I’ve had this exact motor for the last 14 years...J25TELSSD...these videos have helped me out big time! I broke down and bought THEE parts and THEE service manuals for it and I’m not in anyway trying to be a “know it all”. Just sharing info. Page 3-71 says initial idle speed start point is 2&1/2 turns out for this motor. Mine seems to do good there, but understand they all have their idiosyncrasies. I’ve followed these videos on this motor from the get go. So far this year I’ve replaced the power pack, coils, starter solenoid, plug wires, rectifier, thermostat, complete water pump, carb rebuild and lower unit gear oil. Thanks for the great videos! It really helped me get this thing running like a sewing machine. I wish I could show you a video of it running. Now I just gotta find me some big Wye River crabs! Happy Boating!...Bill
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. Yes, "initial" setting/adjustment. Like I said in the video, or "captioned". These are just the basic settings, but, the lean sneeze procedure is Gospel! My 60 hp also says 2 turns out "initial" setting. But it was smoking so bad I set it back to 1+ 1/2. I go through the same thing with the manuals also. But, I believe the manuals are written for outboards a little more "recently" out of the factory. After 20-30-40 years your not dealing with something just off the assembly line anymore. That's why I said all outboards are not the same and to listen to it. It will tell you what it likes! Some do better with a little more and some with less. I've followed manual procedures til it drove me crazy, and could only set it where It wanted to run. Hahaha. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
You all are living the good life,right on get down .love your knowledge on outboards ,I'm a mechanic myself but love your videos on outboard ,s I love them too, keep it coming good stuff thanx
Just scored a 1995 Evinrude 25 for $100. It had no spark so I guess the previous owner thought it was the CDI as it was unbolted and left loose. The only issue it had was corroded plug from CDI to coils etc. Starts and runs fine. Unfortunately more people don't watch videos like yours to see these engines are really simple to fix just need to apply one's self. I also got a 78 25hp for $100 that's been abused but has a good Power head. The prop won't turn so seems terminal in the gearbox. Good for parts. Thanks heaps for your videos chief your bloods worth bottling 👍
I just wanted to say thank you for being detailed in your video and explaining everything as you do it at the same time...pretty sure one of those is my issue with my 20 hp Johnson outboard but either way really informative and useful for future situations but once again thank you sir and please keep it up, so people like my self can learn this shit and appreciate it
Your video is amazing… good information. I have a 1998 25hp Omc and I can’t figure out why it doesn’t run properly. I got it running have 115 compression in both cylinders. New plugs, cleaned carb, motors in great conndition upon visual inspection, but it starts and won’t stay running. It will rev up but then bog, and then act like it’s lean other times. Played with the low speed and idle for lots of time now and can’t seem to get her to stay running after she warms up
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I would go back to basics. Clean that carb again! You can get a set of welding tip cleaning tools from the big box stores for about $6. Some people use guitar strings. The passageways in the slow speed circuit may be clogged and need to be "poked". No amount of carb cleaner will work. Same thing with the high speed jet/orifice in the bowl, do a flashlight test. Check out my carb cleaning video if need be. If/once your convinced its super clean and the float it set properly and there's still a problem, start at the fuel tank and look for leaks, could be sucking air somewhere, a clear inline filter just before the fuel pump will help with seeing air bubbles in the line. Check/test the fuel pump and gasket behind the pump, tighten all the screws. It basically just becomes a process of elimination. Eliminate everything that can cause a fuel issue. You can look for leaks around the carb and intake by spraying some carb/brake cleaner around the gaskets while its running, you'll here a difference in rpm's if there's a leak. It's usually rare, but never assume anything with these things. If still no change move on to ignition. What may seem like a fuel issue could be an ignition problem and vice versa. For example, an ignition coil will test/ohm good when cold, but will start to break down when it warms up, then you think its a fuel issue because the coils tested good. Been there done that! Hahaha. I cleaned that carb 5 times before I realized it was a coil going bad. Try this. Visually check the plugs cold, hopefully they look the same, if not, there's the first clue. Do a spark test make sure they're both firing. Then start it up and run it until it won't run. Then pull one plug wire off and try to run it one cylinder at a time. Treat each cylinder like its two different motors. That will help narrow things down to which cylinder may be giving you problems. So that will get you started and you can do the ignition or the fuel first. it doesn't matter. Curious to know what you find out. Thanks again !
I thoroughly cleaned my carb, engine actually runs great, but I was able to turn my air bleed screw in all the way without ever getting a lean sneeze. I'm not sure what is different. After thinking about it more I think my idle is quite a bit lower than what you have set here. I'm going to raise it a bit and see what happens.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. The air bleed screw in the front of the carb is not adjustable. It's a fixed orifice and should be screwed in snug. If you loosen it, its probably sucking extra air and will slow down your idle. Thanks again & Stay Tuned!
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I hate when that happens! Same thing happened to me on my 90 30 horse Johnson. Found out about a service bulletin on it to set the slow speed timing on the throttle cam up passed the 2 marks about a 1/4 inch- so the carb butterfly would just start to open past the 2 marks. It worked! A seven year old could pull start that thing! What year is yours-
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 Mines is a 1997 (J30ELEUD). I tried that as well. The throttle cam is about 1/4 inch to the left of the 2 marks. It seems like it wants to start but wont. 🤦🏻♂️
@@jspecae86 Hey. Yes. When's the last time it ran right. Carb cleaned lately- slow speed circuit could be clogged- those tiny holes need to be poked or blown out- no amount of carb cleaner will work- some people use a guitar string to poke them out. Go back to basics- double check spark on both cylinders- you may have done all this already- I'm just going through the process of elimination- might have dropped a coil- it's either fuel or ignition- they tend to mimic each other!
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I usually set it just before the two marks on the throttle cam. So as the roller just starts to roll past the first mark and the butterfly just starts to open as the roller hits dead center between the two marks. Your all set. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Hey brother, now how do you do this on a 2001 115 johnson with 4 carbs?? trying to find the "sweet spot" seems like winning the lottery. Do I need to try to get a sneeze on each carb while adjusting? I can get her to warm idle for 2-3 min but once she comes down to a cold idle she piddles out after 30 seconds. Otherwise @ WOT shes like a bat outta hell. So far I have done the following: Rebuilt carbs w/new seals and manifold gaskets replaced power pack replaced spark plugs-->.030 gap replaced coils replaced spark wires replaced Optical sensor Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I know what you mean, its crazy. I have the same problem with my 92 3 cylinder 60 hp Johnson. And theres nothing in the omc manual other than "initial" setting of 2 full turns out on each carb. This method is gospel on these smaller outboards but I can't get it to work on a 3 cylinder. Cant get it to "sneeze" on any carb and trying to dial one carb in while the other two cylynders are running is near impossible. I always end up setting them back to 2 full initial turns. I'm also not sure this method will work on a 4 cylinder. You might find the correct procedure at iboats.com forums. My advice is to get a manual specific to your model, if you dont have one already try ebay for a good used one. It should tell you initial setting and maybe even more. Also if the slow speed idle circuits aren't super smoking clean you'll have problems. They often get overlooked. Curious to know what happens! Thanks again & Stay tuned !
I listened to my outboard and she wants it’s wet fuel mixture screws out 3 1/2 turns. I’ve tried to get it closer to 1 1/2 and she won’t even start with the fast idle lever lifted. So why fight it right? And yes carburetors have been off of her so many times and can do it in my sleep.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Well, you can't dial it in if it don't run. So you need to find out why it don't run. You have two systems, Fuel & Ignition, I like to start with ignition. Needs good even compression & good strong spark. Fuel system needs a super clean carburetor, if the jets in the carb are not "surgically clean" then it won't run. Good needle and float adjusted properly. Check out my carb cleaning video if need be. A good strong fuel pump, clean fuel lines and no air/fuel leaks. Synchronize the timing marks and carburetor. Set the slow speed needle to 1 & 1/2 turns out from seated and fire it up! If you still can't get it to run properly after these basic tune-up procedures then I would suggest getting an OMC manual specific to your year/model. It has a great troubleshooting section and will save you time diagnosing the symptoms it is having. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
So with this procedure, a timing light and wide open throttle on the lake checking timing and chancing getting killed or accidentally killing someone is NOT necessary correct? Today thanks to you I got the notches in line, wide open throttle accomplished, and a good idle. Thank you sir.
Don't mess with your high speed timing unless you think somebody screwed it up. If you think you need to check out my vids on the Joe Reeves WOT Timing Procedure. Thanks again !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 My apologies, still learning my way around a outboard. What is considered the high speed timing adjustment?? All I have adjusted today was the carb linkage on the carburetor itself. I adjusted the threaded collar on the throttle cable allowing me to center the 2 notches with the cam follower roller. I haven’t made any adjustments to the carb itself. Thanks again.
I got a Gale 5 hp 1961 for 25 bucks guy said he never started it in 12 years I took it home and put it in the tank started right up and then started acting up I thought it was the carburetor popped off the fly wheel and the coil was literally falling apart and there was a black spot underneath it cannot believe that thing even started thank you for the videos
wow mine runs really good, but my 2 cam notches are definitely off and the butterfly does not open all the way on wide open throttle. Looks like it time to make adjustments, it should run great after this video!! My cam roller is before those 2 notches yikes
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. The roller is fine before the two notches, as long as the carb butterfly just starts to open as the roller hits the middle of the notches. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
@@keithphillips1234 should be set to the right of the marks looking at the motor. This is the timing for slow/medium speed. Check the idle stop screw and adjust it.
Hello! Can you show the screws for adjusting it? I have a 1999 or 2000 50hp Johnson/Evinrude and it keeps losing rpm and dying on idle in the neutral position. I rebuilt the carburetor and adjusted the float, so I'm not sure why it's still dying on me. If anyone can give me their insights, I would appreciate it!
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. At 1:55 in the video is the slow speed idle adjusting screw. Could be a dozen different reasons why it won't idle. Best bet would be to get an omc manual specific to your year/model. It will show you how to set the timing and more! Plus a great troubleshooting section that will be more valuable than taking guesses at it. Try Ebay for a good used manual. Thanks again !
Wonder if you can help me with some advice, know nothing about these outboards and my son and I just bought an abandoned boat and motor. It's a johnson 25 HP, looks very similar to the one in the video only its a pull start. I can't read the model # on the tag on the mount bracket, is there another spot to look. Also this thing has been sitting at least 10 years, where should I start, would you have a video on something like that. Thanks
Hey. Thanks for tuning in! There is a silver/aluminum plug on the side of the powerhead, similar to a freeze plug but its not, it sometimes has the model # and the serial # on it. If its just one number that will be the serial # and its useless. Another thing you can try is google 25 hp johnson, click "images" and try to match the hood decals, that will put you in the ballpark for the year if it's the original hood. All these OMC small outboards are pretty much the same when it comes to getting them up and running, just different horse power. With any outboard the first thing you want to do is a compression test. If compression is good, 80-120+ psi, the rest it just a pain in the azz! Hahaha. Keep in mind, if compression is strangely low, it may be on just one cylinder, the the rings are probably stuck from sitting and need to be freed up. Once you have good compression you'll want to check for spark. Depending on the year it may be Points or Electronic ignition. Then fuel system, carb clean, fuel lines, fuel pump. And last but not least the cooling system, water pump/impeller, thermostat. I think a good place to start would be my 1962 18 hp Johnson, the "What it Takes" series in my playlist. It's an older outboard but it's all the basics. And the 2000 25 hp Johnson, the Worst Case of "Outboard Abuse" I've ever seen! Check out my Carb Cleaning video too, the "two most important things". If you want to post a "walk around" video on your channel I'd be happy to watch it. LMK! Thanks again & Stay tuned !
@THIS OLD OUTBOARD Thank you, I appreciate all that. Yes, the plug is just the one serial number. I will watch your other videos and do a little video walk around on mine. I have 0 experience with these 2 stroke engines, so i guess I'll learn as i go. Thanks for the help.
@@RLBisonRanch hey yeah it looks very familiar to me. looks like the two I have. the 89 tracker and the 93 evinrude, the beef it up build I'm doing. its hard to pin down a year. somewhere in the 90's. it looks like maybe the decal on the hood may have been painted over. maybe it can be cleaned off. the color and design of the decal would tell alot but I think you shouldn't have a problem with parts for it anything around 1990's should be fine. the early models had the power pack under the flywheel like my 89 then was mounted to the side like my 93. at 56 seconds in your video it looks like the temperature sensor has blown out, it must of overheated at some point. and I think thats the power pack under the wire coming from the heat sensor. so its probably mid to late 90's. and all those parts are the same like the coils and carb kits. Heres a couple of schematics, a 1995 and a 98. I just picked theses models be they are both rewind starter models. www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1995&hp=25&model=J25REOR www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1998&hp=25&model=J25RECB
@THIS OLD OUTBOARD hadn't noticed the heat sensor like that, do you need to pull the head to replace that? And might someone have run it with the water pump being bad or just rotten from sitting so long?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Compare the two sets of reeds, if the 35's are bigger you may want to swap them if they'll fit. I put a 35 carb from the late 70's on my 83-84 Evinrude 25, and nothing else, gained a solid 5 mph, it was a match made in heaven! Don't know what year/model it came off, it was on a 25 parts motor I bought. My 15' Duracraft would hydroplane. Here's some more info. Thanks again & Stay Tuned ! forums.iboats.com/threads/80s-johnson-evinrude-25hp-to-30-35hp-conversion-with-pics.516146/
Hey mate love your videos. My 25hp Johnson seems to surge at full speed. Funny thing is if I pump the bulb the motor runs fine. I did check all fuel lines and fuel pump and everything seems fine. I have redone the carby and checked the float twice so I'm stumped at this moment. Any advice or suggestion on what it could be? Could this be caused by a to rich mixture? Cheers
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Check the tank hose & connections, could be sucking air and/or the tank vent might be stuck closed, depending on the type of vent it has, if the tank can't breathe the pump will have a hard time pulling the fuel out. Pump may need a new diaphragm, rebuild kits are cheap! Check that gasket behind the pump too, screws need to be tight! Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. It really shouldn't but I've had some old outboards that need to be set that way no matter how clean the carb is (hint hint). As long as the butterfly starts to open at the timing marks you can set it the idle screw up a bit. I've always said, listen to your outboard, it will let you know what it likes! Thanks again & Stay tuned !
My fast speed adjustment screw (the small switch me in front of carb right above intake hole) rattles off or tight when motor is running causing it to die. When it’s two turns out motor runs perfect. Got new screw still doing the same thing, I keep having to remove cover and readjust on the water like after every speed run. Any tips?
Sounds like its missing the retainer on the slow speed needle, no high speed adjustments on these carbs. Go to marineengine.com and look up your year/model. Check the carburetor schematic for the retainer. Its best to get 2 or 3 of them so you have some on hand. Thanks again for tuning in!
Have a 92’ Johnson 28 SPL I removed all that damn foam. Damn stuff was all over motor, still finding a piece now and then. I think it’s a little louder, but don’t care.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Hmmm. I don't recall ever having that happen to me. I guess if your high speed "stop/timing screw" the one with the "rubber bumper", the "Screw your Never suppose to Screw with", is missing or so out of adjustment it could screw things up at wot. Double check that!!! If it's okay, then Bogging at WOT would most likely be the high speed jet/orifice in the carb bowl is clogged. It needs to be Surgically Clean! It often gets overlooked when cleaning a carb, just spraying carb cleaner through it will not work, check out my carb cleaning video if need be. Also make sure your carb float is adjusted properly and the needle is good. Go through the entire fuel system. Once your convinced that everything is working properly and you still have the same problem then I would look for an air leak somewhere. I know, it's a pain in the butt, but never assume anything with these things! Curious to know what you find out. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
I don't get why they banned two strokes here in California, but not out where you live they said they polute too much , yet the garbage trucks and busses we have here spew black smoke everywhere, go figure , it makes no sense .
use the tripod but with a piece of pvc with a "T" on Top,Extended 12-16"on both Sides,Keeps Top RidgeSpread Over a Larger Area,No Poke Thru of Top,(Put Pieces of old Pool noodle on the Horiz.Supports Works Real Good!!!!!!!!And Go Fishing!!!!You Don,t LIVE Forever....FISH ON
I’ve had this exact motor for the last 14 years...J25TELSSD...these videos have helped me out big time! I broke down and bought THEE parts and THEE service manuals for it and I’m not in anyway trying to be a “know it all”. Just sharing info. Page 3-71 says initial idle speed start point is 2&1/2 turns out for this motor. Mine seems to do good there, but understand they all have their idiosyncrasies. I’ve followed these videos on this motor from the get go. So far this year I’ve replaced the power pack, coils, starter solenoid, plug wires, rectifier, thermostat, complete water pump, carb rebuild and lower unit gear oil. Thanks for the great videos! It really helped me get this thing running like a sewing machine. I wish I could show you a video of it running. Now I just gotta find me some big Wye River crabs! Happy Boating!...Bill
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. Yes, "initial" setting/adjustment. Like I said in the video, or "captioned". These are just the basic settings, but, the lean sneeze procedure is Gospel! My 60 hp also says 2 turns out "initial" setting. But it was smoking so bad I set it back to 1+ 1/2. I go through the same thing with the manuals also. But, I believe the manuals are written for outboards a little more "recently" out of the factory. After 20-30-40 years your not dealing with something just off the assembly line anymore. That's why I said all outboards are not the same and to listen to it. It will tell you what it likes! Some do better with a little more and some with less. I've followed manual procedures til it drove me crazy, and could only set it where It wanted to run. Hahaha. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 I’m gonna fine tune it if need be once I get in the water per your example-thanks again!
@@TheSteelworker if it ain't broke don't fix it!
Just a note on the Omc with the primer, always push it all the way in when the motor is warm. if not it will pull fuel and be rich.
Thanks for tuning in!
You all are living the good life,right on get down .love your knowledge on outboards ,I'm a mechanic myself but love your videos on outboard ,s I love them too, keep it coming good stuff thanx
Hey. Thanks for tuning in!
Just scored a 1995 Evinrude 25 for $100. It had no spark so I guess the previous owner thought it was the CDI as it was unbolted and left loose. The only issue it had was corroded plug from CDI to coils etc.
Starts and runs fine.
Unfortunately more people don't watch videos like yours to see these engines are really simple to fix just need to apply one's self.
I also got a 78 25hp for $100 that's been abused but has a good Power head. The prop won't turn so seems terminal in the gearbox.
Good for parts. Thanks heaps for your videos chief your bloods worth bottling 👍
Hahaha! Thanks for tuning in. Yeah I'm gonna leave my body to science fiction!
Thanks again and Stay Tuned !
Really enjoy your video that helps me work on my old 2001 Johnson 25hp 2 stroke, really don't have the money for a new Mercury.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Yeah I know the feeling.
Great Video! Thanks for explaining these adjustment! I've learned more from your video than years of messing with them!
Hey. Thanks for watching & commenting. Stay tuned !
I just wanted to say thank you for being detailed in your video and explaining everything as you do it at the same time...pretty sure one of those is my issue with my 20 hp Johnson outboard but either way really informative and useful for future situations but once again thank you sir and please keep it up, so people like my self can learn this shit and appreciate it
Hey. Thank you for watching and commenting. Stay tuned !
Thank you TOO! This video helped me figure out how to set my timing! Perfect for what I needed....👍👍
Glad it helped!
Awesome info sir. Going to work on my 25hp now and see what MY issue is lol.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in!
Awesome great job as always 👍🏻🤘🏻
Thanks again!
Love watching all of your videos can't wait to see a big bass on the new pole.. nice use of what you have and make it work
Hey. Thanks 👍! I might head out there, its gettin hot though. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 I won't miss a show.
The master of Outboard Tinkering back at it
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. Stay tuned !
Your video is amazing… good information. I have a 1998 25hp Omc and I can’t figure out why it doesn’t run properly. I got it running have 115 compression in both cylinders. New plugs, cleaned carb, motors in great conndition upon visual inspection, but it starts and won’t stay running. It will rev up but then bog, and then act like it’s lean other times. Played with the low speed and idle for lots of time now and can’t seem to get her to stay running after she warms up
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I would go back to basics. Clean that carb again! You can get a set of welding tip cleaning tools from the big box stores for about $6. Some people use guitar strings. The passageways in the slow speed circuit may be clogged and need to be "poked". No amount of carb cleaner will work. Same thing with the high speed jet/orifice in the bowl, do a flashlight test. Check out my carb cleaning video if need be. If/once your convinced its super clean and the float it set properly and there's still a problem, start at the fuel tank and look for leaks, could be sucking air somewhere, a clear inline filter just before the fuel pump will help with seeing air bubbles in the line. Check/test the fuel pump and gasket behind the pump, tighten all the screws. It basically just becomes a process of elimination. Eliminate everything that can cause a fuel issue. You can look for leaks around the carb and intake by spraying some carb/brake cleaner around the gaskets while its running, you'll here a difference in rpm's if there's a leak. It's usually rare, but never assume anything with these things. If still no change move on to ignition. What may seem like a fuel issue could be an ignition problem and vice versa. For example, an ignition coil will test/ohm good when cold, but will start to break down when it warms up, then you think its a fuel issue because the coils tested good. Been there done that! Hahaha. I cleaned that carb 5 times before I realized it was a coil going bad. Try this. Visually check the plugs cold, hopefully they look the same, if not, there's the first clue. Do a spark test make sure they're both firing. Then start it up and run it until it won't run. Then pull one plug wire off and try to run it one cylinder at a time. Treat each cylinder like its two different motors. That will help narrow things down to which cylinder may be giving you problems. So that will get you started and you can do the ignition or the fuel first. it doesn't matter. Curious to know what you find out. Thanks again !
Cool vlog finally made it to grills I gotta come over there and try it out catch you next time
Hey Joe. Yeah check it out! Thanks again !
Good to see you tinkering with an old 25 again 👍
Hey. Yeah! Thanks !
I thoroughly cleaned my carb, engine actually runs great, but I was able to turn my air bleed screw in all the way without ever getting a lean sneeze. I'm not sure what is different.
After thinking about it more I think my idle is quite a bit lower than what you have set here. I'm going to raise it a bit and see what happens.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. The air bleed screw in the front of the carb is not adjustable. It's a fixed orifice and should be screwed in snug. If you loosen it, its probably sucking extra air and will slow down your idle. Thanks again & Stay Tuned!
Great video. However, I have remove the carburetor....gasket is shot. how do I get to the right bolt?
Hey. Thanks again. You have to pull the starter off. Pain in the butt!
I wish I could see your technique on all the fine adjustments. Been working on my 30hp Johnson for 2-days and the damn thing wont start anymore. 😩
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I hate when that happens! Same thing happened to me on my 90 30 horse Johnson. Found out about a service bulletin on it to set the slow speed timing on the throttle cam up passed the 2 marks about a 1/4 inch- so the carb butterfly would just start to open past the 2 marks. It worked! A seven year old could pull start that thing! What year is yours-
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 Mines is a 1997 (J30ELEUD). I tried that as well. The throttle cam is about 1/4 inch to the left of the 2 marks. It seems like it wants to start but wont. 🤦🏻♂️
@@jspecae86 That bulletin was for early 90's if I'm not mistaken
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 Oh so you think I should not do that then and just line the cam with the marks and try again?
@@jspecae86 Hey. Yes. When's the last time it ran right. Carb cleaned lately- slow speed circuit could be clogged- those tiny holes need to be poked or blown out- no amount of carb cleaner will work- some people use a guitar string to poke them out. Go back to basics- double check spark on both cylinders- you may have done all this already- I'm just going through the process of elimination- might have dropped a coil- it's either fuel or ignition- they tend to mimic each other!
Sounds like it’s running much better now!
Thanks again for tuning in!
This man teaches me a lot of tricks this man has forgotten more than most no
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. Stay tuned !
Great video ! Is there any way you can show where the idle stop screw should be situated ? In the video the starter is in the way
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I usually set it just before the two marks on the throttle cam. So as the roller just starts to roll past the first mark and the butterfly just starts to open as the roller hits dead center between the two marks. Your all set. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Hey brother, now how do you do this on a 2001 115 johnson with 4 carbs?? trying to find the "sweet spot" seems like winning the lottery. Do I need to try to get a sneeze on each carb while adjusting? I can get her to warm idle for 2-3 min but once she comes down to a cold idle she piddles out after 30 seconds. Otherwise @ WOT shes like a bat outta hell. So far I have done the following:
Rebuilt carbs w/new seals and manifold gaskets
replaced power pack
replaced spark plugs-->.030 gap
replaced coils
replaced spark wires
replaced Optical sensor
Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I know what you mean, its crazy. I have the same problem with my 92 3 cylinder 60 hp Johnson. And theres nothing in the omc manual other than "initial" setting of 2 full turns out on each carb. This method is gospel on these smaller outboards but I can't get it to work on a 3 cylinder. Cant get it to "sneeze" on any carb and trying to dial one carb in while the other two cylynders are running is near impossible. I always end up setting them back to 2 full initial turns. I'm also not sure this method will work on a 4 cylinder. You might find the correct procedure at iboats.com forums. My advice is to get a manual specific to your model, if you dont have one already try ebay for a good used one. It should tell you initial setting and maybe even more. Also if the slow speed idle circuits aren't super smoking clean you'll have problems. They often get overlooked. Curious to know what happens! Thanks again & Stay tuned !
I listened to my outboard and she wants it’s wet fuel mixture screws out 3 1/2 turns. I’ve tried to get it closer to 1 1/2 and she won’t even start with the fast idle lever lifted. So why fight it right? And yes carburetors have been off of her so many times and can do it in my sleep.
Yep! She'll tell you! Hahaha Thanks again !
What about if we can’t get the motor to idle long enough to actually mess with the idle speed screw?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Well, you can't dial it in if it don't run. So you need to find out why it don't run. You have two systems, Fuel & Ignition, I like to start with ignition. Needs good even compression & good strong spark. Fuel system needs a super clean carburetor, if the jets in the carb are not "surgically clean" then it won't run. Good needle and float adjusted properly. Check out my carb cleaning video if need be. A good strong fuel pump, clean fuel lines and no air/fuel leaks. Synchronize the timing marks and carburetor. Set the slow speed needle to 1 & 1/2 turns out from seated and fire it up! If you still can't get it to run properly after these basic tune-up procedures then I would suggest getting an OMC manual specific to your year/model. It has a great troubleshooting section and will save you time diagnosing the symptoms it is having. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
So with this procedure, a timing light and wide open throttle on the lake checking timing and chancing getting killed or accidentally killing someone is NOT necessary correct?
Today thanks to you I got the notches in line, wide open throttle accomplished, and a good idle. Thank you sir.
Hey. Thank you. Really appreciate you tuning in.
Don't mess with your high speed timing unless you think somebody screwed it up. If you think you need to check out my vids on the Joe Reeves WOT Timing Procedure. Thanks again !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 My apologies, still learning my way around a outboard. What is considered the high speed timing adjustment??
All I have adjusted today was the carb linkage on the carburetor itself.
I adjusted the threaded collar on the throttle cable allowing me to center the 2 notches with the cam follower roller.
I haven’t made any adjustments to the carb itself.
Thanks again.
The lean sneeze. Good tip
Hey. lean sneeze, hiccup, burp, fart. Whatever it may sound like! Hahaha Thanks again !
I got a Gale 5 hp 1961 for 25 bucks guy said he never started it in 12 years I took it home and put it in the tank started right up and then started acting up I thought it was the carburetor popped off the fly wheel and the coil was literally falling apart and there was a black spot underneath it cannot believe that thing even started thank you for the videos
Yeah. I know, its crazy! Hahaha Thanks !
Is it normal for these not to have fuel filters? Picked up a 93 Johnson can’t find the fuel filter?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. There is a filter screen in the fuel pump inlet cover. And you can add an inline filter if you want. Thanks again !
Good stuff!
Glad you enjoyed it!
wow mine runs really good, but my 2 cam notches are definitely off and the butterfly does not open all the way on wide open throttle. Looks like it time to make adjustments, it should run great after this video!! My cam roller is before those 2 notches yikes
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. The roller is fine before the two notches, as long as the carb butterfly just starts to open as the roller hits the middle of the notches. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
@@keithphillips1234 should be set to the right of the marks looking at the motor. This is the timing for slow/medium speed. Check the idle stop screw and adjust it.
Hello! Can you show the screws for adjusting it? I have a 1999 or 2000 50hp Johnson/Evinrude and it keeps losing rpm and dying on idle in the neutral position. I rebuilt the carburetor and adjusted the float, so I'm not sure why it's still dying on me. If anyone can give me their insights, I would appreciate it!
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. At 1:55 in the video is the slow speed idle adjusting screw. Could be a dozen different reasons why it won't idle. Best bet would be to get an omc manual specific to your year/model. It will show you how to set the timing and more! Plus a great troubleshooting section that will be more valuable than taking guesses at it. Try Ebay for a good used manual. Thanks again !
Where are you at in Florida? I'm having some issues with my 28spl and wanted to pick your brain a little.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I'm in Orlando!
I use my paddle to prop up my cover, when I take the cover off I just put the paddle in it’s holder.
Hey. Good idea! Thanks again for tuning in!
Wonder if you can help me with some advice, know nothing about these outboards and my son and I just bought an abandoned boat and motor. It's a johnson 25 HP, looks very similar to the one in the video only its a pull start. I can't read the model # on the tag on the mount bracket, is there another spot to look. Also this thing has been sitting at least 10 years, where should I start, would you have a video on something like that. Thanks
Hey. Thanks for tuning in! There is a silver/aluminum plug on the side of the powerhead, similar to a freeze plug but its not, it sometimes has the model # and the serial # on it. If its just one number that will be the serial # and its useless. Another thing you can try is google 25 hp johnson, click "images" and try to match the hood decals, that will put you in the ballpark for the year if it's the original hood. All these OMC small outboards are pretty much the same when it comes to getting them up and running, just different horse power. With any outboard the first thing you want to do is a compression test. If compression is good, 80-120+ psi, the rest it just a pain in the azz! Hahaha. Keep in mind, if compression is strangely low, it may be on just one cylinder, the the rings are probably stuck from sitting and need to be freed up. Once you have good compression you'll want to check for spark. Depending on the year it may be Points or Electronic ignition. Then fuel system, carb clean, fuel lines, fuel pump. And last but not least the cooling system, water pump/impeller, thermostat. I think a good place to start would be my 1962 18 hp Johnson, the "What it Takes" series in my playlist. It's an older outboard but it's all the basics. And the 2000 25 hp Johnson, the Worst Case of "Outboard Abuse" I've ever seen! Check out my Carb Cleaning video too, the "two most important things". If you want to post a "walk around" video on your channel I'd be happy to watch it. LMK! Thanks again & Stay tuned !
@THIS OLD OUTBOARD Thank you, I appreciate all that. Yes, the plug is just the one serial number. I will watch your other videos and do a little video walk around on mine. I have 0 experience with these 2 stroke engines, so i guess I'll learn as i go. Thanks for the help.
@THIS OLD OUTBOARD I went out and made a quick walk around video. Maybe it might look familiar to you. Thanks
ua-cam.com/video/E7wg3Yz60Ro/v-deo.html
@@RLBisonRanch hey yeah it looks very familiar to me. looks like the two I have. the 89 tracker and the 93 evinrude, the beef it up build I'm doing. its hard to pin down a year. somewhere in the 90's. it looks like maybe the decal on the hood may have been painted over. maybe it can be cleaned off. the color and design of the decal would tell alot but I think you shouldn't have a problem with parts for it anything around 1990's should be fine. the early models had the power pack under the flywheel like my 89 then was mounted to the side like my 93. at 56 seconds in your video it looks like the temperature sensor has blown out, it must of overheated at some point. and I think thats the power pack under the wire coming from the heat sensor. so its probably mid to late 90's. and all those parts are the same like the coils and carb kits. Heres a couple of schematics, a 1995 and a 98. I just picked theses models be they are both rewind starter models. www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1995&hp=25&model=J25REOR
www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1998&hp=25&model=J25RECB
@THIS OLD OUTBOARD hadn't noticed the heat sensor like that, do you need to pull the head to replace that? And might someone have run it with the water pump being bad or just rotten from sitting so long?
Do you have to use the 35hp Reed plates for the conversion? Also I have a late 70s 35hp carb will that work on my 1991 25?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Compare the two sets of reeds, if the 35's are bigger you may want to swap them if they'll fit. I put a 35 carb from the late 70's on my 83-84 Evinrude 25, and nothing else, gained a solid 5 mph, it was a match made in heaven! Don't know what year/model it came off, it was on a 25 parts motor I bought. My 15' Duracraft would hydroplane. Here's some more info. Thanks again & Stay Tuned !
forums.iboats.com/threads/80s-johnson-evinrude-25hp-to-30-35hp-conversion-with-pics.516146/
Ok thanks for the info!!
Having same issues with 2009 merc? Will look at it once plugs are changed.
Sounds good! Thanks for watching and commenting !
Hey mate love your videos. My 25hp Johnson seems to surge at full speed. Funny thing is if I pump the bulb the motor runs fine. I did check all fuel lines and fuel pump and everything seems fine. I have redone the carby and checked the float twice so I'm stumped at this moment. Any advice or suggestion on what it could be? Could this be caused by a to rich mixture? Cheers
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Check the tank hose & connections, could be sucking air and/or the tank vent might be stuck closed, depending on the type of vent it has, if the tank can't breathe the pump will have a hard time pulling the fuel out. Pump may need a new diaphragm, rebuild kits are cheap! Check that gasket behind the pump too, screws need to be tight! Thanks again & Stay tuned !
should the carb butterfly be opened a little for the engine to idle
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. It really shouldn't but I've had some old outboards that need to be set that way no matter how clean the carb is (hint hint). As long as the butterfly starts to open at the timing marks you can set it the idle screw up a bit. I've always said, listen to your outboard, it will let you know what it likes! Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Thank I'll clean it again and go from there
My fast speed adjustment screw (the small switch me in front of carb right above intake hole) rattles off or tight when motor is running causing it to die. When it’s two turns out motor runs perfect. Got new screw still doing the same thing, I keep having to remove cover and readjust on the water like after every speed run. Any tips?
Sounds like its missing the retainer on the slow speed needle, no high speed adjustments on these carbs. Go to marineengine.com and look up your year/model. Check the carburetor schematic for the retainer. Its best to get 2 or 3 of them so you have some on hand. Thanks again for tuning in!
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 Thank you very much and I’ll update.
Have a 92’ Johnson 28 SPL I removed all that damn foam. Damn stuff was all over motor, still finding a piece now and then. I think it’s a little louder, but don’t care.
Hey. Yeah. Mine just leaves a layer of dust. I'm going to spray a clear coat on it and see if that works. Thanks again !
Will timing cause bogging at wot?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Hmmm. I don't recall ever having that happen to me. I guess if your high speed "stop/timing screw" the one with the "rubber bumper", the "Screw your Never suppose to Screw with", is missing or so out of adjustment it could screw things up at wot. Double check that!!! If it's okay, then Bogging at WOT would most likely be the high speed jet/orifice in the carb bowl is clogged. It needs to be Surgically Clean! It often gets overlooked when cleaning a carb, just spraying carb cleaner through it will not work, check out my carb cleaning video if need be. Also make sure your carb float is adjusted properly and the needle is good. Go through the entire fuel system. Once your convinced that everything is working properly and you still have the same problem then I would look for an air leak somewhere. I know, it's a pain in the butt, but never assume anything with these things! Curious to know what you find out. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Have a good weekend!
You too! Thanks for tuning in!
Put a cut in a tennis ball and place it over the top of the tri-pod
Hey. Yeah I did, it works great! Thanks !
What I want to know is do they make a 3 stroke in the morning. Hahaha😁
Hahaha. Thanks again !
I don't get why they banned two strokes here in California, but not out where you live they said they polute too much , yet the garbage trucks and busses we have here spew black smoke everywhere, go figure , it makes no sense .
Yeah. go figure! Thanks for tuning in!
use the tripod but with a piece of pvc with a "T" on Top,Extended 12-16"on both Sides,Keeps Top RidgeSpread Over a Larger Area,No Poke Thru of Top,(Put Pieces of old Pool noodle on the Horiz.Supports Works Real Good!!!!!!!!And Go Fishing!!!!You Don,t LIVE Forever....FISH ON
Hahaha. That's a great idea! thanks !
Where's the sleeping bag!?!
In my storage unit! Hahaha Thanks for tuning in!
Yeah baby.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in!
🙂 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks !
👍🎣🐟🌊💯
Thanks again !
Oh duh.....2000 Johnson hp motor (just like the one in your"
'2000 25 Hp Johnson. Fix my Outboard! Carburetor & Timing. THIS OLD OUTBOARD' video).
Hey. Thanks for tuning in!
🇺🇲⚫🔵⚫🇺🇲
Thanks again !
🇺🇲⚫🔴⚫🇺🇲
Thanks again !
Do you have a social media page where I can message you?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Nope, this is it! If I can help with something just ask away! Thanks again !