How to build a compressed air dryer cheap yet effective
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- Budget build diy compressed air dryer. Parts needed are at the end of the video.
here is a list of parts i purchased off amazon
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Great video. I did mine a little a differently. I placed the first filter below the level of the output connection of the tank and I also placed the inlet nipple on an "UP" pipe and not a "DOWN" pipe like you have it. The same with the outlet nipple, I placed it on an "UP" pipe. I tried to use gravity as much as possible to capture as much water as possible. Placing the first filter below the level of the tank outlet insures any water in that first 6 feet runs into the filter and not back into the tank. Looks great !!
6 different dryers / filters and lots of heat dissipation from the copper pipe, you got it covered 7 ways to Sunday! Sweet. I hate it, when water sprays out of the air tool. Lots of oil. Never thought about the dry air of the plasma cutter. Next, it just like Christmas and you are 12 years old. Hook it up, plug it in, cut some sheet metal then some thicker stuff. Then read the instructions with a brewski. Best of luck as it should work great. Man makes dryer, then man makes fire! Oh, Oooh, Ooah, OOH! Fire! lol
ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
I did it same way but i used Cpvc pipe 3/4 and it worked great nice job and video 👍
Good ideas. Changing the existing steel piping, so that there is a longer drop leg at the bottom (for the water catch), would have also helped (similar to creating a large heatsink). The air in and the air out would have been toward the top (of about a 4 foot steel drop leg). Do this twice, and you'll remove so much of the air that a standard desiccant trap will remove the remaining 1% of moisture from the line. Also, inside surface area is important, so keeping the piping as large as possible (most come out of the tank at 3/4" NPT), not only keeps pressures up but also increases the available cooling surface area inside the line. Finally, heating the desiccant to 245 for 24 hours will remove all of the moisture and allow you to re-use the desiccant beads (you can get more in those little white packets that come with just about every electronics or tool that's new in the box). As with most gasses, the longer the restricted run, the harder it is to maintain high enough pressure. But the added 90 degree turns increases the "effective" length of the run by approximately 20 feet, and will substantially cool the gasses to allow the latent moisture to drop out of the mixture.
You should upgrade your copper to a one inch copper pipe
He is just penny-pinching!!
Works better when you put it between the pump and the tank rather than after.
How do u do that
@@davidquesenberry7366 Yep
@@davidquesenberry7366 there is a copper pipe that go's from the pump to the tank . detach it , just a fitting , go from there to your drier , " put your drier in a refrigerator "
@@huckstirred7112 That makes sense. Also saves your tank from rusting prematurely on the inside......brilliant!!!
@@frankyvee1 my drier is a small car radiator . The air is pushed threw by a small blower then to the pump . After the pump , then it goes to another radiator in the freezer to the tank . Way over board . But the refrigerator was there , so why not . So yea just put a car radiator in the garage refrigerator . Cheaper and easier , and it takes up very little room in the back of the refrigerator .
You should have run the cooler horizontally so you only need one dryer at the end and you don’t need to fiddle with so many traps.
My solution... And yes, I run a plasma cutter and sandblaster occasionally.
Get yourself a roached compressor off Craigslist or FB Marketplace. I picked up a nice 26 gallon vertical unit for 20 bucks. It had wheels and everything! The compressor was one of the oilless units and it gave up the ghost as they are want to do when overused.
I removed all the compressor stuff and just use the tank. When I want to do some work with a process that requires dry air, I run the main compressor's output into this spare tank. Then, the spare tank supplies the dry-air-needing-process. The setup works quite well for how easy it was to setup. It's not perfect and in the humid summertime some moisture does get through. But. I'd say 90% of it gets removed by that first "accumulator" tank.
You could do the same thing with a propane tank or other some such holding vessel if the fabrication skills and implements are on-hand. In the future, I might put in a single U bend copper setup to catch the other 10%.
Here's my video on the topic:
ua-cam.com/video/cP3FJzGNahM/v-deo.html
Lookin good brother. Can't wait to see you first project once you get everything set up.
Nice video layout. One really big upgrade is you should add a 160psi or larger blow out valve to get more air volume and less run/fill time. These tsnks are rated for 300psi max and manufacturers keep them held back by a large amount up to 50% max capaicity to avoid any damage claims. This larger blow out valve will extend compressor life and give longer work times along with compressor switch adjustment for cut off and cut in psi ranges that work best for you.
Another solution to make the filters removable is one shark bite per side. They spin and are removable if needed. Love the overkill, just my cup of tea.
I've seen a number of these video's and most folks simply do not maximize the potential here, much in the same fashion you did. WHY in the hell did you go thru all that work to run air out of the TANK with water in the tank ???? To me that is totally wrong. You take the output of the COMPRESSOR to the dryer effectively eliminating ANY water vapor from your tank (or very small traces of it) then run the output of the tank thru your filtering system. NOW you have a completely effective pure air to your plasma cutter which cuts your consumable use to less than a 1/3 of any water vapor entering and destroying your tips. Also making a 6" tip for your drain valves of which you used exactly ZERO AND OPTED FOR (of which you installed a filtering system off each pair of lines ??? ) is a very effective way of capturing any trace water vapors collecting them and draining them. By using a T at the bottom of the second, 4th, 6th and 8th pipe you create a turbulence effect and place your drain valves under those T's. 1 drain valve per 2 pipes then add ALL your filters in line at the end and then feed your black pipe line supply. A 5 filter Arrow StageAir 1 Gal. Desiccant Dryer C7612XXL, Zinc & Aluminum Bowl, 1/2" NPT, 250 PSI FOR 441.+ You will have built a BETTER MOUSETRAP my good man. Personally I built a similar system using the same methodology I described to you with the 5 stage filtration but I also added a Derale 15300 Tube and Fin Cooler Core, off the compressor to reduce the air temp before it even hits the copper on the wall. After this installation I cut my consumables purchases on my plasma cutter by 2/3. It will pay for itself in 2.5 years. Though you did do a good job putting it together, researching before executing a plan will give ya more information and help one to execute a plan far better.
Just a tip from an ol fart that has lived life and made far more mistakes than maybe you ever have. Peace
This is awesome, you have talent god bless
Great Job! Just a question, was there a reason you didn’t go from the compressor itself, before the tank, go through the cooler and back to the tank. That way there is no water in the tank, from the tank through your regulator and to the black pipe.
I was going to ask the same question.
Because there will still be moisture when the air compresses
@@manuelsantana6339 I ran direct from the air compressor to the copper tubing dryer. It seems to work well. Is one way better than the other? Thanks.
I believe Jim Collins was asking about putting your copper pipes in an aftercooler design where the compressed hot air leaves the pump discharge port & is piped directly into the copper pipe/cooler/water seperator system, then after cooling & water droplets have been removed, put the drier air into the tank. Many people that do it that way have No water or very little water to drain out the bottom tank drain. No water in tank equals no rust, drier, high quality air exiting the tank & long safe tank life. "Full Package" air compressor systems have a fin and tube heat exchanger/aftercooler, fan cooled, & clamped onto the cage/safety shroud that recieves the hot air directly from the air pump. That's the most efficient way. Cool the hottest air down to room temperature & seperate the condensed moisture. Get a real air to air aftercooler from THE Compressor Guru, Bud Stiner (also on UA-cam) sized to your compressor's CFM flow so no restriction is created. To drier, clean, high quality air.. Cheers! Paul
@@rtj49 Yes, see my comment above. Cool the hottest air directly thru an aftercooler, moisture condenses, seperate the water droplets out, then put the drier air into the tank. Good luck, Paul
why not come strait out of the pump to air dryer then back into where the pump was plumbed in, then pull air strait from tank, that will keep moisture from forming inside the air tank thus longer life of the tank.
Good question!!! I would like to know an answers....🤔
General rule of thumb is you are drying the air for a piece of equipment/tool and as such you want the air to be as dry as possible when it hits the equipment. Adiabatic cooling can also introduce moisture so you should ideally keep the pipe the same diameter after drying the air to prevent that natural phenomenon, which doesn't happen if you dry the air before it goes to the tank, and then goes out for usage.
So many filters and dryers. I wonder how many CFM's you've lost as a result.
Should have my 45xp tomorrow! Kills me that I can’t use it until I get my air supply/filtration.lol Going with this awesome setup, so it looks like I’ve got some work to do. Thanks man!
Looks like it should do the trick!!!
I would think so. I notice a pretty good difference already in the dryness at the air nozzle
Amazing tutorial. Thanks
Is it really a good idea to have the compressor and a hose in front of an electrical panel? Just sayin.
Very informative, I saw the final result video. Are you by chance a Mechanical engineer @JDS Outdoors?
@@matthewcurtice3476 I am not
Start at the top put your inline in put your outline to the rest of it at the other side on top that way if you have any water it. Flows to the bottom
Not knowing even the first thing about plasma cutters I was wondering why you needed an air dryer. Turns out plasma cutters used compressed air. I have no idea why, but there you go. I just came here looking for an air dryer after another channel did a pretty poor job of showing how to build one.
nozzles are $30 . Wet and dirty air eat nozzles up really quick , like in hours . With my air drier nozzles last so long ,you can cut with almost no cost
Nice 4 wheeler
Thank you that thing is amazing
Alright, parts ordered. I don’t know how the hell you built yours for $80 lol I guess if I’d of spent some more time sourcing parts, I could have gotten it a little lower, but I’m at around $450 including parts that you already had. So about $300 in just the copper and filter run. The Type L copper tubing was $100+ by itself. Here’s what my setup is going to be:
Air compressor is a Dewalt 60 gallon, 155 psi, 11.5 cfm compressor. I’m going with 4 drops with the copper too, but the first won’t have a filter or separator. I’m thinking about maybe setting up a tub that it’ll sit in that I can add water to so that it’ll help condense the air. Then the second and third with have manual drain filters, and the forth a filter/separator/regulator combo. At the back of the plasma machine will be a second regulator and a motor guard M60 filter. I’m also installing another outtake fan in the shop, and considering installing it behind the copper to get more air moving across it. If that doesn’t dry the air, I don’t know what to do lol
I’m also Teeing it off at the end of the copper run, and reducing it to 1/2”. One will go to the plasma cutter and the other will be for other pneumatic tools.
Thanks again for the idea man, but my wallet hates you.
I'm guessing its because most building supplies are through the roof right now.
JDS Outdoors true. Given that most decent air dryers are $1k+, I’m not complaining lol it’ll be a fun build and I honestly think it’ll do just as well of a job. At least a better job than what a $300 dryer would do. Now I’m just curious to see how much CFM I lose. The Hypertherm 45xp only requires 6 cfm, so I should have plenty left.
@@smokiesleather my 60 gal if I recall is 9.8cfm and through this and my on tank dryer my 45 doesn't notice or skip a beat
JDS Outdoors good deal man. How much moisture, if any, is your 45 still catching? Mines actually 60 gallon. Not sure why I was thinking 80.
JDS Outdoors other than the quick connect coming off the motor guard, I believe I’m finished! i.imgur.com/sLvIEUi.jpg
Wait, you hooked that up to the outlet of the tank? You should put it between the compressor and the tank. That way you can draw down the tank without constriction.
In think you should of put valves at your copper drop points to release collected water, then go to the dryers at the end of the the copper run.
Each drop has a drain even some auto drops
Great Video!
I’ve heard lots of complaints in the review section from Amazon about the air dryers filters that you have listed
you’ve had them for two years now, have you had any reliability issues?
I’ve also read of the reviews that you can’t buy replacement filters.
Hundreds of hours of airflow through them and zero complaints from me. They work great for me. What are the complaints on them?
What about the water on tank that can cause rust inside the tank? What do you think about after cooler setup?
Good job! I'm thinking of building a similar setup at my shop. I've seen people use copper tubing in a coil design. I think I like yours better! How's it holding up?
Held up great but check out the 1 year review video on it for what I'd do differently
What diameter and type of pipe did you use?? I need to do this for the exact reason you did it for. Would like to get an idea how much cost in materials (minus the filters)
Sorry, just got to the part in the video where you said you will tell all that info at the end of the video. Thanks!
Wouldn’t this be better used between the compressor and the tank? After a while the air already cools down in the tank and condenses leaving the air not being able to condense down much more being used with air temp
I use something different between the compressor and tank
@@JDSOutdoors what do you use before the tank?
@@ShortyzProductionz a transmission cooler and an auto drop moisture trap
@@JDSOutdoors awesome! Do you ever get any moisture out of the copper pipes with the cooler before the tank?
@@ShortyzProductionz not a drop. My in tank moisture has dropped from a few ounces every few days to a few ounces a month.
Do you use this system with that pot blaster? I need to buy or make a dryer like this because I keep getting moisture probs. 10hp compressor
Looks good 👍
Would pex work for cost savings?
Copper is a better heat sync but pex and a transmission cooler with a fan works better.
@@JDSOutdoors could you design to have the bottom on a slope so only needing one release?
@@laserfalcon slope won't matter
Looks great, but how has it been working since you installed it?
Working awesome super dry air. No more moisture spitting out of tools at all
@@JDSOutdoors Thanks! i'm going to try it!
I just bought one 2 days ago
Was there a specific reason you chose 4ft for the vertical sections? Was it strictly for heat dissipation? Or if I were to, say, replicate your design, should I have any reason to avoid going with a more compact setup?
Was for heat distribution. You can absolutely go smaller.
@@JDSOutdoors I'm trying to find the pipe threader tool you used.. where'd you get that at? Thanks
@@timsully8054 the pipe cutter? The threaded ends were soldered on
@@JDSOutdoors oh ok I didn't realize you soldered on the threaded ends. I guess what I saw in your video was you using a pipe brush
What brand dryer and separators did you use and where did you buy em? Cost. Im goung to make one. Thx
Links are un the description for em
Hey bud!
Great video.
I'm about to build one of these. Can I ask, did you use the blue or red copper? The thinner inside diameter will move the air a little better but more likely to fail sooner then the smaller inside diameter of the thicker pipe. Any suggestions? This is kind of new to me.
Thanks brother!
:)
Just saw this I apologize I went with the thicker wall pipe
JDS Outdoors no worries!
Thanks!
:)
@@jasonenz4238 you want to go with the thin wall copper for better heat exchange to cool the air quicker.
@@ChrisAndolina too thin and it'll crack or explode
@@cali_cal 1/2” thin wall copper (type m) is rated for 850 psi.
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. However, $80 for the whole thing? It would seem that the dryers and filters alone would have added up to more than $80. Adding in the tubing and fittings would have brought it even higher. Or am I wrong?
I thought the same exact thing, I would wonder how efficient the "cheapest filters/dryers you can find" actually are on top of how long before you are changing filters in these items? Also, how much of a CFM loss did he create here by adding multiple restrictions? The end doesn't justify the means in my book...
I keep seeing this copper pipe and all those $150 double dryer things... think yall waste $ ....I work on large yachts, the painter has it down with a simple solution.....if your pushing 150 lbs just use 100 to 150 ft of 1" PVC (sch40 good to 270 lbs, if above 75 degrees might go to 215 bursts at 1450) and use a Motor Guard filter. even better the filters are cheap, sounds weird but just use a roll of toilet paper and rip off about 20 layers and use that in the filter..... Think about this....the guys been doing this for well over 30 years, using high end ( AwlGrip) paint spraying 1 or 2 million dollar yachts no problems !!! the filter case is $80 on Amazon, 1" PVC is less than by an easy 80%... you can use 3/4" pvc just ran a little more. has a just less than 10% more pressure and burst factor. My opinion is just too much hype over this whole thing, the yacht paint is no fool and a smart man and well quality is his key to success.
That’s awesome! How much did you have in that set up
About 80 bucks
JDS Outdoors that’s a good savings right there
@@smoovefishing 80 bucks without the 4 filters
I want to save money but cant cut corners cause when i do then fisheye and water seem to ruin paint jobs
Krikey that has to be the smallest diameter copper tubing used for air drying that I have ever seen.Way too small!!!
And put a 1/2 inch separator at end of coil before air enters tank,, all water happens when 200 degree air hits much cooler tank,,so cool the air!!! But don't restrict it with to small of tubing,,,use 1/2 inch are greater.
Do you use 1/2 inch cooper?
@@minkbandem8093 yes same size as line between compressor and tank now,,,never go smaller
@@georgespangler1517 do you have any issue so far when you use 1/2 inch?
Do you use type L 1/2 inch copper?
@@minkbandem8093mine is fine for years and I don't get much water since I installed it,, water comes from the hot compressed air entering the cooler tank,,,cool the air and problem solved
@@minkbandem8093 make sure to leave relieve valve before tank,,that's the hissing sound when compressor shuts off,,,it will hiss longer with more pipe to drain to take back pressure off compressor head for startup
so, I gotta buy a crap ton of copper tubing and elbows, traps, filters....tools for cutting copper so I dont bend it while cutting, a propane torch kit and other crap for "sweating" the copper? I don't see how this is cheaper than just buying a dryer outright. I think this video is assuming that the viewer has everything already except the copper tubing and the traps.
This is still cheaper and works better then the separators. Sure you can buy a refrigerated air cooler but they are $400-$500 + shipping and tax...with a higher electric bill every month.
You can add an after cooler and a water trap between the pump and the tank, that will cut out most of the water before it even reaches the tank. Plus, the air going into the tank will be around 200° cooler.
For painting, I can’t afford a single drop of water to come through the line.
Lmao you dont have a torch to solider?!? Thats like shop tool basics. Plus yes it much cheaper to spend an hour putting together some fittings than buying an expensive ass dryer. This method works very well and is used in factories. Only they run the pies on long runs on a angle and the water condenses at the bottom and runs to a drain
Did anyone ever use refrigeration copper y bends instead of 90s and tees to make a compressor air dryer just wondering if it would work
Not trying to offend you,, but put the 1/2 coil between compressor and tank and you won't have water,,many use transmission cooler but most are 3/8 tubes and cause restriction that hurts compressor,,,I couldn't believe the difference, 200 degrees entering tubing and 120 leaving it and no more water.
How much pressure can copper pipe withstand?
No idea but way more than 150psi
What size copper do you use buddy?
What thickness of copper?
I was about to ask this
Too many Chinese filters... Just go no eBay and get a used SMC AMG Water Separator that removes 99% and have a AMD Mist/Filter Separator behind it removing the fine stuff. That's all you need.
Are you nervous about draining air dryers near electrical outlets?
Na
Why not just box in your compressor insulate the walls and install air conditioner this should keep everything cold before it leaves the air compressor
Paie attention to the pressure.
can this be used to paint cars
Yes however I would also add a cooler between the pump and tank with an auto drop for even dryer air
80 bucks 2 years ago 200 bucks in 2023 lol
You'll be using pvc today an air dryer is 600 bucks cooper is too too expensive
Does anyone own a workbench on UA-cam?
$80??
Not anymore
too many tubes and too thin.
Orrrrrrr just get a proper refrigerated air dryer that works far better than any passive system you can come up with...
How about no
@@JDSOutdoors Meh, your loss. Some random hick with zero understanding of thermodynamics making an "air dryer" is hilarious to me.
Nice setup,,but overkill and wrong approach,,, been there,,,, best way is too cool air before it enters compressor tank,, that's where condensation forms,,, l used a 1/2 copper coil between compressor and tank,, dropped my air temperature 80 degrees and solved all my moisture problems,, stop the moisture before it leaves tank and problem solved, l wouldn't steer you wrong,,,try it,,,only cost me 40 dollars.
What the hell!!! Why all the separators???? Just use drain valves,,,lol l can't help laughing at this waste of money.
I can’t help laughing at your face, you look like colonel sanders became a tweeker
@@acidsurfers not normal to be jealous of another man's looks,, laugh all you like,but ask your lady what she thinks of my picture,,lol.you are me her choice,lol