Ways To Use Bolted Anchors
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- There exists a variety of styles of bolted anchors, and where we clip and ways we utilize these anchors can make or break our fun and efficiency. This video will give you a sense of how to best attach ourselves to these anchors.
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RIP Cody your spirit lives on in these videos.
RIP Cody...We Love You
I used to love watching all of Cody's content. A magic guy! It's hard to watch it now. I hope all his friends out there are holding up okay.
What happened ?
@@Bsillest271 better off to Google it than for me to re-post
Why so cryptic?
@@lynngordon2364 because I don't have all the details, I don't have time to find all the details and I don't have a link to an accurate representation, so I don't want to attempt to tell half a story. He isn't alive any more.
@@andrewdineen2387 I'm sorry to learn this. So tragic. I wish I could tell him how much I enjoyed his videos
Thank you sir. Rest in peace
I’m pumped you are gonna be making UA-cam vids. Your instagram hands on short vids are excellent.
Houston thank you so much, my friend!
yeah that etiquette and upkeep bit super useful , everyone I've met climbing has just been awesome people 💜
Dang, this is the BEST single overview on bolted anchors I've ever seen on UA-cam! Covers all the bases, Including more modern hardware like mussy hooks, and the "Fixe single ring" hardware that's not so common in the United States that widely used elsewhere. Thumbs up!
Cory really well done presentation and I enjoyed the last two minutes about public responsibility.
Thank you so much, my friend!
I'm fairly a newbie to climbing and your videos/instagram have taught me a ton. I have only climbed outdoors a handful of times but I have incorporated some of your techniques into my knowledge base. I have come across carabiners on overhanging routes before and had to ask my more seasoned friends why there were so many bail biners on the overhung routes only to discover they are left there to help when cleaning routes because it was so overhung. Keep making all the video's and post you can, they are a great resource.
Your kind words are very very much appreciated, my friend! Will keep making more for the future!
Hey Cody, you produce some great videos, straight into the useful info. As a beginner climber I really appreciate it!
Thank you very much for those kind words, my friend. I hope I can bring more content on UA-cam in the future, but i tend to focus on my Instagram these days. Please always feel free to reach out over there!
by far the best video on this topic I've seen. Just the quantity of scenarios you went over was great.
Thank you, my friend for those words! I know this isn't exhaustive, but I hope that it covers enough scenarios to give folks a great starting point. Hope they end up being helpful for you!
Excellent multifaceted video. Thanks Cody!
Thank you so much, my friend! New territory here so will continue to learn to use it better!
Great advice! Thanks for taking the time to share
Thanks for taking the time for the kind words!
Good video ! thanks for sharing the knowledge 🙌
Gabriel Ibañez of course, my friend! Thank you!
@10:56 Thank you for specifying that if multiple people are leading and lowering off a route it's still best to lower off your own gear, and just the LAST person gets to lower off the fixed hardware. I see groups all the time run multiple people up a route and lower every one off mussies or fixies and yet when I've talked to a few they didn't understand how it was similar to toproping through the fixed hardware.
Certainly! I suffer no illusions that lowering wears anchors more quickly. However, we can take steps to ensure they last longer, and that is the easiest one!
Edelrid bulletproof quickdraws are fantastic for putting up to TR / lower off, the steel inserts last forever especially at sandy crags. I have 2 of those and 2 of the bulletproof lockers for my TR quad. Still look brand new after 2 seasons.
Great work buddy! Love the videos.
Thanks so much Cody! I'm excited to see more videos in the future. Just dropped some $$$ your way on Venmo.
Incredibly appreciated my friend. More detail in a comment above for donations, but I will prioritize any donor's questions for future video topics!
Thanks, Cody
Hey Cody, I’m a huge fan of your videos and definitely feel that your content has made me a safer climber! I was curious if you ever utilize your rope for the anchor when two bolts are present (assuming you’re swapping leads), or if you consistently favor utilizing slings, cords, etc. when multi pitch climbing. I was hoping for some insight into the trade off between the two. Thanks again!
Pete Best I do utilize my rope for some anchors! Mostly for monoliths and such. I have some Tech Tips on my Instagram that demonstrate these.
There are certainly times at a standard bolted anchors I also utilize the rope with clove hitches on the pieces of gear and down to a masterpoint, but that is far less common. I would say less than 1% of the time for myself as a guide.
The trade off with rope as anchor is that swinging lead becomes more challenging if there is not a ledge where both climbers can be unattached at the anchor. The two situations I use the rope as an anchor most frequently is at the top of a route where we can walk off (so typically a tree or boulders, etc) or on the anchor I am going to rappel from (using my pre-rigged device and a knot below to belay my partner(again see my instagram for that tip)). Hope that sheds some light!
Cody Bradford This is super helpful! Thanks so much Cody!
The route setters in my area applied and were donated mussy hooks for a new crag. Some association replaces the sheet metal gate (sharp) with wire gates. GG
Thanks, great vid! Even though I’m an experienced climber, I learned a couple of things!
Awesome to hear, my friend! Cheers!
Nice! Ethics are most important!
vety nice, and methodical, Tnx
Heck only just found out.
Holy #TechTipTuesday! This was an excellent video, definitely going to implement a few items I learned along with tossing some extra quick links and a wrench in the bag. Will you post the link for people to donate? I didn't see it in the description...
Keep up the excellent work, very excited for the videos to come.
Can do! For now, its just Venmo (@thecodybradford) and I'm saving for a microphone and mirrorless or dslr camera for future recording and editing! Also, all of those who are donating, I'm prioritizing things they want to see in future videos! Thank you!!!
Super useful! RIP.
Jealous of the hardware I see in videos of some American crags. Where I live in Europe I'm happy to find a rusty chain at the anchor!
mattiti we have those too!! Never fun to arrive at one 😰
Hi Cody, thanks for the excellent video. One question I have is about the anchor at 3:48. To prevent rubbing against your carabiner, can't you just pass the bight / rope through the quicklinks, without passing through your carabiner? Thanks!
Essentially, yes given the right conditions. If there is another party(s) using the anchor, that becomes impossible. There are other methods at play at that point, but this is the easiest way if another party or yourself wish to thread the anchor and rappel while it is in use.
Ok, got it, thanks for your answer.
A different question I have: do you find it problematic to use Twist Lock carabiners on a PAS to connect yourself to an anchor? I was recently confronted with this question, as I saw a video on how easily Twist Lock carabiners can unlock if rubbing occurs. Makes me believe that if a rope rubs against the lock the wrong way, it could lead to some danger. Tried to find more online resources on the dangers of Twist Lock carabiners, but can't find a lot more. Would you recommend using Screw Lock, Triact Lock or Ball Lock carabiners as alternatives? Or do you think the probability of Twist Locks unlocking itself is pretty low. Thanks again.
@@kachingwohoo Apologies for my late reply! These somehow get buried in my inbox. I do find that twist locks can open, but this is usually due to gate flutter when oriented upwards at the station. Meaning, when I clip my tether carabiner (clove hitch 99.0%) I "clip it and flip it" so that the gate screws downward. This is not an issue when belaying off of the harness, typically. I do find that twist locks are more secure in general, but I do not think they will add any particular safety on a rock climb where you are constantly able to check it and just screw it back shut. Not to mention that an unlocked carabiner does not mean failure. Given that they only have one use, they are of little use to me on a rock climb where clipping and unclipping is very common. On a glacier, I will typically utilize a double action carabiner since I am rarely taking it off.
@@CodyBradford Ok, I got you. Thank you so much for answering my questions! Really appreciate it :)
Mechanical engineer answering your question about loading at 7:30. When the Biner is placed over the chains or links and then loaded, it causes a bending moment. In short, it is bad given the other states of stress within the material. Any Deformable Solids text would be sufficient reference. Some Materials Science text would be necessary for full understanding of the stress states and the behavior of different aluminum grades in those stress states.
Very much appreciate that! There has also since been more info to come out about this after an injury free incident occurred to one of my instagram followers, wherein they took a leader fall onto a bolt that had a quicklink within the bolt. The carabiner sat on top of this said link. After a number of falls, that force was enough to break the carabiner, causing a much bigger fall, so you're definitely right.
Since then, I am much more picky about the loading and will only load over the links if I will need to transition to a rappel and only if that stance is hanging and unweighting to retrieve my gear would be difficult.
@@CodyBradford Don't we have the same issue here: ua-cam.com/video/jV3Ibokh3wY/v-deo.html ???
Thank you all!
Not all heroes wear capes.
the groove created on mussy hooks, although flat, will cut a rope if you fall on it
How?
thanks!
Cheers!
Where is this at? Looks like a beautiful place!
Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area in Nevada, US! One of my favorite climbing locations on Earth!
Hey Cody, thanks for the video!
I was wondering if you could explain why you would use a locker draw on the first anchor. I would have thought opposite and opposed non lockers would be fine, not sure if I was missing something.
Also works! Just depends on the context and a locker draw can just add simple security, quickly!
Thanks for the video, it’s really great! In a newly developed area where the anchor is just two bolts and two hangers, what’s the most efficient/ safe way to place gear for a final lower off/rappel? whether the bolts are placed horizontally or vertically, what’s the best utilization for the gear we’d be leaving behind
While fairly uncommon, it certainly happens. I always carry at minimum 2 cheap/found carabiners that I am prepared to leave behind!
This is great.
Extremely appreciative of the kind words! Hope to keep making them better as the weeks go by!
@@CodyBradford I think it's great to have a giant collection of various bolted anchor types that you might come across. I've seen new climbers panic when they come across unfamiliar anchors. It's also fantastic that you share about the ethics of leaving gear and when to use your own vs lowering on fixed pieces. Keep it up!
@@xchinvanderlinden Agreed and I hope to add more to this subject in the future! There are some weird ones out there, but for now, this will be the last one out in the real world for a bit since I filmed it long before we all went into isolation.
Nice
Update to the video. Two days ago one climber died cleaning mussy hooks. It is probably the third fatal accident I heard on mussy hooks. Guess we need some instructional video on them.
I miss your videos Cody... 😢
This guy died too? Every climbing video I look up everyone is saying RIP to him. Hopefully it wasn’t from climbing. He seems like a great guy.
When using non lockers for the top anchor biners you usually do the ol clip n flip. I'm aware this is common practice but have never heard an explanation. Why do we do this?
You are missed Cody...
6:04 -- if you keep your stuff on the bottom, the rings will still be free, won't they? Also, to me it seems like most of the time clipping biners over the hardware hanging from the bolts can lead to the biner being loaded weird (on to the upper quick link in this case) if there was a fall on it?
and you literally cover that in the next 30 seconds... disregard lol. only problem with this method is like you say, once the chains are loaded its annoying to get the biners out. I've had annoyances with it but for the most part it doesn't seem like too much of an issue when cleaning. At the end of the day it makes me feel better about the way the biners are loaded while climbing
@@CasaDelMandar Agreed with that last point as it is only a minor issue. One in which you become accustomed to dealing with later when your bandwidth has increased. To the first statement; when your carabiners are in the hangers, especially on the bottom, the rappel rope will then pinch the carabiners into the anchor and also load over the entire set up once the rappeller goes vertical, unless the edge transition is nearly horizontal. The benefit of both the rope and your carabiners being in the rings is that you can equally load both without interfering with the other, especially when there are large rings.
Great vid.
Q: probably unlikely, but if at an anchor where the 2 bolts are vertically offset (eg the one at 9:31, is there a best practice if you want to put in a quad?
I imagine you’d still use the lower bolt but if the top bolt is far away from the bottom one, would you just use one of the links instead of the top bolt?
I recommend using that style of anchor as I demonstrate around 8:55
Side note. Place your biners behind the rings or links to avoid caming the biner and breaking it. Wait never mind you just got to that 😂🤙
Clean the route. Of everything except the bolts. F the local, tell him the new guy in town said so lol
metal on metal is bad because it creates mirco serrations and will damage ropes.
Designate certain carabiners to be the metal on metal biners and others for rope biners
I feel like I just got the asspburgers. I appreciate what you tried to do but this seems a little schizophrenic
Should mussy hooks be opposite and opposed?