![Dave Raymond](/img/default-banner.jpg)
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Dave Raymond
United States
Приєднався 29 гру 2015
Відео
ABS, Traction Control & Air Bag Light
Переглядів 10614 днів тому
How I fixed the ABS, Traction Control & Airbag Light on A Volkswagen Jetta
Lawn mower oil change and blade sharpening
Переглядів 135Місяць тому
Cub Cadet spring check-up before mowing season
Audi upper control arm
Переглядів 5803 місяці тому
How to replace the front upper control arms on an Audi.
Audi V6 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
Переглядів 3005 місяців тому
Replacing the valve cover gaskets on an Audi V6 3.2
Ford F150 Alternator Replacement
Переглядів 3045 місяців тому
Replacing the alternator on a 2010 Ford F150 with the 4.6
Engine not turning over, just clicking.
Переглядів 665 місяців тому
How I troubleshot my Johnson outboard for a click but no turnover.
Bought A Hedge Trimmer On Marketplace
Переглядів 2716 місяців тому
Fixing A Husqvarna Hedge Trimmer That Was Not Working
Audi Q5 Blower Motor Not Working
Переглядів 3,9 тис.9 місяців тому
How I got my 2010 Q5 blower motor working again.
Audi Q5 bumper tail light Bulb Replacement
Переглядів 22 тис.Рік тому
Audi Q5 bumper tail light Bulb Replacement
Good Job Dave, nice mower! Have an LT 2042 here to service, like yours it looks like new! Love Cub Cadets. From Sophia, N.C.
When you finally got the OK, how far away was the target from the car, how far away was the camera from the car, and how high was the top row of dots? Without that information, the rest is just wasted.
Did you watch the entire video?
Yes, several times. Please tell me the times on your video where you are telling the distance from the car, the distance from the camera, the height of the target, and the angle that the target is making with the car.
@@Billnn546:10 is where it worked for me
@@daveraymond2265 At 6:07 you show the target. Simply tell us how far the target is from the car, how far you have the target set away from the camera, how high the target is from the ground, and how much you have to rotate the target. 4 things. We can NOT determine these figures from your simple photo. Is that too hard for you to understand? Ifff so, I will try a diferent explanation.
@@Billnn54 just move it around until you get an OK. Is that too hard for you to understand?
Clean contacts of misfiring cylinder connector, check plug condition and gap(correct if necessary), add injector cleqaner to the gas. If these don't work, swap coils to isolate it.
Thanks for the video! 🙏
How far away from the car do you set the target?
but how to put belt back on? 😂
Finally! Someone who shows and explains these issues. Just wishing to hear sound before fixing. Still great video)
I wonder if it’s possible to drill through the top like the pro +
Nice work on the video, very helpful to me in getting my TL timing set. Thank you
My 2015 SQ5 used a standard Phillips screw, not the Torx style, look closely before you purchase a T-25 Torx screwdriver.
What was the ratio of water to degreaser?
Maybe 50/50. Try to keep it off the exterior paint for any period of time
I added Schrader valve. I made sure the valve wasn’t underneath the handle.
So my clutch fan broke and the blades punctured my radiator. So I had to order a new radiator as well as new fan motor and blades. I heard you saw you don’t run the fan so I was just wondering if there is any issues like overheating or running hot in general? Would greatly appreciate any insight lol 😊
I like it
Did you listen with a mechanics stethoscope and pinpoint the noise?
No, it was very obvious that it was coming from the right side of the motor so I just removed the valve cover to investigate. It was also pretty obvious it was a valve train tapping and not a crank knocking sound.
Please what is the number of the timing belt I could use for mine
A BIGThanks to you... I was messing around in the secret setting and messed up my camera alignment. With your specific advice, I restore my camera to a working state after two tries.. I won't be messing around with any more settings. lol
Same problem with my Audi, only... The motors on my lock are manufactured with the Brushes at the Drive end of the Motor, and there's no way of getting the drive gear off the shaft to get to them. I can see the commutator is messed up but can't get to it to clean it all up. (A3 2013 8v)
Great job and i love the blue tooth Autel I have the MX808 but it’s hardwired to the OBD2 cable..having scanner at where you are working is really helpful. Great job in getting the sensor out .. with all the corrosion I was thinking it’s going to snap, I have ‘13 Jetta wagon TDI with same LR sensor malfunction codes .. great timing on this video, I suspect broken tone/magnetic ring.. good video
Good investigation. Very informative video
Dave thanx a lot bro you helped me out.. I was hooking the other black wire from the switch to the white wire coming out of the wall.. and got. BOOM!!💥💥but no fire🙏🏾.. now I can go set up my lights thanx again Dave🙏🏾
Very helpful video - best one out there on this topic for sure. I was able to disassemble and clean the motor communtator and brushes. However, reassembly of the whole unit has proved impossible. Sooo, rolling the dice on a used one on ebay. see how long that lasts! German engineering!! Total Crap!
Yes, it was a bit tricky to reassemble 👊
I have a 2013 identical to yours. The exhaust pipe is larger than yours and extends out past the hood. It does get warm but nothing melted other than the snow blade latch cable which I misrouted first time I installed. Been a good tractor other than lift motor came apart while plowing.
Mine has been good so far 👊
Would these be the cause of my slight clunk/knock sound i’m hearing when going over bumps at low speed? I’ve had the 4 front lower control arms changed a couple month back so im ruling those out, my other suspicion is the drop links (sway bars) would be great to know as the cost of those arms with labour was pretty expensive so hoping I can get this fixed pretty cheaply😭 Edit: My car is an Audi A5 B8 2.0 TDI 2016
I have 400 hours on mine and the hood is not melting
That’s crazy how tight that was 😮
What is the diameter of the cup that you pulled the hub bearing into?
Is this guy a salesman for CNC? I actually fell for this BS and tried it. Nothing was accomplished. All I did was irritate my Audi). Don’t waste your time, and $17 on a can with this method. All you’re doing is polishing the inside of the throttle body intake with this method. The carbon buildup is like a few layers of dried paint and way of removing is with hard work, which means an afternoon of taking the throttle body apart. It’s a waste trust me.
Agreed, I fell for it too. It doesn't even clean the throttle body, it does splash on the back of the valves but does very little to clean them. The back of the valves need to be scraped clean or better yet walnut blasted to get them clean. I'll take the old port fuel injection any day.
@@daveraymond2265 I wish there was a DIY walnut blaster or something similar. I could do myself in my driveway at home, because I could imagine how expensive Audi) would charge to do something on this level. I have seen one very useful video clip of an Asian guy that uses little chipping, tools, throttle body cleaner/brake cleaner, brushes with a vacuum cleaner. He does a very thorough and neat job and pretty much gets rid of all the black Goop piled up in the exhaust housing.I think this is going to be my next project on the vehicle because I honestly cannot afford to take my vehicle to an Audi shop and have them do it
mine shows connection NG , why?
Thanks man. It worked great!!
Man this stinks. Not the video, the vid is great, I'm just doing my valve stem seals since it's sucking down a lot of oil, and needless to say it's going to be... involved.
I have the same model, a 2.8 V6 Manual quattro. Mine is an Avant model though. Love your videos!
Thank you 👊
Pra quem nunca fez! Solte o parafuso do braço reto que conecta o amortecedor! Teria sido muito mais facil
Yes this is it
You have your vacuum hose connected to the wrong port. The port on the left side (where you have your reclaimer hose connected) is for fresh air to enter the cabinet, and the port on the back right is where you connect your vacuum reclaimer system. The way you have it setup, you will be pulling out more of the blast media then anything else. The port on the back right is baffled to keep the media in the cabinet and the dust out of the cabinet. What you are seeing in the deputy while you are blasting, is mostly the blast media. Set it up correctly, and your system will work much better, and you will collect more dust from the parts you blast than the media.
I believe I have it set up correctly. It is the media that is flying around inside the cabinet that makes it difficult to see what I am doing.The media dust being drawn out the side makes for much better visibility when I am blasting. The media that is collected can be reused 👊
@@daveraymond2265 The baffle on the inside back of the cabinet is designed to force the media down to the bottom of the cabinet while pulling the air out of the cabinet, instead of pulling the media out with the air. The whole purpose of the baffle is to keep the media in the cabinet. Think of it like a gold mining sluice box. The water/dirt mixture flows over the box grating, and the gold falls out of the water and gets trapped in the bottom because it’s heavier than the water. The port that you are pulling the air out of, is supposed be the filtered air inlet. You will be able to see better because the baffle directs the air/media mixture away from the viewing window, and you will not pull as much media out of the cabinet if you set it up like I have described. I have four of these cabinets that I use in stages, with media grits ranging from fine to course. One of my four cabinets is setup for vapor blasting, which I use as the final stage. All of my cabinets are setup as I described above.
great additional video to your lacing video.
great tutorial. The only think i would add is anti--seize to the threads.
Thank you!
Thank you for the video. Wow. I'm at AUDI now getting my oil change and asked them to check that left back tail light in my Q5 They want to replace the whole assembly 😮. I think I'll do it myself now. Appreciate the video. They are not getting an arm and leg from me today 😅
Not today!👊
Super helpful video, do you have any tips about how to get the front lower arm back into the end alignment? Got the ball joint in the spindle and attached back to the shock, but just cant get it back into the final back alignment to screw in
Heat, then cool. Heat then cool. Heat then cool.
Some wd40 should deter the rodents. With automakers ALL using the soy-based wiring. The rodents wouldn't make homes or eat the wires if they would stop using the cheap soy-based wiring harnesses.
Great idea, thank you 👊
Nice job Dave. Did the same thing yesterday by myself, used the Motiv Power Bleeder though. What manual are you using?
Thank you. I use Mitchell online
Thank you.
One suggestion would be to turn your bolts around. The less material you have sticking out the more easily snow will clear from the working side of the impellor. Carriage bolts would be even better.
Thanks 4 the information
That discharge chute is quite short compared to most modern blowers. That might be worth looking into as well.
What are the details on the new light bulbs? Brand, part number? I'd like to pick-up a set of the same bulbs.
Great video thanks for sharing
Replaced new blower and resistor at first was blowing but not high and now it's not blowing at all, help!
Thanks for posting, is that lock module for a pre 2008 Audi, would you happen to know what the OEM part number is? I thought Audi locks had 2 motors but I'm not sure 🤷🏻♂️
When your done with brakes, and you plugged in the wire harness for the electric brakes, how do you re engage? Run the switch on the console when your done or did you do something else?
Just operate normally from driver seat 👊
@@daveraymond2265 Thank you. I suspect once I turn off and on it goes back to nromal and all. I was just not sure.