Watching this now I would of recommended just making an mdf piece for that cutout. 3/4” thick standard mdf(or 1/2”) fit for that exact spot then just put the sub over top of it. Would of been easier than modifying the sub to fit. You probably wouldn’t use the cover over top though. Don’t see the need for the cover anyway. It should fit under the trunk cover fine up 1/2”.
We discussed using the dremel, but decided the hacksaw was more accessible and more likely a tool that most people already have. It was definitely a messy choice though.
I know this video is a bit dated. I thought of doing the same exact thing here, what steered me away from this is the efficiency of the Kicker 6.75" sub (82.6dB @ 1W) which at the same size would not allow much more output, if anything less output which defeats the purpose of this. What I did differently in my Jetta (same system) is I bought and modified a box that fit in place of that sub and used a higher efficiency driver (89dB @1W) with Dual 2 Ohm coils which oddly happened to be a Rockford 10" marine subwoofer. The Sub itself is 200WRms max anyway so I'm only losing 3dB of output at max volume. It's a bigger driver so it plays down to 25Hz too which is nice. These factory Independently driven 2-ohm amps only play well with high sensitivity woofers which are very hard to find at 2 ohms unfortunately, especially dual coil. However with the factory amp (50Wx2) it plays way better than the Beats / Fender sub. I just bought two of these Kicker 6.75" subs for the front doors of my Jetta to see if It sounds right because these things can play up to 500Hz! The front doors are also 50W x2 dual coil 2 ohm channels. Hence why these amps are 12-channel (Beats), 10 Channel (Fender) and you only get 8 speakers and a sub. They are independent from the tweeters and they have their own DSP channel as well. Strange design, but it works. One thing to note is the only difference between the new "Beats" system and the fender system is the tuning and the tweeters/woofers in the back doors are Bi-amped in the fender system but are completely independent in the Beats system. Thats why I believe the Fender one is 10-Channel.
I also wonder what the airspace requirements are compared to that factory sub. It likely needs more air space to make is sound even more better. Also for the price of that sub, with some polyfill, will make it worth the $80 upgrade.
The air space requirements range from 0.18 to 0.75 cubic feet and I'm guessing the fender enclosure might be somewhere around 0.50 cubic feet. I'll definitely try to the polyfill since Jeremy and many others seem to think that will help.
Sorry about missing that. The final sound wasn't much different than what you heard before we screwed it down. The microphone didn't pick it up well and I didn't want people to think it sounded worse. The reality is that the sub sounds very different when you're sitting directly over it versus when you're sitting in the driver's seat. It was an improvement, but like I said it was very subtle.
Excellent DYI! Curious... did you ever try putting some polyfill in there? I'm considering this mod to the VW Beats sub after I replace the cabin speakers. The Beats amp sends 2x50w to the sub and some better clarity is never a bad thing.
What did you do with the stock one lol, I need one and would buy it off you if you still have it. Mine crapped the bed, looking at this though as an option and appreciate the video regardless.
I still have it, but it's never going back in. Connect with me on IG @itspronounced_va_guh or send an email to va.guh.bros@gmail.com and we can work something out.
Definitely something I considered, but adding the spacer meant the cover would also be raised which there might be enough room for. Ultimately I wasn’t prepared to make a spacer, so we decided to just make it work for anyone that doesn’t have those capabilities. Hence also why we used a hacksaw instead of a dremel or cut off wheel. Making a spacer would definitely be a better way to go.
@@Badgeskins So you didn't watch the vid? lol I think it depends. For me, it wasn't worth it but it was a fun project. Anyone who wants any real improvements should go with a custom setup.
@@Vaguh propably that sub is ment to connected with a bit stronger amp.... the OEM radio/amp drives around 15w the speakers and 25w for the sub. Many documentations on the web. Get a Kicker Key 400.1 or somethiing similar and wired up in 4Ohm. thats give you 150w RMS whic is equivalent your speaker. Huge improvement!
Absolutely butchered that poor sub! Why would you not use foam tape around the open edges as it sits above the hole, instead of cutting it to size? You'll still have it air tight if you do a good job. You don't need to put the plastic cap back on top of the sub. Just leave it exposed.
@@taylorpotts9944 polyfil is polyester filling used in pillows and stuffed animals etc. a place like Walmart or michaels would have it. I don’t put it near heat sources or potential sparks.
@@AgentOffice yes, but it also depends on the driver. For some reason each driver even if the speaker size is the same suggest different size for mounts. Yes in most cases 6.5 will be easier to fit there
Watching this now I would of recommended just making an mdf piece for that cutout. 3/4” thick standard mdf(or 1/2”) fit for that exact spot then just put the sub over top of it. Would of been easier than modifying the sub to fit. You probably wouldn’t use the cover over top though. Don’t see the need for the cover anyway. It should fit under the trunk cover fine up 1/2”.
You're definitely right. I tackled this assuming it would fit a lot easier.
Y'all need to buy a Dremel.
We discussed using the dremel, but decided the hacksaw was more accessible and more likely a tool that most people already have. It was definitely a messy choice though.
Hahahahahahaauuahahahahahq
I know this video is a bit dated. I thought of doing the same exact thing here, what steered me away from this is the efficiency of the Kicker 6.75" sub (82.6dB @ 1W) which at the same size would not allow much more output, if anything less output which defeats the purpose of this. What I did differently in my Jetta (same system) is I bought and modified a box that fit in place of that sub and used a higher efficiency driver (89dB @1W) with Dual 2 Ohm coils which oddly happened to be a Rockford 10" marine subwoofer. The Sub itself is 200WRms max anyway so I'm only losing 3dB of output at max volume. It's a bigger driver so it plays down to 25Hz too which is nice. These factory Independently driven 2-ohm amps only play well with high sensitivity woofers which are very hard to find at 2 ohms unfortunately, especially dual coil. However with the factory amp (50Wx2) it plays way better than the Beats / Fender sub. I just bought two of these Kicker 6.75" subs for the front doors of my Jetta to see if It sounds right because these things can play up to 500Hz! The front doors are also 50W x2 dual coil 2 ohm channels. Hence why these amps are 12-channel (Beats), 10 Channel (Fender) and you only get 8 speakers and a sub. They are independent from the tweeters and they have their own DSP channel as well. Strange design, but it works.
One thing to note is the only difference between the new "Beats" system and the fender system is the tuning and the tweeters/woofers in the back doors are Bi-amped in the fender system but are completely independent in the Beats system. Thats why I believe the Fender one is 10-Channel.
I also wonder what the airspace requirements are compared to that factory sub. It likely needs more air space to make is sound even more better.
Also for the price of that sub, with some polyfill, will make it worth the $80 upgrade.
The air space requirements range from 0.18 to 0.75 cubic feet and I'm guessing the fender enclosure might be somewhere around 0.50 cubic feet. I'll definitely try to the polyfill since Jeremy and many others seem to think that will help.
Memphis audio makes a 6.5" sub with selectable 2ohm-4ohm that is a hair smaller and would fit without mods (theoretically)
Good to know. Maybe another one to try if I decide I don’t like this setup any more.
We need a dual voice coil
Wanted to hear the final sealed up sound…
Sorry about missing that. The final sound wasn't much different than what you heard before we screwed it down. The microphone didn't pick it up well and I didn't want people to think it sounded worse. The reality is that the sub sounds very different when you're sitting directly over it versus when you're sitting in the driver's seat. It was an improvement, but like I said it was very subtle.
Excellent DYI! Curious... did you ever try putting some polyfill in there? I'm considering this mod to the VW Beats sub after I replace the cabin speakers. The Beats amp sends 2x50w to the sub and some better clarity is never a bad thing.
I dont see on video if you parallel the 4 wire that the stock sub have. Did you use the 4 wire on the kicker ?
How did the power connections (positive and negative) end up looking like after modification? Was it ring terminals?
Before vs after sound?
What did you do with the stock one lol, I need one and would buy it off you if you still have it. Mine crapped the bed, looking at this though as an option and appreciate the video regardless.
I still have it, but it's never going back in. Connect with me on IG @itspronounced_va_guh or send an email to va.guh.bros@gmail.com and we can work something out.
Would a Dremel tool help with the install or too aggressive?
A dremel would be cleaner for sure. I wanted to try using something that most people might already have. It was a hack-job with the hack saw.
I'll try it in beats GLI
why didn't u just make a spacer for the speaker instead of butchering the speaker 😱
Definitely something I considered, but adding the spacer meant the cover would also be raised which there might be enough room for. Ultimately I wasn’t prepared to make a spacer, so we decided to just make it work for anyone that doesn’t have those capabilities. Hence also why we used a hacksaw instead of a dremel or cut off wheel. Making a spacer would definitely be a better way to go.
So was it worth it?
@@Badgeskins So you didn't watch the vid? lol I think it depends. For me, it wasn't worth it but it was a fun project. Anyone who wants any real improvements should go with a custom setup.
@@Vaguh propably that sub is ment to connected with a bit stronger amp.... the OEM radio/amp drives around 15w the speakers and 25w for the sub. Many documentations on the web. Get a Kicker Key 400.1 or somethiing similar and wired up in 4Ohm. thats give you 150w RMS whic is equivalent your speaker. Huge improvement!
@@tamasnagy3923 thanks for the tip!!
Absolutely butchered that poor sub! Why would you not use foam tape around the open edges as it sits above the hole, instead of cutting it to size? You'll still have it air tight if you do a good job. You don't need to put the plastic cap back on top of the sub. Just leave it exposed.
Would adding polyfill make a difference?
That’s a good idea and something that Jeremy thinks would make an improvement. I’ll sacrifice one of my kids old stuffed animals and report back.
@@Vaguh I’m pretty sure I have some extra- have Jeremy Facebook message if you need it.
Yes can confirm. I had polyfil stock sub in my Mk7 GTI. MUCH More satisfying bass for a $5 mod. Not more sound just better sound.
@@ProWagenMedia I have never used polyfil and I was wondering what brand and how much of polyfil you put in the sub and where you put it in the sub?
@@taylorpotts9944 polyfil is polyester filling used in pillows and stuffed animals etc.
a place like Walmart or michaels would have it. I don’t put it near heat sources or potential sparks.
Did you measure the resistance on the factory sub?
I didn't, but I still have it. Something I'm missing here?
Mine say 2 ohm dual
You guys are funny - why didnt you just pick the right size of driver to begin with instead of doing all of this cutting shredding and fitting?
That is the size
@@AgentOffice that is not the size......
@@vadimsedletsky9251 would a 6.5 be better?
@@AgentOffice yes, but it also depends on the driver. For some reason each driver even if the speaker size is the same suggest different size for mounts. Yes in most cases 6.5 will be easier to fit there
Sub sensitivity is only 82.6 :(
Yep. Open to suggestions for any others that might fit the depth!
Nice
Get a Cerwin Vega spare tire sub.
Doesn't that need power
It sucked, the original was much better
True. Just looking at the woofer you know the quality of the stock driver is better.
To install this bass did you have to install an amplifier additional to the original one?