Your a life saver. I would have never known how to fix my gutter. I did what you showed in the video and a few rain showers and a downpour later, no water behind the gutter. Thanks so much and may God bless you.
Awesome content mate! Been installing seamless artwork for 22 years, and viewing important vids like this, for us technicians to be much more preceptive with installs to properly service customers is (or even home owners to be weary)..... Monumental!!! For some great skillmanship/craftsmanship! POSITIVE VIBES/& ALL BUT THE BEST TOWARDS YA! Cheers!!!FROM Southern California
Thanks. I have exactly that problem near my downspout. I thought it was my gutter and did some sealing but would not work. Now, your video has given me insight on what to do. Amen !
Oh I needed to see your video today!! We just had a new roof put on our entire house and after they finished I decided to add gutters to the side of the house. I had not noticed that when the new roof was put on the company removed a small molding strip that went around the entire house. This strip allowed the roof or drip edge to stick out 3/4 " or so from the fascia board, which was great and has saved that board over the past 70 years from rot due to water seepage. Now as I am out there trying to put on gutter I am noticing exactly what you discussed, the drip edge does not go down to the gutter and the drip edge is tight up against the fascia board leaving you no hope of getting the gutter under any portion of the drip edge. Needless to say, I am just sick that this has happened and I am currently trying to find something I can push up under the new drip edge and lap it over into the gutter to protect the fascia. Does anyone know of anything I could purchase and get back up there and fix this issue before rain begins? At 70 years old I am not as spry as I use to be but I have worked my butt off to get this far and don't want to leave it this way!
Great video. I so appreciate you sharing your expertise. Question for you -- How do you attach the Z-flashing if the shingles are already nailed onto the roof? Do you need to lift up the bottom few rows of shingles, attach the Z-flashing, then re-shingle those bottom few rows of the roof?
Oh my gosh. Thank you so much! You’ve helped me more than the 5 companies I’ve had come look at my gutters. Mine are doing the same thing but you just helped me to be able to fix it myself so I don’t get ripped off a second time . Thank you
I am so happy I found your video! you literally explained to me why the corner of my home roof to my lower patio roof is leaking behind the flashing and transition while it rains. makes complete sense! Ill have to extend the flashing hopefully this will work!
This is exactly what I have been looking for to explain water behind my gutter. I still have a few drops behind gutter after installing the drip edge extension. Still need to understand why.
5:00 the drip edge extension can actually curve backwards towards the house as water will follow any surface that's heading downhill because of surface tension. That also allows you access to the gutter to clear out leaf debris.
Thank you and bless you! You have done many a great service in sharing your knowledge, I wish more handymen and even gutter specialists spent more time learning the physics of water flow.
The drip edge needs to be installed a quarter inch from the fascia to PREVENT water adhesion and go straight into the gutter, that gap will not allow the water to curl.
The problem is that the roofers installed the shingles even with the drip which is incorrect. Those shingles should be installed 3/4-1"past the drip edge.
Exactly. The roofers do their job and they completely fail in correcting the gutter issues also. There is a total disconnect in the skill set around my neck of the woods. Not enough training of the workers. The shingle does need to hang pas the edge, past the drip edge as you say 3/4 to an inch. Then the drip edge has a chance, and it better be inside the gutter wall as well.
Instead of messing with extra flashing, I took a tube of gutter sealant and ran a small bead at the top of the gutter where it meets the fascia. Seems to have solved it. My shingles are cut even with the drip edge and the drip edge is tight against the fascia, I think that may be the culprit.
Thank You so much I made sure it was as close as it could be. Barely could get a hair between it and it still leaked in one spot. It was driving me crazy
Great video,, I've got water coming down between the j- channel and the facia. And it's right in front of the door. It's not annoying when it's rain but drives me crazy when there is snow melting. I took off the soffit and the gutter guards to see where it was coming through. No water coming through until I put the gutter guard back on. Hope this will help.
Also, when rain drops hit gutters and gutter edges, they explode in tiny droplets in all directions. Most drip edge systems seem too skimpy to handle this effect. Lastly, cold rainwater can cause condensation to form on the outside of gutters.
Z flashing with a sharp edge too far extended our can slice hands of gutter cleaners not wearing gloves. I get mine with a fold back edge that also stiffen the sheet metal. On facia gutters sometimes the flashing and gutter hangers make install difficult. Also bring out flashing and drip edge too far can mean wasps try and set up home in the gap.You can’t win. And worse, the lack of attention to detail by some roofers when it comes to all these issues can be really appalling.
I live in down under, sometimes its because of blocked downpipe and the gutter is pooling water and cannot discharge the water through the downpipe and it starts to overlow behind the gutter
A proper gutter install starts with a good roof design. A hip roof is by far the best, valleys, gables, and gutters don't work and focus all the water into one area making them overflow.
Thanks for the info! Not sure if your more recent videos are the same, but please balance/flatten the volume. I had it cranked up to hear what you're saying the whole time. Then, the music at the end blew out my ear drums. lol
looking at your video (at 315 say), whoever put our gutters on has a slope on the gutter from one end towards the downspout but put the high end up so high that they double tin snipped the drip edge on each side of where the "nails and tubes" are and then bent it upwards to get the gutter up so the drip edge would be inside the gutter. is that what should have been done? i thought they make a gutter hanger or bracket with a crook in it to go down below the drip edge and then back up behind the drip edge...and then over the back of the gutter. i have water damage to my fascia in those areas and the nails have pulled out of the softened fascia. i would like to just buy some gutter clips / brackets / hangers / whatever they are called, and pull the gutter back against the fascia since water is dripping between them due to gutter sag and gutter filling up in that area. I can't get new gutters installed until next spring now due to cold weather where i am. i also need to get new shingles in 4-5 years and have heard different things on whether or not the drip edge should be there before the gutters are done or the gutters done after the shingles and rip edge are installed. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. oops. my drip edge is not close enough to the back of the gutter to be able to screw it flush like hou do
I install gutters, this is a good video. The only thing I would add is that I don’t work on or repair vinyl gutters or 10 ft sections of gutters. The repairs aren’t warranted and don’t last
Been angry at the industry for decades. Almost none of them have the brains to make the rear wall higher than the front, so that if the downpipe plugs up the water spills over the front instead of into the soffit. Also, they are designed such that the screw thru the bracket is often underwater. Not only leaks like in this video, but rots out the screw hole in the wood over time. Because the front edge needs to be below the extended roofline, to avoid sliding ice sheets from ripping off the gutters, it just makes sense to make the rear wall higher, under the shingles, with brackets that provide a higher screw hole. But common sense in design does not seem to exist.
Cuando puso el tornillo se vino toda el agua que ya de había metido entre el drip edge y el shingle por la mala instalación del shingle, diferentes problemas en el mismo lugar
Got any info on air leakage around that area? We have this freezing cold air coming into the walls of a certain area of the house making it super cold inside and I can't seem to pinpoint the problem. Could air be coming up under the fascia and somehow traveling into the inner frame of the house?
The one thing I was taught years ago when I learned roofing was to have the shingles hang over the drip edge about a half inch or so, then in the summer the shingle will sag enough so the water doesn't do the capillary action as said at the beginning of the demonstration.
wont screwing the drip edge pull up on the top where its nailed into the roof sheeting? pulling up nails eventually? shouldnt screws be down a bit plus you have to take those hangers out to to install it and somehow get them back in the exact spot lined up perfect
My gutter is dripping down the wall on the sealed side. I guess I made it unlevel somehow when I added the downspout recently on the other edge. It is a bit tricky to get right because I noticed if I angled the downspout that I was getting water dripping down behind the gutter. I feel like the one point closed side drip is better than the whole behind the gutter drop though
THanks for the great info! I have this problem and it seems to have been after I installed gutter brushes to keep large vegetation from plugging them (still require maintenance) but do you see a problem with using gutter brushes? Could it be interfering with the water flow?
Will a gutter contractor install gutter Z-flashing automatically because that looks like a nice idea to prevent future water leaks. My home has drip edge but isn’t evenly tight against my shingles. I see uneven areas and places less tight than other areas on my new home. Another question will gutter contractors bring drip edge of their own to install my new gutters or will the contractor make the gutters work with what’s already on my home.
Great video! Is it standard practice to put tar or some other sealant between the shingles and the drip edge so there’s a seal that prevents the water from going behind the gutter? Wondering if roofers do that when installing new roofs
I cleaned off my gutters as normal this year, because of a change in my back patio I had to reroute a downspout, when reattaching it, I could feel debris in it despite a gutter guard. I had to remove the gutter guard to clean out the aprox .5-1' of sludge including pine needles and stuff off of the roof. Is this normal? It certainly made me realize that I had a false sense of security with he gutter guards.
I failed to understand how extending the drip edge is going to stop the leak if the capillary action is not been stop at the shingle by not being sealed
I think the difference is the angle that the water is travelling. It's a much shallower angle off of/under the shingle, as opposed to having run down the flashing (extended drip edge). It would be fighting a lot more gravity to travel up the extension.
I have this issues with a metal roof. Roof Is flush with drip edge Runs up behind drip edge and rots fascia. Metal screws are at or near the edge of the. Frustrating 😮
03:00... What about the side of the house where there is no gutter? One issue I'm having is that on the side of the house, where there is no gutter since the roof doesn't angle that direction, water will run off the side because of wind or something and run down what I think is called the rafter... that wood overhang... basically what you show at 05:26 in the video, only not the right side of that drawing but the side facing the camera. There is a drip guard there but the water in one area appears to be clinging to the drip guard and then running down the side of the rafter before then dripping to the ground. Over time it removes the paint and starts to rot the wood. I repair it each year but would be nice to know what the fix is. I was thinking of doing the same thing shown in the video only bend the aluminum flashing outward near the bottom to redirect the water away from the rafter. Won't look pretty but would that work? Or is there a better solution?
Great video and explanation of where leaks may be coming from! On my 12-year-old roof, there is a leak between the gutter and fascia causing a small drip onto the ground and accumulation of water under the soffit. The edge of the roof shingles is flush with the tar paper underlayment. These roof edges extend slightly past the gutter drip edge and there is a gap of only a few millimeters between it and the gutter guard (and they are touching in some places). There is also a slight v-shape or ski jump at the bottom of the roof slope where a small amount of water accumulates after it rains. I can't determine whether the leak is caused by (1) the accumulation of water at the bottom of the roof, (2) water going back under the shingles or (3) water coming up from behind the drip edge inside the gutter. The gutters have a slight amount of debris accumulated in them, but not much. To stop my leak, I was going to try your suggestion of sticking some tar paper (or metal flashing) under the shingle but extending it out further over the gutter guard. But, being that my roof shingles are basically already touching the gutter guard, I am not confident it will change the "capillary action" you described that could currently be causing water to back up under the shingles. I am guessing that the roofer kept the gutters high and snug to the roof edge because the roof is low to the ground and people walk under it. Here are some questions: (1) If I put tar paper or metal flashing between the shingle and the gutter guard to try to extend the water an inch or two further from the fascia, should the new flashing be between the shingle and the existing underlayment or between the underlayment and the gutter guard? I am thinking the first of those two options would be better. (2) Is there anything that I can do to fix the v-shape at the bottom of the roof slope without having the gutters reinstalled lower? I appreciate any suggestions you may have to make inexpensive repairs to my roof. Thank you!!!
That video is excellent and answered a lot of my questions. Thank you. My shingles are strongly glued to the D edge. What do you think if I insert a flashing under/ behind the D edge? Would you recommend to screw it, the same way you showed that screw in the video or should I put some type of adhesive?
Problem is there is no watertight roofing to on top of the drip edge, water will find it's way under the roofing, as for the gutters themselves should been tucked under the drip edge completely so water makes no contact with wood, the shingles on that home does not look like it comes out far enough, at minimal should be nothing less then one inch to one quarter inch to resolve most these issues.
What if you put the flashing like you showed and screw the drip edge back in how does that stop it from going back in between where the shingles weren’t stuck down to the drip edge??? I’m having the same problem in a few spots and need to fix it asap.
Please help New construction and I have water leaking between the house and gutters. I can see the sky when I stand underneath the gutters. What can be done?
That doesn't necessarily mean the gutters won't work. The back of the gutter is not designed to be watertight. As long as it's mounted underneath a roof that will deliver the rainwater into its mouth, you're good to go.
I want to make sure I understand what you’re saying here. So you’re saying take some Z flashing and put it over or on top of the original flashing and the way you make it stick in place or stay in place is by using some type of black cement? So you never nail down the flashing ?
Roofers should have used gutter apron on the eaves instead of D edging. The gutters slide under the gutter apron. I always used D edging on the gable only.
I just had a new roof put on. Different contractor did seem less gutters. On the long runs I have a lot of water dripping between the back of the gutter down the fascia. My question is who do I raise hell with? The roofer or the gutter guy? There are a few areas where I can see light in the crack. Seems like the gutter should be more flush against the house but I don't know if that's possible & maybe they did the best they could?
I am a private homeowner and I just had a new roof put on and then I decided to add gutters myself so I would only have the roofer or myself to blame, but you have to look at the job done by both. In my instance I have worked by back side off to put these gutters on correctly and I am pretty much a perfectionist. You may need to ask a 3rd party to look at what has happened and see if the roofing has enough overhang to allow the water to drip off into the gutter or is it too short. I believe you should have 3/4" to 1" overhang. How tight is the drip edge? I thought, but may be wrong that roofers were suppose to leave a 1/2 inch gap between the drip edge and fascia board. My roofer failed to do that, and the drip edge is not long enough to cover the fascia board nor allow water to drip into the gutter. This being the case I am now finding myself having to purchase more drip edge that I can slip under the existing new drip edge and lap over into my gutters. My feeling is that my roofer messed up, however I put the gutters on myself. I have had to rip off fascia board from my storage building and replace it and I never want to do it again, however that is because I was doing it myself, just like the gutters, therefore I am choosing to purchase more drip edge and slide it under the existing drip edge and lapping it over into the gutters to make sure I have no rain dripping behind my gutters and rotting my fascia board. Since you didn't do the work I might call the gutter man and ask him to come back out and take a look at what is happening and ask if there is a way he could make the necessary corrections. If he feels it was the roofers bad work he will tell you and ask him to explain to you what the problem is. There are many possible reasons as to why this has happened and I can understand you being angry, but listen to the gutter man first, then ask what he can do to correct the issue.
Oh? Do you think this could explain why I have a leak in the ceiling corner upstairs, but my attic is completely dry? Roofers can't locate the problem.
Question: I'm about to get a new roof and saw that my neighbor had silicone caulking at the bottom edge of the gable apron all along it's length. Why would a roofer do that as does it need to be sealed at the bottom or not sealed? Also, if you have gutters and there is more than a 2" drop on the length.... do you need a edge that is 2" along the first part, and then an edge that is wider for when there is more than a 2" drop on the 16" lenghth? Thanks, and hope you are still answering your comments.
I'm no gutter guy, but as a hobbyist handyman, having caulking or a seal at the bottom of trim is a great way to trap water and rot stuff out. Water needs a pathway to drain if it gets behind stuff.
I am a novice, not a professional by any means, I too have had the same issue and in my humble opinion I am adding a wider drip edge. I feel it is necessary if you do not want additional problems down the road.
Thank you! We have this video showing our machine setup ua-cam.com/video/BMjXxZ1JZlI/v-deo.html We also have this video where we install one! ua-cam.com/video/Mr-Bflv9t58/v-deo.html
On my home I shimmed all the gutters half an inch off the home. So clogs and water drip down and dont cause damage. neighbor had her new gutters tight to soffit and it rotted. in 6 years. Just sayin if gutters overflow and they do water behind gutters will rot.
the more hole you create, you increase hole wire water can go in. best thing to do is to install the gutter underneath the drip edge. For me, I try to extend the drip with my hand to get a distance from the facia so the water cannot go behind the gutter
This is the best video I've seen about water dripping near gutters. Thank you for posting!
Thanks for demonstrating by pouring water down the roof. All the other videos on YT don't do that. Cheers mate.
Your a life saver. I would have never known how to fix my gutter. I did what you showed in the video and a few rain showers and a downpour later, no water behind the gutter. Thanks so much and may God bless you.
That was exactly what I was looking for. Perfect explanation that fit my issue. Thank you.
Awesome content mate! Been installing seamless artwork for 22 years, and viewing important vids like this, for us technicians to be much more preceptive with installs to properly service customers is (or even home owners to be weary)..... Monumental!!! For some great skillmanship/craftsmanship!
POSITIVE VIBES/& ALL BUT THE BEST TOWARDS YA!
Cheers!!!FROM Southern California
Much appreciated!
Thanks. I have exactly that problem near my downspout. I thought it was my gutter and did some sealing but would not work. Now, your video has given me insight on what to do. Amen !
This is the best video I've found for drip edge issues. Thanks
Oh I needed to see your video today!! We just had a new roof put on our entire house and after they finished I decided to add gutters to the side of the house. I had not noticed that when the new roof was put on the company removed a small molding strip that went around the entire house. This strip allowed the roof or drip edge to stick out 3/4 " or so from the fascia board, which was great and has saved that board over the past 70 years from rot due to water seepage. Now as I am out there trying to put on gutter I am noticing exactly what you discussed, the drip edge does not go down to the gutter and the drip edge is tight up against the fascia board leaving you no hope of getting the gutter under any portion of the drip edge. Needless to say, I am just sick that this has happened and I am currently trying to find something I can push up under the new drip edge and lap it over into the gutter to protect the fascia. Does anyone know of anything I could purchase and get back up there and fix this issue before rain begins? At 70 years old I am not as spry as I use to be but I have worked my butt off to get this far and don't want to leave it this way!
Slip flashing
Great video. I so appreciate you sharing your expertise. Question for you -- How do you attach the Z-flashing if the shingles are already nailed onto the roof? Do you need to lift up the bottom few rows of shingles, attach the Z-flashing, then re-shingle those bottom few rows of the roof?
Oh my gosh. Thank you so much! You’ve helped me more than the 5 companies I’ve had come look at my gutters. Mine are doing the same thing but you just helped me to be able to fix it myself so I don’t get ripped off a second time . Thank you
Direct and to the point! Helped me 💯
Great video and simple explanations without loud music and yelling.
I am so happy I found your video! you literally explained to me why the corner of my home roof to my lower patio roof is leaking behind the flashing and transition while it rains. makes complete sense! Ill have to extend the flashing hopefully this will work!
Awesome!
This is exactly what I have been looking for to explain water behind my gutter. I still have a few drops behind gutter after installing the drip edge extension. Still need to understand why.
could be a low pitched roof and the water is flowing behind the dripedge
@@StartARainGutterBusiness
If it’s a flat roof and that’s what is happening how can I fix it?
5:00 the drip edge extension can actually curve backwards towards the house as water will follow any surface that's heading downhill because of surface tension. That also allows you access to the gutter to clear out leaf debris.
Thank you and bless you! You have done many a great service in sharing your knowledge, I wish more handymen and even gutter specialists spent more time learning the physics of water flow.
The drip edge needs to be installed a quarter inch from the fascia to PREVENT water adhesion and go straight into the gutter, that gap will not allow the water to curl.
The problem is that the roofers installed the shingles even with the drip which is incorrect. Those shingles should be installed 3/4-1"past the drip edge.
Exactly. The roofers do their job and they completely fail in correcting the gutter issues also. There is a total disconnect in the skill set around my neck of the woods. Not enough training of the workers. The shingle does need to hang pas the edge, past the drip edge as you say 3/4 to an inch. Then the drip edge has a chance, and it better be inside the gutter wall as well.
Absolutely. It starts with roof!
@@joq702exactly! That's why I have a disclaimer on my Install invoices saying I'm not liable for roofers error
@@joey8567 no it doesnt!
@@brownitsdown yes it does
Very helpful - thank you for the straight forward video.
Instead of messing with extra flashing, I took a tube of gutter sealant and ran a small bead at the top of the gutter where it meets the fascia. Seems to have solved it. My shingles are cut even with the drip edge and the drip edge is tight against the fascia, I think that may be the culprit.
Clear explanations and visuals! Thank you so much.
Thanks man! That was very informative-appreciate you taking the time to educate us!
Thank You so much I made sure it was as close as it could be. Barely could get a hair between it and it still leaked in one spot. It was driving me crazy
Helped me alot! I've got to tweak some of my gutter problems and this video is very clear in what I must do. Thanks so much!
Glad it helped!
Great video,, I've got water coming down between the j- channel and the facia. And it's right in front of the door. It's not annoying when it's rain but drives me crazy when there is snow melting.
I took off the soffit and the gutter guards to see where it was coming through. No water coming through until I put the gutter guard back on.
Hope this will help.
Also, when rain drops hit gutters and gutter edges, they explode in tiny droplets in all directions. Most drip edge systems seem too skimpy to handle this effect. Lastly, cold rainwater can cause condensation to form on the outside of gutters.
Z flashing with a sharp edge too far extended our can slice hands of gutter cleaners not wearing gloves. I get mine with a fold back edge that also stiffen the sheet metal. On facia gutters sometimes the flashing and gutter hangers make install difficult. Also bring out flashing and drip edge too far can mean wasps try and set up home in the gap.You can’t win. And worse, the lack of attention to detail by some roofers when it comes to all these issues can be really appalling.
I live in down under, sometimes its because of blocked downpipe and the gutter is pooling water and cannot discharge the water through the downpipe and it starts to overlow behind the gutter
Nice job. Good, to the point, explanation and whiteboard explanation
A proper gutter install starts with a good roof design. A hip roof is by far the best, valleys, gables, and gutters don't work and focus all the water into one area making them overflow.
Thanks for the info!
Not sure if your more recent videos are the same, but please balance/flatten the volume. I had it cranked up to hear what you're saying the whole time. Then, the music at the end blew out my ear drums. lol
looking at your video (at 315 say), whoever put our gutters on has a slope on the gutter from one end towards the downspout but put the high end up so high that they double tin snipped the drip edge on each side of where the "nails and tubes" are and then bent it upwards to get the gutter up so the drip edge would be inside the gutter. is that what should have been done? i thought they make a gutter hanger or bracket with a crook in it to go down below the drip edge and then back up behind the drip edge...and then over the back of the gutter. i have water damage to my fascia in those areas and the nails have pulled out of the softened fascia. i would like to just buy some gutter clips / brackets / hangers / whatever they are called, and pull the gutter back against the fascia since water is dripping between them due to gutter sag and gutter filling up in that area. I can't get new gutters installed until next spring now due to cold weather where i am. i also need to get new shingles in 4-5 years and have heard different things on whether or not the drip edge should be there before the gutters are done or the gutters done after the shingles and rip edge are installed. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. oops. my drip edge is not close enough to the back of the gutter to be able to screw it flush like hou do
I install gutters, this is a good video. The only thing I would add is that I don’t work on or repair vinyl gutters or 10 ft sections of gutters. The repairs aren’t warranted and don’t last
Super helpful video! Thank u for taking time to post!
Thanks so much for this video ,you gave me an excellent idea and info. Thanks so much . London Ontario
Been angry at the industry for decades. Almost none of them have the brains to make the rear wall higher than the front, so that if the downpipe plugs up the water spills over the front instead of into the soffit. Also, they are designed such that the screw thru the bracket is often underwater. Not only leaks like in this video, but rots out the screw hole in the wood over time. Because the front edge needs to be below the extended roofline, to avoid sliding ice sheets from ripping off the gutters, it just makes sense to make the rear wall higher, under the shingles, with brackets that provide a higher screw hole. But common sense in design does not seem to exist.
Right!? I wonder why they have not done that by this point.
Can you use pvc piping effectively for guttering?
Cuando puso el tornillo se vino toda el agua que ya de había metido entre el drip edge y el shingle por la mala instalación del shingle, diferentes problemas en el mismo lugar
Got any info on air leakage around that area? We have this freezing cold air coming into the walls of a certain area of the house making it super cold inside and I can't seem to pinpoint the problem. Could air be coming up under the fascia and somehow traveling into the inner frame of the house?
super helpful and clear thank you
The one thing I was taught years ago when I learned roofing was to have the shingles hang over the drip edge about a half inch or so, then in the summer the shingle will sag enough so the water doesn't do the capillary action as said at the beginning of the demonstration.
What about a standing seam roof where you can’t get the gutter underneath the drip edge drip edge is too thick metal can’t bend it out
wont screwing the drip edge pull up on the top where its nailed into the roof sheeting? pulling up nails eventually? shouldnt screws be down a bit plus you have to take those hangers out to to install it and somehow get them back in the exact spot lined up perfect
My gutter is dripping down the wall on the sealed side. I guess I made it unlevel somehow when I added the downspout recently on the other edge. It is a bit tricky to get right because I noticed if I angled the downspout that I was getting water dripping down behind the gutter. I feel like the one point closed side drip is better than the whole behind the gutter drop though
Thank You for the free tutorial flashing is important and z flashing sounds to be the cure : )
Happy to help! Thanks for watching
Very nice. Helps me make some decisions. Thanks
THanks for the great info! I have this problem and it seems to have been after I installed gutter brushes to keep large vegetation from plugging them (still require maintenance) but do you see a problem with using gutter brushes? Could it be interfering with the water flow?
Will a gutter contractor install gutter Z-flashing automatically because that looks like a nice idea to prevent future water leaks.
My home has drip edge but isn’t evenly tight against my shingles.
I see uneven areas and places less tight than other areas on my new home. Another question will gutter contractors bring drip edge of their own to install my new gutters or will the contractor make the gutters work with what’s already on my home.
What if I want to add a few gutter clips for reinforcement? Do I need a rubber washer with these?
Great video! Is it standard practice to put tar or some other sealant between the shingles and the drip edge so there’s a seal that prevents the water from going behind the gutter? Wondering if roofers do that when installing new roofs
Me too! Glad your going to be making more videos. I still have lots to learn!
Appreciate the support!! We are always looking for video ideas if there is anything specific you are looking for!
would 3ft of a very good self sticking ice and water shield of worked to of prevented this?
Yes, but metal flashing is a more permanent solution
I cleaned off my gutters as normal this year, because of a change in my back patio I had to reroute a downspout, when reattaching it, I could feel debris in it despite a gutter guard. I had to remove the gutter guard to clean out the aprox .5-1' of sludge including pine needles and stuff off of the roof. Is this normal? It certainly made me realize that I had a false sense of security with he gutter guards.
I like the idea of the Z flashing. I'm surprised it's not code everywhere.
Hi. Thanks so much for a video providing solutions!
good info on leak behind gutter
I failed to understand how extending the drip edge is going to stop the leak if the capillary action is not been stop at the shingle by not being sealed
I think the difference is the angle that the water is travelling. It's a much shallower angle off of/under the shingle, as opposed to having run down the flashing (extended drip edge). It would be fighting a lot more gravity to travel up the extension.
I have this issues with a metal roof. Roof Is flush with drip edge
Runs up behind drip edge and rots fascia. Metal screws are at or near the edge of the. Frustrating
😮
Just add another gutter apron under the roofing and into the gutter
03:00... What about the side of the house where there is no gutter?
One issue I'm having is that on the side of the house, where there is no gutter since the roof doesn't angle that direction, water will run off the side because of wind or something and run down what I think is called the rafter... that wood overhang... basically what you show at 05:26 in the video, only not the right side of that drawing but the side facing the camera. There is a drip guard there but the water in one area appears to be clinging to the drip guard and then running down the side of the rafter before then dripping to the ground. Over time it removes the paint and starts to rot the wood. I repair it each year but would be nice to know what the fix is. I was thinking of doing the same thing shown in the video only bend the aluminum flashing outward near the bottom to redirect the water away from the rafter. Won't look pretty but would that work? Or is there a better solution?
you could install a j channel under the drip and divert it to a safer place!
@@StartARainGutterBusiness thanks
Great Videos!! Thank you for all professionalism and GOOD information!! You are they GO TO video for learning and information!!
We really appreciate the kind words!! So glad we can hep out
Holy smokes! Old T-lock shingles! Haven’t seen them in decades.
Thanks soooooo much for the z flashing tip..
If you come to a house where the drip edge is screwed on tight, do you unscrew it or do you extend the drip edge and add charge extra?
Great video.
If eavestrough is blocked or something like this happens, would water damage occur in the house? if so, how?
Great video and explanation of where leaks may be coming from! On my 12-year-old roof, there is a leak between the gutter and fascia causing a small drip onto the ground and accumulation of water under the soffit. The edge of the roof shingles is flush with the tar paper underlayment. These roof edges extend slightly past the gutter drip edge and there is a gap of only a few millimeters between it and the gutter guard (and they are touching in some places). There is also a slight v-shape or ski jump at the bottom of the roof slope where a small amount of water accumulates after it rains.
I can't determine whether the leak is caused by (1) the accumulation of water at the bottom of the roof, (2) water going back under the shingles or (3) water coming up from behind the drip edge inside the gutter. The gutters have a slight amount of debris accumulated in them, but not much. To stop my leak, I was going to try your suggestion of sticking some tar paper (or metal flashing) under the shingle but extending it out further over the gutter guard. But, being that my roof shingles are basically already touching the gutter guard, I am not confident it will change the "capillary action" you described that could currently be causing water to back up under the shingles. I am guessing that the roofer kept the gutters high and snug to the roof edge because the roof is low to the ground and people walk under it.
Here are some questions: (1) If I put tar paper or metal flashing between the shingle and the gutter guard to try to extend the water an inch or two further from the fascia, should the new flashing be between the shingle and the existing underlayment or between the underlayment and the gutter guard? I am thinking the first of those two options would be better. (2) Is there anything that I can do to fix the v-shape at the bottom of the roof slope without having the gutters reinstalled lower? I appreciate any suggestions you may have to make inexpensive repairs to my roof. Thank you!!!
Whoever put on your gutter guard may have damaged some of your shingles
That video is excellent and answered a lot of my questions. Thank you. My shingles are strongly glued to the D edge. What do you think if I insert a flashing under/ behind the D edge? Would you recommend to screw it, the same way you showed that screw in the video or should I put some type of adhesive?
if the drip edge is tight, just put some adhesive on the back and the drip will hold it till it cures
I have this issue. Can’t I just run a bead of outdoor caulking between the drip edge and gutter?
Thank you. This is quite helpful.
Just what I needed! Thanks!
Problem is there is no watertight roofing to on top of the drip edge, water will find it's way under the roofing, as for the gutters themselves should been tucked under the drip edge completely so water makes no contact with wood, the shingles on that home does not look like it comes out far enough, at minimal should be nothing less then one inch to one quarter inch to resolve most these issues.
What if you put the flashing like you showed and screw the drip edge back in how does that stop it from going back in between where the shingles weren’t stuck down to the drip edge??? I’m having the same problem in a few spots and need to fix it asap.
How do you install a gutter when there is a 2 inch board over the facia board
Please help
New construction and I have water leaking between the house and gutters. I can see the sky when I stand underneath the gutters. What can be done?
That doesn't necessarily mean the gutters won't work. The back of the gutter is not designed to be watertight. As long as it's mounted underneath a roof that will deliver the rainwater into its mouth, you're good to go.
I thought the drip edge was not supposed to lay flat against the back of the gutter?
Thank you so much for your video.
I want to make sure I understand what you’re saying here. So you’re saying take some Z flashing and put it over or on top of the original flashing and the way you make it stick in place or stay in place is by using some type of black cement?
So you never nail down the flashing ?
Install flashing under the drip. attach if necessary
Roofers should have used gutter apron on the eaves instead of D edging. The gutters slide under the gutter apron. I always used D edging on the gable only.
I just had a new roof put on. Different contractor did seem less gutters. On the long runs I have a lot of water dripping between the back of the gutter down the fascia. My question is who do I raise hell with? The roofer or the gutter guy? There are a few areas where I can see light in the crack. Seems like the gutter should be more flush against the house but I don't know if that's possible & maybe they did the best they could?
Did you find out who was responsible? I am having a similar issue
Anyword
I am a private homeowner and I just had a new roof put on and then I decided to add gutters myself so I would only have the roofer or myself to blame, but you have to look at the job done by both. In my instance I have worked by back side off to put these gutters on correctly and I am pretty much a perfectionist. You may need to ask a 3rd party to look at what has happened and see if the roofing has enough overhang to allow the water to drip off into the gutter or is it too short. I believe you should have 3/4" to 1" overhang. How tight is the drip edge? I thought, but may be wrong that roofers were suppose to leave a 1/2 inch gap between the drip edge and fascia board. My roofer failed to do that, and the drip edge is not long enough to cover the fascia board nor allow water to drip into the gutter. This being the case I am now finding myself having to purchase more drip edge that I can slip under the existing new drip edge and lap over into my gutters.
My feeling is that my roofer messed up, however I put the gutters on myself. I have had to rip off fascia board from my storage building and replace it and I never want to do it again, however that is because I was doing it myself, just like the gutters, therefore I am choosing to purchase more drip edge and slide it under the existing drip edge and lapping it over into the gutters to make sure I have no rain dripping behind my gutters and rotting my fascia board.
Since you didn't do the work I might call the gutter man and ask him to come back out and take a look at what is happening and ask if there is a way he could make the necessary corrections. If he feels it was the roofers bad work he will tell you and ask him to explain to you what the problem is. There are many possible reasons as to why this has happened and I can understand you being angry, but listen to the gutter man first, then ask what he can do to correct the issue.
Really helpful, thank you
Thanks man
Oh? Do you think this could explain why I have a leak in the ceiling corner upstairs, but my attic is completely dry? Roofers can't locate the problem.
Question: I'm about to get a new roof and saw that my neighbor had silicone caulking at the bottom edge of the gable apron all along it's length. Why would a roofer do that as does it need to be sealed at the bottom or not sealed? Also, if you have gutters and there is more than a 2" drop on the length.... do you need a edge that is 2" along the first part, and then an edge that is wider for when there is more than a 2" drop on the 16" lenghth? Thanks, and hope you are still answering your comments.
I'm no gutter guy, but as a hobbyist handyman, having caulking or a seal at the bottom of trim is a great way to trap water and rot stuff out. Water needs a pathway to drain if it gets behind stuff.
I am a novice, not a professional by any means, I too have had the same issue and in my humble opinion I am adding a wider drip edge. I feel it is necessary if you do not want additional problems down the road.
Thank you
Thanks for the info. I think I'm having issue with leaking around anger screw.any solution would be apreciated.
I suggest anger management.
Its always because they didnt make the shingle overhang enough. Drip edge is to stop the shingles from curling to the facia board.
Would putting a strip of flashing tape under the drip edge and over the backside of the gutter work?
yes!
problem with that extra flashing is its hard to get your hand into the gutter to clean them out in the fall
Thanks for your video
I'm surprised I've never seen a drip edge system that's made to be compatible with a specific gutter system.
Awesome - Many tks
Josh should you ever have to drill into a drip edge when seamless gutters are installed?
always
thanks
Thanks! That Z drip edge is what I need to do!
Glad we could help!!
good stuff!
Looking forward to the new videos! Do you guys have any videos on box gutter?
Thank you! We have this video showing our machine setup ua-cam.com/video/BMjXxZ1JZlI/v-deo.html We also have this video where we install one! ua-cam.com/video/Mr-Bflv9t58/v-deo.html
On my home I shimmed all the gutters half an inch off the home. So clogs and water drip down and dont cause damage. neighbor had her new gutters tight to soffit and it rotted. in 6 years. Just sayin if gutters overflow and they do water behind gutters will rot.
tHANKS!!!
Cool video. question, do you ever screw through the drip edge when you install gutter such as hidden brackets or hangers?
We try not to. Sometimes its unavoidable
the more hole you create, you increase hole wire water can go in. best thing to do is to install the gutter underneath the drip edge. For me, I try to extend the drip with my hand to get a distance from the facia so the water cannot go behind the gutter
How do you make the Z shaped flashing?