87-96 Ford Bronco/ OBS Ford F-Series Bucket Seat Cushion is on sale for $135 plus ship. Will not fit 40/20/40 (these are in preorder status) I take Venmo, PayPal, Zelle, Cashapp or mail me a check. Email me at n2kpi@yahoo.com for more instructions. Please remember to include your full name, EMAIL and mailing adddess.
Gentlemen.... Fantastic. Acquired my Grandfathers '95 F-150 5.0 four years ago and have been trying to put together a 1000 piece jigsaw puzzle each time a problem surfaces. This overview really puts it into perspective. Thanks very much for spending the time, it helps. Though, I still haven't figured out how to travel back to 1955.
YOu have no idea how helpful this video is. I for one have been trying to figure out wth that broken white vaccuum HVAC line is in my truck for so long haha.
@@BroncosandPartsGarage I’m looking to replace almost all the hoses and lines in my 96 5.8 do you guys sell or know of a kit with all the rubber lines in it?
Thank you so much for this video! I've had several of these in the past but it's been all carbs for me for a while. Just picked up a 95 bronco and needed to know if I can run an aftermarket temp Guage without the computer getting confused. Thanks to your video I'm off to the parts store. That flux capacitor has been evading me for years! Never would have found it
This came at the perfect time. I have a 97 obs and imma start some Preventive Maintenance and change out some parts and sensors that are older than me!😂
I did too. My 1993 F 150 has been laid up and replaced b/c it used to sputter and stop while I was driving it. The old time shade tree mechanic 9 years or so ago couldn't solve the problem. I had been driving it all the time with no problems at all for years AFTER I had both fuel pumps replaced immediately after I bought the thing used for $1900. There are some two Bakelite cannisters low on the front right on the engine compartment. What rubber hoses remain attached might not be "right". The muffler might need to be unclogged. The Oxygen sensor could be bad as well as any other sensor. But I needed advice. No company routinely will even look inside my engine compartment, let alone possess an electronic diagnostic code reader for my oldie.
Not sure if this video was in response to my comment on another video asking for this exact video or not. But thank you! Very helpful for someone new to cars and broncos in general. I have a 96 I am driving that I now know much more about
Excellent video guys completely necessary for us diy garage guys. Hey if your up to it please make more vids like this one on other components like rear ends and suspension as well. Wed appreciate it!
Interesting Stuff! It was good to also see a video with the 1980 to 1987 models ; mine is a '86 Bronco that I purchased with missing components around the engine.Thanks for sharing!
You guys need to look into the PCV valve #8 cylinder failure issue. You need to reroute the PCV valve line, and plug it into the vacuum tree on the manifold instead of the back of the intake manifold.
Thanks. This is a known failure that has affected many F-Series and Broncos. It's a worthy reliability upgrade to highlight, just like replacement dash braces, Dana 60 swaps, RSK kits, etc....
@@BroncosandPartsGarage Oh man!! that hurts my heart💔LOL. I have a 90. Would love to see an under the hood part detail! Awesome stuff though, love your vids. Keep 'em coming!!
The PCM in my 94 F-150 comes out the front. Jack it up, remove wheel, remove fender chrome and inner wheel well. Note the inner wheel well can be 1/2 removed, pull it out some to get the PCM out. Use Dielectric grease when reinstalling PCM. Just a note - build a roof over the PCM harness to keep water from running down the firewall and into the harness.
We usually pull them without removing liner. Dielectric greas is a good idea. I’ve used anti sieze too. If your cowl seal is not rotted, you shouldn’t need a roof over eec.
Yep, thanks for going over so many parts. Gives me a clue of what's there but I'm a carpenter so when it comes to mechanics I always say, "If it ain't made outta wood, I can't fix it." Rarely wrong about that.
Hope you can do one with a 1996 F-150 4.9L in-line 6 cyl. or one within those years that has the same components. I believe '96 was the last year for the In-line 6's.
“There are times that an engine does not create a good supply of vacuum. Because of this the vehicle manufacturers install reservoirs to store vacuum. The hose from the engine or the reservoir itself will have a check valve that blocks the loss of vacuum back to the engine. Why is this? When accelerating, the amount of vacuum created by the engine drops to a level that will no longer power any emission controls or provide for control of the ventilation system. The reservoir is designed to hold enough vacuum in storage to maintain control under most driving conditions. If the check valve fails the vacuum reservoir will lose vacuum so quickly that there will be none left in reserve. The result? A loss of control of vacuum operated devices.You can make your own as SigEp did but for the Emission stuff..." Source: by miesk5 at FSB
Yeah if you don't have that vacuum reservoir, your heat or A/C will go to default mode instead of wherever you have it set at (defrost, floor, dash vent) every time you accelerate. The vacuum reservoir in my old Chevy developed a hole once, and you could hear the mode doors under the dash flapping around whenever I hit the gas as the heater control lost it's source of vacuum and it defaulted to floor. The more load the engine is under, the less vacuum it creates.
Thanks My A/C fluctuates when under load. That coffee can is missing the lines going to it. That is where I will start. Planning on replacing that can and run new lines.
Thank you for this video! I just bought a ‘95 5.0 from the auction and was trying to make sure everything was complete under the hood. By seeing this video, I know now that I have to take it for a recall. Great video guys 👏🏽
Fixed my HVAC blender door issues a couple of years ago, its nice cruising down the highway and the AC doesn't switch to defrost on its own anymore. I knew every part already under my truck except the TAB and TAD solenoids. I have codes for smog pump issues but never bothered to fix them. Usually when I'm accelerating and there's a wall on the right side of my bronco I can hear that muffler thing from the smog pump blowing out air.
@@BroncosandPartsGarage I imagine a modern cat setup doesn't need the smog pump anymore. I want to redo the exhaust so I will look into bypassing it. Don't care if the CEL stays on the bulb stopped working a long time ago. I actually had a mechanic look at my truck several times because the CEL wouldn't go out. The last time he looked at it he said the light is off now but he wouldn't explain to me what he fixed. Fast forward I realized my CEL light doesn't work anymore. I wonder to this day if he burnt the bulb or it was just a coincidence.
Its been a while since I looked at the code but it is an upstream failure code it runs some diagnostic and the PCM determines that the smog pump solenoids aren't diverting air correctly and it throws a code.
Thanks for this, I've had a '93 f150 and now own my 2nd '97 powerstroke f350. I had a suspicion that the rotted out vacuum lines and actuator under the hood was for the Max AC or blend door. Now I know it's the Max AC. My blend/vent doors and switches all work, but switching from AC to Max AC does nothing- and now I know why!
Very good video, is the recall the dealers will still cover after all the years since recall , just now from your video was an issue mine does not have it- thanks
I just did the 3g alternator swap from the fire prone 2g on my 92 f150. I was pretty surprised with how many melted wires i found in the process. Overall, for once, i was happy my alternator failed. I was able to rewire everything and im just waiting on the 95 amp 3g from rockauto. I was wondering what some of those wires and connectors were for under the hood. Thanks for the video!
7:01 what is the metal tube at the top of the throttle body that has the hose going on top of the radiatior and what does it do?. My truck is missing the tube on the top. My one heater core tube goes to the T fitting that goes somewhere behind my tentioner pulley and the other piece connects to the bottom of the 2nd inlet on the throttle body. Thanks in advance as im learning about my grandpas truck. Really appreciate your video.
Is there a video to show how to replace the piece that the ECT sensor goes plugged into? I think it’s called a heater hose assembly and it sits directly above the thermostat housing
Thank you! 🙏 I notice on the throttle body, it doesn't have one tv cable that runs down to the trans, mine doesn't have as well. Is that okay? What's the purpose of it. I've notice some trucks have it done don't.
Why does this truck have the grey ICM module? I thought all Fords 94 onwards had the black ICM. My 12/95 built F250 5.8 had a grey ICM and throw ignition codes, since i changed to the black one, everything works fine
hi guys that video was very helpful for me I have a 1996 f150 I have been working on it was running well until I changed the positive battery connector now it will shift hard or buck when shifting and it keeps blowing the 10amp fuse on #18 in the cab and I have no speedometer now. can you point me in the right direction to fix this?
On my 90 f250 351w the line that runs down to the catalytic converter it just hangs by my exhaust pipe. Is it supposed to be hooked up to it somewhere? Also I have a plug that runs in the same loom as my icm and spout connector plug. It’s broken just hanging there and I don’t know what it is for. It’s just two wires. One black and one is black with a yellow stripe. Anyone know what it’s for? One more question. On the throttle body the purge solenoid line comes up from charcoal canister into purveyor solenoid then directly into the port on the left side of the throttle body but where does the line that splits off to the top and bottom ports on the right side of the tb go? Once the two lines hook into the tee and then runs into a single line, where should that hook in at? Someone had my whole vacuum system a mess.. it was split before the purge solenoid with one going into the solenoid and the other going to the two ports on the right side. And of course the line out of the solenoid went to the left side of the tb. Does that line just split off after the solenoid with one to the left side of tb and the other to the right side and split again for the two ports? I know that’s a lot but ya help isappreciated. Once I fixed the line from splitting befor the purge solenoid it fired right up. Very hard start before i did that and very rich running. I also have an issue with it starting easier when I pull the line off from the solenoid to the left side of tb then if I let it run for a bit I hook it back up and the truck idles down and is ok
Very use full and informative video. Are you sure this is a 1996? I own a 1995 & 1996 bronco's with 5.8 and this vehicle looks just like my 1995. Key difference between 1995 and 1996 F-150 and bronco: all 1996 switched to ecc-v (OBD-II/diagnostic port under dash), MAF, EGR Pressure Feedback (DPFE) Sensor, and a newer style vacuum canister. Thanks.
Hello, I just bought a 1992 f150 5.0 flareside and I’m having 2 problems. First problem,the low pressure valve is not taking refrigerant, but the clutch of the compressor is working. Second problem, the truck stalls only in reverse. I have to feather the gas pedal to reverse. Not sure if these problems are common? Thanks
I have wondered about the IAT sensor(intake air temp sensor)..Yours is located near the air filter..I have a 94 E350 RV with the 460 and the IAT is located in the intake manifold..So it is going to read hotter than yours at the filter box.. Just wondering if I was to relocate mine if it would effect the running in any way??
@@BroncosandPartsGarage I am going to leave it where it is. The ECM is calibrated to expect hotter temps. If I put it near the the filter box it will see colder air and probable cause the engine to run rich ...in other words..don't mess with how it was engineered to run..
I have the same truck but a 95 that I've owned since 96. Now and then, truck will turn over fine but will not fire. Twenty minutes or so, I'll fire right up. Distributor cap & rotor are fine. Changed the coil too. Could it be ignition/electrical or fuel/delivery?
@@BroncosandPartsGarage There is a thing called the Hooter Valve..It is the IAC valve that will hoot when it is cold until the valve warms up and closes properly..
When i got my 94 and started refinishing a lot of these ckmponents i thought my vaccuum can had rotten from the inside because i heard rattling. I took it apart opened it cleaned the filter and when i dumped what was inside had me laughing. It was dried up corn. I laughed because i would see it as a coffee can but instead it was a can of corn lmao
I just bought a 1995 f150 and the truck take the air out from there, it’s open is it normal? Or need something at the end of that part you mentioned at the minute 10 , I want to fix it
@@BroncosandPartsGarage ok thanks for the quick response, just curious I saw in another video that you sell the replacement HCU’s? Do you still have stock?
I recently swapped my blue dash from my 94 f350 for a grey dash from a 96 F250. Engine lights dont come on and it wont start. Junkyard said it would fit but my question is the wiring different? Do i need the computer out of the 96 now to fit my dash replacement?
So I have a 96 f150 5.0 and my vapor canister purge valve is connected to the vapor canister but not connected to my intake manifold anywhere…I’ve seen the location on other trucks where it connects between the dual intake part but it’s all solid cast aluminum from the factory …maybe I have a different manifold? Help?
Hello fellas, my question is about the Broncos 4 wheel drive system : Are there any after market or anyone selling Oem AUTOMATIC locking hubs assemblies? If so who? I have a 96 EB all original... Thanks
Maybe somebody in the comments can help me with an issue... 93 f150 4.9 xl 4x4 automatic. Im having issues with the truck bucking and hard shifting, and I get a slight smell of gas when it starts bucking. It idles great, no issue there, but sometimes when I come out of park(drive or reverse), it'll cut off. Fires right back up no problem but sort of sputters when taking off. It will level out, but then start bucking again, then stop. The hard shifting comes with every gear change. Here is what I have changed out to help potential folks that may have advice: Oil change Air filter Fuel filter Map sensor New spark plugs Intake manifold temp sensor Ignition control module Ignition coil Fuel and oil treatments Deleted EGR valve to diagnose that possibly being an issue Im considering next: O2 sensor Distributor cap and rotor Throttle body sensor Cat converter(though im told that was fine) Fuel pressure regulator(told that was fine as well) The fuel pump is maybe two years old at most fyi. Does anyone have any other ideas here? Want to make sure Im not overlooking some potential culprits here.
@PoopsyColons I did. So we ended up changing out the entire distributor set up but after nearly 4,000 bucks thrown at the truck it ended up being the part I suspected first: the MAP sensor. I replaced it first and foremost and when that didn't work we went and chased down every possibility under the hood only to come full circle and find out the MAP sensor I put on there was faulty from the get go. So I went from a $60 fix to $4000 lol. But it really is hard to say if that was the only problem associated with it. But the truck is running like a champ now. Also, before people wonder how or why I spent 4k there was lots of other work I had done to the truck in the process of chasing that issue. I went ahead and dropped new motor and transmission mounts, completely reworked the rear brakes, power steering, radiator and a few other things that were on their last legs already. But yeah, MAP sensor, the first suspect. Went bad, and the new one was bad out of the box.
Hey Chris! I have a question. My overdrive light is flashing, my cruise control doesn't work nor does my odometer and speedometer, are all 3 connected?
Start with The fact your cc is blinking means you are getting a signal from your VSS located in your pumpkin. I would recommend swapping out you Psom or entire cluster. There are services on eBay that Can repair your Psom as well- that way you can keep your existing mileage. We sell the clusters too if you cannot find someone to repair it. Also check out your abs module behind your drivers headlight. Small flat. It’s in the video below. If that’s bad it won’t register vehicle speed and u could have same issues. Good luck man. ua-cam.com/video/cVY0Bh0wZj4/v-deo.html
A collector in Ohio purchased a code red. I’ll have to send him a follow up. there’s only two vehicles I’ve ever had sellers remorse- and this was the other one.
Okay I have 2 89 broncos a 351 in one and a 302 in the other I like my broncos I fought both of them for years just all kinds of things over the years about 1 year ago I put a new engine in the one with the 351 I put the Holley sniper fuel injection ignition system and and I put a 4R70 transmission with a stand alone computer on it and now the one with the 302 never moves when I get the money to do all that I’ll drive it again less wiring and no useless stuff anymore
Was wondering if anyone could help me with a problem. My 92 f-150 4.9 inline 6 idles high and then low and then turns off. Once the truck is warm and running the problem goes away. I have changed the idle control valve so that’s not the issue. Was wondering if anyone has ran into this or has a solution? Thanks in advanced.
87-96 Ford Bronco/ OBS Ford F-Series Bucket Seat Cushion is on sale for $135 plus ship. Will not fit 40/20/40 (these are in preorder status)
I take Venmo, PayPal, Zelle, Cashapp or mail me a check.
Email me at n2kpi@yahoo.com for more instructions.
Please remember to include your full name, EMAIL and mailing adddess.
I knew it had a Flux Capacitor…. Great info….
lol. Thx for watching
Great Scott! lol
Dylithium crystals too.
Gentlemen.... Fantastic. Acquired my Grandfathers '95 F-150 5.0 four years ago and have been trying to put together a 1000 piece jigsaw puzzle each time a problem surfaces. This overview really puts it into perspective. Thanks very much for spending the time, it helps. Though, I still haven't figured out how to travel back to 1955.
Glad to help
Wow you guys are awesome, Thank you for taking the time to make this educational video for those of us wanting to understand the unknown.
Thanks for watching!
The spaghetti is real.
Im glad i found this, been wondering what that coffee can thing was.
lol
Great job guys, this vid is definitely worth saving. Looking forward to the next one.
Thank you!!
Thanks guys. Swapping in a 96 302 into my 1952 international so nice to know all the stuff on the wiring harness and the components
Our pleasure!
Great content. Been rebuilding a 95 EB this year and have spent so much time looking up specific parts in forums.
Glad I could help!
You guys are the best! My 1996 XLT 5.8 says thank you!
Thanks for watching. Please share it
Great job Chris & Brad! Excellent reference video!
Thank you. Like subscribe and share it.
My flux capacitor is missing lol. Great vid. Thanks
Lol. Somene watched to the end!!! Yesss!
YOu have no idea how helpful this video is. I for one have been trying to figure out wth that broken white vaccuum HVAC line is in my truck for so long haha.
Glad it helped!!
@@BroncosandPartsGarage I’m looking to replace almost all the hoses and lines in my 96 5.8 do you guys sell or know of a kit with all the rubber lines in it?
Thank you so much for this video! I've had several of these in the past but it's been all carbs for me for a while. Just picked up a 95 bronco and needed to know if I can run an aftermarket temp Guage without the computer getting confused. Thanks to your video I'm off to the parts store.
That flux capacitor has been evading me for years! Never would have found it
Glad it was helpful!
This came at the perfect time. I have a 97 obs and imma start some Preventive Maintenance and change out some parts and sensors that are older than me!😂
Nice!!!
Great explanation on parts and locations.
Thank you!!
Saved this for future use
Thx. Hope it helps
I did too. My 1993 F 150 has been laid up and replaced b/c it used to sputter and stop while I was driving it. The old time shade tree mechanic 9 years or so ago couldn't solve the problem. I had been driving it all the time with no problems at all for years AFTER I had both fuel pumps replaced immediately after I bought the thing used for $1900. There are some two Bakelite cannisters low on the front right on the engine compartment. What rubber hoses remain attached might not be "right". The muffler might need to be unclogged. The Oxygen sensor could be bad as well as any other sensor. But I needed advice. No company routinely will even look inside my engine compartment, let alone possess an electronic diagnostic code reader for my oldie.
Not sure if this video was in response to my comment on another video asking for this exact video or not. But thank you! Very helpful for someone new to cars and broncos in general. I have a 96 I am driving that I now know much more about
Sounds good
Excellent video guys completely necessary for us diy garage guys. Hey if your up to it please make more vids like this one on other components like rear ends and suspension as well. Wed appreciate it!
We have a few. Lift kit video in editing!
Interesting Stuff! It was good to also see a video with the 1980 to 1987 models ; mine is a '86 Bronco that I purchased with missing components around the engine.Thanks for sharing!
Working on 3rd n 4th gens too
@@BroncosandPartsGarage That would be great!Thanks!
@@BroncosandPartsGarage lies.
This is a god send
Glad it helped.
Thank you for the last tips, I always wondered where the flux capacitor was,😅 at least I know where the blinker fluid reservoir is😅
You bet!
You guys need to look into the PCV valve #8 cylinder failure issue. You need to reroute the PCV valve line, and plug it into the vacuum tree on the manifold instead of the back of the intake manifold.
Great suggestion. We make “certain modifications” on our personal trucks. This vehicle is For Sale so it was left stock
Yup I should have r next turned that. Thx
Thanks. This is a known failure that has affected many F-Series and Broncos. It's a worthy reliability upgrade to highlight, just like replacement dash braces, Dana 60 swaps, RSK kits, etc....
Can you do a video of this problem and fix?
This is a great video, very helpful! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Nice 👍. But at 9:00 my line to that valve is broken and everything is still working. ?
Although my F-150 quit starting.😮
(oh I'm sure it's not that hose causing the problem I've been driving for two decades without it connecting)
Odd. I hope you got it started?!
Great video! Super useful for people rebuilding their Bronco! Can you do another one showing the variances for bricknose Broncos?
In the works- but should be known I hate bricks. Lol. I part out everyone I can find. 🥴😂
@@BroncosandPartsGarage hey, some of us like them!
@@BroncosandPartsGarage Oh man!! that hurts my heart💔LOL. I have a 90. Would love to see an under the hood part detail! Awesome stuff though, love your vids. Keep 'em coming!!
@@BroncosandPartsGarage You monster
@@BroncosandPartsGarage Is it because of the speed density or aod?
The PCM in my 94 F-150 comes out the front. Jack it up, remove wheel, remove fender chrome and inner wheel well. Note the inner wheel well can be 1/2 removed, pull it out some to get the PCM out. Use Dielectric grease when reinstalling PCM. Just a note - build a roof over the PCM harness to keep water from running down the firewall and into the harness.
We usually pull them without removing liner. Dielectric greas is a good idea. I’ve used anti sieze too. If your cowl seal is not rotted, you shouldn’t need a roof over eec.
Thanks Guys!
Our pleasure!
Yep, thanks for going over so many parts. Gives me a clue of what's there but I'm a carpenter so when it comes to mechanics I always say, "If it ain't made outta wood, I can't fix it." Rarely wrong about that.
Glad to help
At 9:00 and 9:10 the answer is that white vacuum line that’s broken connects back to the actuator.
Yup
Hope you can do one with a 1996 F-150 4.9L in-line 6 cyl. or one within those years that has the same components. I believe '96 was the last year for the In-line 6's.
If I get my hands on one!
Mine is a 95 inline 6.
Jiffy lube just replaced my Kanooter valve. Didn't even realize it was going bad. Only cost $600 too. What a deal!
LOL! Did they upsell you some wipers too? lol
I was wondering what the point was to the vacuum reservoir. How exactly does it tie into the hvac vacuum? Are there any check valves involved?
“There are times that an engine does not create a good supply of vacuum. Because of this the vehicle manufacturers install reservoirs to store vacuum. The hose from the engine or the reservoir itself will have a check valve that blocks the loss of vacuum back to the engine. Why is this? When accelerating, the amount of vacuum created by the engine drops to a level that will no longer power any emission controls or provide for control of the ventilation system. The reservoir is designed to hold enough vacuum in storage to maintain control under most driving conditions. If the check valve fails the vacuum reservoir will lose vacuum so quickly that there will be none left in reserve. The result? A loss of control of vacuum operated devices.You can make your own as SigEp did but for the Emission stuff..."
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
Yeah if you don't have that vacuum reservoir, your heat or A/C will go to default mode instead of wherever you have it set at (defrost, floor, dash vent) every time you accelerate.
The vacuum reservoir in my old Chevy developed a hole once, and you could hear the mode doors under the dash flapping around whenever I hit the gas as the heater control lost it's source of vacuum and it defaulted to floor. The more load the engine is under, the less vacuum it creates.
Thanks My A/C fluctuates when under load. That coffee can is missing the lines going to it. That is where I will start. Planning on replacing that can and run new lines.
It’s a good start! Upgrade to a 1996 plastic can
Thank you for this video! I just bought a ‘95 5.0 from the auction and was trying to make sure everything was complete under the hood. By seeing this video, I know now that I have to take it for a recall. Great video guys 👏🏽
That’s awesome. If you need any parts let me know.
@@BroncosandPartsGarage Much appreciated. 👍🏽 I definitely will.
Fixed my HVAC blender door issues a couple of years ago, its nice cruising down the highway and the AC doesn't switch to defrost on its own anymore. I knew every part already under my truck except the TAB and TAD solenoids. I have codes for smog pump issues but never bothered to fix them. Usually when I'm accelerating and there's a wall on the right side of my bronco I can hear that muffler thing from the smog pump blowing out air.
You could always pull the smog pump and replace with a bypass pulley found on 1996 trucks with a 351w
@@BroncosandPartsGarage I imagine a modern cat setup doesn't need the smog pump anymore. I want to redo the exhaust so I will look into bypassing it. Don't care if the CEL stays on the bulb stopped working a long time ago. I actually had a mechanic look at my truck several times because the CEL wouldn't go out. The last time he looked at it he said the light is off now but he wouldn't explain to me what he fixed. Fast forward I realized my CEL light doesn't work anymore. I wonder to this day if he burnt the bulb or it was just a coincidence.
Smog pump should not throw a code. Because the engine doesn’t know if it’s spinning. But removing the EGR will give you some codes
Its been a while since I looked at the code but it is an upstream failure code it runs some diagnostic and the PCM determines that the smog pump solenoids aren't diverting air correctly and it throws a code.
Thanks for this, I've had a '93 f150 and now own my 2nd '97 powerstroke f350. I had a suspicion that the rotted out vacuum lines and actuator under the hood was for the Max AC or blend door. Now I know it's the Max AC. My blend/vent doors and switches all work, but switching from AC to Max AC does nothing- and now I know why!
Glad it helped
Great video. Thank you
Thank you. Had great help!! @ridingshotgunadventures
I’m curious if there’s an abs pump that is interchangeable with a 95 bronco? Thanks love the channel.
We stock used units and modules
Very good video, is the recall the dealers will still cover after all the years since recall , just now from your video was an issue mine does not have it- thanks
Thanks
Can you do a 351w in a bullnose please
Yes
I just came here to say the same! Hope to see this soon
I just did the 3g alternator swap from the fire prone 2g on my 92 f150. I was pretty surprised with how many melted wires i found in the process. Overall, for once, i was happy my alternator failed. I was able to rewire everything and im just waiting on the 95 amp 3g from rockauto. I was wondering what some of those wires and connectors were for under the hood. Thanks for the video!
No problem. Share it! I had great help making it
GREAT stuff!!!
Glad you enjoyed it
7:01 what is the metal tube at the top of the throttle body that has the hose going on top of the radiatior and what does it do?. My truck is missing the tube on the top. My one heater core tube goes to the T fitting that goes somewhere behind my tentioner pulley and the other piece connects to the bottom of the 2nd inlet on the throttle body. Thanks in advance as im learning about my grandpas truck. Really appreciate your video.
That pre heats the throttle body. Sound like the other tubes are going to you water pump. Do you have heat?
Yes I have heat when turned on it just smells like dust so I'm replacing the heater core
Is there a video to show how to replace the piece that the ECT sensor goes plugged into? I think it’s called a heater hose assembly and it sits directly above the thermostat housing
Not yet
Very informative video👍
Thank you. Please like subscribe and share
Show us how to fix the ac vacuum line mine always stops blowing when I accelerate. And my other truck blows on the floor when I accelerate
Will do
I noticed the "open tube" coming off of the oil filler neck on the driver's side valve cover. Is that supposed to be open to the atmosphere like that?
The truck is gone, but I believe that was supposed to go back to your airbox
Thank you! 🙏
I notice on the throttle body, it doesn't have one tv cable that runs down to the trans, mine doesn't have as well. Is that okay? What's the purpose of it. I've notice some trucks have it done don't.
These E4OD transmissions are electronically controlled. So no cable needed. The earlier C6 needed the cable.
I have a 93 and was wondering where the obd1 plug is?
Under hood beside cruise control servo to right of brake booster of looking at the engine fro the front
Just picked up another 96 SAS Bronco. You have a FB page?
Broncos And Parts Garage FB group
Why does this truck have the grey ICM module?
I thought all Fords 94 onwards had the black ICM.
My 12/95 built F250 5.8 had a grey ICM and throw ignition codes, since i changed to the black one, everything works fine
Not sure. But it ran fine
hi guys that video was very helpful for me
I have a 1996 f150 I have been working on it was running well until I changed the positive battery connector
now it will shift hard or buck when shifting and it keeps blowing the 10amp fuse on #18 in the cab and I have no speedometer now.
can you point me in the right direction to fix this?
Is your overdrive stalk blinking?
Yes, on blinking
I also noticed my speedometer is not working it keeps blowing fuse #18 inside the truck.
So what viscosity blinker fluid do you recommend for my 96 XLT and on my flux capacitor is that a left hand or right hand thread or is it metric 😊
40w80 fluid 🤣🤣🤣
Growing up my father said I was a smartass no one likes a smartass he said except another smartass
On my 90 f250 351w the line that runs down to the catalytic converter it just hangs by my exhaust pipe. Is it supposed to be hooked up to it somewhere? Also I have a plug that runs in the same loom as my icm and spout connector plug. It’s broken just hanging there and I don’t know what it is for. It’s just two wires. One black and one is black with a yellow stripe. Anyone know what it’s for? One more question. On the throttle body the purge solenoid line comes up from charcoal canister into purveyor solenoid then directly into the port on the left side of the throttle body but where does the line that splits off to the top and bottom ports on the right side of the tb go? Once the two lines hook into the tee and then runs into a single line, where should that hook in at? Someone had my whole vacuum system a mess.. it was split before the purge solenoid with one going into the solenoid and the other going to the two ports on the right side. And of course the line out of the solenoid went to the left side of the tb. Does that line just split off after the solenoid with one to the left side of tb and the other to the right side and split again for the two ports? I know that’s a lot but ya help isappreciated. Once I fixed the line from splitting befor the purge solenoid it fired right up. Very hard start before i did that and very rich running. I also have an issue with it starting easier when I pull the line off from the solenoid to the left side of tb then if I let it run for a bit I hook it back up and the truck idles down and is ok
I need pics to help. My contact info is in video description b
Still looking for the kanooter valve!! Did this model have muffler bearings?
Bearing were replaced. Blinker fluid was topped off!!
I just bought a 94 OBS Bronco and my wife thinks I've been listening to the guy from Parks and Recreation for the last week
Lol. That’s funny.
Thanks!
Would like one for underneath 🇺🇸
Best,
Im Michigan, where we are at, I’d just point and say “rust”. Lol. We will make one soon
Very little rust on my 93f150..
🇺🇸
Is the air in lat for the air pump supposed to blow air out?
It’s more of a muffler
Wish you guys could do this for a 1996 250 with a 460
We have more planned. Lots are similar.
Very use full and informative video. Are you sure this is a 1996? I own a 1995 & 1996 bronco's with 5.8 and this vehicle looks just like my 1995. Key difference between 1995 and 1996 F-150 and bronco: all 1996 switched to ecc-v (OBD-II/diagnostic port under dash), MAF, EGR Pressure Feedback (DPFE) Sensor, and a newer style vacuum canister. Thanks.
This was a California Truck
@@BroncosandPartsGarage That probably explains it all being a California truck.
Can you attach/provide link for your heater core video you mentioned at 07:38
How To Replace Heater Core | Ford Bronco OBS FORD F150 F250 F350 | In 9 Minutes | Most Vehicles!!
ua-cam.com/video/RyDjXzs16A4/v-deo.html
Great now need something on the ecm
Such as??
Hello, I just bought a 1992 f150 5.0 flareside and I’m having 2 problems. First problem,the low pressure valve is not taking refrigerant, but the clutch of the compressor is working. Second problem, the truck stalls only in reverse. I have to feather the gas pedal to reverse. Not sure if these problems are common? Thanks
That’s very strange. Let me ask around
real funny guys at the end there
Lol
Oil pressure sending unit?
It’s under the hood too! :)
Yes they missed that part. I just replaced mine the other day.
I have wondered about the IAT sensor(intake air temp sensor)..Yours is located near the air filter..I have a 94 E350 RV with the 460 and the IAT is located in the intake manifold..So it is going to read hotter than yours at the filter box..
Just wondering if I was to relocate mine if it would effect the running in any way??
I’m not sure. Try posting in the Broncos And Parts Garagw FB group.
@@BroncosandPartsGarage I am going to leave it where it is. The ECM is calibrated to expect hotter temps. If I put it near the the filter box it will see colder air and probable cause the engine to run rich ...in other words..don't mess with how it was engineered to run..
Will the dealer still warrant a recall from that long ago? Got a 93
Yes. Or buy the part from auto parts store for $35.
I have the same truck but a 95 that I've owned since 96. Now and then, truck will turn over fine but will not fire. Twenty minutes or so, I'll fire right up. Distributor cap & rotor are fine. Changed the coil too. Could it be ignition/electrical or fuel/delivery?
Maybe a bad fuel pump. Next time key it on and off a few times before trying to start
Great video guys, thanks 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Couldn’t have done it without
@ridingshotgunadventures
So what exactly is the part at 4:47 on the coil
A condenser to eliminate noise in your radio. Older cars would whine thru speakers
@@BroncosandPartsGarage I have a subwoofer for just a little bass and it had motor noise that condenser might be bad
Do you happen to know where the cooter plug is? I cant find it on my truck
Next to the blinker fluid tank
@@BroncosandPartsGarage There is a thing called the Hooter Valve..It is the IAC valve that will hoot when it is cold until the valve warms up and closes properly..
can you identify all vacuum lines?
Yes.
When i got my 94 and started refinishing a lot of these ckmponents i thought my vaccuum can had rotten from the inside because i heard rattling. I took it apart opened it cleaned the filter and when i dumped what was inside had me laughing. It was dried up corn. I laughed because i would see it as a coffee can but instead it was a can of corn lmao
Critters can do some damage
I am looking a guage cluster with tachometer for my 96 F-150 XLT. Do you have one for sale? My truc built in February of 1996.
Yes. Email me. 96-97 clusters are unique. Email in video description. Thx
How can I identify which engine I have on mine. I have a 1996 ford F-150 as well. It’s a rear wheel drive. I how many cylinders it is, thanks
Can only be one of two engines. Written on intake. 😉
Thanks I didn’t know where my flux capacitor was 😂😂😂🎉
I couldnt resist!
I wanna paint the shell on my 96. It’s looking nasty n getting sun damage. Do you have any tips?
The texture of the top hides alot. If you don’t wanna spend big buck- prep it well and use a rattle can.
@@BroncosandPartsGarage yeah I plan on using a rattle can. Thanx!
Hey guys whats that part at 10 minutes yall talk about called new to the "bay" area just trying to fix my truck?
That’s the emissions Intake or “muffler” for the engine. Designed to eliminate the pumping sound.
I just bought a 1995 f150 and the truck take the air out from there, it’s open is it normal? Or need something at the end of that part you mentioned at the minute 10 , I want to fix it
Do you have any experience with the HCU’s in these?
Specifically any issues.. I’ve been throwing a code 63 since I’ve owned the truck and even swapped HCU’s.
Not familiar with that code
@@BroncosandPartsGarage ok thanks for the quick response, just curious I saw in another video that you sell the replacement HCU’s? Do you still have stock?
I have that same problem where my white vacuum line disintegrated. How do you fix that?
I haven’t fixed one. All I’ll ask around
There is a component on the very rear of the engine, with a large rubber hose going to it. Mine is broke. What is it?
I’ll take a look
how much for the kanooter valve? mine is not working
Trade for some blinker fluid
I recently swapped my blue dash from my 94 f350 for a grey dash from a 96 F250. Engine lights dont come on and it wont start. Junkyard said it would fit but my question is the wiring different? Do i need the computer out of the 96 now to fit my dash replacement?
What engine and trans is/was in each truck? Size, gasser? Diesel?
460 with E40d in each
@@BroncosandPartsGarage
So I have a 96 f150 5.0 and my vapor canister purge valve is connected to the vapor canister but not connected to my intake manifold anywhere…I’ve seen the location on other trucks where it connects between the dual intake part but it’s all solid cast aluminum from the factory …maybe I have a different manifold? Help?
I’ll try and look at a 96 in a few days.
@@BroncosandPartsGarage thank you
Is this still for sale? Very interested.
Yes. Lol
I just got a 92 4x4 f250 for free 5.8l but I can't find the manual trans dipstick nor the hole in the trans for one ? What gives !
lol.
Hello fellas, my question is about the Broncos 4 wheel drive system : Are there any after market or anyone selling Oem AUTOMATIC locking hubs assemblies? If so who? I have a 96 EB all original... Thanks
I’ve never found a kit. They make rebuild kits. I’m a fan of Mile Maker manual hubs- very low failure rate!!
Maybe somebody in the comments can help me with an issue...
93 f150 4.9 xl 4x4 automatic.
Im having issues with the truck bucking and hard shifting, and I get a slight smell of gas when it starts bucking. It idles great, no issue there, but sometimes when I come out of park(drive or reverse), it'll cut off. Fires right back up no problem but sort of sputters when taking off. It will level out, but then start bucking again, then stop. The hard shifting comes with every gear change.
Here is what I have changed out to help potential folks that may have advice:
Oil change
Air filter
Fuel filter
Map sensor
New spark plugs
Intake manifold temp sensor
Ignition control module
Ignition coil
Fuel and oil treatments
Deleted EGR valve to diagnose that possibly being an issue
Im considering next:
O2 sensor
Distributor cap and rotor
Throttle body sensor
Cat converter(though im told that was fine)
Fuel pressure regulator(told that was fine as well)
The fuel pump is maybe two years old at most fyi.
Does anyone have any other ideas here? Want to make sure Im not overlooking some potential culprits here.
Post this on the FB group Broncos And Parts Garage. I’ll find you there
@BroncosandPartsGarage Im not on FB. Ive dug through countless forums trying to diagnose this issue lol
Same here… did you find what was causing it?
@PoopsyColons I did. So we ended up changing out the entire distributor set up but after nearly 4,000 bucks thrown at the truck it ended up being the part I suspected first: the MAP sensor. I replaced it first and foremost and when that didn't work we went and chased down every possibility under the hood only to come full circle and find out the MAP sensor I put on there was faulty from the get go. So I went from a $60 fix to $4000 lol. But it really is hard to say if that was the only problem associated with it. But the truck is running like a champ now.
Also, before people wonder how or why I spent 4k there was lots of other work I had done to the truck in the process of chasing that issue. I went ahead and dropped new motor and transmission mounts, completely reworked the rear brakes, power steering, radiator and a few other things that were on their last legs already.
But yeah, MAP sensor, the first suspect. Went bad, and the new one was bad out of the box.
@@savage_the_wild bittersweet but glad it worked out. Enjoy your ride!
There’s fuel leaking from close to the battery what part is thy
No fuel lines go near the battery
Might be coolant
Hopefully buying my 92 bronco today🥲
Good stuff!!
Hey Chris! I have a question. My overdrive light is flashing, my cruise control doesn't work nor does my odometer and speedometer, are all 3 connected?
Start with The fact your cc is blinking means you are getting a signal from your VSS located in your pumpkin. I would recommend swapping out you Psom or entire cluster. There are services on eBay that Can repair your Psom as well- that way you can keep your existing mileage. We sell the clusters too if you cannot find someone to repair it. Also check out your abs module behind your drivers headlight. Small flat. It’s in the video below. If that’s bad it won’t register vehicle speed and u could have same issues. Good luck man.
ua-cam.com/video/cVY0Bh0wZj4/v-deo.html
@Broncos and Parts Garage thanks man you're one of the reasons I pulled the trigger on getting an obs.
I can spot a Turbo Buick a thousand miles away. Grand National perhaps? show me more !! haha
87. Build like a beast. Sold last month. :(
Please do 87-91
Will do. Most is the same though.
@@BroncosandPartsGarage ok thank you
Sure hope Code Red is sill living a good life. 😁
A collector in Ohio purchased a code red. I’ll have to send him a follow up. there’s only two vehicles I’ve ever had sellers remorse-
and this was the other one.
@@BroncosandPartsGarage same with me. Getting caught at a weak moment can be to the buyers advantage.
I have a 95, what engine is this?
94 or 95. Cannot remember.
I found out the difference. Air intake and maap. Both 5.0. Manual and automatic.
Okay I have 2 89 broncos a 351 in one and a 302 in the other I like my broncos I fought both of them for years just all kinds of things over the years about 1 year ago I put a new engine in the one with the 351 I put the Holley sniper fuel injection ignition system and and I put a 4R70 transmission with a stand alone computer on it and now the one with the 302 never moves when I get the money to do all that I’ll drive it again less wiring and no useless stuff anymore
That sounds awesome. Very similar to our Aeronose regarding Underhood. I have a few videos on 4th gens. Maybe check them out
❤
Thx
My 94 and 95 F150 5.0 has Mass Air,
Correct. 351W for MAF late 95 and 96
Was wondering if anyone could help me with a problem. My 92 f-150 4.9 inline 6 idles high and then low and then turns off. Once the truck is warm and running the problem goes away. I have changed the idle control valve so that’s not the issue. Was wondering if anyone has ran into this or has a solution? Thanks in advanced.
sorry, no experience with the 300. try posting in the Broncos And Parts Garage FB group. lots of helpful people.
Where is the horn
riiiiiiiiiiiiiight there!
if your serious, its below the passenger headlight attached to the core support!