And a GREAT finale to the series! Seriously folks, if you are looking to do this yourself, this is the video to live by. I have the Senville Leto 12,000BTU 110v I just finished installing last week and can't say enough good things about it. I crank that puppy down to 62F and it is quiet as a mouse and keeps my bedroom ice cold, so don't poo-poo buying such an affordable system. I've watched at least 2 dozen of these videos in preparation to do mine, and I can honestly say that yours is down to the T spot-on with the mfg instructions and how I ended up doing mine. Thanks so much for a great DIY how-to!
@@billcovington5836 120 volts does not have pros at all. May be some added safety if you got electric shock. North American system of 2 hots and neutral in between is "black guy rig"
@@pecosray It was in a room about 210 sq ft. But in a 130 year old house, upstairs, no insulation, knee walls, south facing...so the room was basically an oven, thus the oversizing for those conditions.
Thanks to your video I just finished installing 3 of this unit, not one, three (3), and it was for a noble reason, I did not charge a cent, it was for a needed friend. Thank you so much. Hope this make you see how good you are doing your job, don't pay attention to any detractor of our methods, is true that is possible to safe a lot of money, and my friend did it thanks to me and you and your video. Thank you again.
Many thanks for this series - got the same model, was faced with $1700 installation offer, but your videos has saved me most of that cash. Stay excellent, live happily forever.
Really should run the pump for a couple hours in that setup. When you evacuate and check for leaks, shut off valve to the pump so it's isolated and gauge is just reading the system vacuum.
Can you please tell me if the hose that connects from gauge to pump needs to be opened before vacum and close when finish or stays close all the time. Very confused, please advise.
@@joaquinsuarez6090 Yes if I follow you correctly. The pump will vaccuum if the line is opened so I would open that line first so the hose gets vacuumed before the valve at gauge. Then when done close valve
Great series, Bob. You know, when a whole house (Central) HVAC system can run $10K plus, this unit makes so much more sense, especially when you can use two or three of them to create 4, 6, or 9 different zones. I've got a property that will be perfect for something like this should (when) the current Central unit fails. Thanks as always for taking the time to put this series up.
These units would not be bad spread throughout the house. Do this job, gives me the confidence to install my own heatpump down the road for my home. From what I understand, my heat pump should last for 20 to 25 years, so I am gong to fix it and keep it running until it lasts in whole service life. Upgrading to newer refrigerant systems is not going to pay for itself and some of the high efficency units have expensive electronic boards and the parts are not cheap.
My nephew in New Mexico went from evaporative cooling to mini splits. He has two compressor units mounted on the roof ( his house is a flat top territorial style ). Each compressor handles four air handlers. He only uses the units in the room he is occupying at the time. He works for a big plumbing and heating co. so they installed his units as a test for effectiveness. That was two years ago. So far so good. Now mind you, there is no humidity where he lives. His units are wifi so when he leaves work he turns on the appropriate units with his phone. Easy peasy. House is cool when he gets home.
Robert, that's exactly what I was thinking...the old systems cool an entire house when in fact we generally live in one section at a time, kitchen, living and den in the daytime and bedrooms at night. I think it's the future when it comes to conditioned spaces. Thanks for sharing a great example of this idea, Man!!
I have a wifi dongle for mine you can have. I am smart enough to install a mini, but not smart enough to program the wifi. Sound familiar. I guess my 10 year old neighbor could do it for me lol.
Thank you doublewide6 for this informative video! You saved me $$$. Before this video I wasn't sure if my unit came with refrigerant or if I needed a tech to come in and fill it up. I didn't realize it was locked inside the outside unit. Thank you very much and I appreciate the help you offered through this video!
Local HVAC just about force personal installation. I got a couple of bids to do my garage, all were over $5000! Lets see, $900 unit, that leaves $4100 for the install. And I already have the electrical done! So instead, I buy a $900 unit, $100 in tools, and I am $1000 into the project. Even if I screw up, worst comes to worse, I have to buy a second unit and do it over. Then I would be $1900 into the project. If the local HVAC just charged $500 for their work, I would have gladly paid them!
Yeah. AC companies in my area charge $2000+ just for labor plus any parts needed. Thank God for the people that share their knowledge here to us that can't afford to pay those crazy high prices.
Nice work on this unit, next year I plan on replacing my home heating and air conditioning unit with a Goodman. 2 years ago I installed a 45,000 BTU natural gas furnace on the ceiling of my attached garage and it worked out great. Had Home depot come in for a furnace and AC replacement and they were looking at 8000.00 same deal with Goodman and myself for around 3500.00. The guy from HD gave me a compliment and said wow at the installation work on the garage April Air install for the furnace in the basement. He gave me hints on new code for water valves for the April Air which I instituted. No more saddle valve. Changed the valves for the two refrigerators water also. I did add to wish list the minimal tools you purchased here to buy this year in anticipation of the project next year. Should be a fun project. Being DIY attention to detail is everything, the HD guy had been an inspector and he could not have been happier with the work.
If you vacuum the pipes, and you have an air leak, putting bubble solution on the connections will NOT show you the leak. That only works if the pipe is under pressure, so you would have to hook up a compressor that will pressurize the line then find the leak, then vacuum it out again.
I have an 11 year old mini split heat pump In my 28x40 metal shop It works great... My insulation is not very good. I followed the instructions and so far so good! Alabama!
Great series! I also had a really expensive quote to have one of these units installed in my garage and was debating installing it myself. After watching these, I am confident I can tackle the job. Thanks!
Great instruction,you explained everything where anyone can do this job like a professional. Thank you for taking the time to help your viewers. Good Luck!
My pump came with a very clear oil in a bottle. I just had to add it. Great video!!! I just want to add to pay attention to the connections on the blue cable. You will need to connect it opposite of the yellow hose to disengage the valve at the AC side. Do as on the video and you will be golden. I just didn't notice it at first.
@@bigpicturethinking5620 if I’m remembering installed but that price since then has gone way up. I installed it myself and bought the tools off Amazon very easy and has worked fantastic for two years.
Thanks for the walkthrough. I was quoted over $6700 on a 30k Mits install for my garage. I am going the pioneer route with a 36k system and saving myself about 4k. I am going to have a 66' run so I actually need to break the lineset vacuum and add 16 oz of refrigerant to the lineset before I open the the valves on the outside unit but on the bright side I will be able to check for leaks before I do so.
Nice video series. Very helpful. I’m on my second mini split. The first one I bought was a cheap model that lasted only 3 years before the condenser unit started springing leaks. I just bought and installed a MrCool model. Got to vacuum the line set and release the refrigerant still. Bought the same line gauges set but the adapter was the wrong size threads so waiting on a new adapter. Thanks!
Very nice videos Bob. You covered A-Z! On the lines, I would have run the vac longer, but it worked for you. I also use a digital meter to try to get below 500 microns. Gauges, especially the cheap ones, are not too accurate. As others pointed out, you would need to test for leaks with Nitrogen. I only pressure test if the lines do not hold the vacuum after 3-4 hours. I am installing a Senville now....24KBTU and you were the inspiration! . Hoping to complete next weekend. The 7/8 line is stiff! I probably will also post a video too.....not sure as yet. TNX!
I had a hard time figuring out the electrical connection for the indoor unit. Thanks for your video Part1 on how to remove the plastic covers, front and back to access the connection panel.
The 1/4" to 5/16" Pioneer brass port adapter has a schrader valve in it that you must remove. Otherwise you are only creating vacuum in the adapter itself instead of the whole system...
@@b1walsh The adapter schrader valve pin is pushed inward, when the adapter is mated to the stem valve, which has a fixed pad. Verify this by observing each component or blow thru the circuit end to end to confirm. The schrader must remain installed.
@@edsmith4414 - I can't remember whether or not I did this exactly like this guy did, but both units are installed and work beautifully. You you have a problem with the way "this guy" is doing it you should let people know what he is doing wrong so they can make the corrections. Back up your comment and educate the public.
That is a good tip. Since I'm not a pro and I was figuring that I was going to be making my own flares, I figured the nylog was a no brainer. Plus I didn't use a Micron meter or Nitrogen on the install.
Bob you did a great job on the series I was surprised how quiet it is. How about an update on the scooter after you dod all the mods and have had it awhile. Thanks for for sharing as always. Have a great weekend buddy. God Bless!!!
The first two segments were helpful understanding what was required to do the installation. However, the third segment is simply wrong. I did the math and it didn't make any sense to me. Rather than spend $3-400 buying a vacuum pump, manifold gauges, that $159 digital gauge and all the other stuff you need to do the hook up (and void the warranty), I hired a qualified AC technician to come in and do the final connections for me. he brought his own tools but, more important, he brought the knowledge and experience to make sure the final hook up was done properly. I paid the guy $350 and not only did he make the connections but he shortened the refrigerant lines to fit my installation so I didn't have coils of excess laying around (what you hid under rocks). He also brought nitrogen to test for leaks before he released the refrigerant. He even double checked my wiring before we powered it up. If the cost is about the same, why waste your time and money running around buying tools and stuff you will never use again? Better to spend your money making sure it is done right because doing it wrong can be even more costly in the long run...
Except what if there's a leak, and you're paying a guy 150/hr to find and fix. What if there's a leak 1yr down the road, again paying 150/hr to find and fix. Then your best friend sees it and want one...you don't have the tools to help him out. It's a tough call...
Well done video. Am about to install a Sennville 24000 btu dual . One question I have is each head has a 90 degree plastic hose barb included in the accessory bag. I cannot figure out their function or where they go. I have watched a few different videos but no but no one shows where it goes. It must be obvious but I'm not getting it. There is a hose barb fitting included with the compressor for the cabinet drain. Is it possible the ones included in the head units are spares? Thanks for any insight into this.
Great presentation but be more specific on using and connecting the vacuum line. I like and have used Senville units in my previous house and plan to but three of them in the near future and install them in my new house.
I need help on that too. Only shows using blue hose from gauge to ac unit but not the one from gauge to vacum and need to know asap if that one needs to be opened before vacum and close when finish or if stays close all the timr.
Question, why remove the suction hose last and lose Refrigerant when you can remove it first before releasing it? Or would that cause the vacuum to suck in air since the system would be in a vacuum state ?
Thanks for sharing. Have a question for anybody that knows. If installing inside unit on the room on top of garage just on top of the garage door. Can I bring the piping out the brick wall and then run it horizontally like 8 feet then go around corner about 4 feet and then down like 8-10 ft as long as tube reaches. Will that be ok or is bad to bend pipe many times? Please advise asap as I am installing it tomorrow. Thanks in advance.
Do you have the heatpump model? If so, did you install a drainline in the bottom of the outdoor unit? Instructions call for it, but there is no allowance for space, and there are two oval shaped holes on either side of the drain which seem to make the drain hose pointless.
Help. Im at the stage after ive added refrigerant of releasing the pump line. I have a tonnn of refrigerant spewing out and freezing the line. And this is just barely starting to unthread it. Not just a “little” like in your video. Ive tried it with the valves open like in your video, as well as the valves closed…. Are you sure i wasnt supposed to remove the pump line before charging it?
Great video, I'm almost done with the exact same unit install. Vacuum tested Great for 3 hours released freon had same result removing line slight freon release under pressure. My Guage didn't show positive pressure though. Did your Guage show positive pressure when freon lines were opened? Tomorrow I will run the 240 volt power service. I cut and flared all line sets because the pre made flares on the factory set were terrible.
I installed everything, released refrigerant and its still just blowing like a fan... have it on 62 and its blowing warm air.. any idea what it could be
Most of the dislikes will be from hvac people. Sometimes they just charge way too much. I needed a gasket for my goodman high efficient furnace. They wanted $90. plus install. I bought whole gasket set from repair clinic for $7. and did it myself.
Mini Splits are the way to go, heating and cooling, I use my 5 Mitsubishi all year long, heating and cooling. I save a fortune on cooling versus the old 13SEER AC forced air, and oil no delivery in years, electric bill barely went up in winter $40, electric dropped like $200 in hot July and August, MiniSplits are great
I'm about to install their (18000 BTU Mini Split Air Conditioner - Heat Pump - SENL/18CD/IY) . Where can I find info about what gauge wire and breaker to use for the electrical installation?
Hello, thanks for the video.. I have a question: what gauge should shouldn’t move to confirm no leak? The one hooked to low port or the one to vacuum pump? Thanks
DO NOT USE THREAD SEALANT!. Sorry to be so loud but I worked at refrigeration systems for 47 years and I know what I am talking about. The refrigerant metering device in any refrigeration system has a pin hole opening that will freeze and or simply plug solid if even a very small drop of this sealant gets into the system. This can can cause very major repair problems. If you feel the need to lubricated your flare fittings use only a small amount of refrigerant oil.
I have a dual split i just installed with both linesets being 25' each. The pressure is at 220 psi while off. Pressure drops to zero when running. Do I need to add more freon?
@@j.gutierrez2899 Can you please tell me if I have to open the gauge on the hose going to the pump before vacum and close when finish or it has to be close all the time and only open the blue hose to ac unit.
The unit comes with freon locked into the compressor and you release into the lines when everything is ready. I think these units come standard with a 16ft line set. The condenser holds enough for that line, if you need to shorten it they say you have to use at least 10ft of line or you will have to reclaim some freon because it will be too much pressure for the sorter line.
After releasing the freon into the system, why not just close the valve on the low side prior to removing the hose connection to prevent losing freon, in case it gets stuck mid-removal (I've had it happen) and then open it again after the hose connection is removed?
My question to you is when you are doing your vacuum test and opening up the lines, is the unit up and running at full blast, or is it not turned on at all?
I notice you did not nitrogen pressure test or vacuum down to 500 microns using the appropriate adapters and Micron gauge. Have you experienced any issues with your unit related to short cutting the installation procedures?
I think I messed up! I bought adapters for split ( same senville as yours) I thought I pulled a vacuum so I charged the system. I don’t think my adapter depressed the s header valve to vacuum the lines. Any thoughts about how to redo this? Tia
You did a REAL good job with this video - I have a 1000 s/f home insulated with single pan windows and located in the Northwest (Vancouver BC): which model would you suggest? With a second mini split how far can you position the mini split from the heat pump? Thank you again
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Hey so how much pressure should be in the lines
Do we need to use the nylog blue? I read some comments online saying it's not recommended.
And a GREAT finale to the series! Seriously folks, if you are looking to do this yourself, this is the video to live by. I have the Senville Leto 12,000BTU 110v I just finished installing last week and can't say enough good things about it. I crank that puppy down to 62F and it is quiet as a mouse and keeps my bedroom ice cold, so don't poo-poo buying such an affordable system. I've watched at least 2 dozen of these videos in preparation to do mine, and I can honestly say that yours is down to the T spot-on with the mfg instructions and how I ended up doing mine. Thanks so much for a great DIY how-to!
Can you tell the pros and cons with the 120 version please.
@@billcovington5836 120 volts does not have pros at all. May be some added safety if you got electric shock. North American system of 2 hots and neutral in between is "black guy rig"
12K BTU ... Whats your Sq Footage ??
@@pecosray It was in a room about 210 sq ft. But in a 130 year old house, upstairs, no insulation, knee walls, south facing...so the room was basically an oven, thus the oversizing for those conditions.
@@DyscoJen Thank you
Thanks to your video I just finished installing 3 of this unit, not one, three (3), and it was for a noble reason, I did not charge a cent, it was for a needed friend. Thank you so much. Hope this make you see how good you are doing your job, don't pay attention to any detractor of our methods, is true that is possible to safe a lot of money, and my friend did it thanks to me and you and your video. Thank you again.
This video is fantastic. Without it, I probably would have been lost. Senville should be sending you a commission
You won't see bubbles while it's under a vacuum. Bubbles can be seen if you do have a leak when system is pressurized with nitrogen preferably
Hi, thanks for this video and that you included a picture of the bag with the part number for the Pioneer adaptor. Exactly what I was looking for!
Many thanks for this series - got the same model, was faced with $1700 installation offer, but your videos has saved me most of that cash. Stay excellent, live happily forever.
Really should run the pump for a couple hours in that setup. When you evacuate and check for leaks, shut off valve to the pump so it's isolated and gauge is just reading the system vacuum.
Can you please tell me if the hose that connects from gauge to pump needs to be opened before vacum and close when finish or stays close all the time.
Very confused, please advise.
@@joaquinsuarez6090 Yes if I follow you correctly. The pump will vaccuum if the line is opened so I would open that line first so the hose gets vacuumed before the valve at gauge. Then when done close valve
two units successfully installed now. Great step by step instruction, thank you. Saved me over $10K doing this DIY
Great series, Bob. You know, when a whole house (Central) HVAC system can run $10K plus, this unit makes so much more sense, especially when you can use two or three of them to create 4, 6, or 9 different zones. I've got a property that will be perfect for something like this should (when) the current Central unit fails. Thanks as always for taking the time to put this series up.
These units would not be bad spread throughout the house. Do this job, gives me the confidence to install my own heatpump down the road for my home. From what I understand, my heat pump should last for 20 to 25 years, so I am gong to fix it and keep it running until it lasts in whole service life. Upgrading to newer refrigerant systems is not going to pay for itself and some of the high efficency units have expensive electronic boards and the parts are not cheap.
My nephew in New Mexico went from evaporative cooling to mini splits. He has two compressor units mounted on the roof ( his house is a flat top territorial style ). Each compressor handles four air handlers. He only uses the units in the room he is occupying at the time.
He works for a big plumbing and heating co. so they installed his units as a test for effectiveness. That was two years ago. So far so good. Now mind you, there is no humidity where he lives. His units are wifi so when he leaves work he turns on the appropriate units with his phone. Easy peasy. House is cool when he gets home.
Robert, that's exactly what I was thinking...the old systems cool an entire house when in fact we generally live in one section at a time, kitchen, living and den in the daytime and bedrooms at night. I think it's the future when it comes to conditioned spaces. Thanks for sharing a great example of this idea, Man!!
Robert that sounds like a nice setup. I could have gone with the wifi with the Senville unit, but I didn't think it was worth the extra cost.
I have a wifi dongle for mine you can have. I am smart enough to install a mini, but not smart enough to program the wifi. Sound familiar. I guess my 10 year old neighbor could do it for me lol.
Thank you doublewide6 for this informative video! You saved me $$$. Before this video I wasn't sure if my unit came with refrigerant or if I needed a tech to come in and fill it up. I didn't realize it was locked inside the outside unit. Thank you very much and I appreciate the help you offered through this video!
I'm just about to install on a remote island in the South Pacific... Really appreciate the details, Thank you!
I watched all 3 of your videos and my installment was flawless.. thank you so much !!👍🙏
Local HVAC just about force personal installation. I got a couple of bids to do my garage, all were over $5000! Lets see, $900 unit, that leaves $4100 for the install. And I already have the electrical done! So instead, I buy a $900 unit, $100 in tools, and I am $1000 into the project. Even if I screw up, worst comes to worse, I have to buy a second unit and do it over. Then I would be $1900 into the project. If the local HVAC just charged $500 for their work, I would have gladly paid them!
Yeah. AC companies in my area charge $2000+ just for labor plus any parts needed.
Thank God for the people that share their knowledge here to us that can't afford to pay those crazy high prices.
Thank You!.... I watched all three parts, Great tutorial!... made me decide to get a qualified person to replace the old system I have now.
Nice work on this unit, next year I plan on replacing my home heating and air conditioning unit with a Goodman. 2 years ago I installed a 45,000 BTU natural gas furnace on the ceiling of my attached garage and it worked out great. Had Home depot come in for a furnace and AC replacement and they were looking at 8000.00 same deal with Goodman and myself for around 3500.00. The guy from HD gave me a compliment and said wow at the installation work on the garage April Air install for the furnace in the basement. He gave me hints on new code for water valves for the April Air which I instituted. No more saddle valve. Changed the valves for the two refrigerators water also. I did add to wish list the minimal tools you purchased here to buy this year in anticipation of the project next year. Should be a fun project. Being DIY attention to detail is everything, the HD guy had been an inspector and he could not have been happier with the work.
The Unit came pre-charged... no need to buy any.
Great video. Got a 18000 senville on the way. Poured the pad and did all electricial already...cool seeing how everything else goes together. Thanks!
Watched all 3 videos, I'm ready for the install tomorrow. Thanks for your help.
If you vacuum the pipes, and you have an air leak, putting bubble solution on the connections will NOT show you the leak. That only works if the pipe is under pressure, so you would have to hook up a compressor that will pressurize the line then find the leak, then vacuum it out again.
I have an 11 year old mini split heat pump In my 28x40 metal shop It works great... My insulation is not very good. I followed the instructions and so far so good! Alabama!
You’ve convinced me that I can do this. My building is only 20 x 12 so my debate is 120 VAC vs the 220VAC.
Thank you
Great series! I also had a really expensive quote to have one of these units installed in my garage and was debating installing it myself. After watching these, I am confident I can tackle the job. Thanks!
Great instruction,you explained everything where anyone can do this job like a professional. Thank you for taking the time to help your viewers. Good Luck!
My pump came with a very clear oil in a bottle. I just had to add it. Great video!!! I just want to add to pay attention to the connections on the blue cable. You will need to connect it opposite of the yellow hose to disengage the valve at the AC side. Do as on the video and you will be golden. I just didn't notice it at first.
That’s for your help! I’m going to do this portion today! I’m nervous and Excited.
Thanks so much, I’m going to do it myself. My quote from HVAC was 3900$
Including the unit or just to install it?
@@bigpicturethinking5620 if I’m remembering installed but that price since then has gone way up. I installed it myself and bought the tools off Amazon very easy and has worked fantastic for two years.
Thanks for the walkthrough. I was quoted over $6700 on a 30k Mits install for my garage. I am going the pioneer route with a 36k system and saving myself about 4k. I am going to have a 66' run so I actually need to break the lineset vacuum and add 16 oz of refrigerant to the lineset before I open the the valves on the outside unit but on the bright side I will be able to check for leaks before I do so.
Installing a unit now. Thanks for the tutorial 🤠
Very, very, very good job and the install instructions and detailed video. Thank you for the confidence I will need to do 4 of these on my house.
excellent and helpful ! 3 Parts thorough shows you da mini man !
Nice video series. Very helpful. I’m on my second mini split. The first one I bought was a cheap model that lasted only 3 years before the condenser unit started springing leaks. I just bought and installed a MrCool model. Got to vacuum the line set and release the refrigerant still. Bought the same line gauges set but the adapter was the wrong size threads so waiting on a new adapter. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. How has the unit held up four years later?
Very nice videos Bob. You covered A-Z! On the lines, I would have run the vac longer, but it worked for you. I also use a digital meter to try to get below 500 microns. Gauges, especially the cheap ones, are not too accurate. As others pointed out, you would need to test for leaks with Nitrogen. I only pressure test if the lines do not hold the vacuum after 3-4 hours.
I am installing a Senville now....24KBTU and you were the inspiration! . Hoping to complete next weekend. The 7/8 line is stiff! I probably will also post a video too.....not sure as yet. TNX!
Title should be "Releasing Refrigerant", not "Adding Refrigerant" -- you didn't add any :-)
I had a hard time figuring out the electrical connection for the indoor unit. Thanks for your video Part1 on how to remove the plastic covers, front and back to access the connection panel.
Question ? After 4 years, how is the unit holding up ? I’m thinking of installing one.
Hey bro, why don't you use micron gage ! Evry refrigeration unit needs deep vacuum.
The 1/4" to 5/16" Pioneer brass port adapter has a schrader valve in it that you must remove. Otherwise you are only creating vacuum in the adapter itself instead of the whole system...
Likewise there is a Schrader in the service valve that was never removed? Not sure how you can pull a vacuum against the valve action.
@@b1walsh The adapter schrader valve pin is pushed inward, when the adapter is mated to the stem valve, which has a fixed pad. Verify this by observing each component or blow thru the circuit end to end to confirm. The schrader must remain installed.
The comment just saved my whole system. You did God's work with this comment thank you
IF it only creates vacuum in the adapter why would the gauge say minus 30?Hence the line set is under vacuum
Overall this is a really good job of explaining the install,
Good job. All three of your videos will be helpful. I'm preparing to install a 9000 BTU & 12000 BTU.
Well for God's sakes, don't do it like this guy did !!
@@edsmith4414 - I can't remember whether or not I did this exactly like this guy did, but both units are installed and work beautifully. You you have a problem with the way "this guy" is doing it you should let people know what he is doing wrong so they can make the corrections. Back up your comment and educate the public.
At work we just use vacuum pump oil on the seals and it’s always worked fine.
That is a good tip. Since I'm not a pro and I was figuring that I was going to be making my own flares, I figured the nylog was a no brainer. Plus I didn't use a Micron meter or Nitrogen on the install.
My hvac wanted to charge me $400, to vacuum the system, this looks to easy, going to do it myself
that's about the same price as the equipment you need to do it... Doing it yourself will also void your warranty.
Equipment cost me like $ 120, then return it , cost me nothing
@@ckkendrick7861Well I'm from Canada we don't usually do the douchebag rental here.
The cord clamp you used is NOT listed for outdoor wet location, you should use the round water tight style, not NM-B type clamp
Excellent video! Helpful information and is appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make and post this video, really help. Thanks,
That's a nice unit and a great install. Love your videos.
Thanks Ron. I'm happy you enjoy the channel.
SPLENDID, thank you!
great info thanks Gordon in France✌
what was the measurement for the 2 1\2 inch hole what did you come up with?
Bob you did a great job on the series I was surprised how quiet it is. How about an update on the scooter after you dod all the mods and have had it awhile. Thanks for for sharing as always. Have a great weekend buddy. God Bless!!!
Great video! They get $7k where I live in MA to install these.
The first two segments were helpful understanding what was required to do the installation. However, the third segment is simply wrong. I did the math and it didn't make any sense to me. Rather than spend $3-400 buying a vacuum pump, manifold gauges, that $159 digital gauge and all the other stuff you need to do the hook up (and void the warranty), I hired a qualified AC technician to come in and do the final connections for me. he brought his own tools but, more important, he brought the knowledge and experience to make sure the final hook up was done properly. I paid the guy $350 and not only did he make the connections but he shortened the refrigerant lines to fit my installation so I didn't have coils of excess laying around (what you hid under rocks). He also brought nitrogen to test for leaks before he released the refrigerant. He even double checked my wiring before we powered it up.
If the cost is about the same, why waste your time and money running around buying tools and stuff you will never use again? Better to spend your money making sure it is done right because doing it wrong can be even more costly in the long run...
Except what if there's a leak, and you're paying a guy 150/hr to find and fix. What if there's a leak 1yr down the road, again paying 150/hr to find and fix. Then your best friend sees it and want one...you don't have the tools to help him out. It's a tough call...
what if i told you this video is for ac technicians like me...
@@JO-lx9bx it would suggest you aren't a very good one. An AC tech would know all of this... I would hope at least...
@@artdeco18 we know it after we watch the video and take ur $500
You can get the pump and manifold set for 139.00 on amazon!
Well done video. Am about to install a Sennville 24000 btu dual . One question I have is each head has a 90 degree plastic hose barb included in the accessory bag. I cannot figure out their function or where they go. I have watched a few different videos but no but no one shows where it goes. It must be obvious but I'm not getting it. There is a hose barb fitting included with the compressor for the cabinet drain. Is it possible the ones included in the head units are spares?
Thanks for any insight into this.
Thanks for taking the time to upload this. It really helps!
I just installed one of these in my garage also. It is working great...
Great install! Any information on the power consumption or how much it costs vs a window unit AC?
Great presentation but be more specific on using and connecting the vacuum line. I like and have used Senville units in my previous house and plan to but three of them in the near future and install them in my new house.
I need help on that too.
Only shows using blue hose from gauge to ac unit but not the one from gauge to vacum and need to know asap if that one needs to be opened before vacum and close when finish or if stays close all the timr.
Question, why remove the suction hose last and lose Refrigerant when you can remove it first before releasing it? Or would that cause the vacuum to suck in air since the system would be in a vacuum state ?
Thanks for sharing.
Have a question for anybody that knows.
If installing inside unit on the room on top of garage just on top of the garage door. Can I bring the piping out the brick wall and then run it horizontally like 8 feet then go around corner about 4 feet and then down like 8-10 ft as long as tube reaches.
Will that be ok or is bad to bend pipe many times?
Please advise asap as I am installing it tomorrow.
Thanks in advance.
Multiple bends are fine, kinks are not. Bend slowly and carefully and you'll be fine
Great job brother, nicely done looks good thanks for all the info
Do you have the heatpump model? If so, did you install a drainline in the bottom of the outdoor unit? Instructions call for it, but there is no allowance for space, and there are two oval shaped holes on either side of the drain which seem to make the drain hose pointless.
I can't find where to put it neither.
Help. Im at the stage after ive added refrigerant of releasing the pump line. I have a tonnn of refrigerant spewing out and freezing the line. And this is just barely starting to unthread it. Not just a “little” like in your video.
Ive tried it with the valves open like in your video, as well as the valves closed…. Are you sure i wasnt supposed to remove the pump line before charging it?
Great video, I'm almost done with the exact same unit install. Vacuum tested Great for 3 hours released freon had same result removing line slight freon release under pressure. My Guage didn't show positive pressure though. Did your Guage show positive pressure when freon lines were opened? Tomorrow I will run the 240 volt power service. I cut and flared all line sets because the pre made flares on the factory set were terrible.
I installed everything, released refrigerant and its still just blowing like a fan... have it on 62 and its blowing warm air.. any idea what it could be
Thanks for Your help, Great Video!!!
Most of the dislikes will be from hvac people. Sometimes they just charge way too much. I needed a gasket for my goodman high efficient furnace. They wanted $90. plus install. I bought whole gasket set from repair clinic for $7. and did it myself.
excellent video series. Thank you.
Graet vid....why did u leave your hose attached when you released the e refrigerant?
Mini Splits are the way to go, heating and cooling, I use my 5 Mitsubishi all year long, heating and cooling. I save a fortune on cooling versus the old 13SEER AC forced air, and oil no delivery in years, electric bill barely went up in winter $40, electric dropped like $200 in hot July and August, MiniSplits are great
It’s been a few years now. How is the unit performing?
It's been perfect. No problems heating or cooling.
Thank you for this instructive video. Are you still happy with your Senville?
I'm about to install their (18000 BTU Mini Split Air Conditioner - Heat Pump - SENL/18CD/IY) . Where can I find info about what gauge wire and breaker to use for the electrical installation?
Check the national electric code for your area
Thanks for the video. Lots of helpful information.
Great video, thank you, keen to hear how effective it is in heating that space in the winter.
Best explanation 👌 i appreciated
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome job buddy. Love it. :)
Hello, thanks for the video.. I have a question: what gauge should shouldn’t move to confirm no leak? The one hooked to low port or the one to vacuum pump? Thanks
DO NOT USE THREAD SEALANT!. Sorry to be so loud but I worked at refrigeration systems for 47 years and I know what I am talking about. The refrigerant metering device in any refrigeration system has a pin hole opening that will freeze and or simply plug solid if even a very small drop of this sealant gets into the system. This can can cause very major repair problems. If you feel the need to lubricated your flare fittings use only a small amount of refrigerant oil.
Great info and a great series! Thank you
Thanks! I added 2.5oz R410A, upright, as a gas, to my new Pioneer 12k Mini-Split Did I do harm???
Very Good Videos. Can wait to install my Senneville.
I have a dual split i just installed with both linesets being 25' each. The pressure is at 220 psi while off. Pressure drops to zero when running. Do I need to add more freon?
H i there , could you have disconnected the blue line before opening the freon ,so you dont waste or spill the freon ? thanks
mt no because the lineset was on negative pressure and it will suck moisture in.
@@j.gutierrez2899 Can you please tell me if I have to open the gauge on the hose going to the pump before vacum and close when finish or it has to be close all the time and only open the blue hose to ac unit.
So your unit came with the refrigerant in the condenser? You didn’t have to buy precharged lines or extra refrigerant?
The unit comes with freon locked into the compressor and you release into the lines when everything is ready. I think these units come standard with a 16ft line set. The condenser holds enough for that line, if you need to shorten it they say you have to use at least 10ft of line or you will have to reclaim some freon because it will be too much pressure for the sorter line.
Very informative thank you for making such a good video..I think I'm completely capable of this install..you did all tha hard work..hahah
After releasing the freon into the system, why not just close the valve on the low side prior to removing the hose connection to prevent losing freon, in case it gets stuck mid-removal (I've had it happen) and then open it again after the hose connection is removed?
Would you recommend, This 18000 BTU To heat a 24 x28 Detached garage
Does it come with refrigerant? If not, will all three videos show me how to get the refrigerant and the tools I need to charge it?
@5:57, answer is yes for anyone else that stumbles across this.
My question to you is when you are doing your vacuum test and opening up the lines, is the unit up and running at full blast, or is it not turned on at all?
Just a simple question please.
Can you tell me if this unit, needs gas for heating ?
Or just all electric for cold and heating?
Thank you
These units need no gas, they are completely electric ran, so no gas lines needed.
What kind of oil do you add to the vacuum pump?
Which knobs on the manifold gauges did you have on? Source, vac, high and low?
Thank you!
I need to know that too asap.
Do you open the knob on hose going to pump before vacum or stays close all the time?
Very confused.
I notice you did not nitrogen pressure test or vacuum down to 500 microns using the appropriate adapters and Micron gauge. Have you experienced any issues with your unit related to short cutting the installation procedures?
Is freon in lines or unit?
I think I messed up! I bought adapters for split ( same senville as yours) I thought I pulled a vacuum so I charged the system. I don’t think my adapter depressed the s header valve to vacuum the lines. Any thoughts about how to redo this? Tia
Did you get this figured out ?
Great videos, I’m gonna give it a go.
I have a shed thats been Insulated w/ Foam 3+ inches a 350 Sq Ft Bldg. should I do 110 or 220 and is a 12K btu unit the right size?
Bonus Question : I dont need a heat, I live in South Texas. Can I get one that just has AC ??
And the 3 edition was great also, well done doublewide6. I will subscribe to you.. thanks for your help!
You did a REAL good job with this video - I have a 1000 s/f home insulated with single pan windows and located in the Northwest (Vancouver BC): which model would you suggest? With a second mini split how far can you position the mini split from the heat pump? Thank you again
You didn't show us the gauges before you unhooked the blue hose