R410A is not charged as a liquid because it's faster. It because when charged as a gas, it fractionalizes and you end up with two refrigerants instead of a blend. A device called a Quick Charge will allow you to charge as a gas on the suction side, bur the bottle still has to be turned upside down.
He seems like he might be charging it too fast, which means liquid into the compressor… They make metering devices, or gauges with a sight glass, but just go slow never opening the valve fully… Technically, he should have recovered the Freon, purged the system, pulled a vacuum again and charged by weight… Yeah, you can charge slowly until you get around 115-120 on the suction line, but overcharge these units and you could damage the compressor…
@@EarlHayward It's been a while but I've a doubt. In refrigeration systems (not mini splits) when they charge the refrigerant in liquid form, they do so through the high side (usually there's a service port there for this same purpose or a liquid receiver etc..) mainly because of what you mentioned, in order to avoid liquid from entering the compressor. But these mini-splits are designed to becharged through the low side only (suction line) when the manufacturers know that most blends gotta be charged liquid. There seems to be a real risk of damaging the compressor. I wonder if these compressors come with a liquid receiver attached to them for protection. What I mean is that I just don't get why a service port is not added to the liquid line in order to make refrigerant charging safer on these mini splits.
Believe it or not, the Schrader valve, where the hose hooks up to charge, leaks. It’s always good practice to check for leaks there after hooking up lines to charge. Spray some soapy water or give it the ole spit test before capping..
Yep mine is leaking. I know that because when I open the cap it starts hissing 😅. Did i put a new valve on it. Nope just put another 10 oz in it and put it back on. 😂
If you didn't use any sealing treatment on the line connections (both ends, both lines) it's pretty much a guaranteed leak. I use Nylog Blue which from what I've heard is one of the best on the marked. The very first one I put in I didn't use the Nylog, even though I made sure to really tighten the lines 2 years later it was low on gas. I went back and resealed the lines with Nylog no problems since or with any other systems I've installed.
Thanks for the tip I will do that on mine. My freaking mini split keeps leaking and I can seem to find the leak even use a leak detector with bubbles it is a piece of thing Pioneer just like that one. 😅 ✌️
Just so you have a good outcome always remember to let the refrigerant in slowly . Just a little bit at a time . That way you don't hurt your compressor. Always good to use torque wrench on your service port caps. This is just in case a Schrader valve fails. This also applies to the other caps such as your valve port caps. Proper tools will also save your butt in the long run and hope this helps
@@basilfromeen Well when you get a new tech those of us "in the know" need to quick them and make sure they are in the game. The last tech at my home was four year out of HVAC school and I knew more about troubleshooting then him. And the leak came back in 2 months...so here we are. This is at a lake house where I don't know people but love/trust my tech at home. We talk and laugh the who time he works.
Yes it is but if the customer knows more than the tech (sometimes thats me) for a given job or the customer has questions (also legit) you just deal with it.
First thing he should have done is to check for leak, do a leak test sense there was some Freon in the system , then if don't want to go deep he should pump in a die in and complete the charge , next time need a charge or a day or tow later go back and test for leak with sniffer and light leak tester that will show the leaky spot in green or red depending the collar of the die leak test you pumped in .
ATF has the best anti-corrosive components you'll find anywhere and it's made specifically for the newer aluminum transmissions used today. Any brand is perfect. It'll put an end to your coil fins getting gunked up in that environment, no doubt about it.
Not leaving the unit installed close to the ground and having a good protective cover around the housing that won't block air flow is highly recommended. Critters and the elements play hell with those tiny fins.
You got your channel locks backwards in your not holding a backup either you're going to end up breaking something if there wasn't a leak there will be one
It's going thru the dryer first to prevent that from happening (the big black can/reservoir). Overfilling defeats that safety and will damage the compressor.
Mine is still good since we fixed it and it’s still blown cold air, but you may have a leak somewhere in the line or could be in the coils. It’s hard to tell without physically looking at it. You may need to have Tech come out. Good luck thanks for watching.
Where do you get these guys? You do not charge R410A as a vapor. Blends need to be charged as a liquid to prevent fractionation. Blends have different refrigerants that have different saturation points.They have a saturation range instead of point.the more volatile refrigerant will boil off first, therefore changing the percentage/composition of refrigerant…. Understand??
FYI, that extra length of tubing that is rolled up behind the condenser should be layed horizontally and not vertically. Refrigerant can settle in the low spots of the tubing
If you have a refrigerant problem - you might want to check the flare fittings behind the inside unit If you've ever installed one - you probably remember how tough it was to hook up the lines while mounting the unit (unless they were connected before, pipes wrapped and the entire length fed through the wall). I was also gunshy about bending the pipes and kinking them - it put me off of wanting to tighten them too much but needs to be at the proper torque
It is good to keep in mind that this guy is NOT GIVaING A TUTORIAL. He is being filmed and asked questionS with an interested home owner. The cheap shots and the derrogatory comment do not serve anyone!! Keep it real guys, you have also use the channel locks backwards more than once.... You guys with the tips and suggestion... Now that is good content!. Cheers
Does the unit need to be running while one is checking the refrigerant level and adding refrigerant? Also, should one evacuate the unit first and again, should the unit be on or off? Thanks.
I'm surprised that the split unit last that long with the poor non maintainance given it. At least once a year have the tech come out to clean the coils or learn to do it yourself
Please forget that you saw this video people that don’t know what they’re doing doing shouldn’t be posting videos that can turn out to be costly due to negligence
You have big leak. Why not do a bubble check at your flares or just retorque them. A mini split refrigerant gets super hot in winter then really cold in summer. That mean your flare connections contract and expand leading to leakage. So why not retorque to make sure it’s not the flare nuts loosening. Also change the Schrader valve. Those can lead to leaks over time. Most added time to a good technician would be an hour or less and worth every cent in assurances.
These units are fkn garbage!!!!!! I’ve installed tons of these always have issues with them. God forbid you don’t use a torque wrench on the flair fittings. I do this for a living… I would NEVER install one in my house!!
I don’t like talking bad about anyone in the trade, but this dude is a hack. Looks like he tried his best at slugging the compressor, didn’t pursue the vapor side hose, the channel locks were used wrong, bad info and so forth.
Obviously you thought you bought a unit that would clean and service itself. At least you hired someone equally as smart as yourself, using cheap Chanel locks on brass fittings. Talk about the blind leading the blind.
the ignorant leading the ignorant .... the tech says "ok to fill as vapor" .... Nope, not right. ....looks like it might be an inverter type, so, superheat/subcool won't work (got to weigh it out/in)
@@TomLeeman sorry to be the bearer of bad news. But for an inverter type system, only weighing out and weighing in can ascertain the charge conditions. Inverter systems are fantastically efficient and great when they work. They also can work well for multiple decades UNLESS the installation was flawed. Most common flaw is bad flare connections. Unfortunately those can be hard to find on complex installations. Best of luck
First thing that should be done is learn how to use your tools properly. . . . You don't use "any" side.... the gauges read differently....for high and low. You turn 410 upside down because it is 2 different chemicals mixing. Only time you don't is if you have a dual charge bottle that has the dipstick to the bottom. As it stands yall are the only dipstick on this job
Ya this guy is horrible you gotta weigh in oz. These systems can be overcharged real easy. Also ya the channel locks. Also there is a leak somewhere one hundred percent that low in four years. But ya a sniffer or pressure test.
Using a cheap pair of channel locks ...backwards....... priceless.
LOL
As a plumber that was hard to watch... I think I forgot to breathe while watching it
@@Hoooch420 As a former hvac tech, that was even harder to watch…
As a electrician that was hard to watch!!😂
As a painter that was hard to watch!
R410A is not charged as a liquid because it's faster. It because when charged as a gas, it fractionalizes and you end up with two refrigerants instead of a blend.
A device called a Quick Charge will allow you to charge as a gas on the suction side, bur the bottle still has to be turned upside down.
Excellent tips and information. I’m sure that our viewers will appreciate that as I do. Thank you for watching and keep cool.
Some people also just become their own "Metering device" in a way by slightly cracking it open and forcing it into vapor
He seems like he might be charging it too fast, which means liquid into the compressor… They make metering devices, or gauges with a sight glass, but just go slow never opening the valve fully… Technically, he should have recovered the Freon, purged the system, pulled a vacuum again and charged by weight… Yeah, you can charge slowly until you get around 115-120 on the suction line, but overcharge these units and you could damage the compressor…
@@EarlHayward It's been a while but I've a doubt. In refrigeration systems (not mini splits) when they charge the refrigerant in liquid form, they do so through the high side (usually there's a service port there for this same purpose or a liquid receiver etc..) mainly because of what you mentioned, in order to avoid liquid from entering the compressor. But these mini-splits are designed to becharged through the low side only (suction line) when the manufacturers know that most blends gotta be charged liquid. There seems to be a real risk of damaging the compressor. I wonder if these compressors come with a liquid receiver attached to them for protection. What I mean is that I just don't get why a service port is not added to the liquid line in order to make refrigerant charging safer on these mini splits.
Believe it or not, the Schrader valve, where the hose hooks up to charge, leaks. It’s always good practice to check for leaks there after hooking up lines to charge. Spray some soapy water or give it the ole spit test before capping..
Excellent tip that’s a good way to see if you’ve got a lead for sure. Thanks for watching.
I slather the cap in nylog and crank it on with new installs.
Yep mine is leaking. I know that because when I open the cap it starts hissing 😅. Did i put a new valve on it. Nope just put another 10 oz in it and put it back on. 😂
Thanks for the tip really appreciate it so far. This one’s been working great thank you for watching.
If you didn't use any sealing treatment on the line connections (both ends, both lines) it's pretty much a guaranteed leak. I use Nylog Blue which from what I've heard is one of the best on the marked. The very first one I put in I didn't use the Nylog, even though I made sure to really tighten the lines 2 years later it was low on gas. I went back and resealed the lines with Nylog no problems since or with any other systems I've installed.
Thanks for the tip appreciate it good to know and thanks for watching. Stay cool.
Thanks for the tip I will do that on mine. My freaking mini split keeps leaking and I can seem to find the leak even use a leak detector with bubbles it is a piece of thing Pioneer just like that one. 😅 ✌️
Just so you have a good outcome always remember to let the refrigerant in slowly . Just a little bit at a time . That way you don't hurt your compressor. Always good to use torque wrench on your service port caps. This is just in case a Schrader valve fails. This also applies to the other caps such as your valve port caps. Proper tools will also save your butt in the long run and hope this helps
Thank you for those good tips appreciate it and thanks for watching
@TomLeeman Welcome sir!
Schrader valve failure is common. Best to replace when servicing when refilling
A customer that hovers over you is the most annoying experience for a tech.
They love the video and a personal friend
Not true. People are just trying to learn. If you know your craft and honest then you don't have anything to worry about
@@thereckchanic4709 I was a plumber for 35 years. Hovering annoyed me to no end.
Should be a law. "Don't Hover." 😊😊
@@basilfromeen Well when you get a new tech those of us "in the know" need to quick them and make sure they are in the game. The last tech at my home was four year out of HVAC school and I knew more about troubleshooting then him. And the leak came back in 2 months...so here we are. This is at a lake house where I don't know people but love/trust my tech at home. We talk and laugh the who time he works.
Yes it is but if the customer knows more than the tech (sometimes thats me) for a given job or the customer has questions (also legit) you just deal with it.
Guy tore up ur fittin with the channel lock
Yeah
Jesus Christ what kind of tech uses dollar store pliers on a brass fitting? 😅😅 What a shoemaker
Thanks I appreciate that info and thanks for watching
First thing he should have done is to check for leak, do a leak test sense there was some Freon in the system , then if don't want to go deep he should pump in a die in and complete the charge , next time need a charge or a day or tow later go back and test for leak with sniffer and light leak tester that will show the leaky spot in green or red depending the collar of the die leak test you pumped in .
Excellent tips thanks for the expert advice and thanks for watching
some leaks stop after you get down to that last 8 oz of freon so always best to test leaks on a FULLY charged system... Professionally anyway
ATF has the best anti-corrosive components you'll find anywhere and it's made specifically for the newer aluminum transmissions used today. Any brand is perfect. It'll put an end to your coil fins getting gunked up in that environment, no doubt about it.
We will have to try that appreciate the tip. Thanks for watching.
Not leaving the unit installed close to the ground and having a good protective cover around the housing that won't block air flow is highly recommended. Critters and the elements play hell with those tiny fins.
The thing I noticed was he did not purge the Blue line with 410A..... So did the unit get a full blue line of oxygen ?
Beats me, but it worked after he did it
You got your channel locks backwards in your not holding a backup either you're going to end up breaking something if there wasn't a leak there will be one
Thanks for the tips appreciate it
Need to add freon slowly it's a vapor compressor if liquid add too fast you will overcharge it and possibly damage the compressor
Another excellent tip thank you very much and stay cool this summer
It's going thru the dryer first to prevent that from happening (the big black can/reservoir). Overfilling defeats that safety and will damage the compressor.
@@beebop9808 Isn't that called the liquid receiver? Isn't the filter dryer on the liquid line (high side)?
Mine is still good since we fixed it and it’s still blown cold air, but you may have a leak somewhere in the line or could be in the coils. It’s hard to tell without physically looking at it. You may need to have Tech come out. Good luck thanks for watching.
How often do got use it? Use it for both cooling and heating?
Good luck finding that leak. Thank you for watching.
Where do you get these guys? You do not charge R410A as a vapor. Blends need to be charged as a liquid to prevent fractionation. Blends have different refrigerants that have different saturation points.They have a saturation range instead of point.the more volatile refrigerant will boil off first, therefore changing the percentage/composition of refrigerant…. Understand??
Boy, I could’ve really used you down here in Florida
Excellent tip
R410a new sealed 25lbs. $300 each palm beach county
Yes, it’s very expensive for sure. Thanks for watching.
$350. In Houston
FYI, that extra length of tubing that is rolled up behind the condenser should be layed horizontally and not vertically. Refrigerant can settle in the low spots of the tubing
Good tip
No.thats oil trap loop😮
Yeah, it’s an oil trap and LG now says to lay the loops flat.
This is why i installed mine on a plywood platform so I could coil up the extra lines under it horizontallly.
That tech was awesome
Yes, he was
Thanks for the tip appreciate it
Anyone can send me a link to buy the vacuum and gauges as well as the adapter
You can get it on Amazon amzn.to/3Wjzl4K
If you have a refrigerant problem - you might want to check the flare fittings behind the inside unit
If you've ever installed one - you probably remember how tough it was to hook up the lines while mounting the unit (unless they were connected before, pipes wrapped and the entire length fed through the wall). I was also gunshy about bending the pipes and kinking them - it put me off of wanting to tighten them too much but needs to be at the proper torque
Excellent tip appreciate it. Thank you for watching.
Did it hold the charge?
Yes, it’s still cooling the house. Thanks for watching.
Please let us know.
You can see as he charged it the Frost or Freezing on pipe at connections is no longer Frozen on the outside of pipe.
Is that good?
Who is the AC guy? I live in Pompano Beach and need a decent minisplit guy.
I will look and see if I can find his name and number
Thanks for the tips
how much refrigerant does a usual unit take thats at 50psi to start?
It doesn’t take very much like a regular AC
It is good to keep in mind that this guy is NOT GIVaING A TUTORIAL. He is being filmed and asked questionS with an interested home owner. The cheap shots and the derrogatory comment do not serve anyone!! Keep it real guys, you have also use the channel locks backwards more than once.... You guys with the tips and suggestion... Now that is good content!. Cheers
Thanks for the encouraging comments. I appreciate it. They can be tough in the comment section once in a while, thanks for watching too.
What was the final outcome?
It work now everything‘s cool thanks for watching
@@TomLeeman😮don't lie I think it will leak again, please advise I am going thru that problem with the same brand. Thank you
Why not look for oil or sniff for a leak?
We checked all around and it can be a slow leak in a coil but so far it’s been working pretty good
where does one buy cheaper r410a? can you use other refrigerant? ex: r134?
I actually bought some off of craigslist once, but I know it’s very expensive now
No
R410a. Ebay. Easy as that
I used it since
the channel locks were agonizing to watch
I know right thanks for watching
Rookie move with those channel locks
True dat
He thought it'd be loose. Those caps are actually seals I heard
You should have checked the two flare fittings on the outdoor unit with soapy water.. they can tend to spring a small Leak sometimes
Excellent tip thanks
Is there still a leak?
So far so good
@@TomLeemancan you advise still please I am having that problem. Thanks
Does the unit need to be running while one is checking the refrigerant level and adding refrigerant? Also, should one evacuate the unit first and again, should the unit be on or off? Thanks.
I’m gonna have to ask my HVAC guy is I’m not quite sure of what the correct answer is
Spray the coils with CLR, let it set for 30 minutes, then rinse off with garden hose.
Excellent tip. Thanks.
The salt water is killing your coils ... you can treat the coils so they don't rust out
How would you do that?
@@TomLeeman coil shield. It's a spray and chemical that you get at the supply house it's made just for that purpose. Another brand is coil guard.
I think the fella kept the cap for the service port.
Yikes I hope not
You have to go to the HVAC class and take training
I dont think he went to hvac school the way he was letting that 410a go to the compressor I'm going to have nightmares
I hope it doesn’t cost a lot
I think that AC guy needs to go, not Tom.
I am surprised the motor didn't blow up. Way-way to much liquid going in to that motor. Liquid does not condense, just put in a little at a time..
Man...a system that low needs proper evacuation, pressure test and weighted fill unless they abostely don't want to put any money in it.
Thanks for the tip. We appreciate it and thanks for watching.
Bro....you need real tools....
So true
I'm surprised that the split unit last that long with the poor non maintainance given it. At least once a year have the tech come out to clean the coils or learn to do it yourself
My thoughts exactly
Please forget that you saw this video people that don’t know what they’re doing doing shouldn’t be posting videos that can turn out to be costly due to negligence
Thanks for the kind words
Go home Karen
Ooof, you need gold coils to resist the corrosion. That's crazy after 4-5 yrs!
This thing is it least five years old
Channel locks... no freon "sniffer" to find leaks... who is the "professional"?
It certainly isn’t me
HVAC guy with the adjustable wrench & channel locks, definitely a no.. Use proper tools!
Yeah
😮😮so the guy will come back in 3days because the leak was not fixed
It’s been working fine since he did it so I guess we’re OK
@@TomLeemandon't lie😅
It was not prophesional job😢😢😢
He said he was he said he was
Dang $500 for a 5lb I just bought my 5lb tank of 410A for $190 with shipping (moving my unit higher)
That’s a great price
@@TomLeeman I'll send you an email of where I got mine
Post it please!
That was a 25lb bottle
I just bought a 25lb for under $250 delivered.
You have big leak. Why not do a bubble check at your flares or just retorque them. A mini split refrigerant gets super hot in winter then really cold in summer. That mean your flare connections contract and expand leading to leakage. So why not retorque to make sure it’s not the flare nuts loosening. Also change the Schrader valve. Those can lead to leaks over time. Most added time to a good technician would be an hour or less and worth every cent in assurances.
They’re all excellent tips thank you very much. Appreciate it and thanks for watching.
These units are fkn garbage!!!!!! I’ve installed tons of these always have issues with them. God forbid you don’t use a torque wrench on the flair fittings. I do this for a living… I would NEVER install one in my house!!
This one’s worked pretty good for a long time cross my fingers. Thanks for watching.
I don’t like talking bad about anyone in the trade, but this dude is a hack. Looks like he tried his best at slugging the compressor, didn’t pursue the vapor side hose, the channel locks were used wrong, bad info and so forth.
Yikes if anything is, is it still working good cross your fingers thanks for watching
You know
Thanks, Farah Chahine
You are using the wrench the wrong way.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching
Obviously you thought you bought a unit that would clean and service itself. At least you hired someone equally as smart as yourself, using cheap Chanel locks on brass fittings. Talk about the blind leading the blind.
Thanks for the info
How to vid, by a couple of complete knot heads.
🤣
the ignorant leading the ignorant .... the tech says "ok to fill as vapor" .... Nope, not right. ....looks like it might be an inverter type, so, superheat/subcool won't work (got to weigh it out/in)
Thanks for the tip
@@TomLeeman sorry to be the bearer of bad news. But for an inverter type system, only weighing out and weighing in can ascertain the charge conditions. Inverter systems are fantastically efficient and great when they work. They also can work well for multiple decades UNLESS the installation was flawed. Most common flaw is bad flare connections. Unfortunately those can be hard to find on complex installations. Best of luck
Ya know?
Oh, what do you think?
This video was terrible sorry 😂😂
Thanks for watching
😳
First thing that should be done is learn how to use your tools properly. . . .
You don't use "any" side.... the gauges read differently....for high and low.
You turn 410 upside down because it is 2 different chemicals mixing. Only time you don't is if you have a dual charge bottle that has the dipstick to the bottom. As it stands yall are the only dipstick on this job
Good to know thanks for the info
Boring
You can say that again
The Technician sounds like Jesse Plemons from breaking bad
I think he actually might’ve been him
Ya this guy is horrible you gotta weigh in oz. These systems can be overcharged real easy. Also ya the channel locks. Also there is a leak somewhere one hundred percent that low in four years. But ya a sniffer or pressure test.
Excellent tips thanks for watching