Automotive A/C System Leak Testing with UV Dye: Is it The Most Accurate Method?
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- Опубліковано 6 сер 2017
- Come along as we give you an example why UV dye leak testing is in my opinion the most accurate way to find leaks.
These are the Tools and Tracer Dye I found to work best:
Ultra Bright UV Dye-
amzn.to/2ujj8AY
Dye Injection Gun Kit-
amzn.to/2flR8Gt
Ultra Bright UV Light from Fluke-
amzn.to/2vfkqKA
My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
Website:
www.bsgautomotive.com
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/ bsgautomotive
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Facebook: / fordtechmakuloco
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My company UA-cam Channel- BSG Automotive providing repair advice on makes and models other than Ford: / bsgautomotive1
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. - Авто та транспорт
These are the Tools and Tracer Dye I found to work best:
Ultra Bright UV Dye-
amzn.to/2ujj8AY
Dye Injection Gun Kit-
amzn.to/2flR8Gt
Ultra Bright UV Light from Fluke-
amzn.to/2vfkqKA
Good explanation and demo. Thanks.
I
FordTechMakuloco I have an 03 Navigator and my A/C just stopped working .Its fully charged up but the clutch won’t engage , any ideas for me to check would be appreciated thanks .,,,,Tony
How about oil. How much did leak out? How much would you put in ?
So the system in not running low or dry..
i dont mean to be off topic but does someone know a method to get back into an Instagram account..?
I stupidly lost the account password. I love any help you can give me
Great video! That's the method I've always used, a co-worker of mine was saying the sniffer was way easier. This confirms my thoughts that the dye method is the way to go.
I have used several methods over the years. This one is great provided if it has dye in it or if the customer can wait for the newly added dye to work. I've been given dirty looks by some customers who want their a.c. fixed yesterday. Dye, electronic leak detector, soapy water..all these are a must have in my opinion.
Awesome video. Really helps me figure out why my car needs a "top-off" charge every season to get the compressor to kick on.
I wish you was in California bro I need a good mechanic found your video very enlightening and knowledgeable. Please keep the videos coming
Beautiful example Brian! This is the first time I've ever seen dye injected into a system. You mentioned cycle times and most people don't mention that. Great job and thanks!
Thank you, your tutorial is very useful to increase my knowledge
That UV light is NUTS! Thanks for the info - definitely putting that one on the shopping list!
You'd laugh if you could see what I've been using the past 17 years - a tiny little pen light, that's been dropped, stepped on, run through a couple cooling and alternator fans, etc.. The bulb is about the size of what they used to put in Maglite flashlights in the day. Just one step above useless, lol.
I'd bet that aluminum corrosion got in between the case there, and distorted the seal. Seen that so many times up here in MA in just about every connection. This state dumps salt on the roads like you wouldn't believe in the winter time.
Great vid, as usual. :)
Nice video.
I like the look of the Fluke uv flashlight.
Might have to get myself one of those, currently using the snap on halogen style which uses the vehicle battery.
Thanks for the info. I have a Jeep Cherokee with a very slow leak; this gives me some ideas; I see bubbling at first on the low pressure valve with soapy water but seems to stop.
Another great video, I enjoyed it ! Cheers
Great vid and lesson. Thanks! That's a bad leak. Almost unbelievable the case separation.
+pramponi the case always looks like that on these
Excellent explanation/demonstration video. Thankyou for sharing. 👌🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻. 🖐 🇦🇺
Love your channel keep up the good work
Nice. I wish you can do a repair vid on this. That would be fun to be brought along👍 great vid as always!
+obadiah7771 If they come back for repairs sure thing!
Another amazing video! :D
Once again you have amazed me sir! I didn't expect the die to be so expensive. I can tell its awesome stuff though not to need a UV light with it.
When you evacuate that system to fix the leak, all of your R134 in your machine's storage tank will :
A - have dye in it
B - have no dye in it because it gets separated out with the oil separator?
C be collected with no regard for the small amount of dye in it and go about your fixing AC like a Pro adding a small amount of dye to every system you charge in the future.
D - never see a drop of dye because you quietly and subtly let the temporary charge ooz out into a pan while no one is looking to be discarded in a milk jug later.
😎
Wow!!!! The leak you found was dejavu for me. A friend of mine recharged a 1991 Volvo, the system started working again very cold. I asked him did he check for leaks he didnt respond. I opened the hood to check the lines, looked at the compressor and saw this same leak oil bubbling all over the compressor. I Showed my friend and let's just say he wasn't pleased.
Great job presenting this video FordTech. I use the dye as well but I need to get me one of those fancy injectors. LOL I still have a lot of tools to buy.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge .
Cool video bro...very helpful!!
If you want the best sniffer. H10 is the best. We use dry nitrogen for pressure test with small amount of refrigerant for tracer gas. Could have quickly found this one without dye or 2lbs of gas wasted.
+Joe Shearer yeah I didn't expect the leak to be so big but the gas was not wasted only small bubbles then it gets recovered right away. The recovery machine makes this very easy.
Joe, Agreed! For the vehicles I work on warranty has stated they will no longer pay for a evac and recharge with dye. Even a small leak is found easily with Nitrogen. I'm in South Florida and its funny to see how many systems have new parts hung on for a simple "O" ring or a condenser leak.
+1 on the H10 Pro - thing is absolutely unreal.
I detected a leak on a hose I had custom made for my '93 Volvo 940, since I didn't have the right connections on hand - I figured the system would be completely empty in a few months. Turns out the leak is in the tenths of an ounce per year range - the way it sounded off, I had it in my head that the leak was huge. Not the case at all! Pricey, but well worth it IMO.
Joe Shearer it would be awesome if you would make a video showing nitrogen pressure testing on a car and showing your gauge to line setup as well.
H10 is the next level.
She a leaker💦
Thanks for a detail explanation.
Good job on this one mate.
Great video!
Great video
Can you please do a video on how to replace a 2-4 band on the CD4E transmission?
Awesome Job!!!! Thanks 😁👍👍
Nice job with the video
Great video! Can you please help me? I have a 2000 Chevy Tahoe 5.7L Z71, what are my high and low pressure levels supposed to be on my manifold gauges? I honestly can’t thank you enough! Have a great day!
Great video! I do all my leaks checks the same way with one exception. I use compressed air. I only used compressed air on a car like the escape shown here. It ALREADY has atmospheric pressure inside it. So using air to check for leaks when air is already inside is ok in my opinion. It saves me time and money, and I don't leak as much r134a out into the atmosphere. I would never put air into an ac system but if it's already there it's already there. I use it with soapy water and my ears and I can find leaks. Both methods are valid but that's my opinion.
my same vehicle!
it was my low pressure port schrader valve O-ring....
we put vacuum pump and it held for over an hour so we knew it wasn't anything major.
M
Excellent.
Great job. Really.
Awesome dye.....and much cheaper than my Snap on cartridges!!!
I recommend exactly your procedure. However, one place where dye fails is when the schrader valve is leaking.
How do you clean dye from the low side Schroeder valve to determine if it is leaking? Very thorough series.
Spray dish soap/water and look for bubbles?
Great A/C video!!!! I have an A/C problem on my 2000 Jeep Cherokee 2WD wagon. I have no A/C pressure. When had a shop evac/recharge my A/C system a year ago the high side would "flutter" between 280 and 290 very quickly. I had cool air for about 2 weeks then nothing. Now a year later, I have no pressure in the system. Dye was injected and there seem to be no visible. I sniffed around the evaporator drain tube recently with zero pressure with no positive results and took a scope up as far as I could to inspect the bottom of the evaporator and didn't see anything concerning. Any ideas? Thanks man!
Thanks a lot for a complete and educated training , Are you located at Toronto area to make a diagnosis my car? Thanks and God bless
I have injected dye in my Kenworth and the only leak I have found with it is the low side schraeder valve.
I suspect it is the compressor shaft seal but zero dye is ever seen anywhere on it.
I can even smell freon under the hood with the motor running.
It will cool about one day if I charge it.
This is a perfect example of Vacuum vs Pressure. The seal around the compressor would hold a Vacuum and not leak same as the shaft seal. They will leak under PSI pressure though. The Dye is a must.
Thanks for the video.
When you hook up the machine to the car's ac system, does it do the purge for you automatically? I know it will do it when adding gas; I'm referring to when it is just monitoring the system via the manifold gauges.
Based on your diagnoses, I would assume you're going to replace compressor, reed valve(fixed orifice?), and dryer/accumulator. Right? Does that machine take care of the PAC needed with a compressor change or will you have to still do that manually?
The machine will recover the refrigerant, then at 0 psi go into a vacuum for 10 min which removes all air and moisture from the system. After repairs are completed the system goes into a vacuum for 45 min to entirely purge all air and moisture before charging a sealed system. I think you mean PAG this machine does not inject oil automatically you do it manually.
Hi Ive got a 97 tbird 4.6l 2v. Was wondering why it idles fine but when putting into gear or turning ac or heat on idle drops to where it almost stalls. No codes. Cleaned the iac and new plugs and wires. Took it to the shop an after paying $150 was told they had no clue. Hoping you might have come across this and have acouple of tips that can help me out. Thanks Rob
Let's hear your favorite leak detection method and why!
+Lynx Star Automotive I hear ya I just need that visual.
I start off with Nitrogen at 300PSI, listen for the lea. If I cant find it then I use your method showed here. Man I love working on Air Conditioning.
Thanks loco, I use nitrogen, electronic stethoscope, micron meter, then the typical ac service equipment.
I use only 200PSI, I think its MAX that HELLA (one of the manufagtures of these ac systems) lets you use. + ofcorse soap and water with it.
Nitrogen and soapy water in a spray bottle works if you can see the line. Sometimes thats not easy on this newer stuff.
I also have found leaks with soapy water using system pressure only. Simply spray the lines down repeatedly and watch for leaks.
I once found a slow leak on a toyota truck with soapy water on the AC manifold line shortly after bumping the Nitrogen to 240 PSI.
The leak was coming right through the side of the hose surpisingly and not a fitting or O-ring.
What causes the compressor to cycle?
If the compressor never cycles does that mean its over charged?
Thanks!
When a compressor fails in that matter do you need to start replacing condensers and accumulators etc. or can you get by with just the compressor since it looks to be a seal failure rather than an internal mechanical failure on the compressor releasing shrapnel.
How do you know if the compressor had the right amount of oil? And if there is a leak doesn’t it leak compressor oil also? wouldn’t you need to check and add the right amount of oil or did the dye have oil in it already?
Do you need to recharge the systen with dye in it completly or just until the compressor comes on .
Do you always add one oz of dye before recharge. Or do you have to compensate for dye and use less refrigerant
Have you ever performed an a/c flush on f-150's?
I have had instances where the dye did not show up the leak. I vac the system down and then pressurise with nitrogen. Plain soapy water and nitrogen works every time.
Good Morning,I reaaly needs to know how to remove a precion celenoid of a Ford Taurus 1996 V6 3.0 Thank you.
DIYer here, I hope you can help guide me in the right direction, I've got a situation on my cousin's '94 Accord EX, here it is:
I recently replaced the expansion valve (was clogged) and the receiver dryer. I also flushed out the evap core completely with flush, etc etc. Vacuumed the system for 45 mins, no leaks. Re-charged it to 22.9oz as per OEM specs (I used a scale).
at 80°F and about 40% humidity I got these readings:
-the static pressure is 107psi on the low and 80psi on the high
-at 1500rpm with the clutch disengaged I got 50L and 150H, when clutch engaged I got 45psi L and about 160psi H.
-at 3000rpm with the clutch engaged I got 22psi L and 185psi H.
-Many times when first turning the A/C on, the clutch and fan engage immediately and never turn off, in order to get it to cycle on and off turn the a/c off and then on again, then I see it cycling on and off more normally.
With all these conditions the problem is that the air thru the vents is as follows:
Passenger side vent 60°F, best reading has been 58°, but usually stays between 60° and 62°. All other vents are usually ~10° higher (70°-75°).
Any suggestions what it could be? I've thought maybe the compressor is worn out. I don't think is that I'm low on refrigerant as I've refilled it using a scale and I've checked it at least twice for leaks, the vacuum pressure stays put for over 30 mins at ~29" Hg.
I've heard also that it could be the mode control motor or recycling motor that may not be closing the duct flaps properly, but would that explain why the passenger side cooling only to 60°F? (I will try pinching the heater hoses and see if I experience any changes too).
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, I've been frustrated trying to figure this one out.
Thanks.
Great videos by the way..
Fixed!! saw another video recommending about the mode control motor not working properly yielding a much higher temp out of the center vents. I decided to then check the heater vents and valve. I noticed that the heater valve would not close completely, thus allowing hot coolant to get into the heater core in the cabin. I manually pushed the valve completely closed and voila!! ice cold air on all vents. (The passenger side is still slightly colder than the others but that's expected since it's the closest vent to the blower fan).
I will be adjusting the heater valve cable to ensure it closes the valve completely, if it won't, I'll replace it. Hope this helps someone.
I did not hear you mention adding oil when you charged it. How did you know there was enough oil to not hurt the compressor? How do you know how much to put in considering each part of the unit has a certain amount of oil they hold and it seems that it most likely leaked all of it out? Thanks
+amtpdb1 the recovery machine collects it in a measured container. For the loss I would add up to an ounce of PAG 46.
Can I expect to have problems with the plugs on a 06 4.6L triton engine that has 175000 miles ? What should I plan on paying to have them changed ? Thanks
I'm in the market for a new truck and have been looking @ 2011-2013 fl50s with the 5.0 Im it and I was wondering what your opinion was on them.
+Tom Lang 5.0 is great just get the latest model you can afford as they all have the cylinder sleeve distortion at one time or another.
How often do you see leaks in the cabin? How hard is it to trace it in there?
Hi bro i have a ford edge 2014 SEL... when i turn on the heat the passenger side works will but the driver side give cold air.. if u can help me plz...
Why does my expansion valve releases Freon when is really hot? Is it a bad valve?
All good, except if you don't have an evac machine and you refill to check for leaks then you have to somehow evac again before repairing. It can also be costly.
I have that green die still allover the bottom of my car when the case seals on the compressor leaked! Residual UV die is hard to remove. You can get that light cheaper if you shop around,. I may buy one as my small UV flashlight sucks ! Me either, I would not add air to a empty system. Just quickly charge it and recover it when you find a leak
The advanced auto brake clean I usually buy did not do the trick but rubbing alcohol worked ok The frame on my car, a GM with the wax coating which sucks absorbed it like a sponge lol When the compressor leaks AC oil bad I also learned that it will destroy the belt. :) Really. If you have a bad leaking compressor, especially from the shaft seal toss the belt. I tried cleaning it, it slipped at max engine RPM passing cars at 80+ :D
If my all new system (everything but the lines replaced) will not hold a vacuum, how would be able to find a leak? If there’s no vacuum, wouldn’t it be difficult to charge with refrigerant and dye?
could you please do a video on evaporator core replacement for the 08-11 focus I'm roasting in Texas
i have an 2009 escape hybrid , whit low air condition performance it feel warm, temperature only goes up to 60 degrees, there's no leaks, what could it be??? need help please!!!!
Are we gona see any updates on your ecodiesel?????
+deuceblank I sure hope so
God up north cars that rust is so bad glad we work in Florida northern mechanics are way better than us I was fired one day at a shop up north lol I just couldn't deal with all the rust huge difference
For the home backyard mechanic who doesn't have all of these expensive tools can we just put some dye in the system along with a can or two of refrigerant to get the system running and then check with a uv light or is it necessary to vaccum the system first?
for leak detection that would work perfect. After the repair be sure to have the system vacuumed before recharge.But don't release the refrigerant into the atmosphere. have it properly evacuated before working on it.
@@Az2FL Sounds like a plan, thank you.
What is the machine your using in this video?
The question is not quite on the subject of the film, bcs it is about refrigerant oil amt, but I think this is the right audience for the inquiry. Please can someone solve this arithmetical puzzle from the Shop Manual? It states in the Manual (car is 2001 Saturn SL2):
The Saturn air conditioning system requires 150 ml (5.07 oz) of PAG compressor oil. Service compressors have 65 ml (2.20 oz) of PAG oil installed.
New oil quantities must be added to the system during component replacement and conditions stated as follows:
With no signs of excessive oil leakage, add:
Compressor: Remove, drain, and measure oil. Drain the replacement compressor. Add the same amount of new PAG compressor oil drained from the removed compressor to the replacement compressor.
Evaporator: Add 67.5 ml (2.25 oz) of new PAG compressor oil.
Condenser: Add 22.5 ml (0.75 oz) of new PAG compressor oil.
Receiver-dehydrator: Add 30 ml (1 oz) of new PAG compressor oil.
Open the R-134a source valve(s) and allow 0.50 kg (1 lb) of liquid R-134a to flow into system through low side service fitting.
As soon as 0.50 kg (1 lb) has been added to system, start the engine, set the mode control to vent, the temperature lever to full cold, the blower speed on high, and push the A/C compressor button to the On position (A/C control button light On). Slowly draw in the remainder of the refrigerant charge 0.23 kg (0.5 lb). The total system charge is 0.68 kg (1.5 lbs).
I'm reading all that information in my Shop Manual and don't get this:
If the total amount of refrigerant oil is 5.07oz and 2.25oz goes into compressor, then for Evaporator, Condenser and Receiver Drier is left only 2.82oz (5.07-2.25=2.82oz). But if to add what is recommended for Evaporator, Condenser and Drier it will add up to 4.0oz (2.25+0.75+1.0=4.0oz), with the total in the system 6.25oz (4.0+2.25). How much oil on total is in the system: 5.07oz or 6.25oz? Where I'm wrong? I'm replacing everything besides the Evaporator and Compressor (I'll remove it and flush w/solvent though), those I'll just flush with solvent. No info on Refrigerant Oil under the hood or in owners manual, or in Haynes book. Thank you.
Can u add the dye after the vacuum instead of adding it when it's in a vaccum?
With this injector tip yes as it prevents a backflow of refrigerant.
How about an in-depth session on SEALERS and their affect in the systems. Explain HOW SEALERS function
+William Skelton Never! I would never endorse the use of sealers in a ac system.
If you read my suggestion with an attitude of EDUCATION vice personal prejudice it would help. I spoke of educating users of this CRAP on what it does in a system and how it chemically works. Suggest you regroup and use your resources to EDUCATE AND INFORM, THANKS, JOHN
Sealers when introduced to oxygen solidify. That is how they work. Just imagine that you have installed sealer into a system then it has to be disassembled to replace components. All that sealer will solidify in the lines and hoses and then cause problems from then on. NEVER use sealers !!! You cant clean it out.
I already know that which is why I suggested a educational session on the subject. I just recently had the opportunity to replace a system where the owner had gone through FIVE cans of that crap. It will not fix a HOSE [hp side]. Luckily, it was a RED DOT system in the truck and component accessibility was favorable. I suggested that FordTechMakuloco use his available platform to bring out the straight facts on sealers. Based upon his reaction I doubt he will do the mature thing and expose the in depth details that stuff can cause once moisture gets in the system, missed chance to do good.
At what point do you inject oil for the compressor? Because when you evacuate the system, it removes some oil too. Or just the charge includes the oil too?
You add oil back in right before the charge.
What is the ratio of dye to r134a. My system hold 6 lbs and have 2 systems per vehicle that total 12 lbs . I could not find any specs on Amazons site. Thanks
No ratio, usually it's a 1/2 oz charge for an auto HVAC.
A cassette player, that's a classic car now. ( :
+redroofretriever yes it was a little flash back to the past.
The UV dye is great...unless you're like me and somehow get it everywhere in the engine bay, rendering it useless for finding leaks anywhere other than the evap.
In here, we can use dye, but we cant charge sytem with R134a when we already know that it has a leak. You can get jail time for that...
And Yes if low and high pressure gauge, says 0 pressure then, thats makes it a leak here.
So we use mixture gas that can pressurise the system( i use 200PSI pressure) and you can eather snif it wit tester or just use soap and water.
I personaly like to use, soap and water. Sniffer likes to give fales reading even without leaks.
I allso i have find with soap and water a leaks that take over 6 monts to leak for point of no AC and some of those dont have even dye on it(even when sytem has it in), so no i dont realiy on dye my self.
i like to add extra oil help find evap leak
Hope someone fixed that upside down oil fill cap. Makes the ocd crazy haha
yep good video :D
what if evaporator leaks inside the dash :D
Petar st
Electronic leak detector at the outlet of the evaporator drain hose is needed to identify evaporator leaks since the leakage is not in an open and visible area; he mentioned it as the exception in the video.
I'm having no crank no start problem 2002 Ford Ranger I submitted a service request and have gotten no answers back I live in the Dallas-Fort Worth area the people that came up were out of Plano please call them tell them something
how many ounces in a car length of dye
+doug drefus 1/2 oz
Did I mention it's bright ?
You must have a different dye gun than we have at my job. My coworker decided to put dye in while the system was under vacuum, and it sucked the whole tube of dye in LOL
I install the dye after charging the system.
+Krankie V yeah this one has a special coupler
what if the low side port is on the accumulator, wont the dye just fall into the bottom of the accumulator and not really do anything?
Oh no it is carried through the system by the refrigerant cycle.
I replaced the compressor, dryer and expansion device. I flushed the condensor, evaporator and hoses. I installed new oil in compressor. I vacuumed the system and recharge it. After recharging the low side pressure went to "0" and the high side pressure is around "200". No cold air and compressor is running with clutch engaged. Can you help me?
Good morning, what kind of car is it, if it is an e-valve system did you replaced it? I would think that after all the work you have done that you still had crud which could have stuck it open or it was already defective. Hope it helps.
It is a 2012 Ford fiesta. I don't know what an evalve system is.
I have a 2014 Ford Fusion SE with the 1.6 Ecoboost and a manual transmission. Just recently the acceleration has been kinda choppy in the lower RPM (2000-2500 and under). It's especially noticeable when it's been sitting and had the chance to cool down completely. I noticed earlier that you can faintly hear a bit of a misfire,and if you put your hand on the engine you can feel it running a bit rougher than usual. But there's no engine light on. Do you have any suggestions on things I might need to check? I've already checked the spark plugs and they look fine. It has roughly 48,000 miles.
I'm havin problem with my A/C but only at high speed. At low speed it's kind of cold but when i'm on the highway its like having no a/c. What could be the problem? I drive a 03 escape
Charles Bourassa
check a few things.....
engine coolant
AC compressor clutch spacing
alternator and/or battery
Sounds like might be overcharged to me. Need a set of gauges to see what the pressures are doing
Charging with the car off?
What if you don’t have a vacuum?
I thought vehicles had to be running with ac on to charge? Is that a myth
+Brennan Littlefield no they do not only when owner use a can to "top" off the system since the compressor will create the low side pressure drop enough so the transfer can take place.
Sorry Mak, can you translate that for me i'm confused! Does the dye have to be cleared out of the system before new compressor and Freon is put in? Thanks again!
I prefer nitrogen pressure testing . Dye is good for very slow leak
ok
You don’t make it a habit to brake clean the ports after you add dye? I see those shrader valves leak a lot and if there’s already dye there you may not think to replace them
Nope I don't because I almost never see a Schrader leak except the vehicles from the 90's.
I have a $450 refrigerant detector that works totally dead nuts on but I'm also a commerial Hvac tech
What if the evaporator is leaking?
You will see dye coming out the condensate drip port.
@@FordTechMakuloco thank you
not being smart ass. when you say using compress air to check the system it will be sudden death? isnt it when the system has leak, you already introduce moisture?? and by charging the system with freon dye, yes it is the quickest but also almost like illegal discharge of r134a
ebu touy not of you recover it before making the repair. It's also not required to fix the leak before charging
+ebu touy most systems have some kind of pressure in them preventing the moisture laden air from coming in. Now this one has been open for awhile making it worse. The reason compressed air is so much worse is the moisture in the air condenses with compressed air so many times water droplets are now entering the ac system not just moisture laden air.
I've done several fords with shop air while it's considered bad practice never had any troubles always pulled a vacuum down to 600 microns after to remove as much moisture as possible nitrogen is ideal but also 2 or 300 dollar setup
"not required to fix before charging" i suggest double check your law regarding repair of A/C system :)
ebu touy you can refer to EPA section 609. In MVAC systems you are not required to fix any leaks. I don't recommend it but it's not a requirement
I have a tank of CO2 I use for chasing leaks.
Alien blood
Where is the knock sensor in 2003 Ford Expedition XLT
first video of yours I've completely disagreed with I dispise die, die is a non condensable liquid hard on compressor and does nothing but hurt cooling capacity of a.c. systems either use nitrogen and soapy water or a sniffer with nitrogen and a trace freon charge to locate the general area refridgerants are heavy gasses and won't clear themselves out they'll pool in an area so you have to use a fan or shop air cars a.c. compressors use Polyester oil which is extremely hydroscopic meaning it scavenges moisture from the air but I've used shop air with no bad luck looking for leaks I always pull a deep a vacuum as possible afterwards I have a nitrogen tank now but most people can't afford that expense also I always change the orfice tube I don't bother with the receiver drier because it's just a deccicant bag on Ford's not directly in the flow of refridgerant which has no filtering effect ... that being said I love most of your videos and normally agree with everything you do
Everybody has their ways of diagnosing these systems, so thanks for voicing yours. We can all learn from each others best practices. Any additive to the a/c system is not good for it I understand that but in moderation they are ok and are approved by Ford as the preferred leak detection method until that changes I will be using dye to pinpoint leaks.
FordTechMakuloco This is true....most pag oils come with dye already added...I see no issue with dye in the system!
Most accurate way is a micron gauge
I wish
I like your videos, and you saved my Azz with your 5.4 3v spark plug extractor videos, but this one your wrong IMO! by pulling the system in a vac, your introducing moisture. I am a strong believer that only 2 things go in an operating refrigeration system, oil and refrigerant! Prior to that Nitrogen! I second Joe.