SCX24 - V1 vs V2 transmitter and receiver/ esc electronics comparison.
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- Опубліковано 27 кві 2022
- We compare the V1 vs V2 transmitter and receiver/ esc electronics. The good, the bad and the ugly!
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SCX24 Bronco: www.horizonhobby.com/product/...
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Awesome info helped me a lot being new to the hobby
And I’m an old guy
Many thanks
Dennis in Tennessee
Thanks a ton for watching.
The CL-L2 and CL-R2 is blinkers CL=left, CR=right. LED's will blink with the direction you are turning the vehicle/servo
Funny enough, we figured that out the day after we uploaded this video. Lol. Thanks a ton for the info though, it helps other community members!
I just scored 2 of these on market place, the gray C-10 and the white jeep Cherokee, both have the original AE-6 plus 2 extra AE-6 receivers, bead lock wheels and a bunch of batteries for 50!!! Kid played with them twice and they sat until dad sold them!! And dad had no idea what he had 🤣🤣🤣
Niceee!
You can also click the bind button 2 times the g led will blink 2 times letting you adjust endpoints double click it again it will blink 3 time for channel 3 endpoints then bind 2 more time the led will blink 4 times for channel 4 endpoints you can also trim the channels the same way
Yep. I have a whole video that covers this but it’s also go to mention here. Thanks!!
It's cool it runs lights, but with everything I've heard I'm glad I have version 1, even tho I had to build my own light control.
It’s better for stock, but not as much when you start upgrading.
The two channels cl-r3 and cl-l2 are signal lights. Just flip wire upside down. They are affected with channel 4 button though
We will have to try that out.
i've used both, and each has pros and cons. like you said, if they would have just left ch2 on the v2 electronics, it would have basically been perfect...
yep.. i donno why they removed it. It would be cool to see if someone could figure out which circuit is needed to solder to, to use as channel 2. That way when people fry the esc, they can solder a new external ESC to the stock board and still use it.
Being able to plug in a Lizard and go with a brushless motor for really slow creep is kinda why I'm leaning to the Deadbolt. But if one is more interested in 4WS, that new channel 3 location is much better.
maybe if they come out with a new Deadbolt it'll have both! Dare to dream!
We run 4ws with the v1 and its not too bad.
I got that whole lizard combo no realizing its didn’t work with hrz00015
@@MilesBeatsLive a main hobbies has the avatar tax/rx combo for 149.99. I got it for my furitek Komodo bronco build with no cutting. Need a couple parts to make it work but I got it with no plate mods. You can find a used car with v1 electronics on it for cheap take those out and put the v2 esc in the donor. I scored a keep with v1 electronics for $45 off eBay. Putting my v2 and hot racing motor and stock trans in it and got another working one for cheap.
I have a C10 that I put 4ws on and I soldered a trigger from my deadbolts controller, deadbolt went down a river, to the switch contacts in the c10 controller and it worked awesome, but I havent figured out a good solid location for the second trigger and it is a bit difficult to run both triggers and the wheel lol so I just use the switch
Finally a remote video! which one controls the slow and fast speed?
For which transmitter?
@@TheShopMiniRC the v2, ty sir
@@Rustykiller17 check out this video:
ua-cam.com/video/fhb5gr_iWd4/v-deo.html
This show all you wanna know about the V2
I dont plan on brushless, and i like how smoother and less noise the V2 is so i placed a bid on ebay for a V2 remote and tx/rx for $35, i hope i win it.
The v2 is MUCH smoother. Good luck with your bid!
@@TheShopMiniRC I did not win, so i just got the lizard pro. I watched on another video, the v2 automatically brakes when you let go of throttle, it stops immediately. V1 it still rolls forwards when you let go.
@@toycoma98 sorry you didnt win. You will be super happy with the Pro though!! We just did a video about it here: ua-cam.com/video/qUj9S0p7Z8o/v-deo.html
Yea I meant remote and ok thanks I have a gladiator that when I turn it on it just goes full throttle forward and I tried replacing the esc and still did it so I’m thinking the remote maybe
Start with trying to adjust the Throttle Trim. Turn it down. If they doesn’t work, I’d pull the batteries from the remote and truck, then Put new ones in and rebind it. That might help.
I got a used v2 transmitter and got a new v2 esc, how do i use the ch3 for led? do i plug it in the middle and top pin of ch3 or middle and bottom pin? How do i make it off-on-strobe?
Pretty sure you have to use the “head” slot.
So why does the stock motor burn out so quick on both versions? Just got a gladiator and it seemed to last a day just like the C10 did?
Very odd. I’ve been running 4 of my rigs with stock motors and never had an issue other than being under powered. I have a deadbolt, c10, gladdy and Bronco all with stock. You need to make sure you don’t have binding or overtightened wheel nuts. Also, when in a crevasse or your tire is stuck, don’t just push it.
Do you know if you can bind the old receiver to the the esc
If you mean bind the old transmitter (remote) to the new esc/receiver combo, no. The v1 and v2 are different protocols. :(
I just bought a used SCX24 JLU V2 and it came with the front bumper off and a set of LED lights (front and rear lights) plugged into the CH3 and they stay on all the time.
Now I wanted to install the front bumper again and be able to control the aftermarket lights with the CH3 switch on the transmitter (they're blinding if they hit you the right way 😅).
The problem I have is that when I plug them on the HEAD (black wire on top) just the rear lights work properly, the front ones barely light up. If I put the black wire at the bottom they light up all the time and I can't control them at all.
Any tips on how to solve this?
Nice video by thw way! 👍
Your aftermarket leds might require a different voltage? Seems odd they would act different than stock when plugged in the same.
@@TheShopMiniRC It might be the case. I took a closer look and they're bigger than the stock ones.
What I find strange is that when plugged to CH3 they stay all the time on and they work all 4 just fine. Shouldn't all the channels have the same power?
Any suggestions on a set of 4 LEDs that might work on the HEAD channel?
Thanks for your response. 👍
@@makpsv unfortunately I dont really know because I dont really do a ton of LED stuff. I would suggest looking at LED kits made specifically for the SCX24
@@TheShopMiniRC No problem. Thanks for your help. 👍
I wish i had the v2 for the better chn 3 location
Yeah, it the v2 can’t go brushless.
Why?
Because the new system is all you really need. I just bought a new unit for use in my deadbolt because the old units esc went out. There’s barely room for stock electronics, let alone extra stuff.
Not if you want to run a brushless setup on the stock remote. Check out some of our other videos to see how tight some electronics can be packed into these things. The v2 is great for brushed, but that’s about it.
Those are for blinkers
thanks!
Hello.. good information on your channel. Quick question though, can I bind a version 1esc with Version remote controller? I am have issues with furitek komodo working with version 2 esc, so I bought a version 1 esc, but I am unable to bind it with the remote controller (which I think is version 2) Thank you for your help...
No, unfortunately you can’t. V1 and v2 are totally different protocols.
@@TheShopMiniRC thank you for taking time and answer my question. I guess i’m ordering v1 controller then.
@@alanmtb9927 if you ask around in the Facebook groups, you can likely find a used one VERY CHEAP. (Like just pay shipping cheap)
@@TheShopMiniRC yup, I’ll ask around.
Thank you and more power to your channel!
@@alanmtb9927 thanks a ton for watching. I hope i earned your sub!
Is there no high speed mode on the newer transmitter? I have the bronco and can’t seem to find it
You can try turning up the dual rate on the channel 2. remember these trucks are crawlers and are NOT fast.
@@TheShopMiniRC I misunderstood the entire “dual trim” subject. I figured it out eventually, only for my battery to explode while charging a few hours later 🤣
@@zacheryskinner7186 ohhh nooo. I hope nothing was damaged with your exploding battery. I am glad you got it all figured out.
it seems when you turn the low speed mode in v1 esc crawls better than v2 and with high speed has more punch , but it seems with the binding button you can fix the motor dual rate to go slower or faster
Any suggestions for a new esc that works with the v2 controller that dosnt need me to make it brushless or buy a new controller? My esc went out while back and the esc have been on backorder for over 3 months now and I havnt been able to use my scx24. Anything helps thanks
The v2 receiver can not be used as receiver only. This mean, if you want a new esc, you will also need a new receiver (and if you don’t have a transmitter, that too)
That is one of the things I mention in the video… the 1 big downside of the v2. You can’t use it with ANY external esc. :(
@@TheShopMiniRC is there any good cheap esc and receiver u could recommend to run on a scx24 that's still brushed
@@wirelessgnat4208 the stock v2 if you can get one (which youve said you cant) and then maybe a stock v1?
It depends on the remote you want to use.
What remote options do you have(if any) or what remote are you wanting to look at buying?
@@TheShopMiniRC I would like to still be able to use the v2 controller but am not opposed to getting a new one but I don't wanna have to spend more on the controller and esc then I spent on the truck so anything under like 150 dollars or maybe a bit more if it's gonna be worth it. Iv just done to much to send it back practically fully built with diffrent chassis and servo motor ect just havnt gone as far as making it brushless and moving to a furitek or lizard pro and new receiver. I would like to be able to get somthing that can plug right in if it not a 2in1 esc that is fine as long as it's not to spendy and has same plugs as stock esc
I have a concern regarding version 1, version 2 and version 3, which was the last one they released, each of them has different electronics. Version 1 The touch is not as progressive but the receiver compensates for it, especially by having a second channel where without need to change control or other components can be converted to a brushless motor, easily and economically, then version two brings different electronics where the feel is better compared to accelerating the vehicle is more progressive but lacks channel 2 if you want to modify The electronics require changing all the components which greatly limits it. The control is digital, particularly I don't know how accurate or convenient it is. My main question is related to the latest version 3, which again changes the electronics to a spectrum and changes the control. Can you please tell me if this electronic also has channel 2 as well as version 1? Can this version number 3 also install a brushless motor on channel 2 without having to change the remote control and other electronic electronics? I am undecided between version 1 and version number 3, the last one that Axial released in its SCX 24 versions. Thank you very much for your suggestions.
Version 3 spectrum electronics have a channel 2 for an external esc just like the v1. ;)
Will the new V2 ESC work with a brushless motor or only brushed?
Only brushed.
@@TheShopMiniRC Then that is a weird move on their part. Maybe they're coming out with an 'upgrade' brushless ESC combo of their own and are trying to keep customers in their brand ecosystem. Who knows. I still think I'll lean to the Deadbolt.
Is the v1 transmitter better than v2 can u bind v1 to v2 both transmitters
you can not bind them to each other. Also, V1 is better in the sense that you can plug and play a brushless ESC... but V2 is better if you are sticking with the brushed 2-1 combo esc. Much better slow crawl, but it can NOT plug a brushless or external ESC into it, you will have to replace the entire system to go brushless.
Anyway to get a v1 radio to bind with a v2 esc I bought the wrong esc?
nope :(
@@TheShopMiniRC grrrrr lol
@@rcjoe406 sorry my dude.
@@TheShopMiniRC ya sucks got a return approval and a shipping label on ebay so all good gonna save up for a furitek combo..stole the v1 esc out of my jlu
Can I use the old transmitter with the new ESC?
Nope.
@@TheShopMiniRC Sure?😬 I mean there‘s a bind button and I ordered the new ESC now…
@@leotruuut245 you can not bind the old v1 axial remote with the new blue axial v2 receiver / esc.
Sorry.
@@TheShopMiniRC Oh ok, my C10 is only twitching forwards so it‘s probably the ESC that broke down. Do you have any suggestions on how to get it working? Should I just buy the V2 ESC and the V2 transmitter (if I can find it in Germany…)?
@@leotruuut245 if you can find a v1 receiver that would be good.
You can also go brushless with something like a furitek setup. A lot of times, even if the v1 esc fried, you can still use it as a receiver and plug a brushless esc into it.
When you turn wheel left right ..
gotcha
Why v1 truck faster than v2 truck all stock. V1 has a voltage 50 75 100 percent to slow it down.
Odd. Donno.
Here's a link on how to adjust endpoints on servos connected to channel 3 and 4. ua-cam.com/video/fhb5gr_iWd4/v-deo.html
Thanks!!!
How is it that i got my deadbolt 4 days ago, and i have the Ver. 1 controller. Did I get ripped the hell off?! WTF??
Only the newer JLUs, Gladdy and Bronco come with the v2
No you are better off of with the AE-6 👍
@@jordancoleman2402 correct. The v1 can run brushless with a new esc. V2 can’t.
@@TheShopMiniRC I have a bunch of helicopter electronics that I've saved over the years and it looks like the motor for my T-Rex 150 will fit really well with a little sanding to the trans case and one new motor mount hole drilled.