My first real motorcycle was a Triumph Cub. Great motorcycle that I kept for a few years. Traded it along with a 1959 VW for a Ducati 350 MK3 Desmo. Cost me $675 dollars new. My how things have changed. Cub program is really great. Thanks for the program. I recently bought another Cub that will need to be restored. Take care and keep up the great work.
I’m always amazed on how much lathe is used. Obviously with your years of experience it comes with a little thought behind each piece. Wishing I was offered trade classes in my youth. I would still like to learn to use one. Mitch is doing a great job with each and every episode. Love the content!
@@paulbrodie Thanks Paul. Just saw the video of your Excelsior prang. I can feel for you with the femur. With me it was my right femur poking out the side of my leg (a car hit me). Needless to say the BSA A65L was a write-off and me 3 months in hospital. I was 21 and that was 1970. Keep getting well!
I use drag link adjusters for the access caps ..big slotted drivers that fit 1/2” ratchets with a wide blade …craftsman!…I have one that I have modified with a correct radius and width to knock out crank plugs and access the sludge traps on Brit bikes. I usually use it on my hand impact…it works quite well. Good stuff, thanks.
I hope this little Tiger appreciates all your pampering. As the last contributor says, your attention to detail really in incredible. Fascinating series of videos.
On some engines the oil feed to the rockers is restricted by either a small orifice in a fitting or by the inside diameter of the oil line, so the pressure to the bottom end isn't compromised. Very nice work Paul.
Page 1357 of the machinery’s hand book 18 edition. All about using wires for measuring threads. Love your series. I have a 1969 t100 that I am working on when I am not riding other bikes.
Paul, measuring threads with wires is great way to end up with a nice fit according to spec's. For each pitch you need 3 of them. Two on one side of the threaded part and one opposite. With two you could be measuring the hypotenuse and not the shortest distance or prone to error. You can buy them as one assembly (three wires connected) and it goes with a list what your readings should be when completing the cutting of the thread. Find the thread that you want to cut first ideally so you don't have to take slop in account. They're quite expensive, especially if you want a complete set. E.g. Starrett makes them and you can find them using "thread measuring wires" in a search engine. Thank you for another wonderful episode. All the best, Job
You could buy these covers already made ,along with several other items like a swept back exhaust pipe ,fiber glass petrol tank +seat ,turn your cub into a cafe racer of the times in the UK in the 60s.
@@paulbrodie yessir, I am aware. I have used the term "lathing" to differentiate turning from milling, under the catchall term "machining". Plus it makes people think I am totally uneducated and ignorant (like using the term "bigly") 🙂
Thank you Paul and Mitch. When you were cutting the fins on the points cover I was really hoping they would be at the same angle as the cylinder fins but I needn't have worried.
As always, thank you Paul & Mitch. It's nice to find fellow travelers in the obsessive tool building vein. I also make screwdrivers for slotted timing covers, and I have a variety of sizes. I made mine out of short bits of O1 and hardened them, but I have to grip them in an adjustable wrench, which is awkward. On the "someday when I get around to it" list is making hex adaptors for them so I can just put a wrench on them. One of the things I've learned on UA-cam is that you can pretty successfully un-bugger slotted heads by peening the displaced metal back into place with a light hammer. It works surprisingly well on steel screws, but I doubt it would work on cast aluminum.
Really nice touches there Paul, ties the whole thing together. Glad to see you less stressed, more Zen and the art of watching motorcycles being built by Paul
For me, it's just easier. The bandsaw hardly ever screws up. Parting can be tricky, especially if the cut is deep. When parting goes wrong, usually due to not enough cutting oil, the results are not good.
Hello Paul. I really like the look of those allen wrenches, and I think I need them. Would you be so kind as to tell me what brand they are so I can spend a bunch of money on a set?
When I watched the last video I was thinking it would have been cool to have made fins on the pushrod tube that matched the cylinder fins, but didn't want to say anything since you were already done ;) The points cover looks great as does everything you create, thanks again for sharing your time and talent.
Have you ever tried alcohol for machining and tapping aluminum? Works like a charm. Even breakcleaner works. Ethanol based alcohol is just much more less toxic. Litlebit alcohol on the part at last pass on lathe make much more nice surface finish.
I don't work in my shop if I am drunk.. Oh, that's not what you meant. I use cutting oil. Brake cleaner would have terrible fumes. I would not use that.
Another nice video Paul. I just fabbed up a carb sync tool for my Honda. The ports on the head are 5mm x 0.8. I grabbed some 3/16 brake line at Canadian Tire which fit nicely into my 5mm x 0.8 die. They had various lengths, I just needed an 8 inch piece for $4.
Excellent video Paul and Mitch! Your videos have been both educational and inspiring for me. Over the last few days I designed and fabricated rear view mirror mounts for my dirt bike, which has previously been modified and registered for road use. These are attached to the handlebars by replacing the rear clamps of the hand lever perches. Of the two, the throttle side presented the greatest challenge, because the mount has to go around the horizontal throttle cables, which run parallel to the top of the bar. Thank You!
Those allen wrenches are the exact same as the ones you can buy at farm and fleet for way less than 20$, except they don't come in a wooden box they are in a plastic holder.
Really enjoy your video’s. Just a tip for threading against a shoulder. Turn the threading tool upside down and run the lathe in reverse so you can thread away from the shoulder not into the shoulder.
Slots like the ones found on your blanking plates were very common they were designed to be undone with pre decimal British coinage, manufacturers rightly reckoned most folk would have some small change in their pockets, The one penny piece, the two shilling coin and the half crown would have all fitted in the slot and undone the thread. This was an idea that dates back to Victorian times and can be found in the strangest of places my Britannia air rifle has a similar slot in it's end cap so that the piston spring and seal could all be easily removed for service.
@@paulbrodie Yes my grandparents had a large pot of farthings that used to come out when we played cards at the end of the evening the farthings all went back in the pot along with any stray ones that had happened to be in our pockets, even after they were taken out of circulation they would regularly appear on the pavement or in change from shops.that old pot had quite a heft to it. Which county?
@@paulbrodie Hampshire quite a county were you old enough to remember Gales Ales what a crackling brewery one of the best pints of bitter in the entire country
Love watching you work! I can't help wondering how much clearance is below the adapter and the banjo bolt in the casting...enough room for oil to flow properly?
We get to see the Webco part again! It and the point cover could all pass for upgraded factory parts. That stamped metal cover looked more like a trim ring. I know you said you could polish them but I think they look more authentic this way. Whitworth sizes are frequently found on oil lines for cars and other machines of this era. I've seen Italian, Eastern European and Japanese as well as English using Whitworth. The oil coolers on Mazda rotary engines use Whitworth. People in the US often destroy them because they don't suspect there is a different (and older) standard.
Hi Fred. I bought one from a Snap On tool truck years ago. I don’t use it often, but when I need it, there’s no substitute. Does a great job of cleaning up threads on existing fasteners - especially ones that may be hard to replace.
Those marks in the slots of the points cover... chattering of the tool? Perhaps a final cut a hair each side would make a nice finish? A 'kiss' as Titan would say
Actually, I haven't seen Mitch yet. Couldn't you encourage him to join you for a moment on your side the camera :-) Keep both up the good work! It is educational and entertaining! Thank you very much!
Probably telling you something you already know but, it looks like you were recutting the chips while cutting the cooling fins. Give yourself a thou or two clearance on the Y axis and a continuous spray of air will drastically improve the cut finish with the small ball nose endmill. The climbing side of the small endmill really flexes them with the chips in the groove. I've been using aviation lockwire as thread wire for years, good enough for the class of work you are doing. The engine looks fantastic. Thanks Paul & Mitch.
Yes, I could have done a better job on the milling, but we have time constraints when we film. I sanded and polished out those marks, so it looks fine now. Thanks for commenting.
I thought that a second run per groove going the opposite direction with some adjustment on the Y axis, climb milling the not so nice looking side this time, could have fixed the issue. If I assume right that the other side looked better. The climb cut on the outside looked flawless.
I get what you're saying Paul. Getting it done is the name of the game. Blasting air while filming is not all that conducive to a good video. I just felt for you when you commented about the finish. 👍
@@michaelmader9607 I made 4 passes per groove. The last cut was smaller, but no finishing passes climb milling with small adjustments to the Y axis. Both sides looked the same. The climb cut on the outside was flawless because it was a very small cut, and I did make 2 passes. I also realized the endmill could have been held further up in the collet...
Yesterday I lost my BSA's oil tank cap, I ordered a new one. Today I watch this video and now I feel guilty, I should have made a new one..... shame on me Good work Paul, you inspire.
Man I love your Cub vids! Makes me wish I still had the ones I used to have. What are you going to do with the Ducati engine on the shelf in the background? Love those almost as I do Cubs but the kick starter is on the wrong side
That blanking cover makes me think of the battery covers on old cycle computers. They're a concave slot designed for a coin to fit... I wonder if that's what Triumph had in mind too, or if it was just a coincidence because of the tools they used.
I was wondering how the 'fins' on points cover would line up but the screw holes showed it pretty easy. Looks nice. I use stainless Allen bolts with a long shank to make banjo bolts for 'custom fitting' brake calipers. Cut off threaded end, drill along length holding onto head and turn OD. I made a fixture to drill head and drill as though they are going to be lock-wired Reverse in chuck, turn taper on head. Mount on an Allen key to thread (using an HSS die) Not a fan of using inch sizes on metric bikes but 3/8" are so much cheaper than 12mm using inch Allen key isn't a real big deal . I've made 10x1mm to use on Suzuki calipers and 10x1.25 for Honda/Yamaha calipers. Around 2008, I did as rough estimate that they would cost around $28.00 each so should fit in well with all the other custom parts your making 🤣
Hello Paul, that was a nice little combination of jobs you’ve got through there. It was noticeable when you cut the cover as the light caught the markings in the material. Do you think it was the material or the amount removed? When working timber in a similar way finishing with a fine cut of a few thou. can clean a cut surface. I have enjoyed seeing you create a thread on the lathe, something which I have alway been fascinated by, since my metalwork lessons in high school. I have never had the opportunity to try it but hopefully my day will come! Thank you and Mitch for another enjoyable video. Best wishes Kevin.
This engine will be very beautiful! Almost too good to use it ;-) On my engine, I replaced these slotted screw plugs with square ones. Square because you could buy hexagonal ones and I wanted screw plugs that you can't buy ;-) Sooner or later you will slip and damage the screw or slot.
The points cover is a job where a power feed on that mill would be really nice. Still relaxing, but less of a workout and the surface finish might have been a little smoother! :)
Bradley, I need the workout. I should have taken a tiny finishing pass on each side, but didn't realize how rough it was until later... No worries, I filed, sanded and polished so all is well now :)
It would be interesting to know what the runner up Cub engine looks like... And the winner is... Astonishing how a prosaic old engine can be transformed into a work of art if someone daft enough and talented enough is prepared throw hour after hour at it... (All of Coventry has sent itself to Coventry, btw)... (Actually that probably doesn't mean much outside the UK, but I live a bit south of Coventry, and there's an ominous hush)... Top notch, professor, as always. 🙊...
I call that a "band saw". A hack saw is a bench tool (one of my favorites). Before you took the work piece out of the lathe chuck, you could have prepared a way to get it back straight (maybe you did), In case there is need for more threading. One way, out of a regular three jaw is to mark the material adjacent to one jaw, and also mark that jaw with a marker. It works well enough for not very critical jobs, if the three jaw chuck is OK.
If you look at the 6061, you will see red Sharpie marks so I could put it back in the chuck (if need be...) to remove more metal, and it would still run concentric. Thanks for commenting.
Thank you for demonstrating the importance of using the correct size driver to tighten/loosen a slot headed cover etc. This was told to me as an eager 15 year old as follows. You don't use a 3/8 spanner to undo a 1/2 bolt. So why not use the correct screwdriver. Again, many thanks for your informative yet amusing tapes.
Maybe forget the Aermacchi collars and turn up some brass banjo collars the same width as the adaptor slug or the hex head screw with two flats for a spanner to fit so the lines don't get strained when removing or tightening the hex screw down onto it?...Just an idea, ignore me, I am not worthy lol
You need a tshirt with "Can you see that?" on it hehe :p Loving the content! Oh by the way, should you see this, I have a question. When you're filing alu, is that a wood working carving file? It looks very much like an Iwasaki carving file! Mitch might know of them. I remember you mentioning he did woodworking
😎👍👍 stressed !! naa no way, hope the bandsaw blade is not dear to replace, and thanks mitch/ Paul for putting another vital episode together, (the Outtro theme music ? is cool i know its in 🎼b though no clue who !
hello Paul and Mitch, when you made the adaptor for the oil banjo , did you check it was not to long to restrict oil flow , love watching your videos ,great job
Nice job on the cover, really does look a lot better than the original and really ties into the rest of the engine with the fins. Yes, you're going to have to spend some time sanding in-between the fins to get rid of those machining marks, if not every time you look at it it'll annoy you.
@@paulbrodie Why not keep the threads British, grind your own 55 degree insert, and keep the integrity of the British threaded parts, no mixed up stuff.
@@jagitmax I don't have a tool and cutter grinder with a diamond wheel that can sharpen carbide inserts, I'm not doing a restoration, I'm just building a nice Cub the way that I want to see it. For this, I can't be labelled a purist. If the threads don't all match, I won't lose sleep.
My first real motorcycle was a Triumph Cub. Great motorcycle that I kept for a few years. Traded it along with a 1959 VW for a Ducati 350 MK3 Desmo. Cost me $675 dollars new. My how things have changed. Cub program is really great. Thanks for the program. I recently bought another Cub that will need to be restored. Take care and keep up the great work.
Thanks Joseph. Good story. I'm supposed to be getting my second Cub sometime this spring. Looking forward to that!
So relaxing thanks Paul
Steven, thank you for watching!
I’m always amazed on how much lathe is used. Obviously with your years of experience it comes with a little thought behind each piece. Wishing I was offered trade classes in my youth. I would still like to learn to use one. Mitch is doing a great job with each and every episode. Love the content!
Thank you David!
You used to buy these covers back in the 60s already made by customisers and other updated upgraded parts for cubs.
If I remember correctly, you can still buy finned points covers off a website. I just wanted to make my own...
You never cease to amaze with your workmanship. Thanks for these wonderful videos.
Thanks Peter. Kind words!
@@paulbrodie Thanks Paul. Just saw the video of your Excelsior prang. I can feel for you with the femur. With me it was my right femur poking out the side of my leg (a car hit me). Needless to say the BSA A65L was a write-off and me 3 months in hospital. I was 21 and that was 1970.
Keep getting well!
@@petermckee1061 Yes, you had a big crash too! Somehow, we seem to survive all this crazy stuff and life goes on...
When a delivery is anticipated but work goes on, none the less, the little voice in my head says, "Uh-oh!'
That's got to be the best loved Cub engine ever.
The attention to detail is incredible on this little engine!
Why thank you!
This is the best looking Cub engine I’ve ever seen!
Thank you Christopher.
Great video and info as always 👍🏻
Thank you!
That clever screwdriver needs a clever handle.Beautiful work!
Thank you.
Muy buen Trabajo !! Te saluda un Tornero Argentino!! De la Vieja Escuela Raggio!! Un saludo desde Argentina 🇦🇷
My favourite channel, cheers Paul and Mitch.
Thank you. Very nice comment!
I use drag link adjusters for the access caps ..big slotted drivers that fit 1/2” ratchets with a wide blade …craftsman!…I have one that I have modified with a correct radius and width to knock out crank plugs and access the sludge traps on Brit bikes. I usually use it on my hand impact…it works quite well. Good stuff, thanks.
Thanks Terry.
great work and great camera work too, nice threading video.
Thank you Gordon.
Good one, I think the best part of machining is the fixturing and the setup Thanks
Thanks Brad.
cant wait to hear it run!
I still have a pretty long list of things to do, so please be patient :)
everything you make is beautiful , you make everything look like a priceless work of art
Thank you so much 😀 There must be a bit of artist in me.
Superb in the details 👏👌Paul
Cheers Chris
I hope this little Tiger appreciates all your pampering. As the last contributor says, your attention to detail really in incredible. Fascinating series of videos.
Phil, thank you very much!
On some engines the oil feed to the rockers is restricted by either a small orifice in a fitting or by the inside diameter of the oil line, so the pressure to the bottom end isn't compromised. Very nice work Paul.
Really nice work Paul
Thank you! Cheers!
Page 1357 of the machinery’s hand book 18 edition. All about using wires for measuring threads. Love your series. I have a 1969 t100 that I am working on when I am not riding other bikes.
I do have a Machinery's Handbook in my shop..
Amazing your ability and patients when it come to getting everything to perfection
Thanks Ralph. I'm having fun!
Paul, measuring threads with wires is great way to end up with a nice fit according to spec's. For each pitch you need 3 of them. Two on one side of the threaded part and one opposite. With two you could be measuring the hypotenuse and not the shortest distance or prone to error. You can buy them as one assembly (three wires connected) and it goes with a list what your readings should be when completing the cutting of the thread. Find the thread that you want to cut first ideally so you don't have to take slop in account. They're quite expensive, especially if you want a complete set. E.g. Starrett makes them and you can find them using "thread measuring wires" in a search engine. Thank you for another wonderful episode. All the best, Job
Thanks Job. Good info. That thread did end up fitting very nicely. Maybe I was just lucky?
Fins not only look cool but they also make you go faster!!!
I agree 100%.
You could buy these covers already made ,along with several other items like a swept back exhaust pipe ,fiber glass petrol tank +seat ,turn your cub into a cafe racer of the times in the UK in the 60s.
Buying something is not the same as making something. That's what I think...
I could watch lathing and machining for hours on end
That's why we make so many videos! Work done on a lathe is usually referred to as "turning".
@@paulbrodie yessir, I am aware. I have used the term "lathing" to differentiate turning from milling, under the catchall term "machining". Plus it makes people think I am totally uneducated and ignorant (like using the term "bigly") 🙂
Thank you Paul and Mitch. When you were cutting the fins on the points cover I was really hoping they would be at the same angle as the cylinder fins but I needn't have worried.
Thanks Don. Yes, they all line up..
As always, thank you Paul & Mitch. It's nice to find fellow travelers in the obsessive tool building vein. I also make screwdrivers for slotted timing covers, and I have a variety of sizes. I made mine out of short bits of O1 and hardened them, but I have to grip them in an adjustable wrench, which is awkward. On the "someday when I get around to it" list is making hex adaptors for them so I can just put a wrench on them.
One of the things I've learned on UA-cam is that you can pretty successfully un-bugger slotted heads by peening the displaced metal back into place with a light hammer. It works surprisingly well on steel screws, but I doubt it would work on cast aluminum.
Alan, thanks for watching and commenting :)
Really nice touches there Paul, ties the whole thing together. Glad to see you less stressed, more Zen and the art of watching motorcycles being built by Paul
Thank you Leigh. Maybe I was a bit stressed. It can happen working on a Cub motor :)
I was like pleeeeease recess the O-ring!
Gotta ask, why do you use a hacksaw to cut your finished parts off instead of using a cut-off tool on the lathe?
For me, it's just easier. The bandsaw hardly ever screws up. Parting can be tricky, especially if the cut is deep. When parting goes wrong, usually due to not enough cutting oil, the results are not good.
another great video, thanks paul and mitch :)
Thank you Kike.
Good work.
Thanks David.
Another fine piece of craftsmanship. Did you plan the angle of the grooves to match the barrel. Or was that totally random.RMM
Thanks Robery. It was the plan.
Hello Paul. I really like the look of those allen wrenches, and I think I need them. Would you be so kind as to tell me what brand they are so I can spend a bunch of money on a set?
Jon, the brand is Silca, they are Italian, and Silca also makes things like floor pumps for bicycles. Hope you find some 🙂
@@paulbrodie Thanks! Who knew I needed Italian allen wrenches in my life, but here we are.
Like that blanking plug would even dare to be anything but perfect 😉
Thanks Lawrence.
When I watched the last video I was thinking it would have been cool to have made fins on the pushrod tube that matched the cylinder fins, but didn't want to say anything since you were already done ;) The points cover looks great as does everything you create, thanks again for sharing your time and talent.
Thanks Rick!
Have you ever tried alcohol for machining and tapping aluminum? Works like a charm. Even breakcleaner works. Ethanol based alcohol is just much more less toxic. Litlebit alcohol on the part at last pass on lathe make much more nice surface finish.
I don't work in my shop if I am drunk.. Oh, that's not what you meant. I use cutting oil. Brake cleaner would have terrible fumes. I would not use that.
Another nice video Paul. I just fabbed up a carb sync tool for my Honda. The ports on the head are 5mm x 0.8. I grabbed some 3/16 brake line at Canadian Tire which fit nicely into my 5mm x 0.8 die. They had various lengths, I just needed an 8 inch piece for $4.
Thank you. That's great you are making tools!
Paul, these videos are so very much more than, okay. Truly brilliant and inspirational. Both you Mitch are amazing!
Thank you Mark. When I said okay, that is my sense of humour...
@@paulbrodie Love your sense of humor Paul :))😄
@@markmetzger5430 Thank you Mark!
You're an inspiration Paul !
Thank you Bryan :)
You do a great job PAUL, and Mitch does a great video. Thanks I enjoy them all. I love to watch a master at work. Seriously.
Thanks Michael 👍 very nice comment!
Very smart 👍👍😎👍👍
Thanks Joel.
Excellent video Paul and Mitch! Your videos have been both educational and inspiring for me. Over the last few days I designed and fabricated rear view mirror mounts for my dirt bike, which has previously been modified and registered for road use. These are attached to the handlebars by replacing the rear clamps of the hand lever perches. Of the two, the throttle side presented the greatest challenge, because the mount has to go around the horizontal throttle cables, which run parallel to the top of the bar.
Thank You!
Thanks John. Very nice comment! That's great you're designing and fabricating too. It's good to be creative.
Time to relax and enjoy
Mitch got in good and tight today. Great content!
Thank you Richard. We call them Extreme Closeups!
Truly beautiful engine!
Thank you Heinrich!
Very nice.
Thank you John B.
I’ve always wanted to do something like this! Where do I begin? I have covers like that on my motorcycle & would love to learn how to make some!
Watch the video. You can do it!
Excellent video, and I am loving the two shorter episodes each week.
Thank you Carl. Appreciate your comment.
Those allen wrenches are the exact same as the ones you can buy at farm and fleet for way less than 20$, except they don't come in a wooden box they are in a plastic holder.
Are you sure they are "exact same"? Made in Italy?
Thanks for another great one.
Thank you G Man.
Really enjoy your video’s. Just a tip for threading against a shoulder. Turn the threading tool upside down and run the lathe in reverse so you can thread away from the shoulder not into the shoulder.
Fantastic work yet again!
Thank you Jeremy.
OK? It was excellent - as usual. It’s going to look a very smart Cub indeed! Thank you both. Les in UK
Thank you Les.
Slots like the ones found on your blanking plates were very common they were designed to be undone with pre decimal British coinage, manufacturers rightly reckoned most folk would have some small change in their pockets, The one penny piece, the two shilling coin and the half crown would have all fitted in the slot and undone the thread. This was an idea that dates back to Victorian times and can be found in the strangest of places my Britannia air rifle has a similar slot in it's end cap so that the piston spring and seal could all be easily removed for service.
Yes, I remember those coins. Farthings too. I was raised in the Old Country..
@@paulbrodie Yes my grandparents had a large pot of farthings that used to come out when we played cards at the end of the evening the farthings all went back in the pot along with any stray ones that had happened to be in our pockets, even after they were taken out of circulation they would regularly appear on the pavement or in change from shops.that old pot had quite a heft to it. Which county?
@@davidprocter3578 We lived in Southampton.
@@paulbrodie Hampshire quite a county were you old enough to remember Gales Ales what a crackling brewery one of the best pints of bitter in the entire country
@@davidprocter3578 No, I don't remember Gales Ales. I was nine when I left.
Another terrific video,many thanks...could you do a drill sharpening piece sometime? Cheers
Thanks Richard. Yes, we are working on a sharpening video.
Love watching you work! I can't help wondering how much clearance is below the adapter and the banjo bolt in the casting...enough room for oil to flow properly?
Thanks Cliff. I will check clearance. Someone else mentioned that too.
prettiest cub engine ever
Thank you Roy.
We get to see the Webco part again! It and the point cover could all pass for upgraded factory parts. That stamped metal cover looked more like a trim ring. I know you said you could polish them but I think they look more authentic this way. Whitworth sizes are frequently found on oil lines for cars and other machines of this era. I've seen Italian, Eastern European and Japanese as well as English using Whitworth. The oil coolers on Mazda rotary engines use Whitworth. People in the US often destroy them because they don't suspect there is a different (and older) standard.
Brian, thanks for commenting.
When cutting threads up to a shoulder - I flip the tool over and cut in reverse.
Isn't that harder to start the feed?
Wow, lovely work as usual. And I had no idea that a thread-chasing file was a thing!
Thank you Fred. I have had those files for almost 40 years..
Hi Fred. I bought one from a Snap On tool truck years ago. I don’t use it often, but when I need it, there’s no substitute. Does a great job of cleaning up threads on existing fasteners - especially ones that may be hard to replace.
I’m not sure I can use the term “adore” about tools but I adore that Silca hex set 😄 love the sleekness of the plug you made 👌🏻👏🏻
Ryan, thanks for watching and commenting.
Nice Screwdriver
Thanks.
Love the machining parts in your videos….thank you guys I appreciate it👍
Thank you David :)
Those marks in the slots of the points cover... chattering of the tool? Perhaps a final cut a hair each side would make a nice finish? A 'kiss' as Titan would say
They did look a bit rough when still on the mill, but I'm sure Paul finished them to his satisfaction.
I filed them all smooth.
@@gerry343 Yes I did!
yes thats the right way ! but paul likes file it down :-)
Actually, I haven't seen Mitch yet. Couldn't you encourage him to join you for a moment on your side the camera :-) Keep both up the good work! It is educational and entertaining! Thank you very much!
I think not seeing him or hearing him adds a lot to the mystique! Reminds me of Jack of Unbox Therapy. Does Mitch even really exist?
Look him up on insta
Mitch is just a wee bit shy and prefers to hide behind his camera... Nice comment, thanks for watching!
Probably telling you something you already know but, it looks like you were recutting the chips while cutting the cooling fins. Give yourself a thou or two clearance on the Y axis and a continuous spray of air will drastically improve the cut finish with the small ball nose endmill.
The climbing side of the small endmill really flexes them with the chips in the groove.
I've been using aviation lockwire as thread wire for years, good enough for the class of work you are doing.
The engine looks fantastic. Thanks Paul & Mitch.
Yes, I could have done a better job on the milling, but we have time constraints when we film. I sanded and polished out those marks, so it looks fine now. Thanks for commenting.
I thought that a second run per groove going the opposite direction with some adjustment on the Y axis, climb milling the not so nice looking side this time, could have fixed the issue. If I assume right that the other side looked better. The climb cut on the outside looked flawless.
I get what you're saying Paul. Getting it done is the name of the game. Blasting air while filming is not all that conducive to a good video. I just felt for you when you commented about the finish. 👍
@@michaelmader9607 I made 4 passes per groove. The last cut was smaller, but no finishing passes climb milling with small adjustments to the Y axis. Both sides looked the same. The climb cut on the outside was flawless because it was a very small cut, and I did make 2 passes. I also realized the endmill could have been held further up in the collet...
@@paulbrodie Thank you for your great content and inspiring work.
Yesterday I lost my BSA's oil tank cap, I ordered a new one.
Today I watch this video and now I feel guilty, I should have made a new one..... shame on me
Good work Paul, you inspire.
Making an oil tank filler cap might not be an easy project. But everything is doable if you ponder long enough!
Man I love your Cub vids! Makes me wish I still had the ones I used to have. What are you going to do with the Ducati engine on the shelf in the background? Love those almost as I do Cubs but the kick starter is on the wrong side
Thanks Gerry. The Ducati has been on the shelf for years. It is empty inside. Just for show.
@@paulbrodie That sucks! They make a fun dirt bike, too. Just a bit heavy. Had a 250 and loved it, but not as much as the Cubs!
That blanking cover makes me think of the battery covers on old cycle computers. They're a concave slot designed for a coin to fit... I wonder if that's what Triumph had in mind too, or if it was just a coincidence because of the tools they used.
Some people use a large coin as a screwdriver, but the radius really needs to be larger than a coin to get the "proper" fit.
Beautiful work mate!
Thank you.
I was wondering how the 'fins' on points cover would line up but the screw holes showed it pretty easy.
Looks nice.
I use stainless Allen bolts with a long shank to make banjo bolts for 'custom fitting' brake calipers.
Cut off threaded end, drill along length holding onto head and turn OD.
I made a fixture to drill head and drill as though they are going to be lock-wired
Reverse in chuck, turn taper on head. Mount on an Allen key to thread (using an HSS die)
Not a fan of using inch sizes on metric bikes but 3/8" are so much cheaper than 12mm using inch Allen key isn't a real big deal .
I've made 10x1mm to use on Suzuki calipers and 10x1.25 for Honda/Yamaha calipers. Around 2008, I did as rough estimate that they would cost around $28.00 each so should fit in well with all the other custom parts your making 🤣
Peter , thanks for your comments.
I use a large fender washer as a screw driver for my oil fill plug on my bonneville
Hello Paul, that was a nice little combination of jobs you’ve got through there. It was noticeable when you cut the cover as the light caught the markings in the material. Do you think it was the material or the amount removed? When working timber in a similar way finishing with a fine cut of a few thou. can clean a cut surface.
I have enjoyed seeing you create a thread on the lathe, something which I have alway been fascinated by, since my metalwork lessons in high school. I have never had the opportunity to try it but hopefully my day will come!
Thank you and Mitch for another enjoyable video.
Best wishes Kevin.
Thanks Kevin. Yes, the points cover missed out on its' finishing passes, but I have fixed that. I hope you do make some threads one day :)
This engine will be very beautiful! Almost too good to use it ;-)
On my engine, I replaced these slotted screw plugs with square ones. Square because you could buy hexagonal ones and I wanted screw plugs that you can't buy ;-) Sooner or later you will slip and damage the screw or slot.
I promise I will not slip.
@@paulbrodie I believe you, I'm sure you're of good will, but one day it will happen ;-)
I wish you continued success in your projects!
👍Un tocco D'artista 👏👏👏
Are you going to acorn your banjo bolt?
I would have to make the banjo bolt from scratch for that, so probably no.
Beautiful machine work as usual. You could purchase finned points covers just like that, IIRC
Thanks Andy. Yes, I know I can buy a finned points cover, but what fun is that?
I think it’s kool to have Mitch as the mystery man ? … I really injoyed this episode !!!
Thanks Timothy. Yes, Mitch is the Man of Mystery.
The points cover is a job where a power feed on that mill would be really nice. Still relaxing, but less of a workout and the surface finish might have been a little smoother! :)
Bradley, I need the workout. I should have taken a tiny finishing pass on each side, but didn't realize how rough it was until later... No worries, I filed, sanded and polished so all is well now :)
Nice lathe work, you don't need a CNC if you have Paul's coordination. 👍
Thanks!
It would be interesting to know what the runner up Cub engine looks like... And the winner is... Astonishing how a prosaic old engine can be transformed into a work of art if someone daft enough and talented enough is prepared throw hour after hour at it... (All of Coventry has sent itself to Coventry, btw)... (Actually that probably doesn't mean much outside the UK, but I live a bit south of Coventry, and there's an ominous hush)... Top notch, professor, as always. 🙊...
Thank you Bill.
Greetings from Squamish. I thought when you tried the plug for fitment on the engine. That is a Good Fit.
Hello Squamish! I do like a Good Fit!
I call that a "band saw". A hack saw is a bench tool (one of my favorites). Before you took the work piece out of the lathe chuck, you could have prepared a way to get it back straight (maybe you did), In case there is need for more threading. One way, out of a regular three jaw is to mark the material adjacent to one jaw, and also mark that jaw with a marker. It works well enough for not very critical jobs, if the three jaw chuck is OK.
If you look at the 6061, you will see red Sharpie marks so I could put it back in the chuck (if need be...) to remove more metal, and it would still run concentric. Thanks for commenting.
Thank you for demonstrating the importance of using the correct size driver to tighten/loosen a slot headed cover etc. This was told to me as an eager 15 year old as follows. You don't use a 3/8 spanner to undo a 1/2 bolt. So why not use the correct screwdriver. Again, many thanks for your informative yet amusing tapes.
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Did you put the radius on freehand?
Yes, I have no CNC.
Me: hits the like button before watching video
Maybe you know something..?
😎✌
PEE DEE wires, for measuring threads. Well worth the money.
Thank you.
👌 👍 👏
Maybe forget the Aermacchi collars and turn up some brass banjo collars the same width as the adaptor slug or the hex head screw with two flats for a spanner to fit so the lines don't get strained when removing or tightening the hex screw down onto it?...Just an idea, ignore me, I am not worthy lol
You need a tshirt with "Can you see that?" on it hehe :p Loving the content! Oh by the way, should you see this, I have a question. When you're filing alu, is that a wood working carving file? It looks very much like an Iwasaki carving file! Mitch might know of them. I remember you mentioning he did woodworking
I think the name for those files is Dreadnought. Some of my files are from the UK in the 50s and 60s. They can last a very long time on aluminum.
Beautiful work as always. I think the engine looks a bit odd without the lolipop dizzy but they, were, a pain in the proverbial.
Thanks Andy.
😎👍👍 stressed !! naa no way, hope the bandsaw blade is not dear to
replace, and thanks mitch/ Paul for putting another vital episode together,
(the Outtro theme music ? is cool i know its in 🎼b though no clue who !
Thanks William. That bandsaw blade wasn't that old, was still quite sharp, and do you think I can find the invoice? No.
Hi William, the outro song is called “Born Twice” by EyalRaz.
hello Paul and Mitch, when you made the adaptor for the oil banjo , did you check it was not to long to restrict oil flow , love watching your videos ,great job
Thank you. The adapter may be little too long, so it is my plan to shorten it just a bit :)
Nice job on the cover, really does look a lot better than the original and really ties into the rest of the engine with the fins. Yes, you're going to have to spend some time sanding in-between the fins to get rid of those machining marks, if not every time you look at it it'll annoy you.
Thanks, I sanded out all those marks for the thumbnail photo.
Curious Paul, are they 55 deg BSF threads or 60 deg on the oil plug?
Nice work! Thanks Mitch too!
My threading tool is 60 degrees, so they are 60 degrees. Thanks for liking our videos.
@@paulbrodie Why not keep the threads British, grind your own 55 degree insert, and keep the integrity of the British threaded parts, no mixed up stuff.
@@jagitmax I don't have a tool and cutter grinder with a diamond wheel that can sharpen carbide inserts, I'm not doing a restoration, I'm just building a nice Cub the way that I want to see it. For this, I can't be labelled a purist. If the threads don't all match, I won't lose sleep.