Beautiful work & lots of copper & soldering work! However, the most efficient heat exchanger is a tube & fin aftercooler like a Derale #15300 or even a new or used automotive A/C condenser. The surface area for heat exchange in the tube & fin design is mind boggling compared to the tube surface area. Duct & seal a fan to blow or suck thru the fins & it's unbeatable! The most efficient way possible is to pipe the hot air directly from the compressor pump outlet into the tube & fin, fan cooled "aftercooler", then into a water seperator, then into a tank. No more water in your tank! The best hobby sized system I've ever seen was designed & built by an engineer (UA-cam) Doug Kronemeyer, a 3 part video set (DIY#9) chocked full of engineering logic & knowledge! His system is so good it rivals the performance of a hi dollar refrigerated air drier! And it is a passive system except for the fans! Give it a look, you will be impressed! Also a shout out to Bud Stiner, THE Compressor Guru (UA-cam) for DIY compressor knowledge, parts & service! Paul from S. Central Tx.
I think there's a simpler 5 gal bucket of water with a coil of copper pipe, then an auto drain valve in the bottom of bucket which drains any water into the bucket. Just notch lid and keep filled with water...pretty easy
A little tip for when applying PTFE tape, turn the reel around the other way when wrapping it around the fitting. That way you don’t constantly have excess.
Thank you! Hot air from the compressor creates a lot of water. Especially when I sandblast for long periods of time and compressor gets very hot. It's pretty important to prevent that water to get to your tools, paint, blasting media etc. As air gets into copper pipes it cools down and water by gravity travel down those "legs" with valves and collects there. Every now and then I can crack open those valves and remove that water. And at the end of pipes I got additional water filter that should catch any water that doesnt get trapped by those copper legs. I also got additional filter at my sandblasting cabinets and small one on my paint sprayer.
The way the compressor works, you can't keep inside of the tank dry. There just must be condensation inside. Main goal is to extract that water before it gets to tools.
Thank you! I honestly dont remember... it was like 5-6 Euro per meter for 12 meters if I remember correctly and not sure how much for all the fittings. It all depends on where you live. Prices of copper have gone up since then here.
Connected them as shown in the video. Used a side plug on the big one a directly connected to the smaller one. Only big one is working and filling both tank at the same time.
I keep seeing this copper pipe and all those $150 double dryer things... think yall waste $ ....I work on large yachts, the painter has it down with a simple solution.....if your pushing 150 lbs just use 100 to 150 ft of 1" PVC (sch40 good to 270 lbs, if above 75 degrees might go to 215 bursts at 1450) and use a Motor Guard filter. even better the filters are cheap, sounds weird but just use a roll of toilet paper and rip off about 20 layers and use that in the filter..... Think about this....the guys been doing this for well over 30 years, using high end ( AwlGrip) paint spraying 1 or 2 million dollar yachts no problems !!! the filter case is $80 on Amazon, 1" PVC is less than by an easy 80%... you can use 3/4" pvc just ran a little more. has a just less than 10% more pressure and burst factor. My opinion is just too much hype over this whole thing, the yacht paint is no fool and a smart man and well quality is his key to success.
Beautiful work & lots of copper & soldering work! However, the most efficient heat exchanger is a tube & fin aftercooler like a Derale #15300 or even a new or used automotive A/C condenser. The surface area for heat exchange in the tube & fin design is mind boggling compared to the tube surface area. Duct & seal a fan to blow or suck thru the fins & it's unbeatable! The most efficient way possible is to pipe the hot air directly from the compressor pump outlet into the tube & fin, fan cooled "aftercooler", then into a water seperator, then into a tank. No more water in your tank! The best hobby sized system I've ever seen was designed & built by an engineer (UA-cam) Doug Kronemeyer, a 3 part video set (DIY#9) chocked full of engineering logic & knowledge! His system is so good it rivals the performance of a hi dollar refrigerated air drier! And it is a passive system except for the fans! Give it a look, you will be impressed!
Also a shout out to Bud Stiner, THE Compressor Guru (UA-cam) for DIY compressor knowledge, parts & service! Paul from S. Central Tx.
Thank you Paul! Will definitely check it out!
I think there's a simpler 5 gal bucket of water with a coil of copper pipe, then an auto drain valve in the bottom of bucket which drains any water into the bucket. Just notch lid and keep filled with water...pretty easy
A little tip for when applying PTFE tape, turn the reel around the other way when wrapping it around the fitting. That way you don’t constantly have excess.
Thanks!
Excellent job! I will build one of these too! Very inspirational, thank you!
Thank you for watching, brother!
Good stuff! That’s a nice setup. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for watching!
Great job 👍
Thank you!
Very nice!!
Thank you!
Great setup, and well executed. Although you now need to make the drainage system from the water traps :D.
I’m only joking, good job!
Thank you, Chris!
Very educative video! Can you tell me what the purpose of all the loops are and why you have three valves at the bottom?
Thank you! Hot air from the compressor creates a lot of water. Especially when I sandblast for long periods of time and compressor gets very hot. It's pretty important to prevent that water to get to your tools, paint, blasting media etc. As air gets into copper pipes it cools down and water by gravity travel down those "legs" with valves and collects there. Every now and then I can crack open those valves and remove that water. And at the end of pipes I got additional water filter that should catch any water that doesnt get trapped by those copper legs. I also got additional filter at my sandblasting cabinets and small one on my paint sprayer.
where did you find those 90 degree bends? all the ones I see at HD are the short 90's not the longer sweep ones like you have?
Just my local hardware store. I live in Europe so pipe designs might be somewhat different
Wow richtig geil gemacht Daumen hoch da lasse ❤️⭐👍
Thank you!
Wouldn't it be better to have the air dryer before the tank so that you keep the inside of the tank dry, so that you get no rust in the tank.
The way the compressor works, you can't keep inside of the tank dry. There just must be condensation inside. Main goal is to extract that water before it gets to tools.
Don't agree, I have got mine before the tank and I can blow the water off through the taps before it enters the tank.@@RestorationApprentice
So where does output of small tank go to?
They are directly connected. When the big one is on it's filling the smaller one too so it all acts as one big tank
Very well done sir. If you don't mind, how much money do you have tied up in that copper system? Thumbs up on your video bud. 👍
Thank you! I honestly dont remember... it was like 5-6 Euro per meter for 12 meters if I remember correctly and not sure how much for all the fittings. It all depends on where you live. Prices of copper have gone up since then here.
@@RestorationApprentice Thank you for the reply and the info buddy.
How are the two compressors connected? Didnt you need NRVs?
Connected them as shown in the video. Used a side plug on the big one a directly connected to the smaller one. Only big one is working and filling both tank at the same time.
also what kind of flux are you using?
I honestly don't remeber... This was some time ago. But I still got it in the garage somewhere. If I find it, i'll let you know.
How thick is the pipe for the watertrap ?
It's 18mm.
@@RestorationApprentice 18mm for the thickness ? Or the outside diameter ?
Nice setup btw
Oh, you're asking how thick is the copper.... I'm not sure. 18mm is the diameter of the pipe. Thank you for watching!
@@RestorationApprentice ok thx for the information mate
Really nice. What’s the length of your long pipes.
Thanks! Around 10 meters.
I keep seeing this copper pipe and all those $150 double dryer things... think yall waste $ ....I work on large yachts, the painter has it down with a simple solution.....if your pushing 150 lbs just use 100 to 150 ft of 1" PVC (sch40 good to 270 lbs, if above 75 degrees might go to 215 bursts at 1450) and use a Motor Guard filter. even better the filters are cheap, sounds weird but just use a roll of toilet paper and rip off about 20 layers and use that in the filter..... Think about this....the guys been doing this for well over 30 years, using high end ( AwlGrip) paint spraying 1 or 2 million dollar yachts no problems !!! the filter case is $80 on Amazon, 1" PVC is less than by an easy 80%... you can use 3/4" pvc just ran a little more. has a just less than 10% more pressure and burst factor. My opinion is just too much hype over this whole thing, the yacht paint is no fool and a smart man and well quality is his key to success.
Thank you for the advice.
What motor guard filter? you mean a filter housing?
Plastic pipe goes brittle over time, not a good idea for pressure.