4:22 Audi's have always been metric. It's 16mm bolt. 9:31 You can use a washer in the gap and then tighten the bolt against it to spread the opening for the ball joint. You should always clean the seat before you insert a new ball joint. 14:14 It looks like you are hammering a hex key into a Torx opening.
I turned the video off and came to comments to see who else caught this…anyone using standard wrenches I am absolutely not watching whatever else they have to say…
Would these be the cause of my slight clunk/knock sound i’m hearing when going over bumps at low speed? I’ve had the 4 front lower control arms changed a couple month back so im ruling those out, my other suspicion is the drop links (sway bars) would be great to know as the cost of those arms with labour was pretty expensive so hoping I can get this fixed pretty cheaply😭 Edit: My car is an Audi A5 B8 2.0 TDI 2016
All bolts on Audi's are metric. I ended up here because I need to replace my entire steering stub knuckle on my 2013 Q5 thanks to it being cracked right through at the ball joint you are replacing and can tell you that so far in the stripping process, the suspension bolts you removed, were 16mm, 15mm and 18mm... Also you should never reuse the bolts, as they are stretch bolts - once torqued they cannot be reused as they become brittle. If you buy a genuine ball joint from Audi, they supply it with a new bolt. And the reason that it doesn't corrode it because all the suspension parts on Audi are cast Aluminium...
Great Video! Bad Lower ball joint will cause what type of symptoms with the steerin. I have a 09 Q5 and when i turn thensteering wheelmit has a bit of play/jumpy feeling. When i drive it vibrates a bit
Check your brakes. If one side is dragging, it can have jumpy wobbly feeling while driving. Same thing happened to by 2009 Q5. Replaced the front calipers, problem solved.
Good job. For an easier method you can replace the lower arm with a new ball joint installed and a bonus of new bushes, (not an expensive part) and just 3 bolts and a nut to undo. Also you can get a neat 1/4 turn socket to spread the axle open.
@@daveraymond2265 You would need to buy a lower arm and a ball joint. OEM type quality not that expensive. Just trying to help anyone contemplating this in future. Regards
4:22 Audi's have always been metric. It's 16mm bolt.
9:31 You can use a washer in the gap and then tighten the bolt against it to spread the opening for the ball joint. You should always clean the seat before you insert a new ball joint.
14:14 It looks like you are hammering a hex key into a Torx opening.
Great tip with the washer!👊
It is a hex, not Torx
and the nut is 21 mm
I turned the video off and came to comments to see who else caught this…anyone using standard wrenches I am absolutely not watching whatever else they have to say…
Thanks for this. Awesome. Excellent filming. And I appreciate the details as you pulled it apart.
Another solid demonstration this was excellent.
Would these be the cause of my slight clunk/knock sound i’m hearing when going over bumps at low speed? I’ve had the 4 front lower control arms changed a couple month back so im ruling those out, my other suspicion is the drop links (sway bars) would be great to know as the cost of those arms with labour was pretty expensive so hoping I can get this fixed pretty cheaply😭
Edit: My car is an Audi A5 B8 2.0 TDI 2016
Nice video! What is the name of the tool which push the balljoint out from bottom?
Just google ball joint removal tool
would this procedure be the same for the q7? Also where did you find the part(Rear lower ball joint)?
All bolts on Audi's are metric.
I ended up here because I need to replace my entire steering stub knuckle on my 2013 Q5 thanks to it being cracked right through at the ball joint you are replacing and can tell you that so far in the stripping process, the suspension bolts you removed, were 16mm, 15mm and 18mm...
Also you should never reuse the bolts, as they are stretch bolts - once torqued they cannot be reused as they become brittle. If you buy a genuine ball joint from Audi, they supply it with a new bolt.
And the reason that it doesn't corrode it because all the suspension parts on Audi are cast Aluminium...
What size fork is that buddy
The wrong size 😂
The fork was stuck on the balljoint. A wider fork would have made much quicker work of it. 👊
What size fork do u think it is ?
Thanks for the reply
Какой размер зев вилки?
Great Video! Bad Lower ball joint will cause what type of symptoms with the steerin. I have a 09 Q5 and when i turn thensteering wheelmit has a bit of play/jumpy feeling. When i drive it vibrates a bit
light clunking over bumps at whatever corner has the bad joint.
Check your brakes. If one side is dragging, it can have jumpy wobbly feeling while driving. Same thing happened to by 2009 Q5. Replaced the front calipers, problem solved.
Pra quem nunca fez! Solte o parafuso do braço reto que conecta o amortecedor! Teria sido muito mais facil
Nice
is the rearward ball joint the same part?
The rearward ball joint is part of the control arm and is not sold separately. Check out my other video :ua-cam.com/video/aApasCoe2sk/v-deo.html
@@daveraymond2265 thanks for the reply. will watch
is an alignment needed afterwards?
@@sammutphil probably a good idea.
Good job. For an easier method you can replace the lower arm with a new ball joint installed and a bonus of new bushes, (not an expensive part) and just 3 bolts and a nut to undo. Also you can get a neat 1/4 turn socket to spread the axle open.
This arm does not come with the ball joint.
This ball joint is installed in the spindle.
@@daveraymond2265 You would need to buy a lower arm and a ball joint. OEM type quality not that expensive. Just trying to help anyone contemplating this in future. Regards
@@grabread I appreciate the feedback 👊
Thanks alot! Hopefully this is the clunk i hear in my a4 allroad…