We are lucky that gloss varnish has almost the same refraction properties as resin. It's almost magical how it turns cloudy resin surfaces back to almost perfect clarity !
Good solid tips Vince! UV resin is also good for casting bits. Also saw a video making icicles by molding twisted tinfoil that was shaped to size. And nice job on the figure and the base. Your water effect gives a nice further expression of her pose.
I agree with all your Tips, especially Tip #4 (let it cure), I always have a couple of figures I’m working on simultaneously so that I give each one their proper curing time and so that I don’t impatiently start fussing with any one figure before it’s ready.
Tip #9. Properly seal the groundwork that is going to take the resin. Even surfaces that look solid can be porous on a microscopical level, causing the water effect to seep dow into the base and possibly also reacting with it, distorting the color.
Super helpful insights as always. Lately your channel is the no. 1 resource for me if I get stuck at a technical detail that I want to get right and am not sure how to approach it. I've used the faces tutorial yesterday and even though it's a simple thing it really helps me get confidence when I can see you do it right and talk through the steps. I really appreciate the practical approach in your videos, while I also enjoy content from other creators your videos are pure gold when I need a professional help in a project. I think I just want to say thank you mate, all the best :)
Thank you! That's exactly why I am here - I watch lots of other hobby youtubers as well and love them all, its great that everyone can have their own voice and goals and help and entertain in different ways. :)
Another way to deal with shrinkage/creep in many natural still water environments if you don't want to resort to so many multiple pours to get it perfectly flat is to add debris, foam and/or foliage around the water's edge - doesn't take much to hide a small lip and if you look at real natural still water environments you'll notice in a lot of cases that's a pretty realistic addition anyways, especially if your base setting is a wetland or forest. Also for surface bubble removal a very quick careful pass with the very tip with the narrowest flame from a butane torch is great, works instantly plus you get to use your blowtorch...
Since you titled this "Water Effects" rather than "Poured Water Effects" or something similar, I have a couple more techniques that you didn't really mentions: You can use a piece of plexiglas (or similar clear plastic sheeting) for the surface and still model the underwater details. It can be useful to use another water effect to get a surface texture (as you mention at the end of this video). This doesn't risk damaging anything that would be in the underwater part of the scene. It won't work with every piece you work on, but when it does work, it can be extremely effective. For an example, see Boomer Diorama's Silver Creek box diorama series elsewhere on UA-cam. In some cases, you can use paint to get a depth effect and use a very thin gloss layer to get the look of water. I like to use acrylic mediums for this (fluid medium for the base effect and gel medium for any surface textures). I've found this particularly useful for water feature scatter terrain for gaming. It's pretty straightforward to make a nice modular river, for instance. Finally, for UV resin, I just use clear printer resin. It's the same stuff at a _much_ lower price per volume and it's available in a variety of colors.
Great video. My only complaint would be that I would have liked to see samples of all tips. The plastic barrier always worries me. One of the reasons I hesitate on 2 part resins.
Fantastic video, thanks, Vince. I'm just finishing up a Forest Spirit mini, and he's stood in a swamp/pond, I'm gonna finish it with a thin layer of UV resin that I just picked up 😁 I also bought the Scale 75 Inktensity set, as you've recommended them often, especially our favourite name: Inktense Wood. I have to say, they are life-changing 😅 Not as life-changing as Vallejo Metal Colour, but close! You did a go-to paint video three and a half years ago, and it has been so helpful. I'd love to know if there's any additions you'd add to that list since Jan 2020, as there is such a large range of paints and auxiliary products to wade through!
Amazing! Just as i wanted to try things like these out! I´d be super interrested in deeper water effekts or as one mentiond here "launching body out of a deeper water" or some liek that. That could be a nice fallowup! Anyway have to Thank again Vince, you are an amazing tutor!
Benevolent teacher, you missed the best secret: Modge Podge! Its fantastic for that very last step and very cheap. Thanks you as always Vince, you are incredible and a delight!
Vince, your videos are great as always. Would it be within the realm of possibility for you to do a video about decision paralysis with regards to paint/army schemes as well as perpetually hunting for the perfect paint color. I am of the mindset that as long as you are actively looking, you can find better ways to do something. But at some point you gotta start tackling what you set out to do, and commit.
I have a previous video on that actually, - ua-cam.com/video/X0XZFnYLzlU/v-deo.html&pp=gAQBiAQB But its something that I will certainly touch on again.
Nice overview on water effects. There are other tricks to get rid of the air bubbles especially the two part resins for larger dioramas; just blow some air from your mouth on the top surface or use a kitchen blowtorch to heat gently the surface.
This is great, used the vellejo still water for a pour of an oasis and yeah ended up doing like a dozen 1mm layers, first try cracked and shrunk so poured to fill cracks then did as I said like a dozen 1mm or less pours, just a bunch of drops and smoothed it out with a popsicle stick and light shaking.
Great video Vince as usual, brilliant tips as resin has been on my mind , im just trying the crackle stuff on my bases yet to get the hang, hopefully you'll show how its done correctly. I do have a bottle of AK water effects in my collection yet to use.
Some additional tips: - Test the amount of (transparant) paint you need, by adding paint to the same amount of ml of water (as your pour), until you are happy. Then add that amount of paint to your pour. - You can use heat (of a flame) to remove bubbles from your pour. Basically like the last step of making crème brûlée. - When a pour is drying, place something over it, so you don't get dust stuck into your water effect.
I love how you production quality has gone up in the last couple of years! One thing that stands out is the white noise that is in the background of your talking head segments. I suspect this is because you have to turn up the gain, to compensate for you being to far away from your microphone. Could you place it closer to you or maybe invest in a clip on mic?
When you're working with 2-part epoxy resins, keep the excess that hasn't gone on the piece. If you want to know whether your resin is cured, just push your thumbnail into that and see if it leaves a dent. When you've mixed A and B, it's good practice to pour it into another container and mix further, since often you'll have some unmixed stuff on the walls of your container which will end up in your work and ruin it. Also be aware that epoxy resin fumes are a sensitization hazard - take precautions to limit your exposure to the stuff, at the very least by working in a well-ventilated area.
Resin has what is called a pot (working) time, a gel (thickening) time, and a curing (hardening) time. If you are pouring multiple layers, then you want to pour the new layer during the gel phase. So once it's thickened up but before it's completely hard. This allows the layers to merge, and be invisible. If you wait until well into the hardening phase, you may get a visible layer line. When is the gel phase? That depends on product and even brand. Some are quick setting and some are deliberately slow setting. Some will explicitly tell you, others wont. The majority will tell you the pot or working time. As a rule of thumb the gel time starts shortly after that, within a few minutes, and lasts about as long as the pot time. Probably the most reliable way to tell is to mix a little more than you need. So you can keep some back, and treat this the same as the base pour. Same temperature, humidity, UV exposure ect. Rather than disturb your base you can check the portion that you have kept back. The gel phase will be noticeably thicker but still just about workable, but only just. Be warned, 2 part epoxy resin can get warm as it cures. Deeper pours can get hot, but you have to be talking an inch or more before that becomes problematic.
Yep, that base type makes it tough, you can sort of loop a bunch of blue stuff around it (I did it in a VERY early HC video, like #6 or something), that's the best method i've found for the beveled base.
Very very useful. Question; GW's bases have an angle at the edges that I can't for the life of me figure out how to deal with. Is there anyway to make a good seal on those bases?
It's tough, way back in Hobby Cheating 6, you can see how I do it, I just wrap it around with blue tack. There is no great answer for those beveled bases.
Thanks for the tips - just wondering how you would seal in a pour on just a standard 40k base? I wanted to add some toxic sludge and puddles that would extend to the edge of some of my miniatures.
I'm going to do a whole video on this, as there are many ways to do this sort of thing. You can use the clear plastic pieces from a clamshell then build water effects around them is one direct way.
I think you mean, the kind of stick you would use to shish a kebab. I'm pretty sure the şiş is the skewer, the kebap is the meat. Not that I speak the language, perhaps someone who does will want to correct me. (Honestly I enjoy it when you motivate me to look weird things up, even if they are not specifically painting related! And thanks for this video, how do you keep coming up with topics that interest me? I don't think it's merely that you do _absolutely everything,_ thought there is certainly an element of that!)
All I know is I learned Shish Kabob when I was like 5 years old and my friend Adam and I (who were in McDonalds at the time) found it to be the funniest things we had yet heard in our lives). This was a formative memory for me.
@@VinceVenturella It's a great word, isn't it? I realised how it decomposed when I encountered Adana kebap. Speaking of which, can you cook on a power sword, do you know?
How do you find using washes ect that have some sort of flow improver in them for tinting the water as opposed to inks? Some people have said that it can make the single part products shrink more or set funny, but I figure if you use contrast paints it can’t be that bad?
This is really interesting, thank you! Do you have experiences with/a take on non-resin based water effects - mud effects or things like the water gels by AK?
I do, most of the time, I find it's better to just go to gloss gel medium or something similar. That being said, I am going to do a whole video on water effects in the future.
@@VinceVenturella Just thinking out loud (only works for the 2 part resin), have you ever tried mixing ink into 1 of the 2 parts of the resin? Then only mix what you need for the first pour. When it comes time to mix the resin for the 2nd/3rd/etc pour, it should have the same ratio of ink since the ratio of the two parts is the same
Got a question regarding something you didn't mention... I've tried making a swamp base using Vallejo Still Water. The tufts I had put down at the edge of the puddle ended up sucking up a lot of the Still Water via capillary action, which kind of ruins the effect. Any tips for using water effects alongside tufts like this?
So anything that is right on the edge will naturally draw it up, there isn't too much you can really do about that if they're placed. So here is the two options I go with. 1) Don't put them right on the edges like that. (pedantic answer of course) and 2) Leave them off the edge at first, then pour and let it mostly set. When it's harded some but not completely, you can carefully place the tuft down into the already tackier resin, it won't go as far then and it will minimize the effect.
Question in regards to containment. Have you tried Green Stuff Worlds Containment Moulds, and what do you think of them. Also i saw in another video by the youtuber called Paepercuts, that if you want to make batches ala lets say you want your entire army to be water based. You can use a silicon chocolate or muffin tray put the base in it and basically pour the resin in it. That video was 7 years old so i don´t know if its still a viable technique or if there are better alternatives now.
So those molds are tough (any molds are), the trick is they absolutely won't work with GW bases, because those are beveled bases, so it leaks immediately, if you're using a flush base, you can use a mold or something similar. The base type is really the key.
Hi Vince, can I ask you something? What is your "recipe for success", you would recommend to others, to manage all the things you do and avoid to burn out. I mean familiy (friends), everyday life, work, hobby and in your case UA-cam. How you manage all that? Do you have a kind of time management? Kind regards MarkL
Don't forget writing games. ;) - The answer is I am lucky, I have a lot of spoons (a reference to your tolerance for how much you can do in a day without feeling mental fatigue). For me, the answer is very structured living, I have subtracted out most choices. Clothes, food, drink, I tend to do the same thing, every day and reduce my number of choices, I have a very set schedule of when I work on everything and I stick to it as much as possible, it helps me keep everything in balance. That being said, my methods won't work for everyone. My best advice, and i've talked about this in a few videos, is to experiement and see what ways work best for you. I favor a very rigid organization and structure of my days, but someone else might favor simply following the muse, giving themselves to the thing they feel most like doing at that moment and always using their passion to their best advantage. Each person will be different.
I ll be honest, I have the vallejo water product and I m a little confused on making it work with the model! Is there a process that is different with this product vs the realistic water I have seen you use in other videos
Hi Vince! For those of us who don't live in the US, what is this thing you call "blue painter's tape"? I'm used to masking tape that is typically ivory and not entirely smooth outside, but I assume that's different? Have a great day and make sure you take your sun screen when you got to the water effects this summer! 🙂
I work in a hardware store so lemme help. "Blue painters tape" is just Scotts branded painters tape. Painters tape in general is a type of masking tape with a different adhesive-so it doesnt damage your walls when you remove it. Any product that calls itself "painters tape" will work. For example, the "Frog Tape" brand of painters tape is actually green.
@@jacksummers6464 Thank you for the explanation, I've been putting off my first resin pour because trying to get the round base dammed off has been a nightmare, and I was worried that if I actually put tape on there it wouldn't come off cleanly.
@@jacksummers6464 @VinceVenturella thanks again for the explanation, I bit the bullet and taped the base, mixed some ink into my resin, poured, and it came out great. Only minor leakage due to a piece of the mini jutting out across the side of the base, but I had taped it underneath the rim so the extra tape caught it.
@@VinceVenturella Hey, I am a car modeler, and I started watching your channel to learn the proper way to paint figures because we car builders suck at it. I'm not afraid to look outside my interests to learn.
It's the same basic type of chemical. But, one thing that you'll likely run into is that if you use printer resin you will not get a dry, hard surface. Normally this type of resin will have what's called an "oxygen inhibition layer" on the surface. What that means is that if oxygen is present you will not be able to fully cure the very last bit of the surface, it will always remain tacky. The resins that are made for jewellery as mentioned in this video have been formulated to get around this problem and will usually have a nice dry hard surface when cured fully. I don't remember how exactly that is achieved though (it's been a few years since I read up on it and I barely remember what I did yesterday). Sometimes blasting the crap out of the resin with a very powerful UV source can mitigate some of the stickiness but I don't think it will ever remove the effect completely. Curing that type of resin while submerged, thus blocking oxygen from touching it, will work. So you'd cure it, then submerge it and cure it again. Not always practical but it can work in some situations. Or if you happen to have access to a chamber with inert gas, that'll work too. And the last option is to clean the surface with IPA which is the traditional way you'd clean a model from a printer before curing it. Risky if you have a painted surface nearby though.
Does UV resin take mica powder to do the whole crazy swirl effect? I've only seen it used with 2 part pour... Search 3d printed guitar epoxy to see what im talking about if you are unfamiliar :) - thanks in advance!
Vince This is unrelated but I was wondering: have you done a video on how we paint a shape on a rippling surface! I've looked at many photos but I can't see an equation to game it. Do you have ideas on this? It seems so random depending how the shapes..shape..do you have a hack?
@@VinceVenturella thanks Vince. Specifically I have a banner. This banner has folds in it. I want to freehand a symbol on it but if I paint it like it's flat I assume it won't look right. Maybe I'm overthinking it? I've looked a photos of flags but I don't see a pattern. Just that the more extreme the ripple the more curved the straight line becomes. I thought you might have covered this at some point.
i really wanna see all these videos, but i see that "HC 407" and feel like i'm trying to start one piece lol. i like that proacryl royal purple enough that i'll do it eventually. ballparking the math (20min x 407eps) is almost 135 hr of learning i have to do
THink of it more like walking intoa library, there are more books than you would read in a lifetime, but that isn't the point of course, it's to find the one book you need. :)
We are lucky that gloss varnish has almost the same refraction properties as resin. It's almost magical how it turns cloudy resin surfaces back to almost perfect clarity !
Good solid tips Vince! UV resin is also good for casting bits. Also saw a video making icicles by molding twisted tinfoil that was shaped to size. And nice job on the figure and the base. Your water effect gives a nice further expression of her pose.
I agree with all your Tips, especially Tip #4 (let it cure), I always have a couple of figures I’m working on simultaneously so that I give each one their proper curing time and so that I don’t impatiently start fussing with any one figure before it’s ready.
Tip #9. Properly seal the groundwork that is going to take the resin. Even surfaces that look solid can be porous on a microscopical level, causing the water effect to seep dow into the base and possibly also reacting with it, distorting the color.
Super helpful insights as always. Lately your channel is the no. 1 resource for me if I get stuck at a technical detail that I want to get right and am not sure how to approach it. I've used the faces tutorial yesterday and even though it's a simple thing it really helps me get confidence when I can see you do it right and talk through the steps. I really appreciate the practical approach in your videos, while I also enjoy content from other creators your videos are pure gold when I need a professional help in a project.
I think I just want to say thank you mate, all the best :)
Thank you! That's exactly why I am here - I watch lots of other hobby youtubers as well and love them all, its great that everyone can have their own voice and goals and help and entertain in different ways. :)
Another way to deal with shrinkage/creep in many natural still water environments if you don't want to resort to so many multiple pours to get it perfectly flat is to add debris, foam and/or foliage around the water's edge - doesn't take much to hide a small lip and if you look at real natural still water environments you'll notice in a lot of cases that's a pretty realistic addition anyways, especially if your base setting is a wetland or forest.
Also for surface bubble removal a very quick careful pass with the very tip with the narrowest flame from a butane torch is great, works instantly plus you get to use your blowtorch...
Since you titled this "Water Effects" rather than "Poured Water Effects" or something similar, I have a couple more techniques that you didn't really mentions:
You can use a piece of plexiglas (or similar clear plastic sheeting) for the surface and still model the underwater details. It can be useful to use another water effect to get a surface texture (as you mention at the end of this video). This doesn't risk damaging anything that would be in the underwater part of the scene. It won't work with every piece you work on, but when it does work, it can be extremely effective. For an example, see Boomer Diorama's Silver Creek box diorama series elsewhere on UA-cam.
In some cases, you can use paint to get a depth effect and use a very thin gloss layer to get the look of water. I like to use acrylic mediums for this (fluid medium for the base effect and gel medium for any surface textures). I've found this particularly useful for water feature scatter terrain for gaming. It's pretty straightforward to make a nice modular river, for instance.
Finally, for UV resin, I just use clear printer resin. It's the same stuff at a _much_ lower price per volume and it's available in a variety of colors.
Your videos have been an absolute treasure trove for someone getting back into the hobby. Thank you!
Glad to hear it!
Great video. My only complaint would be that I would have liked to see samples of all tips. The plastic barrier always worries me. One of the reasons I hesitate on 2 part resins.
Thanks Vince for upping the compression or whatever you did. Your voice overs are nicely strong now. :) And as always, thanks for the video.
Super pleased to learn from the Paintfather! Awesome breakdown and tips as always! 😊
Awesome timing. I'll have my first water effects on a Day Of The Tentacle diorama soon.
Thanks Vince informative clear concise
Thank you Vince, this was so helpful, you are the perfect teacher!! Thank you for all that u give us!!
Thank you for the tips Vince! I'm gonna have to give resin a shot and this was a great help.
This is great. Just what I need for my IDK bases.
30 years ago I worked at a medical device factory. We used uv resin to bond polycarbonate. I suspect this could be used to gap fill resin figures.
This couldn't have been any better timed! I have to do my first uv resin base next week.
You can do it!
Good video. You covered everything I've figured out, and a few more things.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Vince!
Thanks Vince, your awesome. 🎉
Fantastic video, thanks, Vince. I'm just finishing up a Forest Spirit mini, and he's stood in a swamp/pond, I'm gonna finish it with a thin layer of UV resin that I just picked up 😁 I also bought the Scale 75 Inktensity set, as you've recommended them often, especially our favourite name: Inktense Wood. I have to say, they are life-changing 😅 Not as life-changing as Vallejo Metal Colour, but close!
You did a go-to paint video three and a half years ago, and it has been so helpful. I'd love to know if there's any additions you'd add to that list since Jan 2020, as there is such a large range of paints and auxiliary products to wade through!
Great video as always
If you have one of those little electric nail polish mixers, you can stick your base on it, vibrate it, and it should vibrate the bubbles up/out.
Oh goodness you have just made me think of all kinds of terrible new disasters I could have in my living room.
Thanks Vince, this is a topic that I really needed, good timing.
Glad it was helpful!
Amazing! Just as i wanted to try things like these out! I´d be super interrested in deeper water effekts or as one mentiond here "launching body out of a deeper water" or some liek that. That could be a nice fallowup! Anyway have to Thank again Vince, you are an amazing tutor!
Benevolent teacher, you missed the best secret: Modge Podge! Its fantastic for that very last step and very cheap. Thanks you as always Vince, you are incredible and a delight!
You're absolutely correct, mod podge is wonderful for water effects, I am going to deep dive in there in a future video.
Thank you so much for this video! I’m going to get some uv resin to make some blood pools for my butcher KDM model.
Have yet to attempt a water base - maybe this will be the push I need!
Vince, your videos are great as always.
Would it be within the realm of possibility for you to do a video about decision paralysis with regards to paint/army schemes as well as perpetually hunting for the perfect paint color. I am of the mindset that as long as you are actively looking, you can find better ways to do something. But at some point you gotta start tackling what you set out to do, and commit.
I have a previous video on that actually, - ua-cam.com/video/X0XZFnYLzlU/v-deo.html&pp=gAQBiAQB
But its something that I will certainly touch on again.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Nice overview on water effects. There are other tricks to get rid of the air bubbles especially the two part resins for larger dioramas; just blow some air from your mouth on the top surface or use a kitchen blowtorch to heat gently the surface.
This is great, used the vellejo still water for a pour of an oasis and yeah ended up doing like a dozen 1mm layers, first try cracked and shrunk so poured to fill cracks then did as I said like a dozen 1mm or less pours, just a bunch of drops and smoothed it out with a popsicle stick and light shaking.
Now let's learn
This was exactly what I’ve been looking for! God, hope you’ve not been looking at my search history?! 😂
Thanks man you rock
great video. thanks
Glad you liked it!
Great video Vince as usual, brilliant tips as resin has been on my mind , im just trying the crackle stuff on my bases yet to get the hang, hopefully you'll show how its done correctly. I do have a bottle of AK water effects in my collection yet to use.
Thanks 👍
Some additional tips:
- Test the amount of (transparant) paint you need, by adding paint to the same amount of ml of water (as your pour), until you are happy. Then add that amount of paint to your pour.
- You can use heat (of a flame) to remove bubbles from your pour. Basically like the last step of making crème brûlée.
- When a pour is drying, place something over it, so you don't get dust stuck into your water effect.
Not enough water puns, F-
I love how you production quality has gone up in the last couple of years! One thing that stands out is the white noise that is in the background of your talking head segments. I suspect this is because you have to turn up the gain, to compensate for you being to far away from your microphone. Could you place it closer to you or maybe invest in a clip on mic?
When you're working with 2-part epoxy resins, keep the excess that hasn't gone on the piece. If you want to know whether your resin is cured, just push your thumbnail into that and see if it leaves a dent. When you've mixed A and B, it's good practice to pour it into another container and mix further, since often you'll have some unmixed stuff on the walls of your container which will end up in your work and ruin it. Also be aware that epoxy resin fumes are a sensitization hazard - take precautions to limit your exposure to the stuff, at the very least by working in a well-ventilated area.
Danke
Thanks for the great video! When doing mulitple pour water effects how long do you wait between pours?
Resin has what is called a pot (working) time, a gel (thickening) time, and a curing (hardening) time.
If you are pouring multiple layers, then you want to pour the new layer during the gel phase. So once it's thickened up but before it's completely hard. This allows the layers to merge, and be invisible. If you wait until well into the hardening phase, you may get a visible layer line.
When is the gel phase? That depends on product and even brand. Some are quick setting and some are deliberately slow setting. Some will explicitly tell you, others wont. The majority will tell you the pot or working time. As a rule of thumb the gel time starts shortly after that, within a few minutes, and lasts about as long as the pot time.
Probably the most reliable way to tell is to mix a little more than you need. So you can keep some back, and treat this the same as the base pour. Same temperature, humidity, UV exposure ect. Rather than disturb your base you can check the portion that you have kept back. The gel phase will be noticeably thicker but still just about workable, but only just.
Be warned, 2 part epoxy resin can get warm as it cures. Deeper pours can get hot, but you have to be talking an inch or more before that becomes problematic.
Clear Elmer's glue worx also, and it's also glue.
Love this! Something I cannot do is seal a circular base with beveled edges (ie a circular gw base). Any tips on how to do that? Thanks!!
Yep, that base type makes it tough, you can sort of loop a bunch of blue stuff around it (I did it in a VERY early HC video, like #6 or something), that's the best method i've found for the beveled base.
@@VinceVenturella thanks! I'll find that video and try!
Very very useful. Question; GW's bases have an angle at the edges that I can't for the life of me figure out how to deal with. Is there anyway to make a good seal on those bases?
It's tough, way back in Hobby Cheating 6, you can see how I do it, I just wrap it around with blue tack. There is no great answer for those beveled bases.
Thanks for the tips - just wondering how you would seal in a pour on just a standard 40k base? I wanted to add some toxic sludge and puddles that would extend to the edge of some of my miniatures.
FOr small bases, I would use UV resin, it's much slower moving and easy to manipulate on bases.
What would you suggest using for large splashes of water? For example, if you have a model that is launching itself out of a deeper body of water.
I'm going to do a whole video on this, as there are many ways to do this sort of thing. You can use the clear plastic pieces from a clamshell then build water effects around them is one direct way.
I think you mean, the kind of stick you would use to shish a kebab. I'm pretty sure the şiş is the skewer, the kebap is the meat. Not that I speak the language, perhaps someone who does will want to correct me.
(Honestly I enjoy it when you motivate me to look weird things up, even if they are not specifically painting related! And thanks for this video, how do you keep coming up with topics that interest me? I don't think it's merely that you do _absolutely everything,_ thought there is certainly an element of that!)
All I know is I learned Shish Kabob when I was like 5 years old and my friend Adam and I (who were in McDonalds at the time) found it to be the funniest things we had yet heard in our lives). This was a formative memory for me.
@@VinceVenturella It's a great word, isn't it? I realised how it decomposed when I encountered Adana kebap. Speaking of which, can you cook on a power sword, do you know?
How do you find using washes ect that have some sort of flow improver in them for tinting the water as opposed to inks? Some people have said that it can make the single part products shrink more or set funny, but I figure if you use contrast paints it can’t be that bad?
Never had that much of an issue.
Great video, if i wanted to do a blood style pour, can i add blood for thr blood god to the resin, or is there something better you would suggest?
I've found a slight deep red tint to the pour, then a layer of blood for the blood god overtop.
@@VinceVenturella thank you!!
I assume that any spray/airbrush varnishing should occur before applying water effects?
You are correct.
This is really interesting, thank you! Do you have experiences with/a take on non-resin based water effects - mud effects or things like the water gels by AK?
I do, most of the time, I find it's better to just go to gloss gel medium or something similar. That being said, I am going to do a whole video on water effects in the future.
Thank you, looking forward to that one as well!
How do you ensure the second/third/etc resin pours have the exact same amount of ink?
You can measure in drops, but really , if its close you can't tell any difference.
@@VinceVenturella Just thinking out loud (only works for the 2 part resin), have you ever tried mixing ink into 1 of the 2 parts of the resin? Then only mix what you need for the first pour. When it comes time to mix the resin for the 2nd/3rd/etc pour, it should have the same ratio of ink since the ratio of the two parts is the same
Got a question regarding something you didn't mention... I've tried making a swamp base using Vallejo Still Water. The tufts I had put down at the edge of the puddle ended up sucking up a lot of the Still Water via capillary action, which kind of ruins the effect. Any tips for using water effects alongside tufts like this?
Literally had this happen to me this week. I had to rip the tufts out and put new ones in lol
So anything that is right on the edge will naturally draw it up, there isn't too much you can really do about that if they're placed. So here is the two options I go with. 1) Don't put them right on the edges like that. (pedantic answer of course) and 2) Leave them off the edge at first, then pour and let it mostly set. When it's harded some but not completely, you can carefully place the tuft down into the already tackier resin, it won't go as far then and it will minimize the effect.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks, I'll try that whenever I get round to painting my Rotmire Creed for Warcry!
Question in regards to containment.
Have you tried Green Stuff Worlds Containment Moulds, and what do you think of them.
Also i saw in another video by the youtuber called Paepercuts, that if you want to make batches ala lets say you want your entire army to be water based.
You can use a silicon chocolate or muffin tray put the base in it and basically pour the resin in it.
That video was 7 years old so i don´t know if its still a viable technique or if there are better alternatives now.
So those molds are tough (any molds are), the trick is they absolutely won't work with GW bases, because those are beveled bases, so it leaks immediately, if you're using a flush base, you can use a mold or something similar. The base type is really the key.
Is there a particular brand of UV resin you prefer?
The one you see me share in this video. :)
Hi Vince, can I ask you something?
What is your "recipe for success", you would recommend to others, to manage all the things you do and avoid to burn out.
I mean familiy (friends), everyday life, work, hobby and in your case UA-cam. How you manage all that? Do you have a kind of time management?
Kind regards MarkL
Don't forget writing games. ;) - The answer is I am lucky, I have a lot of spoons (a reference to your tolerance for how much you can do in a day without feeling mental fatigue). For me, the answer is very structured living, I have subtracted out most choices. Clothes, food, drink, I tend to do the same thing, every day and reduce my number of choices, I have a very set schedule of when I work on everything and I stick to it as much as possible, it helps me keep everything in balance. That being said, my methods won't work for everyone. My best advice, and i've talked about this in a few videos, is to experiement and see what ways work best for you. I favor a very rigid organization and structure of my days, but someone else might favor simply following the muse, giving themselves to the thing they feel most like doing at that moment and always using their passion to their best advantage. Each person will be different.
I ll be honest, I have the vallejo water product and I m a little confused on making it work with the model! Is there a process that is different with this product vs the realistic water I have seen you use in other videos
The vallejo water is a 1-part right? In that case, its usually just pour, pop the bubbles and it hardens.
❤
Hi Vince! For those of us who don't live in the US, what is this thing you call "blue painter's tape"? I'm used to masking tape that is typically ivory and not entirely smooth outside, but I assume that's different? Have a great day and make sure you take your sun screen when you got to the water effects this summer! 🙂
I work in a hardware store so lemme help.
"Blue painters tape" is just Scotts branded painters tape. Painters tape in general is a type of masking tape with a different adhesive-so it doesnt damage your walls when you remove it.
Any product that calls itself "painters tape" will work. For example, the "Frog Tape" brand of painters tape is actually green.
@@jacksummers6464 Thank you for the explanation, I've been putting off my first resin pour because trying to get the round base dammed off has been a nightmare, and I was worried that if I actually put tape on there it wouldn't come off cleanly.
Perfect explanation above. :)
@@jacksummers6464 Thank you!
@@jacksummers6464 @VinceVenturella thanks again for the explanation, I bit the bullet and taped the base, mixed some ink into my resin, poured, and it came out great. Only minor leakage due to a piece of the mini jutting out across the side of the base, but I had taped it underneath the rim so the extra tape caught it.
There are a lot of water affect videos in other genres of the model building hobby so dont be afraid to check out videos from other content creators.
Totally agreed, there are some real wizards with this stuff out there. :)
@@VinceVenturella Hey, I am a car modeler, and I started watching your channel to learn the proper way to paint figures because we car builders suck at it. I'm not afraid to look outside my interests to learn.
I have an issue with GSW uv resin…. No matter how long it is exposed to UV light it remains tacky. Any ideas where I’m going wrong
This can happen if the resin has seperated in the bottle.
Ive heard of gloss varnish being used over the resin the correct this.
Yep, what was said above, you do always want to make sure it's mixed first.
@@VinceVenturella thanks Vince. Do you think it’s worth giving a minute or two on the vortex mixer?
What tips can you offer if one were use clear resin from a 3d printer w/ UV pen?
It's the same basic type of chemical. But, one thing that you'll likely run into is that if you use printer resin you will not get a dry, hard surface. Normally this type of resin will have what's called an "oxygen inhibition layer" on the surface. What that means is that if oxygen is present you will not be able to fully cure the very last bit of the surface, it will always remain tacky.
The resins that are made for jewellery as mentioned in this video have been formulated to get around this problem and will usually have a nice dry hard surface when cured fully. I don't remember how exactly that is achieved though (it's been a few years since I read up on it and I barely remember what I did yesterday).
Sometimes blasting the crap out of the resin with a very powerful UV source can mitigate some of the stickiness but I don't think it will ever remove the effect completely. Curing that type of resin while submerged, thus blocking oxygen from touching it, will work. So you'd cure it, then submerge it and cure it again. Not always practical but it can work in some situations. Or if you happen to have access to a chamber with inert gas, that'll work too.
And the last option is to clean the surface with IPA which is the traditional way you'd clean a model from a printer before curing it. Risky if you have a painted surface nearby though.
@@treborrrrr100%correct!! Great explanation!!!!
Great explanation above and far better than what I could offer.
Does UV resin take mica powder to do the whole crazy swirl effect? I've only seen it used with 2 part pour... Search 3d printed guitar epoxy to see what im talking about if you are unfamiliar :) - thanks in advance!
It won't really capture it the same way, as its much less viscous.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you much for the reply. 🙏🙏🙏
👍👍
Vince
This is unrelated but I was wondering: have you done a video on how we paint a shape on a rippling surface! I've looked at many photos but I can't see an equation to game it. Do you have ideas on this? It seems so random depending how the shapes..shape..do you have a hack?
I'm not sure what you mean, but happy to help. Can you give me some more detail?
@@VinceVenturella thanks Vince. Specifically I have a banner. This banner has folds in it. I want to freehand a symbol on it but if I paint it like it's flat I assume it won't look right. Maybe I'm overthinking it?
I've looked a photos of flags but I don't see a pattern. Just that the more extreme the ripple the more curved the straight line becomes.
I thought you might have covered this at some point.
Do you ever have classes in Iowa?
Nothing regularly, but I'll teach anywhere given the chance.
Also missing shrinkage jokes
i really wanna see all these videos, but i see that "HC 407" and feel like i'm trying to start one piece lol. i like that proacryl royal purple enough that i'll do it eventually. ballparking the math (20min x 407eps) is almost 135 hr of learning i have to do
THink of it more like walking intoa library, there are more books than you would read in a lifetime, but that isn't the point of course, it's to find the one book you need. :)
you could say tip number 4 is... let it cook?
Ouch. ;)
Thought you had new ideas, I must of misunderstood
I don't understand what you mean?
@@VinceVenturella well all these water effects have been around now for quite awhile.