Legend!! I have just been looking at getting myself a 12v setup but didn’t know where to start. Now I can just follow this video step by step. Would love to see a video on how a inverter would connect up to this setup
G'day Adam, Ideally you'd connect your inverter directly to the battery (with a fuse on the positive lead) so you can run the shortest possible wires and prevent voltage drop. You could use the internal posts on the battery box to connect your inverter - connect red to the aux battery post and black to the negative post and it would work, but if you were planning on running any high power tools or appliances, you'd likely want to increase the wire diameter running from your aux battery to the posts in the box to cope with the extra load! keep an eye out though as this is something I'll add to my list! Cheers for watching and shooting through a comment, Cahn
I never had to connect my DC-DC charger to ignition for it to work (no smart alternator to worry about), and it didn't have a plethora of wires to hard-wire battery type. Mine had a push button selector for battery type. I have moved this unit into my caravan now as I have installed a DC-DC MPPT device into the car - this charges the house battery from solar or alternator (no ign wire needed) and when full it charges the start battery as well. The van is simply connected with anderson plugs and decent cable.
I would love a video on how to custom make that carpeted wood panel and fix it into position. Any chance of a video on that? I love this setup looks perfect! 👍🏿
Great bit of kit. It would be a lot better if you supplied the charger with longer wires on the heavy gauge wire. At least an extra foot/30cm of wire. Also supply the crimp ends and the crimps to extend/join the longer cables.
G'day Andrew - Definitely something I'm pushing for mate! Would've made my job a lot easier too on this install... Thanks for taking the time to watch and shoot through your feedback! Much appreciated! Cheers, Cahn
@@4wdsupacentreAu Thanks for the prompt reply. My thinking is that a lot of people wont want to spend an additional 45-50 dollars on a crimping tool, (which will put a lot of people off buying this unit) just to extend those two heavier cables. Most people are capable of joining/extending thinner cables and they will find it easier to find the thinner gauge wire. Personally i know i can get lugs to extend the heavy gauge cables but they are not readily available to most people. That additional cost 45-50 dollars for a crimping too might make people look at other suppliers, which would be a real shame because your DC-DC charger is brilliant bit of kit. When you consider the two extra 30cm wires will only add a dollar to your build cost. P.s Keep up the great work.
2 years later nothing has been changed tho they added Anderson plugs .... retailer told me today if you cut the plug off to pass through hole then that avoids warranty.... why not make the control box to accommodate the wires with correct lengths and lugs.... ...I read these comments of 2 years ago and nothing has changed ....went in today prepared to buy up whole set up and it altered my decision to purchase.... not only that the sales staff were very hesitant on how it worked at all.... you need to train your staff .... lost a good 1.5k sale because of these problems
Just an observation. I've watched a heap of 12v 2nd battery install vids last 2 weeks. Everyone uses the word "battery" when referring to "this red wire attaches here to the +, or the black wire goes here to the -" without defining WHICH battery they're referring too! The vehicle main battery OR 2nd battery mounted on the 4x4 tray or box trailer. Most people could possibly know what you're explaining and fill in the gaps, I'll admit l don't follow everything. I saw on a web page today where a person uploaded a pic of his system drawn on paper in red and black pen representing the wires, that was very informative. Sadly l can't upload it. That's be great if you could provide something similar, sketching the Control Box, Battery Monitor, DCDC Charger, Main Battery, 2nd Battery, Inline Fuse Placement, where each wire goes the wire gauge and fuse size/placement etc etc. Even include the the wire gauge for different applications. E.G. Min 8 B&S gauge Black & Red wire from Vehicle Battery (to the KINGS control box) E.G. 2mm can be used for all LED lighting. Don't assume everyone does know. Has Adventure Kings contemplated running workshops for 12v second battery installs at one of their outlets??? Say 8 - 12 vehicles at a time with a nominal fee especially if the individual purchased all Adventure Kings 12v systems, with some freebies, discounted accessories on the day/night etc. Even 12v question/answer evenings? Just thinking outside the square. Sorry for the long post. Anyway, thank you for your vids, really enjoy them. Cheers
Love the install you have done, but would also have like to have seen the basic install using the DC-DC charger with a AGM battery in the Battery Box I purchased from $WD Supacentre as I basically have this kit. To be honest a little lost now due to the fact I do not have the 12 Volt Control Box. Appreciate any help and suggestions were to purchase the optional accessories and tools would also be very helpful in the description.
Before installing this setup i noticed you had a boxed panel to attached the unit and battery to. Do you have any information/videos going through the building and installation of this?
Thanks I know how to install a DC-DC charger, but what is it? I have an isolator from start battery to aux deep cycle battery. I bought all my 12 volt gear (bat box 138 AGM, solar blanket and associated gear that go for with it from Kings, but the guys never told me that I needed a DC-DC Charger.
Great video, I don't have the solar cable with my dcdc charger. Can I just connect that cable grey lithium cable straight to the positive inside the box?
Firstly, thanks for these great vids. I have seen on one of your videos a DCDC charger and battery monitor both mounted to the control box, but can’t find a video showing the wiring within? Any hints, or a video detailing this I’m missing?
Hey Cl4rky, I'm hearing you mate! A fair few people are telling me they'd love a pre-wired one, so it's on my list and I'm looking into it - for the moment though, hopefully this helps! Cheers, Cahn
@@4wdsupacentreAu unreal, looks like a great bit of gear but for those who aren’t too electronically minded or hands on a pre wired option would be epic
@@4wdsupacentreAu Gday cahn, what size fuse did you use on the cable from the main to aux battery? And also what size fuse would you recommend for your 1500w inverter, and should you connect the inverter straight to the aux battery or into the switch box?
@@4wdsupacentreAu if you are running the ignition wire with an fuse adapter to the cars fuse box do you still have to fuse the wire or is the one in the video with fuse added for if your not going into fuse box cheers
You get voltage drop,or youll get excess heat, you only want the wires to be the length you want plu some room for a repair and a bit of slack, typically a hand width.
Hi Beno, You're right - it would make things easier and it's something I'm looking into... no plans to release yet but I'm working on it, so hopefully this helped in the meantime! Cheers, Cahn
Great VDO i have done this set up thanks very much. My question is that I have a camper trailer which has more battery on it do i need to add charger to it??
I agree, why wouldn’t you make the wire the correct length? If someone wanted to mount it further away then they could lengthen the wires to suit them.
thank you for sharing your detailed video as great watching all time. ask you what working with a 24v power system in a big truck and want to run the 12v dc to dc unit?
Hi there, Although we don't have the exact size used in this video available, with all cable matching if you measure the diameter you can then match this against an online search to find the AWG rating of the cable which the maximum capacity will also match the fuse size! Cheers, Courtney
Hi there, Thank you for the question, I can advise that it's added for accessibility reasons and helps stop having gear moving around while on the go, but also keeping that space behind open for storing whatever gear you need in your day-to-day. Regards, Andrew
Hey mate, I don't have any plans or a video on it unfortunately - I just knocked it up the day before with some ply wood and marine carpet. It's a vertical piece of ply with two horizontal sections - the main shelf you see in the video (which has a couple of 45° supports underneath) and a top hat that encloses the box. I also put an end cap on the headboard end of the unit to box it in. I sized it so that it fit over the width of the drawer wings and doesn't interfere with the fridge slide, and I made the main shelf high enough that you can slide a battery underneath. it's mounted to the bottom corners with L brackets, and the top corners use straight twist brackets (90° Twist) to fasten to the internal bracing in the canopy. If i did it again I would've added some low dividers on the main shelf to prevent gear sliding around - we use the control box to charge batteries, cameras, phones etc and it'd be nice to keep them in the one place! Cheers, Cahn
@@4wdsupacentreAu I am also interested in this set up. Would love to see some photos if possible. Also, why place it on the passenger side? Would it be better for visibility on the drivers side?
@@GregSharkey Unfortunately as I said I didn't film actually knocking up the enclosure but it wasn't too tough! You're right regarding visibility, but generally we have our camp set up on the passenger side, so if you're pulling up on the side of a track to check something or have lunch, you're on the safe side of the vehicle. Cheers, Cahn
Is it possible to have an Anderson plug from the control box going to the spare battery (with the same plug on the other end) so that you don't always carry the spare battery if you don't need it, but when you do, you just plug it in and off you go?
cCan you do a video on wiring the dcdc charger AND the battery monitor to the control box in the one video please. I am lost as to weather the yellow and green wires connect to the same binding past as the brown wire or does the whole configuration have to change.. seeing how this is done would be a massive help. cheers
Hey great video, if you were using a wiring kit that has terminal on one end and then Anderson’s plug on the other where would you plug the Anderson plug and would that change where you wire the dcdc charger?
Hi cahn, help please. Once you’ve fixed the dc charger on to the board how do you fix the board into the canopy of the vehicle on the headboard. Thanks Ian
Great video Looks easy to set up. If i have this set up would there be any issue with me removing the aux battery and just connecting it on weekends i'm going camping Cheers
I’m considering a circuit breaker between the dc to dc charger and the house battery. What is your opinion on this and if you would do it, what orientation should the breaker be set up - what should connect to the battery side of the circuit breaker and what connects to aux? PS this is a stand alone system that has no starter battery involved.
Sorry new to all this. I don’t understand what the gang switch and the bus bar (preassumbled on the control box) are for. Doesnt an inverter need to be attached between the marine battery and your appliances you intend to run? If so why are gang switches and a bus bar needed?
Hey! Awesome video really helped in the install of this in my van, thanks! I have a question: Straight after I installed this dual battery system into my van (VW transporter T5 2014, with smart alternator), 2 engine warning lights came on the dash. I’ve check the alternator in the van and the main van battery using a multimeter and both are testing up as normal. I’ve definitely connected the ignition (blue) wire into a positive ignition power source. Does anyone has some insight into this? Thanks heaps! 😊
Which warning lights are they? It could be from disconnecting the Battery while you were connecting everything… Alternatively your particular model may have a current sensor on the negative terminal of the battery which you’ve unintentionally bypassed by connecting the DCDC wiring directly to the battery. If that’s the case, connecting the negative lead to a body earth NEAR the battery terminal can solve it! Might be worth doing some searching to see if other people have had a similar issue.. It could also be a coincidence… which has definitely happened to me before when I fixed something and an unrelated part broke the next day haha Cheers, Cahn
I used all of this to set up my new ute the only thing that I would have liked was the gauge of all the additional wires and the amps of all the fuses that was used . I also have a dmax and had a engine light come on after the install. I have had it cleared as it was a egr loss of signal. I’m hoping it was just because I had the fuse out while I was searching for the right one . Has any body else had that happen?
Great video thanks I know I’m a bit late. But I have a question. Would everything you’ve done there be a great way to earth your wires. I always thought you ran aux,dcdc,solar all to a good chassis ground.
Hi there, The DC to DC charger has earth cables on each of the Anderson plugs & you always need to earth the AUX battery, whether that be direct to the vehicle or back to the main battery. Regards, Courtney
If you were to use both the quick connect plugs on the front as solar input how would you go about that? Cause I’m currently putting one together and I’m gonna have one that will always be solar but I’ve also got a foldable solar panel that I’ll set up from time to time at camp
Great vid. Just like the rest of them. Great work. The small black cable to battery you told us not to cut. What do I do with that if it doesn’t reach my battery? Cheers.
@@lachlanlucas6333 I ended up using a yellow female spade, and just cut some of the copper wires off the solar cable to make it thinner until it fit, been working perfect so far
Theoretically - could I connect all this up to my caravan, (no 12v set up at all) and have an Anderson plug at the towball for the truck battery area? How would I do the blue wire though?
Hi there, I know of a few customers who have, though I don't have the specifics to hand for how they set up, with that said we would recommend an extension of the ignition cable on its own circuit however. Regards, Andrew
I'm wondering where you get the in-line joiners for the larger wires. I can't seem to find them anywhere. Mainly up to 6mm is readily available. I'd appreciate your feedback on this.
Hey guys. the 2 quick connects on the control box. I have a few questions obviously one is set up for solar input. With the other quick connect. Can I run my cable from my starter battery into the Quick connect instead of what you did in this vid? you guys had the pre made cable with the anderson on the end. I presume it was for that reason? if that was the case. Am I able to have both of them plugged in at the same time. Cheers
I am not using a 12v control box. So to what do I connect they type of battery cable (grey, orange, yellow or white) - the video doesn't make it clear. Do I connect the type of battery cable to the positive cable coming from the car battery?
This is a fantastic guide. The one thing I'm confused about is why you used 2 different different red/positive terminals. It looks like your bcdc runs to one red terminal. That terminal appears to run to your fuse block and also to your aux battery as well. I assume this is because this path is where your bcdc sends power to your aux battery and the aux battery sends power to the fuse block and onto your dc loads. It looks like your main battery power runs to your second positive terminal, which then runs into your bcdc. This path appears to be where power is going into the dcdc. What is the reason for not running your starter battery power to the 1 terminal that connects to your fuse block, dcdc and aux battery? Would that essentially bypas the dcdc and cause the aux battery to drain the starter battery at all times since there is now a path to it that doesnt cross through the dcdc?
With the blue smart wire, I’m trying to find a fuse that is off when the power is off but only the lights fuse fits this recommendation. But then I only get a charge when the lights are on. Will this be ok? My car is a Mitsubishi triton Mh model
I’m running dual AGMs under the bonnet but want to add a LiFePO4 battery in the bed of my truck. Is it possible to add the third battery to this setup? Also, is this setup weatherproof enough to mount inside the bed of my truck? Thanks
Depends on your car mate. if its a new model with a smart alternator you will need it. Kickass (Australian direct) sell a wiring kit that has an Anderson plug with 3 connectors. This would make it easier for you when you disconnect your trailer from your car.
im not currently going with solar ( very basic build )so if i dont connect the orange wire like how its been shown in the video, would the orange go to the positive terminal in the box if not where would i then connect it ?
I'm getting ready to install this exact setup in my new Hilux and my deep cycle battery is already in a battery box. Can I terminate one end of the cables going to the deep cycle battery, in an Anderson plug so I can just plug it straight into the battery box? Cheers
That's correct! DC-DC Chargers typically work as isolators either with a starter battery voltage trigger or the ignition trigger. With this unit you can choose either by connecting the ignition wire or leaving it disconnected. Cheers, Cahn
Another great informative video. I have a MQ Triton Dual Cab and would love to have a 2nd batter setup in the rear tray. Where do you get the grey boarding from that I see in nearly all of the vehicle setup videos ?
Hey looking at ordering this dcdc with solar built in. I already have your dual battery kit can I install this dcdc charger and leave the dual battery kit still in the car? Thanks
Hey Donovan, Typically we install these in conjunction with a 12V control box (like in the video) or a battery box that both have the built in LCD screen to see voltage. in the past I've installed a bunch along with a battery monitor that gives you battery voltage, % stae of charge as well as current (amps) in and out. while it'd be nice to have a screen, a lot of people hide their DC-DC charger away, where you woudn't see it anyway. That's why a separate or remote screen is a good idea! There are plenty out there, but this is the Kings Battery monitor / ammeter / low voltage disconnect: www.4wdsupacentre.com.au/kings-12v-battery-monitor-easy-diy-install-adjustable-low-voltage-cut-off-lcd-display.html Cheers, Cahn
Looks great, what about adding the Dc2Dc into a caravan, what do we do with the ignition wire, 2017 Pajero Sport, and 22 year old caravan, please advise. thanks
if you look at your trailer plug, you have a spare pin normally used for reverse lights (almost no one has reverse lights on there trailer ). run a fused ignition source to that spare pin, same goes from the trailer side of the plug. Run a wire from the trailer plug to the DCDC charger. Other option, just install a manual on/off switched. when your setting off on the long trip, turn it on
To get power to your caravan you’ll probably need to run leads down to the back of your car and use Andersen plugs for the connection between the van and car. With the ignition cable they sell a three pin Andersen plugs for the ignition wire so you can look into that. Another brand uses the three pin connectors but I feel bad mentioning them but it starts with K and ends with ass. Good luck!
Thanks George, This is something I'm hoping to do a video on in the future, but: As the other two commenters have said you'll either need to run a fused ignition source to the spare pin in your 7 pin trailer plug near your towbar, then use the trailer end to run to the DC-DC charger OR you can run a separate ignition wire to a separate plug near your towbar. There are a bunch of quick connect options available - if you're after a single plug then the "powerpole" type are good. Cheers, Cahn
I've just bought this same charger and mounting it the same way as you. My only questions are; where can I get the joining crimps for the larger wire? I can't find any to extend the heavier gauge wires, and I already have a dual battery setup (with a redarc isolator) under the hood with an anderson plug running to the tray where I will be storing everything. Would it matter if that anderson was coming from the auxiliary battery rather than the starting battery? I'm not which one it's connected to. I was just going to connect the positive and negative from the anderson in the tray to the box like you did. I'm unsure how it will all work with already having 2 wet batteries under the hood.
Hey Karl, It really depends on your setup as to whether it'll matter or not... so let's see how we go! First of all what vehicle do you have as it'll depend if you have a smart alternator? Next can you confirm whether the aux battery under the bonnet is a starter type or deep cycle type? I mean ideally you'd connect your DC-DC charger to your starter battery so you have two distinct systems - that way if your isolator does fail, or isn't charging due to low alternator voltage you're not missing out on charging your battery in the back (or you're not discharging your aux battery into your rear battery, without the alternator topping it back up at the same time! Cheers, Cahn
How would you wire in a 240v charger (to charge the auxiliary) into this set-up? Just attach the positive/negative cables to the appropriate terminals in the box?
Hey Jack, most chargers would ideally connect to the terminals of the battery itself to cut down on any connections and possible voltage drop. but yes you could connect to the aux battery terminals in the control box too! Cheers, Cahn
Hi, Please will I still need to run the the ignition wire if I have power at the back of my Ute with a relay that cuts off power to the back when the engine is turned off? Thanks.
Same thing happened to me. Call the shop and order one. When you get it just attach it to the broken one and the red flashing will disappear. Any problem just message me 👍
Hey mate, Most DCDC chargers work as an isolator and don’t need a VSR (including Kings) But if you did have a VSR you’d need to connect the + input wire of the DCDC to the wiring of the VSR keep in mind that you’d need to make sure the wiring was the correct gauge etc and that adding the VSR inline may actually increase resistance and voltage drop! Hard to say exactly how it’d change depending on everyone’s individual setups but hopefully that helps! Cheers, Cahn
Can you guys please upload a video about power options for those who camp in a Sedan? I won't be upgrading to a SUV or UTE for a few years but still would like the convenience of plugging in to a 12v. My concern is that I'd have to build a mobile box that I remove from the car as the car gets quite hot, but don't really know how to make that weather proof.
Easiest option would be to buy a premade battery box. Most have anderson plugs so you can use one of those to connect to the rest of the 12v system. Heat however isnt really an issue with an agm battery. Plenty of 4wds going through northern australia during super hot periods.
G'Day MsKat, There's not a whole lot different - except you'll likely need to run your power cables through the interior instead of under the chassis and into the tub. heat does kill batteries, but a good rule of thumb is if you're ok in the car, the battery is too! The only time this might be an issue is if you're parking in the hot sun with the car locked all day - if you're actually camping with the windows down etc, your battery will be alright. I've been working on this idea for a video though, so keep an idea out! Cheers, Cahn
My kings dctodc charger doesn't have them wires. Just 3 anderson plugs and the black and power wire. Is there a video that explains how to wire up my type
Best step-by-step installation guide of any dual battery system I've seen. Thanks guys!
Legend!! I have just been looking at getting myself a 12v setup but didn’t know where to start. Now I can just follow this video step by step. Would love to see a video on how a inverter would connect up to this setup
G'day Adam,
Ideally you'd connect your inverter directly to the battery (with a fuse on the positive lead) so you can run the shortest possible wires and prevent voltage drop.
You could use the internal posts on the battery box to connect your inverter - connect red to the aux battery post and black to the negative post and it would work, but if you were planning on running any high power tools or appliances, you'd likely want to increase the wire diameter running from your aux battery to the posts in the box to cope with the extra load!
keep an eye out though as this is something I'll add to my list!
Cheers for watching and shooting through a comment,
Cahn
I never had to connect my DC-DC charger to ignition for it to work (no smart alternator to worry about), and it didn't have a plethora of wires to hard-wire battery type. Mine had a push button selector for battery type. I have moved this unit into my caravan now as I have installed a DC-DC MPPT device into the car - this charges the house battery from solar or alternator (no ign wire needed) and when full it charges the start battery as well. The van is simply connected with anderson plugs and decent cable.
Hey maté excellent explanation as always! Just wondering why Kings just doesn’t do a box pre wired with the DC/DC charger and already mounted 🤔
I would love a video on how to custom make that carpeted wood panel and fix it into position. Any chance of a video on that?
I love this setup looks perfect! 👍🏿
I agree, i want to see how he made that
Hi,
Just read yr comment re 12v system. Have a look at my videos and may also be helpful for yr set up.
Cheers
Out There Touring
This confirms I'll be getting someone smarter than me to install 😆 however this, as all the 4wd supacentre videos are, is a great tutorial
Totally.
Great bit of kit. It would be a lot better if you supplied the charger with longer wires on the heavy gauge wire. At least an extra foot/30cm of wire. Also supply the crimp ends and the crimps to extend/join the longer cables.
G'day Andrew - Definitely something I'm pushing for mate! Would've made my job a lot easier too on this install...
Thanks for taking the time to watch and shoot through your feedback! Much appreciated!
Cheers,
Cahn
@@4wdsupacentreAu Thanks for the prompt reply. My thinking is that a lot of people wont want to spend an additional 45-50 dollars on a crimping tool, (which will put a lot of people off buying this unit) just to extend those two heavier cables. Most people are capable of joining/extending thinner cables and they will find it easier to find the thinner gauge wire. Personally i know i can get lugs to extend the heavy gauge cables but they are not readily available to most people. That additional cost 45-50 dollars for a crimping too might make people look at other suppliers, which would be a real shame because your DC-DC charger is brilliant bit of kit. When you consider the two extra 30cm wires will only add a dollar to your build cost. P.s Keep up the great work.
Yes. Correct considering the box is pretty much made for the charger
@@4wdsupacentreAu Hi Cahn, what is the gauge of wire used on the blue ignition wire, thanks John PS this and so many of the videos are simply amazing
2 years later nothing has been changed tho they added Anderson plugs .... retailer told me today if you cut the plug off to pass through hole then that avoids warranty.... why not make the control box to accommodate the wires with correct lengths and lugs.... ...I read these comments of 2 years ago and nothing has changed ....went in today prepared to buy up whole set up and it altered my decision to purchase.... not only that the sales staff were very hesitant on how it worked at all.... you need to train your staff .... lost a good 1.5k sale because of these problems
Just an observation.
I've watched a heap of 12v 2nd battery install vids last 2 weeks.
Everyone uses the word "battery" when referring to "this red wire attaches here to the +, or the black wire goes here to the -" without defining WHICH battery they're referring too!
The vehicle main battery OR 2nd battery mounted on the 4x4 tray or box trailer.
Most people could possibly know what you're explaining and fill in the gaps, I'll admit l don't follow everything.
I saw on a web page today where a person uploaded a pic of his system drawn on paper in red and black pen representing the wires, that was very informative. Sadly l can't upload it.
That's be great if you could provide something similar,
sketching the Control Box, Battery Monitor, DCDC Charger, Main Battery, 2nd Battery, Inline Fuse Placement, where each wire goes the wire gauge and fuse size/placement etc etc.
Even include the the wire gauge for different applications. E.G.
Min 8 B&S gauge Black & Red wire from Vehicle Battery (to the KINGS control box)
E.G. 2mm can be used for all LED lighting.
Don't assume everyone does know.
Has Adventure Kings contemplated running workshops for 12v second battery installs at one of their outlets???
Say 8 - 12 vehicles at a time with a nominal fee especially if the individual purchased all Adventure Kings 12v systems, with some freebies, discounted accessories on the day/night etc.
Even 12v question/answer evenings?
Just thinking outside the square.
Sorry for the long post.
Anyway, thank you for your vids, really enjoy them.
Cheers
Great video, I'm going to watch this a few more times, thank you for sharing, great job!
Hi,
Just read yr comment re 12v system. Have a look at my videos and may also be helpful for yr set up.
Cheers
Out There Touring
Love the install you have done, but would also have like to have seen the basic install using the DC-DC charger with a AGM battery in the Battery Box I purchased from $WD Supacentre as I basically have this kit. To be honest a little lost now due to the fact I do not have the 12 Volt Control Box. Appreciate any help and suggestions were to purchase the optional accessories and tools would also be very helpful in the description.
Hi,
Just read yr comment re 12v system. Have a look at my videos and may also be helpful for yr set up.
Cheers
Out There Touring
Before installing this setup i noticed you had a boxed panel to attached the unit and battery to. Do you have any information/videos going through the building and installation of this?
Wow what awesome videos.i feel confident in setting up this system in my land rover discovery 3.2007 year. Best videos on you tube by far.
Really great video and value-add to help install the kings gear.
Thanks I know how to install a DC-DC charger, but what is it? I have an isolator from start battery to aux deep cycle battery. I bought all my 12 volt gear (bat box 138 AGM, solar blanket and associated gear that go for with it from Kings, but the guys never told me that I needed a DC-DC Charger.
Great video, I don't have the solar cable with my dcdc charger. Can I just connect that cable grey lithium cable straight to the positive inside the box?
Excellent video. Well done
Great video,
Do you have any information on building a similar boxed panel you installed everything on?
That would reduce sales in their control box??🤔😊
Firstly, thanks for these great vids. I have seen on one of your videos a DCDC charger and battery monitor both mounted to the control box, but can’t find a video showing the wiring within? Any hints, or a video detailing this I’m missing?
OK, SO I do`nt need battery VSR? Great video! Thanks
Would be great if they A - had longer wires from the get go, and B - had a control panel optioned with the dcdc already hooked up
Hey Cl4rky, I'm hearing you mate! A fair few people are telling me they'd love a pre-wired one, so it's on my list and I'm looking into it - for the moment though, hopefully this helps!
Cheers,
Cahn
@@4wdsupacentreAu unreal, looks like a great bit of gear but for those who aren’t too electronically minded or hands on a pre wired option would be epic
@@4wdsupacentreAu Gday cahn, what size fuse did you use on the cable from the main to aux battery? And also what size fuse would you recommend for your 1500w inverter, and should you connect the inverter straight to the aux battery or into the switch box?
@@4wdsupacentreAu if you are running the ignition wire with an fuse adapter to the cars fuse box do you still have to fuse the wire or is the one in the video with fuse added for if your not going into fuse box cheers
@@4wdsupacentreAu hi Cahn this blog is now over A year old has anything been done on this, thanks JOHN
Why wouldn’t you just make the dc dc charger with wire lengths 1m long instead of forcing people to buy special crimper , lugs and cable ?
You get voltage drop,or youll get excess heat, you only want the wires to be the length you want plu some room for a repair and a bit of slack, typically a hand width.
@@f1reguy587 the voltage drop you get from 1m of wire would be soo insignificant. The reason would be cost
Or they could give the option to buy their dcdc chargers pre installed on these boxes to reduce the amount of wiring customers need to do
@@f1reguy587 you’ll get more voltage drop from having a crimp in the line. Whereas if they were longer you could cut them to length easily lol
Don't buy a Victron then. No cables, just terminals.
Is your cable rated at 100amps ? What sort of cable for inside the control box
Can you have the solar input plugged in while driving, whilst also being charged from the alternator?
Absolute legend pal
Great video, explained super simple.
Would be great if the charge came already mounted an wired up
Hi Beno,
You're right - it would make things easier and it's something I'm looking into... no plans to release yet but I'm working on it, so hopefully this helped in the meantime!
Cheers,
Cahn
@@4wdsupacentreAu WILL YOU SHIP TO USA???
Any chance of redoing this video with the new style dcdc chargers with quick connect plugs?
Great VDO i have done this set up thanks very much. My question is that I have a camper trailer which has more battery on it do i need to add charger to it??
I agree, why wouldn’t you make the wire the correct length? If someone wanted to mount it further away then they could lengthen the wires to suit them.
thank you for sharing your detailed video as great watching all time.
ask you what working with a 24v power system in a big truck and want to run the 12v dc to dc unit?
Could you wire up the ignition wire to a switch so you can charge your main battery from aux to jump-start yourself?
Great install video just wondering what size cable and fuse were used on the ignition cable
Hi there,
Although we don't have the exact size used in this video available, with all cable matching if you measure the diameter you can then match this against an online search to find the AWG rating of the cable which the maximum capacity will also match the fuse size!
Cheers, Courtney
I would really like to see a video on the exact why you made the board and battery wall/ space to attach the box etc.
Hi there,
Thank you for the question, I can advise that it's added for accessibility reasons and helps stop having gear moving around while on the go, but also keeping that space behind open for storing whatever gear you need in your day-to-day.
Regards, Andrew
@@4wdsupacentreAu just wondering how you fixed it to the roof and base to make it a solid surface 👍
Good video. Did you have to drill to pull through the heavy duty cables between batteries ?
Could you please add the size fuse you need for each and the Cable size you use for each run.
Hi,
Just read yr comment re 12v system. Have a look at my videos and may also be helpful for yr set up.
Cheers
Out There Touring
do you have a video on how you build the internal,box for the storage of battery ect
Hey mate,
I don't have any plans or a video on it unfortunately - I just knocked it up the day before with some ply wood and marine carpet.
It's a vertical piece of ply with two horizontal sections - the main shelf you see in the video (which has a couple of 45° supports underneath) and a top hat that encloses the box. I also put an end cap on the headboard end of the unit to box it in.
I sized it so that it fit over the width of the drawer wings and doesn't interfere with the fridge slide, and I made the main shelf high enough that you can slide a battery underneath.
it's mounted to the bottom corners with L brackets, and the top corners use straight twist brackets (90° Twist) to fasten to the internal bracing in the canopy.
If i did it again I would've added some low dividers on the main shelf to prevent gear sliding around - we use the control box to charge batteries, cameras, phones etc and it'd be nice to keep them in the one place!
Cheers,
Cahn
@@4wdsupacentreAu I am also interested in this set up. Would love to see some photos if possible. Also, why place it on the passenger side? Would it be better for visibility on the drivers side?
@@GregSharkey Unfortunately as I said I didn't film actually knocking up the enclosure but it wasn't too tough!
You're right regarding visibility, but generally we have our camp set up on the passenger side, so if you're pulling up on the side of a track to check something or have lunch, you're on the safe side of the vehicle.
Cheers,
Cahn
Is it possible to have an Anderson plug from the control box going to the spare battery (with the same plug on the other end) so that you don't always carry the spare battery if you don't need it, but when you do, you just plug it in and off you go?
It is possible. I done it myself in my new D'max. Its great. So much you can do with this 12v box.
Hi i like the side window 12v encloseur setup my question is what are the measurements of the panel you used for the window box/ shelf. thank you
cCan you do a video on wiring the dcdc charger AND the battery monitor to the control box in the one video please. I am lost as to weather the yellow and green wires connect to the same binding past as the brown wire or does the whole configuration have to change.. seeing how this is done would be a massive help. cheers
i was thinking of installing a battery monitor as well. Did you get your installed yet and how did you wire yours up? Cheers mate
Who is the one that should stay away from 12v? Keyboard warrior.
Hey great video, if you were using a wiring kit that has terminal on one end and then Anderson’s plug on the other where would you plug the Anderson plug and would that change where you wire the dcdc charger?
Can an AC to DC charger be incorporated into your control box to charge my batteries when pugged in a caravan park without disconnecting batteries?
Why is this the only decent instruction I could find?
Hi cahn, help please.
Once you’ve fixed the dc charger on to the board how do you fix the board into the canopy of the vehicle on the headboard. Thanks Ian
Great video Looks easy to set up. If i have this set up would there be any issue with me removing the aux battery and just connecting it on weekends i'm going camping Cheers
My question relates to the setup you installed the panel and battery on/in. Do you have any videos or information to assist building that?
Yes please would love to see that
I’m considering a circuit breaker between the dc to dc charger and the house battery. What is your opinion on this and if you would do it, what orientation should the breaker be set up - what should connect to the battery side of the circuit breaker and what connects to aux? PS this is a stand alone system that has no starter battery involved.
What do you do with the temp wire if it doesn’t reach that battery
Sorry new to all this. I don’t understand what the gang switch and the bus bar (preassumbled on the control box) are for. Doesnt an inverter need to be attached between the marine battery and your appliances you intend to run? If so why are gang switches and a bus bar needed?
What size we need for the the iginition wire?
Hey! Awesome video really helped in the install of this in my van, thanks! I have a question:
Straight after I installed this dual battery system into my van (VW transporter T5 2014, with smart alternator), 2 engine warning lights came on the dash. I’ve check the alternator in the van and the main van battery using a multimeter and both are testing up as normal. I’ve definitely connected the ignition (blue) wire into a positive ignition power source.
Does anyone has some insight into this?
Thanks heaps! 😊
Which warning lights are they? It could be from disconnecting the Battery while you were connecting everything…
Alternatively your particular model may have a current sensor on the negative terminal of the battery which you’ve unintentionally bypassed by connecting the DCDC wiring directly to the battery. If that’s the case, connecting the negative lead to a body earth NEAR the battery terminal can solve it! Might be worth doing some searching to see if other people have had a similar issue..
It could also be a coincidence… which has definitely happened to me before when I fixed something and an unrelated part broke the next day haha
Cheers,
Cahn
I used all of this to set up my new ute the only thing that I would have liked was the gauge of all the additional wires and the amps of all the fuses that was used . I also have a dmax and had a engine light come on after the install. I have had it cleared as it was a egr loss of signal. I’m hoping it was just because I had the fuse out while I was searching for the right one . Has any body else had that happen?
Hey Cahn just wondering if you did ythe shelf build for the unit in the back of your ute .. looking to build similar and locking for plan
What gauge wire did you run from the main battery to the DC/DC?
What do u do if u need the temperature sensor wire to reach the secondary battery all the way in the engine bay?
I have an Anderson plug on back of my Ute ... Can I just hook the control panel up to that
Great video thanks I know I’m a bit late. But I have a question. Would everything you’ve done there be a great way to earth your wires. I always thought you ran aux,dcdc,solar all to a good chassis ground.
Hi there,
The DC to DC charger has earth cables on each of the Anderson plugs & you always need to earth the AUX battery, whether that be direct to the vehicle or back to the main battery.
Regards, Courtney
If you were to use both the quick connect plugs on the front as solar input how would you go about that? Cause I’m currently putting one together and I’m gonna have one that will always be solar but I’ve also got a foldable solar panel that I’ll set up from time to time at camp
Great vid. Just like the rest of them. Great work.
The small black cable to battery you told us not to cut. What do I do with that if it doesn’t reach my battery?
Cheers.
coil it up and leave it tucked in somewhere. what ever you do do not cut it..
Where on earth did you find female spade that fits the wiring for the solar cable, struggling to find one big enough
Cheers
Hi I’m starting out and am struggling to find a female spade terminal, wondering if you have found one and where thanks
@@lachlanlucas6333 I ended up using a yellow female spade, and just cut some of the copper wires off the solar cable to make it thinner until it fit, been working perfect so far
Would this be the same process if you had dual batteries in engine bay ? Would you have the dc dc charger in the back ?
Yes, would just have to have positive and negative wires coming from both batteries separately into the control box.
Theoretically - could I connect all this up to my caravan, (no 12v set up at all) and have an Anderson plug at the towball for the truck battery area? How would I do the blue wire though?
Hi there,
I know of a few customers who have, though I don't have the specifics to hand for how they set up, with that said we would recommend an extension of the ignition cable on its own circuit however.
Regards, Andrew
I'm wondering where you get the in-line joiners for the larger wires. I can't seem to find them anywhere. Mainly up to 6mm is readily available. I'd appreciate your feedback on this.
Hey guys. the 2 quick connects on the control box. I have a few questions
obviously one is set up for solar input.
With the other quick connect. Can I run my cable from my starter battery into the Quick connect instead of what you did in this vid? you guys had the pre made cable with the anderson on the end. I presume it was for that reason?
if that was the case. Am I able to have both of them plugged in at the same time.
Cheers
I am not using a 12v control box. So to what do I connect they type of battery cable (grey, orange, yellow or white) - the video doesn't make it clear. Do I connect the type of battery cable to the positive cable coming from the car battery?
Thanks a lot for sharing. Planning to have the Kings 115ah AGM, my alternator is 75amps. Which dcdc do I get 20 or 40 amps ? Cheers.
Hi there,
You are able to get either, but if you were wanting for it to charge faster we would recommend the 40A DCDC charger.
Regards, Courtney
Thanks heaps.
What cable do you use for the ignition cable ?
Hey team, what size fuse should I put on a 2 x Kings 110a agm's in parallel to the control box in this exact dcdc setup ?
This is a fantastic guide. The one thing I'm confused about is why you used 2 different different red/positive terminals. It looks like your bcdc runs to one red terminal. That terminal appears to run to your fuse block and also to your aux battery as well. I assume this is because this path is where your bcdc sends power to your aux battery and the aux battery sends power to the fuse block and onto your dc loads. It looks like your main battery power runs to your second positive terminal, which then runs into your bcdc. This path appears to be where power is going into the dcdc. What is the reason for not running your starter battery power to the 1 terminal that connects to your fuse block, dcdc and aux battery? Would that essentially bypas the dcdc and cause the aux battery to drain the starter battery at all times since there is now a path to it that doesnt cross through the dcdc?
Just wondering how you're grounding all those black cables inside the control box? Is it just back to the main starter battery?
Hi there,
This would be piggyback grounded via the starter as you had noted as the circuit would then be completed and closed.
Regards, Andrew
With the blue smart wire, I’m trying to find a fuse that is off when the power is off but only the lights fuse fits this recommendation. But then I only get a charge when the lights are on. Will this be ok? My car is a Mitsubishi triton Mh model
I’m running dual AGMs under the bonnet but want to add a LiFePO4 battery in the bed of my truck. Is it possible to add the third battery to this setup? Also, is this setup weatherproof enough to mount inside the bed of my truck? Thanks
do you need to connect to the dcdc charger to the start battery if I'm running everything off the lithium in the back of the ute
I have an isolator from main battery to aux battery. Just brought a DCDC charger and 12v control box.
How would this install work with the isolator?
Hi Catherine,
The isolator would need to be removed as our DCDC charger has an inbuilt isolator.
Regards, Courtney
Can u do one with the mini control box
Whats the best easiest solar panels to use with the setup
Might be a simple question but if I've got the dual Battery set up from king's and the mppt for solar do I need a dcdc in their somewhere??
what gauge is the "lighter duty" or ignition cable. trying to find just that cable online
I want to add this control box to my trailer, how would that work with the blue ignition cable?
Or would I just leave it out?
Thanks for the video!
Depends on your car mate. if its a new model with a smart alternator you will need it. Kickass (Australian direct) sell a wiring kit that has an Anderson plug with 3 connectors. This would make it easier for you when you disconnect your trailer from your car.
@@johnmillar5703 thanks mate!
im not currently going with solar ( very basic build )so if i dont connect the orange wire like how its been shown in the video, would the orange go to the positive terminal in the box if not where would i then connect it ?
What do you do with temperature wire if it does not have the right length?
I'm getting ready to install this exact setup in my new Hilux and my deep cycle battery is already in a battery box. Can I terminate one end of the cables going to the deep cycle battery, in an Anderson plug so I can just plug it straight into the battery box? Cheers
Hi,
Just read yr comment re 12v system. Have a look at my videos and may also be helpful for yr set up.
Cheers
Out There Touring
Hi if the temperature sensor does not reach my second battery, what do I do?
So with this system do I not need a isolator is it built into the system? Thanks in advance great video as well👍
That's correct! DC-DC Chargers typically work as isolators either with a starter battery voltage trigger or the ignition trigger. With this unit you can choose either by connecting the ignition wire or leaving it disconnected.
Cheers,
Cahn
Another great informative video. I have a MQ Triton Dual Cab and would love to have a 2nd batter setup in the rear tray. Where do you get the grey boarding from that I see in nearly all of the vehicle setup videos ?
did you ever find a answer?
@@Npolis not really - I ended up just securing the 2nd battery in the back.
Marine plywood, coveted in marine carpet . Stick it on with contact adhesive. Very simple and easy to do.
please explain the difference in-between each type of battery.
What Guage wire is used for dual battery set up
Hey looking at ordering this dcdc with solar built in. I already have your dual battery kit can I install this dcdc charger and leave the dual battery kit still in the car? Thanks
Does it matter if the temperature sensor cable doesn’t reach the battery? Do we just ignore it?
Hi there,
We would recommend getting it as close to the battery as you can!
Regards, Courtney
If only this unit had an lcd panel that I could see battery stats and levels. This would be a fantastic kit otherwise
Hey Donovan,
Typically we install these in conjunction with a 12V control box (like in the video) or a battery box that both have the built in LCD screen to see voltage. in the past I've installed a bunch along with a battery monitor that gives you battery voltage, % stae of charge as well as current (amps) in and out. while it'd be nice to have a screen, a lot of people hide their DC-DC charger away, where you woudn't see it anyway. That's why a separate or remote screen is a good idea! There are plenty out there, but this is the Kings Battery monitor / ammeter / low voltage disconnect:
www.4wdsupacentre.com.au/kings-12v-battery-monitor-easy-diy-install-adjustable-low-voltage-cut-off-lcd-display.html
Cheers,
Cahn
What size fuse are you running up near your main battery mate
Looks great, what about adding the Dc2Dc into a caravan, what do we do with the ignition wire, 2017 Pajero Sport, and 22 year old caravan, please advise. thanks
if you look at your trailer plug, you have a spare pin normally used for reverse lights (almost no one has reverse lights on there trailer ). run a fused ignition source to that spare pin, same goes from the trailer side of the plug. Run a wire from the trailer plug to the DCDC charger.
Other option, just install a manual on/off switched. when your setting off on the long trip, turn it on
To get power to your caravan you’ll probably need to run leads down to the back of your car and use Andersen plugs for the connection between the van and car. With the ignition cable they sell a three pin Andersen plugs for the ignition wire so you can look into that. Another brand uses the three pin connectors but I feel bad mentioning them but it starts with K and ends with ass. Good luck!
Thanks George,
This is something I'm hoping to do a video on in the future, but:
As the other two commenters have said you'll either need to run a fused ignition source to the spare pin in your 7 pin trailer plug near your towbar, then use the trailer end to run to the DC-DC charger OR you can run a separate ignition wire to a separate plug near your towbar. There are a bunch of quick connect options available - if you're after a single plug then the "powerpole" type are good.
Cheers,
Cahn
Where can I buy one of those tools that connect the wires together please?
I've just bought this same charger and mounting it the same way as you. My only questions are; where can I get the joining crimps for the larger wire? I can't find any to extend the heavier gauge wires, and I already have a dual battery setup (with a redarc isolator) under the hood with an anderson plug running to the tray where I will be storing everything. Would it matter if that anderson was coming from the auxiliary battery rather than the starting battery? I'm not which one it's connected to. I was just going to connect the positive and negative from the anderson in the tray to the box like you did. I'm unsure how it will all work with already having 2 wet batteries under the hood.
Hey Karl,
It really depends on your setup as to whether it'll matter or not... so let's see how we go!
First of all what vehicle do you have as it'll depend if you have a smart alternator?
Next can you confirm whether the aux battery under the bonnet is a starter type or deep cycle type?
I mean ideally you'd connect your DC-DC charger to your starter battery so you have two distinct systems - that way if your isolator does fail, or isn't charging due to low alternator voltage you're not missing out on charging your battery in the back (or you're not discharging your aux battery into your rear battery, without the alternator topping it back up at the same time!
Cheers,
Cahn
How would you wire in a 240v charger (to charge the auxiliary) into this set-up? Just attach the positive/negative cables to the appropriate terminals in the box?
Hey Jack,
most chargers would ideally connect to the terminals of the battery itself to cut down on any connections and possible voltage drop. but yes you could connect to the aux battery terminals in the control box too!
Cheers,
Cahn
I’ve got 3 batteries I want to connect will this work?
Hi,
Please will I still need to run the the ignition wire if I have power at the back of my Ute with a relay that cuts off power to the back when the engine is turned off?
Thanks.
Yes it’s always a good idea to run it either way!
Hi guys,
The temperature sensor cable is too short. Is there a safe way to extend it?
How'd you go. Mine broke as i fed it through the grommet.
@@deltakiwi I just connected it to an earth point in the back of the car.
Same thing happened to me. Call the shop and order one. When you get it just attach it to the broken one and the red flashing will disappear. Any problem just message me 👍
Do you wire the redarc dcdc the same way thx I’ve got lithium set up
What’s different about this process if you’re already connected to alternator via vsr please?
Hey mate,
Most DCDC chargers work as an isolator and don’t need a VSR (including Kings)
But if you did have a VSR you’d need to connect the + input wire of the DCDC to the wiring of the VSR
keep in mind that you’d need to make sure the wiring was the correct gauge etc and that adding the VSR inline may actually increase resistance and voltage drop!
Hard to say exactly how it’d change depending on everyone’s individual setups but hopefully that helps!
Cheers,
Cahn
@@4wdsupacentreAu Thanks Cahn. Very helpful. Really appreciate your reply. 🤙
Can you guys please upload a video about power options for those who camp in a Sedan? I won't be upgrading to a SUV or UTE for a few years but still would like the convenience of plugging in to a 12v. My concern is that I'd have to build a mobile box that I remove from the car as the car gets quite hot, but don't really know how to make that weather proof.
Hello,
I will be sure to pass the request regarding power options for Sedans onto our marketing team
Cheers,
Saleha
Easiest option would be to buy a premade battery box. Most have anderson plugs so you can use one of those to connect to the rest of the 12v system. Heat however isnt really an issue with an agm battery. Plenty of 4wds going through northern australia during super hot periods.
G'Day MsKat,
There's not a whole lot different - except you'll likely need to run your power cables through the interior instead of under the chassis and into the tub.
heat does kill batteries, but a good rule of thumb is if you're ok in the car, the battery is too!
The only time this might be an issue is if you're parking in the hot sun with the car locked all day - if you're actually camping with the windows down etc, your battery will be alright.
I've been working on this idea for a video though, so keep an idea out!
Cheers,
Cahn
My kings dctodc charger doesn't have them wires. Just 3 anderson plugs and the black and power wire. Is there a video that explains how to wire up my type
Yeah mate! Check out the videos tab on the listing of the DCDC on the website and there are multiple videos for the new DCDC charger!
Cheers,
Cahn