Відео

Thanks! There is a link directly to the product in the video description.

That is terrible! I would get a warranty replacement if that happens. I have not experienced any issues yet, but mine is just under a year old. Hopefully Genie will help you get that resolved and it was just an isolated problem.

I don't have an air filter, but I show in my advanced flush video how to clean the inlet water filter (if that is what you meant). ua-cam.com/video/CfC-WXNDnHo/v-deo.html

You're welcome! Thanks for watching.

If it's only making a small sound, I would confirm your power is connected properly. If the power unit is designed for 220v, confirm you have both hot wires with 110v between each wire and the ground or 220v across both hots. Even when I primed my unit, it was loud and shook from the torque, so my guess is you are missing something in the wiring.

I think I mentioned in this video that in a previous video (ua-cam.com/video/44su3MaCbqs/v-deo.html), I already replaced the wheel hub. I still had the code after that, so I replaced the sensor in this video and the code finally stayed clear. It could be either the hub or the sensor or both. I can't tell you for sure which one, but if you can do it yourself, I would replace both.

Nice! I'm proud of you too 😊

Thanks so much for watching and your kind words. All the best on your bus repair/restoration!

Thanks for watching! I am actually converting this '78 to electric drive and am using a '72 transmission. So the axles are basically the same throughout the years. The only thing that may be a little different is the bearings. I think the part numbers are different from 68-70 vs 71 and up. But they look very similar, so I image the process to install them is the same. But I am not a VW guru, so please ask for other opinions or look up information in thesamba.com. Good luck on your new project. Very exciting!

Thanks! Yes, I am going for a custom look. Hope your restoration is going well!

@@FixItScotty Yes thanks

Thanks! Glad you liked it.

I'm just an amateur plumber, so I would have to take Kohler's opinion. I did another video showing how to replace Moen and Delta cartridges (ua-cam.com/video/lUIi0EqFUXw/v-deo.html). Kohler was the first one I have seen where the cartridge is in two parts: the mixing valve and the pressure balancer. Delta and Moen have those two parts combined in one cartridge. So it is quite possible that the mixing valve part of the cartridge is usually to blame for the leaking. I'm not sure.

Thanks for the great information!

@@FixItScotty Its awesome when we can use our experiences to help one another. I like how you repost to show corrections that takes a lot of integrity on your part👏👍!

Glad you got your oven fixed too! And thanks for the info on the ignitor. It sounds like how a gas furnace works; there is a few seconds of delay after the ignitor glows before the gas valve opens .

Thanks for watching. I am not sure what is causing your clicking sound. If it's not a loose axle bolt or something in the transmission, then it may be something wrong inside the CV joint.

@@FixItScottyI think I should replace all of mine...ua-cam.com/video/z_Irpx2oKKs/v-deo.html. Regrading the "washer" on some parts and holes of different shape, don't know if it make a difference, but on mine the ones with washer and weird shaped openings were on the passenger side. The other ones on the driver side. So not one of each on each of the sides. Not sure if it matters.

Thanks! Well, technically I am a software engineer with a Computer Science degree. Close enough...

Mine isn't very fast either, but 20 seconds seems quite slow. I would try disengaging the door opener and try lifting the door open and closed yourself. If you struggle greatly, it could mean your spring isn't tensioned properly or there are issues in the track or rollers. Although unlikely, you could also be on the wrong drum setting on the door opener.

As a pro, I hope you didn't take my video as a slight to you or the business. You absolutely should upcharge for parts and make sure your labor costs cover business expenses. This is more of an issue with code getting in the way of a reasonable fix. I'm not knocking code; it is necessary to protect from shoddy workmanship. But in addition to the code violations you mentioned, another code violation I would have gotten was, specifically in the city of Chicago, you can't use plastic drain piping on a building with more than 3 stories. This was a 4 story building (all residential). That's why the original plumber was likely going with all copper fittings. So that is 4 code violations. But, for this under-sink plumbing that has been working great for 3.5 years, these code violations don't really seem that much of a concern. Also, is it even normal to get a code inspection for simple undersink repairs like this?

I would love to have replaced mine as well, but I didn't want to fork over that much $$ along with all of the other restoration parts I had to buy. I hope your restoration is going well. Thanks for watching!

The instructions for this does have a section describing how to remove the plug and hard wire it if you choose. Follow local codes as to the type and size of wire.

Thanks 👍

Thanks! Hope you found it helpful.

Thanks! Good information.

My trim level is the XLE. I am not sure if there are differences in the roof rail mounts between that and the LE.

@@FixItScotty Thanks for the quick response, I was figuring that you had something higher than the LE. I saw a post on Reddit that said something about the LE having a different set up (it doesn't have a hold to screw anything into - craziness!). Anyway, thanks again!

I haven't memorized the codes for this heater, but it does seem like your heater is suffering from scale buildup and is not functioning properly as a result. I would suggest you use a chemical descaler like this product: amzn.to/4a5T0sv. You will do it the same way I showed here or in my follow-up video, but follow the directions on the product for specific mixing and flushing instructions. I can't really explain why you are getting better hot water further away from the heater though. That is a head scratcher!

Ian, the brake vacuum pump implementation is already done. If you go to the EV Conversion playlist at the end of the video or on my channel page, I discuss the vacuum pump itself in Part 3 and install it in Part 4. Neither of these videos focus on it specifically, so if you still have questions, let me know.

@@FixItScotty sorry, my bad. I’ve gone back and for anyone else, Ep 3, about 26:00 is the discussion. I need to go back and watch the whole thing. It’s an epic!

I don't have experience draining boilers. There are several plumbing videos (ex: www.youtube.com/@stevenlavimoniere) that show how to purge or drain down a boiler. Make sure you are watching a video for a hydronic boiler, not a steam boiler, because they have different draining instructions.

@@FixItScotty Thanks, I will check that out.

As long as you are familiar with re-lighting the pilot, I don't see a reason why you can't shut the gas valve off during the summer to save money.

@@FixItScotty Thanks for the reply. I had to light the pilot light initially when we bought the house a year ago, so I'm pretty confident about it.

You are very welcome 🙂.

I haven't removed the pads since installing them, so I can't say for sure if there has been water intrusion. But the pads do fully cover the openings in the roof and I haven't seen any rust develop over the last couple years. So I think they are fine.

Thank you! To answer your question, yes. The torsion spring lightens the total load of the door considerably. So whether you have this type unit or a chain drive, they are not capable of lifting the full weight of the door without the spring.

@@FixItScotty appreciated!!! Thank you for your response and explanation

I'm not experienced with other units, but my has always made that front-cover clunk when it starts up. At this point, it is 4 years old and has worked flawlessly. So I assume it is normal.

@@FixItScotty OK good to know! Thanks a bunch!

Did you spray soapy bubbles on the fittings to see where it is leaking? What type of dope or sealant did you use on your pipe fittings? If you cross-threaded the riser in your tank and messed up the threads, you may have to re-tap them.

I just couldn't get any good footage of the installation because of how tight the space is. And it was quite boring and meticulous. I just installed similar to how you would install the VW engine - by jacking it up from the bottom on my modified jack board. For my last conversion, the Spitfire, I joined the engine to the transmission beforehand and installed as one piece with a hoist from the top. Since VW engines go in from underneath, I just decided to do one piece at a time. I was careful to get everything aligned so as not to stress anything. I'm sure suspending the components to join them would be ideal, but geesh, if the clutch and coupler were that fragile, they probably shouldn't be in your motor 😀. Anyway, like anything else, I will just have to thoroughly test it before I actually start driving it. More to come. Thanks for watching Ian!

Thanks, I am looking forward to the first drive too. Take care!

I normally use jack stands. This repair was very quick and I wasn't really under the car, so I took the risk.

Thanks! Yes, I was forced to learn a lot about Bay window bus transmissions during the course of this process.

Excellent!

Thanks!!

I keep hearing about tankless installations without maintenance valves. That's a shame; not sure why builders are doing this. In my advanced flush video (linked in my top comment), I talk a little about alternative maintenance valves. Thanks for watching! 🙂

First let me say, congrats on your upcoming project. It sounds REALLY cool! Second, I have ZERO experience doing an EV conversion using an OEM production setup like the Leaf, Tesla, or Volt. Those options are a little different than the lower voltage Warp9/Hyper9/HPEV setups. That said, I still lean toward using a clutch on any conversion that involves using the stock transaxle of the classic vehicle. Just my opinion. Now if you were to leverage the full drivetrain of the Leaf including the transmission to turn your axles, that would be ideal. But I think you would be happier in the long run having access to different gearing while driving. Like I mentioned below, in my previous Spitfire conversion, I would often just leave it in 3rd gear and drive it like an automatic in town (0 to 45 mph). But if I wanted a snappy start, I could put it in 2nd to take off and upshift from there. That's not to say you can't still choose gears with direct drive, but it's difficult to shift while moving. Also, for me, the clutch is a safety feature. If something goes wrong with the contactor or controller, I don't need a cockpit battery shutoff or anything. I can just kick the clutch and the engine is disengaged. Anyway... there's a lot to consider. My upcoming video will discuss the T2 transmission a little more, so be sure to check that out and let me know if you have any other questions.

@@FixItScotty thanks for your thoughts there. I’m definitely approaching this in a slightly conservative manner. I have a working 74 T2 that I aim to convert. But rather than destroying a working bus, I’ve got hold of a complete rust bucket that will be my prototype test bed. Once I’m happy I can transfer the results over. Yes I plan to keep the original transmission. The other advantage of reusing the Leaf setup is keeping the 50kW charging via Chademo. It’s not a common charge format, but there’s now a CCS adaptor so I could take the bus anywhere. (Im in the UK BTW). Most DIY conversions I’ve seen have low charging speed. Fine for a day trip maybe, but going to festivals is no good if you need a 10 hour recharge en route! The Resolve EV controller should manage all the complexities, plus allows me to upgrade to a higher capacity Leaf battery once it’s all proven working. Looking forward to your next episodes.