Valve lash stock is set at .008" which is WAY too much. So i set mine to .003" and never had a problem, and its quiet. I didnt mention to do this while engine is warm.
Hey guys. Just want to make a psa. I followed the instructions in this video about a month ago and adjusted my valve lash to .003 HOT. My truck had a rough idle and stalled occasionally as well had starting issues. Going down a list, I replaced the ECU, injectors, fuel pressure regulator. The trucks performance improved slightly with each upgrade but it still had issues stalling and rough idle. I just adjusted my valve lash to .007 intake and .010 exhaust and the trucks idle improved a lot. .003 is too tight and you can possibly burn your valves. Even .007/ .010 is still too tight. Please follow the factor spec. It exists for a god damn reason! Now my situation is not perfect. I have a bigger lift on my cam. I think it went from 30 lift (stock) to 50 lift after having it ground. Keep this in mind fellas. Long story short. If your engine is idling rough after you have made a lash adjustment ITS TOO TIGHT.
I second that. .003 is too tight. I tightened mine to .003 and the truck started idling rough. I checked everything. I replaced my carb, plugs, wires, half of the ignition system, I treated the truck with the Seafoam, nothing helped. Turned out the valves were too tight from .003 adjustment, I set it to intake=0.008" (0.2mm) exhaust=0.012" (0.3mm), per factory specifications and the car is super quiet and idles a lot better. I just hope I didn't damage my valves.
Dune Master I am going to make another adjustment. I might shoot a video on my phone. I will set it to .0025 lash and demonstrate how it affects the compression. Then of course creep up on lash clearance. Demonstrating that as well. How is your truck doing?
@@poopl00p3rmy truck still idles a little rough, but notably better since I loosened up the valves. I have a Chilton Manual and it says: "(Valve) Clearance for all engines should be 0.25mm". But under my hood, Mazda sticker says to set it to intake=0.008" (0.2mm) exhaust=0.012" (0.3mm). I set it to the Mazda specs. What do you think? Also, I just switched to a Weber carb and I think it runs rich because the plugs are black with soot. Maybe that's the reason it still idles rough. I have an 86 Mazda B2000 with 116k miles.
Hey man I wanted to thank you for these vids. I love my truck and I bought it off a guy with a bad bearing. Sucker was smashed razor thin and therewas metal all over in the motor. I have watched your videos about a million times and continue to watch them. My name is Justin and I'm from washington state.
Weirdly the New Zealand assembled 2.0 engines have the cam gear with numbers (the same as your 2.2 engine) instead of the letters . We always seem to have slight differences down here with locally produced vehicles, I guess they just built engines from whatever parts Mazda shipped here. Excellent video, very helpful. Thanks.
This guy is right on everything here except the valve clearance. .003 is WAY TOO TIGHT. You can burn a valve and will lose power like CRAZY. Factory is .012 HOT. Mazda Mitch sets them at .010 COLD. I set mine to .003 and I cant make it up a hill. I'm hoping I didn't burn a valve on a brand new head on a brand new engine here. With all due respect sir.
I tried this and set it at .003 one of my rocker arms broke. On a B2000 . I had to buy another head I was missing parts. When I started working on the truck there were only two of the alignment pins and there is suppose to be six. The book says 12. I just got these set to 9. Now the truck does not want to turn over. Before I started screwing with it would turn over and run. Not sure what to do now.
If this is a four stroke engine. Four stroke takes 2 cycles, which means it takes 720 degree to finish a cycle. So, don't you have to take 180 degrees for a cylinder to come to compression? 720 degrees/4 cylinders = 180 degrees?? What I mean is you have to turn 180 degrees to adjust the cylinder which is in compression stroke.
I recently bought a junkyard special, 2.0 with 100k miles, dropped it in replaced gaskets, seales, and wires...the basics. When I go to change the timing belt I noticed it had 2.2 head. What belt do I use? A 2.2 or 2.0?
That's something I just learned of. All I know is one of the belts is a .5" less than the other. Not sure which is which tho. Look under the header and see which block you have. I would say go with what the block says. Not the head. Cause the front of a 2.0 is slightly differ from the 2.2. The number is close to the 3rd piston on driver side about an inch below the head.
So, you know better than the engineers who designed this engine. Stay with factory specs or burn a valve. This is very poor advise! Or they will bind up and brake a valve spring. And who cares how loud they are cold any way.
Hey guys. Just want to make a psa. I followed the instructions in this video about a month ago and adjusted my valve lash to .003 HOT. My truck had a rough idle and stalled occasionally as well had starting issues.
Going down a list, I replaced the ECU, injectors, fuel pressure regulator. The trucks performance improved slightly with each upgrade but it still had issues stalling and rough idle.
I just adjusted my valve lash to .007 intake and .010 exhaust and the trucks idle improved a lot. .003 is too tight and you can possibly burn your valves.
Even .007/ .010 is still too tight. Please follow the factor spec. It exists for a god damn reason!
Now my situation is not perfect. I have a bigger lift on my cam. I think it went from 30 lift (stock) to 50 lift after having it ground. Keep this in mind fellas.
Long story short. If your engine is idling rough after you have made a lash adjustment ITS TOO TIGHT.
I second that. .003 is too tight. I tightened mine to .003 and the truck started idling rough. I checked everything. I replaced my carb, plugs, wires, half of the ignition system, I treated the truck with the Seafoam, nothing helped. Turned out the valves were too tight from .003 adjustment, I set it to intake=0.008" (0.2mm)
exhaust=0.012" (0.3mm), per factory specifications and the car is super quiet and idles a lot better. I just hope I didn't damage my valves.
Dune Master I am going to make another adjustment. I might shoot a video on my phone.
I will set it to .0025 lash and demonstrate how it affects the compression. Then of course creep up on lash clearance. Demonstrating that as well.
How is your truck doing?
@@poopl00p3rmy truck still idles a little rough, but notably better since I loosened up the valves. I have a Chilton Manual and it says: "(Valve) Clearance for all engines should be 0.25mm". But under my hood, Mazda sticker says to set it to intake=0.008" (0.2mm)
exhaust=0.012" (0.3mm). I set it to the Mazda specs. What do you think? Also, I just switched to a Weber carb and I think it runs rich because the plugs are black with soot. Maybe that's the reason it still idles rough. I have an 86 Mazda B2000 with 116k miles.
Hey man I wanted to thank you for these vids. I love my truck and I bought it off a guy with a bad bearing. Sucker was smashed razor thin and therewas metal all over in the motor. I have watched your videos about a million times and continue to watch them. My name is Justin and I'm from washington state.
I ended up rebuilding the thing from the ground up , and now its my daily.
Hell yes. I'm glad I could help you out for sure. Add me on facebase. Facebook.com/airbagjoe
yea man just added you today.
JoBles360 glad i could help you out :D
Weirdly the New Zealand assembled 2.0 engines have the cam gear with numbers (the same as your 2.2 engine) instead of the letters .
We always seem to have slight differences down here with locally produced vehicles, I guess they just built engines from whatever parts Mazda shipped here.
Excellent video, very helpful.
Thanks.
first actually useful information ive found all day! thank you!
would this hold true on a 2.0 and do you lash all of them, intake and exhaust on .003
This guy is right on everything here except the valve clearance. .003 is WAY TOO TIGHT. You can burn a valve and will lose power like CRAZY. Factory is .012 HOT. Mazda Mitch sets them at .010 COLD. I set mine to .003 and I cant make it up a hill. I'm hoping I didn't burn a valve on a brand new head on a brand new engine here. With all due respect sir.
I tried this and set it at .003 one of my rocker arms broke. On a B2000 . I had to buy another head I was missing parts. When I started working on the truck there were only two of the alignment pins and there is suppose to be six. The book says 12. I just got these set to 9. Now the truck does not want to turn over. Before I started screwing with it would turn over and run. Not sure what to do now.
Thanks for the tip , really appreciated
Thanks for this! I have mine adjusted to.08 and it's still so damn noisy. I'll try it out and see.
screw the noise, get a vehicle with hydraulic lifters if noise is a problem for you.
Can you teach how to adjust valve tappet with just two turns of the crankshaft?
please help how to detect hard starting of isuzu with computer box because mostly are now have a computer box i hope you help this problem
If this is a four stroke engine. Four stroke takes 2 cycles, which means it takes 720 degree to finish a cycle. So, don't you have to take 180 degrees for a cylinder to come to compression? 720 degrees/4 cylinders = 180 degrees?? What I mean is you have to turn 180 degrees to adjust the cylinder which is in compression stroke.
i liked the Q, unfortunately no answer. but you r right about the rotation angle as well as the next cylinder order
Hari Sri no, because he is turning the cam shaft, not the crankshaft
Hari u dont belong near a car😂😂😂😂
When you swap over to b2000 rockers do you use the b2000 cam or the b22 cam? I put mine to 8 and it still ticks like crazy.
The cams are the same. Set lash to .003 and you will never have a click
I recently bought a junkyard special, 2.0 with 100k miles, dropped it in replaced gaskets, seales, and wires...the basics.
When I go to change the timing belt I noticed it had 2.2 head.
What belt do I use? A 2.2 or 2.0?
That's something I just learned of. All I know is one of the belts is a .5" less than the other. Not sure which is which tho. Look under the header and see which block you have. I would say go with what the block says. Not the head. Cause the front of a 2.0 is slightly differ from the 2.2. The number is close to the 3rd piston on driver side about an inch below the head.
Joseph Wilkins thank man, i appreciate it. ill check it out, see what it says.
you're awesome man
My 2.0 and 2.2 the cam gear is the exact same.
The gears are the exact same. But the markings are different. Some 2.0 cams gears are like mine. But some arent
Would this goes for 03 ex civic 5 speed m/t
no, completely different
Book says .012 hot. .003 is way too tight.
Like 4jb1 4hl1 4hk 4hf1 all are isuzu diesel engine
So, you know better than the engineers who designed this engine. Stay with factory specs or burn a valve. This is very poor advise! Or they will bind up and brake a valve spring. And who cares how loud they are cold any way.
Lol all about preference bud, on my daily got 2 roll overs on my Speedo on .3 clearance