Pretty good. I have the same dye injection kit. Thanks for the instructions. You need a head gear go pro. Wonder it’s (dye) shelf life 😂 I’m so bad. I did get the SMAN , the vacuum pump. The silicon hoses and the monster vacuum hose. All thanks to finding this UA-cam page.
This last year I’ve watched a few videos on making neon signs. I would like to make a lightbulb or two or neon sign, or at least a light just because I can . And would like to say, I have at least done it once.. Neon signs were your gig . I would like to take that knowledge and technology and transfer it over to making vacuum tubes for radio. I’ve been watching some videos. . Would like to make a simple little with my own homemade vacuum tubes just for the wow factor . in a clear glass desktop working conversational piece. With all hand transformers that were applied to old Thomas Edison style radios from the 1920s.
Thanks for making this video. Just what I wanted to see you do. And thanks for the nitrogen blast tip! My tools preference: vacuum pump, vacuum hose, micron gauge, good analog gauges, and nitrogen.
I’m just uploading a video right now as I’m talking making this message about True Tech Tools and purchasing tools from True Tech Tools and my recommended tools
I finally find some one who is really really a AC service tech and not mubo jumbo person. i subscribed today. Sorry i am late and glad find you. Quick question in automotive industry while charging freeon they dont use themerocuple to get the heat and charge based on super heat or super cool based on fixed orfice or TXV. appreciate if you have any videos on explaining this. I am 200% confidencce no body have done it, because auto and residential are treated very different there may reason.. appreciate if you can do a video
Everybody with knowledge and experience, and who is a professional who wants to provide better service for the customer in an easier and faster diagnostic time for the next time the vehicle comes into the shop. All these particular individuals use UV dye. Everybody who is cheap, ignorant, or lazy, tends to stay away from the use of UV dye. Then there was the old suspicious information that is still lingering around and still available. There was UV dyes that contained solvent substance in them that would possibly cause damage, especially if there was too much in breakdown and thin out the oil or react to a seals. This was true. Most of those dyes have been eliminated off the market, but they still exist in lazy people who will not read ignorant people who do not know or cheap people who select the cheapest product caused the problems. TracerLine Products has always provided the most concentrated, highly effective non-damaging UV dies on the market But the price was much more expensive than every other manufacture so cheap people would stay clear of the good product, and the Chi people are ignorant people who didn’t read and understand with drift towards purchasing the Chi products that cause problems, or did not work very well. When the Chi people or the lazy people or the ignorant people would stay away from good UV lights that were very strong, improperly tuned in the correct light wave length nanometers because they were expensive, Then they would buy the cheap UV lights, and then say they didn’t work very well so they would give the UV dye a bad name And again here we have another situation, where it falls back onto the individual who is either lazy or cheap or ignorant. The difference between formally educated individuals, and those who learn by breaking things. And then blaming it on somebody else
The similar looking injector tool I got has a backflow preventer in the female flare connector at the end of short hose. Unless it's pressing on a valve core no oil/dye comes out when you're turning in the piston. It's just building pressure inside the injector tool. So I need another adapter, like C&D 1454. In case anyone else runs into this issue.
Thank you for your video, just to confirm, after you close, depress LS valve, and inject the oil, you open the valve and leave it open while the vacuum pump "pulls" the oil through the compressor by leaving the high side valve closed letting it run over night to complete the draw? Then you close both valves and let it run for a while prior to adding the refrigerant?
With this oil injector, it does not need the vacuum pump to run or pull in the oil. With this oil injector, it has a screw gear injector oil. So even if the system is filled with Refrigerant oil, you can still push the oil that will overcome the pressure of the refrigerant and still go into the system.. Or you could put it in with no vacuum pump In this video, I just happen to have the vacuum pump on already was doing other things got distracted and forgot to put the oil in earlier . . In an automotive shop, they usually do not leave the vacuum pump on more than an hour. Many shops don’t even leave it on more than 10 or 15 minutes or 30 minutes. . But if you were a do it yourself person at home in your garage and you have all the Time in the world you can leave the vacuum pump on overnight even 24 hours . Shop cannot do that because I have to make money . Cannot stop on one customers car while you have five other air conditioning jobs to do to leave your vacuum pump on one car overnight.. Vacuum pump does not pull the oil anywhere. It does not pull it into compressor or pull it out. Vacuum pump only removes air and moisture.
I'm a little confused here, injecting oil ( any liquid be it refrigerant or oil) into the low side is just before it enters the compressor...won't that kill the compressor ? Why not inject to high side so that the liquid must pass through the evaportor first before getting to the compressor .
It’s only a very small amount and 40 mL. Think of the old days of pouring water down the carburetor to help clean carbon how does a combustion chamber?. You’re not pouring down a 5 gallon bucket , you’re dribbling drops. You’re not injecting 6 ounces of oil down the suction line right in front of the compressor . There are some cases where, especially if you put too much liquid refrigerant oil, in the high side line is located just before the expansion valve. The oil hits that small orifice in the expansion valve and it is thick like molasses and I have seen it take literally a few minutes to finally pass, but until that time it completely blocks the refrigerant flow and you think you have a plugged expansion valve. Lol 😂. If the high side service 13 is after the compressor and before the condenser, no problem.
Great Videos Tom In very old systems, with the high and low side valves located right at the compressor, would you worry about the liquid dye possibly damaging the compressor ?
If you’re only putting in the die, and it’s from a good quality manufacture, the quantity you’ll be using is only about 2 mL to 5 mL that’s it almost in perceivable to the compressor. The manufactures that I use are TracerLine Products And AC Extends Very high-quality, extremely concentrated so you only need a few milliliters If you are injecting a ounce or two of oil, for some reason, then you just slowly turn as the system is running, and you will only be injecting a small quantity of a milliliter or two at the time well, it is running at 20 or 30 psi, and that will be diluting it down with the refrigerant And oil stream that is already moving into the compressor. Therefore, I will be a insignificant unmeasurable amount and you’ll just do it slowly..
@@georgelivanes2832 no problem just pulled my gauges off of a Toyota RAV4 as I’m working up the work order see your question pop in and your things in your reply. I know I won’t be able to answer everybody’s questions all the time especially when the subscriber count gets way up there I see the guys with 10,000 or 20,000 100,000 subscribers they talk about it’s impossible to answer all the questions .
hey, do you leave the oil in the injector until you use it up? or do you return it to a metal container after one car ? second question, it is 100% safe to adding oil via low side port which is direct on compressor inlet? Not better add via high side port ? 3rd Q - could i add oil direct to the condenser through the inlet port of condenser, next mount it on car, and next make nitrogen leak test, vacuum etc..., ?
Leave it inside the injector metal tube. Do not pour it back into the can. The can is contaminated the Kanas filled with air you have now it’s supposed to moisture. In the injection tube, you poured it into a metal container, and then you turned in purged out all the air so it cannot be excessively exposed to air with moisture The best ones for POE oil actually do not use hoses. They’re metal with flex joints, so I cannot even absorb moisture through the hose for injection. Yes, you can inject die or oil anywhere even right on top of the compressor like a general motors in the pick up trucks with the low side sitting on the compressor just rotate the compressor with your hand Yes you can pour in your die or refrigerant oil in the condenser and then you can perform all your test with high-pressure nitrogen and do vacuum because it’s inside the condenser makes no difference .
Just wanna ask... If i don't have a nitrogen to pushing the oil down in low side..can i just put a Refrigerant then start the ac and continuation add the refrigerant unit the correct Required Quantity??!
It all depends Concentrated UV dye you’re only using 2 mL to 5 mL no harm in doing anything I am talking about concentrated UV dye Oil injection if you have a muffler between your service port and the intake of the compressor, that is your little savior But on the other hand, if you just put in a brand new system, that was all dry . And you’re low side service fitting, was directly on top or inches away from the intake of your compressor And your compressor system oil capacity was let’s say 7 ounces or 10 ounces And you inject it all seven or 10 ounces into the lowside sitting on a brand new system, and then turned it on and engage the compressor Then it would take that slug of liquid oil and shove it right into the compressor Sometimes bad things happen when you try to compress a liquid 🤔 This is where the base knowledge of common sense and understanding, liquids in vapors location of fittings, and the quantity of what your injecting comes in to play .
I’ve been wondering about how to properly store a vacuum pump since I don’t use it often. I know I need to replace the oil in it before every use but should I store the pump with fresh oil in it or leave it drained between uses?
Run the vacuum pump for about an hour and get it very hot This will help boil out the moisture from inside the pump Then, while it is still hot, change the oil with fresh oil Cap up the ends and store it
6:30 Can the system schrader hold a vacuum? I understand that you closed the schrader by unscrewing the connector knob, but I thought those schraders would still suck in air. Can you pull a vacuum and unhook the hoses and still hold that vacuum?
Aloha Tom, I'm new to your channel and appreciate your explanations focusing on the DIYer. I do most repairs on my vehicles including A/C repairs and I enjoy the benefits of owning my own tools, when i have the chance. May I ask what you would recommend for a vacuum pump for the occasional shade tree mecechanlc like me? I have a certificate of training in AC refrigerant and safe practices and evacuation. I'm looking at the JB DV-4E; HILMOR 3 CFM; or Fieldpiece FP67; If you have any other suggestions, I;d appreciate it. Thank you
You were mentioning some nice piece of equipment for a shade tree backyard Mechanic congratulations they’re not the $60 eBay slow boat from China products. I would recommend the Fieldpiece VP67. I think that’s what you meant instead of FP. I would also recommend when you can afford it the blue silicone vacuum, dedicated vacuum hose with the fittings that come off the largest fitting off of the Fieldpiece pump, which is three-quarter inch . You can purchase it at a later date . I would also recommend True Tech Tools I do not have any affiliation with them, but that’s where I buy all my tools Chris from HVAC videos on UA-cam has a promo code for an 8% discount with True Tech Tools It’s all one word, capital letters BIGPICTURE YOU ENTER THAT IN THE PROMO CODE BOX AND YOU WILL GET 8% OFF THE PRICE. Good luck I hope this information helps you ask questions anytime I want everybody to learn as much as they can, and do the best job they can for their customers .
Thanks Tom for the time you took to respond; I appreciate it. I first learned about big blue from your video- "AC single hose vacuum; single hose recharge Micrometer explained. " Yes big blue is in the budget along with the Fieldpiece VP67 on your recommendation. Thank you! The problem I have; maybe not so much a problem, but I live in Hawaii where shipping here blows so I shop around and need to buy from AMzn to save on cost. I do compare prices before pressing the buy now:) and will check out True Tech Tools. Especially for the the connections for big blue to the FP and Manifold guage. I also purchased a CPS VG200 that i need to figure out how to hook it all up and vacuum correctly without the schrader valve. Keep up the good work you do for your customers and the vids you make for folks like me.@@coldfinger459sub0
@@firefly737 I was in Maui this year earlier during what they called it a unusual heat spell that was hotter than normal. I like the island swimming with the sea turtles, but it took me four days to get used to the heat and humidity. I could not walk outside more than 30 minutes without going home and sleeping for two hours to get up again to try to go outside again the San Francisco boy, who was born and raised in the fog just cannot handle Hawaii’s intense son, humidity and heat. Yes, when purchasing stuff on Amazon when I was in Hawaii I discovered things with lithium batteries in them. We’re restricted I guess because they have to come on planes.
@@coldfinger459sub0 Yes! It was and has been really hot, especially the summers. Over time, one does acclimate and can then really enjoy what Hawaii has to offer. I'm born and raised. I enjoy SF as my wife and I like the touristy stuff. We recently went to Coit Tower and did the day bus tour. I occasionally go to OAK for work too. Harbor Freight- here I come:)
6:36 - can you also turn the thread in a bit and then press the pump to push the oil into the empty valve knob, which would then push most of the air out too, or would that just waste too much oil, because it wants to come out via the small gap first and not go into the empty valve knob right away?
I don’t quite understand the question. When you turn on the pump, it’s a vacuum pump so you the system will be under vacuum.. exactly what valve am I turning the low side blue valve ?. What area am I trying to remove? . Or oil to be pushed ?. Under all circumstances, the one thing I am trying to avoid and minimize, is the introduction of any outside, ambient air that contains moisture .
from 6:36 you start to attach the oil pump to the valve knob, but it probably has that small amount of air inside the thread part that is sticking out from the knob - not really sure how deep does that thread part reaches inside tho
@@viisteist1363 OK now I understand exactly what you’re saying. It’s on the vacuum pump, sucking from the high side right now anyway. And you’re going to leave it on the vacuum pump for another hour. Or until your micron gauge says you get somewhere hopefully below 500 µm or 100 µm.. so that little tiny amount of air that was in the threads will be removed anyway, in the vacuum process after you add the refrigerant oil and refrigerant dye. And normally your refrigerant oil injector would have another low side suction fitting on it. I’m just showing a way where somebody doesn’t have the money to purchase too low side section fittings.. So Air would not be a consideration in the first place I will make another video on that and show again I have made videos on this before . I will show adding refrigerant oil to a system that you already charged up using a lowside section fitting that is already attached and has no air in it that only has oil or die to inject under pressure. There’s 100 different ways to do things . This is just one example I’m showing in the video I have made videos of other examples.
When oiling an AC compressor shouldn't you be able to hand turn the shaft while it is level and mounted into the vehicle assuming it's not under any vacuum? Shouldn't it turn without getting stuck and if it does do I need to add more oil?
@@coldfinger459sub0 The thing that worries me is that I was able to hand turn it when I held it with the pulley facing down. Soon as I bolted it on to the vehicle it wouldn't turn much anymore. That's why I was wondering if I needed to put more than 2 oz of oil in it. I'm also not sure if I got all the factory oil out. Luckily it's the same kind. I was thinking of just not putting any in the accumulator instead of putting that extra amount in the compressor. I haven't opened accumulator yet. I want to know this compressor is going to turn first.
@@electric_thumbs did you fallow mounting instructions? Example Tighten bolt pattern in star in steps of 5 ft lbs. each time until you get to 20 ft lbs. ? Instructions talk about mounting pad shims or pins ? On some if a force is applied to one bolt at a time. It can destroy , bind the housing of the compressor on the shaft
There were no such instructions but what I'm noticing is it matters if the compressor is level versus if I'm holding it with a pulley facing the ground. Only in the latter case can I get the shaft to turn. If I have it level it won't turn and if it does at all even a little bit it's not very smooth so I don't push it. I can take it off in tilt The compressor face down and have no problem turning the shaft. It's just not moving when I level it as it is when it's in the vehicle.Would that indicate that it's bound up?
@@electric_thumbs should not make a difference. Just sounds like you get a better grip when is facing down then level. Put it in advice, but New not crush it by the case . Putting it down and rotating it and leaving it sit for 30 minutes is something that is written in the instructions to allow the lubricant to get to the front shaft seal before installing . And this is a problem when somebody buys a product that they don’t know how to correctly, service or install and they don’t research and look up the factory manufacturers instructions sometimes bad things happen Things like oil balance Properly, mounting the compressor onto the engine block, the torque procedures and sequence Whether the compressor had optional, shims or methods of making sure it is level, one mounted onto the engine block The use of dowel pins, if that is an option for mounting Sometimes the lubricant does not go into or come out of the suction or discharge line openings some compressor. There’s a separate bolt just for oil. . I have come across some aftermarket, rebuilt or new compresses that I could not turn by hand, but they were brand new and work perfectly fine afterwards . Usually having to put a van spanner wrench around a whole circumference of the clutch to spin it to get it break free Or a clutch tool that was manufactured just for the face of the clutch to spin it .
@coldfinger459sub0 do you recommend sheilf time? For plastic ones since i have alot of them or you recommend to get rid off them Q:what brands you recommend to use?
@@abdullwwful many of the Japanese brands come in metal cans. Most all the factory OEM come in metal cans.. Don’t know shelf life . I know I always given some a few years old.. buy shop. It all turned color, and smells rancid.. something that you’ll never see happen in metal cans.
Some do not have a smell. They just absorb moisture without getting that rancid smell. There was one particular refrigerator oil that was died a dark color blue When it would get really old in a plastic bottle, it would turn clear. There was another manufacturer oil that had a moisture chemical indicator inside of it. This was non-Automotive. Just 10 minutes exposed to the air and it would turn light orange
Hello sir how is your work I'm a mechanic and I always watch your videos on UA-cam and I have find your videos so useful, can I have your contact so that I can learn more from you
UA-cam blocked my email from being sent to you. Let me try this again. I’m going to send you my name with the_and then my last name I use Hotmail Don’t forget the @ thomas_lech @ hotmail .com Maybe You Tube will not pick this up as a email and let you see it I sent you a message with my email account and I guess You Tube decided to block it. It does that with some links and some emails.
I have this similar refrigerant oil injection and I installed new system of A/C for Corolla 2010 and the system is empty, How many ml of compressor oil should I put in the system
1: is this the first compressor replaced on the car? 2: if it’s a burnt out compressor or those metal flake inside the whole compressor, did you change the condenser and the expansion valve? Did you flush out all the refrigerant hoses and evaporator. ? 3: give me the 17 digit Vin number from the vehicle and I’ll look it up in the computer and I could give you the complete total oil capacity of the system .
Pretty good. I have the same dye injection kit. Thanks for the instructions. You need a head gear go pro. Wonder it’s (dye) shelf life 😂 I’m so bad. I did get the SMAN , the vacuum pump. The silicon hoses and the monster vacuum hose. All thanks to finding this UA-cam page.
This last year I’ve watched a few videos on making neon signs.
I would like to make a lightbulb or two or neon sign, or at least a light just because I can . And would like to say, I have at least done it once..
Neon signs were your gig .
I would like to take that knowledge and technology and transfer it over to making vacuum tubes for radio. I’ve been watching some videos. .
Would like to make a simple little with my own homemade vacuum tubes just for the wow factor . in a clear glass desktop working conversational piece. With all hand transformers that were applied to old Thomas Edison style radios from the 1920s.
Thank you for explaining everything in such detail, nice job!
Thanks for making this video. Just what I wanted to see you do. And thanks for the nitrogen blast tip! My tools preference: vacuum pump, vacuum hose, micron gauge, good analog gauges, and nitrogen.
I’m just uploading a video right now as I’m talking making this message about True Tech Tools and purchasing tools from True Tech Tools and my recommended tools
I finally find some one who is really really a AC service tech and not mubo jumbo person. i subscribed today. Sorry i am late and glad find you. Quick question in automotive industry while charging freeon they dont use themerocuple to get the heat and charge based on super heat or super cool based on fixed orfice or TXV. appreciate if you have any videos on explaining this. I am 200% confidencce no body have done it, because auto and residential are treated very different there may reason.. appreciate if you can do a video
I love your videos, thanks, Tom.
Thank you
Still struggling with my Nissan Patrol in Dubai, once again an fantastic piece of content. Funny how nobody seems to use UV dye :(
Everybody with knowledge and experience, and who is a professional who wants to provide better service for the customer in an easier and faster diagnostic time for the next time the vehicle comes into the shop.
All these particular individuals use UV dye.
Everybody who is cheap, ignorant, or lazy, tends to stay away from the use of UV dye.
Then there was the old suspicious information that is still lingering around and still available. There was UV dyes that contained solvent substance in them that would possibly cause damage, especially if there was too much in breakdown and thin out the oil or react to a seals.
This was true. Most of those dyes have been eliminated off the market, but they still exist in lazy people who will not read ignorant people who do not know or cheap people who select the cheapest product caused the problems.
TracerLine Products has always provided the most concentrated, highly effective non-damaging UV dies on the market
But the price was much more expensive than every other manufacture so cheap people would stay clear of the good product, and the Chi people are ignorant people who didn’t read and understand with drift towards purchasing the Chi products that cause problems, or did not work very well.
When the Chi people or the lazy people or the ignorant people would stay away from good UV lights that were very strong, improperly tuned in the correct light wave length nanometers because they were expensive,
Then they would buy the cheap UV lights, and then say they didn’t work very well so they would give the UV dye a bad name
And again here we have another situation, where it falls back onto the individual who is either lazy or cheap or ignorant.
The difference between formally educated individuals, and those who learn by breaking things.
And then blaming it on somebody else
The similar looking injector tool I got has a backflow preventer in the female flare connector at the end of short hose. Unless it's pressing on a valve core no oil/dye comes out when you're turning in the piston. It's just building pressure inside the injector tool. So I need another adapter, like C&D 1454. In case anyone else runs into this issue.
Dye is good. They should put this in from the factory
Some do
Thank you for your video, just to confirm, after you close, depress LS valve, and inject the oil, you open the valve and leave it open while the vacuum pump "pulls" the oil through the compressor by leaving the high side valve closed letting it run over night to complete the draw?
Then you close both valves and let it run for a while prior to adding the refrigerant?
With this oil injector, it does not need the vacuum pump to run or pull in the oil.
With this oil injector, it has a screw gear injector oil. So even if the system is filled with Refrigerant oil, you can still push the oil that will overcome the pressure of the refrigerant and still go into the system..
Or you could put it in with no vacuum pump
In this video, I just happen to have the vacuum pump on already was doing other things got distracted and forgot to put the oil in earlier . .
In an automotive shop, they usually do not leave the vacuum pump on more than an hour. Many shops don’t even leave it on more than 10 or 15 minutes or 30 minutes. .
But if you were a do it yourself person at home in your garage and you have all the Time in the world you can leave the vacuum pump on overnight even 24 hours .
Shop cannot do that because I have to make money . Cannot stop on one customers car while you have five other air conditioning jobs to do to leave your vacuum pump on one car overnight..
Vacuum pump does not pull the oil anywhere. It does not pull it into compressor or pull it out. Vacuum pump only removes air and moisture.
I'm a little confused here, injecting oil ( any liquid be it refrigerant or oil) into the low side is just before it enters the compressor...won't that kill the compressor ? Why not inject to high side so that the liquid must pass through the evaportor first before getting to the compressor .
It’s only a very small amount and 40 mL.
Think of the old days of pouring water down the carburetor to help clean carbon how does a combustion chamber?.
You’re not pouring down a 5 gallon bucket , you’re dribbling drops.
You’re not injecting 6 ounces of oil down the suction line right in front of the compressor .
There are some cases where, especially if you put too much liquid refrigerant oil, in the high side line is located just before the expansion valve. The oil hits that small orifice in the expansion valve and it is thick like molasses and I have seen it take literally a few minutes to finally pass, but until that time it completely blocks the refrigerant flow and you think you have a plugged expansion valve. Lol 😂.
If the high side service 13 is after the compressor and before the condenser, no problem.
Great Videos Tom
In very old systems, with the high and low side valves located right at the compressor, would you worry about the liquid dye possibly damaging the compressor ?
If you’re only putting in the die, and it’s from a good quality manufacture, the quantity you’ll be using is only about 2 mL to 5 mL that’s it almost in perceivable to the compressor.
The manufactures that I use are TracerLine Products
And AC Extends
Very high-quality, extremely concentrated so you only need a few milliliters
If you are injecting a ounce or two of oil, for some reason, then you just slowly turn as the system is running, and you will only be injecting a small quantity of a milliliter or two at the time well, it is running at 20 or 30 psi, and that will be diluting it down with the refrigerant And oil stream that is already moving into the compressor. Therefore, I will be a insignificant unmeasurable amount and you’ll just do it slowly..
I can see how busy you are so I really appreciate you taking the time to reply to everybody's questions Tom
@@georgelivanes2832 no problem just pulled my gauges off of a Toyota RAV4 as I’m working up the work order see your question pop in and your things in your reply.
I know I won’t be able to answer everybody’s questions all the time especially when the subscriber count gets way up there I see the guys with 10,000 or 20,000 100,000 subscribers they talk about it’s impossible to answer all the questions .
hey, do you leave the oil in the injector until you use it up? or do you return it to a metal container after one car ? second question, it is 100% safe to adding oil via low side port which is direct on compressor inlet? Not better add via high side port ? 3rd Q - could i add oil direct to the condenser through the inlet port of condenser, next mount it on car, and next make nitrogen leak test, vacuum etc..., ?
Leave it inside the injector metal tube. Do not pour it back into the can. The can is contaminated the Kanas filled with air you have now it’s supposed to moisture.
In the injection tube, you poured it into a metal container, and then you turned in purged out all the air so it cannot be excessively exposed to air with moisture
The best ones for POE oil actually do not use hoses. They’re metal with flex joints, so I cannot even absorb moisture through the hose for injection.
Yes, you can inject die or oil anywhere even right on top of the compressor like a general motors in the pick up trucks with the low side sitting on the compressor just rotate the compressor with your hand
Yes you can pour in your die or refrigerant oil in the condenser and then you can perform all your test with high-pressure nitrogen and do vacuum because it’s inside the condenser makes no difference .
Just wanna ask... If i don't have a nitrogen to pushing the oil down in low side..can i just put a Refrigerant then start the ac and continuation add the refrigerant unit the correct Required Quantity??!
@@khaledq8bloshi306 we have to figure out a way of getting absolutely no air inside the system.
Is there any risk of compressor slugging by injecting to the low side? Why cant we inject oil in the high side instead? Tks
It all depends
Concentrated UV dye you’re only using 2 mL to 5 mL no harm in doing anything
I am talking about concentrated UV dye
Oil injection if you have a muffler between your service port and the intake of the compressor, that is your little savior
But on the other hand, if you just put in a brand new system, that was all dry .
And you’re low side service fitting, was directly on top or inches away from the intake of your compressor
And your compressor system oil capacity was let’s say 7 ounces or 10 ounces
And you inject it all seven or 10 ounces into the lowside sitting on a brand new system, and then turned it on and engage the compressor
Then it would take that slug of liquid oil and shove it right into the compressor
Sometimes bad things happen when you try to compress a liquid 🤔
This is where the base knowledge of common sense and understanding, liquids in vapors location of fittings, and the quantity of what your injecting comes in to play .
I’ve been wondering about how to properly store a vacuum pump since I don’t use it often. I know I need to replace the oil in it before every use but should I store the pump with fresh oil in it or leave it drained between uses?
Run the vacuum pump for about an hour and get it very hot
This will help boil out the moisture from inside the pump
Then, while it is still hot, change the oil with fresh oil
Cap up the ends and store it
@@coldfinger459sub0 ok, thanks for the advice
6:30 Can the system schrader hold a vacuum? I understand that you closed the schrader by unscrewing the connector knob, but I thought those schraders would still suck in air. Can you pull a vacuum and unhook the hoses and still hold that vacuum?
Some hold some do not.
It’s NOT ! a good idea to unhook under vacuum
Aloha Tom, I'm new to your channel and appreciate your explanations focusing on the DIYer. I do most repairs on my vehicles including A/C repairs and I enjoy the benefits of owning my own tools, when i have the chance. May I ask what you would recommend for a vacuum pump for the occasional shade tree mecechanlc like me? I have a certificate of training in AC refrigerant and safe practices and evacuation. I'm looking at the JB DV-4E; HILMOR 3 CFM; or Fieldpiece FP67; If you have any other suggestions, I;d appreciate it. Thank you
You were mentioning some nice piece of equipment for a shade tree backyard Mechanic congratulations they’re not the $60 eBay slow boat from China products.
I would recommend the Fieldpiece VP67. I think that’s what you meant instead of FP.
I would also recommend when you can afford it the blue silicone vacuum, dedicated vacuum hose with the fittings that come off the largest fitting off of the Fieldpiece pump, which is three-quarter inch .
You can purchase it at a later date .
I would also recommend True Tech Tools I do not have any affiliation with them, but that’s where I buy all my tools Chris from HVAC videos on UA-cam has a promo code for an 8% discount with True Tech Tools
It’s all one word, capital letters BIGPICTURE YOU ENTER THAT IN THE PROMO CODE BOX AND YOU WILL GET 8% OFF THE PRICE.
Good luck I hope this information helps you ask questions anytime I want everybody to learn as much as they can, and do the best job they can for their customers .
Thanks Tom for the time you took to respond; I appreciate it. I first learned about big blue from your video- "AC single hose vacuum; single hose recharge Micrometer explained. "
Yes big blue is in the budget along with the Fieldpiece VP67 on your recommendation. Thank you! The problem I have; maybe not so much a problem, but I live in Hawaii where shipping here blows so I shop around and need to buy from AMzn to save on cost. I do compare prices before pressing the buy now:) and will check out True Tech Tools. Especially for the the connections for big blue to the FP and Manifold guage. I also purchased a CPS VG200 that i need to figure out how to hook it all up and vacuum correctly without the schrader valve.
Keep up the good work you do for your customers and the vids you make for folks like me.@@coldfinger459sub0
@@firefly737 I was in Maui this year earlier during what they called it a unusual heat spell that was hotter than normal. I like the island swimming with the sea turtles, but it took me four days to get used to the heat and humidity. I could not walk outside more than 30 minutes without going home and sleeping for two hours to get up again to try to go outside again the San Francisco boy, who was born and raised in the fog just cannot handle Hawaii’s intense son, humidity and heat.
Yes, when purchasing stuff on Amazon when I was in Hawaii I discovered things with lithium batteries in them. We’re restricted I guess because they have to come on planes.
@@coldfinger459sub0 Yes! It was and has been really hot, especially the summers. Over time, one does acclimate and can then really enjoy what Hawaii has to offer. I'm born and raised. I enjoy SF as my wife and I like the touristy stuff. We recently went to Coit Tower and did the day bus tour. I occasionally go to OAK for work too. Harbor Freight- here I come:)
@@coldfinger459sub0 BTW- EVAC kit is in the cart at TruTech tools with free shipping and Promo code worked. You saved be some bucks- Mahalo:)
6:36 - can you also turn the thread in a bit and then press the pump to push the oil into the empty valve knob, which would then push most of the air out too, or would that just waste too much oil, because it wants to come out via the small gap first and not go into the empty valve knob right away?
I don’t quite understand the question. When you turn on the pump, it’s a vacuum pump so you the system will be under vacuum.. exactly what valve am I turning the low side blue valve ?.
What area am I trying to remove? . Or oil to be pushed ?.
Under all circumstances, the one thing I am trying to avoid and minimize, is the introduction of any outside, ambient air that contains moisture .
from 6:36 you start to attach the oil pump to the valve knob, but it probably has that small amount of air inside the thread part that is sticking out from the knob - not really sure how deep does that thread part reaches inside tho
@@viisteist1363 OK now I understand exactly what you’re saying.
It’s on the vacuum pump, sucking from the high side right now anyway. And you’re going to leave it on the vacuum pump for another hour. Or until your micron gauge says you get somewhere hopefully below 500 µm or 100 µm.. so that little tiny amount of air that was in the threads will be removed anyway, in the vacuum process after you add the refrigerant oil and refrigerant dye. And normally your refrigerant oil injector would have another low side suction fitting on it. I’m just showing a way where somebody doesn’t have the money to purchase too low side section fittings..
So Air would not be a consideration in the first place I will make another video on that and show again I have made videos on this before .
I will show adding refrigerant oil to a system that you already charged up using a lowside section fitting that is already attached and has no air in it that only has oil or die to inject under pressure.
There’s 100 different ways to do things . This is just one example I’m showing in the video I have made videos of other examples.
That's quite a bit of volume trapped in that 10 inches of black hose, given such a small amount of oil to begin with, is it?
About 5 mL little less. This is very fine thread as you’re turning at the piston moves very little..
When oiling an AC compressor shouldn't you be able to hand turn the shaft while it is level and mounted into the vehicle assuming it's not under any vacuum? Shouldn't it turn without getting stuck and if it does do I need to add more oil?
There are some compresses that will not turn by hand when brand new.
@@coldfinger459sub0 The thing that worries me is that I was able to hand turn it when I held it with the pulley facing down. Soon as I bolted it on to the vehicle it wouldn't turn much anymore. That's why I was wondering if I needed to put more than 2 oz of oil in it. I'm also not sure if I got all the factory oil out. Luckily it's the same kind. I was thinking of just not putting any in the accumulator instead of putting that extra amount in the compressor. I haven't opened accumulator yet. I want to know this compressor is going to turn first.
@@electric_thumbs did you fallow mounting instructions?
Example
Tighten bolt pattern in star in steps of 5 ft lbs. each time until you get to 20 ft lbs. ?
Instructions talk about mounting pad shims or pins ?
On some if a force is applied to one bolt at a time. It can destroy , bind the housing of the compressor on the shaft
There were no such instructions but what I'm noticing is it matters if the compressor is level versus if I'm holding it with a pulley facing the ground. Only in the latter case can I get the shaft to turn. If I have it level it won't turn and if it does at all even a little bit it's not very smooth so I don't push it. I can take it off in tilt The compressor face down and have no problem turning the shaft. It's just not moving when I level it as it is when it's in the vehicle.Would that indicate that it's bound up?
@@electric_thumbs should not make a difference. Just sounds like you get a better grip when is facing down then level.
Put it in advice, but New not crush it by the case .
Putting it down and rotating it and leaving it sit for 30 minutes is something that is written in the instructions to allow the lubricant to get to the front shaft seal before installing .
And this is a problem when somebody buys a product that they don’t know how to correctly, service or install and they don’t research and look up the factory manufacturers instructions sometimes bad things happen
Things like oil balance
Properly, mounting the compressor onto the engine block, the torque procedures and sequence
Whether the compressor had optional, shims or methods of making sure it is level, one mounted onto the engine block
The use of dowel pins, if that is an option for mounting
Sometimes the lubricant does not go into or come out of the suction or discharge line openings some compressor. There’s a separate bolt just for oil. .
I have come across some aftermarket, rebuilt or new compresses that I could not turn by hand, but they were brand new and work perfectly fine afterwards .
Usually having to put a van spanner wrench around a whole circumference of the clutch to spin it to get it break free
Or a clutch tool that was manufactured just for the face of the clutch to spin it .
Q:does the pag that comes in plastic container will be contaminated even when it is sealed?
Yes , eventually over time.
And the vary first time you open them .
This is why you only buy small bottles. Don’t buy the big bottles.
@coldfinger459sub0 do you recommend sheilf time? For plastic ones since i have alot of them or you recommend to get rid off them
Q:what brands you recommend to use?
@@abdullwwful many of the Japanese brands come in metal cans. Most all the factory OEM come in metal cans..
Don’t know shelf life . I know I always given some a few years old.. buy shop. It all turned color, and smells rancid.. something that you’ll never see happen in metal cans.
@coldfinger459sub0 i always check them before i use them they are crystal clear with no bad smell is it ok?
Some do not have a smell. They just absorb moisture without getting that rancid smell.
There was one particular refrigerator oil that was died a dark color blue
When it would get really old in a plastic bottle, it would turn clear.
There was another manufacturer oil that had a moisture chemical indicator inside of it. This was non-Automotive.
Just 10 minutes exposed to the air and it would turn light orange
Hello sir how is your work
I'm a mechanic and I always watch your videos on UA-cam and I have find your videos so useful, can I have your contact so that I can learn more from you
Thomas_lech@hotmail.com
@@coldfinger459sub0 I need your whatsapp number please sir to make things easier
I'm still waiting for your response
UA-cam blocked my email from being sent to you. Let me try this again.
I’m going to send you my name with the_and then my last name
I use Hotmail
Don’t forget the @
thomas_lech
@
hotmail
.com
Maybe You Tube will not pick this up as a email and let you see it
I sent you a message with my email account and I guess You Tube decided to block it. It does that with some links and some emails.
I have this similar refrigerant oil injection and I installed new system of A/C for Corolla 2010 and the system is empty, How many ml of compressor oil should I put in the system
1: is this the first compressor replaced on the car?
2: if it’s a burnt out compressor or those metal flake inside the whole compressor, did you change the condenser and the expansion valve? Did you flush out all the refrigerant hoses and evaporator. ?
3: give me the 17 digit Vin number from the vehicle and I’ll look it up in the computer and I could give you the complete total oil capacity of the system .
This the 17 digit VIN Number (1NXBE40E39Z016515)
And please the measurements should with this refrigerant oil injection
@@SaniYahaya-we7mv what measurements are you talking about?
The measurements are different on every vehicle
1NXBE40E39Z016515