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15:30 the metal tab sticking out is a feeler gauge that will make contact with the rotor and make a squeak when your pads are low. it's not connected to a light on the dash. Some vehicles have an electric wear sensor for that feature. Otherwise like the video. Thanks.
You are the best! I replaced a lot of the lights with help of your videos, cabin and engine filters, oil and filter, tires etc. I replaced brake pads as you shown but figured out the discs also weared. Now watching how to replace the discs. Keep inform us, keep doing your videos! Thank you.
I want to thank World Mechanics as this was the primary video I relied on to change the pad/rotors on my 2013 hyundai elantra GT. This was great and very informative. My two suggestions that I thought would have been helpful throughout this process: 1) You will deal with stripped rotor screws....there's no getting around it.... 2) the new pads were extremely tight and I thought this was glossed over....despite ample grease, correct insertion of the new glides, sanding down corrosion, etc.....it was only learning from other sources that you may need to file/grind down the new pads so they do have some degree of movement. Again I want to stress these were awesome videos. My one suggestion is to include some of the likely "what could go wrong or be tough" situations.
You guys are great. Never a hands on guy, but watch your videos at least 10x to make sure and while I'm working on my Hyundai. I changed the map sensor which was harder than it looks due to the tight space. I changed brakes, rotors front and back, feel more like a man now LOL. It probably takes a mechanic a couple of hours to change the brakes and rotors, took me about 5 hours since it was my first time, but very cool.
I want to thank you very much for this video. Pretty much the same for my i40 except the calipers are on the rear side of the disc. Aside from having to drill out one of the retaining screws which holds the disc on because it was too far rusted, (which I found out you really don't need anyway) it went smooth. Legends 😀
Thanks! I needed to know what sockets/wrenches to bring on a 2 hour trip to change college daughter's brake pads. I knew if I sent her to a mechanic, they would charge $800 and up. Luckily, rotors were good. Just pads in about 45 minutes
Slotted/drilled rotors eat up the pads way faster than the traditional ones. Only benefits is, is that it cools better than non-slotted and looks sportier 😁
Thank you so much, i did follow your steps to finish my car work. It turned out easy with your videos. Again thank you and keep posting videos like this.👍
Excellent video. The only part that was not clear to me was the work on the caliper at 16:45. What was the tool you were using, and what exactly were you doing? Not sure I want to take this job on, but it really helps me to get a better understanding of the brake system....and maybe I'll have enough nerve to try it. Thanks for posting this video!
I think you're referring to him resetting the caliper piston. I just changed my pads on my 2008 Elantra, but the damned bolts on the pad bracket were too rusted to get off, I don't have a breaker bar. I'll have to change my rotors at a later date. But when you put the new pads on, you have to reset the piston. If you don't have the tools he has, and I didn't, you can use a c-clamp and one of the old break pads to depress the caliper piston. If you were talking about the caliper pins, he didn't take them out bc they were already working well.
@@094340 thanks, I just couldn't see much difference in the caliper before he compressed it compared to after he compressed it, but I guess there was. The rest of the job seemed straightforward(easy to say when you're just watching it lol). Glad to hear your 2008 Elantra is still kicking. Hoping to keep my 2013 for a few more years.
@@roger7918 Your welcome...but, if you do take this on, be prepared for some aggravation. Sure, if all the bolts came off with reasonable effort, this job really isn't that difficult. But in my case, I not only can't remove the bracket bolts to get at the rotors, but also 2 caliper pins are seized...one on each side. I didn't have time to remove the seized pins, so I just stuck the new pads on anyway for now, because the old pads were so worn. When spring comes I'll tackle the whole job, but I couldn't keep driving on those old pads. I think Autozone rents tools, so I'll just get the breaker bar from them, and hope that I also don't need a torch to get those bolts out.
Great detailed video guys. When you compress the piston, what happens to the fluid? Do you need to remove the full cap to allow the fluid some where to go and not put too much pressure in the brake line?
No, you are not adding or removing any fluid during this procedure. The piston pops outward when the pads are removed. All you are doing is returning the piston to it's proper position. This will not create too much pressure. Just press it in until the lip is flush with the caliper and stop. No farther.
I have a 2012 elantra gls facing the front wheel the caliper s are on the left .I noticed in most of the videos they are to the right what's the difference
Is the metal plate plate on the inside pad that the caliper piston pushes on supposed to be transferred to the new pads? I bought the Carquest Platinum Professional pads.
I discarded the little screws that go onto the rotor. I would assume these are only needed from the factory and do not serve a purpose after. Or do they?
Hi there. I have a big issue with that screws that keep router. I hit them , use wd40?, hit with hummer , ise break cleaner but don’t open and unfortunately one of them has damage. What can I do please help me. Mechanic with air screwdriver can help ? Thanks
I put the grease on the the brake pads yeah, the abrasive part that makes contact with the rotor lol they worked fine but after six months they started squealing it’s because there’s no grease where there should be
You should not need to bleed the brakes unless you open up the system..like change calipers out or new brake lines. If you get soft pedal feel it definitely is a good idea to bleed them.
Why don't you use a buffer pad to clean rust off because that sanding job was really sad, lol OK video on brake replacement and some one mentioned anti seize but over my years of being a technician I found that high temp (red) bearing grease works the best. You should have use blue thread lock. Sorry just nit picking and I do like that you use a torque wrench.
⛐ Check out our Garage to see what tools we use and recommend:
www.amazon.com/shop/worldmechanics
⛐ Subscribe and hit the notification bell by the subscribe button for new videos: ua-cam.com/channels/J9xpq0qUZevSEdBSFqO2ow.html
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Time 5:24 The usage of nylon ties to hang the calipers is a very useful tip.
Thanks man. Very useful. Just changed my car's front pads
15:30 the metal tab sticking out is a feeler gauge that will make contact with the rotor and make a squeak when your pads are low. it's not connected to a light on the dash. Some vehicles have an electric wear sensor for that feature. Otherwise like the video. Thanks.
You are the best! I replaced a lot of the lights with help of your videos, cabin and engine filters, oil and filter, tires etc. I replaced brake pads as you shown but figured out the discs also weared. Now watching how to replace the discs. Keep inform us, keep doing your videos! Thank you.
Great job on the video! You're attentiom to detail from safety to locktite on a bolt. Keep it up man!
Excellent instruction! One of the best thorough brake job's I've seen.
Same opinion here!!! Great job!!!🤗
I want to thank World Mechanics as this was the primary video I relied on to change the pad/rotors on my 2013 hyundai elantra GT. This was great and very informative. My two suggestions that I thought would have been helpful throughout this process:
1) You will deal with stripped rotor screws....there's no getting around it....
2) the new pads were extremely tight and I thought this was glossed over....despite ample grease, correct insertion of the new glides, sanding down corrosion, etc.....it was only learning from other sources that you may need to file/grind down the new pads so they do have some degree of movement.
Again I want to stress these were awesome videos. My one suggestion is to include some of the likely "what could go wrong or be tough" situations.
You guys are great. Never a hands on guy, but watch your videos at least 10x to make sure and while I'm working on my Hyundai. I changed the map sensor which was harder than it looks due to the tight space. I changed brakes, rotors front and back, feel more like a man now LOL. It probably takes a mechanic a couple of hours to change the brakes and rotors, took me about 5 hours since it was my first time, but very cool.
17:24 I check the brake fluid level on the reservoir first before compressing back the piston as the fluid level goes up
Hey guys, quick thanks. Your video helped me alot in changing the rear brakes on my elantra.
Thanks for showing everything exactly as it needs to be done and giving a detailed description. Excellent.
I want to thank you very much for this video. Pretty much the same for my i40 except the calipers are on the rear side of the disc. Aside from having to drill out one of the retaining screws which holds the disc on because it was too far rusted, (which I found out you really don't need anyway) it went smooth. Legends 😀
I've always used a large C-clamp. Saves you some money on a kit.
You can usually just run to an auto store and they'll rent you one for a couple bucks
Thank you so much for making this great video and explaining everything. You are saving me hundreds on this service.
Good video ,clear shots and well explained.Forgot to mention greasing the slider pins.
Thanks for the video. Very thorough and full of info. I’m taking notes so I don’t forget anything :D
I had a hell of a time trying to get the second pad in for the front driver side brake. Very much a rookie and will need to recheck my work.
Thanks for the info! Using this video as a guide for doing brakes on my Elantra!
Even if I don't trust myself to do this..gives us a better idea of what needs to be done. RIGHT w brakes. Great job showing it w explanations.
Thanks! I needed to know what sockets/wrenches to bring on a 2 hour trip to change college daughter's brake pads. I knew if I sent her to a mechanic, they would charge $800 and up. Luckily, rotors were good. Just pads in about 45 minutes
Best channel out of the rest
I used drilled & slotted brake rotors with high-class ceramic brake pads for my vehicle, which is the same as this one in the video!
Slotted/drilled rotors eat up the pads way faster than the traditional ones. Only benefits is, is that it cools better than non-slotted and looks sportier 😁
Thank you so much, i did follow your steps to finish my car work. It turned out easy with your videos. Again thank you and keep posting videos like this.👍
Excellent video. The only part that was not clear to me was the work on the caliper at 16:45. What was the tool you were using, and what exactly were you doing? Not sure I want to take this job on, but it really helps me to get a better understanding of the brake system....and maybe I'll have enough nerve to try it. Thanks for posting this video!
I think you're referring to him resetting the caliper piston.
I just changed my pads on my 2008 Elantra, but the damned bolts on the pad bracket were too rusted to get off, I don't have a breaker bar. I'll have to change my rotors at a later date.
But when you put the new pads on, you have to reset the piston. If you don't have the tools he has, and I didn't, you can use a c-clamp and one of the old break pads to depress the caliper piston.
If you were talking about the caliper pins, he didn't take them out bc they were already working well.
@@094340 thanks, I just couldn't see much difference in the caliper before he compressed it compared to after he compressed it, but I guess there was. The rest of the job seemed straightforward(easy to say when you're just watching it lol). Glad to hear your 2008 Elantra is still kicking. Hoping to keep my 2013 for a few more years.
@@roger7918
Your welcome...but, if you do take this on, be prepared for some aggravation.
Sure, if all the bolts came off with reasonable effort, this job really isn't that difficult. But in my case, I not only can't remove the bracket bolts to get at the rotors, but also 2 caliper pins are seized...one on each side.
I didn't have time to remove the seized pins, so I just stuck the new pads on anyway for now, because the old pads were so worn.
When spring comes I'll tackle the whole job, but I couldn't keep driving on those old pads. I think Autozone rents tools, so I'll just get the breaker bar from them, and hope that I also don't need a torch to get those bolts out.
"thread locks will save your wife" i like that =)
excellent job guys, appreciate the refresher course.
Great detailed video guys. When you compress the piston, what happens to the fluid? Do you need to remove the full cap to allow the fluid some where to go and not put too much pressure in the brake line?
No, you are not adding or removing any fluid during this procedure. The piston pops outward when the pads are removed. All you are doing is returning the piston to it's proper position. This will not create too much pressure. Just press it in until the lip is flush with the caliper and stop. No farther.
no if you remove the fluid you get air in the lines and have to drain them or you cant stop.
I have a 2012 elantra gls facing the front wheel the caliper s are on the left .I noticed in most of the videos they are to the right what's the difference
Let the WD-40 stay for 10 mins *3 seconds later* than tap it just like that. XD
I was like "flawless cut" to the next sequence 😅🤣
@@AlaGamesMobile he said you always wear glove even though he doesn't lol
😁🤣🤣🤣
Thanks for the video.
I am only changing the pads, do I have to remove the bracket?
I really like your videos. Great work here guys. I became an instant subscriber! Thank you for your time and efforts! 👍
Do you have a video on how to do the rear drum breaks? cant seem to find a reliable one
How do you fix a creaking that comes from the area of the subframe? Does it have bushings that need to be replaced? Hyundai Elantra 2011-16.
Is the metal plate plate on the inside pad that the caliper piston pushes on supposed to be transferred to the new pads? I bought the Carquest Platinum Professional pads.
You guys are awesome.
Z
Rookie question here.....should you also grease the caliper slide pins same time as doing the pads/rotors?
Im gonna change the rotors and pads on my 2013 elantra can u tell me if the caliper is still good i dont see any leaks so it should be good right
Excellent video. Thank you
Awesome information & tutorial
I discarded the little screws that go onto the rotor. I would assume these are only needed from the factory and do not serve a purpose after. Or do they?
Thanks for sharing! Just subbed!
Any updated links for the pads/rotors used?
Hi there. I have a big issue with that screws that keep router. I hit them , use wd40?, hit with hummer , ise break cleaner but don’t open and unfortunately one of them has damage. What can I do please help me.
Mechanic with air screwdriver can help ?
Thanks
Sir... what was the torque specs for 17mm bolts for bracket and 14mm bolts? Was it 70lbs and 20lbs? Thank you!
What about lubing the slide pins?
Bleed the brakes too?
Great video and VERY helpfull !! Thank you !!
Good video man, thanks
Perfect explanation, saved me $300 just by going to UA-cam University
Thank you guys , hope tomorrow make it done .
I have i30 I looked you content is very good you help me. Thanks you.
were the guide pins removed cleaned off and re greased ?
Thank you, spot on!
Red or blue thread lock?
I can't get the inside pad to fit into the clip, even with the screw driver
Thank you!!!
You are a god dude. Thanks.
how is the performance of these breaks? do you like them? if not which ones you recommend.i have the same car /year.thank you!
I couldn't separate the drum. I used the 4D well, but the drum didn't remove.
maybe in future can you guys make video how to replace caliper
I put the grease on the the brake pads yeah, the abrasive part that makes contact with the rotor lol they worked fine but after six months they started squealing it’s because there’s no grease where there should be
Should check the slider pins and possibly apply new grease.
Is brake grease the same thing as anti seize lubricant?
No, anti-seize will burn off eventually from the high heat. Brake lube can withstand high temperatures.
Nope. When you buy needs pads, most companies toss in that little packet of brake grease.
did the rotor really need replacing ?
Nice job guys!
Do you even need to compress the caliper? Sometimes you dong have too
If you are putting new brake pads on you will.
Small tip put the tire nice side facing down under the car, so if it does fall it doesn't hit the nice side,.
Put the nice side of the rim down on the concrete or asphalt, great tip!
No bleeding?
You should not need to bleed the brakes unless you open up the system..like change calipers out or new brake lines. If you get soft pedal feel it definitely is a good idea to bleed them.
@@christopherhendricks4369 Exactly, thank you.
Y'all didn't specify to open brake reservoir
Once it clicks (torque wrench) stop turning!
So the emergency brake needs to be pulled That's a new one for me.
Why don't you use a buffer pad to clean rust off because that sanding job was really sad, lol OK video on brake replacement and some one mentioned anti seize but over my years of being a technician I found that high temp (red) bearing grease works the best. You should have use blue thread lock. Sorry just nit picking and I do like that you use a torque wrench.
👏❤
OK
"wait 10 min" then does it right after
your voice is strange
Your language cannot be heard
Your english cannot be understood.