SWINGING LEADS MULTI-PITCH TRANSITION

Swapping leads on a multi-pitch route can be speedy if you take into account certain truths... 1)your partner is already on belay in the device. There is no reason to remove their rope once they are attached to the anchor. Simply move it to your belay loop, only after they have cloved into the anchor. 2) They are already on top of the pile, so no need to flip, & 3) They should have most of the rack organized on their harness from the previous pitch. *Remember to always double check your system before unlocking any critical links!!!

[@andrewyi6671]

That's the slickest, most efficient belay transition I've seen for swinging leads. Thanks!

[@CodyBradford]

Cheers, my friend!

[@TheSubieFan]

Miss you cody. 😔

[@samhparker]

These videos are amazing. Keep the content coming man! Looking forward to using this during my summer working at the City and Castle Rock.

[@CodyBradford]

Thanks so much for the kind words, my friend! I hope they prove useful.

[@testboga5991]

RIP Cody

[@shcottam]

Yo great info

[@bhgraf08]

Rip Cody

[@ptibilly7]

Hello,
I don’t really get the use of the catastrophe knot here because your second is clove hitched and when you detached the atc if she falls it won’t stop anything. Could you get into details ? Thank you !

[@dragonfire23141]

He tied that know so that he could go hands free before she clove hitched, and while she did that he prepped the rack the transfer. Then he switches the belay to he harness and removes the clove (still hands free from the catastrophe knot) they he can remove the knot and she can climb. It's all about speed while keeping the safety.

[@MrAndypf]

ATC in guide mode can fail while clove hitching. If you get one strand through the biner and fall the rope won’t pinch since it’s through your carabiner so you need the knot before you tie in with the clove.

[@ptibilly7]

@@MrAndypf Ok makes sense ! But it on't happen when you are using two ropes as you would do in most multipitch climbs

[@Uri18]

​@@ptibilly7depends o where you are and what type of multipitch you are climbing. In Mexico the most climbed multipitch routes are bolted and everyone uses a single rope

[@cohenbenedek5913]

@@dragonfire23141 Wouldn't you want to move the knot lower down on the brake strand so when they start climbing the belayer won't lose control if there is a factor 2 fall?

[@willemdhaeseleer87]

Is there ever a scenario where you would not want a redirect of the anchor when leading after a follow ?

[@timonix2]

Sometimes you remove it after the first couple of pieces have been placed. To reduce rope drag. But there is rarely a good reason to not place the redirect.

[@addsy6396]

Thumbs up as far as the Information is concerned. It was very useful. However, videos should really never be shot in portrait...

[@CodyBradford]

Agreed. Thank you! These early videos were for my instagram (@thecodybradford) and not for UA-cam. My current(ish) videos are in done in landscape! Hard when all you have is an iPhone! Cheers.

[@addsy6396]

@@CodyBradford Awesome. Suscribed!

[@vlaaady]

Thanks! Was your redirect back clipped? Probably not critical since it is a locker.

[@andrewdineen2387]

Good spot @vlaaady , I think you're right, but not critical as it's a locker. Unfortunately, this exceptionally knowledgeable teacher/guide is no longer with us. He is missed, even but those that never met him.