My favorite part is the made In USA sticker in the end. Gonna follow this build for sure. I too build odd and different builds. People say it can't be done and the next thing ya know I'm driving it
This project will definitely be a ripper. With the grunt from that big ole'lump and the flyweight chassis, it should be a flyer. Looking forward to more videos. Thank you so much.
Hey Jonathan! Me and my mate John are looking forward to this build. We're over in the U.K.. If you need anything finding let us know! God Bless Prayers from Wales! MAGA! Take the red pill!
Hey Jonathan this is going to be an awesome build looking forward to all the episodes man I like that you don't have to go out and blow whole bunch of money to have a nice little race car I like your style👍👍👍👍👍
Well its a rust bucket but knowing you and your inginuity you will get it sorted out. After you cleaned up that fuel pump that works great. Thanks for sharing great build.
Thanks for showing the underside of the car and the configuration of the frame. I've heard the terms "overslung" and "underslung" used but to actually see it made the terms click for me.
Jonathan, The spitfire frames look close to this but had an issue with rust on the cross member at the Diff. Also the rear suspensions tend to tuck the rear wheels in tight cornering. Good luck with the build!
I liked seeing the underside of the little triumph I have never had any dealings with little British cars. Cant beat the holley blue pump being new Glad you were able to get it cleaned out.
It'll be cool as hell when it's done...anybody can build a car from a catalog...but to use all boneyard parts and some good ol' poorboy know how....That is cool
Another few years and that car would be one with the earth. I think its great that you are doing that car justice. I would have let that one become one with mother nature, but also believe that the car will make a good track car. When I was in high school I use to tell my friends that the rust on my Road Runner was speed cancer (because I thought the car was fast) lol. Enjoy the build and it will definitely be a good display of your talents! Thanks and Go Dirt/Mud Dobbers! That would be a good name for the car (Mud Dobber).
LoL..darn Jonathan...your hands are faster then an air gun...lol..... I love that car lift and it's a portable system to boot. Dad has a saying I like...you can polish a turd all you want but it's still a turd...you can see for sure now why your building a drag car,,,and it will be a fast one too....good save on the pump also.
Reminds me of a house I once lived in. If the termites hadn't been holding hands it would have had no walls. The whole place was held together with thick paint & prayer.
mr johnthan, this is just one mans opinion, mine specifically, but in my humble opinion, even if that car was pristene, its your car and i look forward to anything you decide to do with it
Looking at the underside of it (the frame specifically) you can see where mazda drew their inspiration for the MX5 from. It's called a powerplant frame in the mx5's. A strong single mid mounted backbone that connects the front and rear suspension together. Apparently it is what makes them drive so well (that and 50/50 weight balance). Obviously this could do with a little strengthening up. Anyway I'm looking forward to the build! Your enginuity always amazes me. Good luck! Greetings from Holland.
Yes, rockers/sills are just cosmetic bolt on panels. Gearbox covers were moulded cardboard. Doors are surprisingly heavy, best removed first. Bumper inserts were usually white rubber mouldings, Vitesse had aluminium covers tho'. That sad old car was very lucky to find you Jonathan!
Lookin good Jonathan. Ha... don't you love Mud Dawbers in NC. They decided my radiator reservoir was a good place to build their mud castle. Not even in a hole! I put up a short video of it, on my channel.
I'd love to do a big block drag car out of either a Chevy Vega or a Monza. I reckon the best way to go would be a big cube engine with lots of spray. More tractable and less issues with trying to find places to mount the turbos etc.. But it would be a car directed towards being able to compete at Hot Rod Drag Week and do well.
Greetings Johnathan, Like the project! Couldn't believe it. About a year ago I started a similar project. Big engine, small chassis, equals go fast. Easy on the budget too. By the way, the car is made in England also. Could this become a trend? Have fun!
jonathan, I wonder if the pacer front suspension you have would work a little easier on this build?youd have disc brakes and a good rack. would probably be easier to find a heavier wound spring too.also ,earlier jeep cj's had a center diff,dana 44 posi rearend.big axles! ford pickup bolt pattern. cant remember the ratio. just something to consider. love all your builds!!
I reckon Carter make the best electric fuel pumps out there on the market. They have pretty much a pump for every applicationn, for every pressure or volume you need. You just have to check your specs to match one up. And I personally think they are quieter than any of the Holleys or other brands products. I put a carter P4070 on my friends built VW motor as he was having problems with lean out, which he initially thought was due to the carbs, but then we diagnosed it down to the fuel pump, and this was a name brand which had been 'recommended' to him by so called 'experts' . Not only was it pumping too much pressure for the needle and seat of the weber's , but the volume was less than half the required hourly flow rate. So did a bit of research, found the right pump and mounted it with the exhaust soft mount insulator bolts, and not only was it great from the start, it was quiet, it doesn't require the extra expense of a regulator (they actually recommend not running one with webers which it is basically designed for) and it will support up to 300 hp should he need to upgrade in the future.
Jonathan, I agree the little triumph looked at first like a good project car for you. But after seeing all the body rust, wont it take up “a lot” of your time just on the body repair? Unusual frame. And since it’s going to be below everything, it should make it easy to add onto from the top of it. Had to laugh when you tested the fuel pump and said “if a big block won’t run on all that fuel, we have other problems”. That was pumping enough for a gas locomotive!
No plans to body work it. Just mechanical is what we want. It's gotta look like a rusty sleeper car. I will weld some metal where it needs it. Just consider a Rat Rod drag car. The cage will tie everything together for strength, body just be for looks.
It's rain, not road salt that's done that car. Back in the 60s 70s I've seen those with chassis repair when the body was perfect. Straight rails on the chassis, plus the cage should make it strong enough.
Mesa Boogie! Made in USA 🇺🇸 They eat Marshalls for breakfast! Any guitarists out there, a Triaxis 2.90 and a couple of 2x12 slants with the C90 in the top and the EV 12L's in the bottom! You only buy that rig once and it's all you'll ever need. You can get any sound you want out of it. And nothing sounds like those 295's 395's and Simul 2.90's. Those amps are bulletproof! You can drive anything through em! And the cabs! And it's the only amp that has that 3D quality! You know what I mean! God Bless Y'all
I like it...got a running motor & fuel pump...l saw the out riggers you pointed out, but except for that piece of tin cross member - didn't see any 'in riggers'...we'll see when you roll it in the shop...the other thing l noticed was the bottom looks a whole lot better than what the top was showing me...& l ain't even got a clue how that shift linkage works - that might've been what got the car parked in the first place...lastly but not leastly - if you hadn't a got now, another year or two l doubt there would've been much left to fool with
Jonathan some pointers on tubing, 3x2 3/16 thick 5.60 pounds per ft.... 3x2 1/4 thick 7.10 ppfoot 4x2 3/16 6.88ppf 4x2 1/4 8.80 ppf here's the figures on the weight of the steel and being what I know about steel that my dad has sold it for years this little book I got would probably be real Handy for you and would love to know where I can send it? So I would go the 3 by 2 3/16 wall thickness because it is light at 5.6 pounds per foot and would be about the same strength as the 4 by 2 3/16 which should add a lot of strength to your car contact me if you would like one of these books they're just handy to have
I've only seen 2 of those cars in my life, yours being 1 of the 2. I was probably 8 or 9 yrs old a guy in our neighborhood had a red one with a white tops which looks like yours was the color combo too. He terrorized the neighborhood with it when he was mad. I wanna say that shifter on the right side of column was for reverse, I could be wrong though.
The chassis looks really good. I am used to Seeing Triumphs really rotten under there .2x4 should be fine for a drag car for side rails.Most T buckets were built using similar size or as Aaron says,3x2 . Maybe you should just build a simple chassis and fit tye body to that?
I'm pretty sure that the gearbox cover on the early Heralds like this car was a pressed fibre board, pretty much cardboard but a little stronger. Later cars did change to a pressed metal gearbox cover. I think you're probably going to be best off strengthening the original chassis/frame to the outside of the original members, if you go to the inside of them you're going to be massively reducing the amount of room there is for the prop shaft/drive shaft as it runs down between the two rails of the backbone chassis/frame...
Jonathan, you should cut a roof from an old Mustang fastback or an old Vega , or something that will fit. You've got enough space in the back for a fast back plus you'll get a new windshield. The hardest part would be fitting the doors but you could always cut off the wing vents. If you measure it you might find something that fits. Good luck bro. For reference check out Roadkills Nascarlo video. See how they fit the roof on that car.
I think that's a holly blue pump and supposedly set at 7 psi the red ones are the ones that come with a regulator and higher psi...but a regulator is still a good idea maybe.
I can tell you're excited about this project, and I figure with you doing the work it would turn out great, but it just seems like its too far gone and needs too much work. I say scrap it and finish the 4x4 wrecker. But that's just my opinion.
Can't fit the 4x4 in my shop and to old to handle the cold. Guess I could hibernate till spring. Bought 40 foot steel trusses and everything to build a 40x40, but need to wait for better weather before pouring concrete. The views I got on the 4x4 wrecker wasn't too good, so I may do a few videos on it and see how they do, if not I will complete it off camera.
There is a reason why Triumph Herald's are NOT sought after very much for restoration, like Jeep's, you can stand next to them and listen to the rust going on.
Michelotti body design so looks good even in that state. Typical of British cars of that age. Good design and engineering ideas but no money to spend making them. Having said that it did last until now.
I was curious about that myself and even posted it but he's so damn busy he can't answer all these comments. But in defending his decision to put the big block in instead of restoring, I heard him say the car has no title. So I strongly suspect it will be track only.
Love your videos and THANK you for them. Best thing on internet. Old man here and owned some of the cars you work on.
Love this project. I think it's gonna be a great poor man's funny car.
From what it looks like on top, I would never have expected the underside to be as good as it is.
My favorite part is the made In USA sticker in the end. Gonna follow this build for sure. I too build odd and different builds. People say it can't be done and the next thing ya know I'm driving it
This project will definitely be a ripper. With the grunt from that big ole'lump and the flyweight chassis, it should be a flyer. Looking forward to more videos. Thank you so much.
You learn something every video. I had no idea those pumps were vein or vane type pumps!
Hey Jonathan! Me and my mate John are looking forward to this build. We're over in the U.K.. If you need anything finding let us know! God Bless Prayers from Wales! MAGA! Take the red pill!
Hey Jonathan this is going to be an awesome build looking forward to all the episodes man I like that you don't have to go out and blow whole bunch of money to have a nice little race car I like your style👍👍👍👍👍
I'd fly to North Carolina just to meet you for a day, I love your crazy projects
Well its a rust bucket but knowing you and your inginuity you will get it sorted out. After you cleaned up that fuel pump that works great. Thanks for sharing great build.
Thanks for showing the underside of the car and the configuration of the frame. I've heard the terms "overslung" and "underslung" used but to actually see it made the terms click for me.
Miniature Corvette rearend setup. Pretty cool.
nice save on that fuel pump. it sure moves a good amount of fuel!
the car looks awesome with the top off. also fuel delivery is looking good!! ha ha
Jonathan, The spitfire frames look close to this but had an issue with rust on the cross member at the Diff. Also the rear suspensions tend to tuck the rear wheels in tight cornering. Good luck with the build!
I liked seeing the underside of the little triumph I have never had any dealings with little British cars. Cant beat the holley blue pump being new Glad you were able to get it cleaned out.
Again, you taught me something, I had no idea those fuel pumps were vane style.
It'll be cool as hell when it's done...anybody can build a car from a catalog...but to use all boneyard parts and some good ol' poorboy know how....That is cool
Another few years and that car would be one with the earth. I think its great that you are doing that car justice. I would have let that one become one with mother nature, but also believe that the car will make a good track car. When I was in high school I use to tell my friends that the rust on my Road Runner was speed cancer (because I thought the car was fast) lol. Enjoy the build and it will definitely be a good display of your talents! Thanks and Go Dirt/Mud Dobbers! That would be a good name for the car (Mud Dobber).
Not a pristine car. You are a man of epic understatement. What a project, I'm sure glad we don't have those mud dauber things where I live.
major undertaking but I bet yur up for the task ! Pump turned out great man .. THUMPS UP ! Keep the cam roll'en brother ..
Jonathan you have a big big job ahead of you on this build.
LoL..darn Jonathan...your hands are faster then an air gun...lol..... I love that car lift and it's a portable system to boot. Dad has a saying I like...you can polish a turd all you want but it's still a turd...you can see for sure now why your building a drag car,,,and it will be a fast one too....good save on the pump also.
Reminds me of a house I once lived in. If the termites hadn't been holding hands it would have had no walls. The whole place was held together with thick paint & prayer.
Nice job saving the pump
mr johnthan, this is just one mans opinion, mine specifically, but in my humble opinion, even if that car was pristene, its your car and i look forward to anything you decide to do with it
Looks great from Indiana
Looking at the underside of it (the frame specifically) you can see where mazda drew their inspiration for the MX5 from. It's called a powerplant frame in the mx5's. A strong single mid mounted backbone that connects the front and rear suspension together. Apparently it is what makes them drive so well (that and 50/50 weight balance). Obviously this could do with a little strengthening up. Anyway I'm looking forward to the build! Your enginuity always amazes me. Good luck! Greetings from Holland.
Ltbookum I
Cool idea sell the good parts to someone that needs them. AND GO HAVE FUN AT THE TRACK who cares what others say
This is going to be a GREAT project. Looking forward to this one
Nice Start on it, Jonathan.
Yes, rockers/sills are just cosmetic bolt on panels. Gearbox covers were moulded cardboard. Doors are surprisingly heavy, best removed first. Bumper inserts were usually white rubber mouldings, Vitesse had aluminium covers tho'. That sad old car was very lucky to find you Jonathan!
The artist makes a rough sketch on his canvas... this is going to be quite a ride!
Lookin good Jonathan. Ha... don't you love Mud Dawbers in NC. They decided my radiator reservoir was a good place to build their mud castle. Not even in a hole! I put up a short video of it, on my channel.
That car sure has a cool look to it
It sure looks like you've got a ton of work to do JW, but I know if it's not a big deal, it's because you're in charge. Thanks, Man!
I'd love to do a big block drag car out of either a Chevy Vega or a Monza. I reckon the best way to go would be a big cube engine with lots of spray. More tractable and less issues with trying to find places to mount the turbos etc.. But it would be a car directed towards being able to compete at Hot Rod Drag Week and do well.
Greetings Johnathan, Like the project! Couldn't believe it. About a year ago I started a similar project. Big engine, small chassis, equals go fast. Easy on the budget too. By the way, the car is made in England also. Could this become a trend? Have fun!
I'm glad you're working with that car. Most people would call that car beyond done but you see the potential it has
Perfect car even if it was mint to build a drag car
Great work as always man. Your videos are awesome. It would be great if u ever ran across a late 60s gto and made a video.
great stuff man, love free stuff
jonathan, I wonder if the pacer front suspension you have would work a little easier on this build?youd have disc brakes and a good rack. would probably be easier to find a heavier wound spring too.also ,earlier jeep cj's had a center diff,dana 44 posi rearend.big axles! ford pickup bolt pattern. cant remember the ratio. just something to consider. love all your builds!!
loads of repair panels are available for this body from the UK. It's a popular classic there. MUCH cheaper than Jag parts!
I reckon Carter make the best electric fuel pumps out there on the market. They have pretty much a pump for every applicationn, for every pressure or volume you need. You just have to check your specs to match one up. And I personally think they are quieter than any of the Holleys or other brands products. I put a carter P4070 on my friends built VW motor as he was having problems with lean out, which he initially thought was due to the carbs, but then we diagnosed it down to the fuel pump, and this was a name brand which had been 'recommended' to him by so called 'experts' . Not only was it pumping too much pressure for the needle and seat of the weber's , but the volume was less than half the required hourly flow rate. So did a bit of research, found the right pump and mounted it with the exhaust soft mount insulator bolts, and not only was it great from the start, it was quiet, it doesn't require the extra expense of a regulator (they actually recommend not running one with webers which it is basically designed for) and it will support up to 300 hp should he need to upgrade in the future.
Can’t wait for this build to start
Could you perhaps mould a fibreglass roof off the old one?
And the new frame rails be channelled? Seeing as floors arent great? Wicked project mate
Let the fun begin!
Jonathan, I agree the little triumph looked at first like a good project car for you. But after seeing all the body rust, wont it take up “a lot” of your time just on the body repair?
Unusual frame. And since it’s going to be below everything, it should make it easy to add onto from the top of it.
Had to laugh when you tested the fuel pump and said “if a big block won’t run on all that fuel, we have other problems”. That was pumping enough for a gas locomotive!
No plans to body work it. Just mechanical is what we want. It's gotta look like a rusty sleeper car. I will weld some metal where it needs it. Just consider a Rat Rod drag car. The cage will tie everything together for strength, body just be for looks.
Jonathan W Ohhhh. So that’s the look you’re going for - haha. Ok Thanks! Definitely gonna be a sleeper then!
Two hidden bolts over rear axle and two in each rear corner of trunk ,, plus hand brake cable and side rail bolts , rear end will come off then.
It's rain, not road salt that's done that car. Back in the 60s 70s I've seen those with chassis repair when the body was perfect. Straight rails on the chassis, plus the cage should make it strong enough.
Man I was hoping to see something on it today, You got me jonesin for this build. lol.
are you up to date on your tetnuis shots john ? looks like a fun build though
Nice clean up on the fuel pump. Do some solvents hurt that diaphragm?
Mesa Boogie! Made in USA 🇺🇸 They eat Marshalls for breakfast! Any guitarists out there, a Triaxis 2.90 and a couple of 2x12 slants with the C90 in the top and the EV 12L's in the bottom! You only buy that rig once and it's all you'll ever need. You can get any sound you want out of it. And nothing sounds like those 295's 395's and Simul 2.90's. Those amps are bulletproof! You can drive anything through em! And the cabs! And it's the only amp that has that 3D quality! You know what I mean! God Bless Y'all
I like it...got a running motor & fuel pump...l saw the out riggers you pointed out, but except for that piece of tin cross member - didn't see any 'in riggers'...we'll see when you roll it in the shop...the other thing l noticed was the bottom looks a whole lot better than what the top was showing me...& l ain't even got a clue how that shift linkage works - that might've been what got the car parked in the first place...lastly but not leastly - if you hadn't a got now, another year or two l doubt there would've been much left to fool with
Fun stuff! Looks good as a convertible, l don't think l would put the top back on unless you're wanting to hide the cage.
Man that pump moves some fuel lol
This thing is going to look like one of Rat Finks cars man.
No worries about fuel delivery with that pump, is there?
Jonathan some pointers on tubing, 3x2 3/16 thick 5.60 pounds per ft.... 3x2 1/4 thick 7.10 ppfoot 4x2 3/16 6.88ppf 4x2 1/4 8.80 ppf here's the figures on the weight of the steel and being what I know about steel that my dad has sold it for years this little book I got would probably be real Handy for you and would love to know where I can send it? So I would go the 3 by 2 3/16 wall thickness because it is light at 5.6 pounds per foot and would be about the same strength as the 4 by 2 3/16 which should add a lot of strength to your car contact me if you would like one of these books they're just handy to have
It's gonna be goooood!!!
This is gonna be bad ass
I thought thats what that pump was.man ur lucky
Good stuff!
I've only seen 2 of those cars in my life, yours being 1 of the 2. I was probably 8 or 9 yrs old a guy in our neighborhood had a red one with a white tops which looks like yours was the color combo too. He terrorized the neighborhood with it when he was mad. I wanna say that shifter on the right side of column was for reverse, I could be wrong though.
Jimmy Mckinness That’s not a shifter. If it’s like my Spitfire it is the headlight switch.
Hey remember the Brill Cream and a little dab'll do ya?
Well looks like a little dobber did ya. Good vid JW
Think Volvo used that same gear box in the 60s 70s. Finicky and whiny boxes. Overdrive is great when it works :)
Digggin the build.
The chassis looks really good. I am used to Seeing Triumphs really rotten under there .2x4 should be fine for a drag car for side rails.Most T buckets were built using similar size or as Aaron says,3x2 . Maybe you should just build a simple chassis and fit tye body to that?
I'm pretty sure that the gearbox cover on the early Heralds like this car was a pressed fibre board, pretty much cardboard but a little stronger. Later cars did change to a pressed metal gearbox cover. I think you're probably going to be best off strengthening the original chassis/frame to the outside of the original members, if you go to the inside of them you're going to be massively reducing the amount of room there is for the prop shaft/drive shaft as it runs down between the two rails of the backbone chassis/frame...
Shaft runs above
Sweet Deal!!
She's looking pretty rough, if it turns out to rough to build do you have a back up plan to drop the 427 in?
Jonathan, you should cut a roof from an old Mustang fastback or an old Vega , or something that will fit. You've got enough space in the back for a fast back plus you'll get a new windshield. The hardest part would be fitting the doors but you could always cut off the wing vents. If you measure it you might find something that fits. Good luck bro. For reference check out Roadkills Nascarlo video. See how they fit the roof on that car.
I guess I’ve been throwing away good transmission tunnel and dash material. Lol
What are your plans for that little 4 speed?
Ok I subscribed
I think that's a holly blue pump and supposedly set at 7 psi the red ones are the ones that come with a regulator and higher psi...but a regulator is still a good idea maybe.
Brian Anderson it is a Holley blue
Would 56/57 Chevrolet/GMC headlamps and bezels be made to fit?, they look quite similar to the original Triumph parts.
She has seen better days,
yes!!! new vid boy's!!!!
6 point roll bar tied into the chassis would be a good idea help give it some rigidity
In the plans for sure
Do you still have this old car i followed it all the way til you quit and wondering what ultimately happened to it
Hey Jonathan I gotta ask, are you planning on tucking the rear wheels inside the body, or radiusing the openings?
big League inside
How much 2x4 tubing will you need?
That pump puts out a lot of gasoline for sure.
I was told those cars started rusting before thy left the factory
Great videos keep it up need to figure out how contact you have some questions about some things
Rat power in a car that weighs next to nothing- can’t wait. Looks like a JD lift arm on the shop floor? Off a pulling tractor??
I would leave the top off and put a roll cage in it. It looks better without the top
I can tell you're excited about this project, and I figure with you doing the work it would turn out great, but it just seems like its too far gone and needs too much work. I say scrap it and finish the 4x4 wrecker. But that's just my opinion.
Can't fit the 4x4 in my shop and to old to handle the cold. Guess I could hibernate till spring. Bought 40 foot steel trusses and everything to build a 40x40, but need to wait for better weather before pouring concrete. The views I got on the 4x4 wrecker wasn't too good, so I may do a few videos on it and see how they do, if not I will complete it off camera.
Thanks for the reply. Whatever you're working on I'll be watching! I always enjoy your videos.
not many people would work with that car...too far gone. it is going to be awesome
Cars way to far gone for a resto might as well be a hot rod
There is a reason why Triumph Herald's are NOT sought after very much for restoration, like Jeep's, you can stand next to them and listen to the rust going on.
My point from the start. I think the close up quieted the naysayers that wanted it brought back to original.
Use a pinto/mustang 2 front and a 4 link rear with a 9" rear. The car will sure be bad a**!
The frames not too bad but the body sure is rough
Anyone else have to hit the head after Jonathan tested the fuel pump?
Michelotti body design so looks good even in that state. Typical of British cars of that age. Good design and engineering ideas but no money to spend making them. Having said that it did last until now.
"Looks good from a distance" Outer Space?
Are you going to make it street legal, or just keep it as a track car? Love your videos. Cheers mate.
I was curious about that myself and even posted it but he's so damn busy he can't answer all these comments. But in defending his decision to put the big block in instead of restoring, I heard him say the car has no title. So I strongly suspect it will be track only.
Just track and for fun. It won't want to turn when I am done.
Hahaha! Burnout in front of the house though? Or is even that too dangerous?
Haha okay and thanks for the answer.
Say "hi" to the family.
Get ahold of cutworms on utube he has one he can tell you about the tunnel and such