Awesome video here ! I had to subscribe after watching your Dart LS block decking video..I have seen these Motown II blocks for sale with all 5 main caps being 4 bolt with the center 3 Billet splayed caps.. it sure looks pretty after all the machine work you have done here..
Great video! Thanks for filming the process. Do you use a vitrified stone or diamond for the rough honing, and what grit do you use for the finish hone? Do you plateau as a final step? That vintage CV -10 with your skill really holds a very tight tolerance. Well done!
we us a vitrified stone because we don't have enough HP to turn a diamond stone. The finish stone is usually an 825, but different strokes depending on the block. I will usually plateau on the moly ring stuff, but it will generally smooth out the bore too much on the stainless rings. But it really varies depending on the type of block or the sleeves we have in it. Thats why you have to measure everything!
Is it true that the 4032 forged pistons are better for a mostly street used engine over the 2618 forged variety ? I remember the first ever engine I built for my 1967' Camaro way back in 1983'-1984 I had purchased a TRW engine module kit for the 327 engine going to be used with the forged flat top pistons and matching rings and the rest of the goodies..I don't know what type of material was used for the pistons..but they were really heavy but handled my occasional 8000 rpm foot to the floor stomps with no problem until it finally spun a rod bearing. I have read that the 4032's are for some reason better suited for engines that will live mostly on the street..maybe the thermal expansion rate and less piston noise ? I sure would appreciate your opinions on this because I want to build an engine that will last and use the knowledge I have gained since the 327 I built way back then.@@paragonengines1924
@@rosskrause3926 The 4032 has a higher silicon content which yields a lower expansion rate but weaker material. 2618 has a higher expansion rate and is stronger and more forgiving, but requires more clearance. Either material can be used on the street with modern piston tech, but HP and racing discipline should be the main concern when selecting a piston.
How far off was the deck side to side? You showed the length, but I didn't see anything about the width. I know stock gm blocks are far from square, I'm just curious how this one compares.
The level of the deck surface is measured during the probing cycle and the machine just sets the A-axis so it is flat. I usually check the height difference between the sides and cut to match, but I generally don't have enough material to make the deck surfaces 90* to each other. This block was much straighter than GM blocks, I can say that for sure!
@@paragonengines1924 I am interested in why your not able to get them 90° if we may have that conversation. Is it certain blocks or? I square all our blocks and although older Chevys can be quite out, I can only think of one I couldn't true up the way I like. A lot of the later Chevys (like 80's and up) I am measuring only 4 to 6 thou out usually. Just did two in a row that dialed with 0.002" TIR durimg setup.
@@whiplashmachine I'd like to know also, only thing I can think of is maintaining the piston to deck the customer wanted. Wouldn't think it would be that far off though. Just from hearsay the world products don't normally check as good as dart which was odd to hear that. I assume cam and main bores were checked.
Awesome video here ! I had to subscribe after watching your Dart LS block decking video..I have seen these Motown II blocks for sale with all 5 main caps being 4 bolt with the center 3 Billet splayed caps.. it sure looks pretty after all the machine work you have done here..
They are nice blocks and they turn out great when the machine work is done right!
Also I got the shirt in. Thank you very much. I love the design.
Awesome! Thank you!
Very nice brother. Thank you for the content.
My pleasure!
Thank you for your knowledge 💪🏽 USA 🇺🇸 USA 🇺🇸
You're welcome!
That’s what I’m talking about 👍
Yes sir!
I wondered how priorite main oiling was routed. I wish they would have done ls engines like that
Same, but most of the aftermarket blocks fixed that problem.
cool stuff
Thank you!
Great video! Thanks for filming the process. Do you use a vitrified stone or diamond for the rough honing, and what grit do you use for the finish hone? Do you plateau as a final step? That vintage CV -10 with your skill really holds a very tight tolerance. Well done!
we us a vitrified stone because we don't have enough HP to turn a diamond stone. The finish stone is usually an 825, but different strokes depending on the block. I will usually plateau on the moly ring stuff, but it will generally smooth out the bore too much on the stainless rings. But it really varies depending on the type of block or the sleeves we have in it. Thats why you have to measure everything!
@@paragonengines1924 Thank you for the information.
Is it true that the 4032 forged pistons are better for a mostly street used engine over the 2618 forged variety ? I remember the first ever engine I built for my 1967' Camaro way back in 1983'-1984 I had purchased a TRW engine module kit for the 327 engine going to be used with the forged flat top pistons and matching rings and the rest of the goodies..I don't know what type of material was used for the pistons..but they were really heavy but handled my occasional 8000 rpm foot to the floor stomps with no problem until it finally spun a rod bearing.
I have read that the 4032's are for some reason better suited for engines that will live mostly on the street..maybe the thermal expansion rate and less piston noise ?
I sure would appreciate your opinions on this because I want to build an engine that will last and use the knowledge I have gained since the 327 I built way back then.@@paragonengines1924
@@rosskrause3926 The 4032 has a higher silicon content which yields a lower expansion rate but weaker material. 2618 has a higher expansion rate and is stronger and more forgiving, but requires more clearance. Either material can be used on the street with modern piston tech, but HP and racing discipline should be the main concern when selecting a piston.
How far off was the deck side to side? You showed the length, but I didn't see anything about the width. I know stock gm blocks are far from square, I'm just curious how this one compares.
The level of the deck surface is measured during the probing cycle and the machine just sets the A-axis so it is flat. I usually check the height difference between the sides and cut to match, but I generally don't have enough material to make the deck surfaces 90* to each other. This block was much straighter than GM blocks, I can say that for sure!
@@paragonengines1924 I am interested in why your not able to get them 90° if we may have that conversation. Is it certain blocks or? I square all our blocks and although older Chevys can be quite out, I can only think of one I couldn't true up the way I like. A lot of the later Chevys (like 80's and up) I am measuring only 4 to 6 thou out usually. Just did two in a row that dialed with 0.002" TIR durimg setup.
@@whiplashmachine I'd like to know also, only thing I can think of is maintaining the piston to deck the customer wanted. Wouldn't think it would be that far off though. Just from hearsay the world products don't normally check as good as dart which was odd to hear that. I assume cam and main bores were checked.
Great video - nice work 👍
Thank you 👍
My dingle ball hone does the same thing
And I bet a handheld belt sander will get the deck to the right height too! lol
@Paragon Engines depends how much you have to take off🙂