Sir this is the most well communicated video I’ve ever seen. I watched till the end and had no anger for the creator for not including very important parts of information, bravo sir
@@JorgeRodriguez-po7kx Hey there sorry for the late reply. at the 3:54min mark that is anti-seize used for steel on steel amzn.to/44mQY5h I'm putting it where the steel part of the pad slides on the caliper bracket. Caliper lube goes in where the pins slide and this is different, look at 3:12 and you will see I'm using a purple lubricant. this is for the sliders, you need something that is good for rubber on steel. something like this amzn.to/3pNRp9B Sorry about the late reply, but just saw your message.
Very true, just like practice ! The more you watch the more you learn. You will also find out the many vehicles are very similar. Little differences here and there, but same concept :)
Hey G K! Here catching up! Another truly interesting video! The close up shots get me all the time. Love that we are able to see things clearly. Great tutorial. 👌🏽❤️
Thanks for the sub and really appreciate the comment. You will see I do a mix of tool (snap on sales) and reviews and auto repairs. I answer my comments so I'm here if you need me. Thanks again !!
@@GarageKing I learned how to "hyper-mile" a long time ago. I try to anticipate stops as much as possible, and spend a lot of time coasting to a red-light or stop-sign. I don't drive aggressively like I did when I was younger. I typically get over 40mpg, sometimes as much as 45mpg on a long trip.
I always ballpark it when replacing my brakes and rotors not to tight but not loose love the video when there's something you don't no you learn something new thanks
Hey There, the blue stuff is anti-squeal and its suppose to suppress brake noise. The grey stuff was anti-seize so it makes it easier to get the rotor off in the future.
Thanks! Quick question, Will the dealer shop do all all these when maintenance steps and part replacements? They're charging me $400 to change the breaks but not sure if this whole process you just showed is standard
Well thats a good question haha. Sometimes shops will just replace the pads/rotors and not take anything apart to clean. It's unfortunate, but it happens. Your best bet is to ask the shop how they "service" the calipers and hope they tell you the truth.
Fan-damn-tastic video! I am a total Gilligan when it comes to working on my car but this video gives me the confidence to tackle this job. Thank you! BTW, what kind of socket wrench is that, the neck curves.
Thanks so much for the comment !! I use a Snap On flex head ratchet and love the thing. I never use a regular ratchet after that. You can get them cheaper on Amazon amzn.to/45JplU7 and they are SUPER helpful. It makes work a bunch easier. I forget what the Snap On one cost, but it was well over 100.
Thanks !!! Ya the blooper was small, it was at 5:52 I think, it was just me dropping the socket, I have to do better bloopers !!! Now I'm starting to just record everything so I can have a lot of editing discretion with the video. I use to film it and talk on the camera when I'm working, now its a mix and I do lots of voice over so I can fast forward the boring parts (but still show them at 20X speed) Great to see you back !!!
NO the rear is different. Its similar, but not the same. I can't recall if the rear pistons are pushed in like the front, or if they are the twist type where you need a special tool to twist them in.
On most cars with regular driving you should get 3 years or more. On the Tesla they pretty much never need changing because of the regenerative braking :)
What size rotors are these? I was looking on rock auto and there’s a million sizes even after I put in my make model and year and I can’t really find the stock size. I’m guessing 280mm?
Hey There, that i would not remember and you can't measure them without taking them off and laying them flat on the bench. Might be best to go to the local parts store for this one as its easy to exchange.
I just realized that the reason I can't find a single thing on my 2023 elantra sel on brakes is because almost no one has driven 34000 miles on them yet. If you can, would this sort of still apply to mine? it seems like it will.
Hi There, for my experience all cars are the same, you start furthest and work your way closest, so: 1. passenger rear 2. driver rear 3. passenger front 4. driver front
Hi There, if you are changing the pads and rotors you have nothing to worry about as the rotors have a fine micro finish on them to bed the pads. Best thing to do to prevent squeal is to make sure you lube the pins well, the sliding areas, and the rear of the pads. This is the best stuff I have found so far, and I use a lot of different products. This is safe for rubber, and you can use it on the pins and back of pads as well. amzn.to/3vpMs9i
While I can't say for sure, I would guess they are very similar. They don't change much year to year. The brakes should come apart the same way. You could always double check the torque specs to make sure they have not changed.
You have to get the size the fits the car, so that must be looked up, in terms of brand I find that if you can get a "coated" one for a good price they last longer and are worth the little xtra. Brand is not as important as getting a coated one (for the rust protection)
Hey There, I believe you are talking about the 17mm bolts that secure the caliper bracket to the spindle and I just used a 3/8 drive 17mm socket on a flex head ratchet. I have Snap On tools, but unless you are doing work all the time you can easily get away with much more affordable tools. Here is a flex head ratchet amzn.to/3SOxpjf Thanks and hope you are enjoying your weekend.
@@jamespak8175 Hey, the 3/8" is the square size. Sockets are put on a ratchet and they have a mm size on one end and a drive size on the other. All sockets commonly come in 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2' drive, that's the square side you don't see as it attaches to the ratchet. The other side has 6 points and fits on the bolt, you just have to get the right size. In this case it was 17mm. Here is what the socket looks like by itself amzn.to/3ul5HAp. I already sent the link for a good flex head ratchet. Hope this helps !!
I don't use one, but I'm a licenced mechanic who has done A LOT of brake jobs. If you have never done a brake job then I would say you should use a torque wrench as you really would not know how "tight" is "tight"
The only place you should ever use it is the steel on steel so where the steel part of the pad rides in the caliper. If you saw me use it anywhere else please let me know. Now I use this stuff, and it can go anywhere. Safe for all rubbers for the pins. The stuff is fabulous. amzn.to/48UD3W3
Hey, great video and very detailed. I have a question about the pads. what makes them wear out so unevenly? I always thought it has something to do with the calipers. but I guess yours seems to be fine.
Hey there, two things really. 1. Caliper pins that are stiff, many times when brake jobs are done people don't lubricate the pins and it causes uneven wear. 2. Rotors - many times one side of the rotor becomes corroded/rusted and that "roughness" wears the pad much faster than a smooth surface would.
What is the next step for braking? Do you just have to pump the brakes to reset the piston? Doing pads and rotors you don’t need to change and fluids or anything?
Yes, once all together just pump the brakes and the pistons will reset. You don't have to change the fluid, but it is good practice to change the brake fluid every few years. If you want to do that, do it after the brake job. So once you do the brake job still pump up the brakes by pumping the brake pedal until it gets hard. Then after that point you can bleed the brakes.
12 Like love this video always good to learn and refresh the mind. I like your video always to the point and direct . I will need to do some brake job soon. Have a great day my friend. thanks for share another great lesson. Fully watch always no skipping here.
Thanks for making this video. Clearly explained. And may I ask you something. Is the rotor and brake pad should be replaced at the same time even if the break pad still have 70% left? My Hyundai dealer recommended me to replace both because the rotor need to be replaced.
Thanks for the comment, and you can ask me anything :) If your pads still have 70% left you can reuse them just fine, similar to if you are replacing the pads, you can leave the rotors if they are good. If you brake pads are worn past 50% well sometimes its best to do it all as the cost/labour to do just one (pads or rotors) is usually the same as doing all of them so that's why they tell you to do them all, then you are good for another few years. But if your pads are 70% I would probably leave them, especially if they are factory pads. I am a licensed mechanic so I have done many brake jobs.
@@GarageKing thank for your prompt response. I would probably follow your video to try to replace the rotor myself and leave the brake pad then. Cheers.
No, unless someone has topped up the brake fluid at a service prior to the pad change. The brake fluid does down as the pads wear (as the brake fluid goes into the caliper piston) and when you do the job that fluid gets pushed back. Its always a benefit if you can bleed the brakes. But to answer your question, nope, unless someone has topped it off.
The Phillips screws are not for alignment purposes. They are to secure the rotor to the axle during assembly in the factory, before receiving the caliber brackets. Otherwise they might fall on factory workers from overhead assembly lines. Never reinstall those screws, throw them away.😮
Also don’t push old dirty fluid back up the brake line system, instead just crack open the bleeder valve and dump junk fluid out when compressing the caliper piston. Then top off with fresh fluid when pads are in.
I know many cars have those clips, but this vehicle did not, you can see when I pulled the pads there were none there (now possible someone forgot them) but then when I took out the old pads and compared with the new pads there were no tension clips, and also the pads are not drilled at the top. Almost every pads that has them, they clip into the tops of the pads and apply a light pressure to keep them spread apart. This vehicle didn't have any. Good eye, but this vehicle didn't have any tension clips. Not all vehicles have them. I do appreciate the comment.
Hello my friend, I hope you are well... 👏👍🎶 It's always a pleasure for me to visit you and watch your beautiful videos 💯❤ See you soon for new uploads, I wish you a pleasant week ahead...👍❤ Take care of yourself and your family,👌🙋 Musically, 🎵 Your faithful friend, Bekaa 🙂 Let's always stay united and connected 🙏
With great pleasure my good friend!! I hope to see you again very soon in a next video on our respective channels..... Take care!!! Your faithful friend, Bekaa
I wonder if that is part of the pad itself? Some pads have steel filings in them (some copper) and when worn it can look like a wire. Wonder if that's what it is. You should not have any electrical wires in there LOL :)
Hey there, when you push the piston back in the brake fluid reservoir fluid level will raise. If someone topped it off, its going to overflow a bit and you will have to wipe up the brake fluid that runs out.
@@GarageKing sorry what I meant to say is do you leave the reservoir cap open to avoid any pressure build up/back pressure when pressing back the piston?
Sir this is the most well communicated video I’ve ever seen. I watched till the end and had no anger for the creator for not including very important parts of information, bravo sir
Thank you for the great comment. Its not easy, but I do my best, thanks again and happy Saturday to you !!
Where can You buy the Caliper Lube ? 3:54
@@JorgeRodriguez-po7kx Hey there sorry for the late reply. at the 3:54min mark that is anti-seize used for steel on steel amzn.to/44mQY5h I'm putting it where the steel part of the pad slides on the caliper bracket. Caliper lube goes in where the pins slide and this is different, look at 3:12 and you will see I'm using a purple lubricant. this is for the sliders, you need something that is good for rubber on steel. something like this amzn.to/3pNRp9B Sorry about the late reply, but just saw your message.
Probably hands down the best video to demonstrate how this is done. It's guys like this that make UA-cam awesome.
Appreciate the great comment, I always put my best foot forward !! Thanks again :)
One great thing about brake job is the more you watch the more you learn ! I can and watch brake job video all day and never get tire of it.
Very true, just like practice ! The more you watch the more you learn. You will also find out the many vehicles are very similar. Little differences here and there, but same concept :)
That’s a good pun you used at the end 😂
The best video on brakes job I've ever seen! WOW!
Hey thanks so much, truly appreciate the comment and thank you !!!!
I like how the new one looks. Super clean
Super Duper Clean !!
Great video. You absolutely nailed the delivery of information on this one.
Thank you good Sir, and much appreciated !!
Hey G K! Here catching up! Another truly interesting video! The close up shots get me all the time. Love that we are able to see things clearly. Great tutorial. 👌🏽❤️
Thank you :)
Hey hey not been around for a while but just came to check in with my king of all car things 🚙
Well thank you my dear !!! I do appreciate that. Keeping busy as always and wondering what the next video will be............
Excited to catch on here. Until then the playlist is going 👋🏼
Thanks so much, and so glad to see you :)
@@GarageKing Happy to see you!
Best video! Definitely saving this video, for when I do my brakes. Thanks brother!! Subscribing!
Thanks for the sub and really appreciate the comment. You will see I do a mix of tool (snap on sales) and reviews and auto repairs. I answer my comments so I'm here if you need me. Thanks again !!
Excellent video!! Thanks! I have this job coming up soon on my 2018 Elantra. 80k miles so far on the original pads.
Thank you for the great comment, you did well with 80K miles on the original pads, you obviously know how to drive.
That’s double the life….. have you peeked at all four inside pads?
@@GarageKing I learned how to "hyper-mile" a long time ago. I try to anticipate stops as much as possible, and spend a lot of time coasting to a red-light or stop-sign. I don't drive aggressively like I did when I was younger. I typically get over 40mpg, sometimes as much as 45mpg on a long trip.
@@MegaBomber1965 Not yet. Something I need to do! Thanks.
@@toprudder1 Thats the way to do it !!
Thank you brother! Excellent video
Appreciate the comment, thank you !!!
I always ballpark it when replacing my brakes and rotors not to tight but not loose love the video when there's something you don't no you learn something new thanks
Thank you for the comment !!
you are a good auto mechanic
Thank you :) Do appreciate the comment !!
Is the caliper spreader necessary?
You make it look so easy
Its the editing haha!!!!
Hi man what sort of solutions you have used in the video. I have got the idea of the tools but not the blue and grey thing you used.
Hey There, the blue stuff is anti-squeal and its suppose to suppress brake noise. The grey stuff was anti-seize so it makes it easier to get the rotor off in the future.
Thanks! Quick question, Will the dealer shop do all all these when maintenance steps and part replacements? They're charging me $400 to change the breaks but not sure if this whole process you just showed is standard
Well thats a good question haha. Sometimes shops will just replace the pads/rotors and not take anything apart to clean. It's unfortunate, but it happens. Your best bet is to ask the shop how they "service" the calipers and hope they tell you the truth.
Great video, saving this for upcoming dyi
Thank you good Sir !!
Awesome video man. You’re saving us all money.
Thanks for the great comment and a dollar saved is a dollar earned !!
Fan-damn-tastic video! I am a total Gilligan when it comes to working on my car but this video gives me the confidence to tackle this job. Thank you! BTW, what kind of socket wrench is that, the neck curves.
Thanks so much for the comment !! I use a Snap On flex head ratchet and love the thing. I never use a regular ratchet after that. You can get them cheaper on Amazon amzn.to/45JplU7 and they are SUPER helpful. It makes work a bunch easier. I forget what the Snap On one cost, but it was well over 100.
Loving the art 🤣 part! I didn't see a blooper!
Thanks !!! Ya the blooper was small, it was at 5:52 I think, it was just me dropping the socket, I have to do better bloopers !!! Now I'm starting to just record everything so I can have a lot of editing discretion with the video. I use to film it and talk on the camera when I'm working, now its a mix and I do lots of voice over so I can fast forward the boring parts (but still show them at 20X speed) Great to see you back !!!
@@GarageKing I saw and laughed. I almost missed it. Videoing everything and chopping it later works for me! Yay ~ happy to be back!
Is the rear identical to the front rotor and pad job?
NO the rear is different. Its similar, but not the same. I can't recall if the rear pistons are pushed in like the front, or if they are the twist type where you need a special tool to twist them in.
I see, it real thanks a lot to do such video editing.
Most welcome 😊 and thank you
What is that piece called at 4:25 ???
I don't think they have an official name. Those could be the pad guides maybe? Or pad retainers?
How long do pads usually last?
On most cars with regular driving you should get 3 years or more. On the Tesla they pretty much never need changing because of the regenerative braking :)
@@GarageKing oh wow! Tesla is def on my to get list
@@karlinladeramusic it’s definitely a money saver with these gas prices !!!
@@GarageKing outrageous gas prices
@@karlinladeramusic You know it, gas is crazy !!!
What size rotors are these? I was looking on rock auto and there’s a million sizes even after I put in my make model and year and I can’t really find the stock size. I’m guessing 280mm?
Hey There, that i would not remember and you can't measure them without taking them off and laying them flat on the bench. Might be best to go to the local parts store for this one as its easy to exchange.
I just realized that the reason I can't find a single thing on my 2023 elantra sel on brakes is because almost no one has driven 34000 miles on them yet. If you can, would this sort of still apply to mine? it seems like it will.
Yes, it will be very similar. Hyundai hasn't changed much over the generations.
Do you know the order for bleeding the brakes? I have a 21 Elantra and want to do that as well thanks!
Hi There, for my experience all cars are the same, you start furthest and work your way closest, so: 1. passenger rear 2. driver rear 3. passenger front 4. driver front
Do I have to do anything so the breaks don’t glaze ?
Hi There, if you are changing the pads and rotors you have nothing to worry about as the rotors have a fine micro finish on them to bed the pads. Best thing to do to prevent squeal is to make sure you lube the pins well, the sliding areas, and the rear of the pads. This is the best stuff I have found so far, and I use a lot of different products. This is safe for rubber, and you can use it on the pins and back of pads as well. amzn.to/3vpMs9i
Is this manual suitable for Hyundai Elantra 7th generation? Thank you
While I can't say for sure, I would guess they are very similar. They don't change much year to year. The brakes should come apart the same way. You could always double check the torque specs to make sure they have not changed.
Is there a specific brand or sized rotor that I should get?
You have to get the size the fits the car, so that must be looked up, in terms of brand I find that if you can get a "coated" one for a good price they last longer and are worth the little xtra. Brand is not as important as getting a coated one (for the rust protection)
@@GarageKing thanks for the fast reply🙏🏾
@@Yorana9069 Happy to be of service :)
Does anyone know what that wrench is called for the 17??
Or know of any wrench that fits sockets?
Hey There, I believe you are talking about the 17mm bolts that secure the caliper bracket to the spindle and I just used a 3/8 drive 17mm socket on a flex head ratchet. I have Snap On tools, but unless you are doing work all the time you can easily get away with much more affordable tools. Here is a flex head ratchet amzn.to/3SOxpjf Thanks and hope you are enjoying your weekend.
@@GarageKing Sorry I'm having a hard time understanding this..
But is the "3/8 drive" and thr 17mm socket 2 different things?
@@jamespak8175 Hey, the 3/8" is the square size. Sockets are put on a ratchet and they have a mm size on one end and a drive size on the other. All sockets commonly come in 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2' drive, that's the square side you don't see as it attaches to the ratchet. The other side has 6 points and fits on the bolt, you just have to get the right size. In this case it was 17mm. Here is what the socket looks like by itself amzn.to/3ul5HAp. I already sent the link for a good flex head ratchet. Hope this helps !!
@@GarageKing Ah finally I get it! Tybso much!
@@jamespak8175 Anytime, and all good. Enjoy your day :)
Thank you sir absolute life saver
Thank you for the great comment !!
Do you need a torque wrench for this?
I don't use one, but I'm a licenced mechanic who has done A LOT of brake jobs. If you have never done a brake job then I would say you should use a torque wrench as you really would not know how "tight" is "tight"
Never seen anti seize used as brake lube before.
The only place you should ever use it is the steel on steel so where the steel part of the pad rides in the caliper. If you saw me use it anywhere else please let me know. Now I use this stuff, and it can go anywhere. Safe for all rubbers for the pins. The stuff is fabulous. amzn.to/48UD3W3
Hey, great video and very detailed. I have a question about the pads. what makes them wear out so unevenly? I always thought it has something to do with the calipers. but I guess yours seems to be fine.
Hey there, two things really. 1. Caliper pins that are stiff, many times when brake jobs are done people don't lubricate the pins and it causes uneven wear. 2. Rotors - many times one side of the rotor becomes corroded/rusted and that "roughness" wears the pad much faster than a smooth surface would.
What is the next step for braking? Do you just have to pump the brakes to reset the piston? Doing pads and rotors you don’t need to change and fluids or anything?
Yes, once all together just pump the brakes and the pistons will reset. You don't have to change the fluid, but it is good practice to change the brake fluid every few years. If you want to do that, do it after the brake job. So once you do the brake job still pump up the brakes by pumping the brake pedal until it gets hard. Then after that point you can bleed the brakes.
@@GarageKing thank you, but just for basic replacement of rotor and pads no fluids I don’t need to bleed the lines right?
@@CollinRyskin-rz3ii That is correct good Sir !!
12 Like love this video always good to learn and refresh the mind. I like your video always to the point and direct . I will need to do some brake job soon. Have a great day my friend. thanks for share another great lesson. Fully watch always no skipping here.
Thanks so much and remember if you have any questions you are always free to reach out to me !!
1:04 what is that tool called? Any1 know this?
Here you go amzn.to/3VVUGyH
Thanks for making this video. Clearly explained. And may I ask you something. Is the rotor and brake pad should be replaced at the same time even if the break pad still have 70% left? My Hyundai dealer recommended me to replace both because the rotor need to be replaced.
Thanks for the comment, and you can ask me anything :) If your pads still have 70% left you can reuse them just fine, similar to if you are replacing the pads, you can leave the rotors if they are good. If you brake pads are worn past 50% well sometimes its best to do it all as the cost/labour to do just one (pads or rotors) is usually the same as doing all of them so that's why they tell you to do them all, then you are good for another few years. But if your pads are 70% I would probably leave them, especially if they are factory pads. I am a licensed mechanic so I have done many brake jobs.
@@GarageKing thank for your prompt response. I would probably follow your video to try to replace the rotor myself and leave the brake pad then. Cheers.
@@ericsing83 Sounds good !!!
Great video! Thank you.
Glad you liked it and thanks !!
You don’t end up loosing your break fluid?
No, unless someone has topped up the brake fluid at a service prior to the pad change. The brake fluid does down as the pads wear (as the brake fluid goes into the caliper piston) and when you do the job that fluid gets pushed back. Its always a benefit if you can bleed the brakes. But to answer your question, nope, unless someone has topped it off.
That Rotor is Definitely Shot 😮
You know it !! Pads and Rotors were totally worn out !! Thanks for the comment :)
The Phillips screws are not for alignment purposes. They are to secure the rotor to the axle during assembly in the factory, before receiving the caliber brackets. Otherwise they might fall on factory workers from overhead assembly lines.
Never reinstall those screws, throw them away.😮
Ah, I learned something today. It does make sense. Thank you !!
sending support done watching here in uk 🇬🇧 ✔️❤😊
Thanks very much, I do appreciate that !!
Good. Guide. Thanks
Thank you
Also don’t push old dirty fluid back up the brake line system, instead just crack open the bleeder valve and dump junk fluid out when compressing the caliper piston. Then top off with fresh fluid when pads are in.
Excellent idea and I do that sometimes. Should have done it on this job.
Ahhh . . . . . .you Forgot the "Pad Tension" clips. they were made to keep the pads from sticking under heavy start-Stop condition aka: city Driving.
I know many cars have those clips, but this vehicle did not, you can see when I pulled the pads there were none there (now possible someone forgot them) but then when I took out the old pads and compared with the new pads there were no tension clips, and also the pads are not drilled at the top. Almost every pads that has them, they clip into the tops of the pads and apply a light pressure to keep them spread apart. This vehicle didn't have any. Good eye, but this vehicle didn't have any tension clips. Not all vehicles have them. I do appreciate the comment.
Its good and lovely
Thanks soo much !!!
Rings of saturn🛸
That was fun to put into the video :)
Hello my friend, I hope you are well... 👏👍🎶
It's always a pleasure for me to visit you and watch your beautiful videos 💯❤
See you soon for new uploads, I wish you a pleasant week ahead...👍❤
Take care of yourself and your family,👌🙋
Musically, 🎵
Your faithful friend, Bekaa 🙂
Let's always stay united and connected 🙏
Thank you kindly good sir !!!
With great pleasure my good friend!! I hope to see you again very soon in a next video on our respective channels.....
Take care!!!
Your faithful friend,
Bekaa
@@BekaaRi Thank you :)
Good evening warm and peaceful. your video is very good. Thank you for sharing offline. like 10 🔔🔔 new su.b🔔🔔
Thank you !!!
Looks like my pads have a wire in each end of the old pads.
I wonder if that is part of the pad itself? Some pads have steel filings in them (some copper) and when worn it can look like a wire. Wonder if that's what it is. You should not have any electrical wires in there LOL :)
👍👍👍👍 10 lik.e
Thank you !!
Hahah no anger for the creator, could not have worded it better.
Thank you !
very excited video nice ..full support my new friend lik.e and su.b 11 🛎🛎🙏🙏
Thank you !!!
VIDEO SO NICE. HAVE A GREAT DAY . ^^ LIKE10
Thank you !!
Im pretty sure I am due for a brake change
At least a brake check up :)
A couple of wacks😂
You know it, more than a couple of whacks can cause trouble 😆
Do you leave the brake fluid reservoir when pressing back in the caliper piston? I see some people do that just curious
Hey there, when you push the piston back in the brake fluid reservoir fluid level will raise. If someone topped it off, its going to overflow a bit and you will have to wipe up the brake fluid that runs out.
@@GarageKing sorry what I meant to say is do you leave the reservoir cap open to avoid any pressure build up/back pressure when pressing back the piston?
@@RM-ub1xd No just leave it closed. If it overflows a bit just wipe it off, no need to open.
@@GarageKing cool thanks for the reply I appreciate you!
@@RM-ub1xd Anytime !!