Daihatsu Charade - Are the brakes worn out?
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- Our Daihatsu Charade/Mira/Cuore L251 has started suffering from noisy brakes. Is something amiss? I have a look.
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I always used to wear knee pads at work, which was pretty unusual for a call centre, but the things you have to do to keep your job.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Getting down to some work then.
Hub Nut down on his knees praying for good car luck
The things we have to do!!!!
"Lube and Hope" - sounds like my pre-lockdown Saturday nights XD
Worst solicitors in Aberystwyth.
Haha it sums up most guys hopes lol haha .
Top tip, DON'T waste any money on brakes etc, they look fine for many thousands of miles.
Wait a few weeks, see what the Mot brings. No point spending out on brakes if she fails on emissions which I'm afraid is likely 😯
You beat me to it😄
Regularly pumping that amount of blue smoke into the air isn't good on any level - although yes, it will clearly fail on emissions as it absolutely should.
That’s funny you say that. Completely overhauled my brakes on my Peugeot Partner for the MOT. Failed on the emissions! Which brought me to another thought. If you look under the bonnet of Rita the Rover, you’ll see a sticker with 1.00 and an EU Mark on it. That’s your emissions smoke test level for that car.
@@glennpowell3444
I don't drive as obviously still banged up !
Don't think that's the real point of Hubnut. It's primary function is to bring us entertainment, a task it performs to perfection 😯
....just to say...if that emissions sticker wasn’t there and the emissions limit wasn’t listed on the VIN plate, then the MOT inspector would have to go by the Govt set limit of 1.5
...I think you know where I’m going with this one 😉
Australians with Daihatsu: Today on Mega Oz Mods, we're fitting a 16 valve engine with three turbochargers, 29-inch wheels, and a 10,000 watt stereo to our long-term Charade. We'll also be painting everything we don't upholster.
Hub Nut: Right, so apparently we can't get parts in Wales, but I figure we can sand the rust off, and it will get us to Tesco so we can procure Tea.
I guess I have a bit more use for the ability to visit Tesco, or their local analogue.
At the moment, I'd price the brake job up but I wouldn't actually do it yet as I think you're going to be spending a lot of money and time in sorting the engine out - I really can't see it passing an MoT in its current state.
Has the all the crankcase vent system been cleaned and checked yet?
I was thinking the same. I think the mot is only a couple of months away. Like you i also have a feeling the mot tester will not be happy with visible smoke. But it should give Ian some good content material sorting it out! :-)
Would a breakers have a complete Daihatsu engine? One imagines that fitting a used engine and rebuilding the original...or rebuilding a used engine and then fitting it before the MOT would be a fairly straightforward process that would prove economical rather than bandages on a dying powerplant.
@@MrKnowwun He keeps being asked....but no response so far. It's such an obvious one to check isn't it.
Rebuilding many of these Japanese engines is often a waste. The alloy blocks don't take kindly to a rebore. That is why there is a healthy market here in Canada for low mileage engines from Japanese market cars that were scrapped because of the tax laws there. Terribly inefficient and dreadful for the environment, but many perfect cars are scrapped at 5 years old.
Copper grease smeared over all moving non friction parts of brake system. Pins, sliders, pad seats, levers and even the back plates of pads. Thats what I was taught when serving my time by my teacher Big Jim. He died last year, great bloke and great mechanic.
Is it just me or from a distance that Ian's new overalls make him look a firefighter?? Excellent video as always and educational as well.
If I'm completely honest the new threads reminded me of someone storming capitol hill.
I shall buy a horned hat...
This channel is scarily becoming more organised! 😂
Very professional. High visibility inserts, tidy jacket, magnetic parts tray, lubrication and just needed freeing up but I think we will do a complete brake overhaul. May have opened the wrong video, it sounded like Ian though.
Ok, I suppose it will be quite a galore for innuendos when MissHubnut is going to replace the sliding pins 😎
Always lube the sliding parts. They will come apart when you need them. Sometimes the disk and the pads develop a glaze on them that makes noise when applied. A little steel wool on the disk and the pads will take care of that and try to use factory pads when available. My Toyota had that squeal from glaze when I had the brakes done at a shop. I found out they used cheap pads. I did them using factory pads and no more squeal. Helpful tips from across the pond. WD-40 spray is also very helpful against damp and wetness as that is what it's designed for. Use it all the time. Great on wiring and other parts. Gets rid of the water and coats the metal. Good Job on your videos and very happy you are including the family. The kids need to learn about this stuff as well.
That stepped pin looked like it was missing a rubber sleeve.
Often a metal olive
Hi Hubnuts, take it for a pre-MOT check, as others have said emissions look a bit doubtful.
Will do. Probably next month. It doesn't smoke like that all the time thankfully or I wouldn't be driving it!
@@HubNut Is it a diesel ? My mate has a diesel van mostly does 10 / 20 miles a day. For MOT day gets up at 5am, does a trip London to Portsmouth (well the A3 roundabout nearish it ) then back for the MOT, nice warm engine, rings expanded, gunk blown out, MOT pass !!
If it was a diesel quarter of a tank off diesel then add 1 pint off petrol then take it and give it the old Italian tune up...job done..
Progress made and it didn't go all Hubnut for a change
Good job 👍
Like those two old railway wagons in the background. Would make a fantastic shed.
Engine strip down project would make good viewing Hubnut style. Great show.
@9:28: "that smells disgusting, I dunno why I sniffed it?!"
I nearly choked on my soup....
Bit weird sniffing a caliper pin!
That was my second favourite clip from the video. 😂👍
Received my HubNut Beanie this morning ! Thanks muchly , its just about to go out on its first test drive in the wind and rain :)
Well that didn’t last long....wife ‘Zoinked’ it...just about to order another !
Magnetic tray, blimey efficiency creeping in
Handy tip, spray some brake cleaner into the holes that the slider pins go into and get a cotton bud and give it clean out. This will hopefully remove any congealed grease and general crap. If you really want to do a good job then roll some emery paper up and insert this and rub the inside first.
No lube on slidey parts? The people who say that must be quite sore the day after... :P
*BRACE YOURSELF DORETHY!* 😰😂
Ian I always get a mechanic hammer and tap the outer edge of the disc to chip off that flaking metal. When it comes off when the brakes are in use you do get horrible noises. Put goggles on for this adventure. 😉
Ian, it's always worth cleaning out the pin housings too as the old grunge builds up and can hydro lock the pin. I give mine a good spurt of degreaser and then gently run a drill bit in by hand to get the worse off, followed up by a Mustie1 stylee cotton bud in the drill, works wonders.
HubNut phrase of the week “lube and hope”. 👍😂
We started to get a lot of grinding noises from our Mazda and I changed the pads on the offside front, but the old pads had plenty of life in them. Went to the nearside front and they were down to just the very top of the rivets!! I've never had pads that bad ever. Needless to say no more noise and the rears have been done as well. They were ok, but I changed them anyway!
IMO small cars are so much nicer to work on in that everything is light weight. I fully agree about wheel studs. Why don't all cars have them? IIRC all the 60's, 70's and 80's cars I've owned all had them.
I like that Daihatsu. I hope it MOTs easily.
I use Silicon grease for the slider pins, ceramic grease for the other brake grease points. Red rubber grease for reassembly of calipers after refurbishing. Much cheaper than replacing ;-)
4.44. Again, Metal wear indicators are on the disc, hence the noise.
Always a satisfying job. Good work
Winter brake jobs are always fun, and rusty, and wet, and usually only done when the noise starts to become extreme. The pads look like they still have a lot of lfe in them though.
Valve guide seals? Would be my first port of call before srtipping the engine also check the breather valve.
Pretty sure its the valve guide seals. As far as i remember from other videos, the smoke is worse when it has been idling, and goes away when driving at higher rpms.... pretty typical for bad valve guide seals to my knowledge. If it was worn rings og stuck oil rings, it would smoke more and more with more rpm, as the crank throws more and more oil at the cylinderwalls. So my bet is that the oil comes from the top of the engine, and most likely from those umbrella valve guide seals, especially since there is no signs of a blown headgasket. Its usually not really that bad of a job to do, you don't need to remove the head, but you do need some special tools for pressurising the cylinders, and compressing the springs on the valves. Can be tricky though, depending on how the design of the camshaft/lifters.
Atleast there are not too many valves in a 3 cylinder engine ;)
Only something like a leak-down compression test might tell us more. I initially though valve guides, but it seems to need a real diagnosis. I ran an old Mazda with bad valve guides for years, until all the additives and thicker oil eventually blew something else, being the daily beater.
Wow, a simple straight forward job! What a blessed relief for you ✨👍
Great video again. I really do look forward to your content. I find a lot of R8 this and Lambo thaton UA-cam. This is real world tinkering without the crap. Keep it up.
An exhaust shaped like a tobacco pipe would be appropriate.
That is a neat little car, everytime you show it pretty cool ride.
Golden grease is best for brake parts . Ive used it for years and any mechanics i know use it too . Others may vary . But golden grease is the best ive certainly found to keep brake components moving as they should .
I have always preferred copper based brake component lubricants, they tend not to congeal as much. Oh, it's Emery paper or cloth not sandpaper, even the woodworking stuff is called glass paper. Anyone calling either sandpaper in woodwork or metalwork classes at school would get a clip round the head with a ruler, they were stainless steel rulers in the metalwork shop, ouch! A few thou miles left on those pads but don't let them get too low, delamination or breaking away from the backing plate may occur during heavy braking or an emergency stop.
How ironic I check my breaks this morning and the lot is worn out and I come home and you are doing breaks Ian brilliant video my friend
Brakes need regular checks. I used to wait till I heard scraping noises..Not recommended.
“Brakes”, not “breaks” FFS- surely it’s not that difficult
@@biffaozzie2373
Afraid it is for some lol.
@@biffaozzie2373 Give him a brake....
Good video Ian on brake work. It is nice to see that you are working to a new routine and that your new outfit is doing well. I am looking forward to seeing you doing a full brakes overhaul with the assistance of Miss Hubnut.
As soon as you took the wheel off I thought ah there's your problem - no brake disc🤣. As you said they are tiny.
Note. Read in the nasally adenoidal voice of an armchair pedant. “You should not hit a socket ratchet with a hammer as it will damage the ratchet mechanism”. 😂
The Daihatsu is such a cute little car, ideal, I would imagine, for the congested streets of Tokyo!!.
I drove all over Europe in these tiny cars. Great fun.
Hope it's just the valve stem oil seals needing replacing as it's too good to scrap but too expensive to do a full engine refurb.
I've been doing some home schooling too. I've been teaching the kids how to sit on the sofa watching Hubnut videos all day whilst eating slightly more chocolate than is advisable. They're doing quite well with that now, so tomorrow we're doing a beginner's tutorial on how to roll a joint. Lesson plans are available on request.
Another worthwhile job nobbled - I didn’t realise the wheels on the Daihatsu were alloys.
Would it be worth taking on a long drive? A good 2-300 mile motorway bash to burn out any crap? I suppose it wouldn't be seen as "essential travel", but you could argue that you are a key worker as you keep us entertained during these strange times!
The other week Lidl had wire wheels for the angle grinder going for like £4 each, they're quite good for rusty things 👍
Hi Ian ! Lovely. Really. appropriate clothing, appropriate tools ... and discovering something new every other day. And yes: sliding pin calipers are a pain in the butt. But that's what is used nowadays. Cheap. Nice video loved to watch it.
Almost spat my tea out at “don’t know why I sniffed it”. You’re great entertainment.
Any lube is better then none,Graphite is a good anti sieze if you worry about grease going solid
When I did a similar job on my Hyundai brakes the pins with the cut out sections in the end housed rubber sleeves for the pins to slide in. Two came out still on the end of the pin and two were firmly stuck in the calliper. Maybe the same with yours? My pins also had to be hammered out followed by a sanding and lubing. Sold the car shorty after so no idea how long that lasted but it did fix severely sticking callipers.
I always spray a certain name brand water dispersion spray into the bolt tubes...just to clear them out
Usually use copper grease on reassembly as well...I know you shouldn't but never had any issues
@@glennpowell3444 it's a good way of keeping the slides able to move
@@glennpowell3444 I always preferred sliding pots to sliding calipers
@@glennpowell3444 iv got the wind back tool for working on rear brakes.....they are a godsend
Something I found useful when working outside both on motorcycles & in the garden is a twin density foam pad purchased from Machine Mart. It is stiff so will not fold but is surprisingly comfortable. It’s just big enough to lie on keeping clothes clean & dry.
( I should have said. I am referring to the larger pad rather than the kneeler version.)
Love this hubnut being hubnut, to be fair Ian I would actually bin the car off to be fair and get a retro ax or Zx for Ms Hubnut or a little K11 micra, keep but the good work love it
My sister said she had a new car, a Daihatsu. "Bless You" I said.
Interesting to see a car from 2006 with solid front discs.
Get onto Craigslist find a Daihatsu MOT failure with a good engine and just swap them over because there is no way that can will pass an mot with smoke coming out of the back of it.
These were on season 1 of Top Gear and it had rave reviews! They loved the dodgy greeting on the dash.
The smoke does look like a problem that will need to be solved. One possible hack is to create more vacuum in the crankcase (or even just check that the PVC system is working properly). A but of vacuum can help those stupid low friction oil control rings that go into most 21C cars.
A more sensible approach is to boroscope the engine looking for scores in the bores. If it all looks fine then just fit new rings to the pistons. I doubt it's hard to do in that, probably equal to 2 or 3 Rover alternators in time.
I confess I lay out a linen dust sheet folded up to kneel on when working on brakes and wheels...and I have knee pads as well. As long as it's not chucking it down its so much more comfortable on the old knees.
Put the slide pins in the pillar drill and use Emery cloth to clean up the pins
If I had a pillar drill, that would be a top suggestion.
Sorry thought I had seen one in the clutter (whoops)
A piece of plywood to kneel or lie on does wonders when you need to be outdoors working. Even using some of the cardboard you have acquired from mail day can be a nice place to sit while wrenching.
My experience with Mintex Ceratec is that it destroys rubber boots and sleeves on the pins so you are better off not using there IMO. It is designed more as a copper grease replacement.
Id love to live in Wales. Love the roads for my bike and the scenery is just magnificent . Got to be better than the West Midlands LOL
Those brake pins just need a run round on a powered wire brush, well lubed up and banged back in and repeat when necessary.
The cheapest cure for the engine is a better engine from a breakers yard.
You will only take tat one to bits and find everything knackered making it an uneconomical proposition.
Also is that a Catalyser equipped car?
The Cat will be dead from oil contamination, so chance of an MOT pass is very unlikely.
3.13 They are definitely not scraping on the disc. Oh yes they are. Look at the metallic wear indicator, it was on the disc.
I'd expect a proper squeal if that were the case. It isn't a squeal. It sounds like rusty discs. Regardless, I will be putting fresh discs and pads on it.
@@HubNut Its not immediately obvious on those. But if you notice the pads have a metal backing pad, this then has 2 small legs that reach around to the inside of the pad. These are the wear legs and you can see on the video they are touching the discs.
Hi Ian yet again a great video take care of your self and family 😊👍🏻
The nearside disc was blue a sure sign caliper sticking and overheating. You did the right thing freeing off the guide pins though no real need to renew a little pitting isn't going to do any harm on those big fat pins and will help hold the grease, always used heat resistant copper grease. Didn't notice you checking the piston was free though. As far as the engine goes it needs a set of piston rings. Oil control rings worn out and likely gone soft lost there expansion tension when cold and out of shape improves with a hot engine and things expand. Head off, sump off whip out pistons, glaze bust bores, change rings reassemble fit new timing belt etc. A good days work looking forward to viewing and will need to be done for MOT. Cat efficiency may have been compromised with all of that oil passing through the system.
I'd never use copper grease on the sliders. Have ordered some ceramic grease which tends to be better but thanks. Engine work seems likely, but I think I'll put it in for a test early see if anything else is lurking first.
I think you're right, overnight flash rusting and road debris will make a noise for the first few minutes. It all looks OK from here; I'd just lube up the O/S pins and be done with it.
If sliding pin calipers are awful, what about the "swinging" calipers used by British Leyland in the 1970s. They pivoted on one pin at the top of the caliper and had wedge shaped pads which wore down until they were flat and needed replacement.
if not mentioned knock off the heavy scaling around the disc edge to stopping rust crud finding its way onto the pad surface
"Lube aand Hope" - the name for Ian's new ukulele band.
Do the pins again but put 3-in-1 penetrating oil on and gently polish with the fine emery paper... you will see the rust steadily dissolving as you work through the layers. Then put the oil on again and insert in the caliperhole and spin it around etc to clean up the inside, then wipe everything clean and regrease.
Also there's no way I'd change the discs and pads... strip it all down properly, clean up pads and discs, spray all inside the caliper with brake cleaner and scrup with toothbrush, work the clean pistons in and out.
Reassemble and change brake fluid. Easy with an assistant overlapping tasks.
A very satisfying action once lubricated
Ian,now you have all this new clothing you'll need a sign above the units door, HUBNUT MOTORS LTD. 😁😁😁😁
No Hubnut scrap yard 😁
HubNut Wheeled Technology Gone Amiss LTD.
@@stuarthall2180 LOL
@@stuarthall2180 I can see it now: 'Hubnut And Son', just like Steptoe's.
Thank you for the translation.
HI IAN PERHAPS THIS WILL HELP YOU, the vacuum / crankcase ventilation hoses are not properly replaced or interchanged. Calibrated openings have been made in some hoses and if you then interchange the hoses, you suck too hard on the oil filler cap and you suck up oil (so oil consumption). My apologies for the big letters but i had to use google translator kind regards from the netherlands Akko
Looking very professional in your new uniform 🥋
I think it’s definitely going to be a top end engine rebuild of the valve stem seals..... I think it’s timing chain on them little beauties.... Only scary if it has variable valve timing where the cam sprocket (defaiser) ⚙️ has forward and backward movement of the cam shaft.... or free play... that’s when you have to have a timing kit to lock the crank shaft and the cam shaft in position.... that’s fun because you have get it very right because if you don’t can go very very wrong.... VVT brilliant idea but scary as heck when changing a belt or chain....
No, it is a belt. This is the older EJ-VE engine. Definitely work to do I fear.
@@HubNut ahhhh I see well hopefully 🙏 it’s not vvt. It’s single cam yes? Or a little twin cam 3 cylinder? I need to watch back on the video from when you introduced the little gem. I have been recovering from having COVID so I been out of tune with your videos I’m sad to say.
Classic if it isn't broken, don't fix it. Great therapy:)
Lube and Hope...........one of the greatest double acts to come out of the Music Hall era
Sadly they don't sell Daihatsu in Europe anymore, i think they have many interesting models sold in Asia.
In Finland any Daihatsu is rare sight, i think last year they sell Daihatsus in here was 2002.
Daihatsu situation has been little bit on/off in here, there could be few years gap without importer.
She is smoky, she is braking, she is wonderful, she is, a daihatsu dream
My Ibiza has had noisy brakes from day 1 when it was new; just rust but is quite embarrassing as it sounds horrible. The dealer left it standing in their compound for a few weeks before telling me it had arrived so this may be why the brakes rust so much.
You'll never get that car through an emissions test smoking like that!
Ian's been trying to stop smoking for months...
More lube needed, perhaps?
At least there won't be any mosquitos in Wales this year :)
I suggest perhaps investing in an ultrasonic parts cleaner, possibly a good used model.
Pads, pins, a hardware kit and a copious amount of caliper grease are in order for this little car.
For what was paid for the car and the miles that are on the car, its still got to be one of the best road going bargains out there.
That top pin is probably missing a rubber collar
Ian's video descends into unintentional innuendo again lol...
\o/ yay finally someone listened to me about tuning the caliper out! \o/
Never hammer on a ratchet....
I thought it, you wrote it...
I bought a magnetic tray the first time I saw Edd China use one on TV. Who says TV car shows aren't educational ?
Because we were in lockdown last spring, I decided to switch the wheels on my suv myself because it was neither smart nor legal to keep the studded winter tires on through the summer. Anyhow, I came to loathe the person who decided to put wheel bolts instead of wheel nuts. I wonder what the justification is...
I've always hated working on brakes. top tip for you, I have an old bit of foam from a seat covered in duct tape that I use to sit on or knell on if I have to do a job like that.
Cheers. New trousers have knee pads and I also have some kneeling pads.
That engine has obviously got stuffed rings. A secondhand engine transplant would make a great video series, and the car is well worth keeping. Here in NZ it would instantly fails it yearly safety check and be illegal with that much smoke. Can't see how it will pass MOT like that?
It doesn't smoke like that all of the time but we will see whether it passes an MOT. Not much point changing the engine, but new piston rings and valve stem seals may be wise.
I would never bother to put new brakes on any car unless the pads are worn down or I have a problem noticeable when driving it. As for those pins they will be absolutely fine, something else will happen before they are a problem.
As for lubing sliders, there is no correct answer. If you live in the bull-dust of outback Australia you don't lube anything, however, you need to for a car that sits around in the damp UK winters.
What you need is a bench grinder with wire week🤞
Yes, always something to aspire to!
had the same on my V8 Diesel 200 Series recently, came home from a "summer" holiday and pads were squealing, ordered new pads, took the wheels and a the pads were still at 70%...
Ceramic grease on the backs of the pads and/or shims might help. Rubber grease useless for metal to metal. Ceramic FTW. copper grease second best. Pins can often be chucked in a drill. Make a sleeve of abrasive paper. As you said though those are knackered. Likely that you can take them out on full lock without taking the wheel off possibly without even jacking the car up.
Worn disks will flash rust especially near the sea, TDM friction aka brakebook - Pagid 50302 (disk) and T1520 (Pads), the slide pins may be an issue
Hi Ian nice interesting brake video,you could do a home schooling lesson on brake's, you need a nice big thick mat for lying on Now I would hate to get your nice New clothes ditty, keep up with the great work all the best to you and the family.