Okay I found the reference I was looking for. If you don't want to use computer controlled everything and you've just got dead simple lead acid batteries going to a DC motor and you want to be able to correct to control the speed of the DC motor without computers and all the other nonsense use what this guy did which is a franken switch made out of copper plates and PVC pipe Look for the UA-cam video titled "Construction Boat 0064 Franken-Switch!" It's dirt cheap you don't need all this computerized stuff. It's much more rugged. Obviously it's easy to fix cuz there's almost nothing to do it. Again it's dirt cheap. Lead acid batteries are dead simple and all the computer stuff that they sell these days makes it far too complicated and expensive. Spend the money instead on more used lead acid batteries and make your own switches and speed controllers. And don't worry so much about overcharging them. It's relatively easy to make a mechanical disconnect when voltage gets to a certain level. So you don't need a lot of computer control for that either. Good good luck!
Hi, Scotty a highly interesting video, however, it`s for me a utopia to do something like that what you accomplished, I really understand too little about the complexity of electric behavior. You have a really great understanding of this theme👍🏻👏🏻🇺🇸🙏🏻🇳🇴🇳🇱. greetings, Hubertus.
Thanks for watching my videos. Bet Louis bus later after this 12v issue finally failed to to the bus bars he made. He made them on the batteries from Home Depot aluminum. He bent them and used them. When you bend these you will get fractures. Bet the current eventually opened one up. No go. Only use copper! You saw me do them in my videos. Thanks
His ultimate breakdown in the main battery pack could very well be a broken bus bar. I hope he goes back and does an autopsy and shows us the opened battery boxes. Would be good information for us to have. Thanks for following me as well. I can't wait to see your bug on the road.
thanks for this video. we are currently planning to use a small 12V LiFePo4 battery in ours and just hook it up to the DC-DC converter (which has a nominal output of 14V). Are there any issues with doing that?
I'm not an expert at this, so please get more opinions. My fear of connecting any lithium pack directly to the DC-DC is overcharging. Either you construct the 12-volt pack with a BMS capable of shunting the additional charge current of the DC-DC or construct a circuit like I mentioned in the video where the DC-DC and the 12-volt battery never "touch" each other and use a DC-DC lithium charger (like that renogy unit) in between. Again, I am not an expert on batteries, so get more opinions. I would be interested to know how you end up implementing it. Keep in touch!
My only concern with any lithium chemistry is connecting it to the DC-DC converter and overcharging it. I'm not familiar with LTO cells, but check whether they are ok with being connected to a "dumb" charge source like the DC-DC converter.
I'm going to blow your mind. Except for your charging system which of course it has to be solid state and computer control if you're running a lead acid batteries as your pack it's more efficient to use direct contact charging and throttle into it DC motor. Forget all the computerized stuff. A direct contact no computer chip system where if you want to go faster it shifts the wiring of your pack to more batteries in parallel giving you lower voltage. Then when it's off it's off and when it's on it's on and all these computer chips and all these other things are using power. But direct contact controllers which you can literally make from a hinge and multiple arrangements of wires contacting that hinge in different positions does not have any parasitic load unless it's on. In our zeal to have everything be fancy and computer controlled we forget just how simple batteries are. If you want your motor to go faster you wired more batteries into series configuration. If you want it to go slower you shift the rotary dial that on the fly rewires the batteries to have more of them in parallel to lower the voltage. It's that simple.
Thanks for watching! If I understand what you are saying, you recommend making a motor controller out of a series of manual knife switches? Since I already have my DC controller and motor, I think I will stick with that as it will be much easier and safer to drive the car. A controller made of a series of switches or contactors may work in other applications though. Also, my friend who used deep cycle lead acid batteries in his build typically only got about 18 months to 2 years out of a set of batteries. It was almost a daily driver for him though. A decent lithium chemistry (although more work implement) can get more like 7-10 years. I think for this high drain type application, lithium is the better value in the long run.
Great video, and thanks for sharing. I wish I had your skills in regards to converting my VW Bus to electric.
Okay I found the reference I was looking for. If you don't want to use computer controlled everything and you've just got dead simple lead acid batteries going to a DC motor and you want to be able to correct to control the speed of the DC motor without computers and all the other nonsense use what this guy did which is a franken switch made out of copper plates and PVC pipe
Look for the UA-cam video titled "Construction Boat 0064 Franken-Switch!"
It's dirt cheap you don't need all this computerized stuff. It's much more rugged. Obviously it's easy to fix cuz there's almost nothing to do it. Again it's dirt cheap. Lead acid batteries are dead simple and all the computer stuff that they sell these days makes it far too complicated and expensive. Spend the money instead on more used lead acid batteries and make your own switches and speed controllers. And don't worry so much about overcharging them. It's relatively easy to make a mechanical disconnect when voltage gets to a certain level. So you don't need a lot of computer control for that either. Good good luck!
Hi, Scotty a highly interesting video, however, it`s for me a utopia to do something like that what you accomplished, I really understand too little about the complexity of electric behavior. You have a really great understanding of this theme👍🏻👏🏻🇺🇸🙏🏻🇳🇴🇳🇱. greetings, Hubertus.
Thanks for watching my videos. Bet Louis bus later after this 12v issue finally failed to to the bus bars he made. He made them on the batteries from Home Depot aluminum. He bent them and used them. When you bend these you will get fractures. Bet the current eventually opened one up. No go. Only use copper! You saw me do them in my videos. Thanks
His ultimate breakdown in the main battery pack could very well be a broken bus bar. I hope he goes back and does an autopsy and shows us the opened battery boxes. Would be good information for us to have. Thanks for following me as well. I can't wait to see your bug on the road.
thanks for this video. we are currently planning to use a small 12V LiFePo4 battery in ours and just hook it up to the DC-DC converter (which has a nominal output of 14V). Are there any issues with doing that?
I'm not an expert at this, so please get more opinions. My fear of connecting any lithium pack directly to the DC-DC is overcharging. Either you construct the 12-volt pack with a BMS capable of shunting the additional charge current of the DC-DC or construct a circuit like I mentioned in the video where the DC-DC and the 12-volt battery never "touch" each other and use a DC-DC lithium charger (like that renogy unit) in between. Again, I am not an expert on batteries, so get more opinions. I would be interested to know how you end up implementing it. Keep in touch!
What's your thoughts on an LTO battery instead of a SLA/Gel one for the 12v? The sag and the base level could be easier to deal with.
My only concern with any lithium chemistry is connecting it to the DC-DC converter and overcharging it. I'm not familiar with LTO cells, but check whether they are ok with being connected to a "dumb" charge source like the DC-DC converter.
I'm going to blow your mind. Except for your charging system which of course it has to be solid state and computer control if you're running a lead acid batteries as your pack it's more efficient to use direct contact charging and throttle into it DC motor. Forget all the computerized stuff. A direct contact no computer chip system where if you want to go faster it shifts the wiring of your pack to more batteries in parallel giving you lower voltage. Then when it's off it's off and when it's on it's on and all these computer chips and all these other things are using power. But direct contact controllers which you can literally make from a hinge and multiple arrangements of wires contacting that hinge in different positions does not have any parasitic load unless it's on. In our zeal to have everything be fancy and computer controlled we forget just how simple batteries are. If you want your motor to go faster you wired more batteries into series configuration. If you want it to go slower you shift the rotary dial that on the fly rewires the batteries to have more of them in parallel to lower the voltage. It's that simple.
Thanks for watching! If I understand what you are saying, you recommend making a motor controller out of a series of manual knife switches? Since I already have my DC controller and motor, I think I will stick with that as it will be much easier and safer to drive the car. A controller made of a series of switches or contactors may work in other applications though. Also, my friend who used deep cycle lead acid batteries in his build typically only got about 18 months to 2 years out of a set of batteries. It was almost a daily driver for him though. A decent lithium chemistry (although more work implement) can get more like 7-10 years. I think for this high drain type application, lithium is the better value in the long run.