I am so glad that you opened up the solder joints for us to see what the coverage was it was very enlightening. A lot of instructors would not waste their time but you my friend go the extra mile for your students. THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
I was just about ready to solder my 1/2" Cu Ball Valve, but stopped and said to myself "Do a quick reminder of the best practices by listening to your fav CA plumber on UA-cam". Glad I did! Thanks for sharing your expertise!
You cannot call yourself a master, unless you’re willing to say that there’s always something more to learn. We learn until we die. Ive been in this industry for almost 10 years now, and it wouldn’t matter if it were 100 years. I am always looking to improve my work, so big shout out to you brother. Keep up the good work, your videos are solid!
*Your channel delivers.* After trying to watch a few other pipe-soldering videos, I keep coming back here and shaking my head at how awful they all are! This content is super-helpful. Thanks ;)
Great tutorial videos - thank you very much! I'm a DIY-er, but have limited experience in plumbing. Thanks to your instruction, I completed a plumbing modification with 34 sweat joints and 2 new isolation valves - no leaks, and no damage to the valve seats. Couldn't have done it without your excellent guidance.
The technique you used in this video are exactly the the way i have been soldering for 35 years , it's more or less common sense . I have never burnt a valve up due to improper heat position ! But glad you've put it out there for others to see !
You are the Man! I’m a retired old school son of a plumber and had a torch in my hand before I could ride a bike. I help out family on the usual home plumbing and these values have been driving me crazy with leaks. I changed out my flux and solder, used your technique and bam! No leaks. Thanks so much, glad I came across your channel. Keep up the good work.
Outstanding - got it. I appreciate learning about the lower temp 410F solder and torching away from the valve center. UA-cam video is just what the doctor ordered; live and learn all the time.
Good job. I’ve always heated my pipe first, even on regular copper fittings because that will prevent overheating of the fittings and actually makes the process quicker.
I’ve also watched many soldering videos and yours are by far the best. Thorough, but not too much information. Just the right amount. There really is not substitute for experience, and since I only solder with occasional problems or new water heater installation, I have to review every time I have a new project. Someone with no experience should practice a few times on cheapest fittings they can find and be prepared to fail a time or two with valves before you get it right. Thanks for the excellent videos!
Thank you for this and all your videos! This hits the nail on the head of what my problem was with these valves. Run 80 ft of copper, stop counting at, 70 joints only leaks at these dumb valves. The irony is I put the valves in in case I got a leak in the other plumbing. Converting bedroom in 55 year old house into full master bath, 7 fixtures. Thanks again for your videos, you are the, Coppergod!
Your videos are always straight to the point and concise. And the demonstrational cut of the fittings to show the solder coverage was extremely helpful. Thank you for going the extra mile!
just used this technique this weekend on a rerouting of hot and cold, put in the shut offs using your method and worked flawless. You saved me time and headache. Appreciate you passing on your knowledge. Best instruction on you tube for sure.
Your videos are simply the best out there. I am about to solder 3 ball valves for whole house filter. I am glad I found this as now I will buy the Sterling solder. I already switched to tinning solder a while back and love it. Interesting some of these ball valves have no packing nut anymore.
I am replacing my traditional hot water heater with a tankless hot water heater. I have to replace some of the 3/4 inch copper pipes and adding two new valves. I have watched so many of your videos and they are the best on UA-cam. Thank you so much my friend and keep up the good work. I liked and subbed so I don't miss out on future videos.
Excellent presentation. A plumbing pipe industry tutorial on soldering lead-free fittings suggested another best practice is following the solder around the joint with the torch flame to ensure better flow and coverage. Hard to do near a wall stud! I had six leaks on a half dozen soldered copper fittings installing new water supply pipes! Yes, I am a carpenter.
I am glad I searched your videos and found this. My house was built in 1962 and has the old shut offs with the handle the same as outdoor faucets and do not shut off properly plus some of them leak through the seal on the shaft when turned on or off. Thanks for another great video.
Installing a water softener and just checking some vids to refresh me as I am a DIYer and I must say this presentation was concise and thorough with no filler! Great stuff. Subbed and liked!
I just replaced all of the galvanized plumbing in my house with copper last week. Thanks for all of your tips. I had a couple leaks (didn’t get full coverage in the joints) but I knew why and how to fix them thanks to your videos.
Excellent instruction as always! I'm amazed that you soldered with the handle cover on - I fried one once years ago (first time, overheating like a greenhorn) and now I always remove them before sweating. Once bitten, twice shy! Thanks again!
THANK YOU!!! I had tried to solder the valve two times before finding your video. The big thing that helped was the low temp solder and flux with solder. Also the angle of your torch is a great tip. So far my join does not have a leak.
Awesome video - I am just a DIY person & these valves were a challenge to solder. By accident I managed to use the steps you recommended except I did not think of using the low heat flux. I will make sure to get some for next time.
I wish I saw this video before installing my water heater. I had a swing check valve that leaked. I couldn't figure out why is was so much more difficult to solder then the standard joints. I really appreciate your quick and to the point vids.
Thank you so much for all these videos. Soldered some joints for the first time today. Took out a stubout, added a cap and a copper to PEX adapter. Pressurized to see exactly where it had a pinhole leak. Wanted to inspect and think there are several ares of horizontal sections that need or be repaired.
I certainly learned more than I thought I would. Great video for all home owner diy'ers. Products and techniques change in the wink of an eye. What was a common procedure from 'your' last plumbing repair/install from as little as 6 months ago, can be outdated and even substandard today.
So Julio, today I was in the shop and I came up with an experiment that has yielded quantitative data that might be of interest. I pretty much follow your technique in soldering ball valves to the letter, with good success so far. I was curious as to what temperature this technique was exposing the valve bodies to, based on our other conversation regarding valve seats. So today I grabbed a couple of Apollo lead-free cast bronze 3/4" valves (77-CLF-A) and some 3/4" type M copper hard tubing, and started soldering with my trusty propane pencil torch (using straight propane), some Sterling Premium LF solder and #95 tinning flux. These valves are marketed as made of "EZ-Solder Lead Free Bronze" (containing bismuth) which is supposed to solder nearly identically to traditional alloys containing lead. After soldering each valve to my satisfaction using the preheat-pipe-first-then-heat-the-valve-cup method, I used a laboratory contact thermocouple and a Fluke digital temperature meter to measure the temperature of the valve body immediately after soldering. In each case, I did not use any cooling around the valve body (no wet rag, etc) and the valve body temperature did not exceed 350 degree Fahrenheit immediately after soldering. I'm very pleased to report, as per our previous thread exchange regarding the melting temperature of various valve seats. I try to stick with high quality ball valves from Apollo, Nibco, Milwaukee, etc and these typically have seats comprised of reinforced PTFE, whose melting temperature is around 620 degrees F. What this tells me is that for the 3/4" valves I tested, the method you recommend, when performed correctly with a conservative torch and fuel combination that does not produce excessive heat rapidly, appears to be well within the margin of safety for cast bronze LF valves (typically valve body temperatures not exceeding 500F), even without any valve body cooling applied (no wet rag). Keep in mind that some lead-free forged brass valve manufacturers (i.e. Apollo) recommend that LF forged brass valve body temperature should not exceed 300F during soldering, thus some method of keeping these valves cool (like a wet rag) would likely be a good idea since in both case my results exceeded that. Also, results may be different with other valves, such as Nibco, which use LF alloys containing silicon and have different thermal conductivity than alloys containing bismuth such as the ones I tested. Hope this information is useful.
Yes, this is why is SUPER important to read the manufacture directions on how to solder THEIR particular valves! Thanks again for all the great information Stiletto, it's fun to see you investigating this, love it!!!
This was a fantastic video and extremely informative. I really liked your 'exploded' cut-away sectionals of the pipe and valve portions showing coverage within the connection.
Thanks for the plumbing videos and illustrations. Lead free meaning no lead solder, pipe, and fittings are the only type to use on potable water lines!☺
Nice solder coverage at the end. Many times I have taken apart fittings that were done by someone else and upon looking at the solder I find that it was only connected in a thin small strip. Sometimes when I do my own I pre- tin as much as possible to insure it is thoroughly soldered. I need to try some of the ways you use. You got it down good.
Wow thanks for sharing dude! You're a good educator because you don't just say do it because i said so like some tradesmen. I appreciate your thoroughness.
I wish you had this video out last year. 🤣 It took me sooo long to get the joints to accept solder. Lots of reapplying flux and lots of gas wasted.(In reality it was only a few minutes. But when you're used to soldering copper only taking a few seconds, it seemed like hours!)
Great, thanks, especially about your comments about the valve seal and the initial heating of the copper pipe & the positioning of the torch (and damp cloth wrap tip); thereafter, so as to not compromise the plastic seal.
Very interesting and thanks for sharing such a good video. Your video is so convincing that I never stop myself from saying something about it. You’re doing a great job. Keep it up.
This is a great video.I have had the misfortune of applying too much heat when soldering half inch ball valves and the result was that the ball valves blew out and I had to desolder the ball valve and start all over with a new half inch ball valve.Now to avoid blowing out half inch ball valves I use a torch with a pencil tube to ensure that I do not over heat the ball valves.Thank you for the video,God bless you and yours.
You always do a good Job with your videos I've learn alot but theres some stuff like soldering i wish i could actually do with someone teaching like you said it takes time.
Thought of a question: That low-temp solder is quite expensive. For risk-averse beginning DIY solderers like myself, would it be just as well to get a ball valve with female threads on each end, then screw them into copper pipes which I previously terminated with male thread fittings? This would keep heat well away from the valve. Thx.
Yeah lead is SOOOO much easier to work with, it just comes at a price (our health) and it's a good thing that companies are starting to make a move, thank you so much Viper6, passe une belle journee!!!
i am not a plumber but somehow i enjoy watching you content and learning plumbing knowledge which i am sure i will never use because i live in india where all pipes are 100%pvc.
I wish I watch this 2 weeks ago. I just changed out one of these ball valves and ran into a week at after I got done with it. I still need to go back and deal with it but I got my hands full out there that is far from the biggest problem. That's actually the smallest problem
Will be changing my water shut off valve this week because I can't afford a plumber. I have some experience with plumbing so I hope it all goes smoothly 😃
Just make sure the valve is visible and accessible so that when the little O ring inside the SharkBite fitting that holds back the water eventually fails, you'll know about it before catastrophic flooding occurs in your home.
At 5:20 there wasn't any expanding of the copper pipe to close up the gap. Earlier in the video you were saying to heat up the pipe until it expands and takes up all of the gap. I don't like the idea of forcing the pipe to expand because once it cools it's going to want to shrink back down. What are your thoughts? Very helpful quality video by the way!
The biggest problem I've had with soldering ball valves is overheating the valve and damaging the seal so that it won't shut off completely. On one job, after I ruined the second valve, I said the heck with it and went with the Shark Bite. It worked fine, opens and closes completely and no leaks. I worry about 10 or 20 years down the road, but it solved my immediate problem.
I'm not confident in soldering ball valves, and I don't trust Sharkbites. My solution? Sweat a male adapter onto the copper pipe, and use a FPT ball valve.
I might have learned something. A couple of years ago I replaced my shut off valve coming into the house. It is vertical. I made the top connection with no problem whatsoever but I never could get the bottom one to draw up into the valve. I gave up and used a shark bite to get the water back on. If the shark bite fails I will try your tips.
Does it matter which way the ball valve is facing? It looks like the pressurized part of the water pipe was on the left, and the valve body has a section that unscrews on the right (in order to install the ball and two seals inside). The center of the valve body and the left side (in this video) were cast as one piece.
This is another great and comprehensive video mate. Quick question. I have a 3/4" ball valve which has water on 1 side (live system), so the ball valve is in the closed position. I'm concerned about how solder on the dry side if the cold water on the wet side will not allow the dry side to get the correct temp. Any advice or change of process to solder a new 3/4" line onto the dry side?
I have a valve I want to replace. It's in tight quarters. I can move one of the pipes away if I can get that end unsoldered. Do you recommend soldering the new valve to to the unsoldered pipe, or just cutting the old valve off and using a splice and new section of pipe?
Or you could us looselywrapped flats of steel from the steel cans used in vegetables, although not all cans are steel. Also time on point under the handle need not be long if you heat a little longer on each side of the handle due to conduction. Quod erat demonstrandum.
Do you usually just call the manufacturer to find out their recommendations on whether or not the LF ball valve should be opened, half-opened or closed? And I did learn a number of things, thanks.
can tinting flux and lower melting point solder use on both leaded and lead free component? once i soldered, none of the joints leak, only the silicon elbow from home depot had bleeding drips.
great video !! Where was this in 2014 When i was learning !!! i blew out many seals improper heating or over heating the valves !! $$ AWESOME VIDEO 100% RECOMMEND!
40 year retired Union Plumber/Welding Inspector. Great video and beautifully soldered joints.
🤗🤗🤗
I am so glad that you opened up the solder joints for us to see what the coverage was it was very enlightening. A lot of instructors would not waste their time but you my friend go the extra mile for your students. THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
You are most welcome Eugene!!! 🤗🤗🤗
I was just about ready to solder my 1/2" Cu Ball Valve, but stopped and said to myself "Do a quick reminder of the best practices by listening to your fav CA plumber on UA-cam". Glad I did! Thanks for sharing your expertise!
You are most welcome 🙏
You cannot call yourself a master, unless you’re willing to say that there’s always something more to learn. We learn until we die. Ive been in this industry for almost 10 years now, and it wouldn’t matter if it were 100 years. I am always looking to improve my work, so big shout out to you brother. Keep up the good work, your videos are solid!
🙏🙏🙏
I've watched dozens of videos on this tonight, and yours is by far the best!! The animations are amazing!
Thanks Eric 😇😇😇
*Your channel delivers.* After trying to watch a few other pipe-soldering videos, I keep coming back here and shaking my head at how awful they all are! This content is super-helpful. Thanks ;)
😇😇😇
Agreed, the other vids were pretty bad compared to this one.
@dustman96 😇👍
Great tutorial videos - thank you very much! I'm a DIY-er, but have limited experience in plumbing. Thanks to your instruction, I completed a plumbing modification with 34 sweat joints and 2 new isolation valves - no leaks, and no damage to the valve seats. Couldn't have done it without your excellent guidance.
This is the BEST sweating video I have ever seen. Thanks from a true DIYer that had a plumbing issue on a holiday weekend!
@@govbrief5651 🔥🔥🔥
Dude, if you keep going like this I believe you're heading to become the ... PREMIER PLUMBING CHANNEL on YT. I'm loving your animation work.
😃😃😃😃😃 I have no intent on stawwping, that would be crazyyyyyy!!!! Thank you so much!!!
Whats up against any producer here is the busted UA-cam AL, it there to smack you down if you get too big
Stop it. You’re too good!
The technique you used in this video are exactly the the way i have been soldering for 35 years , it's more or less common sense . I have never burnt a valve up due to improper heat position ! But glad you've put it out there for others to see !
Thank you sooo much Kenneth!!
Common sense isn’t that common anymore…
You are the Man! I’m a retired old school son of a plumber and had a torch in my hand before I could ride a bike. I help out family on the usual home plumbing and these values have been driving me crazy with leaks. I changed out my flux and solder, used your technique and bam! No leaks. Thanks so much, glad I came across your channel. Keep up the good work.
Awesomeeee, thank you so so much!!!
Great endorsement!!
Outstanding - got it. I appreciate learning about the lower temp 410F solder and torching away from the valve center. UA-cam video is just what the doctor ordered; live and learn all the time.
👌👌👌
Good job. I’ve always heated my pipe first, even on regular copper fittings because that will prevent overheating of the fittings and actually makes the process quicker.
40 year retired Union Plumber/Welding Inspector. Great video and beautifully soldered joints.
I’ve also watched many soldering videos and yours are by far the best. Thorough, but not too much information. Just the right amount. There really is not substitute for experience, and since I only solder with occasional problems or new water heater installation, I have to review every time I have a new project. Someone with no experience should practice a few times on cheapest fittings they can find and be prepared to fail a time or two with valves before you get it right. Thanks for the excellent videos!
Thank you for this and all your videos! This hits the nail on the head of what my problem was with these valves. Run 80 ft of copper, stop counting at, 70 joints only leaks at these dumb valves. The irony is I put the valves in in case I got a leak in the other plumbing. Converting bedroom in 55 year old house into full master bath, 7 fixtures. Thanks again for your videos, you are the, Coppergod!
😇 thank you so much Chris!!!
Your videos are always straight to the point and concise. And the demonstrational cut of the fittings to show the solder coverage was extremely helpful. Thank you for going the extra mile!
just used this technique this weekend on a rerouting of hot and cold, put in the shut offs using your method and worked flawless. You saved me time and headache. Appreciate you passing on your knowledge. Best instruction on you tube for sure.
Glad it helped, thank you so much for letting me know :)
Your videos are simply the best out there. I am about to solder 3 ball valves for whole house filter. I am glad I found this as now I will buy the Sterling solder. I already switched to tinning solder a while back and love it. Interesting some of these ball valves have no packing nut anymore.
🙏🙏
I am replacing my traditional hot water heater with a tankless hot water heater. I have to replace some of the 3/4 inch copper pipes and adding two new valves. I have watched so many of your videos and they are the best on UA-cam. Thank you so much my friend and keep up the good work. I liked and subbed so I don't miss out on future videos.
Awesomeeee, good luck on the swap 🤜🤛
Excellent presentation. A plumbing pipe industry tutorial on soldering lead-free fittings suggested another best practice is following the solder around the joint with the torch flame to ensure better flow and coverage. Hard to do near a wall stud! I had six leaks on a half dozen soldered copper fittings installing new water supply pipes! Yes, I am a carpenter.
Always more difficult doing so in a wall, cheers!!!
@Leopold no experience with that type of piping, but pretty sure it's soldered/brazed the same way.
I am glad I searched your videos and found this. My house was built in 1962 and has the old shut offs with the handle the same as outdoor faucets and do not shut off properly plus some of them leak through the seal on the shaft when turned on or off. Thanks for another great video.
Awesomeeee!!!
Installing a water softener and just checking some vids to refresh me as I am a DIYer and I must say this presentation was concise and thorough with no filler! Great stuff. Subbed and liked!
I just replaced all of the galvanized plumbing in my house with copper last week. Thanks for all of your tips. I had a couple leaks (didn’t get full coverage in the joints) but I knew why and how to fix them thanks to your videos.
That is awesome!
Great video! Thanks for covering what to buy, and then showing the proper soldering technique, and what precautions to follow.
👌👌👌
we used to cut the joints on the bias to check capillary flow. A thin silver line around the entire cut confirms a good joint. great video!
💯
This was fantastic. Rather than take any risk with the two Gate Valves I was about to install, I ordered more tinning flux and low temp solder.
Agree with all the positive comments. I wish I’d had you as a teacher decades ago when I started soldering pipes! Keep it up.
Thanks 👍
Excellent instruction as always! I'm amazed that you soldered with the handle cover on - I fried one once years ago (first time, overheating like a greenhorn) and now I always remove them before sweating. Once bitten, twice shy! Thanks again!
You can put a copper pipe over the handle to protect it while soldering ;)
It looks easy but keep in mind guys that this take time to get good at, that dude KNOWS how to braze properly !
Thanks Etienne 😏
except he's not brazing. He's soldering
This is soft solder.
Yes this is not brazing, brazing is anything over 842°f.
THANK YOU!!! I had tried to solder the valve two times before finding your video. The big thing that helped was the low temp solder and flux with solder. Also the angle of your torch is a great tip. So far my join does not have a leak.
Excellent!!!
Not the first time I’ve said this but it’s worth repeating; THANK YOU!!!!
You are most welcome!!!!!!
Awesome video - I am just a DIY person & these valves were a challenge to solder. By accident I managed to use the steps you recommended except I did not think of using the low heat flux. I will make sure to get some for next time.
☝👌👌👌
I wish I saw this video before installing my water heater. I had a swing check valve that leaked. I couldn't figure out why is was so much more difficult to solder then the standard joints. I really appreciate your quick and to the point vids.
🤘🤘🤘
Great content! I have always felt that I didn't know how to solder. After watching this video I will have more faith in my work!. ❤ Thank you!
Good to see a video that’s not for complete amateurs
😉
From videos I’ve watched on this, yours is by far the best on every aspect. Excellent, my friend 👍🏼
🤘🤘🤘
Thank you so much for all these videos. Soldered some joints for the first time today. Took out a stubout, added a cap and a copper to PEX adapter. Pressurized to see exactly where it had a pinhole leak. Wanted to inspect and think there are several ares of horizontal sections that need or be repaired.
You videos have been great with plumbing DIYs!
Wow, thank you!
I certainly learned more than I thought I would. Great video for all home owner diy'ers. Products and techniques change in the wink of an eye. What was a common
procedure from 'your' last plumbing repair/install from as little as 6
months ago, can be outdated and even substandard today.
Awesomeeeee super happy to hear that!!!
Just super grateful for vast wealth of plumbing knowledge! Thank you brother.
So Julio, today I was in the shop and I came up with an experiment that has yielded quantitative data that might be of interest. I pretty much follow your technique in soldering ball valves to the letter, with good success so far. I was curious as to what temperature this technique was exposing the valve bodies to, based on our other conversation regarding valve seats. So today I grabbed a couple of Apollo lead-free cast bronze 3/4" valves (77-CLF-A) and some 3/4" type M copper hard tubing, and started soldering with my trusty propane pencil torch (using straight propane), some Sterling Premium LF solder and #95 tinning flux. These valves are marketed as made of "EZ-Solder Lead Free Bronze" (containing bismuth) which is supposed to solder nearly identically to traditional alloys containing lead.
After soldering each valve to my satisfaction using the preheat-pipe-first-then-heat-the-valve-cup method, I used a laboratory contact thermocouple and a Fluke digital temperature meter to measure the temperature of the valve body immediately after soldering. In each case, I did not use any cooling around the valve body (no wet rag, etc) and the valve body temperature did not exceed 350 degree Fahrenheit immediately after soldering. I'm very pleased to report, as per our previous thread exchange regarding the melting temperature of various valve seats. I try to stick with high quality ball valves from Apollo, Nibco, Milwaukee, etc and these typically have seats comprised of reinforced PTFE, whose melting temperature is around 620 degrees F. What this tells me is that for the 3/4" valves I tested, the method you recommend, when performed correctly with a conservative torch and fuel combination that does not produce excessive heat rapidly, appears to be well within the margin of safety for cast bronze LF valves (typically valve body temperatures not exceeding 500F), even without any valve body cooling applied (no wet rag).
Keep in mind that some lead-free forged brass valve manufacturers (i.e. Apollo) recommend that LF forged brass valve body temperature should not exceed 300F during soldering, thus some method of keeping these valves cool (like a wet rag) would likely be a good idea since in both case my results exceeded that. Also, results may be different with other valves, such as Nibco, which use LF alloys containing silicon and have different thermal conductivity than alloys containing bismuth such as the ones I tested.
Hope this information is useful.
Yes, this is why is SUPER important to read the manufacture directions on how to solder THEIR particular valves! Thanks again for all the great information Stiletto, it's fun to see you investigating this, love it!!!
Good tip. I especially like your suggestion on matching the length of solder to pipe diameter. I tend to be a heavy solderer.
💯🤟
Your videos are incredibly high quality. Thank you for your efforts!
You are most welcome!
This was a fantastic video and extremely informative. I really liked your 'exploded' cut-away sectionals of the pipe and valve portions showing coverage within the connection.
Thank you very much!!!
Thanks for the plumbing videos and illustrations. Lead free meaning no lead solder, pipe, and fittings are the only type to use on potable water lines!☺
😇
Nice solder coverage at the end.
Many times I have taken apart fittings that were done by someone else and upon looking at the solder I find that it was only connected in a thin small strip. Sometimes when I do my own I pre- tin as much as possible to insure it is thoroughly soldered.
I need to try some of the ways you use.
You got it down good.
Thanks 😇
I always learned new skills from you. Keep them coming.
Glad to hear it!
Always informative, clear and concise, thank you.
Most welcome!!
what a treat to see this pop up in the feed! always a ton of work you do on these and super informative. Toujours impressionnant et agréable.
Merci Thor, j'apprecie vraiment, passe une belle journee mon ami!!
Wow thanks for sharing dude! You're a good educator because you don't just say do it because i said so like some tradesmen. I appreciate your thoroughness.
🙏🙏🙏
Your discription are wonderful and detailed, I agree with the others here, you make an excellent tutor.
Thanks a million Simon, have a great day 🤗🤗🤗
Gotta say I always learn something from your videos. Thanks for posting.
🤗🤗🤗
Very good video. Animation is a kind of professional one. The explanation of kind of fluxes was very important
Glad you liked it!
Really love your clarity man.
Thank you so much Richard!
It looks easy till I have tried it. Your skill is on next level. Hats off sir.
Thanks a lot, you'll get it don't worry!
Thanks for the lesson. The guys in my company had trouble when the new ball valves came out.
Yeah we all did hehe, thanks Jim!
It’s a good point to share the flame away from the valve I learned something new today thanks 🤩
No problem 👍 please share if you can, thanks Eddy!!
You have the most well thought out and informative videos, thank you
Thank you so much Jed, really appreciate it!!!
I wish you had this video out last year. 🤣 It took me sooo long to get the joints to accept solder. Lots of reapplying flux and lots of gas wasted.(In reality it was only a few minutes. But when you're used to soldering copper only taking a few seconds, it seemed like hours!)
Sorry brother, hope it helps for the next one 😁😁😁
@@Got2Learn It will! I literally learned how to solder from you.
Awesome man, thank you so much for letting me know, I really appreciate it!!
Great, thanks, especially about your comments about the valve seal and the initial heating of the copper pipe & the positioning of the torch (and damp cloth wrap tip); thereafter, so as to not compromise the plastic seal.
😇👌
Thank you, don't forget to share, it really helps the channel!
Good to know about the lead free aspects. Ive always heated the pipe more, never wanting to cook the internals of the valve
Very interesting and thanks for sharing such a good video. Your video is so convincing that I never stop myself from saying something about it. You’re doing a great job. Keep it up.
Thank you so much Juliee 🤗
I wish I had found this video yesterday, I spend a full roll and I couldn't figure out why why was it so difficult😭? Thanks for the videos👍
This is a great video.I have had the misfortune of applying too much heat when soldering half inch ball valves and the result was that the ball valves blew out and I had to desolder the ball valve and start all over with a new half inch ball valve.Now to avoid blowing out half inch ball valves I use a torch with a pencil tube to ensure that I do not over heat the ball valves.Thank you for the video,God bless you and yours.
This video was well done, very informative, Thank you.
This is super helpful stuff for us DIY’ers!
🤟🤟🤟
Good Video with good explanation and tips. Keep up the good work.
Glad you liked it!
It's a good day. I learned something new. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!!
You always do a good Job with your videos I've learn alot but theres some stuff like soldering i wish i could actually do with someone teaching like you said it takes time.
You should do a video on soldering a ball valve in the open and closed position, then see what the difference is. Great video!
Great idea ;)
Exceptional instruction, great video production. Thank you!
😇😇😇👌👌👌
Thought of a question: That low-temp solder is quite expensive. For risk-averse beginning DIY solderers like myself, would it be just as well to get a ball valve with female threads on each end, then screw them into copper pipes which I previously terminated with male thread fittings? This would keep heat well away from the valve. Thx.
That'll work too!
Awesome video animations, very informative and great tips! Amazing work!
Thank you so much John 🤩🤩🤩
Always a very instructional and educational video bro. I do understand the reason for moving away from lead, but it sure was easier to use.
Yeah lead is SOOOO much easier to work with, it just comes at a price (our health) and it's a good thing that companies are starting to make a move, thank you so much Viper6, passe une belle journee!!!
Parenthesis noted. Maybe just elabourate how this job and you are babies.
Great video. It clarifies my question about soldering this kind of valve
😊👍
Excellent video as always. Oatey No.95 is my favorite flux as well. Especially for shutoff valves or extremely tights spaces.
i am not a plumber but somehow i enjoy watching you content and learning plumbing knowledge which i am sure i will never use because i live in india where all pipes are 100%pvc.
Thanks 👍
I wish I watch this 2 weeks ago. I just changed out one of these ball valves and ran into a week at after I got done with it. I still need to go back and deal with it but I got my hands full out there that is far from the biggest problem. That's actually the smallest problem
Will be changing my water shut off valve this week because I can't afford a plumber. I have some experience with plumbing so I hope it all goes smoothly 😃
Just make sure the valve is visible and accessible so that when the little O ring inside the SharkBite fitting that holds back the water eventually fails, you'll know about it before catastrophic flooding occurs in your home.
You are top notch! Great videos and thanks for all your time you put in.
Thank you soooo much!!!
Great video with proving the method worked!
Glad it helped, thanks Heath!
Your videos are always the best - You out do yourself. Thank you for the great presentations
So nice of you!!!
At 5:20 there wasn't any expanding of the copper pipe to close up the gap. Earlier in the video you were saying to heat up the pipe until it expands and takes up all of the gap. I don't like the idea of forcing the pipe to expand because once it cools it's going to want to shrink back down. What are your thoughts? Very helpful quality video by the way!
It only expands ever so slightly, nothing visible to the eye, just a thousandth of an inch, cheers ;)
Great teacher,...well done!
Wow, thank you!!!!
Very helpful information!!!.....I appreciate the great content. 👍 👍
Your videos are the best
🙏🙏🙏
The biggest problem I've had with soldering ball valves is overheating the valve and damaging the seal so that it won't shut off completely. On one job, after I ruined the second valve, I said the heck with it and went with the Shark Bite. It worked fine, opens and closes completely and no leaks. I worry about 10 or 20 years down the road, but it solved my immediate problem.
It'll still be there if it was properly installed, cheers!!!
I'm not confident in soldering ball valves, and I don't trust Sharkbites. My solution? Sweat a male adapter onto the copper pipe, and use a FPT ball valve.
@@cleansebob1 That sounds like a grand solution.
I might have learned something. A couple of years ago I replaced my shut off valve coming into the house. It is vertical. I made the top connection with no problem whatsoever but I never could get the bottom one to draw up into the valve. I gave up and used a shark bite to get the water back on.
If the shark bite fails I will try your tips.
Does it matter which way the ball valve is facing? It looks like the pressurized part of the water pipe was on the left, and the valve body has a section that unscrews on the right (in order to install the ball and two seals inside). The center of the valve body and the left side (in this video) were cast as one piece.
No, you can put it either way.
You want to oreintate the handle towards direction of flow in open position. I believe that's what your asking?
This is VERY useful information!! Thank you for posting.
My pleasure, please share if you don't mind it, cheers Lou!!
This is another great and comprehensive video mate.
Quick question. I have a 3/4" ball valve which has water on 1 side (live system), so the ball valve is in the closed position. I'm concerned about how solder on the dry side if the cold water on the wet side will not allow the dry side to get the correct temp.
Any advice or change of process to solder a new 3/4" line onto the dry side?
Just watch the heat, apart from that it's the same, cheers!!!
I have a valve I want to replace. It's in tight quarters. I can move one of the pipes away if I can get that end unsoldered. Do you recommend soldering the new valve to to the unsoldered pipe, or just cutting the old valve off and using a splice and new section of pipe?
I prefer cutting it out, but both methods work.
4:08 How the hell could you solder it in the open position if the handle is in the way? (Unless you took it off. But you shouldn't have to do that.)
Put a piece of copper pipe on the handle not to burn it ;)
Or you could us looselywrapped flats of steel from the steel cans used in vegetables, although not all cans are steel. Also time on point under the handle need not be long if you heat a little longer on each side of the handle due to conduction. Quod erat demonstrandum.
Congrats I like how you explain everything. Good video.
You are most welcome, please share if you can, it helps the channel tremendously ✌✌
Do you usually just call the manufacturer to find out their recommendations on whether or not the LF ball valve should be opened, half-opened or closed? And I did learn a number of things, thanks.
Most times it's written on the tag, but if it isn't, try checking their website or giving them a call 😉
can tinting flux and lower melting point solder use on both leaded and lead free component? once i soldered, none of the joints leak, only the silicon elbow from home depot had bleeding drips.
Sure.
great video !! Where was this in 2014 When i was learning !!! i blew out many seals improper heating or over heating the valves !! $$ AWESOME VIDEO 100% RECOMMEND!
Right on!!!
Excellent video, thanks for teaching us this.
Glad you enjoyed it!!!
Any tips for soldering above your head in a ceiling access panel?