Hi! Thanks for making this video. It's very hard to find information about these cars. I got a German manual but it's still great to see someone do things to the car. I wish to say to you that I think you have a good style, and should keep at these videos. With time you would be quite refined. Your humour lends well to the format. If you're talking about things use a pointer to point them out so lesser skilled people will know what you are talking about. I've my car over two years, 63000 km on motorways, city and wild country roads, and all I've done to it is oil, filters, sparks, brakes pads and discs. I want to buy another car just to try it, but I don't want to sell this one either. Such a great strong little bus !!! Also can fit a bike inside without taking the wheel off!!
Thanks for the feedback. Unfortunately I don't own this car anymore, I just found it too flimsy and not that great at speed. I've replaced it with an old Corolla instead.
@@Scrubworks lol. Wrong car for speed for sure! Can't beat a Corolla! Solid cars! Sure do videos on that instead. I guess nothing will go wrong with it is the problem!
Thank you so much I have the same problem with my car same make and the way to change the clutch is the easiest I have seen so far thank you very much !!! the fix costs me 6万円 600 dollars approximately
Useful video, thanks. I wouldn't necessarily recommend heaving on the driveshaft like that to get it out of the gearbox though - I did that on a Volvo I once owned and managed to pull the inner CV joint apart, and had a right war trying to get it back together again.
A light pull is usually enough to get them out in my experience. However these had clearly never been out before and were very tight in the gearbox, hence having to use the pry bar.
Excellent video. I have one of those.manual. But the gear leaver is stiff, back and forth. Does anyone know how to fix it. The car is running like a beast otherwise 😂
I use a 300ml squeezy bottle with a Г-shaped nozzle cap, costed me like 4 bucks or something online. This way you can fill it up from above, also you only pour the oil in the bottle, then the cap on and squeeze it in - no need to suck it up through a siringe.
I didn't have the right kind of piping to hand to fill the gearbox up from the top, I'm afraid it was the syringe or nothing. The rear brakes are a menace quite frankly, there will be a video of those being rebuilt soon.
@@Scrubworks love these cars! i own an YRV 1.3 for 6 years now and i only really need to change oil every 8000 km (5000 mi). well, i recently put new, softer brake pads (front) because the old ones made funny noises even though there was still a lot of life in them. the whole spring-summer-autmn i heard absoluitely no noise and i was so happy they are finally smooth and silent. butttt... it is now a freezing winter over here and they suddenly started squeaking back again (??) with the new, SOFTER pads (less than 15 000 km (~9000 miles on them)) so i just gave up and am now waiting for the weather to warm up. it's just a daihatsu and will do whatever it wants.. but at least it's not going to ever leave you stranded and will go strong for decades with only basic maintenance.
If your front brake pads are squeaking, it's probably because they don't have enough lubricant on them. If you get some copper ease or some other lubricant designed for brakes and put a little bit on the ears of the pads where they slide in the caliper, that should stop the noise. Also make sure that area is free of rust and debris. Has always worked for me when I have squeaky disc brakes. Drum brakes are a bit more complicated, much more potential for squeakage.
Hello! I’m driving the same for a few years now and i enjoy it a lot. Do you have some advice for me for how to replace a light bulb on the front lights more easily though? 😢
You shouldn't need to no, as long as everything bolts back together cleanly the alignment should be preserved, and you don't need to alter the track rod ends, you're just removing the driveshafts. If you replace any suspension parts as well though, a steering alignment wouldn't be a bad idea.
I still have one of these. Fantastic car. Just a question? Had clutch replaced 2 yrs ago. Probably only driven 5k miles since. The biting point is quite high. Sometimes there is a judder when drive is taken up. How do i correct that?
Had one of these a few years ago a cracking underrated car and a lot of fun to drive given it’s a 1000cc, can I ask are parts still easily available for these little cars .
You can get bits but you generally need to order them off the internet as nowhere really stocks them anymore, or you can ask car parts suppliers to order them specially.
To be fair, you have to travel steady at under 70mph on the motorway for it to reach that figure. Around town you'll generally be in the low 50s. Still brilliant though.
How did you keep the clutch plate aligned behind the pressure plate when you bolted it back on. Looks like you just put your finger through the hole. I was thinking of using a small length of suitable sized wooden dowel??? Im doing a Daihatsu Hijet 1000 clutch kit. Little different to this but same style thrust bearing. Rear wheel drive so just prop shaft to remove.
I did it by eye. I poked my head up in there, with the pressure plate lightly fastened down, and then just moved the friction disc around until it lined up looking at it dead on with one eye. Then you tighten the pressure plate fully. Using a wooden dowel is a good idea though. Depending on how much slack there is in the engine mounts you may be able to angle your engine down enough so you can get a good eye on the centre of the flywheel to line it up.
Hi! Thanks for making this video. It's very hard to find information about these cars. I got a German manual but it's still great to see someone do things to the car. I wish to say to you that I think you have a good style, and should keep at these videos. With time you would be quite refined. Your humour lends well to the format. If you're talking about things use a pointer to point them out so lesser skilled people will know what you are talking about. I've my car over two years, 63000 km on motorways, city and wild country roads, and all I've done to it is oil, filters, sparks, brakes pads and discs. I want to buy another car just to try it, but I don't want to sell this one either. Such a great strong little bus !!! Also can fit a bike inside without taking the wheel off!!
Thanks for the feedback. Unfortunately I don't own this car anymore, I just found it too flimsy and not that great at speed. I've replaced it with an old Corolla instead.
@@Scrubworks lol. Wrong car for speed for sure! Can't beat a Corolla! Solid cars! Sure do videos on that instead. I guess nothing will go wrong with it is the problem!
@@kingoffifa mind my asking since you have the manual what the torque wrench settings for the rear shock absorbers are? Thanks
Thank you so much I have the same problem with my car same make and the way to change the clutch is the easiest I have seen so far thank you very much !!! the fix costs me 6万円 600 dollars approximately
Useful video, thanks. I wouldn't necessarily recommend heaving on the driveshaft like that to get it out of the gearbox though - I did that on a Volvo I once owned and managed to pull the inner CV joint apart, and had a right war trying to get it back together again.
A light pull is usually enough to get them out in my experience. However these had clearly never been out before and were very tight in the gearbox, hence having to use the pry bar.
Excellent video. I have one of those.manual. But the gear leaver is stiff, back and forth. Does anyone know how to fix it. The car is running like a beast otherwise 😂
Great video mate, well done 👍
I use a 300ml squeezy bottle with a Г-shaped nozzle cap, costed me like 4 bucks or something online. This way you can fill it up from above, also you only pour the oil in the bottle, then the cap on and squeeze it in - no need to suck it up through a siringe.
Also, it's not a Hatsu if its brakes don't squeak lol ;D
I didn't have the right kind of piping to hand to fill the gearbox up from the top, I'm afraid it was the syringe or nothing. The rear brakes are a menace quite frankly, there will be a video of those being rebuilt soon.
@@Scrubworks love these cars! i own an YRV 1.3 for 6 years now and i only really need to change oil every 8000 km (5000 mi). well, i recently put new, softer brake pads (front) because the old ones made funny noises even though there was still a lot of life in them. the whole spring-summer-autmn i heard absoluitely no noise and i was so happy they are finally smooth and silent. butttt... it is now a freezing winter over here and they suddenly started squeaking back again (??) with the new, SOFTER pads (less than 15 000 km (~9000 miles on them)) so i just gave up and am now waiting for the weather to warm up. it's just a daihatsu and will do whatever it wants.. but at least it's not going to ever leave you stranded and will go strong for decades with only basic maintenance.
If your front brake pads are squeaking, it's probably because they don't have enough lubricant on them. If you get some copper ease or some other lubricant designed for brakes and put a little bit on the ears of the pads where they slide in the caliper, that should stop the noise. Also make sure that area is free of rust and debris. Has always worked for me when I have squeaky disc brakes. Drum brakes are a bit more complicated, much more potential for squeakage.
Thanks so much for your info, I can do a lot but this is a bridge to far. Because of your movie. I'll give it a try myself! 👍
Hello!
I’m driving the same for a few years now and i enjoy it a lot. Do you have some advice for me for how to replace a light bulb on the front lights more easily though? 😢
Would be interested to know why the drive shaft nuts shouldn't be reused?
Great video. Thanks
Hi, nice job; Is is necessary to do a steering alignment after the job, since the steering /suspension were somehow stirred? Thanks for your video
You shouldn't need to no, as long as everything bolts back together cleanly the alignment should be preserved, and you don't need to alter the track rod ends, you're just removing the driveshafts. If you replace any suspension parts as well though, a steering alignment wouldn't be a bad idea.
I still have one of these. Fantastic car. Just a question? Had clutch replaced 2 yrs ago. Probably only driven 5k miles since. The biting point is quite high. Sometimes there is a judder when drive is taken up. How do i correct that?
if the clutch is hydraulic you can try flushing the system. there might be some bubbles inside.
Thanks for your Information
How many hours did this take you from start to finish?
Hard to say, everything takes much longer when you film it. I reckon this could be done this in 3-4 hours if everything went smoothly.
Had one of these a few years ago a cracking underrated car and a lot of fun to drive given it’s a 1000cc, can I ask are parts still easily available for these little cars .
You can get bits but you generally need to order them off the internet as nowhere really stocks them anymore, or you can ask car parts suppliers to order them specially.
Its very famous here in Malaysia..same body as Perodua Viva so lot of them had convert it to Daihatsu model bodyparts & engines..
Ebay is the place. Plenty of parts.
please,how oxygene sonde is connected.thankyou.
I don't own this car anymore, sorry.
Still reeling from the "70mpg" claim to take in the rest of the video! :O
To be fair, you have to travel steady at under 70mph on the motorway for it to reach that figure. Around town you'll generally be in the low 50s. Still brilliant though.
How did you keep the clutch plate aligned behind the pressure plate when you bolted it back on. Looks like you just put your finger through the hole. I was thinking of using a small length of suitable sized wooden dowel??? Im doing a Daihatsu Hijet 1000 clutch kit. Little different to this but same style thrust bearing. Rear wheel drive so just prop shaft to remove.
I did it by eye. I poked my head up in there, with the pressure plate lightly fastened down, and then just moved the friction disc around until it lined up looking at it dead on with one eye. Then you tighten the pressure plate fully. Using a wooden dowel is a good idea though. Depending on how much slack there is in the engine mounts you may be able to angle your engine down enough so you can get a good eye on the centre of the flywheel to line it up.
perodua viva in malaysia..
Number kil gear how