You should use a SMALLER SUBWOOFER! 5 Reasons WHY!
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- Опубліковано 26 кві 2023
- When you install an aftermarket subwoofer into a car audio system it is imperative to choose the right size. Too large a subwoofer can result in poor bass reproduction, or it may flat out not fit. In this video we discuss considerations for why you may want to choose a smaller subwoofer for your car audio system!
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I like big subs and i cannot lie
You other brothers can't deny
Same
😂
Hehehehehehehehehehehehehehehehe lol XD😭🤣🤣🤣🤣
You like the 12in ;)
The most underrated subwoofer is a 8", I have had everything under the sun, 4-15's, 4-12's, 2-15's, 2-12's, 1-12, some different 10" setups, but now for a beautiful well balanced sound and still good bass, I would take two high quality 8's!
It all depends on the design of the subs and your personal taste. Larger subs in smaller sealed boxes under high power will change your mind. I just heard 4 12s in a small sealed box powered by a 5k amp and I was stunned.
Yes. It's far easier to control the cone at 8" than it is at 12".
(2) Memphis MOJO mini 8"
Nice and punchy for double bass.
@@CarsandCats - It is not. You aren’t taking into consideration the material, the weight, the xmax, servo vs non servo, sealed vs non sealed, box design and other factors. Too many of you are just repeating what you you heard others say.
Ran two 8" and four 6.5" Sundown Audio Subwoofers in my vehicle and was blown away with how much bass extension I was able to get without loosing my entire cargo capacity. Small hatchback vehicles are very useful as long as you are filling the hatch full of subwoofer box. I was able to stuff the 6 subs in each corner, each in their own sealed boxes. Ran them on a single two channel amp... all said an done, still had full access to the cargo area, and got a huge amount of bass when compared to the stock system sound.
I've been a huge fan of 10s for years now. My last setup had two 10" drivers and two 10" passive radiators... sounded amazing for just about everything I listened to, and fit behind the rear seat in my crew cab truck.
what subwoofer did you use? i love subwoofers with passive radiators, running 1 now, but want to run 2 subwoofers
The box is too big for a 12". 8" don't produce enough bass. 10's are perfect.
@@michaelculhane7227
What brand you using and model
Sounds legit!
That setup would fry listening to Dark Side of the Moon....
Sorry, this vid just came up in my timeline. 35ish years ago, I was at a 'car stereo competition' as a spectator. There was a guy with a regular two seat cab pick up truck. In the narrow space between the back wall of the cab and the back of the seats, there was a speaker box. The top couldn't have been more than 6"s wide. On the top were 6-8 tiny little 4" speakers poking out. To this day, I can't for the life of me understand how those little speakers produce sooooo much bass! This truck absolutely thumped!!!
Many years ago i owned a 2000 Volvo C70 hard top. Once i saw how the 12 speaker sound system was (installed from the factory) i stopped buying big subs. The Volvo used a components layout using 8"subs with a tweeter throughout the car totaling 12 speakers. It sounded great. I follow this layout with any car i make for myself. You get big sound and you still have practical storage space in the truck and thought the vehicle.
You make your own cars?
@@HardCold-Alquan correction...modify
Do you have any link with a video showcasing a car being modified with that kind of sound system please? Thanks!
@@JaimeCarlosCamacho i don't know a video of link showing how Volvo laid out their system, but maybe you can Google search the sound system of a factory 2000 C70 coupe.
I used to have a V70 t5 back in the day.
It had 4x12 dual coil subs. 3 off a mono bock in series parallel at 2.66 for lows and one off a different amp for slightly higher tones. I just replaced the door speakers for standard size but decent brand powered off the pioneer head unit, and then added a couple of amped boxed 6x9 on the mdf shelf I made.
It sounded alright, but I effectively took a practical car built to take a wardrobe in the back and by the time I was done you couldn’t fit a box of jonnys in it. Good times, I wish I was a teenager again.
Mark described surface area limitations which was the biggest factor for my application. I have been running (4) 10" subs free air mounted SECURELY in my rear package shelf. I get more surface area than (2) 12s and I still have 90% of my trunk available for storage. I have been running this configuration in the same car for over 20 years!
Yep and your 4 tens still dont play as deep as the 2 twelves.
@@majicogarcia8417 YeP aNd YoUr TwO tWeLvEs StIlL dOnT pLaY aS dEeP aS a SiNgLe FiFtEeN
stfu please? you are most likely not even allowed to drive a car legally...
12's are always my number one, but 10's are great too. I've never really had much good luck with anything bigger, but I've also never had a big air space. Good breakdown Mark!
Me too, however I’ve been noticing JL audio with 13’s now.
@Rodney Noel 12 is your best all around sounding speaker.. it proven... but JL has taken it a step further with there 13.5... drops low like a 15... but the sound quality is amazing...
@@thomasstott527 not for techno , house or any dance music. 12s are very boomy
@dubb 100 percent... if you read the comment I wrote directly under this one it says.. you should choose a sub woofer that better suits the music you listen to....
@@dubb9020 - They are not. It depends on the speaker and the enclosure.
Absolutely agree, I ran 2 (12s) the 1st time my sound was done and it definitely hit hard but left a bit to be desired at lower volume levels. Decided to change things up and swapped to 3 (10s) instead and the difference was absolutely insane. Not only because I was able to separate and place the speakers throughout my truck but the actual functionality and sound was much better.
Needed better equipment... my two 15" Rockford Fosgates sounded crisper than any multi small woofer setup...
yea and 3 12's would've sounded better than 2 12's. You might've went down to 10's, but you added a sub, so it should sound better. I have a Sundown X15 in my Camaro that hits hard. Yet, the 2 Sundown U12's in my 4 Runner hit harder. 2 good subs will almost always be better than 1. Just like 3 will be better than 2. Even if they are smaller subs.
It's because you added 8 inches of Cone area to push the air harder
You didn't have enough amp or it was incorrectly tuned... THERE IS NO SYSTEM with 10s gonna sound better than a properly tuned 15 or 18 ... this fella can't even do math...
I heard 1- 8 inch Sub Sound like 4-12's and was blown away!! Was at a Sound Off Contest.🔈🔊🎼🎵🎶🚘
I've got an JL Audio 10W1V3 in a 17l closed box over years powered on a 420W rms class d amp and i love this little beast so much!
I'm in a 08 extended cab F150 running a single 10" Image Dynamic sub in a down fire truck box on true 400 watts at 2ohm from an old Alpine mono block amplifier. I enjoy the sound from the setup 👍🏻👍🏻
I just did the audio system in my brz. Installed a rectangular, all in 1 under seat sub on the back of the rear seat (brz has very limited space). I wasn't sure how it was going to perform but it actually kicks really nicely. The sound is clean and gives more than enough of a kick for my taste. I was pleasantly surprised at how good a performance that little sub can do
In the mid 90's I worked for a shop and I built my 83 t-bird into a 150 watt class car. I had 8 kicker 8" in a isobaric box. It was a 4 chamber box each .5cuft. it not only hit hard and loud but dropped low. I was running a 25 hcca on the subs and a 100 hcca on my Polk components and hart 6" midbases. Audio control for smoothing and a clarion head unit with the DSP unit. It showed what small subs were able to do. I thought it was the best sounding car I ever owned.
One thing extra to consider is also the total trunk volume, sure you can fit a 15" in the trunk if you have the height, but if there's no way for the air to move to the passenger cabin you are simply moving outside vents or trying to move the rear shelf if that is fully enclosed.
Block the flaps behind bumper corners off with foam, prepare to damage trunk latch tho. U get pressure in the cabin. In a carolla anyway. Windshield flex, caused leaks, metal on car body truck literally ripped, roof and back window flex 1/2" on 2 cheap 12's and a low budget Class D with a in dash epicenter
Edit: wait? One of my 12s is 60 lbs? 15 pound 12" sub? Are we buying garbage from wal mart?
Infinite baffle
I built a system for
My 2010 Chevy Colorado crew cab. Everywhere I looked people were building boxes to sit in the seat or on the floor between the rear seat and front seats or there was a premade box to fit two 10” but the rear seat needed to be raised an inch or 2. I wanted something that fit under the seat without lifting it. I custom built a box and I put two kicker 8” L7T in it and they both have the minimum air space (I have a better box in the works that allows for more air space and uses more of the available room). I have them powered by a 600watt alpine amp and I have to say they can make my ears hurt. I have never used kicker subs before and I have never used 8” subs before and I have to say I’m extremely happy with my decision to use these.
I made a super simple short flat underseat box with 4 8s for my 87 C10 and holy moly is it a monster. I honestly have never seriously driven around with it set to max for anything other than messing around.
I ran (6) 8W6's in several different applications back some years ago. Great performance in 6 cubic feet on 1,250 watts or so.
Always loved a tri plate of tens as close as you can get them together. Great depth and very tight kick drum.
Personally I like the versatility of multi tens.
I'm 48 years old and I have heard and Biltmore systems and I can count and I've came to the same conclusion. Multi tens can't be beat for so many reasons.
I have a single 8" in a closed box (my preference back in the day because I used to think ported designs sound boomy and muddy). It's a mid-size sedan and the sub is in the trunk. With ~300W of amplification it's perfectly capable of volume that's uncomfortable, i. e. more than I need, and digs deep (down to 24 Hz at least) with my DSP settings. It's not perfect and I want to try something else, but it's very good, and for the price - it's awesome!
I like 12's and my setup now is a NVX V2 12" with a Belva 3000 watt amplifier, also a NVX Bass Reconstruction processor. It actually sound alot better than i expected and the box is not ported.
Ive been using dual 10 inch sub setup since 1999, last year i considered switching to dual 12 inch subs but changed my mind, currently dual shallow subs ive had since 2011
Got a good deal recently from a friend on a 8 inch sundown in a custom ported box tuned to 35hz and bought a walmart power acoustik amp. It has the cleanest bass I've ever heard from any sub I've ever had even cranked to high volume 85-90% and has no distortion what so ever. I highly recommend sundown, little on the expensive side but totally worth it.
I have a Rockford fosgate p300 8p 8 inch 350w combo unit that I installed myself and it’s a nice thumper with a decent knob and the sub is held down with a really strong Velcro
I use an 8 inch Alpine Type R in a Skar tube enclosure in my truck. Setup is amazing.
The JL 8w1 i have in my wagon is awesome! Sealed box and power to spec. Mega bass for the family truckster.
Glad to see you still putting out quality content. 🐐
I have ran 10's for years. I listen to a wide range of music, and have never felt left wanton for anything more. From Kanye to Meshuggah they gave me the sound I was after.
In my last install (2014 F-150 SCREW) I ran a pair of JL 10w0-4 in a downfire and ported box. It gave me all that great low end, without washing out the mids and highs. Everything was ran on a 5 channel amp (XD700/5v2). I have since sold that truck, but will be putting the same amp, subs and speakers in my new truck.
I love my two Kicker 10's. They're loud as hell and very responsive as I listen to heavier fast paced metal mostly.
I would like to experiment with every subwoofer size/system to my liking 15s are by far my favorite I’m working on some 8s currently though. I’ve heard plenty of 12 set ups all impressive. I honestly feel like this is all just an enclosure debate for all of these along with cone area.
Ran a few 10" sub setups. 10w7 on jl audio 500/1v2.
2 10w7 on jl audio 1000/1v2.
3 10w6 on a jl audio 1200/1.
All sounded amazing tuned to 33hz.
I have owned hundreds of subwoofers and the best cheap system I had was with 4-10 inch punch subs powered with an Alpine V12. I started with two, then moved to three and four. I compared them on the same amp with a single 12 inch JL W6, two 12in kicker golds and a 15 inch SoundStream 160. The 15 was almost louder but the 4 cheap 10’s dominated. These days I just have an 8inch punch sub in a 35hz ported box.
I’ve got 1 15” kicker comp q in my expedition, it’s perfect.
I'm an audio enthusiast, built some of my own sub boxes for my cars, I also built many stereo speakers, the best set up I ever built is 6X4 inch full range drivers in a a tower config, listeneing to this vid right now on them. Many small driver in a line makes the bass go lower because it mimics the size variable by which I mean it makes a virtually 30 inch woofer sound while being responsive at the same time with no crossover or comb filtering problems.
Currently pushing a DD 8" love how good it sounds and how hard it hits
What are you pushing it with??
I replaced a dual 12 ported premade kicker box with a homemade sealed single 8, cause I'm old now.
I enjoy the better frequency response and only vibrates half the interior panels.
By far, the best sounding tiny sub is the JL Audio 8w3 in their micro sub ported box.
My wife has this on her Outback and it's very impressive. Add the cabin gain and we easily get down to 30Hz wO huge loss.
It sounds amazing and only needs 250W
For me, I've got the JLA 10W7AE + JLA HD750/1 in their sealed box
i have the tiny 8w3 ported enclosure with a dayton woofer and it blows my mind how well it sounds, even in an RX7 convertible. def some magic in that port!
Subwoofers should pretty much all sound the same when played within specs unless there is a defect in them. Put 10 different quality sub brands behind a curtain, all else (size, box, power, etc) being equal, you'd never guess which one was playing. 40hz is 40hz, 30hz is 30hz, so on and so on. So how can subs sound different? The only difference is loudness due to box design, location in vehicle and power used. If a subwoofer is not performing properly, there is something wrong. Either improper box size, improper location or incorrect power, which can include too little or too much, or a defect. Can't leave out crap brands, of course, but even many of those cheapos will function and sound great when played within their true proper specs, not the glorified specs.
I have two 8w3 in a under seat box in my truck and man they hit hard
i’ve got a single shallow 10 in a sealed downturned enclosure. it’s unbelievably tight for metal kicks and it still pushes enough bass to make 808s sound even.
I agree totally. A 10-inch is very versatile. Mine is a forward-firing sealed 10-inch in my bedroom driven by a monoblock running from a 12-V power supply, and I have the exact same setup for my living room. And they sound fine even at low listening volumes.
I remember a buddy of mine had a small 10” and it hit so hard haha and sounded fantastic I think it was a JL but I don’t exactly remember . Was very impressed with it only running like 500 watts too
It was probably a Alpine Type R! Those 10s slam so hard on 500w
JL Audio 10W3s or W6s sound amazing and hit hard too
I had 2 x 15inch subs in a hatchback in the 90s. One in the boot, one on the back seat and the music sounded Deep, Immersive and super clear with 6 mid range speakers running on another amp. Used to set off building alarms in the cbd lol. I hate smaller subs because I hate punch bass as it hurts my ears when song is turned up. I like super low frequencies so I can feel the song.
I run two skar 6.5 inch subs in my truck because the boxes fit behind my rear seat and it sounds great!
Excellent information, and excellent presentation! Thanks!
I’ve had a JL 3-10 setup before and to date is still the best sounding setup I’ve had….
Can you give examples of what a system goals should include in it? Thanks for all your great videos, I've learned so much.
I’m using 2 10in subwoofer’s and they sound really clean in my 2004 Honda pilot. I’m running 2 sdr’s 10s at 1 ohm
That's why i choose MASSIVE summo 8" subs! For my HYUNDAI KONA ,to heavy for bigger zubs and space, im not a pro car audio ,but just a simple bass make me happy❤
I went the super amateur route and bought one of those chinese 8" under-seat subwoofers that come with an installed amp and man i was insanely surprised at how good it sounds.
I currently have it in the passenger footwell but im going to move it to the trunk to get a more balanced experience since it's a tad too boomy on my right ear.
10w7 is my favorite sub ever. Perfectly small and good luck powering 4 of them in a suv. They suck up hundreds of amps. Good vid
My 2021 civic.. has 6 10 inch phoenix gold sx series subs [sealed], 2 phoenix gold 1200.1 sx series amps, and 4 xs power batteries. Civics booty a little sagging 😅 and yes still stock alt..😢 thanks for the uploads always watching
Multiple kicker square 8s have always been my go to.
Building a custom deck for my Ford C-max hybrid. Going with 8" pioneer TS-A2000LDS2 (2) and a 1600w kicker amp. This setup is removable.
If I could afford a w13 that is the way I'd go. Audio control and jl audio in a system will never disappoint. I'm happy with my cheaper crap, 151 on a 3k amp isn't horrible
I've always liked 8s or 10s smaller is also more responsive
That's a myth. It depends on the weight of the cone combined with the magnet strength.
and some people like 6.5 because punchy bass/ dynamic of music. less weight from cone. i could never understand until recently
Well smaller is faster..Less note overhang..The faster a sub starts and stops the better the 'Pace Rhythm and Timing '
Nothing worse than a cheap Huge sized sub.. Slow as a wet week with one note bleeding into the next.. horrible.
I had 12s and 10s my whole life but got a pair of jl 8w3s and man I've never went back. Even bought another set for my truck
Hey Mark! I see you have quite a gap around that 13w7. I can see a nice press fit ring to lock around the clamp ring, and a custom grill over the sub. But that's my mind at work.
I've had 6.5 inch to 15s. My favourite size is 10 since it still goes deep and quick bass response
I recently swapped my old 12" Kicker Comp-C (ported box) for an Eton Force 10" (closed enclosure). Bass instantly got much cleaner. I'm also going to replace my AS Carbon 500.1D amp for a JL Audio JX1000.1D for further upgrades and for having a little extra power so I don't have to turn up the gain to max level.
It got better because an enclosed sub, in my opinion, has better sound quality than ported. And requires less wattage to run it too.
Great video! There are some awesome 6.5" and 8" subwoofers available. Companies have started catering these smaller subs to fit truck under seat enclosures.
I got 6, 8” Xfire subs with 750W RMS each under the backseat of my truck. At 34Hz I hit 143dB, this was before I got it fully breaker in and tuned on the DSP. I believe it will got a few dB higher by now. It can go very very loud and deep, it does travel far!
I have an 8inch , soft spider, low spring constant in a vented enclosure for the car and for house, I got five 12inches car subwoofers and one 18 inches pa system LF driver.
My personal preference is 12 inch subs in a sedan because it’s the sweet spot. 2 12s at 3000 rms combined will slap even in a sealed enclosure. Sealed enclosure take up less trunk space and is a fool proof way to get amazing SQ. As for ported boxes they can get amazing SQ if built properly to match the subwoofer driver specifically and tuned nice and low.
do your subs still hit into the high 20’s with a sealed box?
I usually go with a single 10 (or even a quality 8") for a few reasons... 1) I'm not 18 years old anymore, 2) a single 10 with a good amp sounds good enough for me and 3) I'm not interested in attracting enough attention that results in my windows being smashed in the middle of the night. Also, I was bumping comp 12's in the late 90's in a custom BOX (in a CRX) so it's interesting to me that everyone is now calling them "enclosures ". Lol. It's literally a Box
they were called enclosures 30 years ago too.
the correct term is bass reflex enclosure. It's not just a box, you need to research port tuning and box rise
@@jessevargas3289 im well aware, dont "ackshually" me. im just telling you a truth.
I remember a coworker of mine decades ago had 2 8's in a Ford Ranger. Man, you could of sworn he had at least 2 10"s in there the way those subs hit, I was definitely impressed.
Im partial to the single 12 setup because of my listening preference...but the box size is a factor and 10s do sound more accurate.
This is true. This is also the reason I have an old SUV just for a large audio setup. 1500in² worth of cone area 🤣
Cone area and air space are why I run 3 10s sealed instead of 2 12s ported in the daily. Still leaves me with 2/3 of my trunk space for groceries.
@Car Audio Fabrication!!!!
I want to buy Kicker CompR dual 12” subs. Pre fab off the shelf box.
What would you recommend before I buy it? I drive a 2023 mark 8 golf R. Any tips/suggestions??
I don’t know much about car subs, but I like the sound of bass guitar through an amp with a 10” speaker.
With the Volume it really depends and looking at the TSP is the best way to determine that best. Some 8s use as much volume as some 12s
Weight also depends the 6,5 in my DIY studio monitors is as heavy as the 12inch in my bass guitar amp.
been running a triple 10 box for the last 3 years, and i dont know if i could use something else now since i have really enjoyed how versatile this setup can be with the right drivers and amp. some eq may be needed for the super lows in a sealed box but its not too bad, and you get to keep all the snappy bass of the smaller speakers. dont try to tell me that big large speakers can have snap, i can assure you the 12w7 does not. smaller + more of them = better.
Smaller + more does not always equal better, just more appropriate for your particular needs is all. Do you honestly think high end speaker companies would make larger subwoofers if they couldn't function properly? Yes, that includes being "snappy", whatever that actually means to you. I assume you mean fast and quick. Yes, larger subs are plenty "snappy", but you are welcome to deny it all you want, those of us who know better will continue on just fine without your approval.
I chose 4 10s over 4 12s or 2 15s,not even sure why but glad I did sounds great
The original polk SDAs were rated at 18 hz with multiple 6 inch drivers .
the bass was the fastest and cleanest i've ever heard and this was accomplished without a sub . the speed of the bass was astonishing . you could clearly hear the beginning and ending of each note with no overlap like is sometimes the case with big woofers .
counterpoint to your 10" subwoofer in the 32x13" space, I had similar limitation (14" x 30) , i opted for dual 12" so I could run a ported box with the ports facing forwards. and the enclosures tuned for 25hz. I felt I could get better low frequency response than 3 x 10" running fully enclosed.
Had 3 10's in my civic with 2000 watts 3 sets of mb quart q series 1000 watts and it was a beast
I had one single 8 inch bazooka in the trunk of my 68 firebird and it sounded great. Better than all my friends with dual 12 inch subs in their cars.
And then you woke up?
Really glad I found this video I was in the middle of planning a blowthrough box with really large subs in my truck but ultimately an under the seat fox box with smaller subs was a better choice and get great output
Nice , instructional videos. I have 2023 Santa fe Xrt. This model does not come with a factory subwoofer. I want to add a 8 inch sub in the rear where the stock sub should be. How would i do this?
I still use my old 10" infinity kapa 400rms sub. Hits like a 🚚 still!
Have 2 15s in a sealed box now thinking of doing 4 10s in a ported box next
I did always want to build one of those awesome miniature horn-loaded subs that use like 2 5" drivers or something like that
I used to think the bigger the sub the deeper the bass but boy was I wrong. I had a center console style box built for my extended cab Silverado and didn’t have enough room for 12s or even 10s so we went with 2 8” 1200w subs and the bass hits so low and clean sounding.. it totally switched everything up on how I thought subs worked. It’s really got a lot to do with the subs enclosure on how it sounds.
Of course you need the proper air space for a larger sub to work properly. Your experience has no bearing on the fact larger subs produce deeper bass than smaller subs. Your situation was a vehicle issue, not a sub issue.
And the "Speed" of the cone..Large cones are generally sluggish negatively impacting the Pace Rhythm and Timing of the music..They don't start and stop instantly..
The main reason 18" subs are used in concert stadiums is to throw Bass hundreds of yards to the back..Not so much for the frequencies.
Similarly horns are used for the treble ,not because they sound good but because a superior sounding conventional tweeters sound only travels a few feet.Horns transmit sound much longer distances.
Thank u for this information !
For me there’s nothing like the sound from an infinite baffle set up. It’s light weight, space saving design and pure bass enjoyment is all I need. Who care about the numbers. My #1 choice.
I have 2 6.5 subs in my 4runner 😅 Sounds good and takes up less space 😊
18"s changed my life it would be awful to go back.
Same here. You feel the music even at low volumes.
@@thomasnelson213 I'm kinda new to this stuff, but for my taste I'd say my 12" 400w rms sub sealed hits hard too, even at low volumes... idk if thats just me or my car but I love it
As a beat maker, there’s a reason why most club PA subs are 18”. The resonant peak frequency is around 50Hz. Most kicks are tuned around that frequency +\- 10Hz Larger diameter speakers can peak at lower frequencies. Period. Human hearing doesn’t get much below 20Hz tho. But as far as moving air, sure you can feel it. Smaller subs w/ baffling will have a shorter decay/tighter response though. So if you listen to drum n bass or metal, then yeah, maybe an array of 10”s would be better for you. There’s no right or wrong- just application-like the guy says
The one thing I can say for your example of having more cone area is that 3 10s is only 10in^2 more than 2 12s which is almost nothing. every other point I think you nailed it.
the one thing I can say is that larger subs tend to hit low notes way better so if you want to rattle your car apart bigger is better. if you want clean punchy notes 8-10" subs rock.
I have 6 outa 8 😂
Going by the 15” v 10” comparison graph the 15” will be louder …
@@rfgate u wouldn't need a graph..1 15" sub would or should be louder than a 10" sub..
100 percent correct...
I did rattle my car apart, cracks in the bodywork and glass, started with a bargain amp marked up with a wrong price ?, fitted in my Escort MK6 and blew up the six 280w 6x9 speakers I fitted, replaced all with 510w 6x9 and shattered the cones, found another bargain, 15inch 1500w speakers, I fitted two in my parcel shelf and
replaced all the 510w 6x9, it worked perfectly, you cannot drive at half volume as it makes your eye wobble, makes a great body massager, I did not have a high range sound meter, only maxed out at 101db but walking away from the car it still measured 101db up to 30 meters away and crystal clear, sometimes too much is not good, RIP Escort 1991 RS2000
I have been a bass player for 42 years and have used 18.15,12 and 10 inch cabs. The issue with bass is the distance it takes to mature. If i play on a small stage I will use the 10 inch cabs this because a larger speaker would not be audible close to it, I would need to be 8 feet or more distance from the cab to hear it sufficiently to monitor my sound. I am opting for an 8 inch cab to utilise this principle on stage and perhaps even using two 6.5 inch subs in my car as this principle is the same.. short distance smaller diameter subs.
I used to have a 83’ caprice classic with 2 JL10W6 and a 18W6 powered by 2 MTX 2300’s
Nicknamed it the ghetto cruiser
Hi Mark, I enjoy watching your videos. It sure would be nice to see some fresh videos.
For example, how to set up an amplifier that is oversized for the load. A 500w rms sub and an 800w+ rms amp.
Or tips on determining the crossover points when using 6 1/2” mids, tweeters, and 8” in the front doors along with one 10” or 12” sub in the rear.
Or tips on incorporating a subwoofer enclosure into a custom center console.
You always want a sub that is 50%-100% more wattage than the speakers or subs you are driving. The reason, you can adjust the "Gain" knob on the amplifier's power. Generally, it is good to supply 90%-80% of RMS wattage to speakers so you do not damage them, or get distortion. By using a stronger amp and turning its power back, means the amp will run cooler and not work as hard. This again will help with distortion, but also the longevity of your amp. Heat is the worse thing for amplifiers and their long term performance. If it is possible adding a computer fan to blow air over your amp (if it doesn't already have one) is a great way to help keep the amp cool as well. Simply tie into the amp's remote start wire for the fan's power wire, and make sure to get a 12 volt fan and the fan will turn on when your amp does. Even a little bit of cool air will greatly help an amplifier. Computer fans are the best as they run the quietest. So in your case of a 500w sub and an 800 watt amp. Simply adjust your Gain control knob on the amp to about the 1 - 2 o'clock position and you should be fine. And that is a great set up to power your sub, and not overwork your amp. So you are already on the right track. Peace.
I'm sorry. Correction: You always want an AMPLIFIER (not sub) that is 50%-100% more powerful than your speakers or sub that you are driving.
1 other thing: make sure you use large enough speaker wiring for your sub. And you don't necessarily have to buy a particular size wire, you can double up on smaller gauge wire to make the connections. just make sure the ends of the two wires are connected together before installing on the amp and sub. Best to solder instead of using "crimp" type connections for connecting the ends. In fact, it is always best to solder connections than any other type of connection. It really isn't that hard to do these days, and they even make battery operated soldering irons for convenience.
You always want to use an amplifier with more power than the speakers. Generally twice the amount, or a little less. That way you set the Gain Knob around 50-60%. 500 watt Sub, 1000 or in your case 800W amp. That way the amplifier doesn't work to hard, overheat and burn out early on ya. In your case 500w sub, and a 800 w amp, set the Gain around 2 o'clock, and you should be fine. Perfect actually. (if I already commented on this sorry, just smoked one. lol).
I took and repurposed a jbl 8” home theatre sub I had for like 15 years with a small amp, and it has cleaner bass than the jl audio 12w0’s I had previously 🤷♂️
I've been researching and debating on the best set up for my 05 crew cab Silverado that lets maintain my back seat and doesn't take up any leg room. Not many good pre fab boxes out there and I'm no carpenter so idk if I wanna try to build my own or not... Not sure if multiple 6.5-8 inch woofers would be better than 2 10s or 2 12s as they'll have to be shallow mount, most likely under the seat. Or, I could build a box that sits on the middle seat but then I lose the ability to flip the seat up if I need to. I know I'm gonna replace the factory Bose sub with a 6.5 kicker as it'll fit the stock under console box with a little trimming and sound way cleaner/louder, I'll possibly run an aftermarket amp to keep the sub at full power instead of worrying about the stock amp reducing output as the volume increases but I haven't decided fully on that yet.
Check out JL audios dual 8w3 in their ported.
I put a single 8 w 3 under my friends back seat in his truck and it sounds really good in a small enclosure and in a small space and in a small cabin
I've ran 10's, 12's, 15's and 18's. Sure 18 was when I was doing comps but overall, I liked the 10's the most.
Fab kitchen back at it again
Hey Mark, big fan, love your videos and even thinking about looking at your box designs for the back of my 2021 Subaru Crosstrek. Question though... at 5 minutes and 21 seconds of this video, did you say "the more heavy it is!"? he he he we call that "heavier" sir.. ;)
Sorry, had too, its 4am and I am watching your videos, cut me some slack!
Any recommendations for 2001 sierra crew cab? I was thinking of going with 2 12" shallow woofers under the back seat, but now watching this video maybe a different setup would be better.
Personally I find 8" to 15" all sound good, but there's many factors that come into play, as to what is best for the given use.
Music type and placement
@@stevesnodgrass7434 Pretty much
The main reason I prefer one subwoofer over many is weight.
For my daily driver, I love as lightweight as possible and cramming six 10” subwoofers each with a 30lb magnet is not good compared to just one 2000 watt 18” with a one 30lb magnet. It’s a huge weight difference.
But of coarse that’s just my personal preference for my daily driver. If I had a dedicated SPL vehicle, then I’d wouldn’t care much. Thank goodness for neo subs but DAMN they can be expensive!
Furthermore, I don’t use heavy boxes. I use sonotube which I can lift with one finger but is strong enough to withstand a lot of pressure.
Another awesome video explaining why "Bigger" isn't always better when it comes to subwoofers. Thank you, Mark!😎👊
So I have a question. Are there any advantages or disadvantages to running two subwoofers in the same box within the same chamber or is it always better to put a dividing wall between the 2? I was thinking about what you said about surface area and theoretically if both of those are in the same chamber would two 12-inch subs perform like it's a 24 inch subwoofer seeing that you have more cone surface area in the box? Or does it not make a difference in just leads to distortion or something else that just doesn't sound good?
It will sound better without the separation but try to make the speakers cables same length ,now depends if they are in series or in parallel
Great video! Interested to know the output difference in the 15's vs 2 10's.
I always use the largest sub I can put in the space for spl but for SQ I use two channels and run it stereo! But I have a 13w7 so I have just one so it’s mono on a HD1200/1! I could probably do two but wouldn’t be any room left for nothing and we do use that car to travel on trips.
Running subs in stereo can cause bass cancellation.
Great info, I'm in a dilemma on marine speakers towers: 2 10"s wetsounds vs 4 8" ds18 towers which set up is better and louder and bigger body sound
Wet sound rev10s will put a hurting on the ds18!!!