AC OIL & UV DYE INJECTED + DRY NITROGEN TO PUSH THE OIL & SWEEP THE SYSTEM FROM HIGH TO LOW SIDE.

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  • Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
  • After adding oil, if you immediately vacuum from the same spot in some situations, you can actually suck the oil back up your refrigerant hose into your vacuum pump.
    Then, it’s like you’re almost didn’t add any oil at all, but you don’t know it. 

КОМЕНТАРІ • 23

  • @J.AUTO-RESET
    @J.AUTO-RESET 16 днів тому +1

    Supper❤❤❤❤❤

  • @suryaprihadi2258
    @suryaprihadi2258 Рік тому +1

    4 way 4 valves manifold proved its worth in this use case scenario. Sweeeeet💯

  • @davida871
    @davida871 Рік тому +1

    Excellent explanation of how the flow needs to go forward & backward. Sweeping is critical, especially through expansion valve and away from liquid line. Thank you. Subscribed to eagerly learn more.

  • @peterhodgkins6985
    @peterhodgkins6985 Рік тому +2

    Good explanation!

  • @michaeljohnson1006
    @michaeljohnson1006 Рік тому +1

    Tom could you do a video about what's inside the 134a adaptor port's Id be interested to see.
    I remember you saying you stripped them down to service them. I bought some r22 to 134a converters to test the vacuum on my cheap adaptors with my vacuum pump.

  • @davida871
    @davida871 Рік тому +1

    Read bio and I noticed an error you may want to correct. I believe you meant, Procedures that were not taught not tough. Thought youd like to know. Great family legacy your building. 🙏

    • @coldfinger459sub0
      @coldfinger459sub0  Рік тому +1

      Thank you yes I’m good at text to voice translation and not proofreading. Just press send..
      I often answer questions while I’m driving. Using Siri to open up my phone and turning on voice to text all hands-free since I’m driving I do not proofread and I press send .

  • @TheGibby3340
    @TheGibby3340 Рік тому +1

    You clearly made the point about the use of spec oil, but I understand even the tracer dye must be rated for hybrid/EV compressor use. True statement?

    • @coldfinger459sub0
      @coldfinger459sub0  Рік тому +2

      True that is why you buy several different types of dye for different purposes, different oil combinations.
      99.9% of most shops are too cheap to do that and other just plain lack knowledge and then the other percentage just don’t care. .

  • @Bostonn617
    @Bostonn617 Рік тому +2

    I have a recently charged system - with a small leak at the Evaporator. As a last ditch effort before fixing the evaporator I’m going to try red angel stop leak. Since the system is already charged -and the stuff I purchased is just in a regular bottle and not already pressurized would I just purchase a oil injector and induce it into the low side port with the vehicle running? I know It would probably be best to do so by emptying the system , pulling a vaccum and inducing it that way but I just paid 150$ to have it recharged so I’m hoping to not have to empty the whole system just to be able to add the stop leak. If it doesn’t end up working then I’ll be doing the evaporator but it’s quite a big job on my car as the whole dash has to be pulled out. So I’m hoping I might get lucky with the stop leak but not counting on it. Any advice is appreciated !

    • @coldfinger459sub0
      @coldfinger459sub0  Рік тому

      Look up TracerLine Products
      They started developing leak sealants that had a syringe that you can just inject into your full system .
      But what I cannot remember is if they made one for electric vehicles
      TracerLine products was a high-quality manufacture of trusted UV dyes that I was using 40 years ago .
      I have known people with read angel horror stories specially if there is moisture in the air inside mix with Refrigerant, turning into Jell-O
      And I actually came across in my ears to systems that had this happen
      It literally look like lime Jell-O because it had the green UV die in there and the oil and the red angel turn thick
      Every component had to be replaced in the whole entire system .
      I do not use leak sealant .
      But I was looking for one for Prius because it’s 7 1/2 hours to replace the evaporator . Here in San Francisco where are the majority of the labor rates in automotive shops are over $200 an hour. That gets a little bit expensive. I feel sorry for the customers..
      For you I just sent a email contact to TracerLine Products asking them if they make a leak sealant for electric vehicles specifically .
      You can go to TracerLine Products website .
      And see if you can find anything yourself or ask the question or call up there hotline it’s a one 800 free number .

  • @masbrois7491
    @masbrois7491 Рік тому +2

    Tom, when you decide to replace condenser with new one?

    • @coldfinger459sub0
      @coldfinger459sub0  Рік тому

      You replace condenser if you had a car accident and I got smashed
      Can you replace condenser when you have a leak in your old condenser?
      Or are you asking? When do you decide to add oil?
      Toyota factory recommended is 40 mL of DENSO ND 11 refrigerant oil when you are replacing a brand new condenser . Is this the question you were asking and wanting an answer for ?

  • @ThePracticalMechanic
    @ThePracticalMechanic Рік тому +1

    What brand dye are you using for electric compressors. Tracerline only shows a three pack of 1ml hybrid dye capsules for $80.
    I was able to find nonconductive uv dye in New Zealand. Google is lacking and I had limited success for a good product for a busy shop. I normally just skip dye on hybrids with electrified compressors.

  • @johnthrossel9981
    @johnthrossel9981 Рік тому +2

    Tom, how do you store your gauges between jobs? Do you fill them with dry nitrogen
    I just got a fieldpiece 480v and want to care for the best I can

    • @coldfinger459sub0
      @coldfinger459sub0  Рік тому +1

      I vacuumed them down to 100 µm only takes one or two minutes sometimes less sometimes more depends on how contaminated your last vehicle was.
      Then I fill them with dry nitrogen to about one psi plus or minus no big deal .
      Sometimes, when I know, I’m gonna use the gauge set in a couple hours for a couple minutes . Because I do so many cars per day.
      I will store them under vacuum get it under 100 µm and then clothes off each valve .
      When I go to use the unit a couple minutes later and I turn it on it should still be somewhere down at a couple hundred microns at least then I know everything is good
      If one side hose shows less vacuum, then the other for example one hose drops to 29 or 28 negative vacuum it’s no longer in the micron range . Then I know I’m looking for a leak under vacuum and I have some work to do..
      But I am into high production where I’m jumping from job to job every several minutes.
      So my gauges are constantly being used throughout the entire day .
      Only at night do I store them with nitrogen .
      You were probably talking about long-term storage many days or weeks in between .
      In your case, draw them under 100 µm we’re about 10 minutes .
      And then purge nitrogen in the system somewhere around 2 to 5 psi, positive pressure .
      And then store them

  • @Sublimethoughtswithnathan
    @Sublimethoughtswithnathan Рік тому +2

    If the system is vacuumed and passes could you add the oil and then sweep it with refrigerant?

    • @coldfinger459sub0
      @coldfinger459sub0  Рік тому

      Should add oil before vacuum. When adding oil to a vacuum system you add a little air and moisture contamination.
      Even the oil in plastic bottles in the automotive store has a small level of moisture contamination
      You can add in vacuum if you are going to still vacuum for a long time after