How To Solder Copper Pipe Between 2 Studs With No Movement | GOT2LEARN
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- Опубліковано 7 чер 2024
- Here's how to solder a copper pipe that has no movement in it.
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Stuff I used in this video (Amazon affiliate links)
Tools:
Amazon affiliate links to all the products I used in this video:
AutoCut Pipe Cutter 1/2": amzn.to/2XlyqAn
AutoCut Pipe Cutter 3/4: amzn.to/3gPmhhz
Superior Tool 1/2" Cleaning Attachment: amzn.to/2kwBMBK
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Propane gas(Blue bottle): amzn.to/3tpWAOo
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Flux brushes: amzn.to/3S1xsrK
Lead-free solder (Sterling): amzn.to/3ZT6Jzn
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All-in-one deburring tool: amzn.to/3B9dLUv
PEX Cutters: amzn.to/2VposP5
TurboTorch STK-99: amzn.to/2YWNZA4
Slip coupling 1/2" (adjustable): amzn.to/3JNeDDD
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DISCLAIMER: Got2Learn is NOT responsible for any damage done to a property of which the plumbing wasn't done by a professional, I do not recommend doing your own plumbing if you are unsure about what you are doing, always hire a LICENSED contractor when doing any type of plumbing so you can be covered by insurances if something does happen, these videos are for entertainment purposes only!
This is awesome, he runs through so quickly, the different options, pros and cons, with no wasting time on unnecessary BS
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I agree, but that voice tho
@@torridice Yeah, we Canadians do talk weird
I am a carpenter, contractor and I have been a Home Inspector for over 30 years. This guys video's are very actuate, concise, easy to follow and educational.
Must be the accent.
Excellent job!
Wow, thanks, yeah it's probably the accent 😂😂😂!!!
@@Got2Learn It's not the accent!!
Helluva' job. Every time!
@@Got2Learnwait so how do those sharkbite slip ones work? Like one that long on one end? How that work if u only can push in so far?
@@Eastbaypisces ua-cam.com/users/clipUgkxg0joUKJMZ359t6r2Vz7pELJEIMPIN399
@@Got2Learn so do we have to slip in all the way or can we just go a lil bit then push back in?
Long time subscriber to this channel. I've yet to find a more helpful plumbing channel in UA-cam. Thanks and keep up the good work.
You made my day Gary, thank you so much!!!!
You don't need two slip coupling one is enough
And how are you gonna stay centered may I ask?
Thank you for providing great instructional videos! I was able to follow instructions as a novice and successfully installed a T in 3/4" line using two slip couplings first time with no leaks. The only challenge I had was getting slip couplings to slide over existing pipes. With a bit of emery cloth and elbow grease, I was able to enable slip couplings to move all the way onto on side of each pipe. Thanks again!
Glad it helped!!
My answer to them,, ' I can do what I want, it's my video '!!
Cheers fella,, you have helped me out alot.
Started with leaky wash basin tap,, ended up doing full bathroom refurb. Bath removed, fitted double shower cubicle .
Moral is,,,, Do not tell the Wife you can fix a leaky tap !!!
Thanks for the uploads 😀👍
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I am extremely impressed with your super-clear , detailed and simple information. You
certainly can teach an old dog new tricks. Thanks for your kind and helpful information - I cannot fault it.
Woww, thank you soo much Daniel, have a great day! 🤗
Just came here to watch the real plumbers have a mental breakdown over the sharkbite fittings!
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Yup I'm one of those plumbers having a mental breakdown about shark bites.
@wnc817 job insecurity.
@hyperliterider861 the problem with allowing sharkbites for temp fixes is you have to make them an approved fitting. Once you do that you can't say its approved but only as a temp fix. It becomes standard practice. Then every homeowner or idiot handyman installs them the wrong way. People tend to forget plumbers do what we do to protect the health and safety of the nation. So yes shark bites are an easy fix any one can do but you open the door to very unsafe practices
Sharkbite! Hoo Hahaa!!
I just learned something new today. NEver heard of a slip coupling but its about to get me out of a whole world of plumbing hurt! Thanks Man!
Awesome video, I love how you show alternate methods to solve the same problem of making a copper connection between studs.
Thanks for sharing!
I appreciate you covering everything including using 2 slip couplings for especially nonmoving pipes and if you wanted to you can always find a joint that is near on the same line to fix or just unsolder to get the slip joint in or Tee then fix the other. That about covers it. Nice job!
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you show all the ways and the plus and minus .... always great. Merci!
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This is a very timely video, as l need to add some drain valves to my tankless heater (bad installer did not install them). This is perfect. Thank you!!
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I liked sprayer in pipes with water. However, a quick blast of compressed air purges, canned keyboard cleaner works as well . A siphon works or a tube with thumb over it work fine too. Many hacks come from necessity...
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Thanks for the tips.
This will help me. I just started watching your channel and you've taught me a tone of stuff. Thanks for the knowledge. Keep up the good work
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Brother I hope you continue educating us all on this topic because your videos are very helpful
100%, many more videos on the way, no intentions on stopping ;)
Great videos man. Like others said, only one slip is necessary. I'd recommend that anyone soldering move their torch around more. If you hold your torch in the same spot you risk burning the flux out before the solder takes, as well as not having even penetration. The pipe shouldn't turn that dark color. At least thats how I was taught.
You must be careful moving torch, solder must be liquid around fitting at the same time. If solder melts opposite flame I know it’s right
yea thats why i started using tinning flux so it wouldn't burn as easy, but still had 2 leaks last time..grr...
I appreciate your respectful comment. This is why I love reading the comments. If I can verify, or even improve on a video’s content by seeing what other experienced guys say, it’s even better for me.
This was great. Glad I saw this to tackle this job tonight. Always look foward to learning new tricks. Thanks
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This is great stuff man! Very clear and well written. THANK YOU!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you....I learned something new today ...and I am 62 years old. Always amazing to understand just how little I know.
Thank you, don't forget to share, it really helps the channel!
In the case of cutting a piece of solid tubing to put a tee in you don't need to put in 2 couplings with the tee, you only need one slip coupling. Then you go from 6 spots you need to prep and solder to 4 spots you have to do, it also lessons the likelihood of having a leak. Also don't put shark bite fittings behind walls you are just asking for a problem, in a place you can easily get to if it doesn't hold go for it.
Good catch!
When it comes to materials and labor, less is better.
5 vs 7
I did my full house watching 3 videos, now watching only for pleasure. Very nice !
Awesome 👍👍👍
Dude. Same here.
Love it, cheers guys!!
They also make extra long slip couplings. They come in both press and solder.
Thanks for this. I’m about to do this exact job this weekend. Now I feel extremely confident I can do this myself and save $400 which is what the plumber said he would charge me.
Just what I need ..... just had a run with this very problem. Did not know about those slip joints. Thank you from Montreal !
Awesome, glad I could help, your are welcome from Montreal ;)
Great video 👍 I too make my own slip couplings, not always got a file to hand to de nib the centres, I keep a piece of 8mm zip rod for backup in the soldering kitty, works a treat. must agree it’s far easier to do 2 slip couplings than loaf around trying to get away With just one, especially if the T needs to exit at a certain point and your tight for space. Everyone has different methods, but the job gets done regardless 🤜🤛
Niceeee, cheers Ashley!! 💪
good points, but what is zip rod? Thanks!
@@andywason3414 it’s Threaded rod, Zip Rod is just another name some people use 👍
Thank you for the video, I am a do it yourself landlord and I like the plumbing tips
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I had no idea there was a slip coupling, and I'm embarrassed to say I never thought of doing that way. Thanks, good video!
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I imagine you hardly needed one, you probably cut the nearest 90 on either side to get movement. 🤔🤷
I love B the way you talk.
Great information as always, thanks for the video!
You bet, thanks Jonathan!
Great video. Short and to the point! I always hate the videos that say, in just a minute. Guaranteed to be 45 minutes long. Thanks again!
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One trick I use to clean older copper pipe in tight places is to use a short piece of pumice stone. Grinds a handy half round in the stone AND really helps to grind down prior Swage lock ripples on compression fittings when you can't get the brass ring off the pipe! I know, I'm OC and replace my caps and brass rings!! Great videos! I learned all kinds of tricks!!!
Great tip!!!
You make the BEST plumbing videos! ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
two repair couplings is too many couplings. one is more than enough and just use the tee instead of a secound coupling
I overlooked your logic one week ago without sleeping for two days. Thank you!
The situation as explained was that there was no movement in the pipes to allow a conventional fitting without the risk of bending. I’m not sure why all the experts are saying use one slide coupling. The price between the two fittings is maybe a few cents, and using two slide couplings is so much easier. Mark the pipe 5/8” on either side of the cut, slide the coupling on to the pipe, insert the new assembly, slide the coupling into place and solder. Some people have said use the tee to reduce a solder joint in the wall. If you know how to solder properly, obe joint or 20 joints doesn’t matter.
Pipes weren’t inline
@@dlwaterloo2221 Plumbing contractor here. On probably 95% of situations only 1 slip coupling is necessary so I can see why people are saying 2 is 2 many. First, slip couplings are not just a few cents more. Slip couplings are maybe only a few dollars more at smaller sizes but start moving up in pipe size and they become incredibly more expensive. Also, it's not only about price but fitting reduction, I will always try to use the least amount of fittings in my installation. Less fittings looks cleaner and is one less thing that can potentially leak in the future.
@@michaelbrewer3018 also a contractor here. Every situation is different. I faced a similar repair but had the pipe run through the studs drilled with less than 5/8” holes. Almost zero horizontal and vertical movement. I was faced with cutting back the pipe run to the next cavity and opening the hole to allow movement, creating another coupling, or using a second slip coupling instead of trying to push the tee on the pipe. The example, as explained, was for 1/2” copper. I agree using slip couplings on 1 1/4 and up presents challenges, but you also have a trade off if much less flexibility in pipe movement.
1:50 I agree with you on the filing. It's not like you're grinding the coupling to get to the other side of the copper. You're only taking off that little dimple in the center.
1:53 I don't see any problem with that grinding.
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If you have one, a Dremel with a round stone makes short clean work of the blocking nibs without taking too much copper out of the coupling.
100%, but be careful not to remove too much!
Piece of 3/8" threaded rod works every time, if you lose your file all the time
I would think that with a dremel you would shave too much off vs a file plus a file is in every plumbers tool bag and it’s not that tough to file off either
@@alexmejia8296 No file in my toolbag :(
Some great tips there, thank you.
Love to learn friend, thanks from Asheville, NC!
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Lost count of the times I've struggled with tight joints like that and I didn't know slip joints existed!!
Been doing this 15 years and have never seen one of those adjustable slip couplings. Kinda neat but i personally like to just use 1 slip coupling and 1 tee. You 99 out of 100 times can at least get one end made in and then make up the slip coupling. You do nice, clean, and correct work though I have to say. I’ve seen many of your videos.
Thank you so much...yes 1 coupling here would have been fine, I was just tired I guess...🤷♂️
great tutorial as usual!
Thank you! Cheers!
Sometimes I don’t have a slip on me and filing that stuff really made my job easier thx
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This was definitely a help,thank you!!
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Thank you for your video. It's very informative and educational. I love it.
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I agree, Im a licensed plumber and i rub the stops off 3/4 couplings all the time..been doing it for 10 yrs or more...never had an issue.
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I’m here in France. All even sizes of metric pipe are used and are available everywhere. For example, 10mm ID with 12mm OD, 12mm ID with 14mm OD, 14mm ID with 16mm OD and so on. You get the drift, I’m sure. Of course, using this system, with it’s great range of sizes, it is easy to make your own reducers and sleeves using the next size of pipe, since one slips perfectly inside the other. It is also great to be able to calculate pipe sizes really accurately for central heating systems. In the USA (and the UK), you are stuck with using a very limited, catch all range of pipe sizes which so often means overkill when installing. Either way, love your videos and one day you guys across the pond might arrive in the 21st century and start using metric..... but I won’t hold my breath!! 😀👍
Thank you so much!!
I've run into situations several times where the ideal repair solution would have been to use a piece of larger pipe, but of course they never fit because in America they're not designed that way. Good to know there are places in the world where they are sensible about this sort of thing, even if I'll never get to benefit from it :)
Totally unnecessary to have that many pipe sizes Just complicating the job Too much stock to carry around
@@JR1300r Right, because the half-dozen different pipe sizes common to American plumbing systems is the essence of simplicity.
Even in Canada where metric is the official measurement system, you can only find imperial supplies. I wish this old imperial system would to away. I have to carry twice the tools (imperial and metric socket and ratchet kit). So annoying.
Just subscribed! And.......SO glad you started pronouncing "Solder" correctly! :-) "Saw-der" for those who don't know.
Awesome! Thank you!
@@Got2Learn ... here in the northeastern section of the USA it sounds more like sah-der. If you hear a W sound they think you are from Bawstin.
Just please don't pronounce caulk that way 😉
@@rupe53 -- Yes! That's a better way to spell the pronunciation....using an "H"!! Lol! Up here in Eastern ND, we also say "Sah-der", don'cha know.....Uffda.
Thank you for the video!
Question: on the diy slip coupling, why not just off set the coupling slightly to one side and then the thin spot would be sleeved under by the pipe?
Thanks, this was very informative.🇬🇾🇬🇾🇬🇾🇬🇾
Most welcome, please share if you can, cheers!!
Thank you, all your videos have been super helpful so far! I'm in a program right now where we get deducted points if our solder puddles at the bottom, they are really pushing us to not use too much solder. I guess my question is, is it possible to tell if a joint will be watertight just from looking at it and picking it? We are being taught to pick it to make sure but so far in my experience, it seems easier to just do it right first rather than trying to redo the joint... I'm bending out the length of solder for the corresponding pipe size so there's no confusion. If everything was cleaned and fluxed correctly and 1/2" of solder went into the 1/2" pipe, can I pretty much assume that it will be watertight? thanks!
Outstanding job 👍
Now that's good advice!
I use a round file to remove the detente. Any copper removed from the inside wall is none to negligible. Besides, you’re not filing away the inside wall, just the little raised detente
You Da man!! Great explanation... Hello from Australia
Hey, thanks!
I fired up my torch , turned on my head lamp , and started drilling holes in the wall tweaking balls. This was on and inspiring in the background
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Another super great video 🙂!
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Some helpful techniques & a fitting that is new to me: a Sharkbite tee designed to slide extra to allow for inserting a tee fitting into a straight run. Thank you.
My pleasure Stuart, have a great evening and thank you ✌
Right to the point! Thanks.
You're welcome Todd!!!
In the beginning, and at the end he made 3 cuts in total, he cut both ends and used 2 slip couplings and a third cut for the "T" fitting in the middle, but you only need to make 1 cut for a clip coupling and leave the other pipe alone, then make the cut for the "T" fitting in place and then use the one slip coupling.
thats about what I wanna say
@johncopper2179 I'm not visualizing what you are saying. can you link a video that shows what you're talking about? (Super-newbie, here). Cheers,
Both cut ends had no play so while you can get the T on you won’t get the other end seated.
Thanks. I don't need to solder often but these are good tricks to know.
Glad to help!!
Thanks for the knowledge.
My pleasure ✌
Thanks for posting this. I loved the part where you taught us how file off the bump stop.
My pleasure :)
Another excellent video! Thanks.
You are most welcome :)
I'm quite sure that I could have figured that out when I'm at the store but seeing it done makes me know all those parts exist. Good Video, to the point.. like the old UA-cam :)
Thanks, don't forget to share if you can!!
Your video's are excellent!!
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thank you very much for your helpful video
Especially 1/2 and 3/4 I usually just use the regular coupling as it is easy to overcome the dimple stop.
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Your videos are incredible! Thanks!
Thank you so much!!!!
@@Got2Learn Yup you're the go to before I do any plumbing.
@@cb-gz1vl wooohooooo 🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘
Great information again.
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thanks this was very helpful
Thank you for your time and video
You are most welcome!
why cut both pipes wouldnt cutting one be smarter less soldering less chance of leaks especially in a wall
Maybe the soldering had to be in that exact spot, what about a faucet or something is coming out of that wall on that spot, maybe. 😉👍🏼🍺
Pipes were crooked, no choice.
@@Got2Learn I mean you force half inch together by bending it so it's not very much different lol
Filed in the bumps once. Saved me a 30 mile trip!
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Thanks. This is genius!
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Awesome video bro. I’ve had to file that little bump in the coupling a few times. 👍
Thanks man, passe des "belles" fetes!!!
@@Got2Learn tois aussi mon ami
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I have a pipe cutter just like that, but it's 1/2". I have found through frustration that the cutting wheel inside must be slightly crooked so if I snap it on and keep turning in one direction, it creates fine screw threads on the pipe as it walks itself along but never cuts through. I had success by learning to go back and forth rather than around and around. The 3/4" one is probably more robust.
Hi sir you are so awesome in teaching and explaining i am so glad to find you on UA-cam.
CAN YOU PLEASE MAKE A VIDEO OF BEGINNERS PLUMBING KIT PLEASE 🙏
Another option is to elongate the hole in the stud with drill and /or oscillating tool. One hole elongate up and another to elongate down for max play. Just enough for the pipe to flex.
Or if you don't have either of those tools (or just don't want to risk damaging the pipes) a hammer and chisel works.
OR you could just use a multi-tool on the holes in the wood.... make the holes wider basically and you'll have enough flex to attach as normal... once done, just add a support/wedge to the hole on each side to fill it back out and level. Pipework is easier then.
One side only for the slip joint makes more sense: less fittings, less joints, less work, more strength. Certainly here you could have done just one side for this exact config.
great video as usual
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Top class as usual 👌👌👌👌
Thank you so much, please share Mark!!! 🤘🤘🤘
Excellent video!
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Useful fix, have a couple of freeze burst pipes out in the barn that I couldn’t think of a good/simple way to repair. Sharkbites? No thanks.
Great video is very informative 😊🙏🏼👍🏼👍🏼
AWESOME 👏🏻 😎
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Got my journeyman ticket in 76. This is how I would do it. Some say one too many coupling. Thats ok. This is easy.
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thank you for this video.
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Thank you very much!
You are most welcome, please share if you can, it helps the channel tremendously ✌✌
You left one other option propress lol quick and easy, thanks for all your videos really enjoy watching.
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I love using propress 👍
@@plum-bum2541 ProPress is the shizz
Good lesson.
Can you please do one on the same issue with 4" pvc waste line? I can't find a slip coupling and don't want to use a rubber coupling. Also what to do around waste lines that get roots inside. After replacing the pipe is there anything to do to keep roots away? Thanks
Yes, there are companies specialized in running pipe liners, google it 🤘🤘🤘
Excellent animation! What software do you use?
excellent video
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other methods to removing a normal coupling detent is a reamer or dermal sander. if there’s a way to punch the detent back out you’d have no material lose.
I just happen to come across this video because of the algorithm and at some point this summer I do have to fix a pipe and do this and I was kind of wondering how I was going to do it and now I know
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Great video
Glad you enjoyed it!!
good video, thanks
My pleasure!
I just added a zone to my Hot Water System and had to tap into lines adding both a Control Valve and a "T" --in two locations. One T leaked on one side and is tough to reach. The mistake, I think, was forcing the pipe into the T fitting but it did not fit smoothly and was slightly cocked. This is old work I was soldering into. Added a slip coupling and redid the joint, so all's well now. Lesson: If the plumbing does not fit together smoothly, it likely will not solder leak free. In my case, I was mad it took another chunk of my time to redo this joint not to mention buying another propane tank--right now, the pricing is crazy. NUTS----$42 for a 10 foot length of 3/4" L Copper pipe. I should have did this job 20 years ago when the thought first occurred. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for sharing
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Awesome man. I learned how to solder some time ago from your vid. Ive made many soldered joints since then. Thanks friend.
Awesomeeeee 🤟🤟🤟
The m12 tubing cutter will also fit in small spaces I love that tool
I am a prefab guy before in the field multi family and what I can tell you is service new construction and prefab I've done more than 5000 Sweat joints and no leaks so not a noob so what I'm saying is if tining flux prevent leaks why do you not use it every time just like Teflon then dope if it will make sure no leaks use it