NEXT LEVEL Water Bases: my Kruleboyz' Swamp Bases
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- Опубліковано 20 жов 2024
- I always had a problem with classic water themed bases where water floats in a bubble above ground, so I found a cool, alternative solution! You can find the REAL TIME footage of my videos on my Patreon! ► / notjustmecha
There has been some confusion (I accidentally uploaded the wrong files) and a little misunderstanding about the bases; full credit to SinNerds for their much better product.
www.myminifact...
The products I used for my bases:
Magnetic Foil - 32mm
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Wet Ground
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Muddy Ground
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Rough Terrain
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Resin
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#Warhammer #Dominion #Kruleboyz
when you have a bunch of them together it truly looks like they're in a segmented swamp it's awesome!!
Both this swamp effect and the tamiya clear green advice you gave in the lizardmen tutorial are just the best!! btw best "hello guys!" ever:D love your bright energy!
It's easy to add too much paints to your resin pours. To prevent this get a cup of water with the same amount as your resin pour and count the amount of drops you add until you get the right consistency. This way you know how much to add to your pour. Alternatively you can do what Marco did and add just a little bit of paint at the time until you reach the consistency you where after.
hi Wijkert. sorry to bother you but i had a bit of trouble with Marco's accent and was just wondering, you mention adding water to the resin pour, is that what Marco is doing when he's doing the water? and i don't understand about adding paint to the pour. is this to color it? i'm only just starting out with water effects and any feedback would be great. thanks :)
@@camjoseph7732 No worries, happy to help. Definitely don't add water to you pour. My tip has to do with using a separate cup of water with the same amount (ml) you are planning to use for your pour and adding paint/ink etc. to the water to figure out the amount of paint you need to get the right color and consistency you are looking for. This way it's less likely you add too much or too little.
Liking before watching, as always with Marco - not only because I've become a die-hard fanboy, but because I know it's gonna be amazing :O
So so so so good. This is why you deserve alot of patreons.
😍😁😍😘
Absolutely amazing work! It fits the Orruk swamp theme better than anything else I’ve seen.
Hey Marco! Love your enthusiasm and presentation style! You are one of the most informative and accessible content creators! I've learned a fair amount from your videos. You make what might seem out of my abilities possible due to your down to earth and friendly style. Thank you for all your content, great job!
That's some amazing sheet, Marco!
Dude you are so fucking awesome.
I've been painting Kruleboyz for a while now and your videos always help like crazy.
Sick bases, they look stunning and alive.
Grazie mile zio !
Literally perfect timing
I am printing the Alien Hives line from OnePageRules and wanted a slimy digestive pool for their bases
OnePageRules has some amazing sculpts I also was just looking at their Alien Hives.
So many cool products to try out after watching this! Thanks Marco!
Thanks Marco. Hope to see others videos of your kruleboyz 😉
Can't wait to see you paint the Killaboss on Gnashtoof, keep up you amazing work 👍👍👍
I bought your bases and printed them all, just received my Dominion box today, it is on! Thanks a lot!
Perfect use for hollow bases. These look fantastic!
Amazing tutorial, and great looking finish! I'll be stealing some of those tips when I come to buying myself some big swamp-beasts!
This was wildly insightful as a commission painter, thank you for sharing your wisdom!
Great inspiration very timely for my new box 🙂
What a great idea, and so well executed!
Very beautiful bases and minis
Like? I don't like your videos Marco, I love them. Almost every one goes into a reference playlist where I'll rewatch it over and over when practicing a technique. Thanks for all you do friend.
I could listen and watch your videos all day. My mibd is racing with possible ideas. Thanks
Really like to see that you giving the bases more love! I feel that even in speed painted projects, it adds so much if you put that little extra effort in.
your the best Marco, i always love learning from you
Love the way you try to make something and then find out it has already been made. That was so funny! Google is your friend and can save you a lot of time. Great video overall.
Hard to wait, but having Marco in the chat whilst it's running for the first time is absolutely worth the waiting.
Incredible work, as always, you make it look like it is so simple! Great, great job!
Brilliant video as always, thank you for the content
Grazie mille. Looking forward to the Hobgrot Skin tutorial :-) Can't wait to see if and how you applied oils there.
I don't play or collect AOS but these bases make me want to start a Kruleboyz army!
Not get familiar with acrylic painting even close to the appropriate level, now Marco convince me in oil magic.
Fantastic as always
Video spettacolare , super interessante !! Complimenti 💪... Credo che seguirò i tuoi consigli per i miei kruleboyz
11:40 TYI the specific 2-part resin that Marco used here can be mixed with water based acrylic paints no worries. I have mainly used inks and had not trouble at all. Haven't heard anyone else have trouble mixing water acrylics as well. Mentioning it so people that don't own oils can still use it without worrying about the result.
Awesome! The instructions on the box talk only about enamels and oils so I never dared to question them lol
Have you tried liquitex prof. Inks? Going to give it a test try tonight/tomorrow. As well as with some AP/GW/Vallejo paints
@@IPHbS the specific pigment should not have in impact on the result. Am curious as to why you want to make the resin white. Cloudy ice maybe?
@@Wijkert I never said its going to be white :) what made you think so, dude?)))
@@IPHbS my bad. I read "Liquitex titanium white". But to answer your question, I am pretty confident that the brand of paint doesn't matter. Inks are naturally more transparant than regular acrylic paint, so they should work a little better if you are looking for transparancy.
Havent touched a warhammer in 20 years, but i really love these videos.
Spectacular job👍👍
fantastico non credo di aver ancora visto un italiano fare questo format....grazie
amazing man i use magic resin over here in canada works amazingly
Want it right now !!!
I've sunk so deep into this tutorial I will have to do somme swampy bases one day or another.
Great video
Good idea looks good.
fico, just what I needed right now 4 basing my kruleboyz!! u know what tho? You can just turn GW bases upside down and u have ur empty bases ready 2 go without 3d printing.. doing it now and it works great.
Merci beaucoup! Tu es juste incroyable! 💪
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
luckily I've been making my own Water Bases for 12yrs, so I have a plentiful supply. Now with the move to 3D, also much easier to create different sizes
Very interesting, thank you for the video!!!
3:52 lmao thanks for that dude
That was sick
Really inspiring stuff! If my models look half as good as this I will have done well :)
Really cool
Yet another fantastic video. Had an idea to paint, in the bottom of the base, the same colour that would be directly above from the miniature before adding the resin. Would this simulate reflection in the swamp water? Theres the next challenge Marco: painting reflections in the water.
Thanks!!! You read my mind 😜 I arrived to the conclusion that it can be done layering the colours of the reflections between layers of resin poured in multiple stages... Still working on it 😁
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM great minds and all that! I think the glint of the red shields in the water would be particularly amazing!
So good.
Fantastico video, ottima fonte di idee! Consiglieresti più la bicomponente epossidica oppure la UV?
Tra l'altro sono mesi che uso le tue basette (ENORME lifesafer, le adoro) e scopro solo ora i tuoi video 😂
Grazie mille!!! 😁😊😁 Dipende tutto dalla quantità: per molte basi o medi/grossi volumi o spessori la bicomponente funziona meglio e costa meno. Per piccole cose o dove la pittura dá l'illusione della profondità anche resine acriliche che asciugano all'aria vanno benone (Vallejo ad esempio ne ha una per fare le pozzanghere)!
Hi Marco, thanks a lot for the incredible quality content you post! I was wondering what kind of dremel you use? I looks really small and handy.
Thanks to you!!! It's a Proxxon, Micromot 50/E
I can't find hollow 105mm base for killaboss. Any links where to look?
Thanks for covering the microwave Marco!
Be sure to use the classic oven 😉!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM but I only have a microwave >.
Great video! Where do you get those large bark chips? I've been trying to find some but they're all very small.
Hey Marco ! Thank you for your amazing content !
I currently have acrylic still water but I'm thinking of buying some 2 in 1 resin so your video dropped bang on time :D
According to you, what would be the advantage of 2 in 1 resin over acrylic still water? (if you already tested it?)
Thanks a million to you 😊 Still water is a slow drying product that has to be used in thin layers, so it works well only if you need to fill small volumes like little puddles on a base for example; for every other situation go with a 2 components product!
I’d highly recommend the resin hollow bases from Dragonforge, they have many more sizes than GSW currently does.
Lovely work, as usual. Marco-what are those first two unpainted figures that you show when talking about lipped bases?
Thanks! They are Death Marshalls from Malifaux 😊
Sei un grande! Ti copio questa :)
How do you deal with the raised edges that you get when using resin?
The trick is to fill the base/armature of the pour until the very edge (the resin should be slightly higher then the border!) so when it dries losing that bit of volume it tends to become flat. Another trick is to simply add a thin new layer on top to smooth out and level the edges!
I have a question: Are you sealed the base painted before adding the wet mud and the water or after. Thank you good video.
When you are gluing the bark chips down what was the clear liquid you hit them with? Was that thinner super glue or another hardener?
some more words of wisdom and knowledge from the good book of Marco
spectacular mate, question though. Placing the tufts early obviously means you end up having to paint them. Do you just use the same as the Orc (or Orruk) skin? I would have thought it be a little easier to place them after you've painted but before the resin
I like to paint over the grass tufts to avoid what I like to call the "Who Framed Roger Rabbit effect" where model and base seem to come from different realities. They handle well paint and this way everything take the fake, painted "light" in the same way, has the same saturation, vibrancy and visual consistency. Painting the orcs I simply used their skin tones over base and vegetation pushing a bit more on the opacity
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM makes sense, I've never liked the really vegetative stuff next to painted. I saw recently a video by Saint Vincent with rocks, and same thing added a bit of paint onto the grass tufts, for the same reason I believe.
I shall have it noted though that "Who Framed Roger Rabbit" was a great movie.
Cheers Marco!
secret weapon miniatures makes this kind of bases, blanks and som with theme, like corps fields
top marco, come al solito ;)
What type of drill did you use for the pins? That’s nifty!
can i use some contrast paint with resin or oil is mandatory ?
Sweet, you used the same water resin I bought! I'll do some tests first of course, but have you ever had a problem with the resin re-activating pigments underneath? I want to oil wash some "underwater" ruins of a swampy necron tomb...
Hey Marco, how do you control the airbrush so well so that it only makes small puffs at a time? Whenever I try it I end up getting some paint into the nozzle (it looks like you push down AND pull back simultaneously, and then release the trigger in both directions simultaneously). Thanks!
Hi! The trick is to use an high pressure! I always work around 2.5/3 bar; the high pressure gives me a good flow, high precision of the cone of pressure and it prevents clogging because it pushes away the extra paint 😉
Hi Marco, great video. Question - are there more details videos on your Patreon of how you painted your Kruleboyz army as well as made the bases?
hello Marco. amazing work! sorry i just couldn't understand your accent when you mentioned which glue you use when pinning your models to your bases. can you please let me know? thanks again for such great videos. Cam
Marco, you make my day like Unicorns and puppies! Where is that "drill" from? That would save me so much time. Would you rather order Green Stuff sheets over making your own? Or is it a bit of time waste doing it yourself?
Thanks a million man! The drill is a Proxxon, super handy tool...
I ended up ordering the premade circles because the cost is basically the same of the single sheet and they cut a ton of work!
You should add it to your links, get bonus bucks!
Great bases! I hope someone from AK see it and offers a partnership or a channel sponsorship deal
great video and womderful results as always! just quick question, what is your take on ready made products such as GSW realistic water or vallejo still water compared to using 2 component resin?
Thanks a million! I can talk only for Vallejo's Still Water that I have in my collection but in general those products are good only for very thin applications and small puddles and take a bit to dry. UV resins have better performances for small and quick applications but for large volume I always prefer the uniform chemical reaction of the two components resin
Does the AK Water gel- Swamp green have the same result??
I am wondering what wire you used to pin the minis, it looked to cut nice and easy compare to my usual paper clips!
Oh yeah, working with paper clips is a nightmare! I use 1mm gardening wire from the hardware store (it should be aluminium)
Hi Marco,
As always a fantastic tutorial and supreme result! I love you videos.
Just an info, how the green stuff magnetic sheets perform with metal plates? I have a metal plate backpack and I wanted to understand if the grip of those sheets is good to carry around the miniatures (usually I use magnets)
Thank you!
In hindsight I wonder how these would look using the AK swamp goo vs the tinted resin you used.
I just opened a box of ork boyz. Can't I just turn the GW bases upside-down? The follow the process. It might make the bases a little tippy, but easier than cutting out the center or buying aftermarket bases. Am I missing something. Love the video, Marco.
Love the vids
Excellent Tutorial. I wish SK interactive stuff was available here in the states.
Nice!
also, Marco that drill you use to make the pin holes looks amazing. is it electric? where could I get one like that? thanks again :)
Hey Bud these look amazing :) Really like the new GW orks but damn GW are really gone nuts lately ha but thanks again for this sweet video :) I also just ordered my first printer I am super excited there are so many great minis to get. Il be doing this from now on myself much more cost effective even in the short term. I found one I think you would like yourself I think it would suit your painting style how he does things its called bestiarum miniatures. Just thought you might like it :)
Did your really prime and paint the grass tufts too? How’d they stand up to the punishment?
Yep! They handle well paint; I prefer to have them painted with the same vibrancy of the models to avoid what I call the "Who framed roger rabbit" effect XD
Love all your videos Marco! Hope you don't mind my asking a question unrelated to this video. I'm looking to find an alternative to Molotow paints for the base layers to go under metallic paints like you show in some of your other videos. I can't find Molotow where I am, would GW base paints be okay instead or maybe something from Vallejo?
Either way thanks for all your helpful videos!
Thanks man! Don't worry too much about the specific paints, everything is interchangeable; I use Molotow mostly because they are good to go straight from from the bottle.
Also, Montana has now a similar line of paints!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM thanks dude! Really appreciate your advice. I've just joined your Patreon so now I can watch more of your real time videos!
Does anyone know what grass tufts Marco used for this tutorial? I'm having a search around and struggling find ones with the same sort of height and diameter, a lot of the product pictures arent really helpful in that regard :(
Hi! They come from Gamer Grass; "Dry green 6mm" 😉
Thank you Messiah Marco 🙏🏻
Hey Marco what is the clear textured paint that you use for your other bases? Thanks.
It's AK Interactive Rough Terrain!
Don't worry seen you used it in the video :D
@@dylancaygill8407 yeah the orcs were the mk1 where I used only rough terrain for everything but wet group sells better the look of the underwater ground!
Excuse me Mr Frisoni sir. What are those few lamps you use? With the long necks that you can bend into shapes?
They are a custom build 😊 Here you can find all the details! ua-cam.com/video/yAiB15yWiLw/v-deo.html
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM oh nice one! Cheers my dude!
comment is probably gonna get buried but what kind of tree are those bark chips from? I'm trying to find an equivalent in Germany but I'm lost on what kind to look for.
Hej marco! Do you print your bases flat or do you angel it an do Supports? Greats from austria
Hi! I run them flat on the filament printer and with supports on the resin printer. For this project I decided to use the filament printer mostly because I'm still learning how to use it and the bases are an easy project with low stakes 😉
Thx :)
I'm thinking about basing the Cursed City undead this way. What should I do with skeletons? I don't see how you'd pin them.
mmmmm good point...skeletons can be really complicated to pin...
Depending on the sculpt you may be able to use a drill bit smaller than 1mm, and if the model comes on a tab for attaching to the base I keep enough of that to act as a pin.
If neither of those works then rough up the underside of the foot, push it into a layer of greenstuff and superglue, then pray to the dice gods.
If it breaks then try simply glueing it back down, I often find that things only break once. My theory is that the second time the glue from the first attempt fills the gap and creates a better join.
What hobby drill do you use or would you recommend? I've heard people say some are too powerful and will melt plastic among other things.
Yeah, it can easily happen with drills not made for modelling; you can cool the drill bit in water but a lower power or a better control of power is really useful for small and fine works. I have a Dremel that I never use for this reason and a Proxxon that's absolutely amazing and always on my table!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Thanks, you are as always, awesome.
Amazing Marco! Do you have any interest in Warmachine or Hordes? (both painting and playing)
Thanks!!! For me Warmachine is THE game 😍 I have a huge Khador collection, so large that I had to leave it in Italy when I moved to Ireland 😥. Definitely the most balanced, clear and tactical ruleset for large battles out there!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM I 100% agree! I have a massive khador collection too (definitely the best faction). I'd love to have a game sometime! Would you paint any one the channel? I know the video probably wouldn't do as well because WM isn't as popular sadly.
I saw an article today about chipping and weather with MARMITE. Gotta be worth a shot, right?!
LOL, I need the link!!!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM "Bartsharp Airbrush Marmite Chipping" - The Great Tube doesn't like links
the volume of the sound is always a bit to low in your videos. could you maybe increase it when you edit. thanks for awsome videos :)
Please why did you glue the tuffs before the texture pastes?
So I can integrate them better with the ground, like real vegetation emerging from below, not only sitting on top :)
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Also did you later sprayed a top of them with airbrush? I never considered that we could actually put paint a top of vegetation :D
@@zilavymarek yep! They handle well paint and with a bit of paint you avoid what I like to call the "Who Framed Roger Rabbit" effect were the base doesn't match the vibrancy and tones of the model!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM thank you very much for further inspiration!