless drill that I bought maybe a year ago. It replaced a corded drill that I had from my dad that was maybe a SEARS brand or something? I clicked on this video because I recognized this as a feature on my drill as well, but I've never messed with it. I only change from drill bit, to countersink, to driver for the screw. I don't use it for any professional stuff, just use at home from time to time, but also whenever I'm building on stuff for a model railroad layout, so I've been drilling and driving quite a bit more in the last couple weeks just getting in to a new house.
Thanks for sharing!
I'm actually just reading about the one that I bought and it apparently has a "24-position clutch." It's a 20V Max Powerconnect.
You haven’t aged a day!
Thank you so much for the thorough explanations. I feel like I’m the only one who doesn’t know how to use a drill.
audio volume fluctuates high and low like a sine wave . . . . . it's a secret code! Someone decode it!
Screwing together cabinet boxes for years without a clutch. You need feel, not a clutch, to avoid over penetrating.
100% I was thinking the same thing!
Amigo, parabéns pelo seu canal é realmente ótimo. Porém me permita agregar um conhecimento. Você está usando a Dewalt DCD996 de forma equivocada. Eno nível 1 de torque e na velocidade 1, ela é bem forte como você mostrou, mas se colocar nível 1 de torque e nível 3 de velocidade, verá que ela ficará com ainda mais opções de torque do que a flex ou qualquer outra. Explico e mostro isso em detalhes no meu vídeo 18 VELOCIDADES! A MAIS FORTE PARAFUSADEIRA/FURADEIRA DE IMPACTO 18V DEWALT DCD996 VENDIDA NO BRASIL
ua-cam.com/video/y_l1wX6B1rY/v-deo.html Muitas pessoas não sabem que essa Dewalt multiplica os torques juntamente com as 3 velocidades. Espero ter ajudado. Abraços do Brasil 🇧🇷😃🎬
Realmente, o amigo Fernando tem razão. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
While I’ve utilized torque settings on my drills, actually how precise it can be blew my mind. Bosch impact drivers have a ratcheting system so fasteners never get overtightened. Where it matters I always drill a countersink hole with a bit, we all know thats cleaner. In the theater we always just used the driver bit to start that off. Always good to pick up helpful hint, thanks for the video!!!
Good video!! I like your tips and tricks and the depth of your explanations!
1 thing:
Check your volume settings, it changes during the video. The volume is very low most of the video but sometimes it is at the correct volume. Tip: you can make your volume at the same hight with you editing software 👍🏻 so it is always at the correct volume. Even if the mic sometimes has trouble picking it up.
3:11 you asked for like/sub on your previous video goober.
Worst resume ever
Thank you!! The single most informative video I think I've ever watched - I ALWAYS wanted to know what those settings actually do!! Thanks!
Dude. Thanks for this particular video.
I just now stumbled upon your channel because of this topic. I love having this knowledge now. I subbed to help your cause even though I see you’re over 1 million. Well done. I’ll be watching more now that I know about you.
This was very informative. I tend to use an impact driver for screws rather than a drill, and sometimes push it past the point where it meets that resistance. I'm now wondering if this is actually damaging the driver, and whether i'd be better off using a drill in 'drill' mode?
I bought a Black & Decker drill back in 2009. It sits in the closet outside all the time, rain or shine out there, and it works and works and works. The clutch is gradual and predictable, no issues whatsoever. I didn't want to be cheap, that's why I paid $32 for it ;) The cheapest was $25.
Long time handiperson, but fairly clueless on drill settings (and I know it). I really appreciate the overview information and I did learn a lot. However, I now realize I could still use a more basic lesson. My drill, an old Ryobi, has a 1 - 2 setting, plus 24 more settings, which I now know are clutch settings, on the collar. I never really understood what each setting is for, though I at least now have an idea of how to test them and figure it out. I’m going to go looking for a how to use your drill for the complete newbie. I always try to do CLA and/or repair when something breaks and I have been having trouble tightening and loosening the clutch. So I’ll also be looking for info on how to maintain my drill. Thanks for the information!
As a very amateur DIYer that does odds and ends jobs (Mostly repair/craft projects for my girlfriend and her mother), this was a highly informative video. Definitely subbed, as I feel I'll be needing some advice on future projects. I picked up a black and decker drill on holiday sale from amazon, and have only really used it for fast assembly of furniture and whatnot, but never really understood the numbering on it. A quick question I have though, does the same principal apply in reverse, i.e., does a higher clutch setting put more pressure on stuck screws and bolts to get them to release from a rusted/deformed/stuck mounting? I understand, if so, that you'd still want to start light and increase power until it popped loose, or risk breaking the bolt head/stripping the screw.
just found your channel and glad I did... my DeWalt drivers are always on high torque and my fasteners always go in kinda deep. I never thought of going to a lower number now I'll drop down a notch or two when I'm building stuff. TANX
Interesting video. I have a Milwaukee drill and impact driver. I never use the drill to drive screws. That job belongs to the impact driver. My drill only has the drill bit printed on the clutch, no hammer, just the different clutch settings. One thing I don’t understand about these drills is the switch on top that has two settings, 1 or 2. Unless I missed that in this video, what is that switch for? I can’t seem to feel any difference whether it is set on 1 or 2.
Well one old man has just learnt something at 75 years of age, i have never understood what the settings mean but after your showing off the screws being screwed down i now have some ideas; great explanations i have now subscribed you never know one old dog can still learn when i thought i new it all lol.
first video i watch from you, and happy to see you hit the 1m, i reached the age of my life where i am trying to gather useful info on being more handy and understanding tools, that we usually use 5% of what they can actually offer
thanks a lot!
This guy is definitely a spokesman for flex tools. I own a Dewalt drill with a variable clutch a had to turn it to 5 before it would drive the screw all the way down then slipping.
Very comprehensive, to be sure, you did a good job. Thanks for the info on the electronic clutches, new one to me! My Mikita cordless clutch started slipping, I've used it a lot. Are the clutches replaceable? Is it worth my time & expense? I love my cordless...
I randomly clicked on this channel an a whim. Great channel.. Subscribed!
An excellent video. Some of the differences are the power of the drill. Your heavy duty (industrial) sometimes has too much power; for delicate work some of the home-use drills are weaker, thus more delicate. That's important when doing work such as assembling metal buildings. Your note about the impact driver is a good one, too. Those can be useful when working with pressure treated and/or old wood, while the drill worked better attaching sheet rock to 40 yo wood studs.
I use my drill to drill, I use my impact driver (M18 Fuel gen 3 and 4) for driving all fasteners. The impact driver is small more compact, powerful enough for any project and I feel that I have more control and precision.
m18 fuel gen 3 Impact driver is too strong for little screws. I own it and it just over goes it. I am just thinking of buying the 12v gen 4 impact hoping it won't do it.
Thank you for showing the internal workings for the impact driver! I've always wondered how that worked.
I typically use the clutch for taping out holes machine thread screws. The smaller taps like 6/32, 8/32 and 10/32 will snap with little torque. I also use it with my unibit and other metal drilling bits to keep it from kicking too hard when it gets caught.
It's definitely time to "pull that trigger" and get that DeWalt cordless drill (this Christmas) I've been putting off for years now. Right now I have an old Craftsman (20+ years old) that still works fine, but it's bulky, corded, with a keyed chuck that sometimes doesn't grab on the teeth well, and has no clutch for torque settings.
Wish this video had come out earlier. A year ago I stripped multiple screws because of incorrect drill settings when attempting to install dimmer switches around the house. It was so bad that I could not remove the bad screws even with specialized tool kits. What finally worked for me was drilling thru the screw up to 1/4th of its height with a 1/8" drill bit and then reversing the drilling direction, which caused the drill bit to unscrew the damaged screw. Spent hours doing it.
I pretty well never would want to grab my drill over my impact unless I'm actually drilling something. I can definitely see why you would want to use the clutch on your drill though. Sure you could finesse a few screws, but setting and forgetting your clutch for a big project actually sounds really nice. That said, full beans on the impact is always so satisfying.
Why am I just now seeing this!? 😂 I did a lot of odd jobs as a kid to make money on weekens or school holidays. It started off cutting grass but eventually evolved into cleaning garages, spraying down hornet nets, helping with DIY projects, etc.
One of my favorite customers did a lot of carpentry and let me handle the simple stuff like putting in or removing screws. I didn't know what a clutch collar was, but I learned real quick how to set it after stripping out a few screws and rounding off a bolt.
Congratulations on 1 million! You deserve it for how much time you spent
I want to point out one flaw in your video. You kept mentioning "the least torque" the drills are able to produce, but most drills have variable speed triggers or a speed selector switch. At lower speeds you'll have the clutch be more sensitive. I know this is true for both DeWalt and Milwaukee drills. Going easy on the trigger for more delicate jobs is a must.
I have DeWalt drills. I don't use the clutch because as you saw it does not do much of anything unless you are also switched into 2 or 3 speed setting. (drive just about everything with impact driver) I do have a Milwaukee drill and driver set that I have not really ever used. I should try them out see if the drill clutch is any better. Thank you for this video.
Funny, I always wondered what thing does. Never bothered to look it up, I dont know why. Now I came across your video and learned more about clutches on drills that I ever needed to know :P
The clutch on my admittedly budget Erbauer makes my job as a bike mechanic way easier. 6 brake disc bolts take an age to remove and reinstall by hand, cracking them free with a hex or torx key then banging them out with the drill massively cuts the working time on those bolts, the clutch ensures the bolts don't get messed up or worse the hub threads get shredded (a pack of 6 bolts is £10-20, a new hub is at least 5x that), hand tighten when in place. Saving a few minutes on tasks like that opens up more time to get things properly set up, better to spend 5 minutes on bolts to spare 25 for caliper alignment than vice versa.
Also handy for bolting together flat pack furniture.
Comes in really hand with so much inexpensive pre-fab cabinets and shelving available. I've gotten really good at dropping it to a 1 on the first screw, to ensure I don't just totally bore out the screw holes. Once dialed in, makes assembly so much easier.