Watched this video twice and referenced it a few times but I was able to get everything done in about an hour and a half. Extremely helpful video thank you!
Dont be afraid to whack the love out of that old rotor! Haha. Thanks for the video. I've probably done brake jobs a half dozen times, but not in the past 15 years. I appreciate the chance to get confidence boosted and my memory refreshed before I dive in. The rotors were already warped so i let the pads go to metal. 85k miles. Being a hyundai, i think this mught be the last brake job this thing sees.
@KBzPTGT you say that like any respectable portion of Hyundai/Kia products are bound to approach 300k. It just isn't true, and the evidence is everywhere. They're fine cars for the price and I do believe they have been improving, but let's not be silly.
Thanks for this instructional video. When I've worked on breaks in the past it would take 90 minutes one side... and 15 on the other. Always something I'd forget about. Now I'll have everything I need at the ready and I won't forget any steps. I'm using akebono breaks for the 1st time as I've heard they are very good & come with all new plates & retaining springs. Thanks Again.
I'm doing this tomorrow. I got a 4 wheel brake kit from RockAuto for a decent price. I sprung for coated rotors and ceramic pads for the first time ever. I'm installing on an '08 Lexus RX 350. My car has center point jack spots. It will be the first time I ever had my whole car up on jack stands. It's the easiest way to change the fluid and all components though. A tip for the phillips screws in the rotors - a quick spray of panther piss aka PB Blaster then use the cheap impact screw driver from Harbor Freight. Breaks them loose quick, fast and in a hurry. I'm here because of the Bear.
Very helpful Video. I like how you did the complete demonstration. Your a very good teacher & demonstrator. You did an excellent job explaining everything slowly and clearly along with showing the video. Good job. Than you for taking the time and showing us. Your Thank you so much, Greatly appreciated
Are you jacking up and lowering one side at a time or do you habe 2 Jack's to raise and drop the car on stands? I've done one side at a time before and the car would slide on the 1 jack as the other side was raising and ended up falling. Not sure if you have a trick if that's the case
Ok. I watched the whole thing now and holy cow, brother. I'm pretty impressed with this video. Great editing and that lavaliere mic is pretty good sounding! I normally have at least something critical to say, but this is really good in my opinion (even the background music which I am normally not a fan of). The only thing I really had to add is the impact screw driver and when you're doing the bedding stops, try not to stay stopped for long if at all. You don't want the hot pads to linger and heat one place in the rotor (unevenly) as that may case a warp.
I need help with what style/size these rotors are. I tried searching on Canadian Tire and apparently it’s not showing up even though I have mentioned what make of my vehicle and year is.
Thanks for this! Bought some premium pads and rotors from Napa instead of paying the stealership... I've done brakes on my last car, an 09 Toyota Matrix, but always helpful to get a breakdown before tearing apart the assembly on a car for the first time. Easy peazy and back to quiet driving and stopping. I'll have to get a run through on rear drums when the time comes for new shoes as I've never tackled drum brakes before.
Hi Ed, I messed up when changing the front brake pads. After squeezing each piston, I pumped the brakes while the cap was off of the brake fluid reservoir. How serious was this mistake? Should I bring it in to a shop to get the brake fluid replaced? Btw this video was very helpful, thank you for making it.
I am missing some more info but as long as the break fluid in the reservoir did not go lower than the lowest mark and introduce air into the break lines or the ABS system no issue. If it did the issue is still not that bad depending on your make and model. Flush the system by adding break fluid to the full line and drain to the low line from each break caliper do not allow the fluid to go past the lowest mark and keep adding new break fluid as needed. I like to do about 1 to 2 bottles worth and air bubbles have never been an issue. If Air gets in the ABS system it's usually been cleared by this method but you must be cautious and consider a shop for this type of problem as on some cars you need a special device to actuate the ABS to get the air bubbles out.
@@conanhall1I think the thought is that when you push the piston back in to make room for the thicker new pads it pushes more fluid back to the reservoir than it had before and the cap being off allows for the extra pressure to come through. Idk if it really matters though.
Of course! You are very welcome! That's what my channel is here for. Please feel free to watch more of my content, and if it makes sense, subscribe and help keep this community growing!
Ahhhhh… I was good until I saw the tightening with a torque wrench like it was a regular ratchet. Was told could strip the gears out. So I’ve always just tightened up with a regular ratchet until putting the car on the ground and torque spec-ing from there. Great video overall. 💪🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Alex, I have been hard at work making more car repair videos. I just released this one and thought you may like it. Cheers! ua-cam.com/video/97T4jvZV0ps/v-deo.html
I beleive he had 80k miles on the rotors, I did not measure the rotors as the client decided he wanted replaced. 35 - 50k on the pads. City driving kills those pads quick.
Just followed exactly how you did it mate, but now the car won't turn on, because of abs light on, and I can hear it clicking when I am trying to turn it on. And the anti-crash light shows on at the same time as the abs light when trying to turn the car on
Wow! I am sorry you are having issues. It sounds like you allowed the break fluid reservoir to drain beyond the indicated line or air entered the breaking system some how. I suggest you do a full break fluid flush. I will address this question on my live stream tonight and see what other guidance the community has.
@@edtheoldtechguy hello again mate. I troubleshoot it, and 2 things helped me out. 1. Used some electrical spray cleaner to clean of any spilled brake fluid on the cables. 2. Got jump starter from my neighbor car, and both or 1 of them help me start the car up again. Now perfectly running without any warning signs 😊🤘 But found your video useful mate! Thank you again!
I appreciate but to the bolt you did not put the tread lock, so that it may not become the loose with vibration....if I am right accept it otherwise ignore it please
Hey, no problem, some do use thread locker. I have not used it for breakes for decades and have not ever had a bolt come lose due to vibration. It could be the rust in my parts keeps things tight where I am.
Really why? Out here those things rust and usually have to get drilled out. That Makita impact driver is a small one its not the big one. I would love to hear more on why you say this.
@@edtheoldtechguy "Never ever use an impact gun on the rotor screws". This may eliminate the chance of damaging the screw face and save you more on the unnecessary work. When people repair the cars on the youtube, most of them are NOT professional. They can get things done but not done the right way. I have seen people replacing the brake pads and leave the caliper dangling. if they are lucky, they can still get the jobs done. If they are not, you will not simply tell them "hey, no big deal, just replace the brake line".
@@wengv Thank you for your take on this. I live in the midwest, where most of the time the disc screw needs to be drilled out and never replaced. Even local dealerships do this. My dealership even informed me that the screw is used at the factory only to hold the discs in place on the assembly line while the caliper and pads are built around it. It serves no other use. I am not technically a pro but I have been working on cars for many years. If you are a certified Pro I will take your word for it, but I have to ask, what do you use in the rust belt then? Admittedly I have been using my impact gun or the impact screwdriver and hammer for years. Fortunately, I have never had a problem and I have repaired many cars. I've also drilled out many screws and again no issue. Perhaps you are right, there are those who will try to do the work themselves and no matter how well you show them to do something, they will make mistakes. These mistakes can be costly. There is an amount of mechanical competence that is assumed when someone watches these videos and attempts the work themselves. As always I am simply showing how I do the work and what has worked for me. I truly appreciate your advice and I will bring the subject to the mechanic community here on youtube to see what their take is for more advice.
@@edtheoldtechguy you are correct, those screws are installed at the factory for assembly and aren’t even necessary after that. The wheel is going to hold the rotor on anyway. It’s nothing wrong with using the screws though and that small impact isn’t going to really do any damage. I always use a screwdriver bit with a ratchet and socket but it’s all the same.
I understand, hopefully I have provided you with enough knowledge to ask the right questions and know what is involved in a good brake job. Good mechanics work hard and really do earn their money.
Watched this video twice and referenced it a few times but I was able to get everything done in about an hour and a half. Extremely helpful video thank you!
You are very welcome it was my pleasure
He is right, the new brakes pads will absorb oil or grease. Keep everything clean. And is right on for the greasing of parts. Outstanding teacher!
Thank you, very kind
Dont be afraid to whack the love out of that old rotor! Haha. Thanks for the video. I've probably done brake jobs a half dozen times, but not in the past 15 years. I appreciate the chance to get confidence boosted and my memory refreshed before I dive in.
The rotors were already warped so i let the pads go to metal. 85k miles. Being a hyundai, i think this mught be the last brake job this thing sees.
Thank you for watching and great comment.
not sure why the "being a Hyundai" comment. I'm getting ready to replace my front rotors and pads for the 3rd time @286K miles.
@KBzPTGT you say that like any respectable portion of Hyundai/Kia products are bound to approach 300k. It just isn't true, and the evidence is everywhere. They're fine cars for the price and I do believe they have been improving, but let's not be silly.
I have to do the same exact job this weekend. I appreciate your work thanks for posting!
Super video. I'm watching this from Quebec, Canada. Very usefull. I did mine like a pro because of you. Thanks!!
I am so glad I could help, this is what my channel is all about!
Is there a video on the rear drum brakes on those Elantras?
Thanks for this instructional video. When I've worked on breaks in the past it would take 90 minutes one side... and 15 on the other. Always something I'd forget about. Now I'll have everything I need at the ready and I won't forget any steps. I'm using akebono breaks for the 1st time as I've heard they are very good & come with all new plates & retaining springs. Thanks Again.
I am glad I could help. That is the only reason I have a UA-cam channel
I'm doing this tomorrow. I got a 4 wheel brake kit from RockAuto for a decent price. I sprung for coated rotors and ceramic pads for the first time ever. I'm installing on an '08 Lexus RX 350. My car has center point jack spots. It will be the first time I ever had my whole car up on jack stands. It's the easiest way to change the fluid and all components though.
A tip for the phillips screws in the rotors - a quick spray of panther piss aka PB Blaster then use the cheap impact screw driver from Harbor Freight. Breaks them loose quick, fast and in a hurry. I'm here because of the Bear.
Very helpful Video. I like how you did the complete demonstration. Your a very good teacher & demonstrator. You did an excellent job explaining everything slowly and clearly along with showing the video. Good job. Than you for taking the time and showing us. Your Thank you so much, Greatly appreciated
I am so glad it helped. That is what my channel is about. I want to help as many people as possible.
Thank you for sharing this...great insight! Helping my son with his Elantra
You are most certainly welcome! Helping others is the reason for my channel.
I just noticed that you published this video on my birthday. Nice.
Are you jacking up and lowering one side at a time or do you habe 2 Jack's to raise and drop the car on stands? I've done one side at a time before and the car would slide on the 1 jack as the other side was raising and ended up falling. Not sure if you have a trick if that's the case
Ok. I watched the whole thing now and holy cow, brother. I'm pretty impressed with this video. Great editing and that lavaliere mic is pretty good sounding! I normally have at least something critical to say, but this is really good in my opinion (even the background music which I am normally not a fan of). The only thing I really had to add is the impact screw driver and when you're doing the bedding stops, try not to stay stopped for long if at all. You don't want the hot pads to linger and heat one place in the rotor (unevenly) as that may case a warp.
Thanks man appreciate the info!
I appreciate and love the honest feedback. That's the kind of info I need to grow my little channel. @Tech Gorilla thank you bro!
I need help with what style/size these rotors are.
I tried searching on Canadian Tire and apparently it’s not showing up even though I have mentioned what make of my vehicle and year is.
I have a Hyundai ELANTRA se 2017. Will this video help me with this model ?
Nice job on the brakes pads and rotors well explained 👍
Thank you Sir
Nice video. I'm changing my little girl's brakes this weekend on the same exact car.
Glad I could help.
Thank you for the video it helped us out big time!!
No worries, brother, it's what I am here for. Please recommend my channel to others. I talk a lot about tools tech diy.
Thanks for this! Bought some premium pads and rotors from Napa instead of paying the stealership... I've done brakes on my last car, an 09 Toyota Matrix, but always helpful to get a breakdown before tearing apart the assembly on a car for the first time. Easy peazy and back to quiet driving and stopping.
I'll have to get a run through on rear drums when the time comes for new shoes as I've never tackled drum brakes before.
Please let me know what you think the best way to do
Thanks this helped a lot!
Glad it helped!
First! We gotta do my ride next !
Hi Ed, I messed up when changing the front brake pads. After squeezing each piston, I pumped the brakes while the cap was off of the brake fluid reservoir. How serious was this mistake? Should I bring it in to a shop to get the brake fluid replaced?
Btw this video was very helpful, thank you for making it.
I am missing some more info but as long as the break fluid in the reservoir did not go lower than the lowest mark and introduce air into the break lines or the ABS system no issue. If it did the issue is still not that bad depending on your make and model. Flush the system by adding break fluid to the full line and drain to the low line from each break caliper do not allow the fluid to go past the lowest mark and keep adding new break fluid as needed. I like to do about 1 to 2 bottles worth and air bubbles have never been an issue. If Air gets in the ABS system it's usually been cleared by this method but you must be cautious and consider a shop for this type of problem as on some cars you need a special device to actuate the ABS to get the air bubbles out.
You will know you messed up if your pedal is super soft or not working the breaks right. Test carefully.
@@edtheoldtechguy thank you!!
I NEVER take the cap off, that's stupid. Whoever heard of that?!! Leave it on!
@@conanhall1I think the thought is that when you push the piston back in to make room for the thicker new pads it pushes more fluid back to the reservoir than it had before and the cap being off allows for the extra pressure to come through. Idk if it really matters though.
You made a very clear and informative video🎥..good job👍
Glad you liked it
thanks bro , you are the best
Of course! You are very welcome! That's what my channel is here for. Please feel free to watch more of my content, and if it makes sense, subscribe and help keep this community growing!
Ahhhhh… I was good until I saw the tightening with a torque wrench like it was a regular ratchet. Was told could strip the gears out. So I’ve always just tightened up with a regular ratchet until putting the car on the ground and torque spec-ing from there. Great video overall. 💪🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks! I have never heard of tightening with a torque wrench being an issue but hey learn something new every day. Thanks!
Thank you so much !
You're welcome!
Thanks ed for the information
You are welcome, I am happy the video helped. More automotive videos coming this summer. Hope I can earn your subscription and viewership.
What was wrong with the old rotors? It looked fine to me.
The customer opted for replacement
Very good video thank you very much
Glad you liked it!
Alex, I have been hard at work making more car repair videos. I just released this one and thought you may like it. Cheers! ua-cam.com/video/97T4jvZV0ps/v-deo.html
Great video, thanks
Thanks for vid!
Good job...
Thank you
How many miles did the brakes last? Do you recall if the rotors really needed to be replaced?
I beleive he had 80k miles on the rotors, I did not measure the rotors as the client decided he wanted replaced. 35 - 50k on the pads. City driving kills those pads quick.
Just followed exactly how you did it mate, but now the car won't turn on, because of abs light on, and I can hear it clicking when I am trying to turn it on.
And the anti-crash light shows on at the same time as the abs light when trying to turn the car on
...And it's a 2017 Hyundai i30/Elantra PDE/PD.
Wow! I am sorry you are having issues. It sounds like you allowed the break fluid reservoir to drain beyond the indicated line or air entered the breaking system some how. I suggest you do a full break fluid flush. I will address this question on my live stream tonight and see what other guidance the community has.
@@edtheoldtechguy hello again mate.
I troubleshoot it, and 2 things helped me out. 1. Used some electrical spray cleaner to clean of any spilled brake fluid on the cables.
2. Got jump starter from my neighbor car, and both or 1 of them help me start the car up again. Now perfectly running without any warning signs 😊🤘
But found your video useful mate! Thank you again!
Good video
I appreciate but to the bolt you did not put the tread lock, so that it may not become the loose with vibration....if I am right accept it otherwise ignore it please
Hey, no problem, some do use thread locker. I have not used it for breakes for decades and have not ever had a bolt come lose due to vibration. It could be the rust in my parts keeps things tight where I am.
Love the background music lol
Thanks LOL 😆
What about rear brakes?
You got it! Next time a client brings one I will do a video on it. Thank you for the suggestion.
@@edtheoldtechguy Your video is one of the best ones I have seen so far..👍
@@animalsworld615 wow thank you!
Never ever use an impact gun on the rotor screws.
Really why? Out here those things rust and usually have to get drilled out. That Makita impact driver is a small one its not the big one. I would love to hear more on why you say this.
@@edtheoldtechguy "Never ever use an impact gun on the rotor screws". This may eliminate the chance of damaging the screw face and save you more on the unnecessary work. When people repair the cars on the youtube, most of them are NOT professional. They can get things done but not done the right way. I have seen people replacing the brake pads and leave the caliper dangling. if they are lucky, they can still get the jobs done. If they are not, you will not simply tell them "hey, no big deal, just replace the brake line".
@@wengv Thank you for your take on this. I live in the midwest, where most of the time the disc screw needs to be drilled out and never replaced. Even local dealerships do this. My dealership even informed me that the screw is used at the factory only to hold the discs in place on the assembly line while the caliper and pads are built around it. It serves no other use. I am not technically a pro but I have been working on cars for many years. If you are a certified Pro I will take your word for it, but I have to ask, what do you use in the rust belt then? Admittedly I have been using my impact gun or the impact screwdriver and hammer for years. Fortunately, I have never had a problem and I have repaired many cars. I've also drilled out many screws and again no issue. Perhaps you are right, there are those who will try to do the work themselves and no matter how well you show them to do something, they will make mistakes. These mistakes can be costly. There is an amount of mechanical competence that is assumed when someone watches these videos and attempts the work themselves. As always I am simply showing how I do the work and what has worked for me. I truly appreciate your advice and I will bring the subject to the mechanic community here on youtube to see what their take is for more advice.
@@edtheoldtechguy you are correct, those screws are installed at the factory for assembly and aren’t even necessary after that. The wheel is going to hold the rotor on anyway.
It’s nothing wrong with using the screws though and that small impact isn’t going to really do any damage. I always use a screwdriver bit with a ratchet and socket but it’s all the same.
@@Bgoodman6113 Thank you! 😊 I have done it this way for a long time now, no complaints or issues 😉 Really appreciate your comment.
Here's a subscribe, like and comment 😉
Wow thank you!
I could do without the background music.
Thanks for the feedback
All that work and no torque specs
This is too much. I’ll just take it to a mechanic
I understand, hopefully I have provided you with enough knowledge to ask the right questions and know what is involved in a good brake job. Good mechanics work hard and really do earn their money.
Just know which ones to trust, a lot of mechanics like doing jobs like these
WORST music ever for a repair video!
Thanks! I try hard to please
the song is call new pad man. it fit :-) lolll