If You Can, this is a big help: www.patreon.com/wordsnwood ========== ========== This is just a quick little piece where I talk about another option for finishing. I used some (old) oil-based stain on a piece, and I wanted to put Waterbased polyurethane over top. I have done so before -- just make sure that the oil stain is FULLY cured and dry before doing so. Usually you can find this allowed for in the instructions. However, in this case I was using an old can of stain which DID NOT say any such thing, and my polyurethane had been moved to a jar, because the can was failing. So I did not have the original can with original instructions. Still, it probably would have been fine. But I also had some sealcoat shellac, and that is known as the "universal bonding coat" or something like that. That is to say, you can put (dewaxed !!!) shellac OVER any finish, and also UNDER any finish. Doesn't matter if it is oil, lacquer, or waterbased polyurethane. So in this video I chatted about that while working on a very simple favour project for a friend.
You can also cut your shellac with more alcohol and it’ll dry almost immediately. When I do a second colour of milk paint I do a “spit coat” of shellac that’s cut 1:4 with alcohol. It’s so thin you’d think it does nothing but it works!
I'm like: "should I make full sides? would it look better?" but all she wanted was a topper... But in all seriousness, if you can hide some infrastructure with style, I think that's a win. Thanks, Matt!
You absolutely can use foam brushes with shellac. I used one foam brush to put several coats of shellac on a large project over a span of a couple days. No degradation at all. I really like that minwax oil modified water-based poly that you are using. The price has gone through the roof lately, unfortunately.
That looks like a terrible idea. Window a/c units aren't built to be used as tabletops. That one already looks like it doesn't have enough tilt towards the outside to drain properly; Adding a bunch of weight so that it pitches even more towards the inside, or breaks the drywall or whatever surrounding it... Also, sliding 320 grit a couple times across poly is either lazy or ignorant...
Looks nice. Interesting finish. Easy. How many coats of acrylic poly does the shellac 'save' you from doing? Or are you doing this to get a little more warmth in there? As I become an old curmudgeon, I seem to experiment less with mixing finishes like this. Based on the scene at 4:00, it almost looks like a piece of Pecan or Hickory or something. Maybe even a bland Acacia. I would've never guessed Oak, so your finish is a total win!
I'd say that after shellac, the 1st coat of poly felt like the 2nd or 3rd coat, if I'd applied it to bare wood. But of course, in this instance it was just about demonstrating how it provides a safe barrier coat between these two finishes. I've never worked with Pecan, but I thought Hickory had a more wild grain with lots of colour contrasts. This was just plain locally grown white oak. This was leftovers from my sewing desk that I built my wife in the previous video: ua-cam.com/video/SYHv2y8-nz0/v-deo.html But of course, this was stained...
@@Wordsnwood Good morning, Mr. Mulder. Sure, Hickory does tend to have lots of contrasts. _On average._ That's what I love about wood. There's so much overlap between varieties (not to mention a log's size/age, cut, and health), that sometimes it gets seriously tough to tell. Especially after an unconventional finish. Beware the guy who claims to recognize a species instantly!
@@pocket83squared Absolutely. I confess it was only recently that I learned that "red oak" actually covers a whole bunch of related species. Same for white oak, etc. Have a great weekend, sir.
Nice job Art. I love dewaxed shellac. I used to buy the sealcoat but it's getting harder to find near me in the quart size so I've been mixing my own from flakes. I do like only mixing what I'll use and the flakes can last for nearly indefinitely if you keep the cool and sealed. I use the coffee grinder trick shown by marc spagnuolo. Dewaxed shellac is great for tinting with transtint dyes too.
If You Can, this is a big help: www.patreon.com/wordsnwood
========== ==========
This is just a quick little piece where I talk about another option for finishing.
I used some (old) oil-based stain on a piece, and I wanted to put Waterbased polyurethane over top.
I have done so before -- just make sure that the oil stain is FULLY cured and dry before doing so. Usually you can find this allowed for in the instructions.
However, in this case I was using an old can of stain which DID NOT say any such thing, and my polyurethane had been moved to a jar, because the can was failing. So I did not have the original can with original instructions.
Still, it probably would have been fine. But I also had some sealcoat shellac, and that is known as the "universal bonding coat" or something like that.
That is to say, you can put (dewaxed !!!) shellac OVER any finish, and also UNDER any finish. Doesn't matter if it is oil, lacquer, or waterbased polyurethane.
So in this video I chatted about that while working on a very simple favour project for a friend.
You can also cut your shellac with more alcohol and it’ll dry almost immediately. When I do a second colour of milk paint I do a “spit coat” of shellac that’s cut 1:4 with alcohol. It’s so thin you’d think it does nothing but it works!
Well, TIL! Thanks!
The next style of industrial table base: an ac unit
I'm like: "should I make full sides? would it look better?" but all she wanted was a topper... But in all seriousness, if you can hide some infrastructure with style, I think that's a win. Thanks, Matt!
@@Wordsnwood Pull the unit and veneer it. go all in
@@mcremona Dang it... should have done a waterfall river table! 😍
You know what I use for a final buffing? Plain, ol' brown paper bag. Smoooooth. (And free.)
I use that on lacquer because youtube tells me too... haven't tried it on shellac. thanks!
shellac is cool "ground layer" for acrylic semimatt varnish in my opinion. Makes wood more shiny, like "poorman-style french polish" ;P
Those green pads are about the equivalent of 600 grit, if my reading is correct.
You absolutely can use foam brushes with shellac.
I used one foam brush to put several coats of shellac on a large project over a span of a couple days. No degradation at all.
I really like that minwax oil modified water-based poly that you are using. The price has gone through the roof lately, unfortunately.
Interesting. I never dared try.
That looks like a terrible idea. Window a/c units aren't built to be used as tabletops. That one already looks like it doesn't have enough tilt towards the outside to drain properly; Adding a bunch of weight so that it pitches even more towards the inside, or breaks the drywall or whatever surrounding it... Also, sliding 320 grit a couple times across poly is either lazy or ignorant...
Looks nice. Interesting finish. Easy. How many coats of acrylic poly does the shellac 'save' you from doing? Or are you doing this to get a little more warmth in there? As I become an old curmudgeon, I seem to experiment less with mixing finishes like this.
Based on the scene at 4:00, it almost looks like a piece of Pecan or Hickory or something. Maybe even a bland Acacia. I would've never guessed Oak, so your finish is a total win!
I'd say that after shellac, the 1st coat of poly felt like the 2nd or 3rd coat, if I'd applied it to bare wood. But of course, in this instance it was just about demonstrating how it provides a safe barrier coat between these two finishes.
I've never worked with Pecan, but I thought Hickory had a more wild grain with lots of colour contrasts. This was just plain locally grown white oak. This was leftovers from my sewing desk that I built my wife in the previous video: ua-cam.com/video/SYHv2y8-nz0/v-deo.html
But of course, this was stained...
@@Wordsnwood Good morning, Mr. Mulder. Sure, Hickory does tend to have lots of contrasts. _On average._ That's what I love about wood. There's so much overlap between varieties (not to mention a log's size/age, cut, and health), that sometimes it gets seriously tough to tell. Especially after an unconventional finish. Beware the guy who claims to recognize a species instantly!
@@pocket83squared Absolutely. I confess it was only recently that I learned that "red oak" actually covers a whole bunch of related species. Same for white oak, etc. Have a great weekend, sir.
I often use the foam brushes with shellac but yeah they’ll start to fall apart eventually.
Thanks arkadaşlar afiyet olsun
My man! Helping out in the community. Good on ya.
I try. Sometimes. ;-) thanks!
👍💯👍
You can use “regular shellac”, the non dewaxed, if you aren’t using a poly anywhere below or above that coat.
Well yeah, but then it's not "universal" ... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Nice job Art. I love dewaxed shellac. I used to buy the sealcoat but it's getting harder to find near me in the quart size so I've been mixing my own from flakes. I do like only mixing what I'll use and the flakes can last for nearly indefinitely if you keep the cool and sealed. I use the coffee grinder trick shown by marc spagnuolo. Dewaxed shellac is great for tinting with transtint dyes too.
I actually usually grab a can when I cross the boarder, as it is easier to find in US big box stores than here in Canada.
That's really great to know!
My pleasure, Forby!
RIP STEVE ALBINI
??
@@Wordsnwood you don't know enough about Shellac
Good tip Art, thanks! !! !!!