Avesome video been looking for these bigger filter containers locally but no luck. Wouldn't be the first tank more effective if you reverse it's flow too? Bernoulli's principle and dew point control by volume change from small fast flow into wider higher pressure in the container should strip some water alone I think. Not sure tho.
Great video. I have one of those arriving today. While stumbling around amazon, looking for more air drop blocks for my Rapidair rig, I discovered something. Look up sintered bronze muffler. The perfect solution for both of your tube ends. No mods needed.
What sort of pressure are you pushing thru those canisters? In my current mindset, my plan is that the desiccant dryer will only ever see gun pressure, not the full system pressure. That, and I'm still probably going to contain them incase of catastrophic failure.
That's my plan as well. Regulate it right after my compressor, then run thru a four drop up/down dryer/manifold(called the UDR-4000, for "uppy downy rig", then the rest of the filtering, then regulated for the spray gun, with that line going thru the modded water filter/desiccant Rig. We're calling that one the explodeomatic. I'm sure it will be fine at gun pressure, but it's still going to live in a box
nice,,can you tellus howmany pressure bein lost from source(compressor)till the end,,for example plasma cutter?'? I have original 2 festo water trap and from compressor to plasma cutter I m loosing more than 2 bar,,must raising on 9 bar compressor to have 6.2 on plasma cutter,,always lighting low pressure
"Impact" does not affect the dew point unsess the speed of the air is fast enough to create enough friction to heat the air but that would raise the dew point. The steel wool or the windshield or your car removes heat from the air and lowers the dew point thus causes condensation (not the impact). The only time the water can cause gain or loss of energy is with a change in State, everapation, sublimation or the other way gas to liquid etc. that occurs because of the steel wool carrying away heat from the air with equal change in dew point then condensation occurs due to change in temp. the ideal way is exactly what occurs in the storage tank but only initially and that is the cooling effecy of the steel tank and also , initially the expansion into the tank and drop in partial pressure. However as the tank fills and there is no longer much of a pressure drop the only effect in the cooling from the tank. If you could continue the pressure drop with expansion but difficult to do because of the commulication of all the areas with equal pressure all thru the system to alter that you would need an expansion valve type system to maintain the pressure separation from the air behind but then you would have an analogous system to an Air-Conditioner.
The way to remove moisture is to cool it before it enters the tank from compressor and easily done,,,I did it by adding a 1/2 inch roll of coil copper tubing between compressor and tank,,, dropped my high 80 degrees and I have very little water in my tank now,,, and I never use plastic it becomes very brittle with time and can become like scratnel when it blows apart..
I do tend to go on, the expansion valve type system would be great but you would need to have continuous consumption of the now dry air as storage would be difficult to do cuz you would tremendous amount of storage space because of the now deceased pressure thus you would need to re-compress the dry air then store it. Very costly and overkill. This is the exact same as an air conditioned system but using air not freon or ammonia gas but again not a recycled system so you run into the problem I discussed earlier that is the storage of the now expanded "dry" air but now loss of pressure thus the need for re-compresion. Nothing requiring the change of state or energy input is free. Your way , and a good way, as i am not knocking you setup, is using some of the energy from compression and giving up heat to the steel wool (which needs to be removed somehow or the system stops working) thus lowering the dew point and causing condensation. Man thats a long winded way to say that (lots left out I know).
Mark Rigney good info..... so if I could chill the air lines a bit more (more length in the 72 f shop) before it hits those cold steel mesh pads, I may get even more water broken out before the desiccant? Man I’m gonna do it, because I am baking more beans than a Mexican Restaurant! Lol! Thanks for you comment.... appreciate it!
Also I am sorry not trying to seem critical as I am sure it appears. I am just working on my own system and (obviously) very anal, and expressing my own ideas I have worked thru from refrigerated type to the passive types such as yours. My other point though not so obvious is that these passive systems will not work well for continuous use as the heat taken from the air to lower the dew point has to be removed somehow. passive conduction is fine in occasional use systems but for continuous use systems you need refrigerated systems to carry away the heat or llarge amounts of silica beads which need to be dried (energy use) and recycled. Sorry I will stop.
Thanks for your question. I haven’t seen any kits available, I just use 20” Pentair water filter housings to hold the media. Be careful, these housings are only rated at 125 psi! Being a guitar builder (wood/paint shop), I keep my pressure at about 100 psi in the shop.
@@VCustomShop No, not explained, pointed out, but not explained. You're not the only person who has built one of these and run the flow backwards. But not one has been able to explain why they choose to run a subsystem, that was designed by an engineer and constructed with labels for in and out, backwards.
Ahhh, I just reviewed..... you are correct, I skipped all of my logic for the reverse flow. I had 2 main thoughts in mind, the first and primary reason was that I wanted gravity in my favor as far as water was concerned. The wettest beads on the bottom, and the moisture would tend to collect there and hyper saturate the bottom beads without contaminating any fresh beads below it. And the other one (not as important) was it didn’t want to hit those tiny little beads up top with an in rush of air to get the peculating and rattling (and sand blasting) in the canister. For the most part, it works very well...... when I change the beads the top 2/3rds come out relatively dry (although color changed), but the bottom 3rd is wet and the beads tend to stick to the walls and need to be wiped out with a paper towel. The engineers did great as far as water filtration...... I would not change a thing...... but this is a bit different! Thanks again for watching, Mark
Paul it's not difficult, the system is very simple. Using the in/out "inverted" mimics what actual (and very expensive) compressed air dessicant units do, that is why people do that. The "engineers" that design these, do not have compressed air in mind, so their label is irrelevant (when filtering water, filters cartridges are built to filter in the direction of the arrows, but this is a completely different application).
I wonder if putting your beads inside a pillowcase (or similar) and leaving them in the clothes dryer would work. I'm looking for an alternative to using the microwave to dry mine.
Sorry so slow...... Pentair Standard housings are rated up to 125 psi, I mis-spoke in the video...... Here is a link to the Pentair housing www.espwaterproducts.com/content/Pentek_Standard_Housings_Spec_Sheet.pdf
I bake them about every 6-8 weeks in the winter months and about 3 weeks in the summer. I am in Florida and the compressor is basically outside as far as temp goes. It seems to not like to be baked more than 3 times before the color won't snap back, but it is cheap enough on Amazon to replace it as needed.
Hello Mark, I am not finding these 20" filters that have the 150lbs rating. Can you suggest your manufacturer and supplier. I'd like to duplicate... Thank you love your video!!!
Pentair Standard housings are rated up to 125 psi, I mis-spoke in the video...... Here is a link to the Pentair housing www.espwaterproducts.com/content/Pentek_Standard_Housings_Spec_Sheet.pdf
Pentair Standard housings are rated up to 125 psi, I mis-spoke in the video...... Here is a link to the Pentair housing www.espwaterproducts.com/content/Pentek_Standard_Housings_Spec_Sheet.pdf
Wow! Great video. Looks like you have made the exact setup that I would like to have for my plasma table. Dry air is very important. Could you provide me with some info on where to buy and what model you used for the clear canister things?
Sorry so slow in response..... Pentair Standard housings are rated up to 125 psi, I mis-spoke in the video...... Here is a link to the Pentair housing www.espwaterproducts.com/content/Pentek_Standard_Housings_Spec_Sheet.pdf
That only happens if you don't have any filter downstream. If using sensitive devices, you will surely have another stage of filtering to protect them (dessicant or not, it doesn't matter)
I’m using a metal colander to dry the desiccant beads. Working well.
Avesome video been looking for these bigger filter containers locally but no luck.
Wouldn't be the first tank more effective if you reverse it's flow too?
Bernoulli's principle and dew point control by volume change from small fast flow into wider higher pressure in the container should strip some water alone I think.
Not sure tho.
Thanks so much! Never thought about reversing the first one too...... but that makes sense! I will look into that...... thanks!
Great video. I have one of those arriving today. While stumbling around amazon, looking for more air drop blocks for my Rapidair rig, I discovered something. Look up sintered bronze muffler. The perfect solution for both of your tube ends. No mods needed.
Thanks! Great idea!
What sort of pressure are you pushing thru those canisters? In my current mindset, my plan is that the desiccant dryer will only ever see gun pressure, not the full system pressure. That, and I'm still probably going to contain them incase of catastrophic failure.
@@leesbassment6393 I have the entire system regulated down to 75 psi. I basically use palm sanders and paint guns..... so it works out good for me!
That's my plan as well. Regulate it right after my compressor, then run thru a four drop up/down dryer/manifold(called the UDR-4000, for "uppy downy rig", then the rest of the filtering, then regulated for the spray gun, with that line going thru the modded water filter/desiccant Rig. We're calling that one the explodeomatic. I'm sure it will be fine at gun pressure, but it's still going to live in a box
nice,,can you tellus howmany pressure bein lost from source(compressor)till the end,,for example plasma cutter?'? I have original 2 festo water trap and from compressor to plasma cutter I m loosing more than 2 bar,,must raising on 9 bar compressor to have 6.2 on plasma cutter,,always lighting low pressure
"Impact" does not affect the dew point unsess the speed of the air is fast enough to create enough friction to heat the air but that would raise the dew point. The steel wool or the windshield or your car removes heat from the air and lowers the dew point thus causes condensation (not the impact). The only time the water can cause gain or loss of energy is with a change in State, everapation, sublimation or the other way gas to liquid etc. that occurs because of the steel wool carrying away heat from the air with equal change in dew point then condensation occurs due to change in temp. the ideal way is exactly what occurs in the storage tank but only initially and that is the cooling effecy of the steel tank and also , initially the expansion into the tank and drop in partial pressure. However as the tank fills and there is no longer much of a pressure drop the only effect in the cooling from the tank. If you could continue the pressure drop with expansion but difficult to do because of the commulication of all the areas with equal pressure all thru the system to alter that you would need an expansion valve type system to maintain the pressure separation from the air behind but then you would have an analogous system to an Air-Conditioner.
do you have a parts list for all of this? that would be awesome if you could share! thanks :)
The way to remove moisture is to cool it before it enters the tank from compressor and easily done,,,I did it by adding a 1/2 inch roll of coil copper tubing between compressor and tank,,, dropped my high 80 degrees and I have very little water in my tank now,,, and I never use plastic it becomes very brittle with time and can become like scratnel when it blows apart..
Thanks for the info
Awesome!
I am going to make one for my first attempt at spraying a car
I do tend to go on, the expansion valve type system would be great but you would need to have continuous consumption of the now dry air as storage would be difficult to do cuz you would tremendous amount of storage space because of the now deceased pressure thus you would need to re-compress the dry air then store it. Very costly and overkill. This is the exact same as an air conditioned system but using air not freon or ammonia gas but again not a recycled system so you run into the problem I discussed earlier that is the storage of the now expanded "dry" air but now loss of pressure thus the need for re-compresion. Nothing requiring the change of state or energy input is free. Your way , and a good way, as i am not knocking you setup, is using some of the energy from compression and giving up heat to the steel wool (which needs to be removed somehow or the system stops working) thus lowering the dew point and causing condensation. Man thats a long winded way to say that (lots left out I know).
Mark Rigney good info..... so if I could chill the air lines a bit more (more length in the 72 f shop) before it hits those cold steel mesh pads, I may get even more water broken out before the desiccant? Man I’m gonna do it, because I am baking more beans than a Mexican Restaurant! Lol! Thanks for you comment.... appreciate it!
can you do a short video on how you installed your impact canister drain valve
I will try to get one done!
@@VCustomShop Thanks
Great Job man!
Daniel Phelan Thanks!
It's called a slip by 1/2" or 3/4" MIP Adapter.
Yeah, that's what it's called! Lol.... 3/4 slip by MIP Adapter. Thanks!
Also I am sorry not trying to seem critical as I am sure it appears. I am just working on my own system and (obviously) very anal, and expressing my own ideas I have worked thru from refrigerated type to the passive types such as yours. My other point though not so obvious is that these passive systems will not work well for continuous use as the heat taken from the air to lower the dew point has to be removed somehow. passive conduction is fine in occasional use systems but for continuous use systems you need refrigerated systems to carry away the heat or llarge amounts of silica beads which need to be dried (energy use) and recycled. Sorry I will stop.
where do you get these big descendant body kits?
Thanks for your question. I haven’t seen any kits available, I just use 20” Pentair water filter housings to hold the media. Be careful, these housings are only rated at 125 psi! Being a guitar builder (wood/paint shop), I keep my pressure at about 100 psi in the shop.
How large of a space are you servicing and what is the temperature?
The wood shop is about 40x50, climate controlled 70-75 degrees 50% humidity year round.
What is with all the backwards flow users?
Check video @ 4:15 reverse flow explained,
Thanks for watching!
@@VCustomShop No, not explained, pointed out, but not explained.
You're not the only person who has built one of these and run the flow backwards. But not one has been able to explain why they choose to run a subsystem, that was designed by an engineer and constructed with labels for in and out, backwards.
Ahhh, I just reviewed..... you are correct, I skipped all of my logic for the reverse flow. I had 2 main thoughts in mind, the first and primary reason was that I wanted gravity in my favor as far as water was concerned. The wettest beads on the bottom, and the moisture would tend to collect there and hyper saturate the bottom beads without contaminating any fresh beads below it. And the other one (not as important) was it didn’t want to hit those tiny little beads up top with an in rush of air to get the peculating and rattling (and sand blasting) in the canister. For the most part, it works very well...... when I change the beads the top 2/3rds come out relatively dry (although color changed), but the bottom 3rd is wet and the beads tend to stick to the walls and need to be wiped out with a paper towel. The engineers did great as far as water filtration...... I would not change a thing...... but this is a bit different! Thanks again for watching, Mark
Paul it's not difficult, the system is very simple. Using the in/out "inverted" mimics what actual (and very expensive) compressed air dessicant units do, that is why people do that. The "engineers" that design these, do not have compressed air in mind, so their label is irrelevant (when filtering water, filters cartridges are built to filter in the direction of the arrows, but this is a completely different application).
I wonder if putting your beads inside a pillowcase (or similar) and leaving them in the clothes dryer would work. I'm looking for an alternative to using the microwave to dry mine.
Just put them in the regular oven...
no need to do any of this,, put valves on both sides and a schrader to pull a vacuum with a smal hvac pump, takes very little time and effort,,,
you will get rust particles going into your tools not a good idea way not use foam as your filter ?
I am getting no rust, no water, no particles....... and it is as dry as a popcorn fart! Why would you think that I would get rust particles?
@@VCustomShop i will take your word for that ?
Where would the rust come from? The tank?
I have no rust..... I think the orange colored beads are what started the rust topic, now I am using clear and blue beads.
great video, Thank you, can you tell me manufacturer and model of the filter media holders?
Sorry so slow...... Pentair Standard housings are rated up to 125 psi, I mis-spoke in the video...... Here is a link to the Pentair housing www.espwaterproducts.com/content/Pentek_Standard_Housings_Spec_Sheet.pdf
How often do you have to change / dry the desiccant?
I bake them about every 6-8 weeks in the winter months and about 3 weeks in the summer. I am in Florida and the compressor is basically outside as far as temp goes. It seems to not like to be baked more than 3 times before the color won't snap back, but it is cheap enough on Amazon to replace it as needed.
Hello Mark, I am not finding these 20" filters that have the 150lbs rating. Can you suggest your manufacturer and supplier. I'd like to duplicate... Thank you love your video!!!
Pentair Standard housings are rated up to 125 psi, I mis-spoke in the video...... Here is a link to the Pentair housing www.espwaterproducts.com/content/Pentek_Standard_Housings_Spec_Sheet.pdf
Where did you get the water filters ?
Pentair Standard housings are rated up to 125 psi, I mis-spoke in the video...... Here is a link to the Pentair housing www.espwaterproducts.com/content/Pentek_Standard_Housings_Spec_Sheet.pdf
Wow! Great video. Looks like you have made the exact setup that I would like to have for my plasma table. Dry air is very important. Could you provide me with some info on where to buy and what model you used for the clear canister things?
Sorry so slow in response..... Pentair Standard housings are rated up to 125 psi, I mis-spoke in the video...... Here is a link to the Pentair housing www.espwaterproducts.com/content/Pentek_Standard_Housings_Spec_Sheet.pdf
And desicant pellets break down and do damage to tools and paint jobs.
That only happens if you don't have any filter downstream. If using sensitive devices, you will surely have another stage of filtering to protect them (dessicant or not, it doesn't matter)