I am a carpenter, contractor and I have been a Home Inspector for over 30 years. This guys video's are very actuate, concise, easy to follow and educational. Must be the accent. Excellent job!
My answer to them,, ' I can do what I want, it's my video '!! Cheers fella,, you have helped me out alot. Started with leaky wash basin tap,, ended up doing full bathroom refurb. Bath removed, fitted double shower cubicle . Moral is,,,, Do not tell the Wife you can fix a leaky tap !!! Thanks for the uploads 😀👍
Thank you for providing great instructional videos! I was able to follow instructions as a novice and successfully installed a T in 3/4" line using two slip couplings first time with no leaks. The only challenge I had was getting slip couplings to slide over existing pipes. With a bit of emery cloth and elbow grease, I was able to enable slip couplings to move all the way onto on side of each pipe. Thanks again!
I’m here in France. All even sizes of metric pipe are used and are available everywhere. For example, 10mm ID with 12mm OD, 12mm ID with 14mm OD, 14mm ID with 16mm OD and so on. You get the drift, I’m sure. Of course, using this system, with it’s great range of sizes, it is easy to make your own reducers and sleeves using the next size of pipe, since one slips perfectly inside the other. It is also great to be able to calculate pipe sizes really accurately for central heating systems. In the USA (and the UK), you are stuck with using a very limited, catch all range of pipe sizes which so often means overkill when installing. Either way, love your videos and one day you guys across the pond might arrive in the 21st century and start using metric..... but I won’t hold my breath!! 😀👍
I've run into situations several times where the ideal repair solution would have been to use a piece of larger pipe, but of course they never fit because in America they're not designed that way. Good to know there are places in the world where they are sensible about this sort of thing, even if I'll never get to benefit from it :)
Even in Canada where metric is the official measurement system, you can only find imperial supplies. I wish this old imperial system would to away. I have to carry twice the tools (imperial and metric socket and ratchet kit). So annoying.
Great videos man. Like others said, only one slip is necessary. I'd recommend that anyone soldering move their torch around more. If you hold your torch in the same spot you risk burning the flux out before the solder takes, as well as not having even penetration. The pipe shouldn't turn that dark color. At least thats how I was taught.
I appreciate your respectful comment. This is why I love reading the comments. If I can verify, or even improve on a video’s content by seeing what other experienced guys say, it’s even better for me.
One trick I use to clean older copper pipe in tight places is to use a short piece of pumice stone. Grinds a handy half round in the stone AND really helps to grind down prior Swage lock ripples on compression fittings when you can't get the brass ring off the pipe! I know, I'm OC and replace my caps and brass rings!! Great videos! I learned all kinds of tricks!!!
I liked sprayer in pipes with water. However, a quick blast of compressed air purges, canned keyboard cleaner works as well . A siphon works or a tube with thumb over it work fine too. Many hacks come from necessity...
I appreciate you covering everything including using 2 slip couplings for especially nonmoving pipes and if you wanted to you can always find a joint that is near on the same line to fix or just unsolder to get the slip joint in or Tee then fix the other. That about covers it. Nice job!
The situation as explained was that there was no movement in the pipes to allow a conventional fitting without the risk of bending. I’m not sure why all the experts are saying use one slide coupling. The price between the two fittings is maybe a few cents, and using two slide couplings is so much easier. Mark the pipe 5/8” on either side of the cut, slide the coupling on to the pipe, insert the new assembly, slide the coupling into place and solder. Some people have said use the tee to reduce a solder joint in the wall. If you know how to solder properly, obe joint or 20 joints doesn’t matter.
@@dlwaterloo2221 Plumbing contractor here. On probably 95% of situations only 1 slip coupling is necessary so I can see why people are saying 2 is 2 many. First, slip couplings are not just a few cents more. Slip couplings are maybe only a few dollars more at smaller sizes but start moving up in pipe size and they become incredibly more expensive. Also, it's not only about price but fitting reduction, I will always try to use the least amount of fittings in my installation. Less fittings looks cleaner and is one less thing that can potentially leak in the future.
@@michaelbrewer3018 also a contractor here. Every situation is different. I faced a similar repair but had the pipe run through the studs drilled with less than 5/8” holes. Almost zero horizontal and vertical movement. I was faced with cutting back the pipe run to the next cavity and opening the hole to allow movement, creating another coupling, or using a second slip coupling instead of trying to push the tee on the pipe. The example, as explained, was for 1/2” copper. I agree using slip couplings on 1 1/4 and up presents challenges, but you also have a trade off if much less flexibility in pipe movement.
In the case of cutting a piece of solid tubing to put a tee in you don't need to put in 2 couplings with the tee, you only need one slip coupling. Then you go from 6 spots you need to prep and solder to 4 spots you have to do, it also lessons the likelihood of having a leak. Also don't put shark bite fittings behind walls you are just asking for a problem, in a place you can easily get to if it doesn't hold go for it.
I am extremely impressed with your super-clear , detailed and simple information. You certainly can teach an old dog new tricks. Thanks for your kind and helpful information - I cannot fault it.
1:50 I agree with you on the filing. It's not like you're grinding the coupling to get to the other side of the copper. You're only taking off that little dimple in the center. 1:53 I don't see any problem with that grinding.
I would think that with a dremel you would shave too much off vs a file plus a file is in every plumbers tool bag and it’s not that tough to file off either
Been doing this 15 years and have never seen one of those adjustable slip couplings. Kinda neat but i personally like to just use 1 slip coupling and 1 tee. You 99 out of 100 times can at least get one end made in and then make up the slip coupling. You do nice, clean, and correct work though I have to say. I’ve seen many of your videos.
Great video 👍 I too make my own slip couplings, not always got a file to hand to de nib the centres, I keep a piece of 8mm zip rod for backup in the soldering kitty, works a treat. must agree it’s far easier to do 2 slip couplings than loaf around trying to get away With just one, especially if the T needs to exit at a certain point and your tight for space. Everyone has different methods, but the job gets done regardless 🤜🤛
I use a round file to remove the detente. Any copper removed from the inside wall is none to negligible. Besides, you’re not filing away the inside wall, just the little raised detente
Thanks for this. I’m about to do this exact job this weekend. Now I feel extremely confident I can do this myself and save $400 which is what the plumber said he would charge me.
Thank you, all your videos have been super helpful so far! I'm in a program right now where we get deducted points if our solder puddles at the bottom, they are really pushing us to not use too much solder. I guess my question is, is it possible to tell if a joint will be watertight just from looking at it and picking it? We are being taught to pick it to make sure but so far in my experience, it seems easier to just do it right first rather than trying to redo the joint... I'm bending out the length of solder for the corresponding pipe size so there's no confusion. If everything was cleaned and fluxed correctly and 1/2" of solder went into the 1/2" pipe, can I pretty much assume that it will be watertight? thanks!
Another option is to elongate the hole in the stud with drill and /or oscillating tool. One hole elongate up and another to elongate down for max play. Just enough for the pipe to flex.
Thanks for the tips. This will help me. I just started watching your channel and you've taught me a tone of stuff. Thanks for the knowledge. Keep up the good work
@hyperliterider861 the problem with allowing sharkbites for temp fixes is you have to make them an approved fitting. Once you do that you can't say its approved but only as a temp fix. It becomes standard practice. Then every homeowner or idiot handyman installs them the wrong way. People tend to forget plumbers do what we do to protect the health and safety of the nation. So yes shark bites are an easy fix any one can do but you open the door to very unsafe practices
0:59 “cut the pipe a few inches down on each side” I only have 5 1/4” from the center of the tee to the floor joist. There is room for the slip coupling but all the joints will be close together. Is this too close because the heat will transfer to the tee when soldering the coupling? Is wrapping with the wet cloth the completed joints the way to go or what would you suggest?
Some helpful techniques & a fitting that is new to me: a Sharkbite tee designed to slide extra to allow for inserting a tee fitting into a straight run. Thank you.
Where else can you buy the adjustable (street) slip coupling? Your link doesn't work. I have tried HD, Lowes, Amazon, ACE... Help! The street (adjustable) version may be very helpful!
In the beginning, and at the end he made 3 cuts in total, he cut both ends and used 2 slip couplings and a third cut for the "T" fitting in the middle, but you only need to make 1 cut for a clip coupling and leave the other pipe alone, then make the cut for the "T" fitting in place and then use the one slip coupling.
I have a pipe cutter just like that, but it's 1/2". I have found through frustration that the cutting wheel inside must be slightly crooked so if I snap it on and keep turning in one direction, it creates fine screw threads on the pipe as it walks itself along but never cuts through. I had success by learning to go back and forth rather than around and around. The 3/4" one is probably more robust.
I just added a zone to my Hot Water System and had to tap into lines adding both a Control Valve and a "T" --in two locations. One T leaked on one side and is tough to reach. The mistake, I think, was forcing the pipe into the T fitting but it did not fit smoothly and was slightly cocked. This is old work I was soldering into. Added a slip coupling and redid the joint, so all's well now. Lesson: If the plumbing does not fit together smoothly, it likely will not solder leak free. In my case, I was mad it took another chunk of my time to redo this joint not to mention buying another propane tank--right now, the pricing is crazy. NUTS----$42 for a 10 foot length of 3/4" L Copper pipe. I should have did this job 20 years ago when the thought first occurred. Thanks for the video.
I'm not a Plumber but was wondering if one could make one cut where you would normally to center the "T" then move over enough to solder in the "T" and the slip coupling to make a second cut? Trim the cutout to fit. This would allow you to cut out one part and 1/3 of the solder connections.
@@rupe53 -- Yes! That's a better way to spell the pronunciation....using an "H"!! Lol! Up here in Eastern ND, we also say "Sah-der", don'cha know.....Uffda.
This is a very timely video, as l need to add some drain valves to my tankless heater (bad installer did not install them). This is perfect. Thank you!!
I'm quite sure that I could have figured that out when I'm at the store but seeing it done makes me know all those parts exist. Good Video, to the point.. like the old UA-cam :)
OR you could just use a multi-tool on the holes in the wood.... make the holes wider basically and you'll have enough flex to attach as normal... once done, just add a support/wedge to the hole on each side to fill it back out and level. Pipework is easier then.
Very timely video for me. 1/2" copper pipe sprung a pin hole leak ( ? ( pipe in place 40 yrs ) between floor joists in basement. I was told to use a Shark Bite coupling, ah no not goona do it. Slip coupling, yes, if I can source one, but it never occurred to me to file down that little nub in a regular coupling which every hardware store etc will stock. So simple, Hey why didn't I think of that!?
One side only for the slip joint makes more sense: less fittings, less joints, less work, more strength. Certainly here you could have done just one side for this exact config.
Thank you for the video! Question: on the diy slip coupling, why not just off set the coupling slightly to one side and then the thin spot would be sleeved under by the pipe?
Good lesson. Can you please do one on the same issue with 4" pvc waste line? I can't find a slip coupling and don't want to use a rubber coupling. Also what to do around waste lines that get roots inside. After replacing the pipe is there anything to do to keep roots away? Thanks
I got a suggestion for a video. Can you go over the names of abs pipe fittings and when to use them. When I go to home depot there are literally dozens and dozens of fitting and all i got are pictures and trying to match them. It could be a series for abs pipe, galvanized, copper, pex, black pipe and so on. Just my .02. I love your channel. I've done a lot of projects based on your videos.
Before a plumbing project, I make a list of what I expect I will need before heading to the store. Then when I get there I double it and add a few handfuls of fittings I didn’t have on my list. I’d much rather spend a few minutes at the returns counter after job completion that run back and forth with the water or drains on the project out of service.
Is there an easy way to repair a newly soldered ball valve that has a small drip from one of the joints? Does it have to be taken back apart and start from the beginning and will the valve survive another heating?
I’ve noticed you add solder to the pipe on one side only. I know it travels around the pipe, but I was taught by an old timer to add solder all around the pipe. Any difference?
Not really, there's more than one way to solder, the reason I like using this method is for the simple fact that when my solder melts on the "unheated" side, I know at 100% that the entire joint is hot enough. This only works for 1/2" and 3/4", anything above that should be heated all around, hope this helps!
Seen most of your vids, can the lessons and techniques be applied to natural gas piping? Im from Portugal and here we only use copper pipes for natural gas. Thanks a lot really!
Hi sir you are so awesome in teaching and explaining i am so glad to find you on UA-cam. CAN YOU PLEASE MAKE A VIDEO OF BEGINNERS PLUMBING KIT PLEASE 🙏
Quick question for putting flux on the joints with the slip couplings: is it better to flux both the pipes and inside of the coupling, or just the ends of the pipes?
How about getting flux on the slip connectors. Do you just flux the joint and then slip the coupler on? Usually I find that just pushes all the flux out of the way
I always coat the pipe and the inside of the fitting with flux. Then I put another dab of flux around the end of the fitting I’m soldering. I find that when I heat the opposite end prior to soldering, the flux at the far end gets pulled towards the heat, just like the solder. I always use an OD and ID pipe and fitting cleaning tool.
Wait a minute! This video is lacking some critical elements: 1) no loud obnoxious background music. 2) no rambling introduction. 3) no annoying digressions. 4) no out of focus camera or bad camera angles. Wow, I think I’ll subscribe. 👍🏻
I know sharkbites are not popular here but in this application I have one observation. When using them on copper pipe, you need to remove the inner plastic sleeve/insert. Those are meant to be used only with plastic pipe. With copper pipe they flop around and get in the way and prevent full insertion. As you can see in video, he had to rock it around to get it to seat. Additionally, can restrict flow, cause turbulence and catch loose chips of scale in hot water lines and cause a blockage. So, again remove the insert when using on copper.
This is not written anyplace on any of the technical sheets for sharkbite. I have done about a dozen connections exactly as the SB comes, on copper pipe.
I am a prefab guy before in the field multi family and what I can tell you is service new construction and prefab I've done more than 5000 Sweat joints and no leaks so not a noob so what I'm saying is if tining flux prevent leaks why do you not use it every time just like Teflon then dope if it will make sure no leaks use it
At 1:18 you are adding an extra joint for no reason. You cut the pipe ONE extra time and then put your tee in place. Then slip your slip coupling into place and you can pull the pipes apart enough to get the last section into the tee. Slide up your slip coupling and then solder them all.
Once again, Got2Learn, you are awesome!! Anyone know where you can get an adjustable slip coupling (3/4") in the U.S? I have an immediate project for it, and it would be great to cut a 6 joint project (integrating a shutoff valve using two slip couplings) to 3 joints, as the tight location will be difficult to work in. I've searched online but can't seem to find it.
@@Got2Learn I was referring to the adjustable slip coupling, not the standard slip couplings. In regards to the adjustable slip couplings, do they fit both L & K type copper?, or only one of them?
@@alchoy62 All Types of copper pipe have the same outside dimensions so they can use the same fittings, the only difference is in the wall thickness (with K being thickest and M being thinnest.)
as usual - NEVER disappointed - and... I am anxiously waiting for your video on a complete Uponor distribution home run system. where each and every end is its own run. .. Your copper , brass, and solder is 100% awesome.. lets see some more Uponor PEX expansion ! P.S awesome video and many many thanx for the education ! .. I would love to see you go one on one with those guys from Mike Holmes !!!! you would send them to schoooooool !
@@zackzander425 I can't tell you how many I have dug up on water leak calls. Got to love the genius that puts them in the ground before a PRV. Some super genius I recently went behind put one inside the foundation wall. I'm assuming it was a repair from a leaking stub out, but ffs man. Shark bites are garbage.
I just happen to come across this video because of the algorithm and at some point this summer I do have to fix a pipe and do this and I was kind of wondering how I was going to do it and now I know
other methods to removing a normal coupling detent is a reamer or dermal sander. if there’s a way to punch the detent back out you’d have no material lose.
Great little video...but, I have to add a tee between an elbow and a ball valve with just enough room for the tee...looks like I need to cut out the ball valve too :((...The video was good in the fact that I realized I had to cut the ball valve..thkx!
Idea for you.. why did I buy 1/2" od copper tubing. Type m and bought 1/2" I'd couplings and had a massive gap.. like way too much to even attempt to sweat
I am a carpenter, contractor and I have been a Home Inspector for over 30 years. This guys video's are very actuate, concise, easy to follow and educational.
Must be the accent.
Excellent job!
Wow, thanks, yeah it's probably the accent 😂😂😂!!!
@@Got2Learn It's not the accent!!
Helluva' job. Every time!
@@Got2Learnwait so how do those sharkbite slip ones work? Like one that long on one end? How that work if u only can push in so far?
@@Eastbaypisces ua-cam.com/users/clipUgkxg0joUKJMZ359t6r2Vz7pELJEIMPIN399
@@Got2Learn so do we have to slip in all the way or can we just go a lil bit then push back in?
This is awesome, he runs through so quickly, the different options, pros and cons, with no wasting time on unnecessary BS
👍👍👍
I agree, but that voice tho
@@torridice Yeah, we Canadians do talk weird
My answer to them,, ' I can do what I want, it's my video '!!
Cheers fella,, you have helped me out alot.
Started with leaky wash basin tap,, ended up doing full bathroom refurb. Bath removed, fitted double shower cubicle .
Moral is,,,, Do not tell the Wife you can fix a leaky tap !!!
Thanks for the uploads 😀👍
🙏🙏🙏
Thank you for providing great instructional videos! I was able to follow instructions as a novice and successfully installed a T in 3/4" line using two slip couplings first time with no leaks. The only challenge I had was getting slip couplings to slide over existing pipes. With a bit of emery cloth and elbow grease, I was able to enable slip couplings to move all the way onto on side of each pipe. Thanks again!
Glad it helped!!
Long time subscriber to this channel. I've yet to find a more helpful plumbing channel in UA-cam. Thanks and keep up the good work.
You made my day Gary, thank you so much!!!!
You don't need two slip coupling one is enough
And how are you gonna stay centered may I ask?
I’m here in France. All even sizes of metric pipe are used and are available everywhere. For example, 10mm ID with 12mm OD, 12mm ID with 14mm OD, 14mm ID with 16mm OD and so on. You get the drift, I’m sure. Of course, using this system, with it’s great range of sizes, it is easy to make your own reducers and sleeves using the next size of pipe, since one slips perfectly inside the other. It is also great to be able to calculate pipe sizes really accurately for central heating systems. In the USA (and the UK), you are stuck with using a very limited, catch all range of pipe sizes which so often means overkill when installing. Either way, love your videos and one day you guys across the pond might arrive in the 21st century and start using metric..... but I won’t hold my breath!! 😀👍
Thank you so much!!
I've run into situations several times where the ideal repair solution would have been to use a piece of larger pipe, but of course they never fit because in America they're not designed that way. Good to know there are places in the world where they are sensible about this sort of thing, even if I'll never get to benefit from it :)
Totally unnecessary to have that many pipe sizes Just complicating the job Too much stock to carry around
@@JR1300r Right, because the half-dozen different pipe sizes common to American plumbing systems is the essence of simplicity.
Even in Canada where metric is the official measurement system, you can only find imperial supplies. I wish this old imperial system would to away. I have to carry twice the tools (imperial and metric socket and ratchet kit). So annoying.
Great videos man. Like others said, only one slip is necessary. I'd recommend that anyone soldering move their torch around more. If you hold your torch in the same spot you risk burning the flux out before the solder takes, as well as not having even penetration. The pipe shouldn't turn that dark color. At least thats how I was taught.
You must be careful moving torch, solder must be liquid around fitting at the same time. If solder melts opposite flame I know it’s right
yea thats why i started using tinning flux so it wouldn't burn as easy, but still had 2 leaks last time..grr...
I appreciate your respectful comment. This is why I love reading the comments. If I can verify, or even improve on a video’s content by seeing what other experienced guys say, it’s even better for me.
This is awesome, he runs through so quickly, the different options, pros and cons, with no wasting time on unnecessary BS
I just learned something new today. NEver heard of a slip coupling but its about to get me out of a whole world of plumbing hurt! Thanks Man!
One trick I use to clean older copper pipe in tight places is to use a short piece of pumice stone. Grinds a handy half round in the stone AND really helps to grind down prior Swage lock ripples on compression fittings when you can't get the brass ring off the pipe! I know, I'm OC and replace my caps and brass rings!! Great videos! I learned all kinds of tricks!!!
Great tip!!!
I liked sprayer in pipes with water. However, a quick blast of compressed air purges, canned keyboard cleaner works as well . A siphon works or a tube with thumb over it work fine too. Many hacks come from necessity...
👌👌👌
I appreciate you covering everything including using 2 slip couplings for especially nonmoving pipes and if you wanted to you can always find a joint that is near on the same line to fix or just unsolder to get the slip joint in or Tee then fix the other. That about covers it. Nice job!
🤘🤘🤘
Thank you....I learned something new today ...and I am 62 years old. Always amazing to understand just how little I know.
Thank you, don't forget to share, it really helps the channel!
two repair couplings is too many couplings. one is more than enough and just use the tee instead of a secound coupling
I overlooked your logic one week ago without sleeping for two days. Thank you!
The situation as explained was that there was no movement in the pipes to allow a conventional fitting without the risk of bending. I’m not sure why all the experts are saying use one slide coupling. The price between the two fittings is maybe a few cents, and using two slide couplings is so much easier. Mark the pipe 5/8” on either side of the cut, slide the coupling on to the pipe, insert the new assembly, slide the coupling into place and solder. Some people have said use the tee to reduce a solder joint in the wall. If you know how to solder properly, obe joint or 20 joints doesn’t matter.
Pipes weren’t inline
@@dlwaterloo2221 Plumbing contractor here. On probably 95% of situations only 1 slip coupling is necessary so I can see why people are saying 2 is 2 many. First, slip couplings are not just a few cents more. Slip couplings are maybe only a few dollars more at smaller sizes but start moving up in pipe size and they become incredibly more expensive. Also, it's not only about price but fitting reduction, I will always try to use the least amount of fittings in my installation. Less fittings looks cleaner and is one less thing that can potentially leak in the future.
@@michaelbrewer3018 also a contractor here. Every situation is different. I faced a similar repair but had the pipe run through the studs drilled with less than 5/8” holes. Almost zero horizontal and vertical movement. I was faced with cutting back the pipe run to the next cavity and opening the hole to allow movement, creating another coupling, or using a second slip coupling instead of trying to push the tee on the pipe. The example, as explained, was for 1/2” copper. I agree using slip couplings on 1 1/4 and up presents challenges, but you also have a trade off if much less flexibility in pipe movement.
In the case of cutting a piece of solid tubing to put a tee in you don't need to put in 2 couplings with the tee, you only need one slip coupling. Then you go from 6 spots you need to prep and solder to 4 spots you have to do, it also lessons the likelihood of having a leak. Also don't put shark bite fittings behind walls you are just asking for a problem, in a place you can easily get to if it doesn't hold go for it.
Good catch!
When it comes to materials and labor, less is better.
5 vs 7
They also make extra long slip couplings. They come in both press and solder.
I am extremely impressed with your super-clear , detailed and simple information. You
certainly can teach an old dog new tricks. Thanks for your kind and helpful information - I cannot fault it.
Woww, thank you soo much Daniel, have a great day! 🤗
Awesome video, I love how you show alternate methods to solve the same problem of making a copper connection between studs.
Thanks for sharing!
1:50 I agree with you on the filing. It's not like you're grinding the coupling to get to the other side of the copper. You're only taking off that little dimple in the center.
1:53 I don't see any problem with that grinding.
👍👍👍
If you have one, a Dremel with a round stone makes short clean work of the blocking nibs without taking too much copper out of the coupling.
100%, but be careful not to remove too much!
Piece of 3/8" threaded rod works every time, if you lose your file all the time
I would think that with a dremel you would shave too much off vs a file plus a file is in every plumbers tool bag and it’s not that tough to file off either
@@alexmejia8296 No file in my toolbag :(
Been doing this 15 years and have never seen one of those adjustable slip couplings. Kinda neat but i personally like to just use 1 slip coupling and 1 tee. You 99 out of 100 times can at least get one end made in and then make up the slip coupling. You do nice, clean, and correct work though I have to say. I’ve seen many of your videos.
Thank you so much...yes 1 coupling here would have been fine, I was just tired I guess...🤷♂️
Great video. Short and to the point! I always hate the videos that say, in just a minute. Guaranteed to be 45 minutes long. Thanks again!
😇😇😇
I agree, Im a licensed plumber and i rub the stops off 3/4 couplings all the time..been doing it for 10 yrs or more...never had an issue.
🤘🤘🤘
Great video 👍 I too make my own slip couplings, not always got a file to hand to de nib the centres, I keep a piece of 8mm zip rod for backup in the soldering kitty, works a treat. must agree it’s far easier to do 2 slip couplings than loaf around trying to get away With just one, especially if the T needs to exit at a certain point and your tight for space. Everyone has different methods, but the job gets done regardless 🤜🤛
Niceeee, cheers Ashley!! 💪
good points, but what is zip rod? Thanks!
@@andywason3414 it’s Threaded rod, Zip Rod is just another name some people use 👍
why cut both pipes wouldnt cutting one be smarter less soldering less chance of leaks especially in a wall
Maybe the soldering had to be in that exact spot, what about a faucet or something is coming out of that wall on that spot, maybe. 😉👍🏼🍺
Pipes were crooked, no choice.
@@Got2Learn I mean you force half inch together by bending it so it's not very much different lol
I use a round file to remove the detente. Any copper removed from the inside wall is none to negligible. Besides, you’re not filing away the inside wall, just the little raised detente
Thanks for this. I’m about to do this exact job this weekend. Now I feel extremely confident I can do this myself and save $400 which is what the plumber said he would charge me.
Why did you use two slip couplings? Cut the left to the correct length to position the T where wanted and then use a coupling on the right?
Brother I hope you continue educating us all on this topic because your videos are very helpful
100%, many more videos on the way, no intentions on stopping ;)
Thank you, all your videos have been super helpful so far! I'm in a program right now where we get deducted points if our solder puddles at the bottom, they are really pushing us to not use too much solder. I guess my question is, is it possible to tell if a joint will be watertight just from looking at it and picking it? We are being taught to pick it to make sure but so far in my experience, it seems easier to just do it right first rather than trying to redo the joint... I'm bending out the length of solder for the corresponding pipe size so there's no confusion. If everything was cleaned and fluxed correctly and 1/2" of solder went into the 1/2" pipe, can I pretty much assume that it will be watertight? thanks!
I had no idea there was a slip coupling, and I'm embarrassed to say I never thought of doing that way. Thanks, good video!
👌👌👌
I imagine you hardly needed one, you probably cut the nearest 90 on either side to get movement. 🤔🤷
Another option is to elongate the hole in the stud with drill and /or oscillating tool. One hole elongate up and another to elongate down for max play. Just enough for the pipe to flex.
Or if you don't have either of those tools (or just don't want to risk damaging the pipes) a hammer and chisel works.
Thanks for the tips.
This will help me. I just started watching your channel and you've taught me a tone of stuff. Thanks for the knowledge. Keep up the good work
👍👍👍✌
Just came here to watch the real plumbers have a mental breakdown over the sharkbite fittings!
🤣🤣🤣
Yup I'm one of those plumbers having a mental breakdown about shark bites.
@wnc817 job insecurity.
@hyperliterider861 the problem with allowing sharkbites for temp fixes is you have to make them an approved fitting. Once you do that you can't say its approved but only as a temp fix. It becomes standard practice. Then every homeowner or idiot handyman installs them the wrong way. People tend to forget plumbers do what we do to protect the health and safety of the nation. So yes shark bites are an easy fix any one can do but you open the door to very unsafe practices
Sharkbite! Hoo Hahaa!!
0:59 “cut the pipe a few inches down on each side” I only have 5 1/4” from the center of the tee to the floor joist. There is room for the slip coupling but all the joints will be close together. Is this too close because the heat will transfer to the tee when soldering the coupling? Is wrapping with the wet cloth the completed joints the way to go or what would you suggest?
Just what I need ..... just had a run with this very problem. Did not know about those slip joints. Thank you from Montreal !
Awesome, glad I could help, your are welcome from Montreal ;)
Some helpful techniques & a fitting that is new to me: a Sharkbite tee designed to slide extra to allow for inserting a tee fitting into a straight run. Thank you.
My pleasure Stuart, have a great evening and thank you ✌
Where else can you buy the adjustable (street) slip coupling? Your link doesn't work. I have tried HD, Lowes, Amazon, ACE... Help! The street (adjustable) version may be very helpful!
I swapped out the broken link, check it now: amzn.to/3JNeDDD
In the beginning, and at the end he made 3 cuts in total, he cut both ends and used 2 slip couplings and a third cut for the "T" fitting in the middle, but you only need to make 1 cut for a clip coupling and leave the other pipe alone, then make the cut for the "T" fitting in place and then use the one slip coupling.
thats about what I wanna say
@johncopper2179 I'm not visualizing what you are saying. can you link a video that shows what you're talking about? (Super-newbie, here). Cheers,
Both cut ends had no play so while you can get the T on you won’t get the other end seated.
Lost count of the times I've struggled with tight joints like that and I didn't know slip joints existed!!
I have a pipe cutter just like that, but it's 1/2". I have found through frustration that the cutting wheel inside must be slightly crooked so if I snap it on and keep turning in one direction, it creates fine screw threads on the pipe as it walks itself along but never cuts through. I had success by learning to go back and forth rather than around and around. The 3/4" one is probably more robust.
I just added a zone to my Hot Water System and had to tap into lines adding both a Control Valve and a "T" --in two locations. One T leaked on one side and is tough to reach. The mistake, I think, was forcing the pipe into the T fitting but it did not fit smoothly and was slightly cocked. This is old work I was soldering into. Added a slip coupling and redid the joint, so all's well now. Lesson: If the plumbing does not fit together smoothly, it likely will not solder leak free. In my case, I was mad it took another chunk of my time to redo this joint not to mention buying another propane tank--right now, the pricing is crazy. NUTS----$42 for a 10 foot length of 3/4" L Copper pipe. I should have did this job 20 years ago when the thought first occurred. Thanks for the video.
I'm not a Plumber but was wondering if one could make one cut where you would normally to center the "T" then move over enough to solder in the "T" and the slip coupling to make a second cut? Trim the cutout to fit. This would allow you to cut out one part and 1/3 of the solder connections.
Yes 💯
Just subscribed! And.......SO glad you started pronouncing "Solder" correctly! :-) "Saw-der" for those who don't know.
Awesome! Thank you!
@@Got2Learn ... here in the northeastern section of the USA it sounds more like sah-der. If you hear a W sound they think you are from Bawstin.
Just please don't pronounce caulk that way 😉
@@rupe53 -- Yes! That's a better way to spell the pronunciation....using an "H"!! Lol! Up here in Eastern ND, we also say "Sah-der", don'cha know.....Uffda.
you show all the ways and the plus and minus .... always great. Merci!
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This is a very timely video, as l need to add some drain valves to my tankless heater (bad installer did not install them). This is perfect. Thank you!!
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Useful fix, have a couple of freeze burst pipes out in the barn that I couldn’t think of a good/simple way to repair. Sharkbites? No thanks.
I'm quite sure that I could have figured that out when I'm at the store but seeing it done makes me know all those parts exist. Good Video, to the point.. like the old UA-cam :)
Thanks, don't forget to share if you can!!
OR you could just use a multi-tool on the holes in the wood.... make the holes wider basically and you'll have enough flex to attach as normal... once done, just add a support/wedge to the hole on each side to fill it back out and level. Pipework is easier then.
Very timely video for me. 1/2" copper pipe sprung a pin hole leak ( ? ( pipe in place 40 yrs ) between floor joists in basement. I was told to use a Shark Bite coupling, ah no not goona do it. Slip coupling, yes, if I can source one, but it never occurred to me to file down that little nub in a regular coupling which every hardware store etc will stock. So simple, Hey why didn't I think of that!?
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Thank you, don't forget to share, it really helps the channel!
One side only for the slip joint makes more sense: less fittings, less joints, less work, more strength. Certainly here you could have done just one side for this exact config.
Thank you for the video!
Question: on the diy slip coupling, why not just off set the coupling slightly to one side and then the thin spot would be sleeved under by the pipe?
Especially 1/2 and 3/4 I usually just use the regular coupling as it is easy to overcome the dimple stop.
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Excellent videos. Why doesn't the flux inside the joints cause corrosion?
Thank you so much!
When a system is done, the water that passes in it flushes out all the flux since it's water soluble ;)
@@Got2Learn Thank you. Thanks to you I made my own "jet swet" from bits I had in my basement and saved $45.
Awesomeeee!!!
You only need 1 slip coupling for that tee. Me personally as a plumber for 40yrs i would never bury a shark pipe fitting in a wall..
Yeah my setup required 2 couplings because the pipes were really crooked.
Yep, skilled and experienced plumbers wouldn't either, but this guy did - says a lot !
@@Got2Learn - we could see the pipes came through much larger holes?
Why are you saying they were not aligned?
Amateurs!!!!! As a pro master plumber I use that accordion pipe that goes under the sink and 2 hose clamps. Pros knows
@@AverageReviewsYT hahaha yes! I am a supreme overlord master plumber and I solder my galvanized pipes to my pvc easily.
Thank you for the video, I am a do it yourself landlord and I like the plumbing tips
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Good lesson.
Can you please do one on the same issue with 4" pvc waste line? I can't find a slip coupling and don't want to use a rubber coupling. Also what to do around waste lines that get roots inside. After replacing the pipe is there anything to do to keep roots away? Thanks
Yes, there are companies specialized in running pipe liners, google it 🤘🤘🤘
I got a suggestion for a video. Can you go over the names of abs pipe fittings and when to use them. When I go to home depot there are literally dozens and dozens of fitting and all i got are pictures and trying to match them. It could be a series for abs pipe, galvanized, copper, pex, black pipe and so on. Just my .02. I love your channel. I've done a lot of projects based on your videos.
Awesome, taking notes! ✌
Before a plumbing project, I make a list of what I expect I will need before heading to the store. Then when I get there I double it and add a few handfuls of fittings I didn’t have on my list. I’d much rather spend a few minutes at the returns counter after job completion that run back and forth with the water or drains on the project out of service.
You don't need two slip couplings. Done it many times. The fewer fittings in the wall the better off you are.
I agree, one slip coupling was all he needed. Nobody wants to solder more joints then they have to. Especially inside a wall.
Thanks!
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Filed in the bumps once. Saved me a 30 mile trip!
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This was great. Glad I saw this to tackle this job tonight. Always look foward to learning new tricks. Thanks
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I would never suggest,recommend, or use a push connect/ shark bite fitting within an enclosed wall.
I did my full house watching 3 videos, now watching only for pleasure. Very nice !
Awesome 👍👍👍
Dude. Same here.
Love it, cheers guys!!
Is there an easy way to repair a newly soldered ball valve that has a small drip from one of the joints? Does it have to be taken back apart and start from the beginning and will the valve survive another heating?
Yes, you need to dismantle it and restart, I made a video on this, check it out: ua-cam.com/video/8IV7oG43DZ0/v-deo.html&ab_channel=Got2Learn
I’ve noticed you add solder to the pipe on one side only. I know it travels around the pipe, but I was taught by an old timer to add solder all around the pipe. Any difference?
Not really, there's more than one way to solder, the reason I like using this method is for the simple fact that when my solder melts on the "unheated" side, I know at 100% that the entire joint is hot enough. This only works for 1/2" and 3/4", anything above that should be heated all around, hope this helps!
@@Got2Learn I’ve done 3” copper pipes. It takes two guys to do it together. Thanks!
Heheee 3" is pretty big, soooo fun to work with though, cheers!!!
Capillary action will pull the solder around the pipe the same as it pulls the solder **up** on an upside down fitting.
Thanks for posting this. I loved the part where you taught us how file off the bump stop.
My pleasure :)
Great video!! I been doing these slip joints with PVC and have never had a problem. I still don't trust shark bite
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Seen most of your vids, can the lessons and techniques be applied to natural gas piping? Im from Portugal and here we only use copper pipes for natural gas.
Thanks a lot really!
Yes, but you are most likely brazing, right?
Got my journeyman ticket in 76. This is how I would do it. Some say one too many coupling. Thats ok. This is easy.
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Hi sir you are so awesome in teaching and explaining i am so glad to find you on UA-cam.
CAN YOU PLEASE MAKE A VIDEO OF BEGINNERS PLUMBING KIT PLEASE 🙏
Quick question for putting flux on the joints with the slip couplings: is it better to flux both the pipes and inside of the coupling, or just the ends of the pipes?
If both, only apply a small amount and use water soluble flux or it'll go in the pipes and corrode them ;)
I fired up my torch , turned on my head lamp , and started drilling holes in the wall tweaking balls. This was on and inspiring in the background
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You make the BEST plumbing videos! ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Brother I was gonna say I could just use one tee and one slip coupling will do it right?
Absolutely, i'm the one that messed up LOL, cheers man!
That's what I said my friend.
How about getting flux on the slip connectors. Do you just flux the joint and then slip the coupler on? Usually I find that just pushes all the flux out of the way
As you heat everything it'll flow inside, but yeah, try to make sure tgey are both well coated 🤘
I always coat the pipe and the inside of the fitting with flux. Then I put another dab of flux around the end of the fitting I’m soldering. I find that when I heat the opposite end prior to soldering, the flux at the far end gets pulled towards the heat, just like the solder. I always use an OD and ID pipe and fitting cleaning tool.
Wait a minute! This video is lacking some critical elements:
1) no loud obnoxious background music.
2) no rambling introduction.
3) no annoying digressions.
4) no out of focus camera or bad camera angles.
Wow, I think I’ll subscribe.
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Hahaha got scared there for a second, thanks Stroys!!!!!
what is the name of that slip coupling that fits directly into a fitting and pipe? Looking for 1'
Why cut both sides on slip couplings would one side be enough for our purpose
Depends on how much flex there is on the pipes. If there's a lot of flex, one cut will do it.
I know sharkbites are not popular here but in this application I have one observation. When using them on copper pipe, you need to remove the inner plastic sleeve/insert. Those are meant to be used only with plastic pipe. With copper pipe they flop around and get in the way and prevent full insertion. As you can see in video, he had to rock it around to get it to seat. Additionally, can restrict flow, cause turbulence and catch loose chips of scale in hot water lines and cause a blockage. So, again remove the insert when using on copper.
One might also assume this guy doesn't have much experience of plumbing!
This is not written anyplace on any of the technical sheets for sharkbite. I have done about a dozen connections exactly as the SB comes, on copper pipe.
The m12 tubing cutter will also fit in small spaces I love that tool
I am a prefab guy before in the field multi family and what I can tell you is service new construction and prefab I've done more than 5000 Sweat joints and no leaks so not a noob so what I'm saying is if tining flux prevent leaks why do you not use it every time just like Teflon then dope if it will make sure no leaks use it
At 1:18 you are adding an extra joint for no reason. You cut the pipe ONE extra time and then put your tee in place. Then slip your slip coupling into place and you can pull the pipes apart enough to get the last section into the tee. Slide up your slip coupling and then solder them all.
Once again, Got2Learn, you are awesome!!
Anyone know where you can get an adjustable slip coupling (3/4") in the U.S? I have an immediate project for it, and it would be great to cut a 6 joint project (integrating a shutoff valve using two slip couplings) to 3 joints, as the tight location will be difficult to work in. I've searched online but can't seem to find it.
You could always make your own like I showed in the vid, cheers!
@@Got2Learn I was referring to the adjustable slip coupling, not the standard slip couplings. In regards to the adjustable slip couplings, do they fit both L & K type copper?, or only one of them?
Ahhh, sorry I read wrong...
I haven't tested them out other than on L, but pretty sure they work on all types.
@@alchoy62 All Types of copper pipe have the same outside dimensions so they can use the same fittings, the only difference is in the wall thickness (with K being thickest and M being thinnest.)
Sometimes I don’t have a slip on me and filing that stuff really made my job easier thx
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Is soldering still a Thing in the US? In Austria this is outdated over 10 years.
Yes, still soldering a lot here.
Still cheap enough to do here
This is great stuff man! Very clear and well written. THANK YOU!
Glad you enjoyed it!
as usual - NEVER disappointed - and... I am anxiously waiting for your video on a complete Uponor distribution home run system. where each and every end is its own run. .. Your copper , brass, and solder is 100% awesome.. lets see some more Uponor PEX expansion ! P.S awesome video and many many thanx for the education ! .. I would love to see you go one on one with those guys from Mike Holmes !!!! you would send them to schoooooool !
I'm down to go on Mike Holmes 🤟🤟🤟
I love B the way you talk.
What about cpvc ? Same shark bite ?
Yes.
I would never use shark bite fittings inside a wall.
Are they terrible? The company I work for has just bought a load in.
@P Krasniqi Thanks for your insight and taking the time to reply mate.
I wouldn’t use one period. Total garbage.
@@zackzander425 I can't tell you how many I have dug up on water leak calls. Got to love the genius that puts them in the ground before a PRV. Some super genius I recently went behind put one inside the foundation wall. I'm assuming it was a repair from a leaking stub out, but ffs man. Shark bites are garbage.
Yes! It says right on the package not to use them in an inaccessible area (somewhere you cannot see it leak).
Why not make soldering in two points only with just one slip joint and use the T as the second slip joint?
What's the difference between Sterling 331755 and Sterling 85325 lead free solder? Thanks
Sterling has a lower melting point, less chances of burning the flux.
Yep. Use Autocuts too. Great for tight quarters.
I just happen to come across this video because of the algorithm and at some point this summer I do have to fix a pipe and do this and I was kind of wondering how I was going to do it and now I know
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other methods to removing a normal coupling detent is a reamer or dermal sander. if there’s a way to punch the detent back out you’d have no material lose.
Thanks. I don't need to solder often but these are good tricks to know.
Glad to help!!
Great little video...but, I have to add a tee between an elbow and a ball valve with just enough room for the tee...looks like I need to cut out the ball valve too :((...The video was good in the fact that I realized I had to cut the ball valve..thkx!
Idea for you.. why did I buy 1/2" od copper tubing. Type m and bought 1/2" I'd couplings and had a massive gap.. like way too much to even attempt to sweat
Something you forgot, they make a tee with a male end, works nice with a slip coupling or a piece of over size repair pipe.
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I have an off brand of that type of cutter but mine crushes the pipe a bit. does the auto cut crush the pipe inward?
You mean create a burr?
It does leave a burr but also crushes the pipe since the cutting wheel pushes so hard on the pipe.
Maybe your cutting disk is not good anymore?
@@Got2Learn I think I'll scrap mine and try the auto cut
@@DEKARKS worth a try 🙏