A really big thank you, Helen! I was just about to discard my Turbo Compact 350 and buy a new one. But your beautifully clear video gave me the confidence to take it apart and discover where all the rubber slivers on the lawn were coming from! Just hoping I can put it all back together again when the new drive belt arrives.
Also on the 380. Of the eight torx screws the one at the front cannot be reached with a screwdriver such as that used in the video. I went and bought a ratchet screwdriver and bit set and got the job done. Otherwise very simple video to follow, thank you Helen.
Thanks Helen; looks so easy, but on my machine, the retaining screws (posidriv type) were so rusted up that no amount of WD40, blood sweat and tears prevented me from damaging the heads of the screws so I still can't get them out! I'm sure this must be a common problem, after all it does get covered in wet grass all the time under there. Fine if you've got a nice new machine like in the clip, but then the belt won't be worn out on that!
Hi Roger, It certainly is true the old the machine the more likely you are going to have a problem. Two engineers tips on removing dodgy screws after using Wd or another penetrating fluid. (1) Tap a good fitting screwdriver into the screw with a couple of sharp hits from a hammer as this helps shock the screw and clear light rust to help prevent the screw head from stripping. (2) If you appear to be struggling try tightening the screw to just help break the bond between thread and surround and then unscrew. This helps prevent damage to the screw and give a second opportunity to turn. Hope you got there in the end. :-}
Hi Susan - make sure you're using a Torx driver to remove the screws and not a standard hex (Allen) key as that sort of key isn't designed to remove Torx screws. The Torx set on our website (part no. ES1251179) should contain what you need. Thanks!
Very good, but this guide didn't show me how to remove the mouse that had crawled in, eaten the drive belt, popped its clogs and proceeded to decompose next to the motor.
It looks easy but I also have screws that are stuck fast as none of the many Allen key heads I have seem to grip them. It looks as if I will have to buy a new mower.
Hi there, great video but I must have an older Compact 330 because the ability to slide the motor forward (3:14) isn't there - the screw holes are just holes and don't allow the motor to slide forward. I spent the best part of an hour trying to put the motor back once I got the belt on but gave up. Any ideas?
Hi Riz B, if your motor does not slide then fit the belt over the motor spindle and around a third of the pulley, then rotate the pulley to pull the belt on the rest of the way.
Accidently went over with a broken spanner with the lawnmower. Now it makes a much louder noise that seems to vibrate a lot too. The blade tip is bent upwards on one of the sides. I'm guessing its because of this that its got a change in noise/vibration? Would replacing the blade help? I have a 380 turbo compact so the instructions look the same ( i think)
If they blade has been damaged and bent it will have a big impact on the noise and vibration of the machine so replacing should make a big difference to the performance of the machine.
Please can you remember to say what SIZE torx screwdriver you need. They are not cheap (if you buy quality idividual ones, not the cheapo sets that break).
Hi ForestCat_Peter thanks for your comments. eSpares sells a Torx kit that is manufactured from Chrome Vanadium Steel which is suitable for heavy-duty use and contains nine of the most common sizes. Please click on the link below: www.espares.co.uk/product/es1251179/9-piece-torx-head-screwdriver-set
@0:37 she moves the blade/impellar back and forth.MY impellar has compleatly seized..it just will NOT budge a millimetre.I took it off to see if there was any obstruction underneath but all was clear.The impellar wont move because the white plastic "HUB?" (exposed here from 2:10)which rotates the impellar is SEIZED, this seems to be the seat of the problem. The belt LOOKS to be in one piece and is fully taught. WHY won't the "hub" rotate????. WHY is it TOTALLY unmoveable, even by hand, let alone the motor?.
Looking at the image of the cover at: www.espares.co.uk/product/es954894/lawnmower-upper-cowl there appears to be only one 'screw hole' so once this is removed the cover should just hing off.
If you carefully look at the second image on the part: www.espares.co.uk/product/es1668863/motor-cover you can see on the left side of the cover a 'hole' and on the right side of the hole a plastic 'pillar'. This has a hooked end that pushes through the base, to release use a flat blade screwdriver through the slot in the 'nose' of the base and release the hooked edge.
Removal of drive assembly 8 bolts - mine has 7 bolts. Your video only shows 7 too. Oops!Your demo machine is obviously new unlike mine. On mine, the three bolts at the motor end are not pan heads with washers like yours but badly corroded inaccessible hardened steel countersunk ones. After 3 hours trying to remove them, finally by unsuccessfully trying to drill them out, I am no further forward and I have a flattened end drill bit. I now need to buy a new mower. Somehow I don't think it will be a flymo!
Sorry to hear your struggles Roy. Rusted screws can be difficult to remove, in future try spraying a releasing and penetrating oil on first then try tightening a little to break the grip between screw head and fitting before trying to undo. Hope you have better luck next time.
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A really big thank you, Helen! I was just about to discard my Turbo Compact 350 and buy a new one. But your beautifully clear video gave me the confidence to take it apart and discover where all the rubber slivers on the lawn were coming from! Just hoping I can put it all back together again when the new drive belt arrives.
Timotheos Petros in
Also on the 380. Of the eight torx screws the one at the front cannot be reached with a screwdriver such as that used in the video. I went and bought a ratchet screwdriver and bit set and got the job done. Otherwise very simple video to follow, thank you Helen.
Thanks Helen; looks so easy, but on my machine, the retaining screws (posidriv type) were so rusted up that no amount of WD40, blood sweat and tears prevented me from damaging the heads of the screws so I still can't get them out! I'm sure this must be a common problem, after all it does get covered in wet grass all the time under there. Fine if you've got a nice new machine like in the clip, but then the belt won't be worn out on that!
Hi Roger, It certainly is true the old the machine the more likely you are going to have a problem. Two engineers tips on removing dodgy screws after using Wd or another penetrating fluid. (1) Tap a good fitting screwdriver into the screw with a couple of sharp hits from a hammer as this helps shock the screw and clear light rust to help prevent the screw head from stripping.
(2) If you appear to be struggling try tightening the screw to just help break the bond between thread and surround and then unscrew. This helps prevent damage to the screw and give a second opportunity to turn.
Hope you got there in the end. :-}
Worked on my ancient 350.. Same basic steps.
Excellent. Just one note that on my 330 there is an additional screw at the front which isnt on this video.
Thanks for the video, handy info. Made even better by the presenter ;X
You're welcome!
Thanks.
Hi Susan - make sure you're using a Torx driver to remove the screws and not a standard hex (Allen) key as that sort of key isn't designed to remove Torx screws. The Torx set on our website (part no. ES1251179) should contain what you need. Thanks!
pure life saver...mucho gracias!!
Impossible on my old one as all the screws are corroded
Very welcome @anothergazman
Thankyou VeryMuch your a Star!
Very good, but this guide didn't show me how to remove the mouse that had crawled in, eaten the drive belt, popped its clogs and proceeded to decompose next to the motor.
It looks easy but I also have screws that are stuck fast as none of the many Allen key heads I have seem to grip them. It looks as if I will have to buy a new mower.
thanks. that helped a lot.
Hi there, great video but I must have an older Compact 330 because the ability to slide the motor forward (3:14) isn't there - the screw holes are just holes and don't allow the motor to slide forward. I spent the best part of an hour trying to put the motor back once I got the belt on but gave up. Any ideas?
Hi Riz B, if your motor does not slide then fit the belt over the motor spindle and around a third of the pulley, then rotate the pulley to pull the belt on the rest of the way.
Accidently went over with a broken spanner with the lawnmower. Now it makes a much louder noise that seems to vibrate a lot too. The blade tip is bent upwards on one of the sides. I'm guessing its because of this that its got a change in noise/vibration? Would replacing the blade help? I have a 380 turbo compact so the instructions look the same ( i think)
If they blade has been damaged and bent it will have a big impact on the noise and vibration of the machine so replacing should make a big difference to the performance of the machine.
Thanks for confirming my suspicion! Will get on replacing it!
Please can you remember to say what SIZE torx screwdriver you need. They are not cheap (if you buy quality idividual ones, not the cheapo sets that break).
Hi ForestCat_Peter thanks for your comments. eSpares sells a Torx kit that is manufactured from Chrome Vanadium Steel which is suitable for heavy-duty use and contains nine of the most common sizes. Please click on the link below: www.espares.co.uk/product/es1251179/9-piece-torx-head-screwdriver-set
@0:37 she moves the blade/impellar back and forth.MY impellar has compleatly seized..it just will NOT budge a millimetre.I took it off to see if there was any obstruction underneath but all was clear.The impellar wont move because the white plastic "HUB?" (exposed here from 2:10)which rotates the impellar is SEIZED, this seems to be the seat of the problem. The belt LOOKS to be in one piece and is fully taught. WHY won't the "hub" rotate????. WHY is it TOTALLY unmoveable, even by hand, let alone the motor?.
@sparkymart09 it's an ac motor so it doesn't matter at all
Very nice, but we have a 350 turbo lite, and I can't get the cover off!!!
Looking at the image of the cover at: www.espares.co.uk/product/es954894/lawnmower-upper-cowl
there appears to be only one 'screw hole' so once this is removed the cover should just hing off.
Thanks for responding, but sorry, not that easy cover. I meant the black one underneath that hides motor and gear.
albertvanc ... did you get an answer? Are you able to advise how you eventually got the motor cover off? Thanks ... Kliffacing
As it's already 2 months ago now, I don't remember the detail, but it was very simple to see a big screw appear after I cleaned the moulded grass off.
Many Thanks albertvanv I will investigate further!
Can anyone confirm how to get the cover off a 350 Glider which appears to be a lot more involved than the 'easy to remove' cover in this 330 video?
If you carefully look at the second image on the part: www.espares.co.uk/product/es1668863/motor-cover you can see on the left side of the cover a 'hole' and on the right side of the hole a plastic 'pillar'. This has a hooked end that pushes through the base, to release use a flat blade screwdriver through the slot in the 'nose' of the base and release the hooked edge.
Thank you for responding. However I can only see the outside of the cover and no access point for use of a flat head screwdriver?
The slot to release the hook is accessed from underneath by the blade at the front. You may not see it if there is grass built up.
On the G350 Glider is that the slot located under the roller?
Sorry we have not got a 350 to check but if that is the only slot try it.
@sparkymart09 Good advice @sparkymart09
Hubby changed the belt and something wrong again ----sounds like the same thing
Det ser ikk proff ud, med den skrue maskine
Removal of drive assembly 8 bolts - mine has 7 bolts. Your video only shows 7 too. Oops!Your demo machine is obviously new unlike mine. On mine, the three bolts at the motor end are not pan heads with washers like yours but badly corroded inaccessible hardened steel countersunk ones. After 3 hours trying to remove them, finally by unsuccessfully trying to drill them out, I am no further forward and I have a flattened end drill bit. I now need to buy a new mower. Somehow I don't think it will be a flymo!
Sorry to hear your struggles Roy. Rusted screws can be difficult to remove, in future try spraying a releasing and penetrating oil on first then try tightening a little to break the grip between screw head and fitting before trying to undo. Hope you have better luck next time.
Same problem here. 3 of the torx screws totally seized.
Easy Peasy!!! didnt need torque either, just plain possy drive :-)
That's not easy as I thought
Alot going on there lol
It is not to difficult Amer, as long as you follow the video it should only take about 20 minutes.