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While I am able to remove the VATS and rear O2 sensors, that's where I draw the line. I am not familiar with the finer details of the tune like you want. I would suggest a tuner that can ride in your truck with you and dial it in exactly the way you want. It will be more expensive, but will give you more of what you want. Thanks for the opportunity.

Double check this info out to make sure it is correct for your year Wrangler....Mopar Fluid Temperature Sensor 68164627AA

@laurencevillegarage thanks I went to Napa, Autozone, and Advance, and all 3 only showed the one you showed to be oil temp sensor for a 2012.

@@ThisTimeIsDifferent309I believe there was a change in 2014. Mopar shows this number and style for 14-24.

Glad it was helpful!

It has been done, however, I have not done that swap. It is different from the 2wd with the front differential. The engine would need to set up a bit higher and possible offset to the passenger side a bit.

Thank you for watching the video...at least 1:27 part of it. I do encourage constructive criticism so we can all learn from UA-cam. I don't think it is fair to only watch a small part of the video and make your assessment. I did not say that the problem can only be solved by replacing the steering box. The box is only 1 part of the steering system. As the title implied, I was showing how to replace part of the steering shaft, which is a part of that system which contains the "rag joint" which is an obvious wear part within that system. It was never intended to be a "cheap fix" for a steering box issue. There is no 1 single part that will fix all issues in the steering system or any other system that has multiple components within it. You obviously have experience, why not make a video(s) helping to dispel the "miss education" on the internet. I am not being a "smart ass", knowledge is power and yours can be an asset to others. Thanks again.

That I did not try, so I cannot say for certain that would work. You may be able to, try it and see. Let us know if that works.

@@ronw5476 thank you, and good luck w your Firebird!

@@thorntonfamily I did not. The bushing is in very tight and I had not noticed others being crimped. I understand the rationale for it, but found little information about that.

@@thorntonfamily thank you very much for the support! Good luck with your project!

@@user-tu7rr1zg4b thanks for watching the video, hope it helped you in some way.

@@tomhayes6920 thank you!

@@laurencevillegarage the grey wire under the fuel relay. Do you remember what one to hook it to?

To answer for both your questions....you can find the wire you need on your brake switch located at the top of your brake pedal. You can use a test light to see which wire has power when applying the brake and which has power without doing so. If your truck has abs, check the purple wire on the front of the abs module. You can use your test light to find that one the same way as the brake switch.

I apologize for the delay in my response. A factory GM electrical manual for your year truck is very affordable on Ebay and is extremely helpful. For the speedometer, I spliced the vss OBS wires with the vss wires from the LS engine harness and that worked for me. Depending on your year, it may or may not. The tach was easy. On the OBS harness, there is a plug that attaches to the coil that has a white wire within the harness that is not used that is very close to the coil. I used that for the tach signal.

I've never put a thermometer on the vent, but it's cold.

While I never put a thermometer on the vent, I have had no issues.

Thanks for watching. I don't mind criticism if it is constructive and helpful....so, what's the issue?

You can, but it is not necessary. The bed is not that heavy.

I finished the frame yesterday before sundown. I couldn't find a wood chisel. But the little storage wheels I used a 5/16 big bolt and did it directly to frame. Can I do that as well with the main casters? Bolt it directly on? Or is the 2x6 base w carriage bolt necessary for strength? I was about to skip the base and bolt it directly w a 5/16 bolt & lock not. Will it be same strength? This was my 1st wood project EVER 😂 Thanks for the video

​@@laurencevillegarageBTW I made the length 6 feet long, 3.5 feet wide. Seems sturdy or do I need to add a center support and wheel? My Gaylords tonneau cover is super heavy. 4 people kind of struggle.. maybe time for a new lighter one.

Sure, you can make it 5 feet. That won’t hurt anything. The best investment will be in good casters. Don’t get crappy ones. I got mine at Northern tool, I think the set of four was around $75 or so . My wheels are 4 inches in diameter, and they work well. However, 5 inch or even 6 inch wheels would roll easier. The frame will support the weight. I can’t remember if I mentioned it in the video, but I added a piece of plywood to the top, making it a bit of a deck or, moving workbench. Comes in really handy for other projects as well.

@@cybergrindin I used a 2 x 6 and cut four pieces that were basically square. Mounted those into the corners you can use lag bolts to hold the caster on. Or, without using a chisel, you can just find a large drillbit say about 1 inch and drill a hole about, a quarter of an inch deep this will allow you to drill a hole through that and counter sink the head of that bolt so that you can attach your caster and then put your lock washers and nuts on. That’s what I did.

Typically it is suggested to replace the thermostat at the same time. That is what I did.

Yes, it is oil temp sensor. On some years, it is same sensor size as coolant sensor.

There are a couple parts, but I don't think it would be worth it. None of the parts are $$...having said that, the price on calipers has gone up. The fronts are plentiful, but the rears (which have the parking brake) are harder to find. Rockauto's least expensive rear caliper w/core is $68.79 (looking at an '86 Eldorado/Seville/Toronado). You would have to balance the additional work to round up all the individual parts and your time vs. a kit. You may find the kit a better alternative. Having said that (driving the truck a while now), if you really want a noticeable braking difference, either upgrade your drums to better components or go to a larger rear disc brake. The larger rear brake will mean you can't use the 15" wheel. I believe you actually have less braking contact surface with the small rear disc set up. The drums offer more surface contact. The discs always look better, but in the 15" size don't offer better stopping power for the $ IMO.

No issues here.

The truck came stock with a front bar, no rear bar.

Usually a purple wire. Runs from ignition switch to solenoid.

On the blue '95 truck, (DBC) the original cruise control unit is the same as the 1999-2001 or so truck unit that is DBC. Only real difference is the length of the cable from the unit to the throttle body. So, simply swapping the 2001 unit bolted in place and the newer cable is the correct length to fit to the throttle body. The factory electrical connection plugs right into the newer cc unit. That's it. On the white '91, it is now BDW. This can be adapted to the original wiring. Check lt1swap.com for details on connecting that up. It's not hard to do. The factory switch can be made to continue to work.

@@laurencevillegarage morning, I also did the same thing, used the unit from the 2000 Silverado in place of my 88's unit. It didn't work and I believe it was associated with the speedometer. I installed the speed wire off of the PCM and it still isn't working. I'll have to start tracing the wiring to solve this issue. Thank you for replying and have a wonderful day.

Before starting the motor, disconnect the upper hose from the radiator. Hold it up and pour about 3/4 gallon coolant/water in. Enough to still reconnect to radiator without spilling any. This will put enough fluid on the backside of the thermostat so it will function properly. Once the thermostat opens and coolant is flowing, you can add to top it off.

I can imagine. When checking for correct sensor on my '15, I checked on Rockauto. In the coolant sensor section it shows 2 thread sizes and specifies location as either cylinder head or oil filter on most, but not all part numbers. One is a coolant temp sensor, the other is an oil temp sensor. This information shows to be correct for my '15 Wrangler. In looking at your '12 model, it indeed does show the same sensor used for both locations. Be sure when purchasing a sensor, its location is specified. Otherwise, it is easy to buy the "wrong" sensor without first removing your existing sensor to check its thread base.

Thank you, I'm glad you found it helpful.

Thanks for the visit!

That is how the factory does it. You would not want to run it below the leaf and can’t run it above the frame. There is a gap between the spring and frame. The spring is not directly below the frame so it is not sandwiched between them. Do you have an OBS? How would you run the cables?

I did break one as well, just had to be patient and work at it.

The “Y” pipe from the NBS does not fit the OBS. I had hopes in the beginning it would but no. If you use a pipe kit like I did, it’s not bad. The first 2 I made, I was crawling under the truck about 40-50 times…I’m sure that’s an exaggeration, but it was a lot of work. Also, the swag base for my band saw was a huge help. Now I have a lift. It’s hard to do without these 2 items, but it can be done.

I did not, just used the crush style washer with it. No issues, no leaks.

@@laurencevillegarage great, thanks, by the way awesome video.

I added a NBS 2001 master cylinder from a Suburban. They are made for 4 wheel disc brake trucks. You can use this type of m/c or use a proportioning valve to get the correct front to rear balance.

No overheating, I had a code P0128. Everything about it seemed to point to the thermostat, but, in nearly all cases it was suggested to replace the temp sensor as well. With the sensor being inexpensive and having to drain my coolant anyway to change the thermostat, it was a no brainer. And yes, my issue was solved.

Thank you, hope it helped!