Engine Revving Up and Down at Idle FIXED
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- Опубліковано 31 лип 2018
- Car won't idle normally? Engine surges or revs up at idle? Mine used to as well, until I discovered what the problem was. I replaced multiple parts that may not have been needed to fix this issue. Hopefully this video help someone else out.
The car used in this video is a Hyundai Elantra 2001. Same or similar engines: Hyundai Accent Elantra Tiburon Tuscon Kia Spectra5 Saab 9-3 9000
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I got a bmw 1 series 2.0L diesel and 80% of the time when I turn the car on the idle revs drop every second and then come back up again it also does it when I drive so it feels like the car is jerking and pulling but I have no clue what it is and I can’t find anything similar anywhere can anyone help?
I’m no help on a Diesel engine unfortunately. Hopefully someone out there will see your question and can help. 🤷🏼♂️
I’m not sure how this guy diagnoses it
My saxo was revving itself and it wasn’t into any depth and wasn’t worth a twelve minute video to figure it out , go into a dark place with a torch get one of those small water bottles that’s you’d use to water plants , put it in mist mode and spray it at the engine and shining the torch at it , you can see where the waters being blown as mist and diagnoses where the air leak is , talking about gaskets and stuff whatever it’s just an air leak lol
@@thistownfails I think it’s a problem with my EGR
@@skenginmyblazer8190 I got a fabia vrs my egr is blanked off, if the car is revving it’s self it’s because a pipes leaking and it’s getting more air than fuel
Finally a video with a 16 valve Hyundai engine repair with useful information.
Thanks! Glad this helped. 🙌🏼
Hello sir , yesterday I had the same problem, and after watching your video, I searched and found a leak in EGR tube causing the truble to my engine, and i fixed it, you saved me lot of time and money sir, so thank you very very very much.
Glad it helped! Good find too! Thanks for commenting that could help someone else out as well. 🙌
What did it for Me was the smile on Your face when You realized "hey - I think I just fixed it!" GREAT video!
Haha. Thanks! I remember how that felt. 😅
He said schwing !!!! Very thorough garth
🤣
this guy is good,one of the best youtube on line,very good info !!
Thanks for the kind words! 🙌🏼
Nice to see father taking good care of his daughter 🙂!
Thanks man! 🙏🏼🙏🏼
Fathers are important
Almost as important as Mothers. But it takes both to win the game sometimes.
If rather have a good mother than a good father. Because I did
Haha p.s. make your daughter fix the car. Opportunity missed
You are the MAN! I have a Ford focus 2.0L zetec... Exact problem you were having from start to finish. 10 + years now. Lots and lots of money spent all over and car would run fine for a while after replacing various parts then poof back to square one again. All these experts working on this car and all of them saying the same thing after replacing parts, that it's got to be a vacuum leak somewhere but they can't find it. In the morning I'm going to see if it is that gasket. I'll let you know when I'm done. Thank you so much for this post.
It’s sucks but I hope that’s what it is! Once fixed that car was solid for another 80k miles. Sold it for what paid for it after using it for years!!! Always a good goal for cheap used cars.
Hey James, did you ever find out if it was the intake gasket on your 2.0 zetec? I’m having the same issue
@@justinrandolph7462 It was the TPS on the the throttle body. Not one throttle position sensor i purchased online, at part stores, and finnaly from the manufacturer themselves, not one worked. Transmission keeps shifting back and forth trying to find the shift points and a constant high standing idle. I've changed out every part and gasket that alot of well meaning people claimed was the problem and none of that stuff worked either. The only thing that fixed the problem was a used part at a junkyard that came off an identical car. Problem solved, now all that's left is to find out why all those new parts didn't. I was told that Ford made changes in the original design of the(TPS) made for automatic transmission 01-02 Focuses. These changes unfortunatly make the part function improperly.
@@justinrandolph7462 Not the gasket. The problem was the TPS on the throttle body. The transmission constantly shifting and the high idle. I finnaly located an exact model car like mine with an automatic transmission in a junk yard. I took the whole throttle body, TPS still attached, off the junk car and immediately put it on mine and without doing anything else I climbed in and started it up. Problem solved! Everything back to normal operations again. Im convinced that every one of these TPS parts that I have purchased over the years from different parts stores, including the factory itself, are actually the identical looking manual transmission part instead. Considering that I went and bought both parts and put them on my car one after the other and got the same messed up results as before with the high idle and sporadic shifting with the transmission. Car went back to running fine again once i put the junkyard part back on.
Thanks u for this video that gave me another clue why my car is reving up and down and stalling then just dies before i start throwing parts at it
Glad to help! 👍🏼
I love the way that video ends “I Love Manuals!”
Truth!!! 🙌🏼
Me too!
OMG!!!! I've been trying to find someone who had the same problem and made a video. THANK YOU!!
Glad I could help!
I had a bearing going bad in the alternator. It would turn hard sometimes and smooth sometimes. When the bearing would hang up a bit it would pull the engine down causing the computer to open the throttle to find the idle point it wanted to see, when the bearing would smooth out it did the reverse causing the engine to speed up. As a result of the bearing doing that the engine would idle up and down erratically. There are bearings in the alternator, power steering pump, water pump, A/C compressor, tensioner pully, and idler pulley so any of these could cause this problem. Anytime you unplug the throttle body or remove it from the intake you have to reset the computer and let the car idle for about 15 minuets with no load so the computer can relearn the idle settings. This needs to be done when the vehicle is cold with no electrical load and up until the engine is warm so the computer can learn the different positions to hold the throttle body plate at different engine temperatures, that is why you need to let it idle for 15 minuets or so.
W. M be
Pm
I’m hook throttle boody?
Awesome job. My 2005 is giving me some similar issues.
Thanks man! Hope this helps you resolve yours too. 🙌🏼
What was wrong with your 2005? I have a 2005 revving as well
Nicely done! Im glad it all worked out for you!
Yes! Thank you!
Impressive repair! Great video!
Thanks man! I’m no mechanic, but I’m learning as I go. Hoping to help others do the same.
awesome thankyou, I have the exact same problem with my 2001 Elantra! fantastic information and a great big help.
Awesome! Well, not that you had car trouble but that this helped! 😜👍🏼
So smooth display and illustration to the fix. Thumbs up
Thanks man! Means a lot. 🙌🏼
Thank you so much! Keep posting these videos. Really helped me out alot.
Thanks! Glad it helped.
Very good troubleshooting practise. Great video. Thanks.
Thanks man! Appreciate the kind words. 🙌🏼
You're a good Father.
I miss mine.
Thanks so much I have this issue with my 2011 Acura MDX!! Been to the dealership for the run around.
Glad this helped.
ive got a 2009 hyundai i30 thats just started doing this exact same thing. so glad i found this video. im going to check my intake manifold tomorrow! it was really starting to boggle my mind. i have zero vacuum leaks from my lines. fingers crossed i find the issue :)
It’s not a fun repair for sure but so satisfying to be able to fix things yourself. Glad this helped. Hope you identify and can get it resolved! 🙌🏼
@@troysgarage oh for sure its not fun, my intake is at the front so luckily i dont have to go under the car. though i still have to disconnect the coolant hoses/throttle body/ sensors and injectors. Unfortunately i didn't find any issues with the gaskets they look great actually. but i did find dirt on the fuel rail right where the seem is on the manifold, which i think might be actually a crack. damn plastic manifolds. Ive taken it out completely and gone around the seams with some silicone. Ill have to wait to add it back and see if it changes anything!
Good find though. Yeah those plastic manifolds are a little too cheap! Company saves money while the consumer pays the price later. 🤷🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️
U on point bro thanks! I was lost my problem was similar
Yeah same but I'mma check the gasket tomorrow and see if it work
You are a better Dad & mechanic than I am. Same problem but there's no way I can do all that.
Fake it till you make it. 😜
Nobody is the best at something the first few times they try.
Lool I watched the vid before I read the description.. I thought, wow it does pretty much the same thing as my Hyundai Tiburon... Actually, it's almost exactly the same as my Hyundai Tiburon...
Damn, it's totally replicating my Tiburon......
Cheers for the help man!
Hahaha. Good one. Yup same engine. 🙌🏼
Does this work for recent models, I’m having a similar issue but it also feels like it’s losing power when I’m driving around with a little vibrations too
Wow. That is great work. I have a same problem with my Honda Accord. I dont think I can do it myself as I am not that knowledgeable with car. I hope it does not cost me fortune. Thanks for sharing the video.
QAJUSSI your welcome. Hope it helps! 👍🏼
Give it a go my man. You'd be surprised what you can achieve following videos like this on UA-cam. There's almost certainly gonna be detailed ones for your exact car too!
Well said! I also use videos to learn. In fact that’s how my channel got started. I watched a video and said to myself “I could do a better video than that!” Then I made myself prove it. Haha. I’ve gotten better with time and experience too. Do’t be afraid to try! 🙌🏼🕺🏼
@@troysgarage thanks mate, found this one real helpful. Just got myself a Yaris Verso (big ugly Vitz/Echo I think it's called over there) for my family as I've spent the past year working on my own Toyota's thanks to UA-cam vids. Paid very little for it, it's quite beat up but it's got pretty low mileage and is solid. Took a few hours to fix little issues which cost nothing to fix (fuses, dodgy cabling, and pinching a few things off an old Yaris I've got laying around I'm using for parts). I've got a p0505 which is the idle air control valve. I cleaned the throttle body while on the car, and found somebody had taped over the hole inside it lol. I guess this was a temp 'fix' in the past?! Removed the tape and sprayed the TB which has caused it to start revving between 1500-2000rpm at idle. It was just over 1000 before and never changed. I figure I've gotta get the TB assembly off the car and take a closer look, maybe check the wires with a multi meter too in case they're faulty. The idle air control valve probably needs a good clean and test itself. I never even thought of disconnecting it and starting the car til I saw this vid to see what happens so I'll try that in the morning. It's a bit of a bitch to get at, unlike the 1litre parts car I've messed with which had an acre of room either side of the TB.
I remember the anxiety the first time I did an oil change, then filters, then plugs.... Then I realised how much I was actually enjoying it and as long as you've got time set aside (or a spare car ;) ) you're never in a rush and finding solutions to problems is very rewarding, especially when it's not costing you a fortune. Done brakes, loads of stuff under the hood and a fair few electrical bits and pieces since and feel more confident every time. With UA-cam and a bit of time anyone can work on their cars!
Happy you found the fix!
The fix is always the last thing you try! Haha. I was hoping it was an easier fix, but I did finally get it! 👍🏼
One hell of a fix brother!!!!! Major Props!!! Kudos! :)
Thanks man. This one just about had me stumped. 😱
Dude..that was a great video. I also have a 2001 with the same issue. Until I fix it with confidence thanks too you dad. 👍
That’s the goal for sure
Worked great. Replaced the throttlebody mounting gasket and wallah!
Awesome!!! 🙌🏼
Sign language known the world over by diy mechanics to illustrate revs going up and down....wave hand around from the wrist.....sometimes accompanied with a sound impression to match 😂
Guilty as charged! 😜🤷🏼♂️
Haha, that is an imitation of the tach needle.
Going very well, with your work! Great video, thank you, Troy!
Thanks man!
How did you get the throttle position sensor out? Hyundai put this in a very odd place?
Her: "I love manual!" - Yes you did raise her right. My older sister is the same way and won't drive automatics. She just got a 2022 Mustang 5.0 6 spd, which caused me to get bit by the bug again and get my own manual Mustang too. Couldn't be happier after not having driven a manual for decades.
Automatic is boring! 🤣
You can take wd40 (non flammable) and spray it around all of the hoses and gaskets and when you hear the engine rpm's go up you have found you're leak.
To identify a vacuum leak is the issue before even wasting any time and money replacing sensors, hook up a scan tool and go to live data.
Go down to the short term fuel trims and see what % they are at.
If a vacuum leak is present, the fuel trims will be very positive anywhere from 5-25. This is the computer adding fuel to compensate for the lean condition the vacuum leak is causing.
press the throttle and hold it around 2000 rpm's. If the fuel trims go into negative or close to 0...you have a vacuum leak present.
This is because when you rev the engine, you are out of vacuum and in positive pressure.
Doing these procedures saves time, money and a dry scalp from scratching it too much.
.
Not the best thing to do with a exhaust leak
The issue is a vacuum leak not an exhaust leak. That said…. this type of testing should be done with caution. You are doing it at your own risk.
Spray water bottle with a heavy stream will be safer, you can hear it suck into the hole and car will sputter slightly. Slight steam clean of piston won't hurt it or use a smoke machine, some are near $100 now
@@menace1485 ... my smoke machine cost me $ 4.19 at the Smokers Shop. 1 corn cob pipe !
Your a great dad to your daughter 👍
I appreciate that
Good info and did think it was leads as any malfunction begins in a lead corrosion or not oiled enough to for the cleaning car has modes in some models now modern cars
Love your videos mate :-) I'm doing tonnes of work to my i30 2010 hyundai
Thanks! That means a lot! 🙌🏼
Same issue in a 01 focus, no codes. Only thing I did before this was change the spark plugs 2 weeks before this issue.
Thanks alot, im gonna check this on my car that has been doing this for months.
Glad to help. 👍🏼
Do you happen to be my neighbor? I just moved to a new place and my neighbors car revs up and down and up and down and up and down every morning. I was wondering why they were doing it, maybe to warm it up quicker. But I realized the sound was too consistent. 😂
@@sbfguy7793 probably not i sold that car like 2 weeks ago
🤣🕺🏼
Very Informative video Thanx! Have the same problem on my 2006 Opel Corsa 1.4. Also changed the tps, icv and checked for leaks, never thought of checking the manifold gasket!
Same problem with my corsa b 16v but only when the engine is warm and rmps drops when shifting gears sometimes it turns off.did you fix it?
Hey Nixon, I’m still driving with the problem, I’ve decided to take the head off as well to do valve stem seals, so still need to make time to fix it. I have replaced the tps, icv and map sensors, I would recommend trying that first, and if the problem still persist like in my case you must check the intake manifold gasket like in this video.
@@likebike2 maybe lambda sensor?
That can also be🤔We can always unplug it and see what happens if there is any difference, but it will definitely throw a fault code
@@likebike2 who know it can be many things.i will try with cleaning throttle body and IAC sensor
Brilliant Thankyou for taking the time to make the video
Thanks for the kind words. Glad this has helped so many people! 👍🏼
Love those csi-miami-style click n wink n fingershoot
Legend video. Man newer cars ain't built how they used to build em. Cars are a head ake now lol
You ain’t kidding!!! Thanks for the kind words! Means a lot. 🙌🏼
So my g35 revs up when I shift and then it goes but it feels forced I first noticed on second but now feel it in mostly all gears, no gear struggles to go in though. It it just the clutch giving out on me?
*very good video in my case my ford taurus when I turn it on the rpm goes up to 1500 and then goes down to 600 and goes up and down but when it heats up it stops doing that, the codes show me injector number 3 and maf sensor or it could be the iac valve ? my car has these symptoms when it's cold when it's hot it does little*
Good vídeo, butt the end was awesome great father daughter moment ❤ thank you for sharing.
Thanks so much! She was super happy to have her own car back for sure!
Nice fix bud and thanks for the vid 👍☺️
Thanks man. That means a lot! 🙌🏼
4:38 to 10:02 Another perfectly good white t-shirt full of grease and oil. I'm sure glad that I'm not the only one to do this... (for me... on a regular basis) Thanks for the great video. I'll be chasing down the same vacuum leak this weekend.
Yup I underestimated how messy this would get. It escalated quickly! 🤷🏼♂️
Wow thanks for sharing obd code's. Now I can easily check it myself
Glad it helped. 👍🏼
I had Hyuandi in college. It used to do this as well.
My 335i was throwing several codes indicating throttle body circuit, throttle body valve stuck and both cam sensors. I disconnected the harness on my DME and found corrosion on pins. Cleaned them with vinegar and then reinstalled. The corrosion caused my 30 amp engine fuse (#37 on 07' 335i in the junction box under glove box) Replaced the fuse and it runs like a champ!
WOW!!!! That was a lucky find! Thanks for sharing that tip! Goes to show that even the simplest thing can cause our fancy cars to misbehave!
@@troysgarage I don't knoe about luck it took lots of reading and 2 days to find the problem. Tried lots of different solutions before checking the above.
Good call!!!! Sorry if I made it sound easy! I guess the lucky part was finally finding the answer. 🤷🏼♂️
How on Earth do i do that with my 2014 Nissan Versa Note?
@@davecrupel2817 Try to Google the engine fuse location, and engine wiring harness to find the dme, ecu, ( All the same thing to my knowledge). Then check the connectors and fuse.
We had a similar problem in our 2001 Hyundai Elantra. As I can see it's more common than I thought. The car was already old when it started so we scraped it a couple months later. That was in 2011
We’ve babied this car along. My daughter is still driving it today. However it’s getting too scary for her now that she’s got a baby, it’s about time to upgrade and scrap this one. It’s been a great little car! 👍🏼
My daughter presented me with her car exhibiting the same behavior. Thank you for sharing!
Hope this helps to resolve it. 🙏🏼
Hi buddy great video you have me thinking now here's my problem. U.k Vauxhall Astra Sri 2010 when warmed up if I go into 1st gear engine revving up to 3 I can not find the cable any were but I'm going to check the things I seen on your video and see if it works🤞
Thanks bro got the same prob 2005 sonata. Gotta try this i guess. A lot of work. By the way, chunks are coming off of my steering wheel too! Freaking hyundais!
We were down to bare metal on the top side of the wheel. I finally put one of those cheap covers over it. Maybe should have done that years sooner and saved the wheel. 🤷🏼♂️
It's a 20 year old Hyundai. I am amazed it still runs. Given of course that I myself have a 15 year old car that runs very well, but it's a lexus. 20 years ago Hyundai was still learning how to effectively copy cars from Toyota.
You aren’t wrong. But even the older cars will last a long time is you take care of them.
They did nothing like Toyota. Calm down with this Toyota pride. Hyundai dorsnt make boring ass cars just like Toyota does. They cant even figure out how to bring back their one and only legend car, the Supra. They had to ask BMW about that.
Can’t argue with the Supra comment! I was super excited when it was announced, then disappointed when I found out it was a rebrand! They could have done something epic and blew it! 🤷🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️
@@RBZ06LT6 you cant be serious right now. Just like in the 70s toyota went after bmw and mercedes, in late 90s and early 2000 Hyundai went after Toyota. Their Equus was an identical replica of Lexus LS, for instance.
Before you changed your old idle air control valve, did turning the ac on made the engine run wilder? Or the rpm does jmmediately when the ac compressor kicks in?
Yes it did. I might not use the term “wildly” but it was a noticeable change when AC kicked on.
great video man thankyou! My '98 coupe is just hunting a little but it's not right. TPS is fine. Your video leads me to IAC next check. What code reader are you using?? I need one but having trouble finding out which ones work & i'm hoping it would be same as yours! My coupe is 2.0l G4GF RD2. Tried an ELM 327 bluetooth thingy a while ago but could not get it to read
I use the Innova 3120f - www.amazon.com/Innova-BLUETOOTH-Engine-Battery-vehicles/dp/B06Y5MDLX4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?crid=235I50WOX0X45&keywords=innova+3120f&qid=1552885848&s=gateway&sprefix=innova+3120f,aps,293&sr=8-1-fkmrnull&linkCode=sl1&tag=diyhomeandaut-20&linkId=deec17b6cd4a00bcc646b9f149f9a252&language=en_US
The Innova 5023 is also a solid option with a few less features and a more affordable price - www.amazon.com/Innova-5023-CarScan-Reader-Freeze/dp/B076N5V6SN/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=innova+5023&qid=1552885893&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmrnull&linkCode=sl1&tag=diyhomeandaut-20&linkId=5f7fccb1c575aeed81bcc0c96b2eb1cc&language=en_US
Youre amazing papa! Good job.😘😎
Thanks. She’s a good kid and worth it.
Hey! I have almost exactly the same car, an AT 2002 Hyundai Elantra, and i have some issues with the transmission. First, the car recognises the 3rd gear as part of the D gear and the 2nd gear as part of the L gear, instead of each being independent. And also, what no one has been able to find an explanation for so far, if the car has just been started, you have the "option" of flooring it and it going into some kind of "overdrive mode" where it is louder, faster, and if kept accelerating ca go until the rev limit before it shifts. Do you know what may be causing this?
Check fluid levels in the trans. Also visually inspect the fluid and smell it. It should be light red in color and be almost odorless. If it’s dark brown and smells bad you have likely burned your clutches.
thanks for sharing now I have an idea what to look for
Glad I could help
Thanks Troy brilliant video and really helpful now need to sort my car out😂
One check at a time. I’m much better now at diagnosing these kinds of issues. I used to just throw parts at problems till they were fixed. (Parts cannon! Hahaha)
Let’s face it your motor sounds like it’s unhealthy anyway
You are a legend, thank you👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Wow! Thanks for the amazing compliment! I’m blushing! 😜🤘🏼
Thanka for this i had a similar problem with my 91 civic si
Glad this helped!
I’m looking at an ek and this is the only problem w it, is it worth buying?
Had same issue, i have checked the intake manifold gasket and seems its fine. Also added some gasket maker on the intake manifold to be sure. Also cleaned IACV and throttle body. Replaced pcv valve as well. No luck....just checking, so its not your TPS and IACV that fixed it right?
chanrio1308 try cleaning/replacing MAF sensor
My hyundai elantra 2013 does this at 800-1000 rpm but it seems to only do it when the Air conditioner is on any idea? Also had a check engine for a downstream o2 sensors but after getting new spark plugs the check engine light is gone. The reving problem was gone after new spark plugs but is back again. Also interior lights dim on and off
You can also try cleaning the IAC valve, that problem happens just because the inner mecanism is getting sticky and the ECM can't handle it smoothly.
Great tip! But.... that didn't solve my issue. I chased it with parts and cleaning until I got to the root cause - intake manifold gasket.
I have a 2004 kia optima 2.4L with the same problem-wish u had a good video on removing/replacing it👍
The process is very similar but bolt locations would be a little different. I believe in you! Take a chance and save yourself a bunch of money. It’s very satisfying to complete a job like this on your own! 🙌🏼👍🏼
Great job .. now do you have a video for the shocks.. My lady have a Hyundai 2005 we replaced the shocks but still have a bumping sound.. like to see how you do it
Bumping sound could be warn motor mounts or bushings on the control arms (assuming front is where the sound is coming from). Check those things first.
Try replacing bushing first it's super cheap and really common to cause a rather weird bouncing and cranking sounds
I just replaced my TPS and IAC and the car ran a lot better for about a week and a half and now it's doing this
I cleaned the TB unit, still the rpm is at 650 on idle on hyundai i20. Now, I checked for resistances of each 4 ignition HT cables. The 4th wire being the shortest is supposed to have lowest value, however, it reads 8.8 ohm which is very much higher than all the 3 wires..2.4,.2.0, 1.8 respectively. Is the 4th wire leading to drop of rpm to 650??? Awaiting reply. Thanks.
I don’t have any idea. Sorry. Hopefully another viewer can chime in to help out.
whats up bro love the video man so i just recently cleaned my throttle body on my 05 gmc sierra 5.3 just because i had no check engine light on for it before so after i cleaned it i installed everything back the right way and did the 3 minute idle re learn well tried now when i turn it on it warms up good but once it warms up it starts to surge the rpm goes up and down then when i put it in reverse or drive it revs up and going into gear or to reverse, drive any when i drive it and give it a little pull to see it it feels good i feel good normal power but as soon as i let go the gas now it stays reved up or accelerated then once i come to a stop the idle kind of goes down like slowly and just starts surging again do you think this could be my problem or what else do you think it can be i replaced air filter cleaned my maf sensor do you think this may be the cause of that before my truck wouldn’t do that it would die out coming to a stop though so i would just hold the gas to keep the idle from drop all the way and stalling the truck ?
Sounds like an air leak somewhere past the MAF sensor.
@@troysgarage okay thank you i will check it out
What is the brand of your scanner tool? It can be hook up to internet? Ty
Innova 3120f - amzn.to/2TedB6y - Yes you can connect it to the internet. There's also online support to answer questions and assist in diagnosing issues. It's a great little scanner and does all the things I need it to. 👍
Having the same problem w my honda, replaced the air valve yesterday with no luck, hopefully this can help 🤞🤞
Hope you find the issue. This wasn’t very fun. But satisfying once it was fixed!
Great dad , looking out for your daughter !!
Thanks 👍
i have a 2002 Honda Accord that i just bought as a project, when i turn it on after a while it starts to rev on its own just like yours showed in the video, i was planning on buying a new throttle body to see if that works but what do you think i should do
Check for vacuum leaks first. Parts may not solve the problem and some leaks are free to fix.
I'm having the same problem with my Honda civic lx! Were you able to fix the problem?
Please let me know how you fixed the problem on the 2000 Honda Civic LX!
Did the check engine light ever come on? Or can you get error codes even when the check engine light never came on?
Check engine light did come on, I mention the codes I got with mine. I've heard others say they didn't see any codes or lights, just a rough or inconsistent idle. It depends on how bad the air leak is, mine was pretty bad!
Great information thank you ... My car is having the same issue but no codes are coming up... Is there a way to figure out what's wrong do exist and everything and hope I get lucky
If no codes then I suspect a vacuum leak. Check all the hoses for cracks first then start looking at gaskets. Hope this helps.
Did you change the tps and iac and the gasket or was there any other sensors that you replaced
That’s all I changed. Mine was definitely the gasket causing mine. The other parts were obviously old and the tps would likely have failed during the work of replacing the gasket. Those parts aren’t very expensive so I myself don’t mind replacing them while I’m in there. I figure I’m saving a bunch of money by doing the work myself so might as well put some of that back into parts (or tools - I love buying new tools). 🤷🏼♂️
@@troysgarage ok thanks and yes i also like buying new tools thats why i kinda do whatever i can instead of taking it to a mechanic thanks a lot brother 👍👍👍
I'm having a similar problem with my 2009 mercury mountaineer, except mine doesn't ramp up all the way, my rpm would randomly go up and down sometimes when I'm getting past the 60 mph mark and would give like a small kick in the in the performance and rarely the car would die on me, I got the throttles cleaned but still having the same problem, I'm wondering if it's the gasket.
If not the gasket it’s definitely a vacuum leak somewhere. Look at any vacuum lines and look for cracks or loose connections. If all that looks good it could be the intake manifold gasket.
When sporadic idle, usually it's the " Idle Air Control Valve " or something to do with Air. Check for Air / Vacuum Leaks or Idle Air Control Valve not opening / closing correctly. Another possibility... Throttle Position Sensor or Throttle Body / Butterfly not closing correctly or dirty.
Yup, that’s exactly what this video is all about.
So like. How do we fix this?
@@adrianprinsloo5930 - Reread my post again and again. You will know HOW to fix it after reading !!! *
One way of figuring out if a leak is present is by blowing smoke from a cigarette into one of the tubes. Scotty Kilmer shows a video on engine leaks
that a nice one works with weed smoke XD
I used the throttle body cleaner method. Crank it up and start lightly spraying around the hose connections on the intake manifold. The vehicle will rev up if the cleaner gets into the manifold allowing you to pinpoint the leak
Hey I do the same for my daughters car , but dude I don’t just spend money throwing parts at it ! I do the research and read the codes as well , and make sure it’s defective before replacing. It can expensive quick ..I believe you might have needed a idle relearn after replacing the tps...along with the iac valve which you usually just clean it..clean out the throttle body it’s probably dirty as well. That other sensor you unplugged as well appears to be a map sensor ? Not sure., cause I didn’t see a mass airflow sensor..
Im hoping this is my fix ive done so many things to my car and this seems to be the last think ill get back to this channel and comment
Please do let everyone know. Hope this video helps.
Man I never would have thought to even check that. I hope you can respond to this if you have knowledge about. I'm having a similar issue with revving too high mine actually sits in between 1500 and 1800 idling. But when I'm driving my car won't rev past 2600 RPM. Any thoughts? I've replaced every intake sensor, can and crank sensor, unclogged the cat (which was bad) and I'm still having these issues.
Have you solved this and how did you solve it?
Depending on the year of the vehicle sometimes they just need to have their idle “relearned”. I fixed a strange issue in our 08 Corolla with a simple re training of the computer idle. Maybe it’s just that easy. Google search for idle reset and you make/model. Hope this helps.
Same issue on my 02 elantra. Was your car also experiencing long hesitated shifting as well when you had the issue. If so did this fix also resolve the problem?
She never complained about shifting issues but I could imagine a rough idle would mess with how the transmission would sense when to shift.
I'd say yes it can do - it almost replicates a slipping clutch occasionally. My 2001 Toyota has a problem with the idle air control valve causing it to both idle high on start and then rev up and down (1500-2100rpm) when idling. So when I hit the clutch the revving starts happening. If I give it gas in first gear when it's at its peak it'll overrev, and if I take my time changing gear similar happens. Hopefully it's just part of your air/sensor related problem rather than the clutch.
If you don’t take it to the mechanic shop, how do you the find the codes that you displayed in your video?
Handheld scanner tool or take it to Oreilly's or Autozone. They can scan codes for free.
@@troysgarage Cheers for the reply, will do
Bro i had the same issue with my 2004 accent...idle control broken..yesterday i removed d same and glued with good resin...now very fine...me too like u...im alone doing my all electric..electronic and auto. Myself....im so happy...u r doing like me...
issac joseph I love to fix things on my own. Learn new things! Good times!
This valve will get in Ali express for 8 dollar..I purchased and is now very nice..old one i kept safely..
great vid, thanks
Thanks man!!! 🤘🏼
I have a Nissan Patrol Y61 GR 2.8td (td6 engine) and it revs itself at idle sometimes, and almost everytime i drive it. And the check engine light pops up when it revs by its self (goes up and down, sometimes even over 3k rpm) , when i rev it it doesnt show. Do you know what might be causing it? Bad injector? Bad fuel pump? bad tps ?
Scan for codes. Even if the light goes off those codes are stored. It should give us the answer. If you don’t have a code reader hit Autozone or Orielly’s. Either can scan for code and they do it free. Code readers are fairly cheap these days. I’d recommend picking one up. Here’s one I have: amzn.to/39PHqUA
Thank you very much for your video, it helped me a lot. I wanted to know if you have the part number for the intake gasket? since in my locality I cannot find the spare part. thank you. Greetings.
This is it right here: amzn.to/2YAll7u
I have a 2000 5psd v6 Camry it's idling super high around 2k and it accelerates on its own so far I've swapped the whole throttle body unit with the iac and still nothing I cleaned the tb and nothing swapped the ecu still nothing any ideas? What I'm try today is search for a fuse or something for the iac/throttle/tps and check throttle cable
They gave me the same numbers as yours. I changed my tps but it wasn’t that and I want to change the Idle Air Control Valve. Should I change it in case it is the Idle Air Control Valve? I also don’t want to go straight to the gasket since most car repairs over charge being that it is a small town I live in.
Also it is a lot of work so I do understand it being expensive
The only one I didn’t get was the 303 cylinder misfire code
Start simple for sure. If it resolves it you win and save money.
i had the same problem with my Alfa Romeo 156, i had it fixed but now it idles a bit high. When i press the gas pedal it revs up but takes a long time for the idle to return to normal. Please help, my car does not have a TPS and it is a electronic throttle so all of this is controlled via the throttle body and ecu i assume. What can i do to fix this ? Would it be possible that a blocked vacuum hose can cause this ?
That does still sound like a vacuum issue somehow. Someone can correct me if I’m wrong, but I’d bet your engine advance and choke are controlled by vacuum lines. Or it’s possible a sensor is going bad. Hope this or another comment can help!
My Honda S03 civic does this. My mechanic replaced my intake with an bottle intake and said it will resolve the issue. The issue got worse. The jumping of the revs.. 2k to 1k then 2k again. Its very annoying. I need help. Cause it doesn't seem like they know what they are doing
My 2018 Dodge Charger is doing this once it gets down to 1000-1500 rpm it jolts a little. Exhaust has a constant humming. any ideas?
thx man my car is now fix !!!!
Glad it helped!