This video is added to the small list of videos that I actually watched from beginning to end without skipping parts lol You did an awesome job of editing and keeping it to the point. Thank you. 1st time seeing someone mention Rotors from an Impala
Thank you very much. Two items I would want to mention if you choose to follow the video. First, do not cut that emergency brake cable off just past the feral until you thoroughly have adjusted the emergency brakes so that they work fine. If you do, and the emergency brakes have not been adjusted, you might find that the cable is now a bit short. Ask me how I know. The second item is to make sure that you properly adjust the emergency brake on the calipers prior to installation. I failed to do this, and the gap between the rotor and caliper was wide enough that the emergency brake, when applied, did not make sufficient contact. Then I had to remove the caliper, take it apart to adjust it, then reinstall it. so, if needed, when you first put the brakes on, play with it to make sure that the brake pads are making sufficient contact with the rotor before calling it a day. Again, ask me how I know. L O L.
Got everything to do the conversion Friday. Couple of things I've noted in my conversion... 1). I found that opening up the lug bolt holes with a 37/64 drill made putting the rotors on a little easier. 2). The recommended rotors were a REAL tight fit on the hub. Likewise, my axle hubs have a slight 'step' in them. This makes getting the rotors all the way seated and running true difficult. I may put the rotors in my lathe and open the center hole up .005-.010. May also machine the back side of the rotor hub to accommodate the 'step'. The rotors currently have a slight taper machined on the back which may also be creating a fitment issue .
some axles hub face have been drilled for access to the bolts , so as long as you are willing to spend more time cutting the backing plate off - you could theoritically skip the axle removal / seal replacement step.
True, after I started taking it apart I could see the axle seals needed to be replaced. So, stripped it down anyway. If your seals are good, that would be faster.
Looks awesome, I would have slapped some paint on the frame and rear-end since you had the bed off. Of course after a little sanding the surface rust..
Since I do just about everything on my own, I just do not have enough time. Life takes over at times and projects take much longer to get done. Maybe the next one!
Nicely done. Shouldn't the flexible line that connects to the main line coming from the master cylinder be facing forward? What did you use to cut the brake cables?
Man I've been watching your videos for so long and I had no idea you're in Rockwall Texas LOL I'm in North Garland Texas. I drive 91 red obs single cab stepside. Small world
Nice job but I think u said that the hard line was a 3/8 line its a 3/16 x12" ,long and the other hole u said it was a 9/16 hole for the cable but other than that nice job thanks for sharing it helped me alot.
Appreciate the video and the links. I’m trying to do a swap on my 94 Roadmaster which you would think would be a piece of cake considering the impala ss and cop cars have disk already but nope!!! Trying to come up with a caliper mount is a nightmare. I tried to get one like the one you used but the guy never emailed me back. Maybe they don’t want their product used on a car 🤷🏻♂️Oh well I got one off eBay that 🤞🏼hopefully will work.
This is a great informational video. Thank you for taking the time to do it. I do have a question. Does this upgrade move the tires out, or does it bring them in?? Meaning,closer to leaf spring, or further?
No, it does not move the placement of the wheel/tire combination. AND, it worked well with my 15" wheel. A very small amount of grinding on the outer corners of the caliper were needed, but that took less than 5 minutes with my 4.5" grinder. I am using an aftermarket aluminum wheel, other 15" rim choices may not need that, depends on the design and shape of the rim.
Just FYI the brackets from cunningham machine are cut so you can slip over the axle and not have to pull them out. Thank you for the video and i suggest removing the useless anti-lock brake system and upgrading the brake master cylinder. My 1992 Silverado will now stop on a dime! Thanks again for the video and parts list!!!!
True, and I did originally purchase the brackets for that reason. Once I got into it, I needed to replace the axle seals and had to pull the axles anyway. I did another video where I did upgrade the master cylinder as you mentioned. Thanks for the comments.
I had considered that, however, if I threw a bit too much heat into it, I could create a new problem. It is something that needs to be dealt with, but for now, I have too many other things that are a higher priority. In the future, it will get dealt with. Thanks.
I understand to put the bracket for the calipers you need to expose the mounting point. If i didnt want to pull the axles i could disassemble the drum and unbolt it. And cut what needs to be cut. Would that work the same? I heard sum people say with the little shop kit they either have to pull or cut. By the looks of you kit its seems the same process. For me cutting would be a bit easier.
I originally wanted the Little Shop kit because it did not require pulling the rear axles. Once i got into it, I found both rear axle seals leaking and had to pull them anyway to replace the axle seals. This made it easier to also remove the drum brake backing plate as well without having to cut it.
Great build, love it. I'm trying to find the upper shock mount you used. I can't find it at all. I thought you said it was a belltech part. I just can't fi d it. Any part numbers and who to buy from would would be great.
I had a hard time finding it as well. Only found it on Ebay by accident. Here is the info with link. I installed it in video #9 with the rear suspension rebuild. Belltech 88-98 Chevrolet Silverado/Sierra 1/2 Ton Upper Shock Mount Shock Ext $65.00 www.ebay.com/itm/291664924411?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338791547&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
I added a NBS 2001 master cylinder from a Suburban. They are made for 4 wheel disc brake trucks. You can use this type of m/c or use a proportioning valve to get the correct front to rear balance.
I'm in the process of bolting on the aluminum calipers off the rear of a Camaro Z28-early 90's I believe. Will the Little Shop brackets put the calipers in the correct location?
In all the videos for the 1991 truck, a list of parts, prices and links to those items used are listed below the video in the description area. You will only find the breakdown of parts for a specific area with that video. But, all info is listed.
@@ItsFreshDough I’m afraid I don’t remember. I took my caliper brake lines and the junction block that mounts on the rear end housing with me to be sure I had the correct size line and fittings.
I went with these parts so I could run my 15” rims. With that said, I did have to grind a little bit on the ends of the calipers to clear wheel weights. It is a close fit. The wheels I used were 15x7 torq thrust copies. A stock steel rim would probably have more clearance. But then you could not see the brakes.
Great video. I did mine last summer with a rear sway bar. What are your special shock relocation brackets are you running? I’m guessing they make you shocks a little more vertical from the looks. I have the shock extenders on the axle but like the others you have as well. I did my sway bar from a 99 Denali.
The upper shock relocation brackets are made by Bell Tech. I wasn't looking for them when I found them, I like them better. And, the angle is more vertical, which is good. The sway bar I am working with is from a '01 Suburban. Thanks for the comments!
As an update, the parking brake works just fine. The key to rear braking performance and the parking brake is to properly adjust the pads at installation. There is a specific method to doing this on that style of caliper. The info is available online from a variety of sources. As to the performance, even adjusted properly there is not a noticeable performance difference. I believe this has to do with the small size brakes used to fit within a 15” wheel space. There is probably more surface area for braking with a pair of shoes than these relatively small pads. Now, if you were to increase the size of rotor/caliper to fit within, say 17-18” wheels, I feel like that would be a difference you will notice. The disc definitely look better…bottom line, I personally don’t feel the looks/difference in braking are worth the $$ outlay for the small size to fit the 15” wheel. One problem I did have was that I needed to grind a couple areas on the top of the caliper for clearance of the wheel. IF you run your wheel weights on the inside of the rim, you must be very careful to place them where they are not in the path of the caliper. Or else, they will get knocked off and/or scraped along the inside of the wheel. This happened to me with aftermarket rims. Thanks for asking.
If you are referring to the holes in the rear disc rotors, the original hole was not 9/16", it had to be opened up to that size. The next pic showed the rotor installed. But yes, that is a 9/16" hole.
Yes I was, you do need to be careful of where you put wheel weights on at. On a steel wheel they would be on the rim, and that's fine. On an aftermarket wheel where you might put them on the inside, you need to be careful they are not in the path of the caliper. The fit is tight and if a wheel weight is in the way, it will knock it off.
What was the total finished cost? Do you have a list of the AC DELCO part numbers? Where did you get the mounting brackets? Very informative video by the way!!🤠👍
E-bay has those brackets,u know all those kits r the same but the rotors r the ones that r different u need the 94-96 Chevrolet 11"rotors then u drill the holes to 9/16" and that's it.
Hi. I'm looking into changing my 1994 & 1997 (both 4x4 with 6 lugs) into rear Disk. Being far from the USA, I have a problem finding parts. My Q is, if I buy this kit, which car's Disk, pads & calipers will fit? Thanks in advance
I have not done this to a 4x4, however, Cunninghammachine.com, is where I sourced my brackets and list of parts to use for the swap. Check them out, they have what you need, but it is a different part than what I used.
The rotors are from mid 90’s Impala SS. To run larger rotors, you would need different brackets. Those brackets are made to run that size calipers and rotors. I wanted something that would fit within a 15” wheel.
I did swap my master cylinder over to a NBS (01 suburban) style. You don’t have to, but, if you do not, you will need a proportioning valve to adjust your f/r bias.
@@laurencevillegarage Thank you, any advice?, I want to use the old transmission of my truck that is a cheyenne 1993 4.3 tbi, I want to put a 5.3 vortec 2002, are the connectors of the transmission the same or do they change?
@@carlosiramhernandez9103 it all depends on whether you have a manual transmission or automatic. either way, you will need the appropriate LS flywheel or flex plate. If it’s an automatic transmission, using the correct dished flex plate and a spacer will allow you to mount your original transmission up to the 5.3. If you have a manual transmission, then you just need the appropriate flywheel for a 2000 to 2004, 4.8 or 6.0. For the clutch assembly, just get a matching clutch for the flywheel combination.
I don’t know if that would work or not. There are a number of kits available that fit the passenger car 10 bolt rear but say won’t fit trucks. Not sure why or what is different. These brackets were made for this. You may be able to source a set of the SS parts and see if they fit. I’m sure there are other ways to do this, this is one way.
Awesome video. I'm always looking for alternatives. Cheaper then paying out the nose for packaging. When you have kids or like me they start coming out more then one at a time twins. You look for cheaper ways for everything. O An drink lots of coffeeeeeeee.
Thank you for the + comments. I have 2 grown daughters, I remember the “dry” times as well. I had to slow down but if forced me to get creative if I wanted to play with cars. Good luck w your projects.
Still wanting to use your 15" wheels, you have several options...a couple of companies offer kits, or you could do what I did in this video and buy the brackets and order all the separate stuff. OR, if you have a larger budget, get some bigger brakes as well. Search the internet, you will find other companies and what they offer. Just make sure they are made for your application.
What year is your truck? I have a '96 with a 350 and a stick. I've been thinking about doing the disc brake conversion for my truck so I've watch a few different conversions on UA-cam. The emergency brake would be a problem for me because the cable is gone, although I do have a replacement, the 96's require two cables that some how split off at the drivers side rear wheel, so I'll need to sort that out. Also, when you cut that e-brake cable did you add a drop of plumber's solder in back of the stop incase the screw losens. It kind of looks like you did to finish the cable end up.
The truck is a ‘91. Nope, I cut it too short and had to buy a replacement for that part of the emergency brake set up. I did learn to adjust the rear calipers so that he pads fit correctly just making contact with the rotor. If you don’t adjust them properly to begin with, you will have to remove the calipers, pull the piston and adjust. It wasn’t hard, I wish I had done it in the very beginning. Next time I won’t cut the excess cable until I know the brakes and emergency brake feature works first!
The brakes feel good. However, I can’t say I find a big difference than with dorms. Maybe because of their size. I think had I gone with larger disc/rotors I would feel a bigger difference.
Good question. If you want rear discs and just want to “get it done” and you have the extra resources, then go with the LittleShop kit. If you are tight on $ and/or you have the time and enjoy making stuff work (which is me) then go with the brackets and make your own kit. Do shop the rear calipers w parking brake feature, they are getting more expensive as time goes by. Depending on where you find them and how much, you may decide to go with a readily available kit. Performance is about the same IMO.
@@laurencevillegarage ok that helps because I have always wanted to do this in my 98 c1500 but didn’t know witch was better but because my schedule is kind of tight I may end up doing the kid at little shops even though I would love to build my own like how you did in the video
It will depend on how you use the truck. Honestly, if you run 15’s and the rest of the braking system is stock, it will look better…but braking performance won’t change much. The stock rear drums actually have more brake pad/shoe surface area than the small rear disc pads. This is just my opinion. If you upgrade to bigger brakes, yes there is a noticeable difference, otherwise you can use the $ on other areas. I won’t do 15” rear disc anymore, just not a good performance vs. cost/labor ratio. Now if you really want the look, piecing the rear together is more steps, but quite satisfying to perform and the cost is not bad, at least less than other kits available.
@@laurencevillegarage Thanks for your response. If I decide to do it myself, your parts list and video will make it a lot easier! Thanks for the great information.
Hi, great job explaining in detail. You mentioned that you won’t do 15” rear disk anymore? So for this exact setup what can you use? My son just order all the parts to work on his 1997 c1500
Jorge, check out the information below the video, I listed all my sources and links to the products I used for the swap. consulte la información debajo del video, enumeré todas mis fuentes y enlaces a los productos que usé para el intercambio.
You would need to go to the Cunningham machine website and look at the correct brackets for your application. The brackets I used are for a C1500. Since a list of parts is listed with the brackets, I would bet the rotors you need would be listed with the correct brackets.
If your truck is a 4wd you can use brakes from a 99 and up truck. The front is a little more labor intensive but well worth it. There's plenty of videos on it.
It is not a kit, I bought the brackets from Cunningham Machine and they supplied a list of parts that would fit that I would have to find on my own. But, to answer your question, it the rear in the van is the same 10" drum brake as the trucks, then it should. Call Cunningham Machine or check out their website for specifics to your project.
@@CrossSphere they all used to be cheaper, but the calipers are getting older and I guess some people have realized what they are being used for and the prices have gone up. Supply and demand.
That may be correct, the last 2 I’ve worked on were both V6 trucks. It’s been too long since I did rear brakes on a V8 to remember, don’t want to tell you false information.
This was not a pre-packaged kit. I purchased the brackets from Cunningham Machine. When you buy their brackets, they provide a list of all the parts you need. You have to source where to buy and how much you want to pay. Check out the information below the video, I listed all the details there.
Love your videos, What make and model are the rotors out of? I see the part# but would like to know the vehicle to see if I can find them drilled and slotted. thank you in advance!!
That is how the factory does it. You would not want to run it below the leaf and can’t run it above the frame. There is a gap between the spring and frame. The spring is not directly below the frame so it is not sandwiched between them. Do you have an OBS? How would you run the cables?
love the GM OBS truck ,I still drive my1991 GMC single cab shorty box rebuilt last year , it was cheaper to restore then buy new , and more dependable ,well done sir. what she looks like now,ua-cam.com/video/-BDUuHcDqW4/v-deo.html
I have plans (in the future) to mod a 2500. It can be done, but the majority of modified sport trucks are 1500's. 2500's are a smaller piece of pie. I have a K2500 as well as a c1500. I hear ya!
This video is added to the small list of videos that I actually watched from beginning to end without skipping parts lol You did an awesome job of editing and keeping it to the point. Thank you. 1st time seeing someone mention Rotors from an Impala
Thank you very much. Two items I would want to mention if you choose to follow the video. First, do not cut that emergency brake cable off just past the feral until you thoroughly have adjusted the emergency brakes so that they work fine. If you do, and the emergency brakes have not been adjusted, you might find that the cable is now a bit short. Ask me how I know. The second item is to make sure that you properly adjust the emergency brake on the calipers prior to installation. I failed to do this, and the gap between the rotor and caliper was wide enough that the emergency brake, when applied, did not make sufficient contact. Then I had to remove the caliper, take it apart to adjust it, then reinstall it. so, if needed, when you first put the brakes on, play with it to make sure that the brake pads are making sufficient contact with the rotor before calling it a day. Again, ask me how I know. L O L.
@@laurencevillegarage thank you. I have an 87 GMC Suburban that I’m working on. This was very informative
Very informative and you explained everything very smoothly and understandably .I want to perform this on a 97 Tahoe .Thank you Maryland showing ❤
Glad it was helpful! Good luck!
thank you for taking the time to put your work online
Got everything to do the conversion Friday. Couple of things I've noted in my conversion...
1). I found that opening up the lug bolt holes with a 37/64 drill made putting the rotors on a little easier.
2). The recommended rotors were a REAL tight fit on the hub. Likewise, my axle hubs have a slight 'step' in them. This makes getting the rotors all the way seated and running true difficult. I may put the rotors in my lathe and open the center hole up .005-.010. May also machine the back side of the rotor hub to accommodate the 'step'. The rotors currently have a slight taper machined on the back which may also be creating a fitment issue .
I had enlarged my rotor holes a bit, but did not have an issue with them fitting flush. Thanks for watching and commenting, may help someone else.
Great setup, very well done. You explained everything well and the whole installation is neat and tidy.
Glad it was helpful!
You're doing awesome work mister!!
OBS yep! I've got some stuff in the works. I'll be tagging you in some interesting stuff. I love what you got going!
some axles hub face have been drilled for access to the bolts , so as long as you are willing to spend more time cutting the backing plate off - you could theoritically skip the axle removal / seal replacement step.
True, after I started taking it apart I could see the axle seals needed to be replaced. So, stripped it down anyway. If your seals are good, that would be faster.
Great video!!
Great video
On the cable stop hole I used a,13/64 hole .
Looks awesome, I would have slapped some paint on the frame and rear-end since you had the bed off. Of course after a little sanding the surface rust..
Since I do just about everything on my own, I just do not have enough time. Life takes over at times and projects take much longer to get done. Maybe the next one!
@@laurencevillegarage
👍
Nicely done. Shouldn't the flexible line that connects to the main line coming from the master cylinder be facing forward?
What did you use to cut the brake cables?
That’s a brake line junction and it will function in any direction..so not an issue. I used a dremel tool with a cutting blade to make a clean cut.
Great video it explains a lot and a lot of information with it 👍🏻👍🏻
Man I've been watching your videos for so long and I had no idea you're in Rockwall Texas LOL I'm in North Garland Texas. I drive 91 red obs single cab stepside. Small world
I’m in or around Garland a lot. Grew up in the Lake Highlands area.
Nice job but I think u said that the hard line was a 3/8 line its a 3/16 x12" ,long and the other hole u said it was a 9/16 hole for the cable but other than that nice job thanks for sharing it helped me alot.
Thank you for the comments. The line is 3/16” and the threaded connection is 3/8”. The holes on the rotor were opened up to 9/16”.
A happy man :). Nice job!
Thanks for watching!
No need to upgrade the master cylinder or proportioning valve after switching to disc?
@@warrenfuller126 Yes, there is a separate video for the 88-98 master cylinder upgrade.
Appreciate the video and the links. I’m trying to do a swap on my 94 Roadmaster which you would think would be a piece of cake considering the impala ss and cop cars have disk already but nope!!! Trying to come up with a caliper mount is a nightmare. I tried to get one like the one you used but the guy never emailed me back. Maybe they don’t want their product used on a car 🤷🏻♂️Oh well I got one off eBay that 🤞🏼hopefully will work.
This is a great informational video. Thank you for taking the time to do it. I do have a question. Does this upgrade move the tires out, or does it bring them in?? Meaning,closer to leaf spring, or further?
No, it does not move the placement of the wheel/tire combination. AND, it worked well with my 15" wheel. A very small amount of grinding on the outer corners of the caliper were needed, but that took less than 5 minutes with my 4.5" grinder. I am using an aftermarket aluminum wheel, other 15" rim choices may not need that, depends on the design and shape of the rim.
Just FYI the brackets from cunningham machine are cut so you can slip over the axle and not have to pull them out. Thank you for the video and i suggest removing the useless anti-lock brake system and upgrading the brake master cylinder. My 1992 Silverado will now stop on a dime!
Thanks again for the video and parts list!!!!
True, and I did originally purchase the brackets for that reason. Once I got into it, I needed to replace the axle seals and had to pull the axles anyway. I did another video where I did upgrade the master cylinder as you mentioned. Thanks for the comments.
If you ever get paranoid about the screw on the ebrake cable you could always weld a nut to the cable instead.
I had considered that, however, if I threw a bit too much heat into it, I could create a new problem. It is something that needs to be dealt with, but for now, I have too many other things that are a higher priority. In the future, it will get dealt with. Thanks.
I tried to use your link to order bracket but your link isnt working. You might want to fix it aonyou can get your commission
Nice kit,,,👍👍👍 👍good job
Thank you!
Do you know what kind of calipers need for non parking brake brackets?
That may depend on what brackets you are using. Typically, a front caliper does not have a parking brake provision.
lovely cat
I understand to put the bracket for the calipers you need to expose the mounting point. If i didnt want to pull the axles i could disassemble the drum and unbolt it. And cut what needs to be cut.
Would that work the same?
I heard sum people say with the little shop kit they either have to pull or cut. By the looks of you kit its seems the same process. For me cutting would be a bit easier.
I originally wanted the Little Shop kit because it did not require pulling the rear axles. Once i got into it, I found both rear axle seals leaking and had to pull them anyway to replace the axle seals. This made it easier to also remove the drum brake backing plate as well without having to cut it.
@laurencevillegarage I understand thank you so much 🙏🏽🙏🏽for the responce have a blessed day.
Great build, love it. I'm trying to find the upper shock mount you used. I can't find it at all. I thought you said it was a belltech part. I just can't fi d it. Any part numbers and who to buy from would would be great.
I had a hard time finding it as well. Only found it on Ebay by accident. Here is the info with link. I installed it in video #9 with the rear suspension rebuild. Belltech 88-98 Chevrolet Silverado/Sierra 1/2 Ton Upper Shock Mount Shock Ext $65.00
www.ebay.com/itm/291664924411?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338791547&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
@@laurencevillegarage thanks. I will check it out.
What do you have to do for the master cylinder or proportioning valve to make the rear disc brakes work correctly?
I added a NBS 2001 master cylinder from a Suburban. They are made for 4 wheel disc brake trucks. You can use this type of m/c or use a proportioning valve to get the correct front to rear balance.
Any update videos?
They are coming, had some other priorities come up but will be back on track shorty. Thanks for asking.
@@laurencevillegarage @ new subscriber here,,, 👍👍👍
I'm in the process of bolting on the aluminum calipers off the rear of a Camaro Z28-early 90's I believe. Will the Little Shop brackets put the calipers in the correct location?
I have not seen them so I really do not know. Any idea how they compare to the mid late 80's Cadillac calipers?
Do you do any work for customers ?
At the moment, I don't. Once the new shop is built, I will be in a better position to do so. Thank you for asking.
You got all the links for part please
In all the videos for the 1991 truck, a list of parts, prices and links to those items used are listed below the video in the description area. You will only find the breakdown of parts for a specific area with that video. But, all info is listed.
Great video, as for the hard lines with the fittings I'm not able to find 3/8 with that small of a fitting
Is the fitting diameter 3/8 or the diameter of the brake line?
@@ItsFreshDough I’m afraid I don’t remember. I took my caliper brake lines and the junction block that mounts on the rear end housing with me to be sure I had the correct size line and fittings.
@@laurencevillegarage 3/8 line or 1/4?
@@ItsFreshDough 1/4
you can keep the 15 rims or you have to change them for bigger ones
I went with these parts so I could run my 15” rims. With that said, I did have to grind a little bit on the ends of the calipers to clear wheel weights. It is a close fit. The wheels I used were 15x7 torq thrust copies. A stock steel rim would probably have more clearance. But then you could not see the brakes.
Thank you very much for your reply, your videos have helped me a lot.
Great video. I did mine last summer with a rear sway bar. What are your special shock relocation brackets are you running? I’m guessing they make you shocks a little more vertical from the looks. I have the shock extenders on the axle but like the others you have as well. I did my sway bar from a 99 Denali.
The upper shock relocation brackets are made by Bell Tech. I wasn't looking for them when I found them, I like them better. And, the angle is more vertical, which is good. The sway bar I am working with is from a '01 Suburban. Thanks for the comments!
Did u mean 3/16 hard lines?
The hard lines were 3/16", the fittings thread size were 3/8", I'm sorry for the confusion.
Got an update? How well does the parking brake work
As an update, the parking brake works just fine. The key to rear braking performance and the parking brake is to properly adjust the pads at installation. There is a specific method to doing this on that style of caliper. The info is available online from a variety of sources. As to the performance, even adjusted properly there is not a noticeable performance difference. I believe this has to do with the small size brakes used to fit within a 15” wheel space. There is probably more surface area for braking with a pair of shoes than these relatively small pads. Now, if you were to increase the size of rotor/caliper to fit within, say 17-18” wheels, I feel like that would be a difference you will notice. The disc definitely look better…bottom line, I personally don’t feel the looks/difference in braking are worth the $$ outlay for the small size to fit the 15” wheel. One problem I did have was that I needed to grind a couple areas on the top of the caliper for clearance of the wheel. IF you run your wheel weights on the inside of the rim, you must be very careful to place them where they are not in the path of the caliper. Or else, they will get knocked off and/or scraped along the inside of the wheel. This happened to me with aftermarket rims. Thanks for asking.
What year of Cadillac did the calipers come off of and who makes the mounting brackets
mid-late 1980's rear disc equipped cars...deville's and eldorado even buick reatta's.
R u sure that it's a 9/16 hole it doesn't look that big ?
If you are referring to the holes in the rear disc rotors, the original hole was not 9/16", it had to be opened up to that size. The next pic showed the rotor installed. But yes, that is a 9/16" hole.
I can smell gear oil while watching this video.
Can't you just swap the entire rear axle from a newer truck?
Nope, the width is different and suspension mounting points are all different.
Hey where you able to run the 15inch stock wheels?
Yes I was, you do need to be careful of where you put wheel weights on at. On a steel wheel they would be on the rim, and that's fine. On an aftermarket wheel where you might put them on the inside, you need to be careful they are not in the path of the caliper. The fit is tight and if a wheel weight is in the way, it will knock it off.
Thanks for the feedback, i appreciate it it!!
Are the calipers you used OEM?
Yes they are.
Do you mind sharing what year make and model they're off of?
Check the information in the description below the video, I listed everything involved in the swap with prices (at that time).
What was the total finished cost? Do you have a list of the AC DELCO part numbers? Where did you get the mounting brackets? Very informative video by the way!!🤠👍
Check out the info in the description below the video, I put in all information including links and cost. Thanks for watching!
E-bay has those brackets,u know all those kits r the same but the rotors r the ones that r different u need the 94-96 Chevrolet 11"rotors then u drill the holes to 9/16" and that's it.
Hi.
I'm looking into changing my 1994 & 1997 (both 4x4 with 6 lugs) into rear Disk.
Being far from the USA, I have a problem finding parts.
My Q is, if I buy this kit, which car's Disk, pads & calipers will fit?
Thanks in advance
I have not done this to a 4x4, however, Cunninghammachine.com, is where I sourced my brackets and list of parts to use for the swap. Check them out, they have what you need, but it is a different part than what I used.
what year era did those impala rotors come off of ?… wanting to do slotted rotors with this setup
and also do you know what whats the biggest size i can run on the rotors
The rotors are from mid 90’s Impala SS. To run larger rotors, you would need different brackets. Those brackets are made to run that size calipers and rotors. I wanted something that would fit within a 15” wheel.
Did you have to change the master cilinder?
I did swap my master cylinder over to a NBS (01 suburban) style. You don’t have to, but, if you do not, you will need a proportioning valve to adjust your f/r bias.
Friend, where can I get the adapter plates? I looked for it in your list of things but they are no longer available to me very well explained!
Contact CunninghamMachine.com
@@laurencevillegarage Thank you, any advice?, I want to use the old transmission of my truck that is a cheyenne 1993 4.3 tbi, I want to put a 5.3 vortec 2002, are the connectors of the transmission the same or do they change?
@@carlosiramhernandez9103 it all depends on whether you have a manual transmission or automatic. either way, you will need the appropriate LS flywheel or flex plate. If it’s an automatic transmission, using the correct dished flex plate and a spacer will allow you to mount your original transmission up to the 5.3. If you have a manual transmission, then you just need the appropriate flywheel for a 2000 to 2004, 4.8 or 6.0. For the clutch assembly, just get a matching clutch for the flywheel combination.
@@laurencevillegarage I have an automatic transmission, it's the original 4l60, so I just need the spacer?
@@carlosiramhernandez9103and dished flexplate.
Why not use the Caprice/Impala backing plates/caliper bracket s?
I don’t know if that would work or not. There are a number of kits available that fit the passenger car 10 bolt rear but say won’t fit trucks. Not sure why or what is different. These brackets were made for this. You may be able to source a set of the SS parts and see if they fit. I’m sure there are other ways to do this, this is one way.
That’s what I was thinking, wonder if that would work?
Awesome video. I'm always looking for alternatives. Cheaper then paying out the nose for packaging. When you have kids or like me they start coming out more then one at a time twins. You look for cheaper ways for everything. O An drink lots of coffeeeeeeee.
Thank you for the + comments. I have 2 grown daughters, I remember the “dry” times as well. I had to slow down but if forced me to get creative if I wanted to play with cars. Good luck w your projects.
Does this apply to an 89 gmc k1500 extended cab? Where can i get a full kit? 😅 any help appreciated
Still wanting to use your 15" wheels, you have several options...a couple of companies offer kits, or you could do what I did in this video and buy the brackets and order all the separate stuff. OR, if you have a larger budget, get some bigger brakes as well. Search the internet, you will find other companies and what they offer. Just make sure they are made for your application.
@Laurenceville Garage I've got 16 inch wheels, any company you'd suggest for a kit?
didn't see a pn for the caliper bracket. did i miss something?
The caliper bracket comes w the caliper. Then that attaches to the custom made bracket.
Where did u get the shock mount s?
I got them off eBay, made and sold by Belltech.
What year is your truck? I have a '96 with a 350 and a stick. I've been thinking about doing the disc brake conversion for my truck so I've watch a few different conversions on UA-cam. The emergency brake would be a problem for me because the cable is gone, although I do have a replacement, the 96's require two cables that some how split off at the drivers side rear wheel, so I'll need to sort that out. Also, when you cut that e-brake cable did you add a drop of plumber's solder in back of the stop incase the screw losens. It kind of looks like you did to finish the cable end up.
The truck is a ‘91. Nope, I cut it too short and had to buy a replacement for that part of the emergency brake set up. I did learn to adjust the rear calipers so that he pads fit correctly just making contact with the rotor. If you don’t adjust them properly to begin with, you will have to remove the calipers, pull the piston and adjust. It wasn’t hard, I wish I had done it in the very beginning. Next time I won’t cut the excess cable until I know the brakes and emergency brake feature works first!
How do your brake feel wen was done
The brakes feel good. However, I can’t say I find a big difference than with dorms. Maybe because of their size. I think had I gone with larger disc/rotors I would feel a bigger difference.
Awesome video I had one question was buying everything separately worth it or would you just go with a little shops kit
Good question. If you want rear discs and just want to “get it done” and you have the extra resources, then go with the LittleShop kit. If you are tight on $ and/or you have the time and enjoy making stuff work (which is me) then go with the brackets and make your own kit. Do shop the rear calipers w parking brake feature, they are getting more expensive as time goes by. Depending on where you find them and how much, you may decide to go with a readily available kit. Performance is about the same IMO.
@@laurencevillegarage ok that helps because I have always wanted to do this in my 98 c1500 but didn’t know witch was better but because my schedule is kind of tight I may end up doing the kid at little shops even though I would love to build my own like how you did in the video
what's your opinion on doing the conversion the way you did in the video versus getting a kit from Little shop?
It will depend on how you use the truck. Honestly, if you run 15’s and the rest of the braking system is stock, it will look better…but braking performance won’t change much. The stock rear drums actually have more brake pad/shoe surface area than the small rear disc pads. This is just my opinion. If you upgrade to bigger brakes, yes there is a noticeable difference, otherwise you can use the $ on other areas. I won’t do 15” rear disc anymore, just not a good performance vs. cost/labor ratio. Now if you really want the look, piecing the rear together is more steps, but quite satisfying to perform and the cost is not bad, at least less than other kits available.
@@laurencevillegarage Thanks for your response. If I decide to do it myself, your parts list and video will make it a lot easier! Thanks for the great information.
Hi, great job explaining in detail. You mentioned that you won’t do 15” rear disk anymore? So for this exact setup what can you use? My son just order all the parts to work on his 1997 c1500
Where did you get the upper shock mounts?
They are bell tech products. Check out eBay, that is where I found them.
Do they make this exact same set-up for the Big Boy 14 Bolt that came in the 1990 454SS? I see this is the little brother 10 bolt.
Check this site out....cunninghammachine.com/chevy-and-gmc/obs-1988-1998/brake/ hope that answers your question.
Donde puedo conseguir los brackets ?
Jorge, check out the information below the video, I listed all my sources and links to the products I used for the swap. consulte la información debajo del video, enumeré todas mis fuentes y enlaces a los productos que usé para el intercambio.
Nice work sir what kit is this or part number...thanks you sir
This was not a kit. Check the information below the video for all the details, I have all the links, part #'s and prices paid (at the time).
@Laurenceville Garage oh ok 👍 thank you so much Mr
Awesome job😅
Thank you so much 😀
Do you know what rotors would work with a k1500 with 6 lugs?
You would need to go to the Cunningham machine website and look at the correct brackets for your application. The brackets I used are for a C1500. Since a list of parts is listed with the brackets, I would bet the rotors you need would be listed with the correct brackets.
@@laurencevillegarage thank you for the swift reply, I will take a look hopefully I’ll find what I need👍
@@Lou_sassel315 did you find anything out about the rotors for the 6 lug trucks
If your truck is a 4wd you can use brakes from a 99 and up truck. The front is a little more labor intensive but well worth it. There's plenty of videos on it.
Will this kit work on a Chevy van?
It is not a kit, I bought the brackets from Cunningham Machine and they supplied a list of parts that would fit that I would have to find on my own. But, to answer your question, it the rear in the van is the same 10" drum brake as the trucks, then it should. Call Cunningham Machine or check out their website for specifics to your project.
What make model are the break caliper's out of ? I want to get one without the parking break
Search 1979-1985 Buick Riviera, or Cadillac Eldorado, 80-85 Seville, 79-85 Toronado. The calipers without the parking brake feature are much cheaper.
@@laurencevillegarage are they front or rear calipers for any of those cars
@@CrossSphere there are both available. The “non emergency brake” versions are a lot cheaper.
@@CrossSphere they all used to be cheaper, but the calipers are getting older and I guess some people have realized what they are being used for and the prices have gone up. Supply and demand.
You know you can use an old soup can cut the top off and put it over the seal
Found it/ For tha v8 the drums are 11" right
That may be correct, the last 2 I’ve worked on were both V6 trucks. It’s been too long since I did rear brakes on a V8 to remember, don’t want to tell you false information.
How much does the kit cost
This was not a pre-packaged kit. I purchased the brackets from Cunningham Machine. When you buy their brackets, they provide a list of all the parts you need. You have to source where to buy and how much you want to pay. Check out the information below the video, I listed all the details there.
@@laurencevillegarage where is cunningham machine located
Nice 👍
Thank you
Do They sale them for a 97 4X4 ? HOPE YOU CAN ANSWER
Yes, there are kits for your truck. LittleShop manufacturing makes a good one. However, I am not familiar with a “cheaper” diy kit and parts.
Love your videos,
What make and model are the rotors out of? I see the part# but would like to know the vehicle to see if I can find them drilled and slotted.
thank you in advance!!
Thank you, The rotors are for a ‘96 Impala SS.
I drilled them out no problem - just make sure you stand on the disc otherwise it will sprain your wrist when the drill catches!
I duggest you re-route your emergency brake line from inbetween the leaf spring and frame. Doesn't seem logical or practical.
That is how the factory does it. You would not want to run it below the leaf and can’t run it above the frame. There is a gap between the spring and frame. The spring is not directly below the frame so it is not sandwiched between them. Do you have an OBS? How would you run the cables?
Can you plz list all the parts … i have 97 Chevy Silverado , so I can do it myself
Read the description below the video, I listed all the parts I used plus links to everything.
Will this setup work for a 1974 gmc sierra 4x4?
I don’t think so. However, check Cunningham machine, they make brackets for other applications, yours may be one of them.
What about cost? We all know how to do it, buy a kit but U said you were doing a video about COST. U SAID U were gonna list parts! Come on man
I did list a complete breakdown of all that information below the video in the description.
Heck Yeah U did. Don't know how I missed that 😕 Thanks alot
love the GM OBS truck ,I still drive my1991 GMC single cab shorty box rebuilt last year , it was cheaper to restore then buy new , and more dependable ,well done sir. what she looks like now,ua-cam.com/video/-BDUuHcDqW4/v-deo.html
you dont have to remove axles, just cut the plate off the truck
True, my axle seals were leaking anyway…so they got pulled.
Yeah, yeah the 1500 series is stupid simple to convert. Show me 2500-3500 conversion.
I have plans (in the future) to mod a 2500. It can be done, but the majority of modified sport trucks are 1500's. 2500's are a smaller piece of pie. I have a K2500 as well as a c1500. I hear ya!